Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions

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© Copyrighted Material © Copyrighted Material www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com www.ashgate.com Edible identities: Food as Cultural Heritage Edited by ronda l. brulottE University of New Mexico, USA MiCHaEl a. di gioVinE West Chester University, USA

Transcript of Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions

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Edible identities: Food as Cultural Heritage

Edited by

ronda l. brulottEUniversity of New Mexico, USA

MiCHaEl a. di gioVinEWest Chester University, USA

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Printed in the united Kingdom by Henry ling limited, at the dorset Press, dorchester, dt1 1Hd

© ronda l. brulotte and Michael a. di giovine 2014

all rights reserved. no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the publisher.

ronda l. brulotte and Michael a. di giovine have asserted their right under the Copyright, 'HVLJQV�DQG�3DWHQWV�$FW��������WR�EH�LGHQWL¿HG�DV�WKH�HGLWRUV�RI�WKLV�ZRUN�

Published by ashgate Publishing limited ashgate Publishing CompanyWey Court East 110 Cherry streetunion road suite 3-1Farnham burlington, Vt 05401-3818surrey, gu9 7Pt usaEngland

www.ashgate.com

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Dataa catalogue record for this book is available from the british library.

The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:brulotte, ronda l. Edible identities : food as cultural heritage / by ronda l. brulotte and Michael a. di giovine. pages cm. -- (Heritage, culture and identity) includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978-1-4094-4263-9 (hardback) -- isbn 978-1-4094-4264-6 (ebook) -- isbn 978-1-4094-8479-0 (epub) 1. Food habits. i. di giovine, Michael a. ii. title. gt2850.b78 2014 394.1’2--dc23

2014012565

isbn 9781409442639 (hbk)isbn 9781409442646 (ebk – PdF)isbn 9781409484790 (ebk – ePub)

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Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions

Carole Counihan

This chapter explores the role of cultural heritage in food activism in Italy through an ethnographic case study from the city of Cagliari on the island of Sardinia. It examines whether recourse to culinary cultural heritage can advance the overriding goal of food activism: the promotion of food democracy. I discuss the constantly HYROYLQJ�GH¿QLWLRQ�RI�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH�LQ�IRRG�DFWLYLVP��LWV�SRWHQWLDO�WR�SURPRWH�HFRQRPLF�MXVWLFH�DQG�FXOWXUDO�VXUYLYDO��DQG�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH�DV�D�IRUFH�RI�LQFOXVLRQ�and exclusion.

Cagliari is the capital of the island region of Sardinia and the place where ,� GLG� P\� ¿UVW� DQWKURSRORJLFDO� ¿HOGZRUN� LQ� ������ ,� KDYH� FRQWLQXHG� GRLQJ�HWKQRJUDSKLF� ¿HOGZRUN� LQ� ,WDO\� VLQFH� WKHQ� ZLWK� SURMHFWV� LQ� ����±��� LQ� %RVD��6DUGLQLD���LQ�����±���DQG������LQ�)ORUHQFH��DQG�DOO�RYHU�,WDO\�LQ������VWXG\LQJ�Slow Food. I was a visiting professor at the University of Cagliari from April–-XQH��������DQG�,�VWXGLHG�&DJOLDUL¶V�DOWHUQDWLYH�IRRG�VFHQH�E\�FRQGXFWLQJ�DSSUR[LPDWHO\����LQWHUYLHZV�DQG�REVHUYDWLRQV��LQFOXGLQJ����UHFRUGHG�LQWHUYLHZV��ZLWK� YDULRXV� SDUWLFLSDQWV��:LWK� �������� UHVLGHQWV� LQ� WKH� FLW\� DQG� �������� LQ�WKH�VXUURXQGLQJ�PHWURSROLWDQ�DUHD��&DJOLDUL�ERDVWV�D� WKLUG�RI� WKH� LVODQG¶V� WRWDO�SRSXODWLRQ�RI�����������DQG�LV�LWV�PDMRU�SRUW�1�,W�LV�DOVR�WKH�UHJLRQ¶V�NH\�FXOWXUDO��SROLWLFDO��FRPPHUFLDO��WUDQVSRUWDWLRQ��DQG�WRXULVW�KXE��,W�LV�D�JRRG�SODFH�WR�VWXG\�WKH� FRQWHPSRUDU\� ,WDOLDQ� DOWHUQDWLYH� IRRG� PRYHPHQW� EHFDXVH� RI� 6DUGLQLD¶V�VWURQJ� DJUR�SDVWRUDO� URRWV�� LWV� UDSLGO\� FKDQJLQJ� IRRGZD\V�� LWV� KLJK� GHQVLW\� RI�VXSHUPDUNHWV� DQG� GLVFRXQW� IRRG� VWRUHV�� and its burgeoning alternative food VFHQH��,�ZDV�DEOH�WR�VWXG\�WZR�UHFHQWO\�VWDUWHG�IDUPHUV�PDUNHWV��VHYHUDO�RUJDQLF�SURGXFHUV�DQG�GLVWULEXWRUV��WKH�DFWLYH�6ORZ�)RRG�FKDSWHU��D�YHJHWDULDQ�UHVWDXUDQW��IDUP�WR�VFKRRO�DOOLDQFHV��DQG�WKH�*$6��*UXSSR�GL�$FTXLVWR�6ROLGDOH��&DJOLDUL�&LUFROR�$SHUWR��WKH�2SHQ�&LUFOH�6ROLGDULW\�%X\LQJ�*URXS�

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VHHNLQJ�JUHDWHU� MXVWLFH�DQG�TXDOLW\�LQ�WKH�IRRG�V\VWHP��&RQVXPHUV�MRLQ�WRJHWKHU�to buy directly from local producers. Members pay a small annual fee and can PDNH�D�ZHHNO\�RUGHU�RI�DOO�WKH�SURGXFWV�WKH�*$6�RIIHUV��ZKLFK�SURGXFHUV�EULQJ�WR�D�FHQWUDO�ORFDWLRQ�IRU�*$6�PHPEHUV�WR�SLFN�XS��7KLV�FKDSWHU�XVHV�LQWHUYLHZV�and observations with the GAS Cagliari president and founding member Lucio %UXJKLWWD�DQG�RWKHU�IRRG�DFWLYLVWV�WR�H[SORUH�WKH�FRQQHFWLRQV�EHWZHHQ�WKHLU�DFWLYLVW�efforts and recourse to concepts of cultural heritage.

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Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage���

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Slow Food Cagliari obtained presidium Sardo-Modicana beef from butcher Vivarellli for its twentieth anniversary dinner held beneath the stars in the Monte &ODUR�3DUN�LQ�&DJOLDUL�RQ�-XQH�����������$IWHU�D�¿UVW�FRXUVH�RI�ciccioneddos alla campidanese��VPDOO�JQRFFKL�VKDSHG�VHPROLQD�SDVWD�VHUYHG�ZLWK�PHDW�VDXFH���WKHUH�were three beef dishes all from the bue rosso: bombas� �PHDWEDOOV��� spezzatino �EHHI�VWHZ���DQG�spezzatino nero��EODFN�EHHI�VWHZ��PDGH�ZLWK�*XLQQHVV�VWRXW��7KH�LGHD�ZDV�� DV�9LYDUHOOL� KDG� VDLG� DW� D� V\PSRVLXP� HDUOLHU� WKDW� GD\�� WR� UHYHUVH� WKH�VLWXDWLRQ�RI�WRGD\�ZKHUH�³6DUGLQLDQV�WKHPVHOYHV�QR�ORQJHU�NQRZ�WKH�SURGXFWV�RI�their own land—i prodotti della propria terra�´�7UDGLWLRQDOO\��PHDW�KDV�PDUNHG�a feast and the Slow Food event continued that tradition in a new form while supporting Sardinian cattle producers. Culinary heritage is constantly evolving WKURXJK� HGXFDWLRQ� DQG� UHQHZHG� SUDFWLFHV�� EXW� LW� PDLQWDLQV� D� FRQVLVWHQW� IRFXV�on local products developed in the territory over time associated with regional communities and identities.

$QRWKHU�H[DPSOH�RI�UHFRXUVH�WR�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH�ZDV�6ORZ�)RRG�&DJOLDUL¶V�HVWDEOLVKPHQW� LQ� -XQH������RI�D�³comunità del cibo” for the caper to support UHYLYDO� RI� LWV� SURGXFWLRQ�� ZKLFK� IRU� ���� \HDUV� KDG� EHHQ� D�PDMRU� DJULFXOWXUDO�LQGXVWU\� LQ� 6HODUJLXV�� ¿YH� NLORPHWHUV� IURP� &DJOLDUL�� DQG� KDG� DOPRVW� EHFRPH�extinct due to competition from capers cheaply produced in North Africa �*XLJRQL��������:LGHVSUHDG�LQ�WKH�FLUFXP�0HGLWHUUDQHDQ��FDSHUV�DUH�WKH�EXGV�RI�WKH�FDSHU�EXVK�ZKLFK�DUH�XVXDOO\�SLFNOHG�LQ�EULQH�RU�YLQHJDU��2Q�-XQH�����������6ORZ� )RRG� &DJOLDUL� KHOG� WKH� ¿UVW� DQQLYHUVDU\� FHOHEUDWLRQ� RI� WKH� FDSHU� IRRG�community. The event included several speeches about the history and current VWDWXV�RI�ORFDO�FDSHU�SURGXFWLRQ��D�YLVLW�WR�D�QHDUE\�¿HOG�ZKHUH�FDSHU�SODQWV�ZHUH�growing; and a guided caper tasting among guests seated at convivial tables ZLWK�SOHQW\�RI�ZLQH�WR�ZDVK�GRZQ�WKH�VDOW\��YLQHJDU\�FDSHUV��3URPRWLRQ�RI�WKH�6HODUJLXV�FDSHUV�HPSKDVL]HG�WKHLU�ORQJ�KLVWRU\�LQ�WKH�DUHD��WKHLU�VXSHULRU�WDVWH��WKHLU�HFRQRPLF�LPSRUWDQFH��DQG�WKHLU�HPEHGGHGQHVV�LQ�ORFDO�ODQG��FXLVLQH��DQG�culture. The revival of caper production contributed to cultural and plant survival. ,WV�FRQWULEXWLRQ� WR� IRRG�GHPRFUDF\�PD\�EH�PRUH�GLI¿FXOW� WR�DI¿UP�EHFDXVH� LW�DLPHG�WR�SURYLGH�D�MXVW�LQFRPH�IRU�SURGXFHUV��EXW�WKDW�PHDQW�VHOOLQJ�WKH�FDSHUV�DW� ��� HXURV� SHU� NLORJUDP� DQG� WZLFH� WKDW� IRU� VPDOOHU� TXDQWLWLHV²FRQVLGHUDEO\�more expensive than cheap imports. This case illustrates an ongoing tension EHWZHHQ�HFRQRPLF�MXVWLFH�DQG�UHFRXUVH�WR�FXOLQDU\�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH��ZKLFK�PD\�bring a living wage for producers but at prices too high for many consumers.

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Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions ���

FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH��'RQDGLR��������6LPLODUO\�� LQ������� WKH�7XVFDQ�EHDFK� WRZQ�RI�)RUWH�GL�0DUPL�VDLG�³QR� WR�$PHULFDQ�IDVW� IRRG��QR� WR�NHEDEV�DQG�VXVKL�EDUV� LQ�WKH�KLVWRULF�FHQWHU�RU�EHDFKIURQW�´�7KH�³genius loci´�GHFUHH�ZDV�QRW�[HQRSKRELD��VDLG� WKH� PD\RU�� EXW� ³D� QHFHVVDU\� UHJXODWLRQ� WR� GHIHQG� RXU� FXOWXUDO� LGHQWLW\´��0RQWDQDUL�����D��P\�WUDQVODWLRQ���+RVWLOLW\�WRZDUGV�LPPLJUDQWV�DERXQGV�LQ�,WDO\�DV�VRFLDO�VFLHQWLVWV�KDYH�GRFXPHQWHG��'DO\�������5DQGDOO�������5LFFLR��������DQG�DV�,�ZDV�ZULWLQJ�WKLV�FKDSWHU�LQ�'HFHPEHU�������DQ�,WDOLDQ�ZLWK�WLHV�WR�WKH�IDU�ULJKW�murdered two Senegalese immigrants and wounded several others at an open air PDUNHW�LQ�)ORUHQFH��WKH�ORFDO�LPDP�FDOOHG�WKLV�DFW�³IUXLW�RI�WHQ�\HDUV�RI�SROLWLFV�RI�KDWH�DJDLQVW� LPPLJUDQWV´� �0RQWDQDUL�����E��� ,W� LV� LQWHUHVWLQJ� WR�QRWH� WKDW� WKHVH�WKUHH�LQFLGHQWV�DOO�RFFXUUHG�LQ�WRXULVW�KRWVSRWV�ZKLFK�GHSHQG�RQ�PDUNHWLQJ�WKHLU�FXOWXUDO�LGHQWLW\��DXWKHQWLFLW\��DQG�KHULWDJH�WR�RXWVLGHUV��SHUKDSV�H[SODLQLQJ�WKHLU�]HDORXV�FXOLQDU\�SURWHFWLRQLVP�

$Q�HPSKDVLV�RQ�ORFDO�IRRGV�FDQ�LVRODWH��UHQGHU�VXVSHFW��DQG�GHOHJLWLPL]H�WKH�IRRGV� RI� ,WDO\¶V� JURZLQJ� QXPEHUV� RI� LPPLJUDQWV²DSSUR[LPDWHO\� IRXU�PLOOLRQ��VHYHQ�SHUFHQW�RI�WKH�SRSXODWLRQ��5DQGDOO������������,Q�VSLWH�RI�WKH�KXJH�LQÀXHQFH�RQ�,WDOLDQ�FXLVLQH�RI�VXFK�LPPLJUDQW�SODQWV�DV�WRPDWRHV��SRWDWRHV��FRUQ��DQG�EHDQV��*XLJRQL� ������� &LQRWWR� SRLQWV� RXW� WKDW� ³WKH� ,WDOLDQ� FXOLQDU\� PRGHO� VHHPV� WR�UHVLVW� DOPRVW� FRPSOHWHO\� WKH� LQÀXHQFHV� RI� LPPLJUDQW� FXLVLQHV´� ������� �����P\�translation). He attributes this resistance to both Italian racism and to the economic EHQH¿WV� RI� HPSKDVL]LQJ� ORFDO� IRRGV�� EHQH¿WV� WKDW� %UDVLOL� DQG� )DQIDQL¶V� �������statistical analysis of agrifood districts supports.

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Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage���

SUROHWDULDW�JDLQV�OHVV�DWWHQWLRQ�RU�LV�LJQRUHG��:DOG��������)RU�H[DPSOH��,�MRLQHG�6ORZ�)RRG�&DJOLDUL�RQ�D�YLVLW�WR�WKH�6DQWD�0DUJKHULWD�GL�3XOD�7RPDWR�&RRSHUDWLYH�6DSRUH�GL�6ROH�ZKHUH�ZH�KDG�DQ�RUJDQL]HG�WRXU�RI�WKH�JUHHQKRXVH�DQG�SDFNLQJ�SODQW�4 :H�VSRNH�ZLWK�WKH�SXEOLF�UHODWLRQV�GLUHFWRU�DQG�WKH�VFLHQWLVWV��EXW�QRW�ZLWK�DQ\�RI�WKH�����IHPDOH�ZRUNHUV�DW� WKH�SDFNLQJ�SODQW��$W� WKH�0HUFDWR�&DPSDJQD�$PLFD�IDUPHUV¶�PDUNHW�RUJDQL]HG�E\�WKH�&ROGLUHWWL��,WDO\¶V�ODUJHVW�IDUPHUV¶�XQLRQ��,�WDONHG�VHYHUDO�WLPHV�ZLWK�0U��DQG�0UV��2UWX��LQGHSHQGHQW�YHJHWDEOH�IDUPHUV��7KH\�VSRNH�RI�KRZ�ZKROHVDOHUV�VTXHH]H�IDUPHUV��KRZ�SULFHV�KDYH�GURSSHG�ZKLOH�H[SHQVHV�DQG�UHJXODWLRQV�KDYH�ULVHQ��KRZ�KDUG�LW�LV�WR�PDNH�LW�LQ�IDUPLQJ��KRZ�GLI¿FXOW�LW�LV�WR�FRPSHWH�DJDLQVW�FKHDSHU�SURGXFH�IURP�QRUWKHUQ�$IULFD��EXW�QRQHWKHOHVV�KRZ�PXFK�WKH\�ZDQW�WR�FRQWLQXH�SURGXFLQJ�KLJK�TXDOLW\�6DUGLQLDQ�FURSV�

$W� WKH�PDUNHW�� ,� DOVR� VSRNH�ZLWK� WZR�&ROGLUHWWL� IDUPHUV¶�XQLRQ� HPSOR\HHV�DERXW� IDUPZRUNHUV�� DPRQJ� RWKHU� WRSLFV�� 7KH\� WROG� PH� WKDW� 6DUGLQLD� KDV�5RPDQLDQ��,QGLDQ��DQG�6HQHJDOHVH�IDUPZRUNHUV�ZKR�DOPRVW�DOZD\V�KDYH�YLVDV�DQG� ZRUN� SHUPLWV� EHFDXVH� WKH� ¿QHV� IRU� KLULQJ� LOOHJDO� LPPLJUDQWV� DUH� VWHHS��+RZHYHU��UHFHQW�UDFH�ULRWV�LQ�&DODEULD��,WDO\�EHWZHHQ�,WDOLDQV�DQG�XQGRFXPHQWHG�PLJUDQW� IDUPZRUNHUV� IURP� WKH� 0DJKUHE� DQG� VXE�6DKDUDQ�$IULFD� KLJKOLJKWHG�WKH�XVH�RI� LOOHJDO� LPPLJUDQW� ODERU�� WKH�H[SORLWDWLYH�FRQGLWLRQV�DQG� ORZ�SD\� LQ�DJULFXOWXUH��DQG�WKH�H[WUHPH�UDFLDO�KRVWLOLW\�RI�VRPH�,WDOLDQV�WRZDUGV�LPPLJUDQWV��,PPLJUDWLRQ� ������� $QWKURSRORJLVWV� DW� WKH� 8QLYHUVLW\� RI� &DJOLDUL� KDYH�IRXQG� LPPLJUDQWV�PDUJLQDOL]HG� LQ� 6DUGLQLD�ZKHWKHU� OHJDO� RU� QRW� �%DFKLV� DQG�3XVFHGGX�������&RQWX�������6LDV��������,VVXHV�RI�ODERU�DQG�FODVV��UDFH�HWKQLFLW\��and gender need greater sustained attention in food activism so that all the voices of the food system are heard.

+LQULFKV� ������� ���� RIIHUV� D� XVHIXO� SHUVSHFWLYH� RQ� WKLQNLQJ� DERXW� FXOWXUDO�heritage and food democracy when she uncovers two tendencies in food activism: ³GHIHQVLYH� ORFDOL]DWLRQ� DQG� PRUH� GLYHUVLW\�UHFHSWLYH� ORFDOL]DWLRQ�´� ,Q� &DJOLDUL��WKHUH�ZDV� HYLGHQFH�RI� ERWK�� )RU� H[DPSOH�� WKH� YHU\� QDPH�RI� WKH�&DJOLDUL�*$6��³&LUFROR�$SHUWR´�RU�³2SHQ�&LUFOH�´�SURFODLPHG�DQ�LQFOXVLYH�LGHRORJ\�UHÀHFWHG�LQ�GLYHUVH�SUDFWLFHV��2QH�RI�WKHLU�PDLQ�VXSSOLHUV�RI�IUXLWV�DQG�YHJHWDEOHV�ZDV�D�IHPDOH�*HUPDQ�LPPLJUDQW�ELRG\QDPLF�IDUPHU��)XUWKHUPRUH��%UXJKLWWD�H[SOLFLWO\�UHMHFWHG�WKH� H[WUHPH� ORFDOLVP� NQRZQ� LQ� ,WDO\� DV� campanilismo� RU� ³EHOO�WRZHU�LVP´� DQG�PDGH�URRP�IRU�SURGXFWV�RI�H[FHOOHQFH�IURP�HOVHZKHUH�ZKHQ�,�DVNHG�KLP�DERXW�WKH�importance of territorio:

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Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions ���

H[FHOOHQFH�OLNH�parmigiano reggiano have a production area located in northern ,WDO\��DQG�ZH�GRQ¶W�KDYH�WKDW�W\SH�RI�SURGXFWLRQ��VR�ZLWK�FRPSOHWH�WUDQTXLOLW\�ZH�buy parmigiano reggiano�«�:H�SULYLOHJH�ORFDO�SURGXFWV�EHFDXVH�ZH�KDYH�WKH�JRDO�RI�SULYLOHJLQJ�ORFDO�SURGXFHUV��EHFDXVH�WKH�IDUP�IDPLO\�KDV�WR�KDYH�D�MXVW�LQFRPH��2WKHUZLVH��ZH�ZLOO�FHDVH� WR�H[LVW�DV�6DUGLQLDQV�� �%UXJKLWWD� LQWHUYLHZ����-XQH������

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$QRWKHU� IRRG� DFWLYLVW�� 7HUHVD� 3LUDV�� D� IRXQGHU� DQG� OHDGHU� RI� WKH Centro di Sperimentazione Autosviluppo5� �WKH�&HQWHU� IRU�6HOI�'HYHORSPHQW�([SHULPHQWDWLRQ��GHVFULEHG�VHYHUDO�LQLWLDWLYHV�WR�SURPRWH�ORFDO�GHYHORSPHQW�E\�FUHDWLQJ�D�³WLH�EHWZHHQ�consumers and products of the territorio�´�+HU�JURXS�YDOXHG��XVHG��DQG�FRQVWDQWO\�UHGH¿QHG� FXOWXUDO� KHULWDJH� LQ� IRRG�� )RU� H[DPSOH�� WKH\� IRVWHUHG� DQ� HYHQW� WR� JUDIW�KHLUORRP�SHDUV�RQWR�ZLOG�SHDU�WUHHV��7KH�JURXS�RUJDQL]HG�D�ZRUNVKRS�WR�EXLOG�DQ�orto sinergico�� D� UDLVHG�EHG�QR�WLOO�JDUGHQ� WR�JURZ�YHJHWDEOHV� IXQGDPHQWDO� WR�6DUGLQLDQ�FXLVLQH��DQG�DQRWKHU�RQ�KRZ�WR�EDNH�WUDGLWLRQDO�EUHDG�XVLQJ�D�VRXUGRXJK�VWDUWHU��pasta madre��SDVVHG�GRZQ�IURP�WKH�EDNHU¶V�JUDQGPRWKHU�WR�VKDUH�ZLWK�DOO�WKH�SDUWLFLSDQWV��7KHVH� ZRUNVKRSV� KLJKOLJKWHG� HGXFDWLRQ� DERXW� ORFDO� 6DUGLQLDQ� FXOWXUDO� KHULWDJH� LQ�UHYLWDOL]LQJ�NQRZOHGJH�DERXW�IUXLW��YHJHWDEOHV��DQG�JUDLQV�WKDW�KDG�PDMRU�LPSRUWDQFH�WR�WKH�GLHW��DJULFXOWXUH��PDWHULDO�DUWV��DQG�VXUYLYDO��7KHLU�LQLWLDWLYHV�FRXOG�SRWHQWLDOO\�IRVWHU�IRRG�GHPRFUDF\�E\�PDNLQJ�DYDLODEOH�KHDOWK\��VXVWDLQDEOH��DQG�FXOWXUDOO\�PHDQLQJIXO�foods at accessible prices.

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Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage���

SURGXFWV�EHFDXVH�WKHLU�ZRUN�µLV�QRW�D�IRUP�RI�FORVXUH��EXW�RI�VROLGDULW\�ZLWK�DOO�VPDOO�SURGXFHUV�«�ZH�ZDQW�WR�SURPRWH�WKH�VKDULQJ�RI�ZHDOWK�¶

7HUHVD�3LUDV�YDOXHG�WKH�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH�IRRGZD\V�RI�WKH�VPDOO�6DUGLQLDQ�IDUPHUV�IURP�ZKRP�KHU�JURXS�ERXJKW�ORFDO�SURGXFH��DQG�RI�WKH�VPDOO�IDUPHUV�LQ�2D[DFD��0H[LFR�IURP�ZKRP�WKH\�ERXJKW� WKHLU�FRIIHH�� OLQNLQJ�WKHP�LQ�D�FRPPLWPHQW� WR�economic justice.

Not only is cultural heritage a means of promoting small farmers and their SURGXFWV�ORFDOO\�DQG�JOREDOO\��LW�LV�OHYHUDJH�IRU�HGXFDWLRQ��JRRG�KHDOWK\�IRRG��DQG�HQYLURQPHQWDO�VXVWDLQDELOLW\��)RU�H[DPSOH��RUJDQLF�IRRG�SURGXFHU�DQG�GLVWULEXWRU�Matteo Floris told a story about supplying a local nursery school run by the 3URYLQFH�RI�&DJOLDUL�ZLWK�RUJDQLF�SURGXFH��+H�VDLG�WKDW�WKH�DGPLQLVWUDWLRQ�WKHUH�RUGHUHG�IURP�KLP�D�WKRXVDQG�NLORJUDPV�RI�EDQDQDV�DQG����NLORJUDPV�RI�RUDQJHV��He explained to the nursery school dietician and director that he could procure RUJDQLF�EDQDQDV��EXW�WKH\�FDPH�IURP�KXQGUHGV�RI�PLOHV�DZD\��ZKHUHDV�KH�KLPVHOI�grew the oranges on Sardinian soil. Thus he tried to encourage them to order more RUDQJHV�DQG�IHZHU�EDQDQDV�WR�VXSSRUW�WKH�ORFDO�DJULFXOWXUDO�HFRQRP\��6DUGLQLDQ�WUDGLWLRQDO�GLHW�� DQG� VXVWDLQDEOH� IRRG��%XW�KRZ�PLJKW� VXFK� LQLWLDWLYHV�DIIHFW� WKH�IRRG�SUHIHUHQFHV�RI� LPPLJUDQW�FKLOGUHQ"�'HSHQGLQJ�RQ�ZKHUH� WKH\�FRPH�IURP��WKHLU� IRRGV�PLJKW� QRW� EH� DYDLODEOH� ORFDOO\��:LWK� LPPLJUDQWV� WRWDOLQJ���SHU� FHQW�RI� ,WDO\¶V� SRSXODWLRQ� DQG� JURZLQJ��ZKDW�ZLOO� KDSSHQ� WR� WKHLU� IRRGZD\V"�:KLOH�IRRG� DFWLYLVWV� VXSSRUW� VPDOO� IDUPHUV� DQG� GLYHUVH� IRRGZD\V� JOREDOO\�� ZLOO� WKH\�VXSSRUW�WKHP�RQ�,WDOLDQ�VRLO"�:LOO�D�GLVFRXUVH�RI�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH�PDNH�URRP�IRU�LPPLJUDQW� IRRGZD\V"�:KHQ� LPPLJUDQW�KDQGV�JURZ� WKHP��GR� IRRGV� UHWDLQ� WKHLU�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH"

There is some evidence that although immigrant foodways are resisted by PDLQVWUHDP�,WDOLDQV��WKH\�DUH�¿QGLQJ�D�QLFKH�DPRQJ�RWKHU�LPPLJUDQWV�DQG�\RXQJ�SHRSOH��'RQDGLR��������6HYHUDO�PLQL�HWKQRJUDSK\�SURMHFWV�E\�0DVWHUV�VWXGHQWV�in my Food Anthropology classes at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in &RORUQR�3DUPD� DQG� 3ROOHQ]R�%UD� RQ� PDLQODQG� ,WDO\� RYHU� WKH� ODVW� VHYHQ� \HDUV�have shown over and over again that extracomunitari—immigrants from outside WKH�(8��LQFOXGLQJ�$IULFDQ��PLGGOH�HDVWHUQ��&KLQHVH��DQG�1RUWK�$PHULFDQ²RIWHQ�VKRSSHG� DQG� DWH� DW� EXVLQHVVHV� UXQ� DQG� IUHTXHQWHG� E\� LPPLJUDQWV� RI� WKHLU� RZQ�DQG� RWKHU� JURXSV�� LQFOXGLQJ� NHEDE� VKRSV��+DODO� EXWFKHUV�� DQG� ³HWKQLF´� JURFHU\�VWRUHV²ORFDOHV� ZKLFK� ZHUH� LQH[SHQVLYH�� IDPLOLDU�� FRPIRUWDEOH�� DQG� RSHQ�FRQYHQLHQW�KRXUV��%XW�EDQV�OLNH�WKDW�RI�/XFFD��SURKLELWLQJ�HWKQLF�IRRG�VWDOOV�IURP�WKH�FLW\�FHQWHU��PD\�HIIHFWLYHO\�NHHS�LPPLJUDQWV�RXW�DV�ZHOO��5HVHDUFK�RQ�6HQHJDOHVH�LQ�QRUWKHUQ� ,WDO\� VKRZV� WKDW� IRU� LPPLJUDQWV� FRQWHVWHG� IRRGZD\V� FDQ� V\PEROL]H�WKH� VWUXJJOH� WR� ¿QG� D� SODFH� LQ� ,WDOLDQ� VRFLHW\� �&LQRWWR� ������ *DVSDUHWWL� ������5LFFLR��������,WDOLDQV¶�VWURQJ�DWWDFKPHQW�WR�WKHLU�UHJLRQDO�FXLVLQHV�FRPELQHG�ZLWK�the newness of immigration mean that the future of immigrants and their foodways in Italy is a provocative and unresolved issue.

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Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions ���

VR�HDVLO\�LQFOXVLYH�RI�QRQ�ORFDO�SHRSOH��FXLVLQHV��DQG�FXOWXUHV��QRU�RI�WKH�ODERUHUV�who produce the local foods. More research is needed on all stages of production RI�FXOWXUDO�KHULWDJH�IRRGV�WR�GHWHUPLQH�LI�WKHUH�DUH�IDLU�ZRUNLQJ�FRQGLWLRQV�DQG�MXVW�remuneration. Food activism imagines a plurality of localisms—both in Italy and DURXQG�WKH�JOREH��EXW�QHHGV�WR�HQJDJH�PRUH�GLUHFWO\�ZLWK�WKH�LQFUHDVLQJ�FXOWXUDO�diversity of foodways in Italy at the same time as promoting culinary cultural heritage and food democracy.

References

$QJLRQL�� *�� ������Rapporti di produzione e cultura subalterna: Contadini in Sardegna��&DJOLDUL��('(6�

$QJLRQL��*��������Sa Laurera: Il lavoro contadino in Sardegna��&DJOLDUL��('(6�%DFKLV��)��DQG�$��3XVFHGGX��������0RELOLWj��FRQ¿QL��UHOLJLRQL��SHU�XQ�DSSURFFLR�

FRPSDUDWLYR� LQ� DUHD� PHGLWHUUDQHD�� 7DON� DW� WKH� 8QLYHUVLW\� RI� &DJOLDUL��0D\����������

%UDVLOL��&��DQG�5��)DQIDQL��������7KH�$JULIRRG�'LVWULFWV�LQ�WKH�1HZ�0LOOHQQLXP��Proceedings in Food Systems Dynamics. System Dynamics and Innovation in Food Networks��HGLWHG�E\�0��)ULW]��8��5LFNHUW��*��6FKLHIHU��SS����±���

&DSDWWL��$�� DQG�0��0RQWDQDUL��������La cucina italiana: storia di una cultura. 5RPD�%DUL��/DWHU]D�

&DSDWWL��$���$��'H�%HUQDUGL�DQG�$��9DUQL��HGV��������Storia d’Italia: l’alimentazione. �$QQDOL������7RULQR��(LQDXGL�

&LQRWWR��6��������³/D�FXFLQD�GLDVSRULFD��LO�FLER�FRPH�VHJQR�GL�LGHQWLWj�FXOWXUDOH�´�in Storia d’Italia. Annali 24. Migrazioni��3DROD�&RUWL�DQG�0DWWHR�6DQ¿OLSSR��HGV���7XULQ��(LQDXGL��SS�����±���

&LUHVH��$�0���(��'HOLWDOD��&��5DPSDOOR�DQG�*��$QJLRQL��������Pani tradizionali, DUWH�HI¿PHUD�LQ�6DUGHJQD��&DJOLDUL��('(6�

&RQWL�� 3�&�� ������ La leggenda del buon cibo italiano e altri miti alimentari contemporanei��/XFFD��)D]L�

&RQWX��6��������'UXP�EXQ��6LVWHPD�PLJUDWRULR�UXPHQR��YHFFKL�H�QXRYL�FRQWHVWL�GL�PRELOLWj��7DON�DW�WKH�8QLYHUVLW\�RI�&DJOLDUL��0D\����������

&RXQLKDQ��&��������Food Culture and Political Economy: Changing Lifestyles in the Sardinian town of Bosa��'RFWRUDO�'LVVHUWDWLRQ��$QWKURSRORJ\��8QLYHUVLW\�of Massachusetts.

&RXQLKDQ�� &�� ������ %UHDG� DV� :RUOG�� )RRG� +DELWV� DQG� 6RFLDO� 5HODWLRQV� LQ�0RGHUQL]LQJ�6DUGLQLD��Anthropological Quarterly�����������±���

&RXQLKDQ��&��������)HPDOH�,GHQWLW\��)RRG��DQG�3RZHU�LQ�&RQWHPSRUDU\�)ORUHQFH��Anthropological Quarterly����������±���

&RXQLKDQ��&��������The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning and Power��1HZ�<RUN��5RXWOHGJH�

&RXQLKDQ�� &�� ������ Around the Tuscan Table: Food, Family and Gender in Twentieth Century Florence��1HZ�<RUN��5RXWOHGJH�

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Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage���

'DO\��)��������7XQLVLDQ�0LJUDQWV�DQG�WKHLU�H[SHULHQFHV�RI�5DFLVP�LQ�,WDO\��Modern Italy����������±���

'RQDGLR��5��������/XFFD�-RXUQDO��$�:DOOHG�&LW\�LQ�7XVFDQ\�&OLQJV�WR�,WV�$QFLHQW�Menu. New York Times��0DUFK����������KWWS���ZZZ�Q\WLPHV�FRP������������ZRUOG�HXURSH���OXFFD�KWPO��FRQVXOWHG����'HFHPEHU�������

'X3XLV��(�0��DQG�'��*RRGPDQ��������6KRXOG�:H�*R�³+RPH´�7R�(DW"�7RZDUG�D�5HÀH[LYH�3ROLWLFV�RI�/RFDOLVP��Journal of Rural Studies��������±���

*DVSDUHWWL��)��������(DWLQJ�D� tie bou jenn in Turin: Negotiating differences and building community among Senegalese migrants in Italy. Forthcoming in Food and Foodways�������±��

*UDVVHQL�� &�� ������ 5HLQYHQWLQJ� IRRG�� WKH� HWKLFV� RI� GHYHORSLQJ� ORFDO� IRRG�� ,Q�Ethical Consumption: Social Value and Economic Practice. James G. Carrier DQG�3HWHU�*��/XHWFKIRUG��HGV���2[IRUG��%HUJKDKQ�3XEOLVKHUV�

*UDVVHQL�� &�� )RUWKFRPLQJ�� 'DOOR� KRPH�EDQNLQJ� DOOR� KRPH�EDNLQJ�� 6REULHWj��VRVWHQLELOLWj�H�VROLGDULHWj�QHOOH�QXRYH�FXOWXUH�GHO�SDQH��,Q�Cibo e Sacro. Culture a confronto. Luigi M. Lombardi Satriani e Roberto Cipriani (eds). Roma: Armando Editore.

*XLJRQL��$�� ������Alla scoperta dell’America in Sardegna. Vegetali americani nell’alimentazione sarda��&DJOLDUL��$0'�

*XLJRQL��$��������,O�FDSSHUR�GL�6HODUJLXV��$VSHWWL�VWRULFL�H�FXOWXUDOL�GL�XQD�SLDQWD�ultracentenaria. Anthropos e Iatria����������±���

+DVVDQHLQ�� 1�� ������ 3UDFWLFLQJ� )RRG� 'HPRFUDF\�� $� 3UDJPDWLF� 3ROLWLFV� RI�Transformation. Journal of Rural Studies�������±���

+HOVWRVN\��&�)��������Garlic and Oil: Politics of Food in Italy��1HZ�<RUN��2[IRUG��%HUJ�3XEOLVKHUV�

+LQULFKV��&�&��������7KH�SUDFWLFH�DQG�SROLWLFV�RI�IRRG�V\VWHP�ORFDOL]DWLRQ��Journal of Rural Studies�������±���

,PPLJUDWLRQ�LQ�,WDO\��6RXWKHUQ�PLVHU\��$Q�XJO\�UDFH�ULRW�UHÀHFWV�VRFLDO� WHQVLRQV�and economic problems in the south. The Economist�����-DQXDU\������

/DQJ��7�� ������ )RRG�3ROLF\� IRU� WKH� ��VW�&HQWXU\��&DQ� ,W�%H�%RWK�5DGLFDO� DQG�5HDVRQDEOH"�,Q�For Hunger-Proof Cities: Sustainable Urban Food Systems. 0��.RF��5��0DF5DH��/�-�$��0RXJHRW�DQG�-��:HOVK��HGV���2WWDZD��,QWHUQDWLRQDO�'HYHORSPHQW�5HVHDUFK�&HQWUH��SS�����±���

/H/DQQRX��0��������Pâtres e Paysans de la Sardaigne. Tours: Arrault e C.0RQWDQDUL�� /�� ����D�� )RUWH� GHL� 0DUPL� GLFH� VWRS� D� NHEDE� H� IDVW� IRRG� La

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0RQWDQDUL�� /�� ����E�� )LUHQ]H�� VSDUL� FRQWUR� L� VHQHJDOHVL�� HVWUHPLVWD� ID� GXH�PRUWL�e si uccide. La Repubblica�� ��� 'HFHPEHU�� ������ KWWS���ZZZ�UHSXEEOLFD�LW�FURQDFD������������QHZV�¿UHQ]HBJLDQOXFDBFDVVHULBNLOOHUBVHQHJDOHVLBVXLFLGD�����������DFFHVVHG����'HFHPEHU����

5DQGDOO��)��������,WDO\¶V�1HZ�5DFLVP��The Nation,���)HEUXDU\���������±���

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Cultural Heritage in Food Activism: Local and Global Tensions ���

5LFFLR��%��������6HQHJDOHVH�6WUHHW�VHOOHUV��UDFLVP��DQG�WKH�GLVFRXUVH�RQ�³LUUHJXODU�trade” in Rimini. Modern Italy����������±���

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