VOLUME 6, NUMBER 8 AUGUST 1982

®

H

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 4 THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE A WI Has Much to Offer

MILTON C. STEVENS 8 AWINEWS A WI Holds Successful Annual Meeting

GERALD G. JAEGER 12 ELECTRICITY FOR THE HOROLOGIST An Improved Adapter for Measuring Current Consumption

STEVEN G. CONOVER 16 CHIME & STRIKE Urgos Chime Movement UW 06061A

ROBERTSENER 20 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING REC Highlights of Annual Meeting

ARCHIE B. PERKINS 22 TECHNICALLY WATCHES The Modern Watchmaker's Lathe, Part XIII

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 26 PICKLE BARREL The Undesirable Part of Jewelry Repair

FRED S. BURCKHARDT 30 THE ROCK QUARRY Born Losers

HENRY B. FRIED 32 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Paul Henri Matthey

ORVILLE R. HAGANS 36 IN THE SPOTLIGHT Symbol of Death in the Art of Horology

ROB ERT ALLIS 48 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN A Very Productive Meeting

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Subscription, $35.00 per year, $4.50 per copy in the United States and $45.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the United States. Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 .

AWi Battery Number System

6

Conclusion of: ''Electricity

for the Horologist''

12

AWi Holds Beginners' Clock Course

34

Highlights of AWi's Annual Meeting

8,9,10,20 DEPARTMENTS

A WI Bench Courses/3 5 Bench Tips/40

New Mernbers/41 Book Review/45

Association News/49 New Products and Literature/SO

News in the Trade/ 52 Classified Ads/54

Advertisers lndex/56 Dates to Remernber/56

Executive and Editorial Offices

AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Harold J. Herman: Editor Maury Norrell: Managing Editor/Advertising Lu Ann Martin: Assistant Editor

Catherine Bell: Art Director Sue Scott: Business Manager

Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Margie M. Brater: Circulation

Technical Editors:

David G. Arnold Otto Benesh James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt Steven G. Conover Joe Crooks Paul Fisk Henry B. Fried Orville R. Hagans Ewell D. Hartman

A WI Officers:

Gerald G. Jaeger Sean C. Monk Robert A. Nelson Archie B. Perkins Marshall F. Richmond Joseph Rugole Leslie L. Smith William 0. Smith, Jr. James L. Tigner Marvin E. Whitney

Marshall F. Richmond. CMW: President Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, CMC: 1st V.

· Otto Benesh, CMC: 2nd V. P. James H. Broughton, CEWS: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treas.

A WI Directors

Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, CMC William Biederman, CMW Robert Bishop Fred S. Burckhardt Jay M. Foreman, Jr. Orville R. Hagans, CMW, CMC, FAWI Ewell D. Hartman, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Sean C. Monk, CMW Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS Howard Opp, CEWS

Robert Allis, CEWS: Affiliate C~apter Director

Robert J. Sener, CMW: Research and Education Council Chairman

Milton C. Stevens: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright ©1982 by the American Watchmakers Institute.

2Horological Times/August 1982

FELLOWS OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

Orville R. Hagans Hamilton E. Pease Marvin E. Whitney Henry B. Fried Josephine F. H-aans

Editorial It is mandatory in some states that when a customer leaves a watch or piece of jewelry for repair, the customer must receive a receipt. Some jewelers, watchmakers, and clockmakers do not give receipts for the merchandise. Perhaps they believe that they are jeopardizing themselves as the loss liability. Perhaps they simply think that if a receipt is requested, the customer does not trust them.

Other jewelers adhere to the g1vmg of receipts. Some even go beyond giving a numbered ticket and write a complete descrip­tion of the article and approximate replacement value. Besides the customer having a copy, a carbon copy is kept by the jeweler, thereby covering himself with his insurance company and his customer.

An example of this procedure is when a 14K ring contammg a 1.0ct size Cubic Zirconia is left for sizing. If the customer signs the receipt, with the description of the stone as a CZ, and the approximate dollar value noted, there can be no question about the goods when it is picked up.

Oftentimes, when a customer brings a gold-filled watch to be repaired, they do not know the current replacement value of that watch. Perhaps it was purchased when gold was at its pre­inflationary price level. The decision of whether or not to have the watch repaired very often depends upon them knowing the escalated replacement value.

Receipts are a protection to you. They are also an honest way to build volume.

On the Front The soothing sound of a splashing waterfal I beckons the weary traveler to this shady nook at Cedar Falls, Ohio.

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President's Message/Marshall Richmond

AWi Has Much To Offer

0 ver the past several years 1 have considered it an honor lo be able

to serve the members of the American Watchmakers Association as a direclor, but in assuming the presidency, 1 feel it .is a trust as well as the greatest honor that ha ever been bestowed upon me. In the coming year, I hope to have the cooperation and assistance of every A WI member through the many active com­mittees working all over this great country of ours and also in Canada.

A.W I has more to offer than any other organization for the \ orking watch­maker and clockmaker. The Horological Times alone is well worth belonging as a member but it is only one small pa1t of the many services offered. Edu cational programs are available to groups any­where within our territory. Individual correspondence courses are offered for in­dividuals in watchmaking, clockmaking, and electronics pertaining to rimepieces. Color slides, 16mm films, and even video-

tape programs are avai lable for group meetings. A library of te hnical bulletins is maintai ned so that a call 011 the holline (513-661-1 FO) or a request by letter will quickly give you the information you may need to complete a repair on an in­dividual watch or clock. A reference and research library is maintianed so that you can get a book on loan to srudy any in­formation you may need. A national ca e marking ystern is maintained ro help you in your rei;;ord keeping and is also available to police agencies for posi­tive identification of a timepiece.

The many 1:ommittecs of A Wl work sep;nately on their individual as ig.nments in order to olve problems gather infom1afion to pass on to the members and make a betrer profession out of watch and cJockmaking. At the first of the new year, after your annual dues are sent in, you receive a member­sh ip packet that contains your current certificate of mcmb r hip , an ldenlifi-

FREE!

cation l'tird. th<' year d~·c.il for our t•mbkm decal. and list. of th,· ,·um.:nt lihr:iry tlVaihibilitics (hoth tcd1nk:il and rt'ferem:i: suppkm •nis to n.~fcr.:nc,· hook. you have prcviou. 1y been sent from A WI Central) . Al o. almo:;t ,·very cu r ;1 l;1rg.c book such us the Warch and Clock111ak('l'S · Buyer 's Guide is sent.

Although these an: most of the direct services offered, many more arc in effect and muny indirL'Ct SL'rvices ur~· being performed every Ju. b A WI Central <1nd the various ·0111 111 ittc l'S.

J t has been pointed out that none o f these scrvi ' t'S urc being. overused :iml some used very liltlc. so I womkr if may­be you members do not r ·~lly kno ho'

(Continued on /Jagc 44)

With Purchase of 150 or more Eveready Cells-WHILE THEY LAST!

4 Horological Times/August 1982

Write or call for FREE brochure and catalog .

. THE E. & J. SWIGART COMPANY 34 WEST SIXTH ST. CINCINNATI, OHIO 45202

Local Phone: (513) 721-1427 Ohio WATS: 1-800-582-1706 • All Other : 1 ·800-543·0309

The One Multi-Rlnction Timing lnstfCln'lent That Does It AIL

L'lnstrument is an appropriate name for the unique new Vibrograf MU-700. For the MU-700 is truly the.ultimate watch tesler. It measures the rate, beat and amplitude of all mechanical watches, as well as the rate of all quartz and electronic watches. And it does it with an accuracy exceeding that of the most advanced quartz watches made.

The superiority of L'lnstrument, with its broad range of capabilities and extreme accuracy, is the result of many years of research ~nd development, combined with the most sophisticated IC (integrated circuit) technology in the-watch repair industry.

But as sophisticated as its circuitry is, L'lnstrument ls simple to operate. Two sensors (microphonic holder/ stands) eliminate the need for probes and special attachments. One sensor is used for all mechanical watches and the other is used for all quartz and electronic watches.

Even monitoring measurements on L'lnstrument is simplified. Six graduated direct reading LED scales (the latest in meter technology) enable "at-a-glance" exact readings to be made. And selection

- ----~ ·-- ... . ... ...

of scales and functions is push-button simple, too. WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU?

For the first time, watchmakers can have at their command a single instrument that performs all watch testing functions formerly requiring up to four different test and/or measurement machines.

Now, we're not about to suggest that you discard your newly purchased or functioning analyzer, gradoscop or timer and replace them with the Vibrograf MU-700.

However, if you don't presently have these instruments to perform the appropriate test functions, wouldn't it be wise to invest in L'lnstrument? The one instrument that does it all.

Or, if your present test equipment is unreliable, inaccurate, or too old to be useful on today's sophisticated watches, Portescap's liberal Trade-In Program can help you upgrade your test facilities with L 'Instrument.

And with Portescap's easy payment plans, there's no need for any large cash outlays. You can select a plan that best suits the needs of your business. FREE IN-STORE DEMONSTRATION

At Portescap, we've updated an old axiom: "One demonstration is worth several thousand words and pictures." We're prepared to set-up a working demonstration on your premises, at your convenience, with no obligation or strings attached. All you have to do is call your local Vibrograf salesman, or (516) 437-8700 now.

Portescap U.S. incabloc®~ VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION <._ i 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, N.Y. 11042

The AWi Battery Number System

the American Watchmakers Institute originated the concept of a two-digit master number system for watch batteries

that could be used by the entire industry. This system, now complete, assigns a master number to all known battery

types and it lists, on the master chart, the interchangeability for all known old and new battery numbers. "

This year an estimated three-fourths of the watches sold in the United States will be electronic. These watches,

along with the battery-powered timepieces already in use, will require regular and repeated battery replacements. The watch battery business has become one of the most depend­able sources of repeat business for the watchmaker and jeweler today, creating valuable store traffic and substantial revenue.

The battery replacement business is not without some problems. Many times it is difficult, if not impossible, to determine the correct battery number because very few manufacturers or distributors mark this information on the watch movement. If the watch is received without a battery, the replacement must be selected by use of a guide that lists watch models, or by measurement.

Replacement guides can be helpful, but many times the timepiece in question has been omitted or is too new to have been included. If there is no listing by make and model, the selection must then be made by assuming the voltage and by measuring to determine the diameter and height. While the cell compartment provides a relatively accurate basis for the diameter, the height can be very difficult to determine­especially in watches where the back of the case is the retainer for the battery.

If the watch is received with a battery in it, there is often no way to know that it is the original or that it is a correct replacement. If the number on the battery is used as a basis to find the replacement by using a cross-reference chart, much time may be lost as the available charts show a limited number of battery systems and frequently list only the current battery numbers in those systems. As a result, many charts must be retained and referred to, in or­der to select the proper battery from the brands that are carried in stock.

Several years ago, the American Watchmakers Insti­tute originated the concept of a two-digit master number sys­tem for watch batteries that could be used by the entire in­dustry. This system, now complete, assigns a master number to all known battery types and it lists, on the master chart, the interchangeability for all known old and new battery numbers. The chart will be revised as often as needed.

Instead of supplying cabinets, A WI can supply

6 Horological Times/August 1982

By Ewell D. Hartman, CMW

self-adhesive labels for each number in the system so that any cabinet can be adapted to it. All batteries, regardless of the brand, can be stocked under these master numbers.

The third, and perhaps the most important part of the system, is the marking of the master number in the cell compartment or on the battery retainer of every electronic watch. This number is identified by marking "AWi" just above it. (Example: AWL) We encourage this marking by the

S24 manufacturers, on new watches, and by the watchmaker on older ones. By referring to this number in the watch, the correct battery 'can be selected from the cabinet without the use of any chart!

The new AWi Battery Number System Chart is in­cluded in this issue of Horological Times. (Inserted in mid­dle of magazine.) It lists seventy battery types and shows interchangeability with twenty number systems. The master numbers are prefixed by a letter designating the chemistry of that particular battery. All low-drain batteries have been assigned even numbers and high-drain batteries have odd numbers. As further aids, the voltage and metric dimensions are listed and all batteries of the same chemistry and drain are grouped together.

A WI has printed this important chart in a durable booklet form that will fit into a bench drawer. This booklet, along with the seventy printed drawer or compartment labels can be obtained by sending $2.00 (per set) to: AWi Battery Number System, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

The A WI Battery Number System has advantages for the entire industry. Watch manufacturers and distributors can reduce costly comebacks and be assured of a better image as a result of correct battery replacements in their products. Battery suppliers can maintain a better inventory control by having a single number system, regardless of the number of brands they wish to stock. Watchmakers and jewelry stores will save tremendous amounts of time. They will need to retain only one chart, will never need to relabel their battery cabinet, and will be able to select a replacement battery by referring only to the AWi number in the cell com­partment of the watch. See Centerfold for Your Free Guide! UCil3

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BATTERN'S SELF PICKLING HARD SOLDERING FLUX - Makes hard so ldering as easy as soft soldering. A flux for use on gold, silver, platinum and other metals with high melting points. Pre· se rves temp• r and color of metal. Adh esive quali­ties of this liquid flux hold so lder in place.

No Size Ship. Wgt. · -------------51-853 3 oz. 4oz. $ 1. 7 5

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AWi News/Mi I ton C. Stevens

AWi Holds Successful An.n.ual Meetin.g

T he annual meetings of the American Watchmakers Institute were held at the Drawbridge Inn and Con­

vention Center in Fort Mitchell, Kentucky (near the Greater Cincinnati, Ohio Airport) the week of June 21 through June 27.

The Research and Education Council (REC) kicked off the activities with an informative in-service program held June 21-24. These sessions were restricted to watch and clock repair instructors who teach in REC member schools. Experts from across the nation were on hand to update the instructors on the latest technical developments in watch/clock­making. Harold Herman, Chairman of the Education , Library and Museum Trust (ELM Trust) directed the annual trustrees meeting on June 24. The meeting was held at the AWi Central building to allow the members to inspect the A WI Museum displays which now occupy the entire second floor of the building. On June 25, Robert Allis directed a productive

Marshall Richmond, new ly elected president of the American Watchmak ers In­stitute.

Affiliate Chapter meeting. Members from approximately 30 chapters were in attendance.

The Board of Directors meeting concluded the business program on June 26 and 2 7. Marshall Richmond, CMW, of Milan , Indiana was elected to the President's of­fice for a one-year term. Other officers include Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D, CMW, CMC, Phoenix, Arizona, First Vice-Presi­dent ; Otto Benesh, CMC, Cape Coral, Florida, Second Vice­President; James H. Broughton, CEWS, Columbus, Ohio, Secretary; and Marvin Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI, Alexan­dria, Virginia, Treasurer. Newly elected members of the Board of Directors are : Joseph G. Baier, Phoenix, Arizona; William Biederman, La Cross, Wisconsin ; James H. Broughton, Colum­bus, Ohio; Fred S. Burckhardt, Ft. Worth, Texas; and Marshall F. Richmond, Milan, Indiana.

Highlights of this important occasion are presented pictorially on the following pages.

Newly elected directors of AWi (L to R) Joseph Baier, James Broughton, Installing Official-Robert Phillip, Marshall Richmond, William Biederman, and Fred Burckhardt.

8Horological Times/August 1982

1982 officers of the American Watchmakers Institute (L to R): Marvin Whitney, Treasurer; James Broughton, Secretary; Installing official, Robert Phillip; Mar­shall Richmond, President; Joseph Baier, 1st Vice-President; and Otto Benesh, 2nd Vice-President.

Robert Allis· (right), being installed as Affiliate Chapter Director by Robert Phillip (left).

In The Spotlight

The President's Reception. President "Jingle" Joe Crooks (left) conversing with Charles Barnes (right) of the Michi­gan Watchmakers Guild.

Members of the AWi Chapter No. 102 of the National Watch and Clock Collectors Association assembled in Cincinnati, Ohio during the annual meeting of the American Watchmakers Institute.

August 1982/Horologi.cal Times 9

(Above) The honorary Lifetime Membership award is being presented to Joe Crooks (left), retiring president by Robert Phillip (right).

HONOR AWARDS

(Below)Robert Phillip (left) presents awards to retiring directors Joe Crooks (right) and Dorothy Aderman (accepted by Charles Bates (middle), president of Florida Watchmakers Association).

(Left) Representing the Horological Association of California, Jerry Vilicich (right) presents a videotape on the Atmos Clock to Robert Nelson (left), V isual Aids Committee chairman.

(Below) Albert Brehl (left) and Wilbur Ludwig (center) present­ing the Dick Lang award for the highest score achieved on the Certified Master Watchmaker examination . Accepting the award for Bronwyn Molloy is Robert Leach (right).

10 Horological Times/August 1982

CLARIFICATION

In the May 1982 issue of the Horological Times, there appeared the article, "Seth Thomas Pillar and Scroll-Top Clock," by Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, CMC. The following changes should be made to the text:

Page 30, paragraph 2-The wood used usually was cherry for the wheels, laurel for the arbors and pinions, and oak for the plates. But mahogany, applewood, and some other woods were sometimes selected.

Page 31, first sentence-The fan has four blades, and the pinion has only four leaves.

Page 32, center column, last paragraph-When the clock was received for restoration, the pendulum bob, as well as the suspension rod with spring, were missing.

The Editor

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Seiko Wittnauer Ebauches

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Main Springs Pkg. of 100

Value to Your Cost $250. steel-$9.95

alloy-$24.95

1 00 Timex parts Value Your Cost $150. $9.95 Each pkg. contains: Staff, Stems, wheels, escapement parts, springs, hands & Screws.

Also Entire inventory of : Watch Crystals

Hands Shock Parts

Cronograph Parts Watch Crowns All or Part at

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1 00 assorted Automatic parts

Value Your Cost $500. $75.00

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CilCECfAllCllfY fo, The IHlotoloqist ©1sa2

An Improved Adapter

For Mea6urinq Current Con6umption By

Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS and

E. F. Rice, CET

The simple adapter for measuring current-consumption with an ordinary microammeter (described in Horo­

logical Times, September 1978) has been built by a large number of watchmakers. Those who have taken the A WI correspondence course, "Micro-Electronics for Horologists," are especially familiar with its applications.

The improved version described here, overcomes the annoying inconvenience of frequently having the meter needle peg against the stop at maximum reading when the adapter is initially connected to a watch. This new version also provides a new test, which is now recommended by manufacturers for checking the newer electronic watches. That is an adjustable battery voltage which can be reduced to determine if the watch will start and run on reduced battery voltage. This adapter allows you to read the applied voltage on your meter as it is reduced. A watch in good condition should start and run at 80% of full battery voltage.

Figure I shows the completed unit with its three binding posts at the top for connection to the meter and two binding posts at the bottom for connection leads to the watch. On the left side is a clip to hold a watch battery during consumption tests. It was fashioned from a strip of a clock mainspring and a flat copper disc. The steel strip is bent, creating tension in order to clamp the battery on top of the copper disc. It is secured with a machine screw from the top. Inside the box, a wire connects to the washer and nut on the machine screw.

The disc is cemented to the top of the plastic box. There is a hole drilled in the box under the disc to allow connection of a wire from beneath. We soldered the wire on the bottom of the disc and passed it through the hole before cementing the disc in place. On the right side just below the word "OFF," you can see the knob for the battery voltage control. Inside the box are two AA penlight cells connected in series to provide 3 volts maximum, adjustable down to zero.

To test a watch for operation under reduced battery voltage, simply connect your voltmeter to the center and right-hand binding posts at the top of the box. They are marked "E/OUT ," (meaning voltage output). The negative meter lead goes to the center post. Now set the toggle switch, located in the center of the box next to the copper disc, to the "E" position. At the bottom of the box the right­band binding post is red, and the left one is black. Remove the original watch battery, and connect the red post to the positive battery connection in the battery nest of the watch. Connect the black post to the negative battery connection in

12Horological Times/August 1982

the watch. Turn the battery voltage control knob clockwise from the off position, and from the meter, read the amount of voltage being applied to the watch. By observing the mini­mum voltage which allows the watch to operate, the general condition can be determined.

Checking consumption is just as easy. And this is where the second innovation of this adapter comes in.

Turn the voltage adjustment control to "OFF," which disconnects the internal 3-volt source, and set the toggle switch to "A." Be sure the meter is set on the appro­priate microammeter scale. Connect the meter to the center and left-hand binding posts at the top of the box. The nega­tive meter lead goes on the left, positive on the center. Place the proper watch battery in the clip with the negative side up. Now, when you connect the black post at the bottom of the box to the negative connection in the battery nest and the red one to the positive connection, as before, the Figure 1. The completed adapter

Figure 2

Clip for Watch Battery

---+

consumption can be read on the meter.

Left Post

J_ Push

Button

+ 470 MFD Capacitor

Potentiometer

Reading consumption with other adapters is a bit tricky because of the action of the 470 MFD capacitor con­nected to the meter terminals. The purpose of the capacitor is to average out the pulses of current drawn by the watch, so the meter needle shows a steady value, rather than jumping up and down with each "beat" of the electronic circuits. The capacitor acts like a storage tank, collecting electrons when the watch is drawing current and releasing them through the meter between pulses. The meter needle then remains steady at a value which is really the equivalent DC current, corresponding to the value given by the manufacturer in the technical manual.

The problem with other adapters is that the capaci­tor sometimes causes the needle to go to full scale when the leads initially touch the watch connections. It is then neces­sary to spend a few minutes removing and reconnecting the leads to the watch and changing scales on the meter until the capacitor begins to do its job. The adapter described here has a special push button which discharges the capacitor instantly and makes a consumption reading available at once. The push button is located just under the label "E/OUT," near the top of the box. If the meter goes to full scale when the l;ads are first connected in the watch, a touch of the button alleviates the problem.

The electronic schematic drawing of the adaptor

Switch On Control

Right Post

Diode

3 Volts

+

Black Post(-) To Watch

Red Post(+) To Watch

circuit in Figure 2 presents no problem if you have been study­ing electronic watches. Here is a brief description of how the adapter works: The two penlight cells contained in the adapter box are connected in series, providing 3 volts. The negative end of this 3-volt source is connected through a switch to the 5000 ohm potentiometer (adjustable resistor). The switch is mounted on the potentiometer and turns off when the control knob is turned to full left. The switch connects the battery to the resistor as soon as the knob is turned to the right. Once the resistance is connected in the circuit, electrons flow from the negative battery terminal through the resistor and back to the positive battery terminal. Thus, the 3 volts appear across the resistance. The sliding contact of the potenti­ometer (indicated by an arrow on the resistance) selects the amount of voltage to be tapped off and applied to the watch. When the slider is at the right, 3 volts are applied; and as it moves to the left, additional resistance is placed between the battery and the watch, reducing the watch voltage. In elec­tronics this kind of a circuit is called a "voltage divider." When the voltmeter is connected to the center and right binding posts at the top of the box, it reads voltage at the watch.

The other switch on the left side of the potenti­ometer in the schematic drawing is the toggle switch. This is the switch marked "A" and "E" in Figure 1. "A" is amperage and "E" is voltage. In order to remove the voltage divider from

August 1982/Horological Times 13

the circuit when checking consumption, both switches must be open. This means the potentiometer is turned to "OFF," and the toggle switch is set on "A." In this state the only voltage applied to the watch comes from the watch battery mounted in the clip. Electrons flow from the negative terminal of the watch battery upwards, through the meter, through the watch, and return to the positive side of the watch battery. The meter, now connected to the left and center posts, in­dicates the rate of current flow called "consumption."

The 4 70 MFD capacitor, connected across the meter terminals when reading consumption, smooths out the pulses of current drawn by the watch. The push button is connected directly across the capacitor to discharge the stored energy whenever this energy causes the meter to deflect to maximum and stay there . Note that the terminals of the capacitor are marked+ (positive) and - (negative). It is very important that the +(positive) side of the capacitor is connected to the center binding post and the - (negative) side is connected to the screw holding the brass clip. The capacitor will not work if it is connected backwards, or if the watch battery is inserted backwards.

Before installing the toggle switch, set it in the off position. This is done by setting your ohmmeter on the RXlO scale and connecting it to terminals of the switch while moving the toggle lever to the position which shows infinite resistance (no deflection of the needle). When you in­stall the switch, make sure that the lever points to the letter "A" on the box.

The diode, shown in Figure 2, protects against short­ing out the watch battery in the clip if the "A-E" toggle switch is left in the "E" position while checking consumption. The diode allows electrons to flow from the - (negative) side of the 3-volt battery when that source is in use, but it prevents electrons from flowing through it when they come from the watch battery. The principle of operation of the diode is that it conducts electrons in one direction only, against the arrow. Remembering that electrons always must leave the - (negative) terminal of a battery, the path can be traced from the - (negative), 3-volt terminal through a section of the potentiometer, through the diode (against the arrow), out to the watch, and returning to the + (positive), 3-volt ter­minal.

If you trace from the negative terminal of the watch battery through the meter, you will find that you cannot return to the positive terminal of the watch battery through the diode, since it does not conduct electrons in this direction. If the diode were replaced by a piece of wire, electrons would return to the watch battery if the toggle switch were accident­ly closed. This would be what is called a "short circuit," because the electrons do not pass through the watch. Such a condition would burn out the watch battery and possibly the meter.

Any diode will work in this circuit, but make sure you don't connect it backwards. Markings on the diode will identify the ends.

Construction of this adapter requires only a few hours; there are no critical parts or dimensions. The parts list gives Radio Shack parts numbers for convenience, but a wide range of substitutions is possible. The total cost is around $16.00 if everything is bought.

Start by removing the bottom of the plastic box which is secured by screws. Then drill the necessary holes, and mo.unt all the par.ts on the top. Don't forget to attach a wire to the bottom of the copper disc (which is part of the watch battery clip assembly) before cementing it in place.

14 Horological Times/August 1982

Figure 3. Parts placement in the box.

Figure 3 will give you an idea of the placement of parts and connecting wires. Be sure the polarity of the 4 70 MFD capacitor is correct, and also double check the diode leads for proper orientation. The parts we used were clearly marked as shown in Figure 3.

The battery holder for the penlight cells is shown re­moved from the box in Figure 3. We wrapped it in a piece of padded packing material and tucked it in the box before the bottom was replaced. It is very important to get the AA cells in the holder, so they will be connected in series - that is so the negative end of one is connected to the positive end of the other. Also, be sure you know which lead is positive when you solder the wires from the battery holder. One way to check is to measure the battery voltage on the leads with the voltmeter. If you get the positive meter lead on the positive battery lead and the negative meter lead on the negative battery lead, the meter will read 3 volts. If the meter needle tries to move to the left below zero, you have the battery leads reversed. If the meter reads 1.5 volts, you have the leads right, but one battery is in backwards.

Complete instructions have been given for the con­struction of a testing box, and the past five issues have directed the method of testing modern quartz movements. With this information, most watches of this type will be able to be tested and serviced.

PARTS LIST

Radio Shack part numbers are given but equivalent items are available from any supplier.

Push-button switch normal open type . ......... 275 1571 4% x 2% x rn plastic box ... ............ ... 270 222 Battery holder for 2 - AA cells ..... .... .. . .. . 270 382 Clip and leads to fit battery holder . . . .. . .... . .. 270 325 470 MFD axial type capacitor ..... . . 2721018 or 2721046 5000 ohm potentiometer . .. ... . . .... . .... 2711714 Switch for potentiometer, SPST type . . . .... . . • 271 1740 Toggle swtich, SPST type . .... . . . .. . ....... 275 324 5 insulated binding posts . . .... . . . .. . ...... . 274 661 2 -AA penlight cells ... .. ... . . . 23 468 (Eveready - 915) Knob for % in. shaft .......... . .......... 274 423 Diode 1 N34 germanium ... .. ..... .. . .. . .. 276 1123

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By Steven G. Conover

Urgos Chime Movement UW 06061.K

A modern chime movement by Urgos is our subject this month. Urgos manufactures grandfather, wall, and

mantel clock movements, many of which are used by Ameri-can clock companies. Recently, I surveyed the major U.S. companies in the industry and found Urgos movements present in a number of the grandfather models by Ridgeway, Howard Miller, Colonial, and Hamilton. The Urgos movement featured in this article is from a Howard Miller wall clock, Model 2732, which dates from the early l 970's.

Figure 1 shows the wall clock which is about 39 inches tall. It is marked "Barwick," a Howard Miller trademark, on the dial. At first glance the clock appears to be a two­weight striking clock. But these two-weight shells are only decorative. The movement is actually a spring-driven chime clock with three gear trains. Note the three winding holes in the dial. Figures 2, 3, 6, and 7 are views of the movement. Figures 4 and 5 are drawings of the front movement which serve to identify the major chime and strike parts for our dis-cussion.

A current Urgos catalog shows the movement to be of the UW 06 series. This series includes variations on the same basic chime movement with plates 118mm high and llOmm wide. Models with different pendulum lengths, or a floating balance escapement, and several hammer arrangements and chime melodies are available. Our Model UW 06061A (the movement is marked UW 6/61 A) has Westminister chimes, five bottom mounted hammers, and a pendulum length of

Figure 1. Howard Miller Model 2732

Figure 2. Movement front

16 Horological Times/August 1982

22 in. from the center arbor to the center of the bob. Measuring the pendulum length this way is useful to the clock case de­signer. The prefix UW in Urgos numbers means Uhrwerk (clock movement).

To overhaul the Urgos movement properly, you should disassemble it completely. This means removing the three mainsprings from the barrels for inspection and cleaning, in addition to separating the plates and taking out all the gears and arbors. First of all, remove the suspension spring and pendulum leader to avoid damaging them. Next, let down the mainsprings completely. Remove the click wheels and their brackets. The winding arbors are then pulled straight out of the movement, toward the front. You will see that a squared portion on the winding arbor fits into a corresponding shape in the barrel arbor inside the barrel. During operation, it is the click wheel and bracket which hold the winding arbor in the clock. It is easiest to remove the time or chime barrel first and the strike barrel last. This is because the strike barrel will not come out through the side. It must come through the bottom center, after the time barrel. The three winding arbors are the same, as are the click wheels. The time and strike barrels appear to be identical, but it is just as well to mark one of them, including the mainspring. The chime barrel and spring are much larger. Check the winding parts, barrels, and springs for damage, and set them aside for cleaning.

Continue with disassembly. Take off the rack (24), hour wheel (23), minute wheel (20), silencer lever (18), and strike lock piece (1). Loosen the set screw (13) and remove the chime-strike lever (6) through the front. The chime locking lever (9) and chime correction lever (10) are mounted on the arbor attached to the chime-strike lever, and can be removed when the arbor is pulled out. On this movement, there is a (Continued on page 18)

Figure 3. Movement rear

*©STEVEN G. CONOVER 1982

6 11 12

13

1 16

F igure 4

21

3 2 9 1. Strike lock piece 2. Strike warning wheel

10 11 12 3. Strike warning pin 4. Gathering pin & cam 5. Strike warning lever 6. Chime-strike lever 7. Chime fourth wheel 8. Chime lock pin 9. Chime locking lever

10. Chime correction lever 11. Chime warning wheel 12. Chime warning pin 13. Set screw 14. Chime correction arm 14 15. Chime correction cam 16. Locking plate 17. Chime warning lever 18. Silencef lever 19. Chime lift lever 20. Minute wheel 21. Snail 22. Star cam 23. Hour wheel 24. Rack Figure 5

August 1982/Horological Times 17

CHIME AND STRIKE (Continued from page 16)

thin brass washer between parts (9) and (10). There is another part to remember; a coiled tension spring acting on the chime­strike lever. Remove the chime lift lever (19), noting the fact that there is a smaller coiled tension spring under it. After taking off the locking plate (16), the front of the movement should be clear except for the gathering pin and cam (4). I favor leaving this part in place unless there is a compelling reason, such as a worn pivot hole, for removing it. From the rear of the movement, take off the verge assembly, the large chime drive gear , and the three gears under it. Remove the strike hammer arm and the lift wire. These parts can be seen in Figure 3.

Now you are down to the bare movement. Before separating the plates, it seems a good idea to mark the four movement brackets on our model, remove them, and reinstall the riuts . Then it is possible to take off the rear pillar nuts and pull off the rear plate. The pillars can stay attached to the front plate without the brackets in the way. The move­ment will be easier to assemble , because the center arbor and strike fourth wheel stay with the front plate. All the arbors will go back into the front plate first during reassembly, then the rear plate goes on. The only gears which you need to mark for identification at the disassembly stage are the second wheels in the time and strike trains (the next gears up from the barrels). All the other gears should be easy to put back in later. Now remove the rear movement plate carefully, and then take out the gears along with the chime drum or pin barrel , the five hammers , the hammer shaft, and the lower strike hammer lift arm. Mark the hammers so you can get them back in the same order. It is probably a good idea to remove the five hammer heads rather than risk them in a cleaning solution. Clean the disassembled movement thoroughly, rinse, and dry. Bushings, of course, must be installed if necessary.

Reassembly is next. We have overhauled nine chime movements so far in this series, and I think you will be able to understand the operation of the Urgos chime and strike trains through careful reassembly. Look for the mechanisms of locking and unlocking, counting, warning, and chime sequence correction. Remembering where you have seen similar features before is always helpful. In a way, we are fortunate that there are so many designs and variations around to maintain our interest.

To begin, load all the arbors into the front plate . Some of the pivots are very fine, so be careful not to bend them. Install the chime drum with the longer pivot pointing

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18Horological Times/August 1982

toward the rear of the movement. The hammer shaft goes in with the brass collar toward the front of the movement. Add the five hammers in proper order , and the lower hammer lift arm. Put on the rear plate and fit all the pivots into their holes . Screw on the pillar nuts finger tight only.

Adjust the strike train first. Install the strike lock piece (1) on the front of the movement , and the upper ham­mer lift arm, which engages the hammer lifting star on the strike third wheel, on the rear of the movement. Move the gears with finger pressure, with the fly moving counterclock­wise. If you unlock the strike train, it will turn through one strike hammer blow and then lock again. You will notice that the strike train locks on the front of the movement, as the strike lock piece comes to rest against the notch in the cam ( 4 ). When the train locks, the hammer lift arm must be clear of the hammer lifting star. This is necessary to avoid hammers "on the rise" at the end of the hour strike. If adjustment is required, separate the plates just enough to change the mesh of the third wheel and the next higher pinion.

Before going further, install the chime-strike lever (6) . Do not forget the tension spring. You must get the chime correction lever (10) and chime correction arm (14) in posi­tion before inserting the arbor. It may seem to be a puzzle to fit them into place. The chime correction arm goes in front of the chime warning wheel (11) and the chime correc­tion lever goes behind the same wheel. The chime correction lever must have access to the chime lock pin (8). Start the long (Continued on page 38)

Figure 6. Closeup of front movement parts.

... ~ / .. ~. ~ ......... .... ~ ~ ,'•_......,. ... . . . ,.

~ ""

Figure 7. Rear view showing the chime locking lever and chime correction lever next to the chime fly which is on the left.

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Scholastically Speaking/Robert Sener

REC Highlights of Annual Meeting

A four-day program of workshops, seminars and business discussions was presented by the Research and Education

Council (REC) during the annual AWi meeting June 21-24. Robert Sener, Lancaster, Pennsylvania was elected chairman for the coming year. He succeeds Thomas Imai of Spokane, Washington. Horological Times' cameraman recorded the REC activities which are presented on the following page.

Jacques Reymond, Watchmakers of Switzerlana

Henry Frystak, Bulova Watch Co.

Lou Zanoni, Zantech, Inc.

I

Newly elected officers of the REC Committee are (L to R) Elmer Leighton, Vice-Chairman; Robert Sener, Chairman; and Alice Carpenter, Secretary.

Newly elected members of the REC Committee are (L to R) Elmer Leighton, Robert Sener, Alice Carpenter, Archie Perkins, and George Lewis.

Sandy Roth, ADM I, Inc.

Kazuo Nagasawa, Jack Schecter, and Scott Chou, Seiko Watch Co.

20 Horological Times/August 1982

Gene Kelton, Citizen Watch Co.

PHOTOS TAKEN DURING THE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION

COUNCIL MEETING

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180° step-angle • Center fixation permits universal use.

All hands and fittings provided . • Various shaft lengths : '/, ,", 'h '', %".

31•", and 'la" • Sweep second hand • Self-starting and service-free

STANDARD & HIGH TORQUE QUARTZ MOVEMENTS

•Movement size: 2'/a" x 2% " x 1'1." • 1 year service on a single alkaline

"C" cell • Center fixation permits universal use • 12 and 24-hour movements available • Self-starting and service-free • Kienzle transducer system-Bipolar,

180° step-angle

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MOVEMENTS

• Available with or without bell (Passing Strike)

• Movement size: 4'/,," x 2'l," x 11/2"

• Shaft: 3/4 " or 'l." • Pendulums in 8", 9" ,

10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 21" lengths . Bob diameter 2%" and 23/4"

• Separate magnet coil drives pendulum independently

• All hands and fittings furnished

•Self-starting and service-free

TECHNICAL SUPERIORITY

RESULTING FROM

CONTINUING RESEARCH

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• Ready-to-insert round movements • Availaple in 3", 3'/, ", and 4" dial diameters •Movement size 2'/."diameter, %" depth •Complete with brass bezel , dial , hands,

and crystal • Round movements only available in 'la" and

'/," shaft length • Self-starting and service-free

MINI-PENDULUM MOVEMENTS WITH PASSING STRIKE

• Separate magnet coil drives pendulum independently

• Movement Size: 4'/,," x 2'/a" x 1112" Shaft Size: 'l,."

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Technically

WATCHES © 1982

By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC (All rights reserved by the author)

The Modern Watchmaker's Lathe © 1982-

I n continuing with the discussion of the swing tailstock (jeweling

rest), the following will be discussed: the different styles of tool holders, the different styles of cutters , and the steps needed in using the device.

As stated before, when more than one operation is to be performed with a swing tailstock, then more than one tailstock spindle should be available. There should be a separate spindle for each operation. Each spindle should have its own stop device, and each spindle should have its own cutter for a specific operation. Figure 1 shows five tai!stock spindles, each one having a different cutter for a specific operation. All except one of these spindles has its own stop device.

Figure 2 shows a close-up view of some of the different cutters in the ends of the tailstock spindles. View A shows an outside cutter used to cut down the outside diameter of a jewel setting. This cutter has a taper shank which fits the tapered hole in the end of the tailstock spindle. View B shows an inside cutter which can be used to cut the seat for a jewel, or it can be used to bore out the hole in a wheel to fit its pinion. This cutter has a straight

Figure 1

22 Horologjcal Times/August 1982

Part XIII

shank which fits into a holder having a tapered shank to fit the tailstock spindle. The hole in the holder for the cutter is drilled off-center, and the cutter is held in the holder with a set screw. View C shows a special cutter which is used to strip out the top end of a jewel setting. This cutter has a tapered shank to fit the spindle. View D shows an in­side cutter which has a straight shank, and it is fitted to an off-center holder which has a tapered shank to fit the hole in the spindle. The cutter is held in the holder with a set screw_ View E shows another inside cutter with a tapered shank which fits the hole in the tailstock spindle.

When making cutters, it is im­portant to remember that the edge of the cutter which does the cutting must be on center with the center of the tail­stock spindle ; also, the top of the cutter must be on center with the tailstock spindle.

Figure 3 shows cutters which are made onto taper shanks that fit the tailstock spindle. View A shows a drill. View B shows an inside cutter or jewel seating tool. View C shows an outside cutter which is used to cut a jewel setting down in diameter, or it can be used to

Figure 2

cut a shoulder on the jewel setting. It will be noted that the inside cutter shown at B is made so that the body of the cutter is to the left of the center line when it is faced from its end. The outside cutter shown at C is made so the body of the cutter is to the right of the center line. This leaves their cutting edges on center with the tailstock spindle. Cutters such as these which fit directly in the spindle are more difficult to make than other types that fit into holders. Also, when they become broken or damaged, more work is required to re­make them compared to cutters which fit into special holders.

Figure 4 shows three special holders for drills and cutters. These holders have tapered shanks which fit the tapered holes in the tailstock spindles. A hole has been drilled on center in the ends of these holders. The cutters have round shanks which fit the hole in the holder. A set screw is used to hold the cutter tightly. View A shows a drill in its holder. The hole in the holder can be of a size to accommodate standard pivot drills or the drills can be made special. View B shows an inside cutter in its holder, and View C shows an outside cutter. These cutters are easy to make

{ ( A ~ ,, --.-irJl':"1"l::I 8

c

Figure 3

since they are made from round drill rod.

To make one of the cutters shown in Figure 4, the stock is filed or ground almost to center on one side for about a 4.00mm distance from its end, forming a flat face. Then it is filed or ground almost to center at a 90° angle to the first face. Now the cutter is hard­ened and tempered to a pale straw color. The cutter is now ground on a fine India wheel so the two faces are

Figure 5

OD '

A

OD 8

c

Figure 4

flat, straight, and exactly to center. To assure that the cutter has been ground eirnctly to center, first measure the diam­eter of the rod that the cutter is being made from. Then as the cutter is being ground, it can be measured and, when the measurement is exactly one-half of the rod diameter, the cutting edge will be on center. Then grind the relief on the side and end of the cutter, being careful not to disturb the width of the top face of the cutter. The relief on the

A

B

J E

c --

lllLnJlll

([)

cutter is usually about 10° to 15°. NOTE: The better the finish on the cutter, the smoother it will cut. Also, the cutter is likely to hold up better, especially if it is hardened and tempered correctly.

Figure 5 shows three tool holders which have the hole for the cutter drilled off-center. The hole is drilled the diameter for the cutter stock and the center for the hole is off-center exactly the radius of the cutter stock. This places the edge of the cutter exactly

OD

August 1982/Horological Times 23

A

b 1111111 111111

B

a Jl

Figure 6

on center with the holder. This holder allows for adjustability on the height of the cutter. -The same holder can be used for either an inside cutter or an outside cutter. View A shows an outside cutter fitted to one of the holders. View B shows an inside cutter mounted into another holder. It should be noted that the holder has been turned 180° from its position in View A for holding an inside cutter. To vary the height of the cutter, the tailstock spindle can be turned clockwise or counterclockwise slightly, then the cutter is turned in its holder to level the top of the cutter. View C, Figure 5 shows one of the off­center holders fitted with a jewel bezel burnisher. Notice that the holder is used in the same position as it is for the in­side cutter shown in View B. This allows the point of the bezel burnisher to be on center with the tailstock spindle. The holder is also used in this same position when using a bezel groove cutter.

A most ingenious tool holder for the swing tailstock is shown in Figure 6. This holder was made by the W.D. Clement Lathe Company in Waltham, Massachusetts and used with their spe­cial swing tailstock. This special tool

24 Horological Times/August 1982

I

holder fits into the tapered hole in the tailstock spindle. It is designed to hold two cutters which can be swung into position alternately to do two different operations. View A, Figure 6 shows a top view of the holder and View B shows a side view. The cutter shown at "a," View A is an inside type cutter which is used to cut the seat for a jewel, or it can be used as a boring tool for enlarging the hole in a wheel for its pinion. The cutter shown at "b," View A is an outside cutter which can be used to cut down the diameter of a jewel setting or to cut the shoulder on the setting. This cutter can also be used to face the end of the setting flat. When cutter "a" is in position to be used, stop arm "c" is against stop screw "d." When cutter "b" is swung into position, then stop arm "e" will be against stop screw "f." Stop screws "d" and "f" can be adjusted so the cutting edge can be brought exactly on center with the tailstock spindle. The cutters are held in · a specially milled channel with a screw. These channels are the same width as the cutters. The channels are sloped so the back end of the channel is deeper than the front end. This is to allow the height of the end of the cutter

to be adjusted so it is on center with the lathe center. This adjustment is gotten by the use of screw "a," View B in Figure 6. This screw comes against the under side of the back end of the cutter which allows the back end of the cutter to be raised or lowered causing the cutting end of the cutter to be brought on center. The frame that the cutters are mounted into is bound into position by a binding screw shown at "b," View B. The holes in the binding screw shown at "c," View B are used to tighten the binding screw by placing a small steel rod in the holes to get more leverage than would be gotten by turning the head of the screw with the thumb and fingers.

To use the swing tailstock to set watch jewels, assuming that a hole has already been drilled through the rod to be used to set the jewels into, first select the seating tool and place it into the end of the tailstock spindle. Then a sharp true male center is placed into the lathe headstock spindle. Now the swing arm of the tailstock is adjusted so the corner of the cutting edge of the seating tool is centered with the male center in the headstock. See Figure 7. With the cutter still centered, adjust finger Number 1 of the caliper (shown in Figure 8) against (Continued on page 42)

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Our calibers are intelligently conceived. They are equipped with interchangeable parts, most of which can be used in other movements as well - even those that do not belong to the same family of calibers.

These parts are itemized in the two new Interchangeability System Catalogues of Ebauches SA.

Even more complete, more exact and easier-to-use, they are continually updated and expanded. These two new catalogues now replace the interchangeability card file. This system will help you rationalize your stock of spare parts, reduce your costs substantially, and control your inventories quickly and accu­rately.

But our services don't end there:

Replacement movements Our formula of replacement movements applies to all of our electronic calibers. So you can substantially reduce repair time.

Technical information In addition to the Interchangeability Cata­logues, we also have the complete Catalogue of Ebauches SA calibres and the horological Dictionary in eight languages, as well as data sheets and maintenance manual.s covering most of our products.

Technical training Our training courses are intended for ever­yone who wants to stay up-to-date on the latest developments, or complete his train­ing. The programs are available on request.

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

The Undesirable Part Of Jewelry Repair

T he jewelry repair business is no different than any business, and there are many undesirable aspects to it.

Come backs, complaints, dissatisfied customers, or as some term it "warranties" are not really desirable. Some of the repairs that are brought to us are not really desirable because of the poor materials used or poor workmanship in the manu­facture of items such as costume jewelry repairs, pewter or die cast repairs, and even items of rusted steel. To a fine craftsman working with precious metals and precious and semi­precious stones, these repairs may be considered undesirable, but we must face the fact that we are in the business of offering a unique service to the buying public and making a living while performing this service. Let's be realistic about the undesirables and make as much per hour working on them as when handcrafting a platinum-diamond ring. I have heard it said that one person's junk can well be another's treasure. When approached with a piece of junk, if it can be restored to its original condition so it will be a satisfactorily finished job, figure a profitable estimate, and quote a price to restore it. If in your judgement it is impossible to make a satisfactory repair, then refuse to accept it. Remember that your repu­tation is built on making repairs - not by turning away work. Rather than damage this fine reputation that has taken years to build, de not accept work that you are not confident you can do satisfactorily. Most "junk" jobs can be disposed of by an explanation of why it would be difficult or impossible to repair and the cost could make it prohibitive, but as a last resort, a refusal is better than damage to your reputation by turning out a poor quality repair even though it is no fault of your own.

A return job by whatever name it may be called is considered by myself as a come back. From my own exper­ience, only about 10% of all come backs are the fault of the workman and the other 90% are the fault of the customer or the article itself. In handling these situations, much tact is required and most customers can be sent away happy or at least satisfied by analyzing the problem and making any adjustment necessary. In twenty-five years operating a retail jewelry store, most of the come backs were from new goods that were sold rather than from the repair department. Prac­tically all of these services under warranty were taken care of by myself, and less than 1 % were sent back to the manufacturer for adjustment. Servicing warranties is costly in time and material, so the cost must be included in the price structure of the merchandise and repairs.

One of the most common complaints that a jeweler gets is finger rings (ladies) that cause a skin rash around the rings, or necklaces that turn the neck black, blue, or green. Many jewelers jump at this opportunity to sell a remount

26 Horological Times/August 1982

job or a solid gold chain and in most cases it is justified, but there are other considerations. One customer came into my store complaining that her platinum rings were causing a rash around her finger under the rings. She further stated that when her diamonds were mounted in yellow gold, they did the same thing and the jeweler she went to recommended changing the mountings to white gold, which she agreed to do. The situation repeated with white gold, so the jeweler recom­mended remounting them again to platinum. By the time she came to me she had about exhausted her patience as well as her bankroll. I put the rings under a loupe and carefully observed the crevices under the stone. They were full of what appeared to be the residue of soap or detergent. I cleaned the rings and removed all foreign material, polished them, and showed her how to keep them clean with a brush and jewelry cleaning solution. I asked her to report how she was in thirty days. When she reported back in thirty days, the rash had cleared up and she had been cleaning her rings weekly. It appears that what was happening to her was that her natural body secretions caused a chemical reaction with the soap or detergent residue in the rings, resulting in a chemical burn.

We have found from experience that every indi­vidual's body chemistry differs and likewise body secretions (perspiration) differ in each person, so that some people will have black appear around their neck when wearing a silver chain. Very few people have problems with stainless steel, although I have observed some stainless steel watch cases that have been pitted deeply from contact with body secretions. Gold-filled jewelry is almost tarnish proof, until some of the gold is worn through to the base metal. This base metal is usually a brass or nickel silver alloy and will tarnish with most anyone's perspiration. When these problems were brought to me and they appeared to be a costly correction for the cus­tomer, I always recommended that they confer with a physi­cian, because the only sure way to find answers in physical problems is through laboratory tests. These are not always conclusive and are very costly.

With an expert jewelry repairman working in a retail store, he must deal directly with the customers. One big advantage retail jewelers have over the discount or department stores is the personal service they are able to give to their cus­tomers through qualified personnel. When a good reputation is built, customers come in with their problems. Many may be un­desirable to handle, but often a good, profitable sale, repair, or alteration will result. In addition, there is always that good feeling of giving satisfaction to a customer with a problem.

One example of these undesirable jobs is when a recently purchased gold ring is brought in for repair that has developed pits or porous places in it, usually from porous

gold stock or a casting. If it is a ring you sold, it is doubly undesirable; however, if it is not, you can turn it into a profit by estimating the cost of repair high enough to fill the pores with gold solder. First try burnishing them out with a burnish­ing tool. Sometimes this will work by just rubbing a burnishing tool with extreme pressure over the porous part. If this does not eliminate the pores, then clean thoroughly, preferably with ultrasonic, then flux, and use gold solder the same karat as the metal in the ring. This usually will make a satisfactory repair. I am sure the ring manufacturers do this, because I have had to apply heat to new rings before and have observed the flow of solder where there should not have been a solder joint. Burnishing should be done on a ring mandrel, since it makes a solid backing for the extreme pressure needed to move the metal and fill the pores. In soldering, all dirt in the pores should be removed as well as possible, then heat and apply a good flux, and heat again until the flux turns white. Apply the solder and flow over the surface that is porous and polish. If no pores show up it is a good repair. A word of caution - shield or remove any stones that will not take heat and would be affected by solder filling the pores or pits.

Pewter jewelry, mugs, and hollow ware made of tin alloyed with other metals such as lead often create a problem with breaks. Pewter is compatible with soft (lead base) solder which flows at a low temperature or about the same temper­ature as pewter, depending on the alloys in the solder and the pewter. These repairs are really simple to make with a solder­ing iron. The soft solder can be applied to the break and the solder flowed from the iron into the crevice of the break, which actually welds the break and can be as strong as any place on either side of the break. This can be filed and finished by buffing lightly. Too much pressure on the buff wheel can create too much heat, causing the pewter to gald (get rough). Due to the cost of pewter today, these repairs are not only practical but profitable.

During and shortly after World War II, anodized aluminum jewelry came on the market. Aluminum can be anodized (electroplated) creating different colors which are very attractive, but for aluminum it will not hold up well as jewelry, especially in watch cases. Many watch imports of low cost watches were marketed and constant wearing (since a watch is worn constantly) quickly wore off the anodizing, and then the body acids attacked the base metal aluminum. The ends where the band would attach would practically disinte­grate. The same thing happened to other items such as cos­tume jewelry pieces. I never found a way of repairing anodized aluminum that was practical for a jewelry shop. Aluminum is not compatible with any of the jewelry solders or fluxes as none of the fluxes can control oxidation when aluminum is heated. Industrially, aluminum can be and is welded using helium gas and electric arc, but on small pieces such as jewelry it is not practical.

Small jewelry repairs such as installing jump rings, spring rings, attaching findings that have come loose, installing charms, soldering chains, or similar repairs usually take only a few minutes to perform. However, they require as much record keeping as major repairs, including time spent with the customer in taking in and delivering the job. It is necessary to have a minimum charge for these services. Many of these small repairs require findings or materials such as cements, solders, etc. As many of the findings and materials used and the time required are seemingly inexpensive, we have a ten­dency to do it while the customer waits or in their presence, then give it back to them with little or no charge. This can

take up from five minutes to an hour of your time, so figure what it actually costs. If your hourly rate is $25 .00 per hour (which is a conservative estimate for a fine jewelry repairman), then five minutes of this time is worth $2 .08, and the lost time in getting back to the bench on what you were working on makes it even more costly. I would not even suggest what you need to charge for a minimum, but a $5 .00 minimum is not unreasonable and $3.00 for every five minutes spent is also a conservative figure. Many of the companies that we do business with today are charging a minimum billing. With the cost of their salaries plus the fringe benefits, taxes, and over­head, they have to do this to keep from losing money on any billing made under $5.00. This is not their fault, but the fault of the system we live under in this highly inflated economy. Since we are professionals, there is no reason for us to give anything away or lose money on any customers that we service. Sharpen your pencils and figure costs and desirable profits to start making the income your talents deserve - if you are not already doing it.

Pits and pores in solder joints are sometimes trouble­some. Sometimes these appear in rings brought in for repair, and other times it happens to us in solder joints we are making in our own repair work. I know of two causes for this. One is dirty work or contaminated flux. To eliminate it from happen­ing from this cause, it is wise to always clean your work before soldering and make sure the flux that you use is not contami­nated. To keep flux from being contaminated, always keep your supply corked tightly and just pour out a small amount in a small vessel on your bench at one time. Change this often and throw out what is left at the end of a given period.

The other cause of these solder pits or pores is boiling the solder by overheating after the solder has melted and flowed. When applying heat, keep the torch on the solder joint only until the solder flows. Then check the joint and if it has not flowed completely through, reflux and apply the heat where the solder has not flowed. This will pull the melted solder to the heat and make a complete joint without boiling the solder. The remedy for this is not easy, but if the solder is filed away and the joint built up with fresh solder (without boiling) it will usually correct this. These pits in a solder joint don't usually weaken the joint very much, but it does look bad on a finely polished jewelry piece. If a piece has been put in a ring and this happens, a more positive way to correct it is to saw out the piece that was put in, making sure to saw to each side of the solder joints and remove all the pitted metal. Then cut a new piece of gold and making sure the work is clean, insert it, and solder it, making sure not to boil the solder. When a ring has a broken shank and the ends of the break are jagged and rough, if it is put together as is often done, it will result in a pitted solder joint. This can be eliminated by filing these ends smooth before soldering. When a crack ap­pears in a gold ring, even though it is just a hairline crack, chances for a pitted repair can be reduced or eliminated by using a fine blade in the jewelers saw and sawing a small slot into this crack. Then, place a small chip of solder in the sawed crack, flux, and solder, being careful not to boil the solder. This will usually result in a repair that can't be seen under 1 Ox magnification.

There are many undesirable parts to any business, but as we are interested mostly in jewelry and watch repair, use a little common sense, logic, and psychology to turn these undesirable parts into profit and satisfaction.

In the next article we will discuss polishing and cleaning in more detail. 'UCJB

August 1982/Horological Times 27

IT's CLOCK TIME At J!IARSHALL-~WARTCHILD

POPULAR - PROFITABLE

A 0 BmSIDE and TRAVEl ALARM CLOCKS

Regular Alarm - BA 1 •Travel Alarm - TR 1 D EACH ................... $10.95

Much needed - keep it in stock! HANSEN "SYNCHRON" MOTOR

·~ Hansen "Synchron" Motors are universal in that they are used in clocks and various timing devices by a wide range of manu­facturers. Model 600 and 610 is by far the most popular of all Hansen motors and is used in many different clocks and timers. It's in our "Recommended Stocking" Group. D No. 56750 ..••..•.....•..• $10.95

-------------------~-Send (or phone) your order to:

MARSHALL-SWARTCH I LO P.O. Box 726-H, Chicago, IL 60647

Quantity ___ BA 1 Regular Alarm @ $10.95 ___ TRl Travel Alarm @ $10.95

Kitchen Clock Glass@ 4.95 __ C610996 __ C610997_C61108 __ C61106 __ C61107 _C61101

Painted Glasses@ $14.50 C61112: No.1 __ No.2 __ No.3 __

Name ____ _________ _

Firm ______________ _

Address ____________ _ _

City/State/Zip _ _________ _

28Horological Times/August 1982

YOU CAN CREATE THE COLLECTIBLE LOOK IN CLOCKS with these old time kitchen clock glasses. Clock repairmen will recognize these familiar kitchen clock glasses with gold printed designs used on many thousands of old American kitchen clocks. These reproductions are made by one of the very fine, high-quality U. S. glass producers, with authentic designs and exceptional quality. Glass size is 8 in. x 14 in. - can be cut down to fit most kitchen shelf clocks. D EACH ....•.•.•.•..•.....• • .••.•••••••••..•.•. $4.95

No. C610996

No. C61106

PAINTED GLASSES

TO FIT ALL SHOP

REGULATOR CLOCK DOORS UP TO 13-1/2 in.

by 13-3/4 in. glass tablets are painted, just like the originals.

D No. C61112 EACH ... $14.50

.No •. C61108

~· r·

No. C61107 No. c.~1101

Number 1 Upper Ring. Gold Ring with black background.

Number 2 Calumet Baking Powder. Gold let­ters with black background.

Number 3 Coca Cola. Gold letters on clear glass.

AWi Voltage Diameter Height Eveready Duracell

(nominal) (metric) (metric) (Union (Mallory) Carbide)

" 501 1.SO 11.6 3 .6 350 D350 10L120

503 , .50 15.5 4 .8 355 0355 10L129

sos 1.50 11.6 5 .4 357 D357 10L14

S07 1.50 11.6 4.2 386 0386 10L124

S09 1.50 1 L6 3 .1 389 0389 10L122

S11 1.50 11.6 2.1 391 0391 10L130

513 1.50 7.9 3.6 392 0392 10L125

S15 1.50 7.9 5.4 393 0393 10L123 10L13

S17 1.50 7.9 2.7 396 D396 10R102

519 1.50 9 .5 2.7 399

S21 1.50 9.5 2.1 370

523 1 .50 7.9 2.1 361

525 1.50 7.9 3.1

- -

527 1.50 6.8 2.6

M01 1.35 15.6 6.1 E625 PX625 EPX625 RM625R

L01 3.00 20.0 1.6

L03 3.00 23.0 2.0

Copyright ©1982 by the Ameri?"n Watchmakers Institute

19 AWi BATTERY N

S-Silver M-Mercury L-Lithium A-Alkaline R-Recha

Maxell Ray-0-Vac Renata Varta Berec Bulov.a c (Accutron)

14 549 B-SR42H

RW255 544 RW29 RW15

SR44W RW42 7 541 B-SR44H 228

G13 RW22 561

SR43W RW44 6 548 B-SR43H 260 2

G12 RW24 568 2

SR1130W RW49 17 554 B-SR54H 2

G10

SR' l 120W RW40 23 553 B-SR58H 609 2

GS 317

SA41W RW47 2 547 B-SR41H 247-B 2 S-A730W RW27 567 2

G3

SR754W RW48 15 546 B-SR48H 255 SR48W RW28 566 G5

SR726W RW411 29 556 612

-SR926W RW413 35 543 613

5R920W RW415 36

SR721W RW410 46

18

SR626W 43

-APXG-25 V625PX PX625 T625N

BR2016

BR2320 B-Lim2320

PA<

82 UMBER SYSTEM ~eable Even Numbers-Low Drain Odd Numbers-High Drain

: izen Daimon Gold Peak Hellesens Panasonic Saft Sanyo Sears Seiko Timex Toshiba Yuasa AWi (National) (Mazda)

-272 8017 WG10 S01

8055 S03 •

274 76 H-RW42 WL-14 S07 8006 SB-B9 J G13 soi:. 57

D-41 273 86 H-RW44 WL-11 sos 8007 SB-BB H 5R43W S07 )-21 WG12

-)-15 276 89 H-RW49 WL-10 S17 8019 SB-BU M SR1130W S09 WG10

)-30 287 91 H-RW39 WL-5 S23 8018 SB-BS L SR1120W 511 SB-ES W1K

)-13 271 92 H-RW47 WL-1 S02 8009 TR41W K SR736SW S13 )-11 S8 -B1 SR411JY

SB-E1 WG3.

275 93 H-RW48 WL-6 S15 8010 -

SB-B3 F G12 S15 8027

S29 8043 SB-BL v Si'l726W S17 W2M D2M

B034 TR926W w W2L s ·;g SB-BP SR926W SB-EP D2L

I D1L S21

SB-BK SR720W 523 D1M

I - - -

S25

I. 527

-- - - -

l 308 PX625 H·D 8110 H-D M01

BR2016 L01

I - - - ·- -

336 BR2320 L03

COMPILED AND EDITED BY EWELL D. HARTMAN, CMW

1982 AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM

S-Silver M-Mercury L-Lithium A-Alkaline R-Recharg

AWi Voltage Diameter Height Eveready Duracell Maxell Ray-0-Vac Renata Varta Berec Bulova c (Nominal) (Metric) (metric) (Union (Mallory) (Accutron)

Carbide)

- --~ -L05 3.00 23.0 2 .5 BR2325

A01 1 .50 11.6 5.4 •A76 •LR44 •RW82 •v13GA

- --A03 1.50 11.6 4.2 '186 'LR43 •RW84 'V12GA

A05 1.50 11.6 3.1 '189 'LR1130 'RW89 •v10GA

A07 1.50 11 .6 2.1 '191 "LR1120 •vaaA

R01 1.50 7.9 3 .6 10SL19 22

-R03 1.50 11.6 3.1 28

' ' I R05 1.50 11.6 3.6 105L18 G512 20

R07 , .50 11.6 5.4 10SL17 ,, R09 1.50 9.5 2 .7 XR9527W

R11 1.50 7.9 2.6 45

-502 1.50 1, .2 3.3 201

504 1.50 11 .6 4 .2 301 D301 SR43SW RW34 1 528 B-SR43L 226 W511 GS12 RW14 120TC

506 1.50 11 .6 5 .6 303 0303 SR44SW RW32 9 521 B-SR44L W514 SR47 RW12

GS14

SOB 1.50 7.9 5.4 309 D309 SR754SW RW38 16 526 B-SR48L 70T 10L 13

S10 1.50 11.6 3 .6 344 D344 RW36 12 529 B-SR42L 242 WS12 569

S12 1.50 7.9 2.1 362 0362 5R721SW RW310 19 532 B·SR<l131 601 10L180 SR720SW

S14 1.50 6.8 2.2 364 0364 5R621SW RW320 31 531 B-5 R4031 602 5R6205W

*NOT RECOMMENDED FOR WATCHES UNLESS SPECIFIED BY MANUFACTURER

AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM 1982

1ble Even Numbers-Low Drain Odd Numbers-High Drain

zen Daimon Gold Peak Hellesens Panasonic Saft Sanyo Sears Seiko Timex Toshiba Yuasa AWi (National) (Mazda)

<- ~. . " " LOS: -lilR232li

A01

G.lSR A03

I LR 1130 A Ub

I '

A 'iJ7

-G3R R01

G10R R03

R05

80,5 G13R R0'7

~

XR9527W R09

f.M 1

8033 S02

~

li0-01 282 96 WS-11 S01 8001 Sil-Ai D SR43SW Sll4

110-16 SB-08 WGS12

B0-03 283 WS-14 S09 8002 SB-A9 A S06

28 6 WS-6 8003 :;us

I

281 H-RW36 WS-12 S12 8026 510

~Q-4il ~ sfs. 8062 TR721SW s W1U S12

Sil-DK D1U

Sii-AK

80-34 295 S31 8030 TR621SW T SR621SW 514

SB-DG W1V SB-AG D1V

GE 2

1982 AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM

S-Silver M-Mercury L-Lithium A-Alkaline R-Rechar(

AWi Voltage Diameter Height Eveready Duracell Maxell Ray-0-Vac Renata Varta Be rec Bulova Ci

(Nominal) (Metric) (Metric) (Union (Mallory) (Accutron)

Carbide)

516 1 .50 11 .6 1.6 366 5R11165W RW318 608

518 1.50 9.5 2.1 371 5R920SW RW315 30 537 605 2

I 520 1 .50 11.6 2.1 381 0381 5R1120SW RW30 34 533 B-SR55L 2

10R130

522 1.50 7.9 3.6 384 0384 5R415W RW37 10 527 B-5R41l 247 2

10L15 5R7365W

524 1 .50 11 .6 3.1 390 0390 SR1130SW RW39 11 534 B-5R54L 603 2

526 1 .50 9.5 3.6 394 0394 SR936SW RW33 27 524 B-5R45L 2 10L126 10L12

528 1.50 9.5 2.7 395 0395 SR9265W RW313 25 523 B·5R56L 610 2 RW13

S30 1 .50 7.9 2.7 397 0397 SR726SW RW311 26 536 B-S R57L 607

532 1.50 6.8 2 .6 377 5R626SW 37 2

534 1 .50 6.8 1 .6 321 SR616SW 38 540 611

536 1.50 7.9 1 .4 39 • '33

S38 1.50 7.9 1 .6 315 5R7165W RW316 40 530

540 1.50 9.5 1.6 373 SR916SW AW317 41 539

542 1.5 0 7.9 3 . 1 24 525

544 1.50 6.8 1.1 42 ••32

546 1.50 7.9 1 .0 44

S48 1.50 B-SR4531

I S50 1.50 9 .5 2.7 5R9275W

**INVERSED POLARITY (DISCONTINUED) PAC

AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM 1982

,eable Even Numbers-Low Drain Odd Numbers-High Drain

tizen Da imon Gold Peak Hellesens Panasoni c Saft Sanyo Sears Seiko Timex Toshiba Yuasa AWi

(National) (Mazda)

8066 wos S16

I 10-31 8071 SS-AN D1T 518

'10-27 S34 6029 TR1120S\ll SR1120SV'' 520 SB-AS W1S SB·DS

30-18 280 H-RW37 WS-1 S10 8011 TR41SW SR736SW 736 S;>2 SB-DI SB-Al

J0·24 286 WS-10 S11 8037 SA1130S ~'• SR1130SW 524

I SB·Al:J WGS10 SB ·DU

rn-11 284 94 S27 8032 SB-A4 SR45 .;;;>6

l - -- -

30-20 288 95 S25 8031 TR926l>W w D2T 528 I SB·AP W2T

289 S26 8033 TR726SW SR726SW s .. ;u SB-DL W2U SB-AL D2U

30-39 D2V 532

! TR626SW

SB-AF DPV '.:>...:>4

I -

S..lb

I G16R 8044

S..l8 I SR916SW WOT ::.40 SB-AJ SR916SW

DPT

S4<'

DQV 5441

S46

293 548

I 550

~3

1982 AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM

S-Silver M-Mercury L-Lithium A-Alkaline R-Rechar

AWi Voltage Diameter Height Eveready Duracell Maxell Ray-0-Vac Renata Varta Be rec Bulova Ci (Nominal) (Metric) (Metric) (Union (Mallory) (Accutron)

Carbide)

'

M02 1.35 11 .6 5.4 313 0313 RW52 13 501 B-MR44 28 WH3 7081

- ~ -

M04 1.35 7.9 5.4 323 0323 RW58 8 506 B-MR48 10R123 7086 WH6

M06 1.35 7.9 3 .6 325 0325 RW57 5 507 B-MR41 6UDC 28 10R125 7087 WH1

- -MOS 1.35 11 .6 3.6 343 0343 RW56 3 509 B-MR42 218 28

WH4,WH8 7089 12UECD WH12NM

~ -

M10 1 .35 11.6 4.2 354 0354 RW54 4 508 B-MR43 10R124 7088 10R11 - -

M12 1.35 11.6 3.6 387 0387 RW51 502 B-MR42 214 W2

M14 1.35 8.9 3 .3 388 0388 503 221 10R10 7083

,_ - - --L02 1.50 11 .6 5 .6 803

I

L04 3.00 12.0 2.0

- -- - -L06 3 .00 12.0 4.0

LOB 3.00 16.0 2.0

-L10 3.00 20.0 1.6 CR2016

- - -L12 3.00 20.0 2.5 CR2025 CR2025

- ·-L14 3.00 20.0 3 .2 CR2032 CR2032

- -· - -L16 3.00 23.0 1.6

- -L18 3 .00 24.0 2 .0

- -

L20 3.00 24.0 3 .0

- - - ~- - ·- -p~

AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM 1982

1eable Even Numbers-Low Drain Odd Numbers-High Drain

jzen Daimon Gold Peak Hellesens Panasonic Saft Sanyo Sears Seiko Timex Toshiba Yuasa AWi (National) (Mazda)

>-06 303 H-RW52 WH-3 M13 8039 MR-44 H-C M02

I 3 04 H-RW58 WH-6 MOB 8036 SB-C3 c ivi04

~-02 300 H-RW57 WH-1 MOS qoo4 SB-C1 HM-A Muo

)-05 301 H-RW56 WH-8 M03 8005 B H-B i\110!l WH-4 WH12NM

I 302 H-RW54 8054 se.aa M10

H-RW56 8041 M12

8042 M14

-AL L02

I CR1220 Lll4

CR1240E LUO

I

l CR1620 LOB

,_

C R2016 L10

I CR2025 L12

-

CR2032 L14

CR2316 L16

CR2420 L18

CR2430 L20

-- - - - - - -;E 4

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Comes complete with basket and solution. Removes tarnish, stains and dullness by chemical action and electrosonic vibration . Cleans diamonds, rings, earrings,

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. ) " j

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August 1982/Horological Times 29

By Fred S. Burckhardt

Born Losers We're going to take a break from our regular series of

articles, because frankly, I need a rest. This morning I got out of breath just pulling up my Sup-hose®. I wasn't too alarmed about that, but I did realize that a change was needed when I had trouble pushing the button on my LED, and worst of all, I couldn't even flick my Bic® ! I don't want to get in bad shape like a friend of mine. He got into such bad shape that he couldn't fit behind the bench anymore. It's a shame he lost his job. Luckily he found another, working at the Empire State Building. Once a month he goes to the top floor and they push him back down the elevator shafts to clean them out. The last time I heard from him he told me he was on a health food kick. He plans to open a new place called "Phil's Health Food Emporium and Fine Jewelry."

Since we are going to take a break from specific gravity, LC D's, inventory control, and all the rest of the hoopla I thought you would enjoy a good meaty article to sink your teeth into. Actually, it's an article for "Born Losers"- like the fellow who never came out first in anything. Even when he was injured, they gave him second aid. All this advice is freely given, so make the most of it.

First, there are many fine articles about "How To Make A Sale." But how many have you read that tells you what to do when you don't make the sale? This also merits some discussion. Let's say you miss out on a sale of a five carat diamond. There are several things you can do. You can:

l. Slash your wrists. Not only can this be considered very dire, but it is also an indication that you take things too seriously. This is not recommended if you have white carpeting.

2. Beat up on the customer. Be careful if he, she, or it is bigger than you. Not only does this make you look bad in front of the customers, but the "Beatee" may never come back again.

3. Smile, walk slowly to the bathroom, lock the door, and have yourself a good cry. This is much more dignified than either No. I or No. 2.

4. Do all of the above - but not necessarily in the above order.

Another very important part of this business is "How To Handle An Irate Customer." What is an irate customer, you ask? There are some little hints that will indicate if a customer, or shall we say ex-customer, is unhappy with you or your store. These include throwing rocks through your windows, slashing your tires, or burning a cross in front of your store.

30 Horological Times/August 1982

Now, the question is - how do you handle this type of per­son? The answer is very easy. First, put out the fire, clean up the glass, and buy new tires for your car. Second, try No. 2 above.

This has nothing to do with the rest of the article, but it will help to fill up space. Did it ever cross your mind to get out of this business and start a new, worthwhile pro­fession like becoming a Viking, or one of those people who stuff those little red things in green olives?

Technical Section

Changing watch batteries: You can place batteries in a watch upside down or downside down. If a watch doesn't run after you change the battery, open the case again, and put the up­side down cell upside up and the downside down cell down­side up. Never try standing a cell on its edge, because it be­comes difficult to properly position the case back or cell hatch. It also leaves a protrusion which will irritate the cus­tomer's wrist. This will make him or her unhappy. (Refer to "How To Handle An Irate Customer" above.)

Ring Sizing

Some "picky" customers insist on their rings fitting properly. Some will complain if their rings are a little snug, especially when gangrene starts to set in. It is recommended that you remove the ring if this should happen. (Be sure to charge them again for resizing.) Others will complain if the ring drops off when their hand is lowered, arguing that it is too loose. In this case, keep a roll of adhesive tape handy. A few turns around the bottom of the shank will be enough to please them. Remember, wrap only the bottom of the shank. If you come up too high and cover some of the setting, they'll think you are a sloppy craftsman.

End of the technical section.

One more bit of advice. Actually, it is a sooth that a sooth­sayer once said, "If a gunman holds up your store and asks for your money or your life, tell him to take your life. Save your money for your old age."

Now that the article is over, I can go have myself a nice tall glass of cold clam juice and a fried bologna sand­wich smothered with peanut butter. I feel better already!

UDJ3

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Questions and Answers/ Henry B. Fried

Paul Henri Matthey

Q I have not been able to locate any material concerning maker of enclosed photos. Case , dial,

and movement (all l 8k) marked Paul Hri Matthey, Locle. Serial No. 10267 on movement, case 4 7Vimm diameter, 29 jewel stop watch with % second recorder as well as one minute sweep. No "o" return provisions 2 gold jewel settings , gold balance screws, bimetal­lic split balance with Breguet hairspring, 2 suspended barrels-one for time train , other for stop watch. Both trains are controlled by the same double escape wheel.

Any information you can supply about this watchmaker or movement will be greatly appreciated. Enclosed are photos and a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Dale R. Linerode North Canton, Ohio

A Your photos reveal a very high­grade watch with two trains split seconds, quarter seconds jumper

made about 1870. Paul Henri Matthey came from

a long line of Henri Matthey watchmakers, all around La Chaux de Fonds and Le Locle, then the watchmaking center of Switzerland.

Watches like these of course are no longer being made. Parts, when they can be designed, would have to be made by hand, a most time-consuming and expensive operation and wait.

The Horological Museum at La Chaux de Fonds does accept, with some reservations, commissions to restore such watches to their original state. They have a workshop on the premises which can be observed by the public. The workers there have at their facili­ties, exact or very similar examples from which to make notes, sketches, and samples. Also, they may have some old movements, very similar from which they may take parts, alter them to fit, and satisfy a client. The wait is very long, and detailed agreements and satisfactions should be made before submitting any item to any repairer, regardless of his sponsorship.

32 Horological Times/August 1982

QFirst let me thank you for your help thus far. Belonging to A WI has been a distinct advantage

over the years- a real learning experi­ence. Your responses to my horological problems are both appreciated and honored. I almost feel that I'm getting to know you as a friend and mentor. Now to the problem(s) . I) I'm returning your most recent letter regarding the Agassiz mainspring. I've tried ordering one. Thus far, I've written Fried & Field in San Francisco, Otto Frei-Jules Borel in Oakland, and S. LaRose in Greensboro. Nobody can come close. Can you suggest a source? I can't afford to keep buying main­springs that end up being tolerable in two of three dimensions. Any help in this regard will be most appreciated. 2) I have a customer with an International Time Recorder which hung in a local bar for perhaps fifty years. Somewhere

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

along the line, it was electrified. My customer would like it converted back to the original (KW) condition. I sus­pect the original movement may have been a Seth Thomas, but all the infor­mation I have (the owner's manual) refers only to the recorder, not the clock movement. I'd like to purchase a movement but don't have the foggiest idea where to inquire. If it would help , I might be able to persuade the owner into letting me send the manual to you. Again, any possible source would be appreciated . 3) I have an Illinois model 29 Bunn special, 21 jewel railroad watch. It's immaculate. The problem is that when I tighten the case screws, the watch stops. I've looked for dents in the case (none observable) and checked to be sure all plate screws are tight. Can you suggest what's causing the bind? I'm replacing the mainspring but suspect that tightening the case screws somehow causes just enough warp to the plates to reduce endshake somewhere in the train. I'm sure I could eventually solve the problem by trial and error, but as I am writing you with special regard to the Agassiz, I thought I'd toss this one into the hopper with hopes of saving both time and frustration.

Phil Strayer Boulder Creek, California

A My suggestion to y ou regarding your International Time R ecorder clock is to place an advertisement in the

Horological Times for a movement to the clock you have, giving enough de­tails to pinpoint your problem and description of the clock.

Also, write to Martin Feldman, president of the Electrical Horological Society at 620 Reiss Place, Apt. 7E, Bronx, New York 10467. He is very knowledgeable of such clocks and can help as well, or better than I.

As for your Illinois Railroad watch, have the watch run, then tighten the case screw, one at a time. If your watch stops when just one case screw

(Continued on page 39)

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e SPEEDS UP BATTERY JOBS. You always find the cell you want faster, because your entire stock is in one compact tray, right on your bench.

e SIMPLIFIES ORDERING STOCK. Ordering is easier and more accurate because you always see the complete stock at a glance. You're less likely to run out.

•FRESHER STOCK. Borel high volume assures fresher stock. And, the six-pak stocking system assures first-in first-out usage. No getting old and new stock mixed to­gether.

•MORE FUN. Slide pak open ... remove cell ... slide pak closed. And, no trash to dispose of.

TIMEPOWER SIX.f>AK _INVENTORY TRAYS Small velvet tray (Illustrated) stores up to 343 batteries. Fits easily into bench drawer. Size: 63/4" x 71/4". Large velvet tray stores up to 576 batteries, with space for bat'tery tester, tweezers and case opener. Size 14314" x 81/4".

Best of all, you don't pay a premium for all these benefits. Day in, day out, Borel EVEREADY Battery prices are among the lowest you'll find.

To learn the toll-free number of the Borel office nearest you, call our central order desk:

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AWi Presents Course For Beginning Clockmakers

The American Watchmakers Institute, in cooperation with the Education Committee and NAWCC Chapter No.102 ,

presented a residence course for the beginning clockmaker in Cincinnati, Ohio June 7- 11. The course curriculum for " Introduction to Clock Repair" was prepared and presented by Otto Benesh, CMC and Marvin Whitney, CMC, CMW, FA WI .

Otto Benesh explains some of the intricacies of clockmaking.

We hove them all ... Arobics , Romans. numerals, dots and sloshes. In block styrene and hot-stomped gold or silver. Available with or without se~-odhesive bocks. All styles and sizes in stock and ready for immediate delivery.

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I h= I I Address (please print) I

City Stale Zip

1.----------~.ll 34 Horological Times/August 1982

,

Marvin Whitney discusses some of the tools used in the con­struction of a clock.

A few of the participants in the AWi "Introduction to Clock Repair" course.

(Continued on page 37)

Ge1n City College The School with Time For You

Choose courses in watch and /or clock repairing, engraving, jewelry-diamond setting or jewelry store management .

Great Career Opportunities Work Anywhere

Be A Professional Craftsman

New classes begin every Monday throughout the year. Placement service for graduates.

Write for Free Bulletin

GEM CITY COLLEGE KANSAS CITY SCHOOL SCHOOL OF HOROLOGY OF WATCHMAKING

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,t\WI Bench Courses 1982

PROGRAMS

A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters B AWi Certified Citizen Quartz

Watch Technician C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm c (b) ESA/ET A Quartz Analog D AWi Certified Seiko Quartz

Watch Technician E Intro. to Solid State Watch Repair F Fundamentals of Solid State Watch

Repair G Repairing the ESA 900.911

Digital/ Analog H Clock Restoration I Introduction to Striking Clocks J Common Sense Quartz

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August 1982/Horological Times 35

From the Manuscript and Photo Library of Orville R. Hagans, FAWI, CMW, CMC, FBH I, FNAWCC

Symbol or Death in the

Art or Horology ~om ancient times the skull and the ~ ~rossbones have been linked with the art and craft of horology. What is the origin of these macabre symbols? Research into the mists of prehistoric times in Europe and Asia have established that the skull and shinbones were pre­served as sacred parts of the human anat­omy. There seems to have been a some­what universal belief that these osseaus relics must be preserved to insure the fu­ture existence of the individual, although the significance was not always clear to those who practiced it.

Another facet of the belief was that great care must be taken in the case of sacrificial animals, so that their skulls and shinbones would also be pre­served intact. For example, in the Book of Exodus in the Bible, it is mentioned that the bones of the paschal lamb must not be broken.

On the human side, it will be recalled that while the Roman soldiers broke the legs of the two thieves on

Figure 1

Figure 2

36 Horological Times/August 1982

Calvary, they spared those of Jesus Christ. The theme of the unbroken skull and bones of the leg opens uncanny vistas into the past of human super­stitions, and their representation in art aims at symbolizing the resurrection of the body in practically all religious beliefs, whether pagan, Christian, or other faiths.

Watches in skull cases are best represented in the collection of Mary, Queen of Scots, the Catholic cousin of the Protestant Elizabeth I of England. In this collection, silver and gilt brass predominate among the case skulls which are well fashioned into miniature replicas of the human skull. The works were tucked into the base of the skull on a plate movement, with the face of the skull forming the covering.

Especially interesting was one item in the collection which contained within the case a full representation of the resurrection depicted in fine engrav­ing on the brass. This may be the one presented to the unfortunate . Queen Mary, during her imprisonment while she was awaiting her execution at the order of Elizabeth.

Death's head clocks were found mostly in ecclesiastical establishments, where the significance of the symbol was in keeping with the general sym­bolism of church architecture and decor­ation. It is . said that in the Benedictine Abbey of Down, Ireland, before the spoils of the Reformation, there was a skull and crossbones clock in the rood screen. The skull enshrined a bell and cavities were pierced through the temporal bones to allow the brass tipped crossbones to strike the hours on the bell. Reportedly, both the skull and the crossbones were those of a poor beggar who died before the alter of the abbey.

On other clocks, jacks with crossbones in their hands struck the bell under the masque of a bell metal skull.

Other unusual and famous skull watches are depicted and described in Figures I through 4.

The skull watch shown in Figures 1 and 2 is not an original timepiece.

The silver case was made from a mold copied from an original in Switzerland with a modern watch inside. The piece was cast and assembled by myself.

Figure 3 shows a silver watch in the form of death's head made by Johann Mauer, 1650-1 700. It is the property of The British Museum.

Figure 4 is a closed view of an­other timepiece. The lower jaw of this morbid time teller drops to show the hour. This watch is engraved with sym­bols and mottos, mostly in Latin. 'iJCIB

Figure 3

Figure 4

MORESCENESFROM AWi~ "INTRODUCTION TO CLOCK REPAIR" COURSE!

(Continued from page 34)

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A ugust 1982/Horological Times 37

CHIME AND STRIKE (Continued from page 18)

arbor through. Now add the chime locking lever (9) behind the chime correction lever. The two parts are the same shape, and they operate right next to each other. Notice the small tab on the underside of your chime locking lever. Its function is to lift the chime correction lever each quarter hour. Insert the arbor all the way through to the rear plate. Tighten the set screw (13) lightly.

As we look at these parts, it is worth a moment to investigate the chime correction mechansim. It is simple in design, and does not require any adjustment as long as the chime locking lever is working properly. The locking plate (16) has a chime correction cam (15) mounted behind it. Following the third quarter chime, the chime correction arm (14) drops into the single slot in the cam. The chime correction lever (10) is lowered into the path of the chime lock pin (8). No further chiming occurs until the hour, when the longest of the four arms of the star cam (22) lifts the chime locking lever (9) high enough so that the tab on its underside can lift the chime correction lever out of the way of the chime lock pin.

Now that the chime-strike lever is in place, you can

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check the warning runs for the chime and strike trains. First, check the strike warning. The strike warning lever (5) is at the extreme left end of the chime-strike lever. When the strike train is locked, the strike warning pin (3) should be at about a twelve o'clock position. This will allow almost one-half revolution of the strike warning wheel (2). To adjust the strike warning, separate the movement plates just enough to permit moving the warning wheel to the desired spot while the gathering wheel remains stationary.

The chime warning is checked in a similar fashion. Install the chime lift lever (19), which has the chime warning lever (17) at its end. Rotate the gears by hand with the fly going counterclockwise, until the chime locking lever stops the chime lock pin. The chime warning pin (12) should be at approximately a twelve o'clock position to allow for a half revolution of the chime warning wheel before the pin con­tacts the chime warning lever. If necessary, separate the plates enough to correct the mesh of the chime fourth wheel with the pinion above it.

With the warning action properly set for the chime and strike trains, there is no reason not to install the main­spring barrels before finishing up with the assembly and ad­justment procedure. After the barrels and winding parts are in place, put the four movement mounting brackets in the correct locations. Tighten all pillar nuts , front and rear. Wind the chime and strike barrels partially . Do not wind the time mainspring yet, because we have not put in the verge.

Setting the depth of the chime locking lever is very important. If it locks too deeply, you may have no chiming at all. A shallow lock may mean the gear train fails to stop when it should. To check the locking action, install the locking

Bmv~ng your HOROLOGICAL ~ TIMES® [!]

38Horological Times/August J 982

we have the answer for protecting and organizing your magazines. This leather-look binder holds 12 issues (that's one volume) and is an attractive addition to any library, office or home. No longer will you have to ·search for that March '79 issue, or wonder if the January '81 went out the door via the last paper drive. All issues can be inserted as you receive them. If you are interested in organization, send a check or money order in the amount of $8.95 to:

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plate (16) and then turn the minute hand through several quarters. Adjust the position of the chime locking lever ac­cordingly, and then tighten the set screw. Verify that the chime correction feature operates. Remember to leave some end shake in the arbor, which will assure freedom of motion for the chime-strike lever.

The rest of the assembly procedure is routine. Install the rack (24). It is interesting to note that we have not needed the rack until now. The hour wheel (23), with the snail (21) and the minute wheel (20) should be installed and the snail position adjusted in the usual way. On the rear of the move­ment , put on the chime drive gear and the three gears below it. Adjust the chime note sequence as I have explained before in this series. Basically, you can turn the minute hand through the first quarter, and then set the hammer action to agree. Tightening the top and bottom gears in the vertical line of four gears will firm up your adjustment. On this movement , the first quarter hammer sequence is four hammers rising and falling in a row, from front to rear.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS (Continued from page 32

is tightened, stop there, and test the train by grasping the center wheel spoke and delicately nudging it, observing whether motion is transferred to the other wheels. Notice which wheel is sluggish. It could be that the wheel has too critical an endshake. Also, test the dial plate, whether it is warping the dial when the case screws are tightened. Also, notice whether any of the two case screws intrude onto a vital part; perhaps one is too long. If tightening but one case screw doesn't stop the watch, tighten the other. Observe the train again. Another test is to remove the balance and pallet, letting the train run out while you are tightening the case screw or screws, observing just what happens.

As for your mainspring problem, I am turning your letter over to Mr. Sam Greenglass, one of this country's best material men and an equally competent watchmaker. He has a magician's way of finding parts for otherwise un­obtainable materials. ucm

Send your questions with a stamped self addressed return envelope to:

AWi Central P.O . Box11011

3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

Puzzled About Watch Repair?

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August 1982/Horological Times 39

Bench Tips/Joe Crooks

UPDATE ON: STAND-INS FOR

QUARTZ TEST METERS This is a reprint of the two electronic tips from Mr. T. D. Stanley, 43 Raugi.tikei St., Palmerston North, New Zealand. The update follows.

I've been an avid reader of the Horological Times for some years and I enjoy your Bench Tips. I always feel that you have so much expertise available to you that my small tips must be known by all. However, here are a couple:

1. You have a digi.tal to repair; there's no readout and you've tried the battery and cleaned the watch. If you haven't invested in a quartz timer, the next best way to see if the quartz oscillator is running is to take a small portable AM radio and hold the ferrite aerial as close to the watch face as possible. If the quartz is oscillating, a buzzing will be heard from the radio speaker. Note: Be sure to tune the radio off a station. This method will also be useful with oscillators in calculators, etc.

2. When servicing a quartz analog watch, the coil can be tested by holding a small compass next to it, first having removed the magnetic shield if one is fitted. The needle should swing from side to side with each change in pulse output. This is simpler and quicker than measuring the resistance of the coil.

Update

Referring to No. 1 above, it was found that a buzzing sound was also heard when an AS 118 7 (mechanical) watch was held to the aerial. So we went to Buddy Carpenter, one of our electronics experts, for some answers. Buddy did some research with an oscilloscope, frequency counter, and some other equipment that I can't pronounce, let alone spell. This is a condensed version of his findings:

The mechanical watch seems to act as a collector of magnetic flux from anything operating on 60hz alternating current (especially fluorescent bench lamps) and reflects this to a cheap AM radio when placed against the antenna.

Support The AWi-ELM TRUST

SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM By Sending Your

OLD WATCH BATTERIES to the

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

40 Horological Times/August 1982

I was determined to find an AM radio that would give a true picture of what was going on with a quartz crystal. So we visited Radio Shack and tried AM radios until we found one that fit our needs (and pocketbook). The model is No. 12-171 and sells for approximately $8.00. It has a built­in antenna, so the watch to be tested must be placed on top of the radio.

After obtaining the radio, here's what we found out. First, LCD's give off a 32hz signal and the analog gives a pulse signal only when the stepmotor is energized. This tells us that the radio is not picking up the quartz crystal at all. It is only picking up the output of the integrated circuit - speci­fically, the 3 2hz signal being emitted by the LCD, which is the square wave signal used to drive the display. The 32hz square wave signal was selected to drive the display for two reasons. First, this frequency was readily available from the divider circuit. Second, since the segments of the display will be constantly displayed with any signal higher than lOhz, the 32hz signal insures a constant display.

The pulse signal coming from the analog is caused by the alternate pulses of positive and negative current used to energize the coil in order to step the rotor. These pulses will appear once each second when the analog has a sweep second hand. They could appear only once each 6 seconds, 10 seconds, or even 60 seconds in some movements that do not have a second hand. So don't get upset if you don't hear a pulse each second. The same applies to the compass when using it to see if the electronic circuit of the stepmotor quartz is oper­ative. The needle will only swing when the coil receives a pulse from the integrated circuit.

Buddy gi.ves us a bonus with another electronic tip you may wish to try.

For those who wish to make a quartz tester, use a junked LCD module that is working. Remove the quartz crystal by un­soldering the two leads. Solder two small flexible insulated wires to the points where the crystal was removed and solder probes to the other ends of the wires. Now touch the probes to the quartz crystal in doubt, and if the segments are dis­played on the test module, the quartz crystal is working. Probes should be insulated from your hands, just as they are for a VOM meter.

I sure hope nobody makes one and sticks it to their AS1187. They may come up with a digi.tal display on the hairspring in vibrating technicolor! ·

Next month we have the most unusual Bench Tip ever printed. Look for it!

Send your tips to Jingle Joe, 265 N. Main St., Moores­ville, NC 28115.

We Salute These

ARONSON, Richard G.-Portland, OR

BARNETT, William E., Jr.-lndianapolis, IN

BRADFORD, Jack W.-Seahurst, WA

BRIGHT, Robert H.-Pittsburgh, PA

BULLOCK, William G.-Florence, SC

CARITO, Michael A.-Fairfield, OH

DANIELL, E. A., Jr.-San Marino, CA

DEKERMENJI, Bedros-Palisades Park, NJ

DINGACCI, Mary-Seattle, WA

DISINGER, J.W.-Hoopeston, IL

DUDA, Edward C.-N. Guildford, CT

EM ENGER, Robert S.-Costa Mesa, CA

FITCH, John C.-Denver, CO

FORSYTHE, Robert D.-Pittsburgh, PA

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August 1982/Horological Times 41

TECHNICALLY WATCHES (Continued from page 24)

stop A. This is done by moving the screw that controls this finger. If other tailstock spindles are available, they can be set up one with a bezel groove cutter and another with a bezel burnisher. These tools can be centered up in the same manner as the seating tool was centered, and the fingers 2 and 3 set against the stop A. Finger 2 can be set for the bezel cutter and finger 3 can be set for the bezel burnisher. After the tools have been centered and the stop fingers have been set against the stop, then the male center is removed from the headstock. Now chuck the rod that the jewels are to be set into in the lathe headstock. Place the spindle containing the seating tool into the tailstock. Then open the swing arm enough that the jewel to be set will go between finger number 1 and the stop A, making sure that the jewel is tight between the finger and stop . See Figure 9. Now as the tailstock spindle is advanced, the seating tool should cut a hole the same diameter as the jewel. View A, Figure 11 shows the seating tool being used to cut the seat for the jewel. If the hole cut is too small or too large for the jewel, then the centering of the cutter should be rechecked. To cut the seat for the jewel the proper depth, the stop screw of the stop device on the spindle should be set. See Figure 10, View A. Now after the seat for the jewel has been cut, that spindle is removed from the tailstock. Then the spindle containing the bezel cutter is placed in the tailstock. The swing arm of the tailstock is opened until the point of the bezel groove cutter is in the proper position to cut a small groove around the hole cut by the seating tool. View B, Figure 11 shows the bezel groove cutter being used to cut the bezel groove. If this operation of

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42 Horologi.cal Times /August 1982

Figure 7

Figure 8

F igure 9

Figure 10

A I

B

c

Figure 11

cutting the bezel groove is to be repeated on other jewels of the same diameter , then a plug of the proper diameter should be made up to go between finger number 2 and the stop to be used to relocate the cutter when it is time to cut another bezel groove.

The stop screw of the stop device for this spindle should be set so the bezel groove is cut to the proper depth. After the bezel groove has been cut, then this spindle is removed from the tailstock. Now take a blower and blow the shavings from the hole for the jewel. Place some oil on the jewel. Then the jewel is inserted in its hole. Make sure the jewel runs flat in the hole.

Now the spindle holding the bezel burnisher is

F

placed in the tailstock. The swing arm is then adjusted so the point of the bezel burnisher is centered in the bezel groove. Then a plug of proper diameter is made to go between finger number 3 and the stop. The plug should fit tightly between the finger and the stop. These plugs should be marked so they can can be identified for their proper places between their finger and the stop. Now advance the spindle holding the burnisher, causing the bezel to be burnished over onto the edge of the jewel. This is shown in View C of Figure 11. If many jewels of the same diameter are to be set, these oper­ations will need to be repeated each time a jewel is set. NOTE: The swing tailstock is considered a production tool where many items are made so they are exactly alike. If only one

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Figure 12

item is to be made, it might be better to do it by hand with­out this device.

The swing tailstock can also be set up to turn the diameters and shoulders on a number of jewel settings. See Views D and E of Figure 11. It can also be set up to strip the excess metal from the inside of the top side of the jewel settings. See View F, Figure 11. The principle of setting up the different cutters is basically the same. That is:

1. Center up the cutter. 2. Set the finger of the caliper against the stop. 3. Set the depth of the cutter. Figure 12 shows a swing tailstock set up for setting

a jewel int0 a piece of brass rod. Figure 13 shows a swing tailstock being used to set a jewel into a watch plate which is fastened in the face plate.

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44 Horological Times/August 1982

Figure 13

Next month a new series will start on how to use the modern watchmaker's lathe. UIIB

PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE (Continued from page 4)

to take full advantage of them. As president for the coming year , I plan to use this "President's Message" to show you how to take full advantage of your membership.

A thought that I would like to pass on this month and plug all year is to THINK POSITIVE. If you choose to think negatively, you can expect nothing but negative results; however, with the help of A WI, your results are sure to be positive. UCJl3

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Horological Times P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

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Book Review The Complete Guide To American Pocket Watches by Cooksey Shugart. 514 in. x 8% in., 254 pages, soft covers, over 500 illustrations, 8 color plates. Published by Overstreet Publi­cations, Inc., Cleveland, TN 3 7311.

This book with its ambitious title is a first effort by this author. The back cover describes Mr. Shugart as" A student of horology for twenty years, specializing in American pocket watches ... "

The format of this book is a combination of watch identification, price guide, short historical data, dates by serialized numbers, appraising guidelines, short terminology or glossary, and suggested guidelines to collectors. Watch chains, cases, "dollar" watches, and imported "fakes" of American watches are also among the topics discussed.

Despite its encyclopedic intent, any book with "complete" in its title invites comments on its shortcomings, omissions, and errors. This volume is no exception. This will be discussed and noted, helping others who since might have purchased this book.

Any book on history, identification, prices, and production figures must refer to previously printed and research material. This book does so heavily, using material mainly in the public domain, and information that is appar­ently from current publications. Although the author has made a good attempt to put a comprehensive package to­gether, there appears to be little original research. However, it is this all-in-one attempt which is the book's chief merit, even if it falls short of scholarly accuracy. Editorial proof­reading by others more knowledgeable of American watches would have made it more attractive to the average collector of American watches.

In the seven page terminology section, there are some misstatements and errors. For example, the author fails to add that an adjusted watch is one compensated for temperatures and manipulated to be isochronous, also omitting the adjust­ments for position. For the definition of overcoil, the author states, "A hairspring with the outer quarter-turn raised and curved toward the center. The overcoil prevents the spring from twisting." (Emphasis is mine.) He fails to mention its real purpose of isochronism. In fact, the word hairspring is also omitted from the definition of isochronism.

The definitions for balance cock and bridge fail to note their difference. Champleve is described as "different colors of enamel baked on dials and cases." Actually, this term basically has little to do with colors - some dials are not colored at all, yet are termed accurately as champleve. Earnshaw (balance) is incorrectly given credit with the in­vention of the bimetallic balance, yet failing to mention the

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wedge-shaped weights affixed to the Earnshaw balance rims. Endstone is described as "the jewel or cap at the end of a shaft that covers the works, helps to keep out the dust." The author also states that the marine chronometer "has a dent escapement." For the term position ... "Due to the lack of isochronism, changes in the center of gravity, a watch can be adjusted to six positions." On another page in the illus­tration for the six positions he states, "A watch with eight positions (the most common) ... " also stating that there are "nine basic adjustments for watch movements." The term repousse is defined as, "A watch with em bossed designs or pierced parts. A name given to older watches that were handmade and had pierced cases and pierced cock." Any household dictionary could correct this definition. Other definitions which can be improved are those for cloisonne, club tooth, convertible, craze, curb pins, free sprung, lever escape­men~ , and verge escapement.

In a short history of the watch, Mr. Shugart perpetu­ates the legend of Peter Henlein making the first watch, and that of "Nuremberg Eggs." He also states here that," In the early 1600's, watches had a three-wheel train, and the verge escapement had been introduced." This omits any reference that this escapement was used in virtually all clocks for about three-hundred years prior, and in watches since clocks became portable and small enough to be worn. In the same paragraph, the author continues, "With the invention of the chronometer

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escapement in 1760 and the lever escapement in about 1765, watches became thinner." Although the lever escapement found little, if any, favor until the nineteenth century and the detent (chronometer) escapement, used in watches did nothing to reduce their thicknesses, as aside from the detent escape­ment's questionable compactness, its raison d'etre cared little for cosmetic compactness.

The author credits Thomas Harland as producing 200 watches although no known examples exist. He omits Caleb Wheaton (1757-1827) of whose watches this reviewer has seen three and knows of at least one other by this Rhode Island horologist. In the same section, The New York Standard Watch Company is given credit for producing only ten-thousand watches, and the Philadelphia Watch Company, although adequately disproved as producing American-made watches, is accredited here as doing so. Another credit which is question­able states the, "oldest watch is one made of iron by Peter

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46 Horological Times/August 1982

Henlein (Hele) in Nuremberg ... and is now on display in the Memorial Hall in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania."

Other material is poor or misleading, such as the author's description under the heading of hunting cases where the author states, "The cover was used more for dress and protection and carried by men of status or on special occas­sions." Originally, these were designed for huntsmen and outdoorsmen.

While most of the illustrations are adequate and the eight color plates are excellent photographs of American watches, some others are poorly chosen for their educational intent. An example is a side view of the lever escapement, drawn initially in another older source, to illustrate many of the faults which would cause a watch to stop. Others are mediocre though recognizable tracings from previously pub­lished sources.

In a section on jewels, the author states, "Gemstones are used in watches as bearings for brass and steel pivots, and will run for generations without any perceptible wear." Brass pivots in jeweled watches!? And in a paragraph for gears or wheels he states, "To make the gears. large sheets of steel and brass are cut into ribbons. These ribbons are then passed between a pair of steel rollers and thinned to the exact size or thickness of 1 /4,000th of an inch. Then only one of the ribbons is set in a huge press of 20 tons. The press rises and then suddenly falls and in a click a perfect spoke wheel is cut." From this we do not know whether the author means (one) four-thousandths of an inch (0.1 Omm). or a quarter of a thousandth of an inch (0.0 I mm). This reviewer has visited watch factories the world over and has found that indeed wheel blanks are "punched out." However, if the author meant toothed wheels, Westclox uses this process with clock wheels, but I've never seen it used with toothed watch wheels.

The section on the identification of American watch movements is well covered with some minor differences. The "Example of a basic Ingersoll movement, non-jeweled, pendant set" shows one marked Ingersoll on the plate, but depicting something more like the typical Swiss one-jewel or no-jewel Roskopf pin-lever; Roskopf, with large harrel encroaching upon the movement's center and without a center wheel. Other sections of the book with its price guides and watch factory historical summaries are adequate with some ex­ceptions in the history of the New York Watch Company, vagueness in the descriptions of the mechanisms of the Man­hattan Watch Company, some minor omissions, and very skeletal histories of some com panics.

The format of this book is in the right direction, despite its errors and other mentioned shortcomings, which detract from its ambitious title and aims. Despite claims of fourteen years of research and collecting experience, the :rnthor exhibits an unfamiliarity with the technical features (Continued on page 56)

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Affiliate Chapte~ Column/Robert Allis

A Very Productive Meeting

E ven though it is August when you receive this magazine, I just re­

turned yesterday from the annual A WI Affiliate Chapters and A WI Board of Directors meetings. I would like at this time to report to you on the activities of the Affiliate Chapters meeting in particular. It seems that I have some good news and some bad news to report. The good news is that we had a very fine and productive meeting - we sub­mitted five proposals to the Board of Directors, and they were all accepted. The bad news is that your delegates re­elected me as chairman for the coming year.

As usual, we had a few gripes and complaints from some of the chapters, but nothing of any serious nature. Your delegates seemed to be a little better informed this year than usual. I hope it is a result of your former delegates coming back and helping the new dele­gates. This is our ultimate goal and our goal in the coming year - to see if we can work out some sort of program that will accomplish just this.

This year's winner of the best chapter award was The Horological Association of California. There were several chapters considered for this honor, and I can say that the balloting was very close. The one thing that seemed to sway the judges was their presentation of their videotape on the repair of the Atmos clock. Many man-hours were put

into this program, and your delegate can tell you that the results were worth the time spent. It seems that the videotape program is rather easy to produce and the end product is very gratifying. Should you be interested in making a program of this type, I would suggest that you get in touch with Jerry V ilicich of the Horological Association of California. Your delegate has his address. As you can see, I am already calling upon your dele­gate and I expect to call on him some more in the coming year. Gone is the day when all a delegate had to do was to show up for the meeting. I need his help and all the other help I can get if I am going to make this a successful year.

As I said, five proposals were submitted to the board for its consider­ation. They were:

1. A cumulative five-year index will be published for the Horological Times covering all issues printed in the past five years, and an additional five-year index at the end of each succeeding five-year period.

2. A WI will study the possibility of producing technical data on mi­crofiche film.

3. A WI will check into the possi­bility of A WI members gaining admittance to JA shows.

4. A WI will put the words "Support your local chapter" on all future membership billings.

5. A WI will promote watch and clock certification among the local chapters.

These were all accepted by the Board at its annual meeting.

The delegates agreed to the fact that we need to do something to facilitate communications between chapters and it was decided that a quarterly report form be drawn up. This form will be sent to each chapter every three months to be filled out and then, it is hoped, returned to the chapter chairman. I don't know if this is the ultimate answer, but at least it is a step in the right direction.

Fred Burckhardt also proposed that each chapter will have one person appointed for a minimum of three years who will act as a liaison between A WI and his or her chapter. The Board did not support this plan. The reason for rejection was not because the plan did not have sufficient merit, but simply because all the specifics of the plan were not spelled out. Even though the idea was not in­strumented at this time, this does not mean that the idea is dead. As a matter of fact, it was assigned to committee and I can assure you that you will be hearing more about it in the future.

This will conclude this month's report. I only wish that each of you could have attended at least one of these meet­ings. It is an experience not soon for­gotten. ULJI3

Bob Allis, Chairman (left) and Walter Riegler, Vice-Chairman (right) were elected to guide the Affiliate Chapters.

Bob Allis (left) presents the Affiliate Chapter of the Year award to the Horological Association of California represented by Jerry Vilicich (right).

48 Horological Times/August 1982

CALIFORNIA Ready or not, video is here, and on June 15, 1982, the Horological Asso­ciation of California got a firsthand view. An audience of more than 100 Southern California watchmakers wit­nessed what proposes to be the most dynamic innovation in teaching method since the slide projector.

Six televisions and a large screen video projector set the stage. As the lights went down, a bold musi­cal sound track heralded the beginning of a new film .

What followed was an indepth study concerning the repair and main­tenance of the Atmos clock. This video program, entitled "The Atmos Exper­ience," was conceived and produced under the direction of Jerry A. Vilicich, Treasurer of the Horological Associa­tion of California, and featured Jay M. Foreman, member of the Board of Directors of the American Watchmakers Institute. The film was photographed by Michael Thatcher.

Jay Foreman has over 40 years of experience servicing the Atmos clock and was glad to participate as the in­structor when Mr. Vilicich approached him with the video idea. While disas­sembling and reassembling the delicate Atmos movement before your very eyes, Mr. Foreman candidly shared his trade secrets about Atmos repair tech­niques and procedures. Unlike the slide projector which can only show various stages of the procedure, the video pro­gram was able to convey accurately and completely the entire process, and did not require a narrator to be present.

At the end of the film a ques­tionnaire was circulated and the viewers were asked to rate the film as follows:

1. Was this a learning exper­ience for you?

2. Do you see this as a use-

.. . from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

The Video Advantage In California

ful instruction method for the future?

3. Would you be willing to pay for this service?

The response to the questionnaire was so overwhelmingly positive that it would seem to indicate that , at least in Cali­fornia, video is an advantage.

One has only to imagine the vast potential of this exc iting new tool to understand what inspired Vilicich to his proposal that "we as watchmakers found and establish a video cassette library to be governed by the American Watchmakers Institute." Think of the possibility of being able to slide a car­tridge the size of a paperback novel into a machine and have a fellow watch­maker/clockmaker from halfway around the world appear on your TV screen. Think also of the possibility of a library, a network that reaches across the country, even around the world, gathering the most pertinent information from the most qualified of sources.

The positive reaction from HAC members indicates that video is a sen­sible, accessible, and intelligent teaching method.

ILLINOIS Mr. Rick Rowlands, a Seiko sales repre­sentative, spoke at a recent meeting of the Central Illinois Watchmakers As­sociation. The topic was "How to Talk with Seiko Service and Material Depart­ment." Also presented was the film "A Quest for Perfection," dealing with quartz watch manufacturing.

NEW JERSEY The June 8th meeting was the last oppor­tunity for m em be rs to gather and "ta] k shop" before September. Trading was

brisk at the swa p tables, and thl· huge platters of refreshments vanished. Mort' than 150 clock rnainspring barrels were offered free to members hy Michael Li zza, technical director of Harris & Mallow Products Co111p;rny of Lak e­wood.

PENNSYLVANIA Th e advent of today's modern quart z crysta l micro-electronic powered watches and va rious other timepieces , ha s created an expanded need of education, service, and technical sk ill s for the competc:-1t clock and watchmaker.

The American Watchmakns In­stitute instructor, Robert Bishor. of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, conducted a bench course and seminar on quartz timepieces recently at Stall' College, Pennsylvania. Thirty-five participants per­sonally serviced fifteen of the d iff crent models of analog and digil<il watches on today 's market. Malfunctions instru­mentally determined, component func­tions, practical repair procedures and regulation was <H:complished under the guidanct: of professional watchmaker, Bishop.

Those attending were a warded an American Watchmakers Certificate for having successfully completed this ad­vanced technical course.

Arrangements of the rrogram were by George H. Jones, Presid en t of the Keystone Guild of the Watchmakers Association of Pennsyl vania , Inc. 'liLJl:l

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL

GUILD

New Prqducts and Literature\

JEWELERS' WATCH BUYING GUIDE OFFERED TO

STORE OWNERS AND BUYERS

"Tips and techniques on how to buy and sell watches to build image and profits" are the sub­jects of a 20-page booklet called "Jewelers' Watch Buying Guide," available free to all store owners and professional watch buyers from the Rado Watch Company, Inc., 1140 Avenue of the Ameri­cas, New York, NY 10036.

The booklet is designed to aid jewelers who are now selling watches arid those who are considering adding watch lines by giving guidelines in choosing brands, selecting the right price ranges, achieving pro­fit potential and turnover, and in­tegrating inventories. Also covered is how to use advertising and sales training to move merchan­dise. A section called "Advice from the Experts" offers inter· views with Robert Wexler of Tourneau and Richard Goldman, Jr. of Zales who answer questions such as "What makes you buy a specific watch line?" "How do you decide on the basic stock to buy?" "How do you determine trends?" "What is your sales ratio of watches?"

The booklet is available free to 'al I professional watch buyers and store owners by writing Rado Watch Company, Inc., 1140 Avenue of the Ameri­cas, New York, New York 10036.

FREE DUMONT COMMEMORATIVE TWEEZER OFFERED The 1 OOth anniversary of the establishment of the original Dumont watchmakers' tools factory in La Sagne (Canton Neuchatel). Switzerland was re­cently observed with a special

SOHorological Times /August 1982

Jewelers' Watch Buying Gulde

Jewelers' Watch Buying Guide

run by the factory of a limited production commemorative tweez­er. A small number of these historic, commemorative tweezers has been made available for distribution in the United States, through Hammel, Riglander & Go., New York.

While supplies last, pro­fessional watchmakers and jewel­ers may obtain one of these historic, specially boxed tweezers free simply by copying on your

,.. ....... __ --­,_.._..,....._ --... --­............. ---

company letterhead all of the information that appears on both sides of the Dumont tweezer you are now using. Include your name and mail to Hammel, Riglander & Co., P.O. Box 222, New York, NY 10014.

SILVER POLISH FROM SWEST A new and dramatically im­proved formulation of silver polish

Commemorative tweezer from Dumont

oc

has been introduced by Swest, Inc. This new product, Rey Silver Polish, surpasses the polish formerly distributed by Swest in terms of ease of use and bright­ness of results. Rey Silver Polish is a 3-in-1 product - tarnish remover, silver polish, and barrier against future tarnish.

Rey Tarnish Remover is excellent for use by the jeweler and is also designed to be a resale item for your customers who want the finest silver polish available.

Write for free brochure or contact any one of the three Swest offices: 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, TX 75220; 5805-A Peachtree Corners East, Norcross, GA 30092; and 1725 Victory Blvd., Glendale, GA 91201.

MORE FROM MIDO From its new Baroncelli No. 1 Collection, Mido introduces men's (3512) and ladies'(3012) elegant ultra-thin quartz timepieces. Each has a Swiss movement and a two­tone case with matching band. The classic design of the band is projected over the entire watch including the case and the dial. From $900.00 keystone. Avail­able from Borel Watch Co.,

Timpiec es from M ido's Baroncelli collection .

818 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, M 0 64106. Ask for our new catalogs.

NEW BUR ASSORTMENTS FROM ALBERT FROIDEVAUX & SONS Albert Froidevaux and Sons/USA

is now offering, through whole­salers throughout the U.S .. new bur assortments. Each assortment contains several popular sizes of one shape. The assortments are the first to be packaged in a hang-up, see-through protective plastic pouch.

The pouch keeps the cutting heads from touching during storage and affords the use of a wide selection within easy reach.

Assortments are avail­able in tungsten steel in the following shapes: round, cone, setting, cup, and bud.

Contact your local wholesaler.

EXOTIC BAMBOO LOOK FROM BULOVA A two-tone stone textured cham­pagne and white dial is framed

by a bamboo style case in gold­tone, handsomely accented with a fine mesh bracelet. With a Bulova quartz movement and scratch resistant Duracrystal , this watch retails for $210.00. For more information contact Bulova Watch Company, Bulova Park, Flushing, NY 11370. (212) 335-6000.

THE NEW EC-1 FOREDOM'S NEW, SOLID-STATE CONTROL Foredom's new, rugged and reli­able speed control is designed for use with fractional horse­power motors. The unique con­trol assures smooth, precise con-

trol and maximum reliabil ity . The EC-1 is patented and is ideal for portable power tools and other small, motorized equip­ment including: hand-held grind­ers, lathes, sanders, saws, drill presses, and sewing machines. For more information ask for catalog No . 287. The Foredom Electric Co .. Bethel, CT 06801.

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF TOOLS OFFERED FREE OF CHARGE Referred to by many tool buyers as the "Encyclopedia of Tools ," the new edition of the Fowler tool catalog is now available at no cost. The catalog describes, as well as illustrates, precision inch and metric shop tools and instruments. A special feature of the catalog is a wide range of digital readout, electronic calipers, micrometers, and internal, verti­cal, horizontal, and measuring tools.

The Fowler Catalog of

Chubb Safe-Deposit Boxes

Quality Shop Tools and Me~suring Instruments is digest size to fit most tool boxes. The fully illustrated, 432-page catalog is carefully indexed and cross-ref­erenced for easy comprehension and selection .

To receive your free copy of the Fowler catalog or for more information contact: Fred V. Fowler Co .. Inc. Attn. Department L, 66 Rowe St .. P.O. Box 48, Newton, MA 02166. (617) 332-7004.

CHUBB SAFE­DEPOSIT BOXES Chubb series 100 x safe-deposit boxes, available for prompt de­livery , can be "custom designed," using five standard sections. For further information, write Chubb Security Safes, a division of Chubb Industries Inc .. 410 Lan­caster Avenue, Devon, PA 19333, or telephone (215) 279-4800.

August 1982/Horological Times 51

News in the Trade

JAZ PARIS COLLECTION

TO DEBUT IN THE U.S.

JAZ Paris, one of Europe's most popular watch and clock brands for the discriminating fashion­conscious consumer, will be in­troduced into the United States in the Fall, it was announced at a press conference in New York recently.

The introduction will include more than 100 men's and ladies' analog quartz watches, as well as several digital quartz models, specifically styled for the American market in the revered French fashion tradition and reflecting a wide variety of personal tastes. The all-quartz clock line will include more than 30 models in boutique alarm, wall, and carriage styles.

"We will position the watches to appeal to people with a sense of personal style, who appreciate wrist-wear done in an elegant form reflecting this style, and which also provides excellence in timekeeping-all a­vailable at intelligent and af­fordable prices," stated Jacques Meyer, President of Matra-Horo­logerie SA, the holding company for several major French watch and clock manufacturers including JAZ SA, the brand's manufac­turer.

Mr. Meyer also an· nouced that JAZ Paris watches and clocks will be marketed in the United States and Canada by SPD Precision Inc., a sub­sidiary of Seiko Corporation of America. This is in accord with an agreement made between Matra­H orologerie and K. Hattori & Co . whereby K. Hattori will market

52 Horological Times/August 1982

JAZ watches and clocks through part of its overseas distribution network . A new division named JAZ North America has been formed by SPD to handle this marketing effort. Ron Klass has been appointed Director of Mar­keting and Sales, and Bernard Knoll will be Manager of the Merchandising Group of JAZ North America. The suggested retail price range for the watch line is $60 to $130, Klass stated.

JAZ North Amedca is headquartered at 540 West 58th Street, New York, NY 10019.

NEW PORTESCAP U.S. SALES REP Mr. Joe Presti, General Manager of Portescap, U.S., announced the appointment of Robert Adam, Jr. as their new sales representa­tive to cover the states of Min­nesota, South Dakota, North Dakota, and Wyoming.

Robert Adam, Jr.

l & R PRESIDENT RECEIVES EXPORT AWARD Mr. James Lazarus, President of L & R Manufacturing Company, Kearny, New Jersey, was the recipient of the "Excellence in Export Trade" award presented to him recently for outstanding performance in export relations.

L & R, manufacturer of ultrasonic cleaning systems and solutions, serves fifty-two countries throughout the world. In receiving the honor, Mr. Lazarus noted, "We are delighted with this recognition and will continue our efforts in achiev­ing excellence in export relations with our customers throughout the world."

James Lazarus

SWEST ANNOUNCES FALL WORKSHOPS Swest, Inc., a leading supplier of tools, supplies, and equipment to the jewelry industry, announced plans for its next Jewelry Cast­ing Workshops to be held in suburban Atlanta on October 2 and 3 and Los Angeles Octo· ber 16 and 17, 1982.

Long known for its annual workshops held in Dallas, Swest only recently began holding workshops in its California and Norcross, GA regional offices. Though attendance is limited, the Atlanta workshops are very similar to the Dallas show.

The October workshops feature a loosely structured format of continuous sessions, allowing

individuals to spend as much or as little time as they desire with each activity. Activities include wax model design, sprueing, in­vesting and burnout, casting mold making, and finishing.

Reservations are on a first-come, first-served basis. For free brochure and registration form, contact Swest, Inc., 5805-A Peachtree Corners E., Norcross, GA 30092 or Swest, Inc., 1725 Victory Blvd.,Glendale,CA91201.

NOUVELLE LEMANIA SA TAKES OVER HEUER/LEONIDAS SA Heuer/Leonidas, Switzerland was merged with the Nouvelle Lema­nia SA, Switzerland recently. Simultaneously with this acqui­sition, Lemania also purchased from Baumgartner Freres (BFG) all machinery and tools for the production of the famous stop­watch caliber 410/411 BFG used in most of Heuer stopwatches.

This means that Heuer will now be vertically integrated, since Lemania manufactures its own movements for stopwatches, chronographs and specialty watch­es. This major industrial re­organization, with strong financial backing in the specialty watch field, will greatly reinforce Heuer's market strength and competi­tiveness and should allow Heuer future growth opportunities_ These measures will also enable its U.S. subsidiary, Heuer Time & Electronics Corp., to maintain their position on the U.S. market and further develop the Heuer brand.

THIRD ANNUAL AWA OUTING The American Watch Association's third Annual Outing, held at the Edgewood Country Club in River­vale, New Jersey recently, featured special presentations to Robert Pliskin and Mortimer Gershman for their outstanding performances when serving as

Special appreciation awards were given at 3rd annual AWA outing to Mortimer Gershman (left) and Robert Pliskin (right) by Bertram S. Lowe (center), president of the AWA.

Chairmen of the Board of the Association.

Mr. Pliskin, now presi­dent of Seiko Time Corporation, was chairman of the AWA from 1976 to 1978. Mr. Gershman, now executive vice-president of Seiko, held the office from 1978 to 1980.

The presentations were made by Bertram S. Lowe, president of the AWA at the dinner which was the culmina­tion of the day's activities. The outing was attended by watch company executives and their guests, principals of major jewelry firms, suppliers to the watch industry, and the press.

GIA ANNOUNCES RESIDENT SCHOLARSHIP For the second year, the Gemo­logical Institute of America an­nounces the Carleton G. Broer six-month resident scholarship.

"This scholarship pro­gram was named for the late Carleton G. Broer, Sr., a leader in the jewelry industry, longtime board member and friend of the Institute and father of the cur­rent vice-chairman of G IA's board of governors," said Richard T. Liddicoat, Jr., president of GIA.

At his death, in De­cember of 1975, Mr. Broer was vice-chairman of the board and

president of the retail firm of Broer-Freeman Company, located in Toledo, Ohio. His service to the industry spanned many years and numerous organizations. He served as vice-president of the Retail Jewelers of America, direc­tor of the Ohio Retail Jewelers Association and was twice the president of the American Gem Society_ He was the first recip­ient of the society's Robert M. Shipley Award in 1969.

The Broer Scholarship covers full tuition to any six­month resident course at either GIA location, Santa Monica or New York City. This scholarship is granted on the basis of finan­cial need and the individual's desire to become a professional jeweler. Applications will be ac­cepted from August 1 to Decem­ber 15, 1982. For an application, please contact the Scholarship Office, Gemological Institute of America, 1660 Stewart Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404.

MARSHALL-SWARTCH I LD ADDS WATS LINE For the convenience of customers in California, Marshall-Swartchild Company has added a toll-free WATS line, reaching its San Francisco office, now in tem­porary quarters in Room 621, 55 New Montgomery Street. Usable during normal business hours Monday through Friday

for orders, the number is 800-652-1238.

The Dallas office of Marshall-Swartchild also has a WATS line for orders. For calls from within Texas only, the num­ber is 800-492-2151. For calls from other areas, the number is 800-527-6390.

At Chicago headquarters the Marshall-Swartchild order line, for calls made from within Illinois, is 800-972-3776. Nation­wide, except for Alaska and Hawaii, the number is 800-621-4767.

TIMEX EXECUTIVES Timex Group, Ltd., announced recently the appointment of Kirk Pond, 37, senior vice-president for consumer electronics opera­tions. Mr. Pond is joining the company after fourteen years with Texas Instruments. In his new role, he will be in charge of Timex's consumer electronics activities.

Mr. Pond received a Bachelor of Science Degree in electrical engineering from the University of Arkansas and a Master of Science Degree in business administration from the University of Pennsylvania Whar­ton School of Business Admini­stration. He currently resides in Lubbock, Texas, with his wife and three children and will relocate to the Middlebury, Con­necticut area where Timex is headquartered.

Dr. Lemuel Tarshis, 41. executive vice-president for time keeping operations, has been elected to the board of directors and will be in charge of the company's watch and clock busi­nesses and manufacturing and technology activities.

Dr. Tarshis is a graduate of the Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, where he received a Bachelor of Science and Master of Science in metallurgical en­gineering. He also earned a Ph.D. in material science from Stanford University. , _

·1 u;;usl I ')8:' /!foroloKical Times 53

Classified Ads

Regulations and Rates

Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. February issue closes for copy on January 1.) Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. (513) 661-3838

Tradesman

Auto Clock Repair. No auto clock is too old, flat rates, 3 to 5 days service - Dayton Clock Repair, 3307 Cedarwood Dr., Fairborn, OH 45324. (513) 879-7675.

THE QUARTZ SPECIALISTS. All services on Analog, LCD, LED, Accutron. Free infor­mation packet. McBee Laboratories, 302-D So. 16th, Bozeman, MT 59715.

Quality Watch Repair! Top equipment, special­ized in old ladies' movements. Phillip A. Smith, 2620 Clearview Rd., Cambridge, WI 53523. (608) 423-3395.

Superior Tweezer Resharpening, $2.50 each, in­cluding return first class postage. Minimum of three tweezers. Advance payment required. Harvey C. Watkins, CMW, P.O. Box 1738, 1204 West Cason Street, Plant City, FL 33566.

CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING Fast Service - Write for free brochure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060.

CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J. C. Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. 163, Oakdale, CT 06370.

WATCH REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: AC­CUTRON, STEP-MOTOR QUARTZ, DIGITAL ANALOG & MECHANICAL. The Watch­Repair Shop, 2616 Kendall Ave., Madison, WI 53705. 1-608-231-3606.

CLOCK SERVICES wheels, gears, barrels, retoothing, repivoting, mainspring winding, bushing, jeweling. Send sample for estimate. SASE. Roy H. Niegel, CMC, CMW, 21837 Woodbury, Cupertino, CA 95014. (408) 253-4927.

54 Horological Times/August 1982

Clock repair material and tools. Manufacture of clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, weights, all types of brass and steel stock and custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00; Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio 44201. (216) 947-2268.

PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. Prompt service. Leo G. Kozlowski, 55 E. Washington Street, Chicago, IL 60602. 312-236-8052.

You! Have tried the rest - Now! Try the best for your custom made Horological and Instru­ment Parts and Tool repair. Precision Instru­ment, P.O. Box 70004, Charleston, SC 29405. Phone (803) 553-1198.

QUALITY CLOCK REPAIR OR RESTOR­ATION. FAST WHEEL AND PINION CUT­TING, repivoting, etc. Parts made to order. Send sample for free estimate. No watch parts please. David Arnold CMC, CMBHI, 556 Ann St., Elgin, IL 60120. (312) 695-1689.

CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS for platforms, ship's clocks, pocket watches. Since 1922. SASE for information. James Bourne Co., P.O. Box 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848.

LED & LCD MODULE REPAIRS complete module repairs on all Bulova, Pulsar, Hamil­ton, Gruen, Elgin & Waltham, Bemus, and non­brand name modules. E & M Associates, 109 Bank St., Waterbury, CT 06702.(203) 753-5715.

TRADE WATCH REPAIR. STEP-MOTOR, QUARTZ ANALOG, MECHANICAL, ACCU­TRONS. 32 YEARS EXPERIENCE. GEB­HARDT'S WATCH REPAIR, CMW, P. 0. BOX 207, NORTHUMBERLAND, PA 17857. (717) 473-3149.

DIAL REFINISHING, CRYSTAL FITTING & WATCH REPAIR. 48 hour service on Dial Re­finishing & Crystal Fitting. Finest Quality. QUANTITY works welcome. Send your works to: Kirk Dial & Crystal Co., Rm. 625, 4th & Pike Bldg., Seattle, WA 98101.

Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007. 1279 Inglis Ave., Columbus, Ohio 43212.

Quartz Watch Repair for the trade. LED, LCD, and Analog. Miami Valley Time, 294 7 New Germany Trebein, Fairborn, Ohio 45324. Phone (513) 426-5523.

Mechanical Watch Repairs only. We Guarantee Repairs. Free Estimates. Jack McCarthy, 1224 South Pacific, Oceanside, California 92054.

Special fit crystals made to order. Quality watch repair, tuning forks, step motor quartz, electronic balance, chronographs, one year guarantee. Special problems are no problem. Seven to ten day service at reasonable prices. A/A Watch Repair, P.O. Box 866, Coventry, RI 02816. (401) 821-2822.

Watch Repair for the Trade. Contact: Little Switzerland, Ltd., Swiss Master Watchmakers & Jewelers, P.O. Box 3195, Hilton Head Island, SC 29928. Phone (803) 785-7661.

Help Wanted

WATCHMAKER WANTED. Salary plus bene­fits. Experience in high grade movements. Contact Lennie Grobstein, Larson Jewelers, 7233 E. Main St., Scottsdale, AZ 85251 or call (602) 941-2600.

Situations Wanted · Graduate Parkland College advanced watch and clock repair (mechanical and quartz) and jewelry repair. Seeking position. Alan Newman 8806 Kenneth, Skokie, IL 60076. (312) 674-7134.

Wanted To Buy IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar cash offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. Ship insured/registered mail to: American Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407.

STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-New or used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2300 Henderson Mill Rd., N.E., Suite 318, Atlanta, GA 30345. Ph. 404/938-0744.

IMMEDIATE CASH PAID!!! Old Mine and Old European cut diamonds. Especially needed: Stones over 1 carat. Ship with phone number for highest offer, or call Mr. Neff, (404) 938-0744. W. F. N. Enterprises, Inc., HT, 2300 Henderson Mill Rd., NE, Suite 318, Atlanta, GA 30345.

For Sale

IWC - military wristwatches, Mark XI, cal. 89. Detailed information: W. Pielsticker, Goethestr. 32, D-4270 Dorsten, W. Germany . SAE ap­preciated.

Pocket Watch Repairmen Attention! Selling all necessary tools and equipment including Seitz Jeweling Tool (mint); Swiss Mainspring Winder Sets; Deluxe Inverto Staking Tool complete; highly jeweled American pocket watch movements & parts; Swiss Master balance; Brand new Timing Machine; Custom-made Lathe tools, more. Send your name, address, and telephone number. I will call you to discuss sale. David Bredow, 10927 E. 27th St., Tulsa, Oklahoma 74129.

American pocket watches, movements, cases, material and tools for sale. Write for list. Want to buy watchmakers tools, American pocket watches, related items. Dashto Horological Services, 5296 Fairfield Shopping Center; Virginia Beach, VA 23464. (804) 495-2414.

Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, Unimats (accessories also) Maximats, Sherline, Cowells, Enco, the Maximat Super Eleven. Lathe Catalog $1.00. Precision tools inch or metric, aluminum, brass, steel, all shapes, miniature screws, taps, drills, saws, collets. Tool catalog $1.00. Campbell Tools, 2100M Selma Road, Springfield, Ohio 45505. Phone (513) 322-8562.

U.S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400-DAY ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC­TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, P.O. BOX 172, SANTEE, CA 92071.

For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim­ers, Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­mond, Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. Territory: Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio, Tennessee, and western Pennsylvania.

CLOCK MOVEMENTS - All types of new movements, repair parts and clock tools. Complete catalog available for $3.00. South­west Clock Supply , Inc., Dept A, 2442 Walnut Ridge, Dallas, TX 75229.

ESEMBL-0-CRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is made easy by step-by-step procedure. Each small step of removing and replacing each part and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. No concentrated study is necessary. $200.00. Write EOG, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

You Make Jewelry Steam Cleaner. Under $100.00. Plans $4.00. Bruce Hanks, 114 Mc­Kinley Ave., Kellogg, Idaho 83837.

Portescap VC-10 . In mint condition . Elebash Jewelry Co., c/o Watch Repair Dept., Pensacola, FL. Call (904) 432-5136, ext. 14.

Special - Men's Lizard Grain Leather Straps -$2.25 each. Write for listing. Floro Distributor 12-0815lst Place, Whitestone, NY 11357.

Miscellaneous

HOROLOGICAL BOOKS - CLOCK AND WATCH REPAIRING, dcCARLE, $18.95. PRACTICAL BENCHWORK FOR HOROLO­GISTS, LEVIN & LEVIN, $40.00. SEND FOR LIST, SCANLON HOROLOGICAL BOOKS, P. 0 . BOX 379, MODESTO, CA 95353 , (209) 524-9789.

DIGITAL, QUARTZ TRAINING - Learn the Zantech 60 second method of testing quartz analog watches. Zantech, the originator of the Two Day Digital Watch Service Program is now also offering a Two Day Quartz Analog Repair Course with expert instructors, Louis A. Zanoni and Anne Louise Brackbill. Por application or information call or write to Zantech , Inc., 77 Shady Lane, Trenton, NJ 08619. (609) 586-5088.

THE DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR MANUAL 2nd Edition

A complete manual on the repair of

LED and LCD watches

by LOUIS A. ZANONI

$19.95

This 76- page, handsomely printed and easy-to-read version contains all of the practical information of the original plus added. features, including a glossary of electronic terms and milli ampere hour battery chart. This fully illustrated "How to do" manual covers the most frequently encountered repairs required of both the LED and LCD watches. The information in this book is fundamental and pertinent to all quartz watches.

FREE with order: ''.The Digital Watch Troubleshooting Guide" -------------------------------------Send check in the amount of $19.95 to: Horological Times, P. 0. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211

Name~--------------------------­Address~-----------------------~ City/State/ZiP---------------------

August 1982/Horological Times SS

Dates To Remember

AUGUST

1-4-Canadian Jewellery Trade Fair; Toronto Hilton Harbour Castle Hotel & Con­vention Centre; Toronto, Canada

2-6-The Jewelry Institute Summer Residency Program; New England Acadamy; Provi ­dence, RI

7-11-San Francisco Gift Show; Moscone Center and Trade Show Center; San Francisco, CA

8-10-Jewelers of America Chicago Inter­national Jewelry Trade Show and Conference; Expocenter and Mart Plaza; Chicago, IL

13-15-American Gem and Mineral Suppliers Association Pasadena Gem, Mineral, and Jewelry Show and Sale; Pasadena Convention Center; Pasadena, CA

13-16-Mississippi Jewelers Association An­nual Convention; Biloxi Hilton Hotel; Biloxi, MS

14-16-Fall Pacific Jewelry Show; Century Plaza Hotel; Los Angeles, CA

20-21-Nebraska and South Dakota Jewelers Association Convention; Holiday Inn; Kearney, NE

21-23-Jewelers International Shcwcase; Miami Beach Convention Center; Miami Beach, FL

21-25-Seattle Gift Show; Seattle Center (including Flag Pavillion), Exhibit Hall; Coliseum and North Court; Seattle, WA

28-29-St. Louis Jewelry Distributors Associa­tion Seminar and Trade Show; Beck­enridge Inn-Frontenac; St. Louis, MO

SEPTEMBER

2-5-Juwelia : International Clocks, Watches and Jewelry Fair ; Messepalast Exhibi­tion Center; Vienna, Austria

3-8-Bijorhca: International Jewelry, Clocks and Gifts Exhibition; Pare des Exposi­tions; Porte de Versailles; Paris, France

5-6-Mid-America Jewelry Show; sponsored by the Ohio Jewelers Assn.; Convention Center; Cincinnati, OH

5-7-Dallas Market Center Fall Jewelry Show; Market Hall and Hotel Anatole; Dallas, TX

Horolugical Times /August 1982

5-9-lnternational Watch, Jewellery & Silver Trade Fair; Earls Court; London, En­gland

10-12-Exposa: 13th International Trade Fair of Watches, Jewelry, Precious Stones and Jewelry Equipment; Fair and Exhibition Grounds; Salzburg, Austria

10-13-GLDA Tucson Gem Show; Marriott Hotel; Tucson, AZ

11-12-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers As­sociation; Annual Convention and Trade Show; Best Western Airport Inn; Des Moines, IA

19-21-Twenty-eighth Phoenix Gift and Jewelry Show; Phoenix Civic Plaza; Phoenix, AZ

22-26-Jeweltime '82, The International Jewel­lery and Watches Exhibition; World Trade Center; Singapore

25-26-lllinois Watchmakers Convention; Clock Tower Inn; Rockford, IL

OCTOBER

1-3-Arizona Jewelers Convention; Alamos Hotel; Scottsdale, AZ

2-4-Pennsylvania Jewelers Assn . Convention; Holiday Inn; Greensville, PA

11-15-Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair; Hotel Miramar ; Hong Kong

17-Massachusetts and Rhode Island Jewelers Assn. Annual Convention; Lantana's Restaurant; Randolph, MA

NOVEMBER

13-The Watchmakers of New Jersey Dinner­Dance; Ramada Inn; New Brunswick, NJ

16-18-POPA I Market Place Trade Show & 36th Annual Awards Contest; Expo­center; Chicago, IL

19-28-Finnconsum '82; The Helsinki Inter­national Consumer Goods Trade Show; Finnish Fair Centre; Helsinki, Finland

Advertisers Index AMERICAN PERFIT_ AWi. ..... . .

BOREL GROUP BOWMAN SCHOOL

CAS-KER CO .

EBAUCHES . . ESSLINGER . . EWING BROS. EXCEL MFG. CO .

G & G's MIRACLE HOUSE. GEM CITY COLLEGE. GOULD CO ..

B. JADOW CO. JEWELMONT.

KIENZLE .. . KILB CO ... . KILGORE COLLEGE

S. LaROSE .. . .... .

MARSHAL L-SWARTCH I LO MAXELL CO ... MEDIA DIGITAL. MEREMINSKY. MIRA CO .....

PARIS COLLEGE POLLAK WATCH CO • PORTESCAP ..... .

SEIKO . . . .

SWEST ... . E. SWIGART

TWIN CITY.

- . .. - 43 .40, 44, 55

• 33 - 45

Inside front cover

. . 25

.3,41 . . 7 . 34

. 38

. 34

. 35

. 39

. 42

. 21

. 46

. 37

. 37

. 28,29 . 19 . 45 . 18 . 46

. 46

. 39

.. 5

Inside Back Cover

. 44 .. ........ 4

. 45

UNION CARBIDE Outside back cover

VICKSMAN .

WESLEY CO

. 11

. 15

ZANTECH .. . .. ... .• .• .... . . . . 31

BOOK REVIEW (Continued from page 46)

and nomenclature of watches. Also, in his list of museums with watch collec­tions, he omits the collection at the museum of the American Watchmakers Institute, as well as the watch collection at Greenfield Village (Ford) . The list­ing of "Current Trade Periodicals Pub­lished on a National Scale" omits large trade journals such as the National Jeweler, Modern Jeweler, and Jewelers' Circular Keystone.

Although the book does reveal many shortcomings by the author, his compiling of much information, con­densed from many other different sour­ces, supplies in one volume a modest starting point for the neophyte collector of American watches. In view of the findings and comments made above, I can suggest this book with some quali­fications to the beginner.

Henry B. Fried

I

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