Nordstrom Product Group

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL• Ruby & Bloom – Stem – Tucker & Tate – Treasure & Bond – Harper Canyon

February 2020

In reviewing the Construction manual table of content, please reference below diagram to locate the accurate page. Our naming format is as below:

“ 1 – W – pockets – A ” 1st portion is the number of the top main category. (1 for Tops, 2 for Bottoms, 3 for 2pc/Dresses, 4 for General) 2nd portion is the letter for the fabric type. (W for woven, K for Knits, S for Sweaters, G for General) 3rd portion is the descriptive file name 4th portion is the end letter for variations

“1-W-Sleeve Setting-A” for example: this is a construction method for a Top, made with woven fabric, on how to set sleeves, construction variance A As always, please contact your technical designer should you have any questions.

Table of Contents Kids

1-K-Cuff 1 1-K-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns 2 1-K-Placket interlining 3 1-K-Seam Construction 4 1-K-Shoulder Seam-A 5 1-K-Sleeve body construction 6 1-S-Armhoe Shaping Standards 7 1-S-Hanging Pocket Bag Standards 8 1-S-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Pattern 9 1-S-Matching Standards 10 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-A 11 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-B 12 1-S-Seam Finish 13 1-S-Sleeve and Bottom Opening Standards 14 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-A 15 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-B 16 1-W-Collars-A 17 1-W-Cuffs 18 1-W-Front Placket 19 1-W-Interlining on Collar Bands 20 1-W-Interlining on Lined Jackets 21 1-W-Interlining Standards 22 1-W-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Pattern-B 23 1-W-Pockets Patch Pockets-A 24 1-W-Sleeve Construction 25 1-W-Top Hems 26 1-W-Yoke seam 27 2-G-Functional Elastic Expansion Drawstring-A 28 2-G-Functional Elastic Expansion Drawstring-B 29 2-G-Functional Elastic Expansion Drawstring-C 30 2-G-Waistband-A 31 2-G-Waistband-B 32 2-K-Seam Construction 33 2-W-Bottom Closures 34 2-W-Bottom Closures for Separating Inseam 35

2-W-Bottom Hem-A 36 2-W-Pockets Coin Pocket-A 37 2-W-Pockets Front Pockets-B 38 2-W-Pockets Patch Pockets with and without flap 39 2-W-Pockets Welt Pockets 40 2-W-Seam Construction 41 4-G-Bead and Sequin 42 4-G-Button Setting Method-A 43 4-G-Button Setting Method-B 44 4-G-Drawstrings and Ties Terminology 45 4-G-Drawstrings and Ties 46 4-G-Fabric handling 47 4-G-Grainline for sweater 48 4-G-Hardware Attachment 49 4-G-Loop Buttonhole 50 4-G-Pressing-A 51 4-G-Seam finish 52 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-F 53 4-G-Stitch Terminology 54 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 55 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 56 4-W-Seam Construction 57

Rib Trim Cu�

Cut cu� trim smaller than sleeve opening depending on stretch and recovery of the trim.

Stretch trim while setting so that it will lay �at to the body.

Set trim to body with 4 thread overlock.

001

MATCHING PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERN

Paired = Vertical stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body.

Match = Horizontal alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.

See spec pack details and construction sketch for instructions on uneven plaid stripe or pattern repeats.

Matching Tolerances ▪ 0” for presentation areas: center front, pocket and split yoke ▪ 1/16” for non-presentation areas: yoke to top collar and collar band

Matching Standards - Knit Tops ▪ Sleeves: Paired ▪ Sleeves: Match at mid-armhole ▪ Sideseams : Match

Matching Standards - Knit Bottoms ▪ Front and Back Rise: Match ▪ Pockets: Paired

002

FRONT PLACKETS

▪ Set interlining to top layer of front and back placket facings.

▪ Set all buttonholes vertically. ▪ Fold and set facing with SN/Lock.

Clean finish. ▪

003

For Knits Tops:

Seam Finish Location4 thread overlock (514) Side Seam

UnderarmArmhole/Sleeve SetShoulderPlacketCollarCuff

3 thread overlock with SN/Chain (504, 401) HemSN/Lock (301) Pocket Set

004

SHOULDER SEAM

1/4” Clear Elastic must be set in join seam at shoulder.

BACK BACK

CLEAR ELASTIC TAPE

Note:

005

SLEEVE AND BODY CONSTRUCTION

1. Join shoulder seam2. Join sleeve cap to armhole3. Close sleeve seam and side seam in 1 operation4. Turn back sleeve and body hem

▫ Stitch as requests in spec pack construction ▫

Note: Do NOT turn back hems before step 3.

2.

1.

3. 4.

Hem should be clean finished at bottom edge

006

ARMHOLE SHAPING STANDARDS

▪Add cast off at underarm of sleeve and armhole for all sweaters whenever it is posible. ▪Set in sleeve - 1/2” cast off. ▪Raglan sleeve - 1” cast off. ▪

Set in sleeve without cast off @ under arm

1/2” cast off @ underarm. Set in sleeve

1” cast off @ underarm - Raglan sleeve

Note:

This eliminates excess pulling or bunching up at the underarm when wearing.

007

HANGING POCKET BAG STANDARDS

Quality Point

▪ Pocket opening can be made with various stitches and will be specified in VCS

▪ Make with jersey stitch continuous piece. ▪ Close the both sides of pocket bag by linking.

008

MATCHING PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNSRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes and patterns unless otherwise statedin the specification package.

Matching Standards

Collar Paired and balancedCollar band Paired and balancedCuffs Paired and balancedBack Yoke Prominent stripe/plaid to be centered vertically or

horizontallyFronts Left and right fronts to be paired and horizontally matched

Left and right fronts to be vertically paired from centerPockets Matched horizontally and vertically to the frontBack Prominent stripe/plaid to be centeredSleeves Paired and balanced

sleeve notchFront Plackets Prominent stripe/plaid must be centeredSide seams Matched horizontally

For uneven fabric plaid, stripe or pattern repeats, need to follow special instructions on the VCS.When selecting matching lines, avoid bright or narrow contrast lines at dart points.Note:

009

MATCHING STANDARDS

CablesPlace cables balanced between left and right side of garment, unless otherwise specifiedin style specification package. Note: Follow specification package for style specific directions.

Plaids, Stripes, and PatternsRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes, and patterns unless otherwise stated in the specification package.

TerminologyFully Balanced = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body(Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and /or vertically in each garment.One way match = horizontalTwo way match = horizontal and vertical

Matching Tolerances

0” for presentation areas: center front

010

NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

V Neck

▪ ▪

Double layer neck trim ▪ Also, it needs to be knotted at beginning and the end of each linking. These knots will later be secured by linking the neck trim to body.

▪

Single layer neck trim ▪

Crew Neck

▪ See VCS for construction details

011

NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Half Zip Mock

▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side panels must be balanced at neck seam and neck opening. ▪ Set 5/8” wide full needle rib tape inside of garment. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Full Zip Front

▪ Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side. ▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck and bottom opening. ▪ Set 1” wide 5/8” wide full needle rib tape facing. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Button Front

▪ CF Placket can be made with continuous tape with full needle, rib single layer, or jersey double layer.

▪ Set buttons at wearer’s right hand side and buttonholes at wearer’s left hand side. ▪ Utilize thread shank for the buttons to prevent curves at edge of CF placket after button.

▪ If buttons are used, buttons will mainly be set in the vertical direction. Exceptions will be defined in VCS.

▪ Set neckband button and buttonhole so that when buttoned all buttons align

012

For Sweaters:

Seam Finish LocationFully Fashion See Tech Pack for DetailsLink Shoulders

Neck TrimArmholeSideseamPlacketPocketsDetails

Self Start Cuffs & BandsTubular See Tech pack for Details4 thread overlock (514) *With TD approval only

013

SLEEVE AND BOTTOM OPENING STANDARDS

Variations

▪ 1x1, 2x2, 2x3, or 3x3 Single start rib or double layer layer rib. ▪ Jersey tubular or Full needle. ▪ Links and links.

Quality Point

▪ Linked seams must be secured to prevent unravel.

014

SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

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l l l l l l l l l l l l

All Sweaters should have clear elastic set to the back shoulder seam, unless the shoulder seam is fully fashioned and set to the back.

Fully Fashioned shoulder seam to back

Clear elastic

015

SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

Tubular Neck Trims - Fine Gauge

Cast off shoulder seam and link together, stabilize with DTM Nylon Taping. Tubular Neck Trims: catch endof DTM Nylon Taping insidetubular when linking neck trim(�ne and chunky gauges)

Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam

Non-Tubular Neck Trims - Fine and Chunky Gauge

Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam

Non-Tubular neck trims:fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at endand tack down along necktrim seam. (�ne andchunky gauges)

016

COLLAR STANDARDS

Collar and collar band operations must be single needle lockstitch, ISO# 301.Collar band must be squared to front edge to avoid gapping between neck seam and the 1st body button. Collar and collar band must be clean finished.Vertical buttonholes at collar point cannot be set into topstitch. Collar points should be fully turned. Topstitch 3/16” for dresswear, 1/4” for sportswear

▪▪

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1/16” SNL

1/16” SNLSNL

3/16” SNL Stay Stitch

1/16” SNL

1/16” SNLSNL

3/16” SNL Stay Stitch

Button-down Collar Regular Collar

▪

017

CUFFS

Woven 2-piece Cuff ▪ Set cuff and topstitch with SN/Lock. ▪ Topstitch cuff edge with 3/16” margin dresswear,

▪ Set button 1/2” from edge of cuff to center of

button. ▪ Prestitch two 1/2” pleats before setting cuff. ▪ First pleat is 7/8” from placket edge and second pleat is 1/2” from

Rib Trim Cuff ▪ Cut cuff trim smaller than sleeve opening depending on stretch and recovery of the trim.

▪ Stretch trim while setting so that it will lay to the body.

▪ Set trim to body with 4-thread overlock.

SNL TS

1/2”

1/2”1/2”7/8”

1/2” Pleat Depth

1/16” Margin1/4” Gauge

1/16” SNL

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Und

er P

lkt

1/4” SNL

1/16” SNL

3/8” SNL Stay Stitch

1/4” sportswear

018

FRONT PLACKETS

Woven

▪ ▪

French Placket Set-On Placket

Loop Buttonhole

▪ For styles with a loop buttonhole, set 1/8” wide

elastic into binding, with two sets of SN/L tacks. ▪ Turn binding, then topstitch again on outside.

Extra Buttons

Boys Dress Shirts

Top Placket:Double Turn,No Topstitching

Bottom Placket:Double Turn w/SN/L

Bottom Placket:Double Turn w/SN/L

Top Placket:Set w/ 2N/Chain double sided folder

7/8” 7/8”

Wearer’s Right Side

Care

/Con

tent

1 3/8”

16L

14L

019

INTERLINING ON COLLAR AND BAND

COLLAR

Apply interlining to outer collar in direction of grain.Apply bias interlining to under collar.Once the band and collar have been joined, apply stabilizer to the collar band at the neck seam.

Block fusing is also acceptable.

Outer Collar and Band

Under Collar and Band

InterliningAngle of LineRepresentsGrainlineof Interlining

Shell

020

Body Pieces: Layer 1

Interlining: Fully Lined Jackets: Fusing

The front panel should be fully interlined.The Princess, side panels and back are interlined for 2” at the armhole and hem. Upper Back can be stabilized in either of the 2 options:A. Fused PanelB. Lapped Percaline

Exceptions to be confirmed by TD▪Loosely woven fabrics▪Fabric with long floats▪Light weight▪Light color

Front Back

2”

SidePan

2”

Front

2”

2”

OVERLAP PERCALINEAT CENTER BACKTO ADD “GIVE”

OPTION 2 METHODPERCALINE AT BACK

1. Full front2. Under arm3. Bottom hem4. Upper back (2 options) A. Fused panel B. Non fused lapped Percaline

FUSIBLEINTERLINING

021

INTERLINING STANDARDSPlease follow Bill of Materials needed for interlining Quality.

Woven Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Bond strength▪Show through▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.▪Verify heat setting on fusing machine at least twice a day.

Woven Non - Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.

022

Matching Standards - Woven Tops & BottomsPlacement Sketch Matching

TopsTop Collar Points Paired

Sleeves, cuffs, sleeve plackets

Paired

Front Body, Pocket Match

Front Placket Dominant strip in center

Fronts - Bias Paired

Split Back Yoke Paired

BottomsWaistband Center plaid in waistband at CF

Front Match & Paired at CF

Back Match & Paired at CB

Pockets - Back Paired

CBv

CBv

BackBack Front

023

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▪

▪

▪

▪

POCKETS -TOPSPatch PocketSet pockets evenly on body horizontally and vertically.

Form pocket shapes symmetrically.

Seam allowance on pockets must not show to outside.

Reinforce top corners with a bartack or see Main Sketch.

Flap is 1/8” larger than pocket.

Set flap 3/8” away from pocket.

Pockets must be pre-creased before setting.

Horizontal bartack opening if 2N topstitch.

Vertical bartack opening if single needle topstitch.

024

SLEEVE AND BODY CONSTRUCTION

1. Join shoulder seam2. Join sleeve cap to armhole3. Close sleeve seam and side seam in 1 operation4. Turn back sleeve and body hem

▫ Stitch as requests in spec pack construction ▫

Note: Do NOT turn back hems before step 3.

2.

1.

3. 4.

Hem should be clean finished at bottom edge

025

TOP HEMSRaw edge

▪

2N Bottom Cover ▪ Finish with 2N cover bottom ▪ Cover edge of hem completely ▪ Do not set wavy or with exposed hem ▪ Roping or tunneling is not acceptable.

Clean Finish with Topstitch ▪Lock for woven products and SN/Chain for knit products.

▪ Boy’s Dress Shirts have 3/16” margin.

Blind Hem ▪ 3 Thread Overlock edge, turn under and hem with blind hemmer. Caution that hem stitching does not show to outside of garment.

Overlock with Topstitch ▪ 3 thread overlock bottom edge, turn,

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026

Woven Yokes

▪ ▪ Close with SN/Lock and topstitch with SN/Lock if required. ▪ Prestitch pleat before setting yoke.

Inner and outer yoke clean finish body panel.

027

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How to construct the Elastic and Drawstring string together: Overlap Elastic* and drawstring minimum 1 1/4”. Bartack 1/4” from each end

1/4”1/4”

1 1/4”Elastic Drawstring or Drawcord

FUNCTIONAL ELASTIC EXPANSION DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION

Functional elastic expansion drawstrings construction: allows for more function and comfort for the customer. Meets drawstring restrictions and regulations. (Note: Review all safety requirements for length and regulations)Refer to BOM for waistband elastic (Note: this elastic does not replace waistband elastic)NOTE: Not all styese will follow this construction

*Minimum width of Elastic : 5/8” -Quality must be approved by the TD.

See option 1 or 2 on the following pages for required elastic length

1 of 3Updated 2/2020

028

When Waist Relaxed spec to Waist Stretched spec has a 3” or less di�erence:Have elastic panel go from outseam to outseam

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Elastic

Drawstring

Overlap & Bartacks

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Drawstring

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Stretched

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opt 1:FUNCTIONAL ELASTIC EXPANSION DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION

2 of 3Updated 2/2020

029

FUNCTIONAL ELASTIC EXPANSION DRAWSTRING CONSTRUCTION

3 of 3

opt 2:Sizes 4-20:When Waist Relaxed spec to Waist Stretched spec has a 3” or more di�erence:Have elastic panel stop 2” from outseam

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Elastic

Drawstring

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2”

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Elastic

Drawstring

Overlap & Bartackswwwwwwwwww

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Sizes NB-3:When Waist Relaxed spec to Waist Stretched spec has a 3” or more di�erence:Have elastic panel stop 1 1/4”

Drawstring

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Stretched

3”

Updated 2/2020

030

WAISTBANDSWaistbands should include interlining as needed.

Waistband with Adjustable Elastic

▪ Set interlining to inner layer of waistband. ▪ 2-piece waistbands can be folder set or set-on. ▪ Insert perforated elastic for adjustable waist. Caution elastic is not caught in the seams.

▪ Securely stitch adjustable elastic at CB.

Waistband with Elastic Back

▪ Set interlining to inner layer of waistband. ▪ Elastic securely attached to side seams. ▪ Caution elastic is not caught in the seams. ▪ Topstitch back elastic - see style sketch for detail.

Waistband with Curtain with Adjustable Elastic

▪ Set interlining to inner layer of waistband. ▪ Finish inside edge of waistband with binding, set with SN/Lock, 1/16” margin.

▪ Topstitching can be SN/L or SN/C at 1/8” margin,

▪ Insert perforated elastic for adjustable waist. Caution elastic is not caught in the seams.

▪ Securely stitch adjustable elastic at CB.Facing with Adjustable Elastic

▪ Understitch facing with SN/Lock. ▪ Finish edge of facing with 3-thread overlock. ▪ Insert perforated elastic or regular elastic, depending on if the bottom has adjustable waist or elastic waist. Caution elastic is not caught at the seams.

▪ Securley stitch adjustable elastic at CB.

Enclosed Elastic Waistband

▪ Fold over top of waist to enclose bottom of elastic. ▪ Stitch bottom of elastic - see style sketch for detail.

Overlock Elastic Waistband

▪ Overlock elastic to edge of waist. ▪ Turn and stitch - see style sketch for detail.

031

3”

Cent

er F

ront

1”

Adjustable Waistband

All Kid’s bottoms have adjustable waist unless noted in tech pack.

Front Adjustable Waist Finish

Set buttonholes 3” away from center front. Give enough elastic to allow the waistband to lay naturally with no gathering when relaxed. Set center of button 1” from buttonhole.

Back Adjustable Waist Finish

Securely stitch perforated elastic at center back. Styles with belt loops at center back seam, stitch through all layers of waistband at center backStyles with no belt loops at center back seam, stitch only through inside layer. Stitch can not show on outside of waistband

032

For Knit Bottoms:

Seam Finish Location4 thread overlock (514) Front Rise

Back RiseInseamOutseam

3 thread overlock and turn/topstitch (504, TBD) WaistbandBartack (304) Crotch Junction

033

Back leg panel Front leg panel

Separating InseamMany infant styles have a separating inseam with gusset

Form two layer gusset with shaped front by folding gusset in center

Set double layer gusset to back inseam with 4 thread mock safety overlock. Finish front leg with facing. Front facing edge finished with 3 thread overlock. SN/Lock topstitch facing closed

Foldline

034

ClosuresFly RegularFly must be bartacked at bottom of zipper stop and at J junction.All �ys for boys and girls are set left over right- “unisex”.

Fly FauxIf setting a faux �y, form without seam at center front and with �y open at center front.

Invisible Zipper Inside of zipper opening must be tacked with stitch to stop end. Zipper must be 1/2” longer from slide stop to zip end than zipper opening to prevent zipper from being completely unzipped or pulled out of the seam.

Separating Zipper Sizes 2-20: As American Standard: Zipper pull on wearer’s right hand side, pin on wearer’s left hand side. Sizes Premie-24M: Zipper pull on wearer’s left hand side, pin on wearer’s right hand side.

Faux Fly

Outside View Inside View

FOLDED EDGEOF FLY

FLY EXTENSION SEWN INTO SEAM

ZIPPER ENDS

LEFT FLYEXTENDS BEYONDZIPPER END

BACK TACK

035

BOTTOM HEMS

Raw edge ▪

2N Bottom Cover ▪ Finish with 2N cover bottom ▪ Cover edge of hem completely ▪ Do not set wavy or with exposed hem ▪ Roping or tunneling is not acceptable.

Clean Finish with Topstitch ▪Lock for woven products and SN/Chain for knit products.

▪ Boy’s Dress Shirts have 3/16” margin.

Blind Hem ▪ 3 Thread Overlock edge, turn under and hem with blind hemmer. Caution that hem stitching does not show to outside of garment.

Overlock with Topstitch ▪ 3 thread overlock bottom edge, turn,

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036

Coin Pocket ▪

▪

▪

Clean finish top hem of coin pocket with SN/L.

Bottom of coin pocket can be set along with

Vertical bartack top corners of coin pockets.

037

Scoop Slash Angle

▪

▪

▪

▪

▪

▪

POCKETS - BOTTOMSFront PocketsSet pockets evenly on body horizontally and vertically.

Prestitch or hang pocket to body before set waistband.

Form pocket shapes symmetrically.

Seam allowance on pockets should not show to outside.

Reinforce bottom corners with a back tack.

Pockets must be pre-creased before setting

038

▪ ▪ ▪ ▪

2N Topstitching SN Topstitching

▪ ▪ ▪ ▪

Patch PocketClean finish top hem with SN/L.Set patch pocket with clean finish.Horizontal bartack pocket opening for pockets with 2N topstitching.Vertical bartack pocket opening for pockets with SN topstitching.

Flap width should always be 1/8” larger than patch pocket width.Set flap 3/8” away from pocket top edge.Horizontal bartack at topstitch at top of flap.Refer to style specifiation for topstitch details.

Patch Pocket With Flap

039

Welt PocketTopstitch outside edge with SN/L, 1/16” margin. Bartack ends.

Single Double

Inside of Welt Pocket ▪ Form pocket facings and linings so that bulk is minimized. ▪ Prestitch or hang pocket to body before set waistband. ▪ Catch facing in pocket side seams or outside closure. ▪ ▪ Facing length should be minimum of 1 1/2” from top of welt.

Clean finish pocket side seams or outside closure.

Refer to style speci�cation for actual size of welts.

040

For Light Weight Woven Bottoms:

Seam Finish Location4 thread overlock (514) Front Rise5 thread safety (516) Back Rise

InseamOutseam

SN/Chain or Folder Set (401) Waistband

For Heavier Weight or Denim Woven Bottoms:

Seam Finish Location5 thread safety with 2N/Lock topstitch (516, 301) Front Rise

Back RiseInseamOutseam

SN/Chain or Folder Set (401) Waistband

041

Bead and Sequin Sewing Specifications- Tie off on every sixth bead or sequin.

042

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BUTTON SET

Button

Machine Set Button

NPG requires Lock Stitch button sew Type #304

Button Sew Thread (POV)Use Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specified on VCS4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per hole)

Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open

Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Hand Set Button

Must be set with double strand thread Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open

Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Button Sew ThreadUse Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specificed 4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per

Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Knotting must be secured and hidden

2 Hole

4 Hole

043

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLE STANDARDS

Button Setting Method

We prefer buttons to be set with lock stitch machines and finely finished on underside. If only chain stitch machines are available, please be sure the cycle is correct so that the last stroke locks the chain on the inside of the garment. We do not set buttons with an “X” stitch. We make two horizontal stitches on a lock-stitch machine.

Shanks (Wrapping)

The length of the thread shank should be determined by the thickness of the fabric. The button should hold the garment closed without distort-ing the buttonhole.Buttons with shanks should not be wrapped.

Thread

Match the thread color to the button unless otherwise stated in the spec pack. Use Perma Cored or equivalent Tex 40 button sewing thread for buttons. Do not use thread designed for single needle or over lock machines.Note: For inside buttons and hook & bar, fuse fabric to add strength if needed.

044

DRAWSTRING AND TIE TERMINOLOGY

VCS Terminology Definition

Elastic in Waistband Tunnel elastic is enclosed in the waist band.TD calls out tacking in VCS

Overlock Elastic WaistbandOr Turnback Waistband

elastic is caught in to waistband seam

Functional Drawstring a single piece drawstring inside the waist band that can be adjusted by wearer to fit as preferred. TD calls out tacking in VCS.

Functional Elastic Expansion Drawstring a drawstring that has an expansion elastic insert and is enclosed in the waistband tunnel .TD calls out tacking on VCS.

Functional Tie 2 separate pieces that tie together and can be adjusted by wearer to fit as preferred.

Non Functional Tie 2 separate pieces that tie together and are tacked in place and are not adjustable. TD calls out tacking on VCS

Drawstring and Tie construc�on will be called out on VCS using below terminology. Refer to construc�on manual for images and addi�onal informa�on. These can be used separately or in combina�on.

For all Children's Apparel, Safety Regula�ons apply to all drawstring and �e construc�ons.

4-G Drawstrings and TiesTerminology

045

Hot knife cut

Turn/SN/Ltack

Turn/bartack

Bartackend

Drawstrings or TiesDrawstrings or tie length regulations can be found in the Children’s Safety Program Manual: https://www.nordstromsupplier.com/NPG/productintegrity.html

Drawstrings must be tacked as speci�ed in the Children’s Safety Manual, unless otherwise stated in the tech pack.

Finish end of drawstring with hot knife cut (where applicable), turn and stitch or bartack on end. Knots are not allowed on ends of drawstringsor ties.

046

FABRIC HANDLING

Fabric InspectionNPG requires The 4-Point System and Fabric Sampling Plan.Refer to the Fabric Inspection Guidelines link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.

Flaws/DefectsProduction Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.

▪ Please contact NPG Production Developer ▪ Production Planner may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision

▫ Minimum of 1 yard full widthSpreading and CuttingNPG does not accept Drill Holes.Refer to the Process Inspection link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.

Shading

Fabric must be shade sorted.All cut parts must be identified with an appropriate numbering system.

▪ If adhesive stickers, paper tags or chalk is used for numbering cut parts, they must beremoved before pressing

If there are Shading issues: ▪ Please contact NPG Product Developer ▪ Product developer may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision

▫ Minimum of 1/4 yard full width

Production Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.Note: Follow Visual Construction Sheet (VCS) for style specific directions

Cut DirectionNapped fabrics: 1 way, nap upNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way

Cut Direction - KidsNapped fabrics: Nap down unless otherwise speci�ed in teck packNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way

047

KNIT DIRECTION

For all solid fabrications, body, sleeve and inside panels are cut on straight of grain.These standards should be followed for all knit tops, unless otherwise stated on the VCS for style specific directions.

048

HARDWARE ATTACHMENT

For Snaps( 4-Part and Prong), Rivets, and Jeans Buttons

▪ Should be set firmly against the fabric surface▪ Should not be loose or easily pulled off the garment ▪ Fastening components should be set parallel to one another ▪ Must not be set on uneven fabric thickness ▪ Must not be set on a seam or stitch line since it may cut the thread reducing seam integrity

▪ Before beginning production, the snap set machine must be checked for correct set-up with appropriate pressure applied ▪ Applying the fastener to fabric layers that are too thin or too thick will reduce the attachment strength ▪ Use appropriate interlining ▪ For 4-part snaps, use plastic washer (when garment layers are too thin or unstable)

Correct Too Loose Too Thick Uneven

049

Loop Buttonhole

▪ For styles with a loop buttonhole, set 1/8” wide elastic into binding, with two sets of SN/L tacks. ▪ Turn binding, then topstitch again on outside.

EXTRA BUTTONS

Boys Dress Shirts

16L

14L 1 3/8”

Wearer’s Right Side

Care

/Con

tent

Lab

el

050

PRESSING

▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification ▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation andpresses

▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:

▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable▫ Over pressing not acceptable▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.

051

For Knit Underwear:

Seam Finish Location

3 thread overlock (504) Crotch SeamOutseam

See Tech Pack for Details Waistband & Leg Opening

For Sweaters:

Seam Finish LocationFully Fashion See Tech Pack for DetailsLink Shoulders

Neck TrimArmholeSideseamPlacketPocketsDetails

Self Start Cuffs & BandsTubular See Tech pack for Details4 thread overlock (514) *With TD approval only

052

STITCH AND SEAM CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINE Unless otherwise noted on the construction callouts page, the below are the standards to follow.

Stitches Per Inch GuidelineLocation

Boy’s Woven Top

Girl’s Woven Blouse

Knit Tops & Bottoms

Tight Fit Sleepwear

UnderwearLight Wt Woven Bottoms

Heavier Wt Wvn/Denim Bttms

Assembly 13-15 SPI 12-14 SPI 10-12 SPI 13-15 SPI 15-17 SPI 10-12 SPI 10-12 SPI

Topstitching 15-17 SPI 10-12 SPI 10-12 SPI 13-15 SPI 15-17 SPI 8-10 SPI 7-9 SPI

Bartack 22-24 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC

Button 8 SPC 8 SPC 8 SPC 8 SPC 8 SPC 8 SPC 8 SPCButton Hole 22-24 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC 20-22 SPC

053

We follow the Stitch Terminology as recongized by International Organization for Standardization.

Please reference below:

https://www.iso.org/standard/10932.html

http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/glossary/stitch-terminology-glossary/

054

▪

▪ ▪

▪

▪

Straight

Keyhole

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION

Buttonhole Type

Must be Lock Stitch Type #304Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons

Buttonhole Thread

Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified

Button Thread Color

Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density

Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.

For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density

Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.

ChunkyGauge

For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density

Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.

For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density

Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.

ChunkyGauge

Button Hole Standard

Fine Gauge Chunky Gauge

055

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION (cont’d)

▪ ▪ ▪

Quality Points (Women’s only)

Buttons set on wearers left Buttons set on center line unless otherwise specified on VCSMark button position after making button holes

▪

FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified

056

Seam ConstructionFor Boy’s Woven Tops:

Seam Finish Location2N Fell (401) Side Seam

UnderarmArmhole/Sleeve Set

SN/Lock (301) ShoulderHemPocket SetPlacketCollar Cuff

For Girl’s Woven Blouse:

Seam Finish Location5 thread safety (516) Side Seam

UnderarmArmhole/Sleeve SetShoulder

SN/Lock (301) HemPocket SetPlacketCollar Cuff

057