WikiVoyage Georgia - Index of

179
WikiVoyage Georgia March 2016

Transcript of WikiVoyage Georgia - Index of

WikiVoyage GeorgiaMarch 2016

Contents

1 Georgia (country) 11.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

1.4.1 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

1.5.1 Visas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.5.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.5.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.5.4 By minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.5.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.5.6 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.5.7 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.6.1 Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.6.2 Minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.6.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.6.4 By bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.6.5 City Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51.6.6 Mountain Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1.7 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.10 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1.10.1 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.10.2 Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.10.3 Tipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1.11 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.11.1 Types of places to eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71.11.2 Popular dishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.11.3 Vegetarian dishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

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1.11.4 Home food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.12 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

1.12.1 Chacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.12.2 Wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.12.3 Beer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.12.4 Mineral Waters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.12.5 Lagidze Waters (Soft Drink) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

1.13 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.14 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.15 Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.16 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

1.16.1 Tbilisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101.16.2 Kutaisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.16.3 Adjara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.16.4 The Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.16.5 Separatist Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

1.17 Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.18 Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

1.18.1 Sensitive Issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121.19 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

1.19.1 Mail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121.19.2 By phone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121.19.3 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121.19.4 By net . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2 Kakheti 132.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.10 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.11 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142.12 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3 David Gareja Monastery Complex 153.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

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3.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153.2.2 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153.2.3 By travel agency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

3.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

4 Sighnaghi 174.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

4.4.1 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

5 Telavi 215.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

5.3.1 Alaverdi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215.3.2 Tsinandali village . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

5.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225.10 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

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6.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

6.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.10 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.11 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.12 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

7 Gori 257.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

7.4.1 The Stalin Cult . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267.4.2 Uplistsikhe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277.4.3 Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277.4.4 Gori Jvari (Gori Cross) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

7.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307.11 Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307.12 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

8 Gudauri 318.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

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8.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

9 Mtskheta 329.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

9.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329.1.2 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339.1.3 By minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

9.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

9.3.1 Around town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

9.4.1 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

10 Rustavi 3510.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3510.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3510.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3510.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3510.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3510.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3510.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3610.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3610.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3610.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3610.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

11 Shida Kartli 3711.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3711.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

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11.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3811.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3811.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

12 Stepantsminda 3912.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3912.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3912.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3912.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3912.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

12.5.1 Gergeti Trinity Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4012.5.2 Other outdoor activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

12.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4012.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4012.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4012.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4012.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4112.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

13 Tbilisi 4213.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

13.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4213.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

13.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4213.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4313.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4413.2.4 By minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

13.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4413.3.1 By metro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4513.3.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4513.3.3 By minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4513.3.4 By cab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4613.3.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

13.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4613.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4613.4.2 Religious architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4713.4.3 Other Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4913.4.4 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

13.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5013.5.1 Theatres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

13.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5113.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

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13.7.1 Georgian cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5213.7.2 Asian cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5313.7.3 European/American . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5313.7.4 Italian cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5413.7.5 Other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

13.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5413.8.1 Cafés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5513.8.2 Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

13.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5613.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5613.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5713.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

13.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5813.11Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5913.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5913.13Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

13.13.1 Embassies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5913.14Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

13.14.1 Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6013.14.2 Azerbaijan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6013.14.3 Within Georgia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

14 Rioni Region 6114.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

14.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6114.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

15 Kutaisi 6315.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6315.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

15.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

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15.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6415.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6415.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

15.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6415.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6415.3.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

15.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6515.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6515.4.2 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

15.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6615.5.1 Theatres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6615.5.2 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

15.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6615.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6615.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6715.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

15.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6715.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6715.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

15.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6815.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

16 Oni 6916.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6916.8 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

17 Samtskhe-Javakheti 7017.1 Cities and Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7017.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7017.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7017.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

17.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

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17.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7117.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

18 Abastumani 7218.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7218.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7218.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7218.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7218.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7218.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7318.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7318.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7318.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7318.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7318.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

19 Akhaltsikhe 7419.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

19.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7419.1.2 By marshrutka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7419.1.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

19.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7519.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

19.3.1 Old city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7519.3.2 Surroundings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

19.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7519.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7519.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7519.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7519.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7619.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7619.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

20 Borjomi 7720.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7720.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7720.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7720.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

20.4.1 Borjomi Kharagauli national park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7820.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

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20.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7820.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7820.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7820.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

21 Vardzia 8021.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8021.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

22 Southwestern Georgia 8122.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8122.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8122.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8122.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8222.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

22.5.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8222.5.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8222.5.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8222.5.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

22.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8222.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

22.7.1 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8222.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8322.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8322.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8322.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8322.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8322.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83

23 Aketi 8423.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

23.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

23.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

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23.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.8 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8423.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

24 Bakhmaro 8624.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8624.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

24.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8624.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8624.2.3 By hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

24.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8624.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8624.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8624.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8724.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8724.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8724.9 Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8724.10Stay connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8724.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

25 Batumi 8925.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

25.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8925.1.2 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

25.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8925.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8925.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8925.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9025.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9025.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

25.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9025.3.1 By bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

25.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9025.4.1 Places of Worship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9025.4.2 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9125.4.3 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

25.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9125.5.1 Theatres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9125.5.2 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

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25.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9125.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9125.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9225.9 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9225.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

25.10.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9225.10.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9325.10.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

25.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9425.11.1 Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9425.11.2 Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94

26 Chokhatauri 9526.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9526.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

26.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9526.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9526.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9526.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

26.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9526.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

26.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9626.4.2 near the town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

26.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9626.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9626.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9726.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9726.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9726.10Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9726.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9726.12Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9726.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

27 Dvabzu 9927.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

27.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9927.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9927.1.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

27.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9927.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9927.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9927.5 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

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27.6 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9927.7 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10027.8 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

28 Khidistavi 10128.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10128.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

28.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10128.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10128.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10128.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

28.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10228.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

28.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10228.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10228.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10328.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10328.8 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10328.9 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10328.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104

29 Khulo 10529.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10529.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105

30 Lanchkhuti 10630.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10630.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

30.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10630.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10630.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10630.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10630.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

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30.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10630.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

30.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10730.4.2 Around the town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

30.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10830.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10830.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10830.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10830.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10830.10Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10830.11Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10930.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10930.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10930.14Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10930.15Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

30.15.1 Beach resorts (only in summer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

31 Likhauri 11031.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11031.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110

31.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11031.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11031.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110

31.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11031.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11031.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11131.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11131.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11131.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11131.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

32 Mtispiri 11232.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

32.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11232.1.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

32.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11232.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11232.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11332.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11332.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11332.7 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11332.8 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113

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33 Nabeglavi 11433.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11433.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

33.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11433.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

33.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11433.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11433.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11433.6 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11533.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11533.8 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11533.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

34 Ozurgeti 11634.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11634.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

34.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11634.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11634.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11634.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117

34.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11734.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117

34.4.1 Museums and galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11734.4.2 Parks and gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11834.4.3 Around the town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118

34.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11934.5.1 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11934.5.2 Festivals and performances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12034.5.3 Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

34.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12034.6.1 ATMs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

34.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12134.7.1 Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12134.7.2 Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

34.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12234.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12234.10Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12234.11Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12234.12Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12234.13Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12334.14Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12334.15Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

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34.16Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12334.17Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

34.17.1 In Guria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12334.17.2 Other regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

35 Sarpi 12435.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

35.2.1 Border crossing from Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12435.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12535.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125

36 Shemokmedi 12636.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

36.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12636.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12636.1.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

36.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12636.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12636.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12736.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12736.6 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12736.7 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

37 Ureki 12837.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12837.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

37.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12837.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12837.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

37.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12837.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12837.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12937.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12937.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12937.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129

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37.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12937.10Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12937.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13037.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13037.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

38 Northwestern Georgia 13138.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13138.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13138.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13138.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13138.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132

38.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13238.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132

39 Samegrelo 13339.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

39.7.1 To open Samegrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.2 Wild nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.3 Chkhorotskhu region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.4 Kvatsantsara (Eng. Dancing rock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.5 Anaklia-Ganmukhuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.6 Kheta fortress - Monastery of Khobi - Nodjikhevi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.7 Tobavarchkhili (Eng. Silver lake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13339.7.8 Enguri hydroelectric plant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.7.9 Rukhi fortress - Lia fortress - “Dida Kirsa” archeological place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.7.10 Traditional village life - Tsaishi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.7.11 Discover of Mountain Urta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.7.12 Get to know Zugdidi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

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39.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

39.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13439.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

40 Poti 13540.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

40.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.1.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.1.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.1.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

40.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

40.3.1 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13540.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13640.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

41 Zugdidi 13741.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13741.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

42 Svaneti 13842.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13842.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13842.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138

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42.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13842.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13842.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139

42.6.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13942.6.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13942.6.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139

42.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13942.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139

42.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13942.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14042.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14042.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14042.12Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14042.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14142.14Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141

43 Mazeri 14243.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.5 Svaneti trekking routes from Mazeri (Mount Ushba) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

43.5.1 Mazeri - Mount Ushba glacier trekking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.5.2 Mazeri - Baki pass - Etseri trekking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.5.3 Mazeri - Guli pass - Koruldi lakes - Mestia trekking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

43.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14243.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14343.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14343.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14343.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143

44 Mestia 14444.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144

44.1.1 Tourist Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14444.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144

44.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14444.2.2 By helicopter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14544.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14544.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14544.2.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

44.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14544.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

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44.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14644.5.1 Hiking routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14644.5.2 Skiing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

44.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14644.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14644.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14644.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

44.9.1 Becho village . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14744.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14744.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148

45 Ushguli 14945.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14945.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

45.2.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14945.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14945.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14945.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14945.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15045.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15045.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15045.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15045.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15045.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15045.12Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

45.12.1 Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15145.12.2 Images . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15345.12.3 Content license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

Chapter 1

Georgia (country)

For other places with the same name, seeGeorgia (disambiguation).

Georgia (Georgian: საქართველო, Sakartvelo) is acountry in the Caucasus. It lies at the eastern end ofthe Black Sea, with Turkey and Armenia to the south,Azerbaijan to the east, and Russia to the north, over theCaucasus Mountains.

1.1 Regions

Regions of Georgia

1.2 Cities

• Tbilisi — the beautiful and interesting capital, Geor-gia’s largest and most cosmopolitan city

• Akhaltsikhe — the small capital of Samtskhe-Javakheti is near two fabulously beautiful touristdestinations: Vardzia and the Sapara Monastery

• Batumi — the palm tree lined capital city of Ajaraon the Black Sea, near some good swimming

• Borjomi — a picturesque small city with famousmineral water, a national park, and a summer palaceof the Russian Romanov dynasty

• Gori — Stalin’s hometown, located next to yet an-other cave city

Shardeni Street in Old Tbilisi

• Kutaisi — Georgia’s second city and the historiccapital of ancient Colchis, home to two UNESCOWorld Heritage sites

• Mtskheta — the historic former capital of East-ern Georgia, the center of the Georgian OrthodoxChurch, and another UNESCO World Heritage siteis an easy day trip from Tbilisi

• Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a good jumpingoff point for nearby wineries, castles, and monaster-ies

• Ozurgeti — the capital of Guria is a good jumpingoff point for nearby beaches, mountain resorts andold monasteries

1.3 Other destinations

• The Georgian Military Highway — running throughunbelievable high mountain scenery along danger-ously steep curves, from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz,Russia.

• Kakheti wineries — especially the Tsinandali Es-tate, home to an old Romanov palace, beautifulgrounds, and some delicious wines

1

2 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

Tsminda Sameba church, 2200m high, and mighty Caucasusmountains in the back, raising more than 4000m above the sealevel

• Mount Kazbeg — one of the highest mountains inEurope is also home to Tsminda Sameba, one ofthe most spectacularly situated monasteries in theworld

• David Gareja Monastery Complex — a 6th-centurycave monastery on a mountain overlooking theAzerbaijani desert, with beautiful frescoes

• Upper Svaneti — the highest inhabited region of Eu-rope, centered around Mestia, is home to the myste-rious Svans and is a UNESCO World Heritage site

• Vardzia — a 12th-century cave monastery and cityoverlooking a large river gorge

• Uplistsikhe — a 3,600 year old Silk Road cave citythat was a major regional center of Caucasian paganreligion

• Bakuriani ski slopes — one time Winter Olympicsbid and the major ski resort in the south of the coun-try

• Pasanauri ski slopes — the main ski resort in theGeorgian Greater Caucasus Mountains, along theGeorgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda

1.4 Understand

Georgia is a land filled with magnificent history and un-paralleled natural beauty. Archaeologists found the old-est traces of wine production (7000–5000 BC) in Geor-gia and even more interesting the remnants of oldest (1.8million of years) hominids out of Africa were discoveredin Georgia. For those of us in the West, we unfortunatelyget precious little exposure to this stretch of land betweenthe Black and Caspian seas. However, this is changingdrastically.

North-Western Georgia

Georgians are not Russians, Turks or Persians, nor dothey have any ethnic connection with other people. How-ever, there are theories which link Georgians to Basque,Corsican and North Caucasian people. Georgia is a multi-ethnic state, the dominant ethnic group are the Kartveli,but other significant Georgian ethnic groups include theMingreli, Laz, and Svan (all of whom speak Georgianlanguages distinct from the national language, Kartuli).Georgian language is in its own language group, com-pletely unrelated to Indo-European or Semitic languages.Georgians have been embroiled in struggles against theworld’s biggest empires (Mongol, Persian, Ottoman, Rus-sian, etc.) for centuries. This little country was invadedmany times and destroyed as many. However, Georgianshave managed to preserve their cultural and traditionalidentity for 9,000 years. The countryside is covered withancient towered fortifications, many of which house an-cient churches (including one of the oldest in Christen-dom) and monasteries.Christianity was introduced into Georgia in the first cen-tury, and became the official national state religion in themid fourth century (Georgia was the second nation toadopt Christianity, after Armenia) with the evangelismof St Nino of Cappadocia. The Georgian cross is recog-nizable, for it was forged by St Nino with grape vines andher own hair. The grape and the vine thus hold importantplaces in Georgian symbolism.The conversion to Christianity meant that Georgianswould have a historical cultural leaning to the West in-stead of with the Muslims in the region (Turkey and Per-sia to the South). Nonetheless, Georgian culture stands atthe cross-roads of civilizations. Its culture and traditionsare the product of the influence of its neighbors and of itsown unique civilization.During the Soviet era, Georgia was the “Riviera of theSoviet Union” and was renowned for its cuisine and wine.Russians may love vodka, but the Georgian wines werefavoured by the Soviet elite. During Soviet era, Geor-gia flooded Russian markets with high quality tea, wineand fruits. The Georgian Black Sea coast, in particular(Abkhazia and Adjaria), enjoys sub-tropical conditionsand beautiful beaches (imagine pine trees and mountains

1.5. GET IN 3

covering the coast line).Georgia, on the periphery of the Soviet Union, also con-tributed greatly to the dissolution of the Soviet Unionwith nationalist calls for independence (and the Geor-gians have catalyzed the dissolution of empires before).Georgia stood on one of the key routes of the Silk Roadand now plays a significant geopolitical role, being lo-cated at the crossroads of Central Asia, Russia, Eu-rope, and the Middle East, and currently contains impor-tant oil pipelines leading from Azerbaijan to the TurkishMediterranean coast.This proud nation is still in transition after the fall of theSoviet Union. Tense relations with Russia (and deepen-ing friendship with the USA and the EU) has led Russiato close its markets to Georgian exports, badly affect-ing the Georgian economy. Russia has closed its bor-der with Georgia since 2006, while Russia’s allies, theseparatist regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia, havealso closed their borders with Georgia, and have main-tained the strict economic embargo against Georgia eversince. In 2008, the country went to war against Russiaover South Ossetia, in which the Georgians were defeatedwithin days, leading Georgia to lose 17% of its territory,Russia to diplomatically recognizing both separatist re-gions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia, and the severanceof diplomatic relations with Russia, which had a seriousimpact on the economy.Imagine cities with narrow side streets filled with lean-ing houses, overstretched balconies, mangled and twistedstairways, majestic old churches, heavenly food andwarm and welcoming people. All of this with a back-drop of magnificent snow peaked mountains, and the bestbeaches of the Black Sea.

1.4.1 People

The Georgians have exceptionally strong traditions ofhospitality, chivalry, and codes of personal honour. Theybelieve that guests come from God. Friendship is prizedhighest among all the virtues. It is celebrated in ShotaRustaveli’s 12th century national epic, The Knight in theTiger’s Skin ("ვეფხისტყაოსანი" or "Vepkhistqaosani"),in which a person’s worth is judged by the depth of hisfriendships. The Georgians are proud, passionate, andfiercely individualistic, yet deeply connected with eachother by a shared sense of belonging to a greater Geor-gian family. Women are highly esteemed in society andare accorded a chivalric respect. The statue of Mother ofGeorgia (kartlis deda) that stands in the hills above Tbil-isi perhaps best symbolizes the national character: in herleft hand she holds a bowl of wine with which she greetsher friends and in her right is a sword drawn against herenemies.

1.5 Get in

1.5.1 Visas

Citizens of Albania, Andorra, Antigua and Bar-buda, Argentina, Australia, Bahrain, Barbados,Belize, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Brazil,Brunei, Canada, Costa Rica, Chile, The EuropeanUnion, Iran, Iceland,Iraq, Israel, Japan, Kuwait,Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Mauritius, Mexico, Monaco,New Zealand, Norway, Oman, Panama, Philippines,Qatar, Russia,Saint Kitts and Nevis, San Marino, SaudiArabia, Serbia, Seychelles, Singapore, South Africa,South Korea, Switzerland, Thailand, Trinidad andTobago, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, United States,Uruguay, Vatican City and CIS nations need no visa tovisit Georgia for up to 90 days (2014) (Russia— up to90 days, visas not required since March 2012) .Additionally, citizens of any member state of theEuropean Union can enter Georgia with their sole identitycard .If you are not from one of the above countries, you canget a visa from a Georgian embassy or consulate.Visas are also issued at the official road and air (but notrail or sea) entry points into Georgia.The standard fee for a 90-day, single-entry “ordinary”visa, which covers tourism, is 60 GEL or its equivalent.Double-entry 90-day visas (only available at consulates)are 90 GEL.Visa-issuing procedures are pretty straightforward andcan normally be completed in a matter of minutes at en-try points to Georgia, although consulates require a fewdays for processing.

Border crossings

Georgia’s international entry and exit points are as fol-lows. Visas, for those who need them, are available at theroad and air entry points only.

• Batumi International airport (visas available) andBlack Sea port (visas not available).

• Böyük Kəsik Rail border with Azerbaijan – visas notavailable here.

• Guguti/Tashir Road border with Armenia.

• Krasny Most (Red Bridge, Tsiteli Khidi, QırmızıKörpü) Road border with Azerbaijan.

• Ninotsminda/Bavra Road border with Armenia.

• Poti Black Sea port – visas not available here.

• Sadakhlo/Bagratashen Road and rail border withArmenia – visas available for road travellers only.

4 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• Sarpi/Sarp Road border with Turkey.

• Tbilisi International airport.

• Tsodna (Postbina) Road border with Azerbaijan,between Lagodekhi and Balakən.

• Vale/Posof Road border with Turkey, reached viaAkhaltsikhe.

The border with Russia at Zemo Larsi/Chertov Most,north of Kazbegi, was only open to Georgians and Rus-sians for several years until 2006, when Russia closedit (“temporarily”) to everybody. However, there is anopen border crossing point with Russia at Verkhniy Lars(Верхний Ларс). It does not issue visa.The crossings from Russia into South Ossetia (the RokiTunnel) and Abkhazia (Psou River between Gantiadi andAdler) are considered illegal by Georgia. Some travellerswho continued on into Georgia after entering South Os-setia or Abkhazia from Russia have been fined or jailed.Others have got away without problems.Visiting Abkhazia from Georgia is possible, but it is notpossible to visit South Ossetia from Georgia.

1.5.2 By plane

There are flights to Tbilisi from a number of European,North American and Asian cities, including London (bmi), Paris (Georgian Airways ), Vienna (Austrian Airlines),Warsaw (LOT Airlines), Kiev (Georgian Airways), Mu-nich (Lufthansa), Athens (Georgian Airways), Riga (air-Baltic, ), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), Prague (Czech Air-lines). Just recently, KLM cancelled their flights toTbilisi but you can fly with Georgian Airways from/toAmsterdam. Belavia (Belarusian National Airlines ) isnow offering daily direct flights from Minsk to Tbilisi atgreat rates, and there are plenty of connecting flights fromEuropean cities to Minsk, e.g. from Amsterdam (transitvisa is not required if you fly to Georgia). Please notethat Georgian Airways (AirZena) has many flights frommany different cities. See also airBaltic for cheap flightsto many European destinations.The airport in Batumi reopened in May 2007. Turk-ish Airlines flights run every day between Batumi andIstanbul. Other destinations serviced by the Batumi air-port include Kharkov, Kiev and (from 15 September2010) Minsk (twice per week with Belavia). The Batumiairport is located about 10 km south of the city center andis accessible by minibus and taxi.There is also a nice, combined travel with Wizzair to Ku-taisi. The passengers fly from London-Luton, Doncasteror every other destination served from Katowice on Mon-day and Friday evenings to Katowice and then after 2hour-brake fly directly to Kutaisi. The return route is thesame and it’s often much cheaper than any of the regularairlines. For the tickets visit Wizzair.

Flights to Moscow and other Russian cities are still irreg-ular, given the current state of affairs between two coun-tries.Rapidly expanding tourist infrastructure (Black Sea re-sorts along Georgian coastline, ski resorts in the moun-tains Ajara region and in Svaneti) led to opening moreinternational airports (most recently in ski resort of Mes-tia), and along with recent ranking as one of the safestcountries in Europe and rapidly improving infrastructure,the number of tourists is increasing.

1.5.3 By bus

There are direct bus services from Istanbul, Turkey,which stop at various places en-route and terminate inTbilisi. There are also several non-stop bus services be-tween Tbilisi and Baku, Azerbaijan. There are even di-rect buses connecting Tbilisi to Thessaloniki and Athens,Greece which both have Georgian expat communities.

1.5.4 By minibus

There are many minibuses (sing. samarshruto taxi; pl.samarshruto taxebi) that operate international routes toand from cities and large towns in Georgia. Minibusesrun between Georgia and Russia (and despite the cur-rent state of affairs between two countries, are more reli-able and more accessible than the often irregular flights toRussia), Azerbaijan, Armenia, Iran, and Iraq. In Tbilisi,these routes usually originate and terminate at bus stationsand the Didube subway station. Outside Tbilisi, minibusroutes may stop at either bus stations or central locations(town squares).

1.5.5 By car

Entering with a car is no major problem. It is recom-mended to carry a power of attorney with you if you arenot the car owner. A sticker containing the car plate num-ber will be affixed to your passport in connection with theentry stamp. In the past, the International Insurance Cardwas not valid for Georgia, purchasing insurance at the en-try point was necessary (even though the amount coveredto be ridiculously low). Note that only the driver may en-ter the control area with the car, anyone else in the carhas to use the pedestrians’ lane.Traffic laws are now strictly enforced—one of MikheilSaakashvili’s first steps as president was to disband theuncorruptibly corrupt traffic police. Norms are strictlyobserved, in the cities and on the highways throughout thecountry. The most important norm to be aware of is thatpassing occurs in the middle of the road, and cars on bothlanes are expected to move to the outside of their own laneto make this as safe as possible. Roads within Tbilisi andother major cities are typically very smooth and safe, but

1.6. GET AROUND 5

country roads are often in utter disrepair. Though traf-fic laws are enforced, driving is still completely chaotic.Drunk driving is a major problem, drivers will often passwith little room between vehicles, speed limits and right-of-way are rarely obeyed, pedestrians will walk into traf-fic without so much as a glance in either direction, andof course, a random herd of cattle will occasionally slowtraffic to a standstill. An adventurous traveler may find anautomobile a convenient way to tour the country, but withthe abundance of taxis, buses, and marshrutkas, the aver-age traveler would be better off in the passenger’s seat.

1.5.6 By train

There are train services from Baku, Azerbaijan whichstop at various places on the route and terminate inTbilisi. Note that the “BP train” has been canceled. Con-struction of railroad linking the Turkish town of Kars toBaku, Azerbaijan-including both a new line and modern-ization of existing lines-is underway and will be finishedsometime between 2010–2012 This will establish a directlink from Tbilisi to Istanbul and farther to Europe as wellas a faster, more comfortable ride into Azerbaijan. Also,there is service from Yerevan, Armenia.

1.5.7 By boat

There are boat services to Batumi and Poti from Istanbuland Odessa. At the time of writing, the Turkish Black Seaport of Trabzon was closed to passenger services. Be alsoaware that Georgian port of Sukhumi is closed for anycargo or passenger boats apart from those with humani-tarian purposes. All vessels going to Sukhumi must un-dergo border check with Georgian coast guard in nearbyport of Poti.

1.6 Get around

1.6.1 Taxi

Taxis in Georgia are the most convenient method oftravel, and they are very cheap. Trips within Tbilisi rangefrom 3 to 5 lari, depending on distance, and you can ne-gotiate a price with the cab drivers. The vast majority oftaxis in Georgia used to be unofficial “gypsy cabs”, drivenby anyone looking to make some money. Such unmarkedtaxi service in Georgia was safe and widely used by for-eigners living and visiting the country. Drivers would,however, exaggerate the price for foreigners—it was bestto establish your destination and price before getting inthe cab. Situation changed a few years ago when all offi-cial taxis were obligated to install meters with fixed rates.

Rustaveli National Theater in Tbilisi

1.6.2 Minibus

Minibuses are locally called marshrutkas, and they oper-ate on established routes. After finding out the numberof your route, flag down a marshrutka on the street byholding out your hand, palm facing down.There are also minibus lines from city to city. Theirroutes end usually at bus stations and city markets. Theirdestination is written in Georgian, on a sign in the frontwindow. Ask marshrutka drivers if you cannot find theminibus you are looking for.

1.6.3 By train

There is a relatively extensive network of trains in Geor-gia. the website of the train company is http://www.railway.ge. Trains are rather slow, but also very cheap.So, if you plan to go from Tblisi to e.g. the Black Seacoast, it is well worth your while to consider to take asleeper train in stead of spending x hours in a Marshurtka.

1.6.4 By bike

As the country is relatively mountainous, you should con-sider a mountain bike. Many roads remain unpaved. Butby bike allows you to reach more remote regions. Youcan rent mountain bikes in bigger towns, for example atthe Jomardi club in Tbilisi.

1.6.5 City Bus

There are new Dutch buses operating in Tbilisi. More orless comfortable (they have no air conditioning), they arethe cheapest way to go around (for 40 tetri). However,the buses are old and slow in the Georgian countrysideand outside Tbilisi.

6 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

Ghergeti glacier

1.6.6 Mountain Travel

To get to the more remote regions of Georgia (e.g.,Dusheti, Khevsureti, etc.) without a tour company, busesand taxis will only take you so far. At some point, itwill become necessary to hike, catch a ride on a goods-transporting truck, or hire a jeep. Catching a lorry re-quires that you are flexible in your travel plans. Hiringa jeep can actually be quite expensive because of thehigh cost of gas caused by scarcity in the remote regions.To find out about either option, ask around at the busstation or central market of the last town on the bus ormarshrutka line.

1.7 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

For language fans, Georgian and its related languages area real treat. For everyone else, they could be a nightmare.Georgian is a Caucasian language which is not in any wayrelated to any languages spoken outside of Georgia, andit’s famous for its consonants. Not only are there quite aslew, but many, possibly even most, words start off withat least two and it’s possible to string together as manyas eight, as in gvprtskvni (გვფრცქვნი), figurative for “you

are ripping us off”. This combination of formidable con-sonant clusters and an original alphabet make Georgian ahard language to acquire.Everyone who visits should attempt to learn at least a fewGeorgian or Russian words. People most likely to under-stand Russian include: older generations, non-Georgiancitizens like Azeris, Armenians, Abkhazians, Ossetes,etc. most of whom are not fluent in Georgian (the rea-son was that Russian was compulsory during the Sovietperiod, whereas the local languages of each Soviet statewere not) and thus use Russian as a lingua franca, mem-bers of the elite (who are likely to speak more Englishthan Russian). Speaking Russian is useful and recom-mended in areas where ethnic minorities live, especiallyin the regions of Kvemo Kartli where 50% of the popula-tion is ethnic Azeri and Samtskhe-Javakheti where 50%of the population is ethnic Armenian.The younger generation, largely due to hostility towardsRussia, now prefers to study English. The access to goodquality English instruction in province was low, how-ever recently many schools got native English speakingteacher and English is rapidly becoming a second lan-guage nation-wide. When in need for help, look foryounger people; they are more likely to know some En-glish.Finally, signs in Georgia are rarely bilingual (apart fromTbilisi metro) or some stores; however, most road signsare in both the Georgian and Latin alphabets. Basicknowledge of the Georgian alphabet is very useful to un-derstand road signs, store/restaurant names, and bus des-tinations. Those traveling without knowledge of Geor-gian should carry a phrasebook or travel with a guide.

1.8 See

There are three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Geor-gia:

• Bagrati Cathedral and Gelati Monastery in the Rioniregion.

• The historical monuments of Mtskheta.

• The Upper Svaneti region which is the highest in-habited region in Europe.

Moreover the capital of Tbilisi offers a range of sights,among them it’s Old town with the Narikala Fortress.Gori, the birth city of Stalin also hosts a castle, the churchof Gori Jvari and the ruins of Uplistsikhe, a bustling townover 3,000 years ago. Other places to visit are the mineralwater town of Borjomi, popular among Russian Czarsand the Black Sea beach resort city of Batumi. In additionto that, Georgia is located in the middle of the Caucasusmountains with some peaks reaching over 5,000m.

1.11. EAT 7

1.9 Do

1.10 Buy

1.10.1 Shopping

• Gold & Other Jewellery – Gold, silver, handmade& other miscellaneous jewellery and precious stonesare very cheap in Georgia and the quality of the pre-cious stones, gold and silver is superb. Many for-eigners visit Georgia to buy jewellery because of itscost and quality.

• Art & Paintings – Georgian artists, such as Piros-mani, Gigo Gabashvili, David Kakabadze, LadoGudiashvili, Korneli Sanadze, Elene Akhvlediani,Sergo Kobuladze, Simon Virsaladze, EkaterineBaghdavadze and others, are famous for their work.In Georgia you will find many art shops, paintingsand painters who sell their works on the streets.Their work is of high quality and is often very goodvalue.

• Antiques & Other Miscellaneous Gifts – in Georgiayou will able to find many antiques not only fromGeorgia, but Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Rus-sian and European as well.

• Georgian wine, as much as you can. Georgia is thecradle of wine making, and with 521 original vari-eties of grape you will be sure to find excellent wines.

• Cognac. Georgian cognac is unique as it is madefrom Georgian wine. Try Saradjishvili 'Tbilisi'cognac.

• When heading outside the cities, you might find anoriginal hand-made carpet for sale.

• Georgians love to drink, so the country has a seem-ingly infinite number of beers, wines, liquors anddistilled drinks. To take home, buy a bottle ofchacha, a potent grape vodka somewhat similar toLebanese Arak.

Georgian export commodities (especially wine and min-eral water) used to be widely counterfeited in the domes-tic and CIS markets. For example, the Borjomi bottlingplant used to produce roughly one million bottles of Bor-jomi per year, but there were three million bottles sold inRussia alone!Recent update (Dec 2007): government together withbusiness circles has initiated a large-scale fight againstcounterfeit wine and mineral water so the sale of coun-terfeit products has almost been eliminated. However,when stocking up on bottled wine, it is best to buy it atlarge supermarkets which have better control of their pro-curement compared to smaller stores. Such supermarkets

are Goodwill, Big Ben or Populi. The same applies tomineral water.The quality of wine making improved immensely in re-cent years following re-orientation of wine exports to EUmarkets.

1.10.2 Costs

Currency: Lari, 100 tetri = 1 lariCurrency code: GELExchange rates:1 USD = 2.24 GEL (April 2015)1 EUR = 2.42 GEL (April 2015)1 GBP = 3.32 GEL (April 2015)When exchanging money in banks you may be asked topresent your ID. In the small money changers’ boothsavailable almost anywhere in the country, this is not nec-essary. These booths may also have slightly better ex-change rates. Exchange money before the travelling out-side Tbilisi as exchange rates are better than in rural ar-eas. The Georgian lari is a closed currency, change the re-mainder of your money back before leaving the country.Most importantly, be aware that some Georgian ATMsother than those in Tbilisi may not accept foreign cards.This can be a potentially serious problem if you are caughtwithout cash during non-business hours or on weekends,so have some cash. Also, while prices are generally veryreasonable in Georgia, a side effect is that many small es-tablishments and taxis will not have change for large larinotes (especially 50 or higher), so travelers are advised tocarry plenty of smaller notes and coins.If you visit Georgia for one week, you would have a greattime if you bring $700–$800 USD with you. With thisamount you will be able to stay in a good hotel, go onwonderful sightseeing tours and eat good food. All otheritems such as gifts & jewellery might require more. Formore details try searching and contacting travel & touristagencies.A budget traveler would have little difficulty getting by(and staying very well fed) on less than $150–$200 perweek, even in the capital. Allow another $30–$50 fortravel and sightseeing. (November 2008)

1.10.3 Tipping

Tipping in Georgia is virtually unknown, and in manycases could deeply offend the recipient’s sense of hos-pitality.

1.11 Eat

1.11.1 Types of places to eat• usual restaurant (more expensive)

8 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• restaurant (sasadilo) - cafeteria level dinery, whichmay be very tasty and cheaper than restaurants

• cafe, street-food

• beer bar, pub (ludis-bari)

• sakhinkle (სახინკლე) - places specially forkhinkali, where you may found other dishes as well

• sapurmari - special gathering places in nature, wherea stranger and foreigner may be easily invited

1.11.2 Popular dishes

The cuisine of Georgia is justly famous throughout theformer Soviet Union (visitors to Moscow will have no-ticed the amount of Georgian restaurants). Popular na-tional dishes include khachapuri (a cheese filled bread, itmore resembles cheese pie) and khinkali (minced, spicedmeat in a dumpling, served in enormous quantities).While the khachapuri comes with every meal (and it isvery possible to get tired of this), khinkali is usually re-served for its own separate meal, where Georgian menwill down 15 huge dumplings like it is no big deal.Mtsvadi, tasty grilled chunks of marinaded pork or vealon stick with onions, is another staple. But this is by nomeans the end of the list of wonderful dishes, usually fla-vored with garlic, coriander, walnuts, and dill. A tradi-tional Georgian feast (supra) is truly a sight to behold,with a spread that no group could finish, accompanied byat least 20 toasts set to wine or brandy. Another streak ofdishes made out of lamb (chanakhi, chakapuli) is simplydelicious.For a quick snack, you can try all variety of ghvezeli pastrystuffed with meat, potatoes, cheese, or other ingredients,usually sold in markets and on the side of the street. Beaware of western-style dishes (pizzas, hamburgers etc.)though, which are usually a pale copy of their true selves.It is much better to try local food.The fruit and vegetables here are bursting at the seamswith flavor, and very cheap. Even if you only speak En-glish and stand out as a foreigner like a slug in a spotlight,you can get fruit and vegetables in the market for a merefraction of what you would pay in, say, Western Europe.Grabbing a quick meal of tomatoes, fresh cheese, puri(bread), and fruit is perhaps the most rewarding meal tohave in the country.

1.11.3 Vegetarian dishes

There a lot of vegetarian dishes (mostly in western partsof Georgia) which are surprisingly tasty and accompanymost of local parties with heavy wine drinking. Try to getyour hands on ajapsandali, a sort of vegetable ratatouille,made differently according to each family’s recipe, andwhich is wonderful.

1.11.4 Home food

If you can, try to get yourself invited to dinner at some-one’s home (this is not too difficult in Georgia, owing totheir hospitality and general desire to stuff foreign vis-itors full of all the food they can afford). The food inrestaurants is an odd set piece of the same dishes over andover. But Georgian cuisine is far richer, and has an un-told number of dishes to try, prepared from scratch withfresh, locally grown products (although supermarkets arenow spreading throughout Georgia).

1.12 Drink

1.12.1 Chacha

Chacha (ჭაჭა) is a home-made fruit-based distilled clearspirit (liquor), analogous to Italian grappa. Chacha ismade of grape pomace (grape residue left after mak-ing wine). It can also be produced from non-ripe ornon-cultured grapes and in some cases fig, tangerine,orange, or mulberry. It is usually bottled “manually”.It can be purchased in Mom and Pop corner markets,Farmers Markets, back alleys and basements through-out Georgia. There is also commercially-made chachathat can be found in some shops and supermarkets. Theterm “Chacha” is used in Georgia to refer to any type of“moonshine” made of fruits.

1.12.2 Wine

Saperavi wines

Georgia has one of the oldest wine-making traditions inthe world and has been called the birthplace of wine(also as “Cradle of Wine”), due to archaeological findingswhich indicate wine production back to 5000 BC. Due tothis fact, Georgians have some of the best wines in theworld. Thanks to the ancient tradition of wine produc-tion and amazing climate, Georgian wine holds its strong

1.13. SLEEP 9

competition with French and Italian. Definitely try outGeorgian wine. Unfortunately, you are not allowed toexport home-bottled wine, which is often the best kind.Georgian wines are actually quite famous. It may be truethat they are little known in the West, but this definitelydoes not include some 280 million people in the formerSoviet Union where Georgian wines remain a welcomeddrink at any dining table.

Red

• Saperavi (საფერავი sah-peh-rah-vee)

• Mukuzani (მუკუზანი moo-k'oo-zah-nee)

• Khvanchkara (ხვანჭკარა khvahnch-k'ah-rah) -semi-sweet

• Kindzmarauli (კინძმარაული keendz-mah-rah-oo-lee) - semi-sweet

White

• Tsinandali (წინანდალი ts’ee-nahn-dah-lee)

• Kakheti (კახეთი k'ah-kheh-tee)

• Tbilisuri (თბილისური tbee-lee-soo-ree)

Imports of Georgian wine and mineral water have beenbanned by the Russian government, because of the polit-ical tension between the two counties.

1.12.3 Beer

Georgia produces a growing number of local beers. Abeer tradition has existed in Georgia since ancient timesin the mountainous regions of Khevsureti and Tusheti.After independence from the Soviet Union, Georgia re-vived its beer production and introduced its high qualitybeers to the market. The first and most popular Geor-gian beer was Kazbegi. Today, beer production in Geor-gia is still growing, offering high quality beers (thanks tothe high quality mountain spring waters in Georgia andto German designed beer factories). There are also manyforeign beers such as Heineken, Bitburger, Lowenbrau,Guinness, etc.

Georgian Beer

• Aluda

• Argo

• Batumuri

• Bavariis Herzogi

• Kasri

• Kazbegi (ყაზბეგი q'ahz-beh-gee)

• Khevsuruli

• Lomisi

• Natakhtari

• Tushuri

1.12.4 Mineral Waters

Georgian mineral waters have exceptional and interestingtastes — very different from French and Italian varieties.The most famous Georgian mineral waters are Borjomi(ბორჯომი bohr-joh-mee), Likani (ლიკანი lick-ah-nee),and Nabeglavi (ნაბეღლავი nah-beh-ghlah-vee). Butthere is a plethora of less well-known springs located insmall towns and alongside roads throughout the countrythat is worth sampling. Be forewarned that Borjomi isn'tjust ordinary sparkling water - it has a very high fluoridecontent and it may take some time to get used to the taste.It is however quite popular also outside Georgia (in theformer Soviet republics).

1.12.5 Lagidze Waters (Soft Drink)

Mitrofan Lagidze (ლაღიძე lah-ghee-dzeh) is a surnameof a very famous Georgian businessman of the 19th cen-tury who produced very popular soft drinks in Georgia.Nowadays these waters are called “the Lagidze Waters”.Lagidze soft drinks are made only with natural fruit com-ponents, without any chemical, artificial sugars or otheradditives. The most popular flavors are estragon/tarragonand cream&chocolate. You can find them bottled instores.

1.13 Sleep

The number of major Western hotels in Georgia is grow-ing every year, and not only in Tbilisi, but also in Ba-tumi and other Georgian cities. Throughout much of thecountryside, however, private homes are the cheapest andmost enjoyable option, though this option is very much ahomestay; expect little privacy. In general, accommoda-tion in Georgia, particularly outside of Tbilisi and Ba-tumi, is overpriced, and as tourism remains a fledglingindustry, service at hotels often leaves something to bedesired (such as a lack of toilet paper).

1.14 Learn

There are a handful of universities in Georgia which offerdegrees or exchange programs taught in English:

10 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• University of Georgia

• Grigol Robakidze University

• International Black Sea University (English exclu-sively)

• Caucasus University

• Georgian American University (English exclusively)

• European School of Management-Tbilisi

• Kutaisi University of Law and Economics

• Intensive Georgian Language Workshop for Begin-ners, American Councils

and a few others...

1.15 Work

Georgians are hard-working people in general, but theyalso like to have enough free time to enjoy life. Workcan start at 10:00 or 11:00 and end at 18:00–19:00. Geor-gians like to take an hour lunch break and enjoy their foodwhile socializing with their co-workers. People often taketwo weeks or a whole month off work to enjoy vacation-ing with family. It is an attitude in many ways similar tosouthern Europe and Mediterranean ones. Approaches topunctuality used to be very relaxed, but this is now chang-ing (at least, in Tbilisi and other main cities).Foreigners from most countries, including all majorEnglish-speaking countries and EU members, are allowedto live visa-free in Georgia for 360 days (and can renewtheir stay by leaving and re-entering), and to work andengage in business without a visa. Despite this, workfor foreigners is generally very limited due to the localsalaries being below a living wage by most standards, evenfor people from other parts of Eastern Europe and themore “well off” former USSR countries like Estonia andLithuania. A local wage will typically be around 300–400 GEL a month, with only a small section of profes-sional managers making in the range of 2000–2500 GELa month. Having said that, most Georgian families haveone or more apartments and houses out in the countryside,and when one does not have to pay full private sector rentand can share utilities, the local wages will be sufficientfor food and drink.Foreigners working in Georgia are either employed by themain NGOs like the UNHCR, Save the Children, Dan-ish Refugee Council, etc. Some large Georgian com-panies may employ foreign managers and consultants.These workers are generally salaried according to West-ern norms. One great way for travelers to experienceGeorgia is to participate in the Teach & Learn with Geor-gia program. This program places English-speakers in

Georgian schools all over the country to assist local teach-ers in public schools. The Georgian government has setambitious goals to make English the second language ofthe country (replacing Russian) by 2020. Participants inthe program will have their airfare paid for, will be housedwith a local family and will receive 400–500 GEL stipenda month. The program has recently been scaled back, andwill not be placing new teachers until August 2013. How-ever, there are a handful of language schools, especiallyin Tbilisi that pay roughly the same, though without pro-viding airfare, room, or board.

1.16 Stay safe

Most of Georgia is very safe for travelers. Crime ratesare among the lowest in Europe.Corruption, once a big hassle for tourists, has become farless visible since the Rose Revolution. It is now safe andreasonable to trust the Georgian police, as the infamousand corrupt traffic police have been disbanded. Policecars patrol streets in Georgian cities and towns regularly,and can help in case of car trouble or any other problemon the road.Use of seat belts is now obligatory and strictly enforced.Radars are installed at all main junctures and on keystreets and highways throughout the country. However,Georgia leads the South Caucasus in reported road trafficaccidents. A person is injured every hour in a traffic re-lated accident, while one death occurs every 18 hours, ac-cording to a study released by Georgian NGO, Safe Driv-ing Association. The World Health Organization puts thenumber at 16.8 fatalities per 100,000 a year (comparedto Azerbaijan at 13 and Armenia at 13.9).The Georgian Ministry of Internal Affairs provides someuseful information for foreign visitors.Women should be aware that many Georgian men do notbelieve “no” means no. They believe that no means maybeand maybe means yes. It is not uncommon for men to bevery pushy with foreign women especially. It is best tostay with groups and not to smile or give men attention.If you make a Georgian friend or get to know a Georgianman well, they will take care of you when you go out.There are many kind Georgian men but keep your guardup.

1.16.1 Tbilisi

Things in Tbilisi and the surrounding countryside havecalmed down a lot in the last several years. AlthoughTbilisi sometimes has been singled out for its (not alwaysdeserved) reputation for street crime, mugging is rather arare phenomenon.Other crime-related hazards in Tbilisi used to includeapartment break-ins and car-jacking, but the situation has

1.17. STAY HEALTHY 11

Georgian King Gorgasali overlooking Tbilisi

changed dramatically, and today Georgia boasts one ofthe lowest crime rates in Europe.

1.16.2 Kutaisi

The available evidence indicates that Kutaisi, the secondlargest city in Georgia, suffers from crime rates signifi-cantly higher than the national average. It is very impor-tant to exercise caution in Kutaisi after dark.

1.16.3 Adjara

city of Batumi

The separatist conflict between Adjara and the centralgovernment has ended with little violence, and it is nowperfectly safe to travel throughout the region. The oncerampant corruption should now be a rarity for travelers.Passing through customs at the Sarpi-Hopa border cross-ing is now routine and uneventful for most tourists, thoughat certain times it may take two hours or longer, due tolong lines.

Ushba Mountain, in the Caucasus Mountains of Svaneti

1.16.4 The Mountains

The mountainous areas of Georgia are remote and lightlypoliced. The regions of the Georgian Upper Caucasusthat are safest and easiest to visit are Kazbegi, Svanetiand Racha. The biggest hazard in these regions is altitudesickness.Previous worries of instability in the Georgian northeast,near the border with Chechnya, have subsided, and thePankisi Gorge is certainly not considered as dangerous aregion to visit as Abkhazia or South Ossetia.Svaneti is perhaps the most romantic and mysteriousof all Georgian regions, but its inhabitants, the Svans,have a reputation for fierce independence and distrust ofoutsiders (as well as legendary hospitality for acceptedguests). Travelers should exercise special caution whenvisiting Svaneti, which is best to see with a local guide.Tusheti is the most secluded part of the Caucasus rangein Georgia. Access is possible from June to October only,because of the large quantity of snow. Only a few familieslive there the whole year.

1.16.5 Separatist Regions

Abkhazia and South Ossetia pose some challenges fortravellers, South Ossetia more than Abkhazia. Abkhaziais easy enough to visit provided attention is paid to paperwork and border crossings. South Ossetia remains moreuntamed.

1.17 Stay healthy

Tick-borne encephalitis might happen but very rarely andonly if one spends time in nature (not in towns). A cau-tious traveller may want to make some vaccinations fortetanus, polio and diphtheria, but these are not really nec-essary. Giardia is a common threat to foreign visitors.Contraction is most likely via:

• tap water

12 CHAPTER 1. GEORGIA (COUNTRY)

• swallowed water from lakes, rivers, pools, orjacuzzis

• raw fruits & vegetables

• unpasteurized milk or other dairy products

Drinking tap water is generally safe.Passive smoking could be a big problem since tobacco isvery cheap compared to Western countries and many mensmoke.Accidents happen rarely.In Tbilisi you will be able to find many gyms and fit-ness centers with swimming pools and brand new trainingequipment, where you will be able to work out. In othercities they occur much rarer.

1.18 Respect

Georgians are hospitable to a fault (and beyond). If aGeorgian invites you somewhere, it will be almost im-possible to pay for anything and even raising the subjectof who will cover the bill can be embarrassing for yourhost. If invited to a private home for dinner, make sureyou arrive amply stocked with wine or sweets.If traveling in small towns (and in the quieter parts ofTbilisi), it is customary to greet almost everyone whopasses you with a friendly “Gamarjoba” (Hello). And theproper response to this is “Gagimarjos”.It is a very ingrained and idiosyncratic characteristic ofGeorgian hospitality that Georgians wish nothing morethan to hear that foreigners are enjoying their experiencein Georgia. Expect to be asked whether you enjoy Geor-gia and its cuisine. And it is expected that you respectfullyreply in the affirmative. Otherwise, your “hosts” will lookterribly dejected as if expressing a feeling of collectivefailure to show visitors enough hospitality.Dress conservatively when visiting churches. Avoidshorts and sleeveless shirts. For women, head coveringand dress or skirt are usually required; in some places,these are provided.

1.18.1 Sensitive Issues

Avoid talking about Russia, and especially about the sep-aratist regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Talkingabout this subject can lead to hostility, maybe even fiercedebates, and sometimes fights. Tense relations betweenthe two countries have led to many conflicts, most notablythe 2008 South Ossetia war and the severance of diplo-matic relations. Georgia has lost 17% of its territory, andmust support a large amount of refugees displaced by thewar, in 1992 there was ethnic cleansing of Georgians inAbkhazia by Russians, Cossacks, Abkhazian separatists

and north Caucasian hired fighters. Antipathy and bitter-ness against Russia run extremely high in Georgia.

1.19 Connect

1.19.1 Mail

Postal services in Georgia have almost ceased to exist.There are no letter-boxes or home delivery. Mail doesnot arrive to recipients, but they are notified and have tocollect mail at a post office. Postal rates are high (3 GELto send to another country, while in neighbouring Arme-nia it costs ~1 GEL). Postcards cost 1 GEL throughoutthe whole country, which is also expensive for a postcard.The few post offices still maintained by Georgian Post arebadly signposted and often in derelict buildings.

1.19.2 By phone

Georgia uses GSM (900 MHz and 1800 MHz) for mo-bile phones and there are three providers, Geocell (pre-paid LaiLai card), Magti (two prepaid brands “Bali”and “Mono”). Coverage and BeeLine. Service pro-vided by the first two is exceptionally good and you shouldbe able to use your phone in most non-mountainous ar-eas provided it supports the aforementioned technologies.Check with your mobile provider to ensure that they haveroaming agreements with at least one of the Georgian op-erators. Both Geocell and Magti haveUMTS/3G serviceincluding video call and high speed data. Roaming is pos-sible if you own a UMTS capable mobile phone. Geocellhas the cheapest mobile internet solution over its network.

1.19.3 Internet

DSL and fiber optic lines are available in Georgia. Thereare two provider companies: “Caucasus Online”, and“Silknet”.There is free Wi-Fi network all over the Tbilisi. Networkname is: “Tbilisi Loves You”

1.19.4 By net

In major hotels, WLAN service is available.Internet cafés, locally called “internet clubs”, are com-mon and cheap in Tbilisi and Batumi but scarce in Ku-taisi. Some places offer free WLAN to their customers.At least in Tbilisi, all hostels have free fast WLAN.

Chapter 2

Kakheti

Kakheti within Georgia

Kakheti is a region in eastern Georgia, famous for greatweather, golden hills, and Georgia’s principal wine coun-try.

2.1 Cities• Gurjaani — one of the centres of Georgia’s wine in-

dustry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dor-mition (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museumof Local Lore and History, and Museum of NatoVachnadze. Close to the historic mud-cure resort ofAkhtala

• Kvareli — known for its Kindzmarauli wineand as the birthplace of Georgian author IliaChavchavadze, whose fortified house here is pre-served as a local museum

• Lagodekhi — a pretty border town on the road toSheki, Azerbaijan

• Omalo — a village up in the mountains of Tusheti

• Sighnaghi — important center of Georgia’s touristindustry with impressive town walls

• Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a convenientbase for exploring the region’s wineries, castles, andmonasteries

• Tsinandali — featuring Tsinandali Palace-museumand historic winery which once belonged tothe 19th-century aristocratic poet AlexanderChavchavadze

2.2 Other destinations• Akhtala — historic mud-cure resort, not far from the

town of Gurjaani

• David Gareja Monastery Complex — Georgian Or-thodox monastery clinging onto a rocky hillside

• Kindzmarauli Winery — Kindzmarauli is a delicioussweet red wine, which has been made for centuries,but the winery is a stark lesson in underinvestment.There are no regular tours, but if you just show up,people will be more than happy to show you around.

• National Parks of Lagodekhi and Vashlovani

• Pankisi Gorge — a bit of an infamous section ofGeorgia, after Russia claimed Chechen terroristswere using it as a base for attacking Russians inChechnya, but the gorge is now safe and still home tomany Chechen refugees—probably the safest placein the world to experience Chechen culture

• Tsinandali Winery — The Tsinandali Winery ismore than just a winery, it is also a large and at-tractive estate-park, with a large manor owned byformer President Eduard Sheverdnadze.

• Tusheti — a mysterious, remote region high in themountains bordering Chechnya with ancient paganand Christian monuments; to go here is to wanderback in time hundreds of years

2.3 Understand

2.4 Talk

Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the re-gion, but much of the older generation speak Russianand the younger generation is increasingly speaking En-glish due to hostility towards Russia, and also becauseEnglish is taught in schools since independence and hasreplaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, asthey are more likely to know some English.

13

14 CHAPTER 2. KAKHETI

If you happen to speak Chechen, you could have a veryinteresting experience in Georgia’s Pankisi Gorge, wheremany Chechen refugees have set up shanties.

2.5 Get in

2.6 Get around

2.7 See

• Telavi with the palace of King Erekle II, ethno-graphic museum and the 1000 year old plane tree

• Mnastery complexes Ikalto and Shuamta near Telavi

• Basilica of Alaverdi

• Fortified church Gremi — a fantasy castle upon alarge rock in front of the mountains with a churchon top

• Archaeological Site and monastery Nekressi

• The city of Sighnaghi with Old Town, PirosmaniMuseum and fortifications, as well as the monasteryon the outskirts Bodbe

• Church of All Saints (Kvelazminda) at Gurjaani

• Cave monastery of Dawit Gareja

• Napareuli wine cellar

• Ninotsminda Monastery

• Pankisi Gorge

• Tusheti with the historic towers

• Natural Parks of Lagodechi and Vashlovani

• Ruins Udscharma (on the road to Gomboripass)

• Twins old cellar

2.8 Do

2.9 Eat

• Kachreti Champion (კაჭრეთის ჩემპიონი).Restaurant is located right on the Kakheti Highway.It offers local Kakhetian cuisine. It has open-areaseats. The food is delicious but buying wine is notworth it. 10 USD per person. (updated Oct 2015)

2.10 Drink

Great drinking opportunities await visitors to Kakheti.Some wineries (especially the Teliani Tsinandali Winery)will give nice, commercial tours to anyone who shows up,whenever they show up, which include wine tasting. Asa matter of fact, if you go to any of the wineries and askfor a tour, you will get one, although they may not bevery professional about it (and may not charge you any-thing). Because nearly all of Georgia’s high quality wineis exported, and because there are not many tourists inKakheti, it can actually be impossible to buy wine directlyfrom smaller wineries (even under the table!). Wineriesthat are not licensed to sell directly to visitors should havean official store nearby, but be sure to call ahead of timeto make sure that it is open.At Tsinandali, they want you to pay (separately) for: (1)looking at the garden (2) viewing at the wine museum (3)20 GEL fixed price and quantity of wine tasting (there isno choice to try fewer/more wines and/or quantity). Tsi-nandali estate has no sign! But, just 200 to 300 metresfrom Tsinandali is Shumi vineyards who provide compli-mentary wine tasting and their wine museum is free toview as is their property.But of course the best drinking opportunities are in thehomes of the ordinary people of Kakheti. Nearly everyhousehold has its own homemade, usually delicious wine.If you are the least outgoing and speak either Georgian orRussian, chances are you will get invited into someone’shome for wine and food—do not pass this up! Your hostmay also offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageouslypotent vodka distilled from grapes, which you may indeedwant to pass up.

2.11 Sleep• Lopota Lake Resort and Spa (ლოპოტა), Na-

pareuli, Lopota Valley, Kvareli, ☎ +995 32 2 400400, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 12PM,check-out: 12PM. This resort is in the beautifulLopota Valley, surrounded by ridges of the Cau-casian mountain range, and it has a recreation areastretched over one million square meters. (updatedOct 2015)

2.12 Go next• Head southeast past Lagodekhi to enter the beautiful

Sheki Region of Azerbaijan.

Chapter 3

David Gareja Monastery Complex

David Gareja (Georgian: დავითგარეჯისსამონასტრო კომპლექსი, Davit'garejis samonastrokomplek’si, sometimes spelled Davit Gareja) is a rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex located inthe Kakheti region of Georgia, on the half-desert slopesof Mount Gareja, some 60–70 km southeast of Georgia’scapital Tbilisi, and partially located in Azerbaijan.

3.1 Understand

Although most of the complex is in Georgia, part of thesite is in Azerbaijan, and the exact border is still the sub-ject of a dispute between Georgia and Azerbaijan.

3.2 Get in

One can go there by car, by taxi, or using a travel agency,e.g., based in Tbilisi. There is also an inexpensive (25 laritour) shuttle bus Gareji Line going daily from and backto Tbilisi from 14th of April to 15th of October.

3.2.1 By car

There are two options to get there: either via Sagarejo(with a road in an acceptable state), or via Rustavi, whichoffers an amazing view on the industrial desert of this for-mer factory city, but at the price of a road in a very badstate (4-wheel drive only). In both cases, make sure youhave a good GPS software, as the road signs are almostnon-existent (slightly better via Sagarejo).

3.2.2 By taxi

Two options:

• Chartering a taxi from Tbilisi; this may cost at least100 lari, including the 2 or 3-hour waiting time inthe monastery.

• Going by marshrutka (e.g., the one heading toSighnaghi) until the crossroad of Sagarejo; from

there, charter a taxi, which may cost around 50-60lari. This option will for sure work during the highseason, but can be more challenging in winter time.

In Tbilisi, Rest Hostel and Tours can organize half-daytrips to David Gareja.

• Rest Hostel and Tours, 68 Dimitri Uz-nadze str., Tbilisi, ☎ +995 598 111469, e-mail: [email protected]. The driver willalso accompany you for the walk around themonastery.+phone=+995 599 164249; 598111469Gocha 100 lari for 1-3 persons by 4-wheel drive,150 lari for up to 1-7 people in a minivan MitsubishiDelica 4-wheel drive..

3.2.3 By travel agency

Many travel agencies (e.g., in Tbilisi) can organize a one-day or half-day tour to the monastery. But it may be muchmore expensive than chartering a taxi yourself.

3.3 Get around

No entrance fees.Be aware that it is often windy; so during winter be sureto wear warm clothes.There are no toilets on site; however, some 100 metersbefore the entrance (the “church shop”), there are somepublic toilets on the left (small house with a red roof).

3.4 See

The main monastery is right behind the small parking lot.You can visit most of it; the rooms not allowed to touristsare clearly marked with “no entrance” signs, in both En-glish and Georgian. See the tomb of the first monk tohave lived there (St. David Garejeli).Then, you can follow the path starting right behind thechurch shop, that goes on the top of the small mountain.

15

16 CHAPTER 3. DAVID GAREJA MONASTERY COMPLEX

David Gareja, a rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery com-plex

There, you have a wonderful view towards both Geor-gia and Azerbaijan. And you will see many troglodytechurches, some of them with paintings from the 11th and12th centuries. Total time: about 1h30, using a sometimesteep path.

3.5 Do

3.6 Buy

The church shop at the entrance of the site sells somereligious objects.

3.7 Eat

There are no places to eat nor drink around. Bring yourown food!

3.8 Drink

3.9 Sleep

No accommodation here.

3.10 Connect

No Internet. However, there is some phone network…partially coming from Azerbaijan.

3.11 Go next• Rustavi - a post-Soviet upcoming city, 30 km W

• Tbilisi - the capital, 70 km NW

• Telavi - Alaverdi Cathedral and Castle, 70 km N

• Sighnaghi - fortress and convent in the country’ssmallest town, 50 km NE

Chapter 4

Sighnaghi

Old town

Town streets

Sighnaghi (Signagi) (Georgian: სიღნაღი) is a town inGeorgia’s easternmost region of Kakheti and the admin-istrative center of the Sighnaghi District. It is one of thecountry’s smallest towns with a population of about 3000.

4.1 Understand

Sighnaghi has recently undergone a fundamental recon-struction program and has become an important center ofGeorgia’s tourist industry. Although for Sighnaghi itselfhalf day of sightseeing will be more than enough, but thistown is probably the best base for exploring the region ondaily trips. You can follow the road from Sighnaghi to

Telavi via Gurjaani visiting wineries on the way, escapefor a day to Kvareli lake resort or Lagodekhi Nationalpark, go visit David Gareja monasteries on Azerbaijanborder.Do not expect wild night life here. Sighnaghi is the placeto drink local wine and enjoy delicious Kakhetian food inone of the many restaurants.

4.2 Get in

• Marshrutkha station (behind the police buildingand the Populi). Public toilets right on the square.

• From Tbilisi marshrutkas run daily every odd hour7 am - 5 pm, the last one leaving at 6 pm, from Sam-gori station. Travel duration is 1h45, cost 6 laris (asof 2014). To Tbilisi they leave at 7am, 9am, 11am,1pm, 4pm, and 6pm every day. It is highly advisedto book tickets back from Sighnaghi in advance (buyyour ticket from the small kiosk on the Marshrutkhastation’s square), even a few hours before, since allmarshrutkha are usually full.

• There are also marshrutkhas every hour to nearbyTsnori, from where you can get a marshrutkha tomany Kakhetian destinations.

• Marshrutkas to Rustavi daily at 07:00 and 09:15.

4.3 Get around

4.4 See

• Sighnaghi town wall (Take the cobbled road downto Tsnori, enter through the tower at the arch.). Sigh-naghi’s fortifying wall (XVIII century) is one of thebiggest in Georgia, its area occupies 40 hectares.Town wall has 23 towers, each one named for anearby town, and 6 gates, its width is 1.5 m, height4.5 m and total length is 4.5 km. A small section of

17

18 CHAPTER 4. SIGHNAGHI

Facing the Greater Caucasus

The Monastery of St. George at Bodbe

the wall has been restored for tourism. You can en-ter this portion through the tower at the gate on theroad to Sakobo/Tsnori where there is also a restau-rant. This “tourist track” as the signs call it, will spityou out on the same road, above where you entered.

• St. Giorgi church. XVII century

• St.Stephen church (take the road to the left of HotelSighnaghi at the highest square. The church is upthe road on the right.). The church tower commandsan excellent view of Sighnaghi’s surrounding areasand tourists can climb over the fortifications. Thereis often an old man here who tries to extract a fee

from visitors, but there is no price for admission tothe church or the tower. −.

• Pirosmani museum (Neighboring the square at thesummit of Sighnaghi, can be reached by taking thestairs to the left of the large building with a clock-tower.). 11:30-18:30. The ground floor holds an im-pressive exhibit of archeological artifacts, many ofwhich were discovered locally. The upper floor fea-tures 16 original paintings by the famous Georgianfolk artist Nikolos Pirosmani, as well as a gallery forspecial exhibitions. 3 GEL, 1 GEL for students.

• Bodbe Monastery (2 km outside of Sighnaghi, 25mins of walking). It is one of the most importantplaces of pilgrimages. St.Nino (IV century apostleof Georgia) is buried here. Monastery itself wasconstructed in the end of V century by VakhtangGorgasali. And then reconstructed in XIX century.

• St.Nino spring (If you go down the hill from BodbeConvent you'll find St.Nino spring.). You can washyour self in holy and allegedly healing water here.

4.4.1 Further afield

• Sunday market in Bodbiskhevi, village of Bod-biskhevi, adjoining Tsnori (Marshrutkhas to Tsnoricurrently are not running from Sighnaghi on theweekends. You can hire a taxi to take you to themarket and bring you back for 15 gel or less if notshared with other passengers.). morning. The largestmarket in the region, Bodbiskhevi offers the tra-ditional Soviet Sunday market day experience. AtBodbiskhevi market the prices and variety of goodsare unmatched, selling such things as fresh produce,meats, cheeses, crafts, clothes, livestock, and houseand farm goods.

• Khornabuji fortress (SE 40km, near Dedoplit-skaro village). This is an ancient fortification on therocks, first mentioned in V century. It was invadedby Mongols in XIII century.

4.5 Do

• Pheasant’s Tears Restaurant, Wine Bar, andFine Art (close to Populi, on the road to Tbil-isi). Pheasant’s Tears wine bar offers wine tastingsand interesting takes on traditional Georgian cui-sine with an eye towards wine and food pairings. Amust-see for wine tourists, as the winery producesorganic wine made in the traditional qvevri methodand focuses exclusively on Georgian varietals. Theirrestaurant and wine is considerably more expensive

4.9. SLEEP 19

than other restaurants. Pheasant’s Tears can also or-ganize wine tours throughout the region or even ar-range an acclaimed folk ensemble to provide Geor-gian polyphonic song during your feast. Pheasant’sTears also sells traditional and antique Georgian car-pets, as well as fine art painted by the primary part-ner in the winery, a graduate of the Surikov Institutein Moscow. English and Russian friendly.

4.6 Buy

• The Knitting Ladies (On the cobblestone road to-ward Tsnori). In a small section of Sighnaghi, sev-eral ladies offer a picturesque array of knitted goodsfor sale for astoundingly cheap prices. Here you caybuy Georgian socks with traditional patterns and lo-cal wool, hats, scarves, slippers, and baby booties.1-20 gel.

4.7 Eat

• Host of Sighnaghi, Baratashvili str., first restau-rant you see entering Sighnaghi coming from Tbilisi.Delicious khinkali, mtsvadi and other Georgian spe-cialties.. For full meal plus wine you shouldn't paymore than 15-20 gel per person.

• Nikala (Across from the clocktower building).Nikala boasts excellent Kakhetian food and some ofthe best khinkali and mtsvade in town. Their menuincludes several more rare Kakhetian delicacies thanmost restaurants in the area. English friendly.

• Pancho Villa (From the highest town square, takethe lower road to the right of Hotel Sighnaghi, to-wards Tsnori). Pancho Villa may be one of the few,if not the only, Mexican restaurant in Georgia. Therestaurant does an excellent job at recreating Mexi-can flavors and dishes with Georgian ingredients andmentality. They also offer the most exotic liquors inSighnaghi, and the only margarita for miles. Thefood here is more expensive than other restaurants,but the gastronomical variety they offer is invalu-able. Make sure you at least stop by for their incred-ible desserts and a Mexican hot chocolate!

4.8 Drink

4.9 Sleep

There are plenty of home-stays in Sighnaghi as well ashigh class hotels.

• Hotel Maia, st gieorgy street 7, ☎ +995 99554371,e-mail: [email protected]. a really niceplace with hospital hosts. 15 $ per person (inclbreakfast.

• Hostel Tura (Hostel is located 3 km outside Sigh-naghi in Qedeli neighborhood. Follow the main roadto/from Tbilisi then turn to unpaved road when yousee a sign Hostel Tura. Follow that road for about500 meters and you'll find it), ☎ +995 555 61 66 11,+995 599 479470, e-mail: [email protected]: 24/7, check-out: 24/7. 20 gel/ person,breakfast included.

• Hotel Mate (Manana’s Guesthouse), Gorgasali Str,20 (From the main square go towards St GeorgeChurch, at the fork turn left to pass through the gatein the old city wall. Right after that turn right andfollow the road untiil you reach the last house onthe left - that’s the hotel.), ☎ +995 57 40 20 80,e-mail: [email protected]. This is agreat guesthouse with a homey atmosphere. Therooms are clean and comfortable, some of them witha great view of the valley and the mountains. Thereis a large dining room downstairs, where the guestscan hang out and have some wine. For additionalprice Manana, the hostess, can cook a hearty break-fast or a traditional Georgian dinner. There is alsoa garden in the back where one can enjoy fresh airor try home-grown grapes. The guesthouse is closeto St George Church and other touristic attractions.It’s suitable for young travellers, as well as familieswith children. 25-30GEL per person.

• Nato & Lado Guesthouse, Pirosmani Str. 5 (CityCenter, a bit uphill), ☎ 599 212 988. Get your wel-come drinks, some home made wine, chacha and acoffee, in this nice Guesthouse. Traditional Kakhetifood is available on request, 5GEL for breakfast and10GEL for dinner. It is a nice, clean and comfort-able place, with Wifi, a computer on request and hotshower, run by the English speaking Nato. Nato orher father Lado can take you in her car to her ownvineyard and around local sights in Kakheti. Be-ware, there are two hotels at the same address... takethe left one with the green entrance! 10GEL fordorm - 15GEL per person for private room.

• Dodo Guesthouse, Baratasvilli Str. 16 (City Cen-ter, on the main street from Tbilisi), ☎ 551 22 1617. The old woman is friendly but does not speakEnglish. Coffee and tea is for free and Wifi is avail-able. 10GEL for dorm or on the terras - 15GEL perperson for the nicer rooms with balcony.

• David Zandarashvili’s (Hotel Family), 11 Gior-gisminda St (the right track down from the mainsquare; turn left under the archway). A charm-ing homestay run by a very kind and welcom-ing English-speaking family. Terrace overlooking

20 CHAPTER 4. SIGHNAGHI

Kakheti. Lovely rooms. Dinners (optional, extra)are a communal affair and a great way to meet othertravelers. 15-20 GEL without meals, 35 with break-fast/dinner.

4.10 Connect

4.11 Go next• David Gareja Monastery Complex (50km) - a rock-

hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex. Canbe reached by taxis or organized tours, no publictransport available.

• Dedoplistskaro - nearby village with nice church, ina close proximity to Khornabuji fortress

• Gurjaani — one of the centres of Georgia’s wine in-dustry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dor-mition (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museumof Local Lore and History, and Museum of NatoVachnadze. Close to the historic mud-cure resort ofAkhtala

• National Parks of Lagodekhi and Vashlovani

• Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a convenientbase for exploring the region’s wineries, castles, andmonasteries

• Tsnori - small nearby town with transportation to allKakhetian destinations

Chapter 5

Telavi

Telavi

Telavi is a city in the province of Kakheti in the countryof Georgia.

5.1 Get in

There are 3 marshrutka stations.

• The main marshrutka station (in the Southernpart, on the top of Alazari avenue).

• Marshrutkas heading to Alaverdi (from the mainmarshrutka station cross the road, take a narrowstreet for 20-30 meters, and there is a small parkinglots with further marshrutkas).

• Marshrutkas heading to Tbilisi (walk 200-300meters from the main marshrutka station directionNorth (i.e., bottom) of Alazari avenue. The stationis a bit hidden shortly after the traffic light, on theleft).

From Tbilisi, marshrutkas depart more or less hourly (atleast 9am and 10am, but there many more throughout theday) from the Ortachalla station (in front of the station).Price: 10 GEL (June 2015) Duration: 2h30 (the high du-ration compared to the small distance explained by thefact that the marhshrutkas do not use the direct road, butgo almost until Sighnaghi before heading to Telavi).

Although Sighnaghi and Telavi are close to each other,there are only 1-2 marshrutkas a day, so check the sched-ule beforehand.

5.2 Get around

The city is small enough to be walkable. However, vis-iting the neighboring sites requires the use of furthermarshrutkas and/or taxis.Whereas seeing one or two sites (e.g., castle + Alaverdicathedral) can be a one-day activity from Tbilisi, it is bestto stay several days in Telavi to fully enjoy the surround-ings.

5.3 See• Telavi castle (city center).

• Church of St. George

• Plane tree is a huge old tree that supposedly canmake wishes come true.

5.3.1 Alaverdi

To get there, take marshrutka bound to Alaverdi from thesmall marshrutka station in front of the main marshrutkastation on Alazari avenue. Price: 1.30 Lari. Dura-tion: about 30 minutes. Departs more or less hourly.To get back, wait in front of the cathedral for the nextmarshrutka.

• Alaverdi Cathedral. Built in the 11th century thisis the second highest cathedral in Georgia. Free en-trance..

5.3.2 Tsinandali village

It’s about 8 km eastward from Telavi. To get there takemarshrutka from the main marshrutka station (0.5 GEL)or take a taxi (5 GEL).

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22 CHAPTER 5. TELAVI

• Tsinandali Gardens. 10:00 - 19:00 (winter time10:00 - 17:00). The residential palace of theChavchavadzes family. It has a charming garden ofa medium size. 2 GEL - entrance to the park; 5 GEL- entrance to the park + ticket to the museum (incl.guide service); 7 GEL - the same as previous one +1 glass of wine; 20 GEL - the same as previous one+ 6 wines for tasting..

• Winery “Schumi” (200 m before entrance to Tsi-nandali Gardens). They offer wine tasting which in-cludes tasting of 3 wines, costs 15 GEL. There also ashop selling their own wine with prices 10 - 35 GELper bottle.

5.4 Do

• Hike toLagodekhi park into the subtropical foreststo find one of most beautiful waterfalls in Georgia.there are some hostel available in the park. Can seebears, dears, leopards if you hike in the early morn-ing.

• The wine route.

5.5 Buy

Different sorts of wine in the small wineries as well atmanufactures, handmade crafts are very beautiful, takesome picture in the local gallery. This said, Sighnaghi is(even) more famous for wine.

5.6 Eat

Several restaurants on the main street, majority of themlocated on the basement level.

5.7 Drink

Kakheti is Georgia’s most famous wine region, so Telaviis perfect for sampling some. The tourist information(along Erekli 2 street) has an overview of all the winecellars and companies in and around Telavi, and maps ofthe region if you have your own car.A good starting point is the shop close to the big Planetree and the statue in Telavi itself. The staff speaks fluentEnglish, they sell wines from a number of wineries andthey have information and prices for different tastings youcan do. They can also organize a driver to take you there.

5.8 Sleep

There are several homestays on Nadakhvari street, and ifthey are full they can usually organize for you to stay ata neighbours’. 25GEL per person without, and 30GELwith breakfast.

5.9 Connect

5.10 Go next• Sighnaghi

• Tbilisi

Chapter 6

Kartli

Kartli and the surrounding regions

Kartli is a large region in central Georgia.

6.1 Cities

• Tbilisi

• Gori

• Gudauri

• Kazbegi

• Khashuri

• Mtskheta

• Rustavi

6.2 Other destinations

• Ananuri

• David Gareja — a 6th century cave monastery on amountain lying just meters away from Azerbaijan,with beautiful frescos

• Dmanisi archaeological site — a bronze age settle-ment and the 1.8 million year-old fossilized remainsof the first human in Europe have been discoveredhere

• Uplistsikhe — a 3,600 year old Silk Road cave citythat was a major regional center of Caucasian paganreligion

• Mount Kazbeg — one of the highest mountains inEurope is also home to one of the most spectacularlysituated monasteries in the world

• Shida Kartli — is a region (Mkhare) in Georgia.

• Trialeti Nature Park, Nichbisi-Didgori-DidiToneti Botisi

6.3 Understand

6.4 Talk

Outside of Tbilisi and Mtskheta, you should not expect toencounter many people who speak any Western Europeanlanguages. Georgian is the principal language throughoutmost of Kartli, but there is a significant section of south-ern Kvemo Kartli (around Gardabani), where most resi-dents are Azeri speakers and you may be able to commu-nicate effectively with knowledge of Turkish. SpeakingRussian will help best in areas where ethnic minoritieslive, where it is the lingua franca. It is spoken to var-ious degrees by most older people, including by many

23

24 CHAPTER 6. KARTLI

taxi drivers, but this is no longer to be completely reliedupon. The younger generation is increasingly speakingEnglish due to hostility towards Russia, and also becauseEnglish is taught in schools since independence and hasreplaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, asthey are more likely to know some English.

6.5 Get in

6.6 Get around

6.7 See

6.7.1 Itineraries

• The Georgian Military Highway — one of theworld’s more spectacular roads, the highway cutsthrough the Greater Caucasus and was built by theRussian Empire in the 19th century to facilitate itsconquest of the Caucasus

6.8 Do• Ski in Gudauri

6.9 Eat

6.10 Drink

6.11 Stay safe

6.12 Go next

Chapter 7

Gori

View of Gori from Goris Tsikhe (Gori Fortress)

Gori (Georgian: გორი ) is a city in the Shida Kartli re-gion of Georgia. It is most famous (or infamous) for beingthe birthplace of Joseph Vissarionovich Jughashvili, bet-ter known as Stalin. Today, surprisingly, it does not lookmuch different from when Stalin ruled the USSR. Goriis also located a short drive from Uplistsikhe, an ancientSilk Road cave city and former regional center of paganworship.The name Gori may look and sound like the plural formof the Russian word for mountain (горы, GO-ry), butthe name of Gori, incidentally meaning hill (singular) inGeorgian, is much older than the first Russian contactwith the Georgian kingdoms in 1500s.

7.1 Understand

7.2 Get in

Many marshrutkas run daily between Tbilisi’s Didubemarket and the central square of Gori. A more expen-sive, yet still reasonable option, is to hire a taxi.

7.3 Get around

A tourist information office, which hands out a leafletwith all the twelve sights of Gori and a map is located be-

Map of Gori

hind the Stalin Museum (10:00, summer to 20:00, winter18:00).Everything that a tourist would want to see within Gori iseasily accessible on foot; the city center is compact.To get to the nearby Uplistsikhe complex, however, it isbest to hire a taxi. Taxis are easy to find around the mainsquare and drivers will be willing to wait for you while youexplore the Uplistsikhe complex so that they can drive youback to Gori once you have finished. The whole taxi ride,including waiting, should not cost more than 25 lari anddrivers will go as low as 15 lari if you are a hard bargainer.Public transport to the modern Uplistsikhe village ismuch cheaper at 1 lari each way. Buses go from StalinAvenue. A train departs to Uplistsikhe village from Goriat around 10AM and returns around 5PM. A bus alsomakes the trip, departing Gori’s bus station once around9AM and again at noon, returning around 3PM. Once inUplistsikhe village it is a walk of 700m across the bridgeover the river to the Uplistsikhe complex.If you are driving, head south in Gori on Stalin Ave acrossthe Mtkvari River and turn left on the second main cross-street (not the one running right along the river). Thisroad will take you through the village of Khidistori, whereyou should try to maintain a straight course, bearing to theleft if at a fork, and past the village you should approach

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26 CHAPTER 7. GORI

Uplistsikhe. If you are feeling lost, ask anyone for direc-tions (try “sahd-ah-rees uu-plis-tsi-khe?") and they willpoint you right.

7.4 See

7.4.1 The Stalin Cult

The house where Stalin (supposedly) was born

Giant statue of Stalin in front of Gori’s city hall before removal

Unlike the majority of Georgia, Gori is full of people whostill revere their home-town boy who made such an indeli-ble mark on human history. The principal attractions (aswell as the principal revenue earners) within the city aremonuments to Stalin and they are all located on or nearby

Famous “Profile” rock that looks like a face at Uplistsikhe

Church built over ruined pagan temple of the Sun God, Uplist-sikhe

the main square along Stalin Ave. Having visited Geor-gia and not having seen the birthplace of the Great Manis like going to Agra and not visiting the Taj Mahal.

• Stalin Museum, 32 Stalin Ave, ☎ +995 270 2752 15, e-mail: [email protected]. 10AM–6PM. The Stalin Museum is the highlight of a visitto the city of Gori. Behind its faux-Venetian fa-cade is an impressive museum filled with parapher-nalia and media documenting the life and career ofI.V. Jughashvili. The museum’s portrayal of Stalin isone-sidedly nostalgic, which can be jarring for vis-itors, but the exhibits are actually quite well doneand there are ample Georgian babushkas throughoutthe museum who will be more than happy to elab-orate on the exhibits and answer questions. Unfor-tunately, the exhibits are overwhelmingly in Russianand Georgian, to the disadvantage of most Westernvisitors. But the main show requires no language—Stalin’s death mask. Stalin’s bronze death maskis not so exciting in and of itself, but the lightingand bizarre, personality cult-chic, red velvet dis-play will surely elicit goose bumps. At the ticketoffice, ask about an English or German-speakingguide. Guided tours start regularly. They are some-times available and will often show you the inside ofStalin’s home and train car. 10 L. for foreign tourists

7.4. SEE 27

(1 L. children), cottage and railway coach 5 L. extra.

Outside the museum taxi drivers hussle for tours to Up-listsikhe.

• Stalin’s Birthplace:

If we are to believe the plaque, Stalin’s birth housenow resides within a cage of neoclassical Doric columns.There is not much here for the visitor other than a creepyphoto opportunity and the plaque which reads in bothRussian and Georgian:

• Stalin Statue

Few of the many statues of Stalin throughout the formerUSSR have survived to this day and Gori’s is certainlyone of the most magnificent and well-kept. This largestatue long stood in front of Gori’s city hall, located upStalin Ave. from the end of the main square, opposite theStalin Museum, until a bush-league surprise removal inthe middle of the night by the current pro-Western gov-ernment (over presumed objections by Gori residents andofficials). The statue is being re-erected in the park be-fore the Stalin museum. There are two other Stalin stat-ues in Gori: a replica of the main statue is in Stalin Parkand the second—of Stalin as a young man—can be foundbeside Gori State University.

7.4.2 Uplistsikhe

Square

GrandGate

Minor gateRound temple

and theritual well

Towerat minor

gateLiff-sidetemple

Temple withcaissons

“Apothecary’s”

10 m (33 ft)“Hall of Tamara”

Three-sided basilica“Nice temple”

Temple ofMakvliani

North

North-Western gate

Grand cellar

Churchof Prince

Single-column hall

North-Eastern gate

Stairway leadingup from the gate

Main road

Tower-chapeland built-in

towers

Thefortifications

Grand temple

Stairs

The inaccessiblecave

The Churchof Virgin

Not excavatedsection

Main square

Longtemple

Tunnel

Three-wallchapel

AltarsDwellingsWine pressesSacrificial pits

map of Uplistsikhe

Uplistsikhe (უფლისციხე—The Fortress of the Lord) iseasily one of the oldest existing cities in Georgia, althoughit is now uninhabited save for tourists. Founded in thesixteenth century BC and carved out of rock, this wasa bustling city over 3000 years ago and was, before theintroduction of Christianity in the fourth century, a ma-jor regional center of Caucasian pagan worship. After

Saint Nino converted King Mirian II of Iberia, the pa-gan temples of Uplistsikhe were sacked and the city wentinto long-term decline. Its decline was hastened by dev-astation at the hands of the Mongols in the 12th century,although it remained inhabited, serving as a stop alongthe Silk Road until the 15th century.Highlights include: a Hellenistic amphitheater overlook-ing the Mtkvari river where residents of Uplistsikheonce enjoyed Greek-style performances, a functioning9th century church built atop the ruins of an ancient pa-gan temple to the Caucasian sun god, a once pillared seatof kings, and a fun cave tunnel leading out of the cityto the riverside. Also be sure to note the round storagespaces once used for wheat and the shelf-like spaces formedicinal herbs—a veritable Bronze Age pharmacy!Uplistsikhe is of considerable historical interest and isproperly enjoyed with a guide. Chances are good thatyour guide will find you before you ask (there is not muchalternative employment in this area) and there is a goodchance of finding an English-speaking guide on site. Besure to negotiate prices with the guide though, and don'taccept the first offer. Entry fee to the site is 3 lari (1 larifor children), the receptionist will try to sell you leafletsand books but don't fall for it as she is trying to rip youoff. The guides sell the same books more cheaply.Uplistsikhe suffered long years of neglect and vandal-ism and is currently undergoing significant restoration asa UNESCO World Heritage Site. Accordingly, certainareas may be closed off from direct contact during yourvisit, although all sites will still be viewable.It should cost 10 lari to get a taxi one-way from Gori tothe Uplistsikhe complex. Buses also go from Gori to Up-listsikhe village on the other side of the river, 700m fromthe Uplistsikhe complex. These run fairly frequently andcost 1 lari. The bus from Gori leaves from the bus sta-tion. Ask someone which minibus to get it (there was noEnglish sign); someone in the ticket office guided me toit. Getting a bus back to Gori is very simple (just walkalong the main street of the village until you see a groupof people waiting by the road, just near the point whereit meets another road).

7.4.3 Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle)

Goris Tsikhe stands at the heart of the city atop a largehill and is the only structure in town that could dwarf theStalin statue. According to locals, Goris Tsikhe’s mostnotable moment in world history occurred in the first cen-tury BC, when it was conquered by the Roman GeneralPompeii. The current ruins are more recent, however,having been built after the Mongol invasion. There isnot much to see inside the ruined castle’s walls, but thereare nice views of the city and the surrounding dark greenplains of Shida Kartli. The approach to the ruins was re-cently repaved and the surrounding area cleaned up, butthe site remains free and the only price of admission is

28 CHAPTER 7. GORI

the short, steep walk up the path.

7.4.4 Gori Jvari (Gori Cross)

A view of Gori Jvari from nearby mountain ridge

The church at Gori Jvari stands on an outcropping ofrocks and can be seen from practically anywhere in Gori.Originally built in the 12th century, it was burned downby the Turks, rebuilt, and destroyed again by an earth-quake in 1920. The current church was built in the 1980s.On days commemorating St. George (November 23 andApril 23), Gori residents flock to the church with sac-rificial sheep. The sheep are walked around the churchthree times, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition,are taken just off the church grounds for slaughter. Ona clear day, the view of the Caucasus from the church isspectacular.The moderate hike is approximately three hours roundtrip. To reach the trail head, walk south along Stalin Av-enue until you cross the river. The road will cut to theright and then cross the railroad tracks. On the other sideof the tracks, turn right then take the first left and then thewindy path up the hill that is immediately on your right.This twists up the hill. If you find a graveyard on yourleft, you are going in the right direction. There are morehiking options along the mountain ridge above Gori Jvariand there a number of ruined churches scattered throughthe area.

7.5 Do

• Historical EthnographicMuseum, 12 Kirion II St(Located on a side street a two-minute walk directlyeast of the Stalin Museum. There is a sign in En-glish pointing you towards it, and take the first al-ley to the right.), ☎ +995 8 370 27 28 67, e-mail:

[email protected]. The EthnographicMuseum houses cultural and historical exhibits, in-cluding ancient archaeological artifacts, weapons,national costumes and textiles, traditional jewelry,and furniture. A good place to get a feel for theGeorgian way of life in past eras. Guided commentsavailable in Russian and in English. 3 lari (May2013).

• The Great Patriotic WarMuseum, 19 Stalin Ave,☎ +995 270 27-27-12. 10:00 to 18:00 except Mon-day, summer season only.. The Museum has aunique mural outside. Inside is a collection of pho-tographs and memorabilia, such as medals, someequipment, personal effects, and an interesting ex-hibit showing Gori and the region’s participants. Asection on the 2008 invasion has been added. Free.

• GoriAcademic Theater, Chavchavadze St, ☎ +995270 273740. Offers plays in Georgian and Russian,

• Gori Stadium, at the edge of Stalin Park onChavchavadze St. Offers occasional soccer games.1 lari.

• Stalin Park, along the river south of ChavchavadzeSt. The park has a statue of the great man, avary,cages with brown bears, a few aging rides, a Ferriswheel, and a paint ball range. On summer evenings,it is often crowded with people and a good place forpeople watching.

7.6 Buy

There are a growing number of shops in Gori wheretourists can find Georgian crafts and gifts more cheaplythan in Tbilisi. The Stalin Museum offers a limited num-ber of kitschy souvenirs in their main lobby. Small shopsare also popping up in the city center. One good bet isthe underground pedestrian tunnel below Stalin Square.Shop No. 14 in the underground offers a variety of hand-made Georgian crafts made by local street children at aGori-based NGO.Icons and other religious paraphernalia can be purchasedat the shop beside the Cathedral of the Nativity of theVirgin. These can make for interesting gifts. Shops alongChavchavadze Street (running perpendicular to Stalin Av-enue) sell Georgian jewelry and icons as well.Along Stalin Ave. several late night stores sell essentialsand foodstuffs.

• Central Bazaar, Chavchavadze St. The place togo to buy goods, albeit with a lot of local fla-vor. Food, fresh produce, stationary, electron-ics/adaptors, clothes, shoes, etc.

7.8. DRINK 29

• Grocery Store Evropa, 26 Chavchavadze St, ☎+995 270 27 56 65, e-mail: [email protected]–10PM. One of the best-stocked grocery storesin the city center, currently undergoing an expan-sion. It has phone cards, water, soda, sweets, toi-letries, cleaning supplies, pre-made meals for lunchon-the-go.

• Grocery Store Sameba. A recently renovatedgrocery store, good for water, soda, pastries, andkhachapuri

7.7 Eat

• Atrium, 6 Stalin St (Walk south on Stalin St., about5 mins from Stalin Square, on the left.). Quickly be-coming a local favorite, the Atrium offers traditionalGeorgian food and a pleasant atmosphere. The ser-vice is amongst the best in town. 10-15 lari.

• Restaurant Dzmobis Dukani, Queen Tamar St.Typical Georgian cuisine with large private diningrooms. The restaurant is locally known for its beefstroganoff. 5-10 lari.

• Orbi’s Restaurant, 78 Queen Tamara St. A localfavorite, offers a wide selection of Georgian foodand inexpensive locally-brewed beer. There is alarge outdoor patio; inside, it’s best to ask for a pri-vate dining room-the music can be unbearably loud.10–15 lari.

• Restaurant Imereti (Located next to the theater.).

• Intourist Cafe, 26 Stalin Ave. The main diningroom is located inside the Intourist Hotel but maybe unavailable because of private parties. A secondentrance is located beside the hotel (walking towardthe Stalin Museum) with a secluded outdoor patio.The selection is not as wide as Orbi’s, but the qualityis comparable. 10–15 lari.

• Cake House, 22 Stalin Ave. Aside from a large se-lection of delicious cakes, the cafe offers khacha-puri, pirozhki, and pizza. 5 lari.

• Coffee House, Stalin Ave. Despite the name, thecafe only offers two types of coffee. There is adecent selection of other foods, however, includingbliny, salads, and pizza. 5–10 lari.

• Read Cafe, 10 Stalin Street, ☎ +995 555 5365 33, e-mail: [email protected]. 10AM-12Midnight. Non-smoking restaurant and café onthe main avenue of Gori. Salads, pizzas, some Geor-gian dishes, desserts. Drinks include a selectionof Althaus teas, coffee, alcoholic and non-alcoholicbeverages. 5-15 lari.

• The Pub, 3 Chitadze st (In the Old Gori districtnear the medieval castle), ☎ +995 (0) 370 27 3405. 9.00 am - 2.00 am. Has an interesting interior,very friendly environment, excellent service, and de-licious food and drinks, including interesting cock-tails. 5-15 GEL.

7.8 Drink

There is not much nightlife in Gori and the bars andrestaurants are basically one and the same. Almost all therestaurants listed above offer Russian and Georgian beersas well as Georgian wines of varying quality. One stand-out is Orbi’s Restaurant, which offers a local brew for 70tetri (about 30 Euro Cent) a pint. In the summer, beertents pop up around town and offer the usual selection.But to really enjoy a summer evening in Gori, it’s bestbuy a bottle of beer or wine at a store and join the crowdsof young people at the birzhas by the Stalin Museum andStalin Park. Some of the nicer stores in town are begin-ning to offer imported beers, but be sure to check theexpiration date on the bottle.

7.9 Sleep

Gori is conveniently only about an hour away from Tbil-isi by marshrutka, so it is possible to visit Gori and Up-listsikhe as a day trip. There are not many commercialopportunities for overnight stays, though the options areimproving. Staying in Gori does present a cheaper alter-native to Tbilisi, and can be a pleasant change of pacefrom the capital.

• Hotel Intourist, 26-32 Stalin Ave. A typical So-viet hotel with typical dour Soviet service and roomsthat look unrenovated since the Khruschev era. Wa-ter and electricity are not always available. On thesecond floor, Rooms No. 1 & No. 2 have been ren-ovated (50 lari - more if you are non-local/Russian);the rooms on the third floor, while cheaper, are lessthan desirable. Hotel Georgia in north wing of thesame block. 50 lari and below.

• Hotel Victoria, 76 Queen Tamara St, ☎ +995 (32)95-12-72. The best hotel in Gori. Built in 2000,it has modern rooms with air conditioning and tele-vision. Conference facilities are available. Orbi’sRestaurant is next door. Accepts major credit cards.60 lari and above.

• Guesthouse Luka, 19 Aghmashenebeli St, Tsmin-datskali, ☎ +995 370 27 87 58, +995 598 55 20 53.A 2nd floor apartment with clean rooms, hot waterand internet access. Toilet flush by water bucket.Hosts speak Russian and sufficient English. Makesure to ask for a receipt if paying for more than

30 CHAPTER 7. GORI

one night, otherwise you may be asked to pay again.No doorsign, entry is the door under the balcony.25GEL/person.

• Guesthouse Tamazi, Rustavi St. 11. 10 minwalk from the Stalin museum. The rooms arevery tidy and comfortable for 25 Lari per personincluding breakfast. The family is very friendlyand hospitable, they speak Georgian and Rus-sian and can host up to 3 people. Contact:Tamazi Kharibegashvili, +995 598307326 +995370275707 25 GEL/person.

7.10 Connect• Internet Cafe@ENTER, Chavchavadze St. 9AM–

9PM. The best of the two internet cafes in Gori, butexpect to be surrounded by adolescent boys playingCounter Strike. The connection is reasonably fast andthe staff are helpful. 1 lari/40 minutes.

• Internet Cafe/Computer Store, Stalin Ave.10AM–7PM. Smoky, dark and generally unpleas-ant. Only go here if you're in a bind. The computerstore in front offers a limited selection of computersupplies.

7.11 Respect

This is an odd point, but one that deserves attention: rel-atively few people in the world “cherish” the memory ofone of the 20th century’s greatest mass murderers, JosephStalin, but most that do live in Gori. Try to avoid deni-grating their hometown hero. Gori is a small, poor cityand its residents really do not want to listen to foreigners“attacking” their “heritage.”Visitors to local churches should respect Orthodox cus-toms. Women should wear longer skirts and cover theirhead (either with a hat or with a head scarf). Somechurches will provide this for you. Foreigners are gen-erally welcomed, but be mindful of those worshiping.

7.12 Go next

Taxis are most easily requested by phone (# is written ontaxis, 1km - 0,6Lari). They're also hailed by approach-ing bored looking men sitting in cars around the city;if you have any trouble, just ask anyone, “Sahd ah-reestahk-see?" and they will get you a ride (picking taxi ona street costs extra 1 Lari). Marshrutkas back to Tbilisitake off approximately every half-hour from Gori’s busstation located beside the central bazaar (3.50 lari for bus,4 lari for marshrutka; 1.5 hours). If you've missed theTbilisi-bound marshrutkas ask for taxi vans near theatre

(Tsabadze st.) or near VTB bank. Expect to wait for 3-5passengers to fill van, price - 5 Lari (1 hr drive). To reachhighway you have to use taxi. Taxi rides from the centerto the highway generally cost 2 lari; alternately, you canstop city marshrutkas Nos. 6 or 24 along ChavchavadzeStreet and ride to the highway for 40 tetri.If you're traveling west, there are daily direct buses andmarshrutkas to Kutaisi, Borjomi, and Batumi. Timeta-bles are posted in the bus station. All westbound vehiclespass through the transport hub in Khashuri, so you cantake a marshrutka to Khashuri departing every half hour(2 lari, 1 hour) and transfer to another one from there.The Tbilisi-Batumi night train (15-25 lari to Batumi, 7hours) passes through Gori at 11:30PM. Tickets can bepurchased only one hour in advance, so be sure to showup to the train station early.There are also hourly north-bound buses during the dayfrom the main bus station to the villages north of Gori onthe road to Tskhinvali, the capital of South Ossetia. How-ever, since the South Ossetian conflict in August 2008,crossing the border is very difficult, and there are secu-rity concerns in the area around the border.

Chapter 8

Gudauri

Gudauri (Georgian: გუდაური) is a ski resort in theKartli region of Georgia.

8.1 Understand

8.2 Get in

The Georgian Military Highway links the town to Tbilisi(120 km, ~2 h) in the south. Heading north the road runsto Kazbegi, the Russian border and then Vladikavkaz inRussia’s North Ossetia.

8.3 Get around

8.4 See

8.5 Do

8.6 Buy

8.7 Eat

Do: Ski

8.8 Drink

8.9 Sleep• Sports Hotel Gudauri (Gudauri 4702 Kazbegi Re-

gion, Georgia), ☎ +995-32-202900, fax: 955-32-20-2901, e-mail: [email protected]. This is a skilodge with amenities like a swimming pool, sauna,indoor tennis courts, and a bowling alley. The rateper night with all meals included ranges from 102-546 Lari.

8.10 Connect

8.11 Go next

31

Chapter 9

Mtskheta

Mtskheta (მცხეთა), 15 km north of Tbilisi, was the cap-ital of the ancient eastern Georgian kingdom of Iberiafrom the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD. It isof extraordinary importance to the Georgian people andlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was here thatGeorgia adopted Christianity in AD 334 and it remainsthe headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church. Mt-skheta is of primary interest to anyone interested in Geor-gian history or Orthodox Christianity.

View of Mtskheta with the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Gamsakhurdia street

9.1 Get in

Mtskheta lies at the junction of the Georgian MilitaryHighway and the main road that connects Gori with

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral interiors

Jvari Monastery

Tbilisi.

9.1.1 By train

• Train station (W 1.5km of city center. It’s possibleto walk there or get on a public marshrutka waitingnear the station).

Mtskheta lies on the Tbilisi-Kutaisi railway and thus anytrains connecting these cities will pass Mtskheta.

32

9.4. DO 33

9.1.2 By taxi

You can take a taxi from Tbilisi or book a guided tour. Tomake sure you can get back to Tbilisi without problemsget a phone number of a cab company before heading toMtskheta, they will send someone to pick you up for theway back.

9.1.3 By minibus

Marshrutkas run regularly every day of the week betweenTbilisi’s Didube market and the main street in Mtskheta.From the Didube metro station, you walk out and aroundthe one-story shops that are ahead and to the right. In thatlot, there is a 'cash desk' where you can buy a ticket forthe marshrutka. The cost to Mtskheta is 1 GEL per per-son. You will need to pay attention for when you're nearthe historic center of Mtskheta because the marshrutkascontinue to the Mtskheta bus station which is a few kilo-meters north of Mtskheta’s cathedral. Note that there arefewer marshrutka drivers operating on Sundays and thatthis mode of transportation therefore becomes less de-pendable and more crowded.

• Bus stop. It’s possible to catch a marshrutka goingto Tbilisi here.

9.2 Get around

Mtskheta is small enough that it is possible to see the en-tire town on foot. The one exception to this rule is Jvarimonastery, which is far from the town center and locatedon top of a mountain. As there is no public transport toJvari, it may be best to hire a cab in town.

9.3 See• Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (The Life Giving Pillar

Cathedral). Svetitskhoveli is one of the most sacredplaces in Georgia and, along with Jvari Monastery,the clear highlight of a trip to Mtskheta. It wasfounded in 1010, built on the site of Georgia’s firstchurch, and contains the graves of the ancient Geor-gian kings, including Sidonia, who was said to havebeen buried holding Christ’s robe. There are many(unaggressive) beggars at the entrance gate. free.

• Jvari Monastery (on a cliff above Mtskheta). The6th century monastery. It is the culmination of anumber of artistic and architectural aspiration inearly Christian Georgian architecture. The viewfrom above is great. Be sure you travel there whenthere’s clear weather and before dusk. It’s a fairly farto walk, so a taxi for ~20GEL including wait time isprobably the best option

• Samtavro (Place of the Ruler) (to the north up themain road, within easy walking distance from theSvetitskhoveli complex). According to legend, St.Nino actually lived on this site and prayed within thesmaller of its two extant churches. This small churchdates from the 4th century. The larger church on thissite was built in the 11th century and contains thegraves of Mirian, the Georgian king who adoptedChristianity, and his wife.

• Bebris Tsikhe (The Elder’s Fortress) (further upthe main road from Samtavro). The ruins of BebrisTsikhe are fun, if a bit dangerous, to climb on forviews overlooking Mtskheta and the valley formedaround the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. free.

9.3.1 Around town

• Shio Mgvime Monastery (Shio Cave Monastery)(NW 12 km). Spectacular 6th century monastery.Its main church is of 11th century. Fantastic viewsover the city.

• Zedazeni Monastery (NE 10 km, on the top of themountain, closer to Saguramo village). Church builtin 8th century. Views over Tbilisi.

• Armaztsikhe-Bagineti Archaeological Site (onthe right bank of the Mtkvari. Access to the exca-vation site is signposted on the regional road south ofMtskheta.). The main fortress of the ancient townof Mtskheta was located at the high point above theriver in strategically good position. The excavationsof Armaztsikhe-Bagineti were prepared recently forvisitors and posses explanations in English. Archae-ological investigations began in 1943 and three maincultures were identified: the oldest finds were datedto the 1st century BC to 2nd century AD, the cen-tral findings on the 3rd-5th centuries, and the latestto the 6th century. Consequently Armaztsikhe wasdestroyed by the Arabs in the 8th century. Thereare a royal sarcophagus, vestiges of the ramparts,a fortified tower and supporting pillars, foundationwalls of the palace, a bath house, a wine cellar, apre-Christian temple and a canal system. Free en-trance..

9.4 Do

9.4.1 Events

• If you happen to be in Mtzkheta in October, do notmiss the Georgian Air Balloon Open Competi-tion. For more information check out the Aeronau-tics Club page.

34 CHAPTER 9. MTSKHETA

• Mtskheta City Festival is held annually on 14 Oc-tober around the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Folkdances, music, crafts and religious events all happenthere.

9.5 Buy

There are some traders and a small shop in front of theSvetitskhoveli Cathedral where you can buy souvenirs anddrinks.

• There is also a relatively large grocery store("უნივერმაგ" or "Универмаг") (located north ofSamtavro on the main road (between Samtavro andBebris Tsikhe)). where you can buy cheap basicfoods and drinks.

9.6 Eat

There are several cafes in Mtskheta, but one deserves spe-cial recognition: Cafe Guga. It has indoor and outdoorseating—the outdoor seating is especially nice in warmweather as each party will have their own private dining“hut.” The Georgian cuisine available is outstanding andcosts far less than a comparable meal in Tbilisi. It’s al-most worth it to come from Tbilisi to Mtskheta just fordinner here!

• Another extremely popular place is “Salobie” (onthe way to Mtzkheta to Tbilisi). It’s a large restaurantwith both outdoor and indoor seating areas and thefood is exceptionally good.

• Restaurant. Rather big restaurant with mediocrefood. 8-13 GEL.

9.7 Drink

Those who want to visit discos and nightclubs must driveto Tbilisi.

9.8 Sleep

Mtskheta is an easy and exceptionally rewarding place tovisit. The accommodation here is cheaper and generallybetter than the budget accommodation on offer in Tbilisi,and the easy mini bus connection to Didube metro station,makes it a good alternative place to stay.

• Guesthouse Lizi, Agmashenebliz 52. Clean, com-fortable rooms in a family-run B&B. Free internet.

Good food, and within easy walking distance of allsights in Mtskheta. Very pleasant and quiet place tostay. 30 min. by bus to Tbilisi Didube metro station.30 Lari per person including breakfast and dinner.

• Mtskheta Sanapiro Guest House, Sanapiro Street6, 3300 Mtskheta, ☎ +995 597182244. Owneris extremely charming and very kind. Spaciousrooms with magnificent view from the balconies toJvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, moun-tains and rivers. Delicious breakfast. Guest Househas fantastic location, peaceful and quiet.

9.9 Go next• The Georgian Military Highway runs north through

the mountains to the Russian border. The next size-able town north from Mtskheta is Dusheti

• Gori, to the west, is easy to reach

• Tbilisi

Chapter 10

Rustavi

Rustavi is a city in the Kartli region of Georgia.

10.1 Understand

Rustavi (რუსთავი) is a post-Soviet upcoming city of100,000 people. With a new town square, a theatre in theprocess of being renovated, things are happening in thisformer industrial town. Only 25 minutes from Tbilisi,packed full of Soviet architecture, surrounded by aban-doned factories, derelict Soviet-era parks, and dusty hills,it’s something different.

10.2 Get in

There are loads of marshutkas going to Rustavi. As of1 February 2012, a marshrutka ride between Tbilisi andRustavi costs 1.30-1.50 GEL. From Tbilisi, marshrutkasload at the Station Square (Sadguris moedani) metro sta-tion and also at the Politeknikuri metro station. They willall have a sign reading რუსთავი (Rustavi) in their wind-shield.At Station Square, the Rustavi-bound marshrutkas can befound parked behind the cluster of stores directly in frontof the metro entrance/exit.From Politeknikuri, the Rustavi-bound marshrutkas willbe loading just outside the northeast exit of the metro.They will be waiting in the thin parking lot adjacent tothe university.On their way to Rustavi, these marshrutkas will invariablytake the main riverside thoroughfare (President HeydarAliyev Embankment/Gorgasalis St). If you see one com-ing, just wave at it. It will stop if there’s room.The marshrutkas will run down the main street in Rus-tavi (Megobroba Street) upon entering town. You willknow when you are in Rustavi when you see hundreds of9-story, Soviet-style apartment buildings absolutely ev-erywhere. Just yell out “Gaacheret” for the driver to letyou off. Anywhere is a good place to stop, really.Marshrutkas from Tbilisi to Rustavi begin their routesearly in the morning and run until midnight (at least at

the Politeknikuri and Station Square sites).

10.3 Get around

Rustavi is easily done by foot. In addition, Rustavi hasmany marshrutka routes covering the length and breadthof the city. A marshrutka ride has the flat rate of 50 tetri.The #1 and #14 marshrutkas run the main road connect-ing Old Rustavi and New Rustavi. Make sure there is asign in the windsheild saying “pirdapir” (პირდაპირ), lestyou take the super scenic routes.

10.4 See

The town square is quite nice, there’s a river, and plenty ofcrumbling apartment buildings to wander past. They're litup at night, which looks quite nice. Nothing like a paintjob. There’s a beautiful theatre as well.

10.5 Do

For a Western traveler, the most striking thing about Rus-tavi is its purely Soviet aesthetic. That said, many West-erners find that the best thing to do is to simply walkaround. Rustavi is largely untouched by tourism, so theobserver can see Georgian city life in a very pure form.Go to the cinema, the theatre, check out a cafe, drinksome beer.

10.6 Buy

Rustavi has two bazaars in town. There is the old bazaar,located incidentally in Old Rustavi, and there is the newbazaar, located in New Rustavi.To get to the old bazaar, simply take any #14 marshrutkaheading towards Old Rustavi (southeast/away from Tbil-isi).

35

36 CHAPTER 10. RUSTAVI

The new bazaar is bigger, newer, and cleaner. It can bereached on foot or by marshrutka. By foot, start withHotel Rustavi (Rustavis Sostumro). From the intersec-tion with Hotel Rustavi, walk with the hotel to your back,walking north. You will reach the bazaar in 10 minutes.You can also take a marshrutka to the new bazaar. Ifyou are starting east of Hotel Rustavi, flag down the #1marshrutka that does NOT have the პირდაპირ (pirdapir)sign in its windshield. If you are starting out west of HotelRustavi, flag down the #19 marshrutka that does NOThave the პირდაპირ (pirdapir) sign in its windshield.

10.7 Eat

Rustavi has its fair share of Georgian restaurants tuckedinconspicuously all over town. The standard fare ofkhinkali, khachapuri, lobio, is all available. The pricesare generally the same across the board.For American fare, try “Hollywood” at the city plaza(meria) in Old Rustavi.

10.8 Drink

Georgian wine and chacha can be found at almost everyrestaurant and convenience store around town.გუდა ბუდა (Guda Buda) great place to grab a coffee orbeer and wireless internet. It is located in New Rustavi at2 Megobroba St.A particularly nice establishment to find Georgian spiritsis at ღვინოს სახლი (ghvinos saxli or wine house). It isowned by an English-speaking Georgian man whose staffis very helpful in picking out a great bottle of Georgianwine or chacha. And the price is right. It is found inNew Rustavi on Megobroba Street (the main road) justwest of the ELIT ELECTRONICS store and just east ofa yellow and red-painted apartment building. It is housedin a round yellow building on the south side of the street.

10.9 Sleep

The main hotel in town is the auspicious Hotel Rustavi.It is located in New Rustavi about halfway to Old Rus-tavi on Megobroba Street (the main drag). It is easy tospot, as its triangular architecture is the only break in themonotonous apartment blocks all around it.Otherwise, Rustavi is close enough to Tbilisi that youmight find more scenic and comfortable digs there.

10.10 Connect

10.11 Go next

Getting back to Tbilisi is easy. There are Tbilisi-boundmarshrutkas passing down the main street constantly.To catch one of these marshrutkas, simply stand any-where along Megobroba Street (Rustavi’s main road) andflag one down. Any marshrutka going to Tbilisi will sayთბილისი (Tbilisi) on the top on its windshield sign. Thebest places to catch marshrutkas is from a bus stop, be-cause the marshrutka will slow down significantly, givingyou a chance to read the windshield sign.HOWEVER, all of these constantly-passing Tbilisi-bound marshrutkas are going to different places in Tbil-isi. To know where each Tbilisi-bound marshrutka is go-ing specifically, the details will be listed underneath theword თბილისი (Tbilisi).The marshrutka going to Politeknikuri (metro) will havea blue and white windshield sign. Underneath the wordთბილისი (Tbilisi), it will say აჭარა (Achara).The marshrutka going to Station Square (metro) willhave a Tbilisi metro icon at the bottom with the wordსადგურის (Sadguris) next to it.Other marshrutkas going to Tbilisi will are going to ისანი(Isani), where there is a metro, and there is the raremarshrutka headed to Liberty Square--it will say ვაკე andთავისუპლების on the sign.Marshrutkas running from Rustavi to Tbilisi begin quiteearly in the morning, and taper off around 10-11pm.

Chapter 11

Shida Kartli

Shida Kartli (Georgian: შიდა ქართლი, meaning “Up-per Kartli") is the part of Georgia’s Kartli region that liesto the south of South Ossetia. Gori is the principal cityand administrative center of the region.

11.1 Cities

• Kaspi (კასპი k'ah-sp'ee)

• Kareli (ქარელი kah-reh-lee)

• Khasuri (ხასური khah-soo-ree)

• Gori (გორი goh-ree) — the administrative center ofShida Kartli and Stalin’s hometown; Shida Kartli’smost accessible and famous tourist sites (in partic-ular, Uplistsikhe are all located in and around thisprincipal city

11.2 Other destinations

• Uplistsikhe — a 3,000 year old cave city on the SilkRoad

11.3 Understand

Shida Kartli is predominantly inhabited by ethnic Geor-gians and shares its culture closely with the neighboringregions. Its former northern part, South Ossetia, has al-ways been culturally distinct and is now a de facto sepa-rate state from Georgia.

11.4 Talk

Georgian is the main language, but a large minority alsospeaks Russian.

11.5 Get in• Marshrutka: Marshrutkas run frequently from

Tbilisi’s Didube market to Gori. Tskhinvali is alsoconnected to Gori. Less frequent service is availablefrom Kutaisi.

• Taxi: Taxis to the Gori region can be hired on thecheap from Tbilisi’s Didube market. For a signifi-cantly higher price, taxis will take travelers to otherdestinations within Shida Kartli.

11.6 Get around• Public transport: It is possible to flag down the local

buses and marshrutkas (and cars willing to pick uphitchhikers) run frequently along Shida Kartli’s mainnorth-south road. For any destinations off the mainroad, it is advisable to go to the local bus station earlyin the morning to inquire about service.

• For higher price (although still cheap), it is possibleto hire a taxi from virtually anywhere in the region toget to the main cities. To get to smaller destinations,it is best to go to the local bus station to see if any taxidrivers are interested. If only making a day trip to asmall destination, it is fairly easy to hire a driver forthe full day at reasonable rates (no more than $30).

11.7 See

The most interesting sites in Shida Kartli are unquestion-ably the amazing, ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe nearGori, and the Stalin Museum in the center of Gori—avisitor to the region should skip neither. Gori has sev-eral other interesting historical sites, including a RomanEmpire-era fortress, Gori Jvari (a small mountain topmonastery), and other Stalin-related sites (being, as it is,Stalin’s hometown).

11.8 Do

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38 CHAPTER 11. SHIDA KARTLI

11.9 Eat

11.10 Drink

11.11 Stay safe

Southern Shida Kartli is a perfectly safe travel destination,but it is generally inadvisable to travel much farther norththan Gori.

11.12 Go next

Gori the main hub for regular connections heading southtowards Georgia’s main east-west highway. Going fromShida Kartli to Tbilisi is straightforward. Travelers wish-ing to head west towards Imereti and Kutaisi, however,should plan to go to the bus station early as there is con-siderably less traffic headed in this direction.

Chapter 12

Stepantsminda

Holy Trinity Church in the mist

Stepantsminda (Georgian: სტეფანწმინდა; formerlyKazbegi, Georgian: ყაზბეგი) a town in the north ofGeorgia, popular for the trekking opportunities in thevisually spectacular surrounding mountains, its views ofthe mighty Mount Kazbeg, and for the beautiful viewfrom the town of the Holy Trinity Church outlined againstMount Kazbeg itself.

12.1 Understand

The town of Kazbegi—officially named Stepantsminda(სტეფანწმინდა: st'eh-pahn-ts’meen-dah), but betterknown under the old name of Kazbegi) is a mountaintown on the Georgian Military Highway. The town is10 km south of the border with Russia, which is openagain for some nationalities. On the western side of theriver, the town is known asGergeti (გერგეტი: gehr-geh-t'ee), but for all intents and purposes of a visitor, it is es-sentially one town.

12.2 Get in

Mashrutkas leave more or less hourly the Didube bus sta-tion of Tbilisi several times per day. From the Didubemetro station, go down, turn right, cross the underway,cross the first parking lot (full of marshrutkas), and the

marshrutkas to Kazbegi are in the second parking lot.Fare: 10 Lari. Duration: 2h45.If you have a bunch of people in your party, you can al-most always find a driver hanging around the marshrutkawho is going there anyway, and hitch a ride for afare lower than the total your group would pay on themarshrutka.To get to the Sno Valley take a jeep from Kazbegi. It’s along and pretty scary way but really worth it.

12.3 Get around

The town is easily covered on foot.

12.4 See• Gergeti Trinity Church (გერგეტის სამების

ეკლესია: gehr-geh-t'ees sah-meh-bees ek'leh-see-ah), also known as Tsminda Samebis Church, tow-ering over the city at a height of 2170m. Freeentrance. No smoking, no photography inside themonastery. Decent clothes required.

• Alexander Kazbegi Museum

• Sno Valley: Juta town.

12.5 Do

39

40 CHAPTER 12. STEPANTSMINDA

12.5.1 Gergeti Trinity Church

Hiking

Hiking is the best option, since you enjoy the view. Thiscan be done throughout the year. It takes between 1 and2 hours one way, and the difficulty depends on the path.Although the easiest way is very easy, keep in mind thatthere is more than 400 meters to climb. All three are easyto follow.

• By following the road: after the bridge, turn left,and follow the road until the end, about 6km further.Duration: about 2 hours.

• By the (relatively) easy trail: after the bridge, turnleft, and follow the road for about one kilometer, al-most at the end of the small village. You will seea sign for cars to turn right; don't turn right, but gountil the end of your street, about 100 meters. Then,turn right, walk 10 meters, turn left, and walk about500 meters. Then you will meet the road again; turnleft, follow the road for about 2 kilometers, until thetrees suddenly disappear (and you have a wonderfulview on Mount Kazbeg). You will see a path on theleft; this is quite steep, though not difficult. In win-ter, avoid this part (keep going on the road). After5 minutes on this path, you will reach the “summit”,and see the church. Just go to the end. There aregreen/blue signs at each crossroads, so the path isvery easy to find. Duration: 1h45.

• By the steep path. After the sign for cars to turnright, don't turn right, but go until the end of yourstreet, about 100 meters. Then turn left, and walkup! This path is very steep, and cannot be used inwinter. Duration: 1 hour.

By taxi

Many taxis (mostly in the main square) offer a return tripto Gergeti Trinity Church from Kazbegi for 40 Lari. Thisis almost a scam, since this is a mere 6km from the city,and it is much nicer to climb yourself (see above). Butif you are old, or in a hurry, why not. Try to bargain asmuch as possible!

12.5.2 Other outdoor activities

• Hike further into the mountains via a path startingbehind the ridge to the start of the Gergeti Glacier(at 3000m).

• Climb mount Kazbeg (5033m) with a guide.

• Hike in wonderful nearby Juta valley.

• Kazbegi Marathon on September 5th, 2015

Summer flowers nearing the Gergeti Glacier

12.6 Buy

There is now a new ATM in town at the bank branchof 'Liberty Bank'. Its just two hundred meters from themain square, next to the Mini-Markets. The bank alsoexchanges money and opens around Mo-Fr 10:00 - 17:30also open Saturdays but a bit shorter. The money changerright on the main square has horrible rates.

12.7 Eat

There are few restaurants in the town, it’s easier andcheaper to get the food at your guesthouse. HotelStepantsminda has a restaurant and the hotel next dooras well.There are some small shops just of the main square, inthe direction of the 'center' (big sign on the side of thesquare).

12.8 Drink

The café Shorena’s hotel & bar restaurant (right onthe main square) has decent prices for food and drinks,and provides free Wi-Fi. English-speaking and French-speaking staff. Update: The place is rather nice but theprices are unexpectedly high and the portions are verysmall (but food itself is good as usual). For example -chicken shish costs 9 laris but only contains 4 small piecesof chicken.

12.9 Sleep

Plenty of homestays, with older lady’s swarming any ar-riving mashrutka. Expect to pay 15 GEL/person/nightfor a bed, 30 GEL to include dinner and breakfast. Mostof the cheaper guesthouses and hostels are on the other

12.11. GO NEXT 41

View back over Kazbegi

side of the river. Walk a few hundred meters north, crossthe bridge to the left and then take another left after threehundred meters.

• Hotel Stepantsminda on the main square.

• B&B Iago Arabuli in Juta ( nice homestay in remoteJuta in Sno Valley, 40 GEL per person with deliciousGeorgian food, tel 593422951.) Great starting pointfor hiking tours.

• Anano’s Guesthouse: newly added top floor withseveral rooms, private and shared bathrooms. Lessthan 5mins walk from the main square. Family pro-vides breakfast and dinner and they even pack somelunch for your day trips. 40 GEL per person. email:[email protected] phone: +995 593 3442 74.

• Rhezo Guest House, Gergeti, ☎ +995 599404090.The Rhezo guest house - very good location andexceptionally tasty food. Solo Kazbek climberschoice! 35 GEL.

• Kazbegi Mountain Hut, Gergeti Village, ☎ +99599 180806, +995 99 497764. Accommodation forclimbers; can arrange guides, horses, porters, etc.

12.10 Connect

12.11 Go next• Rent a mountain-bike (Mountain Travel Agency -

+995 55 64 92 91) and cycle towards the castle bythe Russian border, and visit the small valleys southof the town.

• Russia (but be sure that your citizenship allows youto cross the border)

• Tbilisi: marshrutkas depart from the main square.Several departures in the morning. In the afternoon,departures at 1.30pm, 3.30pm and 5pm (last one).Price: 10 Lari.

Kazbeg looming over the church

Chapter 13

Tbilisi

Tbilisi At Night

Tbilisi (Georgian: თბილისი) is the capital city of thecountry of Georgia, lying on the banks of the Mtkvaririver. The city covers an area of 726 km² (280.3 squaremiles) and has a population of approximately 1,345,000.

13.1 Understand

Location of Tbilisi within Georgia

Tbilisi lies in the centre of eastern Georgia, in the foothillsof the Trialeti mountain range. According to Geor-gian legends, it was founded in the 5th century by KingVakhtang Gorgasali who, while hunting, shot a pheas-ant which fell into a warm spring and was either boiledor healed. Either way, the king was inspired to found acity on the site, and the name of the city derives from theGeorgian word tbili meaning “warm”. Although the city

has been destroyed and rebuilt some 29 times, the layoutof the Old Town is largely intact with narrow alleys andbig crooked houses built around courtyards.

13.1.1 Climate

Tbilisi experiences relatively cold winters and hot sum-mers. Because the city is bounded on most sides bymountain ranges, the close proximity to large bodies ofwater (Black and Caspian Seas) and the fact that theGreater Caucasus Mountain Range (further to the north)blocks the intrusion of cold air masses from Russia, Tbil-isi has a relatively mild micro-climate compared to othercities that possess a similar continental climate along thesame latitudes. - The average annual temperature in Tbil-isi is 12.7 °C (54.9 °F). January is the coldest month withan average temperature of 0.9 °C (33.6 °F). July is thehottest month with an average temperature of 24.4 °C(75.9 °F). The absolute minimum recorded temperatureis −24 °C (−11 °F) and the absolute maximum is 40 °C(104 °F). Average annual precipitation is 568 mm (22.4in). May and June are the wettest months (averaging 84mm (3.3 in) of precipitation each) while January is thedriest (averaging 20 mm (0.8 in) of precipitation). Snowfalls on average 15–25 days per year. The surroundingmountains often trap the clouds within and around thecity, mainly during the Spring and Autumn months, re-sulting in prolonged rainy and/or cloudy weather. North-westerly winds dominate in most parts of Tbilisi through-out the year. Southeasterly winds are common as well.

13.2 Get in

13.2.1 By plane

• Tbilisi International Airport (IATA: TBS, Geor-gian: თბილისის საერთაშორისო აეროპორტი,Tbilisis saertasoriso aeroporti formerly Novo Alex-eyevka International Airport), Airport St (17 kmsoutheast of the city centre.), ☎ +995 32 310 265,fax: +995 32 310 322, e-mail: [email protected] new, modern terminal was inaugurated on Febru-ary 7, 2007. George W. Bush Avenue leads from

42

13.2. GET IN 43

Tbilisi International Airport entrance/exit

the airport to downtown Tbilisi.The first airport terminal building was constructedin 1952. Designed by the architect V. Beridze in thestyle of Stalinist architecture the building featured afloor plan with symmetric axes and a monumentalrisalit in the form of a portico. The two side wingsfeature blind arcades in giant order. A new terminalbuilding was finished in 1990, designed in the Inter-national style. The airport has a 3 km concrete run-way and a helipad. The terminal has a contemporaryand functional design. It is designed to provide theoptimum flow of both passengers and luggage fromthe parking lot to the planes, with a 25,000 m² totalusable area.Services: Seven food and drink outlets, four dutyfree stalls. There is an ATM and a branch of theLiberty Bank (+995 322 555500). The three mainmobile phone companies sell SIMs in the arrivalsarea.

The following airlines operate service to/from Tbilisi:Air Astana (Almaty) airBaltic (Riga), Alitalia (Rome),Arkia Israel Airlines (Tel Aviv), Austrian Airlines(Vienna), Azerbaijan Airlines (Baku), Belavia (Minsk),bmi (London-Heathrow), Czech Airlines (Prague), Don-bassaero (Donetsk), Dniproavia (Dnipropetrovsk), Esto-nian Air (Tallinn), Euroline (Almaty, Donetsk, Dubai,Kharkiv, Odessa, Vilnius) flyDubai (Dubai), GeorgianAirways (Amsterdam, Athens, Dubai, Kiev-Boryspil,Minsk, Paris-Charles de Gaulle, Tehran-Imam Khome-ini, Tel Aviv, Vienna), LOT Polish Airlines (Warsaw),

Lufthansa (Munich), Pegasus Airlines (Istanbul-SabihaGokcen), Qatar Airways (Doha,Baku), SCAT (Aktau),Sky Georgia (Batumi, Antalya), TAM Air (Donetsk,Kharkiv), Turkish Airlines (Istanbul-Atatürk), andUkraine International Airlines (Kiev-Boryspil)

• Flights to Mestia are available on Mondays,Wednesdays and Fridays from Natakhtari airfields inthe northern suburb of Tbilisi for only 65 GEL (sub-sidised by Georgean government) and also includesfree transfer from Tbilisi. Reservations are availableat Vanilla Sky agency, ☎ +995 32 242 7427, Mob.+995 599 65 90 99, e-mail: [email protected]. Itsoffice is moved from old city centre to further insuburb at 5 Vazha-Pshavela Avenue, Tbilisi, closeto Metro Medical University station. Be aware thatflights may get delayed for a few hours even in goodweather. The airline will occasionally accommodatepeople traveling from Mestia or Tbilisi, leading todelay of the flight. Flights are cancelled at least 50%of the time due to weather in the mountains; as aresult, it’s not recommended to fly to Mestia soonbefore an international departure.

Bus 37 leaves from the right corner of the arrival area ev-ery 15–30 minutes between 8:00–20:00, then every houruntil 23:00, to the city center. It travels via Avlabari,Freedom Square, Rustaveli, Republic Square and TamarBridge to the main train station (Vagzal). The trip cantake over 50 minutes. The fare is 0.50 GEL. Coins (or asmartcard) are required to purchase a ticket.Taxis between the airport and the city cost 20–30 Lari.Standard rates are listed on a board by the taxi rank asyou exit the airport, on the right hand side.Trains from the airport to the main train station cost 0.50GEL and take 35 minutes. You pay the conductor. As ofJune 2014 there are only two trains daily: at 8:45 and18:05 (vice versa at 8:00 and 17:20).

13.2.2 By train

• Main train station (თბილისი ცენტრალი; Tbil-isi Zentrali), Station Square (Sadguris Moedani)(Metro: Station Square). After an extensive re-furbishment, the lower levels are now a shoppingmall. Tickets and platforms are on the upper lev-els. (All Georgia English timetable). Domestictrains run between Tbilisi and Batumi, Gori, KutaisiI + II, Marneuli, Poti, and Zugdidi. An interna-tional train (no. 37) runs daily between Tbilisi (dep.16.30) and Baku. Trains between Yerevan and Tbil-isi operate up on odd days of the calender (dep.20:20). Coming back on even days, fares startingat 5600AMD ~$15 (Dec 2011). Tickets can bebought at the Yerevan train station, cash only. Insummer (15/06–01/10) the schedules are: Tbilisi

44 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

16:30 – Baku 09:20, 62.63 GEL 2nd class; Baku20:30 – Tbilisi 10:45, 29.45 AZN 2nd class, dailyservice. Tbilisi 21:40 – Yerevan 07:25, 46.41 GEL2nd class; Yerevan 15:30 – Tbilisi 00:12, daily ser-vice (the summer train from Yerevan continues toBatumi).

13.2.3 By bus

Lüks Karadeniz andMetro Turizm operate daily busesfrom Turkey, costing 110 Turkish liras. Bus servicesfrom Russia have been suspended. Regular buses ormarshrutkas run between Tbilisi and Batumi or Kazbegias well as Azerbaijan and locations in Armenia.

13.2.4 By minibus

Minibuses are generally privately owned vans. They op-erate at different frequencies depending on destination.They usually have leave on time, but leave earlier if filledup. From Yerevan minibuses leave the Central/Kilikiabus station from 08:30 and cost 6500 AMD.

• To Yerevan by minibus (Avlabari Metro station), ☎The seven seats can be reserved by calling +(374-94)320460 (Armenia), +(995-593) 229554 (Geor-gia). Leave at 9:00 and 17:00, duration 5 hours. 35GEL.

• To Yerevan by minibus (Main railway station).10:00 (?), 6–7 hours. depart at 9:00 and 17:00, cost35 Lari, and take 5 hours. For other options to Yere-van see at 'Bus stations’ or 'train' sections 30 GEL.

Bus stations

There are three main stations in Tbilisi.

• Didube bus station (დიდუბე), Akaki Tsereteli Ave(Metro: 'Didube' metro stop. Once at the metro plat-forms, take the train on the right (going forwards).This direction takes you to the main station and cen-ter. There are no signs in English. Alternatively buses21 and 46 go there from the city center.). North-ern and Western Georgia destinations (including pri-vate taxis to Russia, through Kazbegi) are served.It’s rather disorganised and sprawling, but you'll findminibuses to almost anywhere. 'Neo-Turs’ bus com-pany offers bus transfers Tbilisi – Thessaloniki –Athens and back, starting from here (price: 100US$). Mashrutkas to Kazbegi Mountain (hourly,Fare: 10 Lari. Duration: 2h45, From the Didubemetro station, go down, turn right, cross the subway,cross the first parking lot (full of marshrutkas), andthe marshrutkas to Kazbegi are in the second park-ing lot.)

• Samgori bus station (სამგორის), KetevanTsamebuli Ave (300 m from Metro: Samgori metrostation). For minibuses to Eastern Georgia (e.g.,Sighnaghi, every odd hour from 7:00. Price: 7 lari.Duration: 1h30)

• Ortachala bus station (Central bus station,ორთაჭალის ავტოსადგური), Dimitri Gulia St1/Vakhtang Gorgasali St (marshrutka 70, 81, 150(across Didube bus station). Minibuses from Yerevan(30 GEL, six hours), will also drop you off here.Metro: Isani metro station go down the street head-ing to South, you come across the bridge, cross itand there is on left side.), ☎ +995 32 753433 ?.Serves Southern Georgia (e.g., Marneuli) as wellas Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey and even Greece.Lines to Vanadzor and Sevan (hourly, 7.00–12.00).-It is serviced from the city by ATM inside the sta-tion. Staff speaks very limited English. No En-glish sign, but some Cyrillic signs that might helpyou. Toilets (0,20 Lari, horrible). To Yerevan:marshrutkas (6–7 hours, 30 Lari, at 7AM (?), 8h20(as of 2014) 9:00 (?), and 13:00 (?)), buses (12hours, 15 Lari).

• BetweenDidube andOrtochalla bus stations, catchmarshrutka 150.

• Marshrutka to Mestia (daily, 12 hours); otherwise,the usual option is a night train to Zugdidi and thena marshrutka to Mestia.

13.3 Get around

Tsereteli metro station

The primary transport inside and outside the Tbilisi cityare metro, buses and minibuses — marshrutka. Taxis arealso cheap, but two wheeled transport is rarely seen andpedestrians have to contend with significant neglect ofthe pavements. As far as motorists are concerned pedes-trians are allowed to use zebra crossings, but when doing

13.3. GET AROUND 45

so they don't have priority over vehicular traffic. How-ever pedestrians do have the advantage of being able tocross the pedestrian only peace bridge and travel on thecable car and funiculars.

13.3.1 By metro

Freedom Square metro station

Tbilisi Metro logo

Tbilisi has a two-line metro system, which operates from6:00 until 24:00.All signs inside the metro are in Georgian and English,but station name signs are not always visible from thetrain. Station names are also announced in two languages.There are rarely system maps on the train cars them-selves. You will be lucky to find English speakers rid-ing the Metro; you will however have better luck withRussian which is widely spoken. Take a bilingual mapwith you if you are not proficient with the local alpha-bet/pronunciation.A trip with the metro in Tbilisi costs 0.50 GEL. Butyou will have to buy a Metromoney card (2 GEL) at thecounter (more than one person can use the card). Youcan top up the card with any amount you like, and use itfor travel both on the metro and on buses. In Fall 2012,Tbilisi introduced free transfer system between metro and

buses, allowing for an hour and a half of free transfer. Itapplies across metro-to-metro, and bus-to-bus, as well asacross systems. You can use one card for multiple peo-ple, however, the second person will cost 0.50 GEL eachtime.

13.3.2 By bus

City buses are yellow, and come in various sizes. The busnumber and a description of the route are usually listed onsigns in the bus windows, but only in Georgian. The cityrecently installed electronic arrival boards, with reason-ably accurate estimated arrival times, at bus stops on ma-jor roads. The signs alternate between English and Geor-gian and display the bus number, minutes to arrival anddestination.Board through any door you like, usually the double doorsin the middle are easiest. A journey costs 0.50 GEL, andexact change is required if you don't have a touch card(which can be purchased at metro stations). Metromoneycards allow free transfers, and can be topped up at manypay boxes around the city, in addition to metro stations.Hold onto the ticket you receive on the bus; you will needto present it to the yellow-shirted ticket checkers.

13.3.3 By minibus

Minibuses in downtown Tbilisi

Marshrutkas are vans which service the side streets of thecity; they are independently owned. Like buses, the routeis posted in the front window (often only in Georgian),but marshrutkas use a different route numbering system,and the route descriptions may be more general than thebuses (e.g. “Vake” rather than a specific street in the Vakearea). The fare is (on average) 0.80 GEL. If paid with atouch card, every trip after the first one during the day isreduced to 0.65 GEL; shout “Stop” or “Gaacheret” whenyou want to get off, and hand the driver your fare on theway out. In the new yellow Ford Transit vans you can payalso with the electronic card you need for the metro.

46 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

Kura river, Tbilisi

13.3.4 By cab

Taxis in Tbilisi are typically privately owned vehicles, andare not metered. If you're going anywhere other than thenearest metro station, major hotels, or tourist destinations,or if you don't speak Georgian or Russian, it’s likely thatyour driver will stop multiple times and ask pedestriansfor directions. Even then, he may not know how to get toyour destination. If the driver has difficulty finding yourdestination, he will charge you for his trouble. Alwaysnegotiate a price beforehand, unless it is a metered taxi.Prices start at 2 GEL for very short trips. A trip in thecenter of town should rarely cost more than 3–5 GEL,and anywhere in the city should never cost more than 15GEL, unless you're going to the airport.

13.3.5 By car

End on parking is widespread, but the ubiquitous infor-mal parking attendants will help you reverse out into thetraffic; it’s all part of the service they offer in return forthe usual tip.

13.4 See

Dolmens in the Ethnographical Open-Air Museum

Freedom Square

13.4.1 Museums

There is a common English website for most museums.

• G. Chitaia Ethnographical Open-Air Museum(ეროვნული მუზეუმი ღია ცის ქვეშ), Kus Tba 1(#1Turtle Lake Road, Tortoise’s pond lane, კუსტბისგზა #1) (Bus 59 from MetroRustaveli), ☎ +995 322729045, fax: +995 32 2982133. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00; last admittance 16:00. 70 houses and thriftbuildings characteristic for the various parts of allGeorgia. 8000 household devices and samples ofcraft are shown in the museum. The museum coversthe area of 50 ha and is divided into 11 zones. Thearea is in a poor state of repair, many houses are de-stroyed and there is almost no explanation without aguide (August 2014). Adults: 3GEL; Students: 1.5or 0.5 GEL; Guided tour: 10 GEL.

• Numismatic Museum (Money Museum,ფულის მუზეუმი), 10 Rustaveli Ave./#10, Kvareli(MetroRustaveli. - Building of the National Bankof Georgia?), ☎ +995 32 2296604. Th–Mo09:30–16:30 (excluding a break 13:00–14:00)..Coins dating back to the 4th century BC, KolkhianTetries, antique coins, Arabian Dirham, coinsof then Georgian kings Lasha-Girgi, Rusudan,Demetre I, Giorgi III, also Turkish coins, PersianAbaz, Austrian and Polish Thalers.[This museumhas moved to Kvareli.]

• Museum of Fine Art (საქართველოსხელოვნების მუზეუმი), L. Gudiashvili street(ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ.), 1 (Metro Liberty Sq.), ☎+995 32 999909, fax: +995 32 2982133. Tu–Su10:00–17:00. Photographing the museum buildingand permanent exhibitions for personal purposesis permitted Adults: 3 GEL; Students: 1.5 GEL;Guided tour: 25 GEL per group of ten.

• Tbilisi History Museum (თბილისის ისტორიისმუზეუმი), #8 Sioni St.(სიონის ქ), ☎ +99532 2982281, fax: +995 32 2982133, e-mail:

13.4. SEE 47

[email protected]. Tu–Su 10:00–17:00. Adults:3GEL, School Children: 0.5GEL.

• Janashia Museum (საქართველოს ისტორიისჯანაშიას სახ. მუზეუმი, National Museumof Georgia), Shota Rustaveli avenue (შოთარუსთაველის გამზ) 3, (Metro Freedom Square200m), ☎ +995 32 2998022, fax: +995 322982133, e-mail: [email protected]. Tu–Su10:00–17:00. This museum houses Georgian andCaucasian artifacts of archeology and ethnography.A permanent exposition chronologically follows thedevelopment of Georgia’s material culture from theBronze Age to the early 20th century. The mostvaluable exhibits include Homo ergaster fossilsdiscovered at Dmanisi; the Akhalgori hoard ofthe 5th century BC which contains unique exam-ples of jewelry, blending Achaemenid and localinspirations; a collection of approximately 80,000coins, chiefly of Georgian minting; medieval iconsand goldsmith pieces brought here from variousarchaeological sites in Georgia; a lapidary whichincludes one of the world’s richest collection ofUrartian inscriptions, etc. Subsection: theMuseumof Soviet Occupation is located on the 4th floor.Adults: 5 GEL; Students: 1.5 GEL; Guided tour:10 GEL.

• Puppet Museum (Doll Museum), Shavteli N 17a(Ioane Shavteli St,17) (Metro Freedom Square), ☎+995 32 995337. Tu–Su 11:00–18:00; except Win-ter 11:00–17:00. Adults: 3 GEL; Children: 1 GEL.

• Galaktion Tabidze Museum, Marjanishvili N 4(Metro Marjanishvili). Tu–Su 11:00–17:00. Themuseum of the eminent Georgian poet, GalaktionTabidze.

• National Gallery (ეროვნული გალერეა),Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.)#11 (Metro Station Freedom Square), ☎ +99532 2157300, fax: +995 32 2982133, e-mail:[email protected]. Tu–Su 10:00–17:00. 5 GEL,tours 25GEL up to 10 persons.

• Art Academy (სამხატვრო აკადემია), GudiashviliStreet.(ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ) #3.

• The Jewish History Museum (ებრაელთაისტორიის მუზეუმი), St. Anton Catholicos( ანტონკათალიკოსის ქ.) #3.

• Children’s Art Gallery of the Chardin Univer-sity (ბავშვთა სურათების გალერეა). The mu-seum houses exhibits about 20 thousand (drawing,painting, sculpture, ceramics, woven, embroidered,metal and wood products).

• U. Japaridze House-Museum, Shio MghvimeliSt, #2 (North — Bus 6, 9, 14, 21, 31, 34, 37, 42,46, 51, 59, 61, 66, 78, 87 to 'Janashia Street', offIakob Nikoladze St).

• I. Nikoladze House-Museum, Rodin St. #6,(North — Bus to 'Janashia Street', off Petre Melik-ishvili St).

• E. Akhvlediani House-Museum, Leo Kiacheli St.#12 (M Rustaveli 200m).

• M.ToidzeHouse-Museum, Revaz Lagidze St. #1,(Metro Station Freedom Square).

13.4.2 Religious architecture

• Mamadaviti (მამადავითის ეკლესია), Mtats-minda Pantheon (on Mtatsminda hill). Constructedin 1859–1871, domed in 1879.

• Sioni Church (სიონის ეკლესია), Sioni street(სიონის ქ.) #6 (upper Kala, From Metro FreedomSquare 0.8 km South-East or from Metro Avlabari0.7 km West).

• Sameba Cathedral (Holy Trinity Cathedral ofTbilisi, Georgian: თბილისის წმინდა სამებისსაკათედრო ტაძარი Thbilisis cminda samebissakathedro tadzari), Samreklo Street (on Elia Hill. 1km north from Avlabari metro station). Constructedbetween 1995 and 2004, it is the third-tallest East-ern Orthodox cathedral in the world. Sameba is asynthesis of traditional styles dominating the Geor-gian church architecture at various stages in historyand has some Byzantine undertones. The SamebaCathedral was erected on the Elia Hill, which risesabove the left bank of the Kura River (Mtkvari) inthe historic neighborhood of Avlabari in Old Tbilision the grounds of what was once a park, and beforethat the largest Armenian cemetery in Tbilisi, a tinyportion of that cemetery now forms the ArmenianPantheon. Designed in a traditional Georgian stylebut with an exaggerated vertical emphasis, and re-garded as an eyesore by many and venerated by asmany others, the Sameba Cathedral has a cruciformplan with a dome over a crossing which rests on eightcolumns. At the same time, the parameters of thedome are independent from the apses, imparting amore monumental look to the dome and the churchin general. The dome is surmounted by a 7.5 m tallcross covered with gold. The cathedral consists ofnine chapels (chapels of the Archangels, John theBaptist, Saint Nino, Saint George, Saint Nicholas,the Twelve Apostles, and All Saints); five of themare situated in a large, underground compartment.The overall area of the cathedral, including its largenarthex, is 0.5 ha and the volume it occupies is 137m³. The interior of the church measures 56 m × 44m, with an interior area of 2,380 m². The heightof the cathedral from the ground to the top of thecross is 105.5 m. The underground chapel occupies35,550 m³. The height is 13 m. Natural materials

48 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

are used for construction. The floor is made of mar-ble tiles and the altar will also be decorated with mo-saic. The painting of the murals is being executedby a group of artists guided by Amiran Goglidze.The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedralchurch, a free-standing bell-tower, the residence ofthe Patriarch, a monastery, a clerical seminary andtheological academy, several workshops, places forrest, etc.

• Metekhi Church (“Church of Assumption”)(მეტეხის), Metekhis Rise (მეტეხის აღმართი)(Metro Avlabari). Goes back to the reign of St. De-meritus II. late 13th cent. Rebuilt 17th cent. Un-usual in design.

• Ascension Catholic Church of the VirginMary? (Tbilisi Virgin Mary Church, მარიამღვთისმშობლის ამაღლების კათოლიკურიეკლესია), Gia Abesadze St (აბესაძის ქ.) #6(Metro Metro Station Freedom Square). The churchwas built, which starts from the XIII century. Thechurch is an example of eclectic architecture andhas been built with pseudo-gothic and Barocoelements. The interior is decorated with thematicvitrages. Height: 23 m.

• Anchiskhati (“Basilica of St. Mary”) (Geor-gian: ანჩისხატი), Ioane Shavteli St, 18 (Metro Free-dom Square). Constructed began at the time ofking Dachi Ujarmeli in VI cent. This is the old-est church in town. Anchiskhati Basilica is a three-span basilica, divided by two abutments forminghorseshoe shaped conches, which indicates the an-tiquity of its construction. Originally constructed ofblocks of yellow tuff stone, the 1958–1964 restora-tion made extensive use of brick. The structure hasentrances on three sides, but today only the westernentrance is in use. Aside from the altarpiece, whichwas painted in 1683 by order of Catholicos NikolozAmilakhvari, all of the remaining paintings in thechurch date from the 19th century.

• NarikalaChurch (ნარიყალა), Orbiri St (NarikalaCastle).

• Kashveti Church of St. George (Qashveti, Geor-gian: ქაშვეთის წმინდა გიორგის სახელობისტაძარი), Shota Rustaveli Avenue (შოთარუსთაველის გამზ) #9 (MetroFreedom Square).A copy of 11th century Samtavisi church. TheKashveti church was constructed between 1904and 1910 by the architect L. Bilfeldt, who basedhis design on the medieval Samtavisi Cathedral.The construction was sponsored by the Georgiannobility and bourgeoisie. Kashveti was built onthe site of a damaged church built of brick atthe request of the Amilakhvari family in 1753.Significant contributions to the current church’sornate design were made by N. Agladze. Kashveti’s

frescoes were painted by the influential Georgianpainter, Lado Gudiashvili, in 1947. The name“Kashveti” is derived from Georgian words kva fora “stone” and shva “to give birth.” Legend has itthe prominent 6th century monk David of Garejaof the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers was accused bya woman of making her a pregnant in Tbilisi.David prophesied his denial would be proved whenshe gave birth to a stone. She did, and the placereceived the name of “kashveti.”

• Synagogue (სინაგოგა), K. Leselidze street, 4? orAbkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) #41 (Metro Free-dom Square). Functioning synagogue constructed in1910. Women and men are seated separately.

• Jumah Mosque (მეჩეთი), Botanikuri (Aban-otubani, ბოტანიკურის ქ.) #32. Turkish Sunnimosque, along the road from the Botanical Gardensto the Sulphur Baths. The usual dress code and entryrestrictions for non-Muslims apply.

• Holy Trinity Church (Old Trinity Church,ძველი სამების ეკლესია), Erosi ManjgaladzeTurn, Abashidze Street (აბაშიძის ქ.) # 4 (Metro:Freedom Square).

• Alex. Nevskiy Orthodox Church, MarjanishviliStreet, ~53.

• Armenian Cathedral of S. Gevorg(სურფგევორქი), 5 Samghebro St. (At Mey-dan Square), ☎ +995 322754111, e-mail:[email protected]. Built in 1251AD, and seat of the Armenian Archbishop ofGeorgia. Tomb of the famous Caucasian bardSayat-Nova is located in front of the church. free.

• Norashen Armenian Church (ნორაშენისეკლესია), Afkhazi Street. Boarded up ArmenianChurch, used as a library in Soviet times. Origi-nally built in 1487, with a lot of new work in themid-1600s.

• Church of Fathers’ Cross? (ჯვრის მამისეკლესია), Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) # 42.

• Upper and Lower Bethlehem churches (ზემო დაქვემო ბეთლემის ეკლესიები კლდისუბანი).

• George Church (კლდისუბნის წმ. გიორგისეკლესია), Bethlehem Street (ბეთლემის ქ.) #7.

• Michael Tvereli church (მიხეილ ტვერელისეკლესია), Zaldastanishvili Street (ს.ზალდასტანიშვილის ქ.) #38.

• Echmiadzin Armenian Church (წმინდა სერგოსეკლესია) (In front of Avlabar Metro Station). Builtin 1805, and newly renovated. free.

13.4. SEE 49

13.4.3 Other Sights

• Georgian Academy of Sciences (მეცნიერებისაკადემია), Rustaveli Square (Central Tbilisi.).

• City Hall (საკრებულოს შენობა), Freedom square(Tavisupleba square, თავისუფლების მოედანი), 2.Before City Hall stay the Monument of St. George

• National Bank of Georgia (საქართველოსეროვნული ბანკი), Leonidze Street.( ლეონიძისქ.) № 3/5.

• Children’s Palace (მოსწავლე ახალგაზრდობისსასახლე), - Shota Rustaveli Ave. #6.

• Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and PublicFigures (Mtatsminda Mountain, in the churchyardaround St. David’s Church - Mamadaviti). Many fa-mous writers, as well as the mother of Joseph Stalin,are buried here.

• Old Tbilisi (Area between Liberty Sq, slopes of thehill of Narikala Fortress and the river.). Perhaps oneof the most distinctive pleasures of walking throughthe Old City, with its old-style balconies, ancientchurches, winding streets, and charming shops. Beprepared to see a number of eclectic sights, fromthe abandoned streetcar near Erekle Street to the artgalleries of Chardini Street to the stunning modernart lining Sioni Street. Sub-neighborhoods includeSololaki, with its elegant restaurants and art nou-veau architecture, Old Tbilisi proper — with sitesranging from churches to mosques to sulfur baths,Betlemi — housing two of the city’s oldest churchesand the stunning vistas of the Narikala Fortress —and Mtsasminda, just up the mountain from Rus-taveli Avenues, a more sedate, “livable” district filledwith charming old houses and a number of fami-lies. A large section has been refurbished in recentyears turning parts into a sterile, tourist-trade andtherefore purely overly consumption attuned quar-ter. Bars and restaurants largely overpriced. EvenSegway rental is available — given the state of Tbil-isi pavements a ridiculous proposition. usually out-rageous.

• Vake Park Area, around Chavchavadze andAbashidze avenues (From MetroDelisi to South 1.5km). This is one of Tbilisi’s posher districts, home tomany expats and nouveaux riches. While not quiteas atmospheric as Old Tbilisi, Vake is home to somelovely parks, pleasant nineteenth-century architec-ture, and some of the city’s most high-end shopping,including luxury furniture store Missioni. Thereare also plenty of elegant, if understated, bars andrestaurants in this area. In Vake there are two build-ings of Ivane Javakhishvili Tbilisi state university.The university is founded by Ivane Javakhishvili in1918 and is one of the historical buildings in Tbilisi.

• Parliament (პარლამენტი), Shota RustaveliAve.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #8.

• Presidential Palace, M. Abdushevelli 1 (MetroAvlabari). Inaugurated in summer 2009, an archi-tectural monstrosity above the river, designed byItalian architect Michele De Luki. Guided toursmay be booked seven work days in advance.

• Melik Kazariantsis House (მელიქ კაზარიანცისსახლი), - Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთარუსთაველის გამზ.) #37 (Metro: 'Rustaveli').

• Shota Rustaveli monument (შოთა რუსთაველისძეგლი), - Shota Rustaveli Square (შოთარუსთაველის მოედანი).

• Academy of Sciences (საქართველოსმეცნიერებათა აკადემია), - Shota RustaveliAve. (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ), #48 (Metro:'Rustaveli').

• House of the Officers (ოფიცერთა სახლი), -Shota Rustaveli Ave. #16 (Metro: 'Liberty Square').

• Theatre and Film University (თეატრისა დაკინოს სახელმწიფო უნივერსიტეტი), - Shota Rus-taveli Ave. #19 (Metro: 'Liberty Square').

• Gudiashvili monument (ლადო გუდიაშვილისძეგლი), - April 9 Garden (9 აპრილის ბაღი)(Metro: 'Liberty Square').

• Library of the Parliament (საქართველოსპარლამენტის ბიბლიოთეკა), Lado GudiashviliStreet. (ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ.) #3 (Metro: 'LibertySquare').

• Caucasian House (კავკასიის სახლი), GalaktionTabidze Street.( გალაკტიონის ქ.) #20 (Metro:'Liberty Square' 400 m).

• Government Chancellery (საქართველოსმთავრობის კანცელარია), P. Ingorokva Street.(პ.ინგოროყვას ქ.) #7 (Metro: 'Liberty Square').

• House of Writers (მწერალთა კავშირი), I . Ac-cording Street.( ი. მაჩაბლის ქ.) #11.

• Ietim Gurji monument (იეთიმ გურჯის ძეგლი),Right bank (მტკვრის მარჯვენა სანაპირო).

• Former Caravanserai (ქარვასლა), Sion (Zion)Street. #8.

• Mother Georgia Monument (ქართლის დედა),Sololakis Alley (სოლოლაკის ხეივანი).

50 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

Ananuri’s fortress

13.4.4 Further afield

• Ananuri (N 60 km). — a castle and monasteryoverlooking the beautiful Zhinvali Reservoir

• Dmanisi archaeological site (SW 93 km). — abronze age settlement and the 1.8 million year-oldfossilized remains of the first human in Europe havebeen discovered here

• David Gareja (SE 70 km — No public transporta-tion, but chartering a taxi to and from there shouldcost around 100 Lari (including 2–3 hours on site).Ask your hotel for help.). — a 6th century cavemonastery on a mountain lying just meters awayfrom Azerbaijan, with beautiful frescos

• Gudauri (N 90 km). Ski resort

• Uplistsikhe (NW 60—km). Uplistsikhe — a 3,600year old Silk Road cave city that was a major re-gional center of Caucasian pagan religion

• Khashuri (NW 100 km).

• Mtskheta (N 10 km). A UNESCO world heritagesite, about 30 minutes by minibus

• Rustavi (SE 15 km). Sioni Church

• Sighnaghi (From Tbilisi marshrutkas run daily ev-ery odd hour 7:00–17:00, the last one leaving at18:00, from Samgori station. Travel duration is1h45, cost 6 Lari (as of 2014).). a restored winetown.

• ShidaKartli. NW ~100—km is a region (Mkhare)in Georgia.

• Telavi (NE ~100—km Marshrutkas depart more orless hourly from the Ortachalla marshrutka station.Price: 7 Lari. Duration: 2h30.). see an old fortress,the Alaverdi Cathedral, and a basis for exploring themountains of Tusheti

• Trialeti Nature Park, Nichbisi-Didgori-DidiToneti Botisi, (W 60km).

13.5 Do

• Alexander’s Garden (ალექსანდროვის ბაღი),Dry Bridge Area (მშრალი ხიდი) (Metro: FreedomSquare). A part of Park April.

Narikala fortress at night

• Sulfur Baths, Bath Street (აბანოს ქუჩა) (FromMetroAvlabari 1.0km SW). The bath district is calledAbanotubani and is on the south side of the Metekhibridge. It is easy to spot with its small domes onground level. There are several small baths offer-ing different levels of comfort. The baths are rel-atively small, and you may have to wait for a poolto become available. English service is not guar-anteed. Massages are available; however, they aremore like a washing, but well worth it for the expe-rience. You should bring your own towel and beachsandals but also they are available for a small fee.Some travelers have suggested the Royal Baths is amuch better alternative to Sulfur Baths (they are nextto each other). Sulfur baths tend to double the priceat the end of the massage and bath in spite of youroriginal agreed price. (As of 2014, Sulphur Bath isclosed for renovation). Other public bath in the areais called Public Bath No. 5.

You can find sulfur baths in other districts, for exampleclose to the metro station Marjanishvili, around the cor-ner of hostel Green Stairs, there is an old, characteris-tic bath. (#4 Kiev Street). Upstair is a men’s sauna for

13.6. BUY 51

7 lari but also a gay hangout. In the evening you canget a private bath for 10 lari and an additional towel is2 GEL. Public Pool: 3-4 GEL; Private Pool: 10–80 GELper hour; Massage 5–20 GEL.

• Turtle Lake (Kus Tba) (Take a taxi or walk upfrom Saburtalo.). This lake is located in the hillyoutskirts of Tbilisi. A popular weekend getaway forfamilies, the lake offers pedal-boat rentals as wellas swimming (deckchairs optional) for reasonableprices (swimming entry, without deckchair, is about3 Lari). Alright for a hot summer day, and offer-ing views of both the mountains and the city below.Snackbars, restaurants and fruit cocktail shakers areavailable overlooking the lake. It’s about an hour’spleasant walk from the Saburtalo district along coun-try roads, passing the Ethnographical Museum, or aten-to-fifteen minute (5–10 lari) cab ride from thecenter. While the lake itself isn't particularly nice,the views from the hike up to the lake makes it aworthwhile excursion.

• Lake Lisi (Lisis Tba), Reservoir Road (5.1km SW-W). Much further out than Turtle Lake (a cab willset you back about 10–15 lari each way), Lake Lisiis much larger and more remote, with long, windingmountain walks surrounding the lake. Unlike TurtleLake, the entire Lake Lisi is opened up for swim-mers. Be warned — there aren't always taxis waitingto take you back.

• Climb up to the Narikala Fortress (Nearest MetroMetroAvalabari.). The crumbling ruins of this once-great fortress, standing alongside the Upper BetelmiChurches and the stunning Botanical gardens, offerpanoramic views of the city below. But be warned— it’s quite a steep climb, though you could take thecable car instead. Also while the lack of bureaucracyand guard-rails can be liberating for some, you maywant to watch your step.

• Botanical garden, Sololaki St (Access viaBotanikuri St., or from above thorough the fortress.Nearest Metro MetroAvalabari.). varying with theseasons. National botanic garden of Georgia,founded 1845. Lying in the Tsavkisis-Tskali Gorgenear Narikala Fortres, is actually more of a largebadly maintained park with scenic waterfall than a“botanical garden” as there is no scientific signpost-ing available. Very little maintenance is apparent. 1GEL.

• TV antenna park (Tbilisi Tower) (high on the hill.Bus 124 or the funicular railway up fromMetro Rus-tavelli). bus until 23:00. to have fun with your kids,see the views of Tbilisi or to take a ride on the ferriswheel. The ride is 1.60 lari, and you need to buy anaccess card at a cashiers desk for 2 lari. Funicularride is also 2 lari one- way.

The Funicular reopened in December 2012

• Locomotive Stadium.

• Vake Swimming Pool, Chavchavadze Avenue(ჭავჭავაძის გამზირი).

13.5.1 Theatres

• Alexander Griboedov Russian State DramaTheatre, Rustaveli Av. 2 (M1 'Liberty Square' 200m), ☎ +995 32 293 58 11.

• Gabriadze Theatre, Shavteli 13 (M1 'LibertySquare' 500 m), ☎ +995 32 2986590.

• Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre (თბილისისოპერისა და ბალეტის თეატრი), Rustaveli Avenue(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 25.

• Rustaveli National Theater (Shota Rustaveli The-ater, შოთა რუსთაველის თეატრი), Rustaveli Av-enue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 17.

• Cinema Rustaveli (კინოთეატრი რუსთაველი),Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #5(M1 'Liberty Square' 200 m).

• Tbilisi State Conservatory (თბილისისსახელმწიფო კონსერვატორია), Al.GriboyedovStreet. ( ალ. გრიბოედოვის ქ.) #8-10 (M1 'LibertySquare' 500 m).

13.6 Buy• The Saturday flea market (Dry Bridge Mar-

ket), Dzveli Tbilisi, ~3 Zviad Gamsakhurdia NamedRight Bank (by the river on the “Dry Overpass” andsurrounding areas. From Metro Station FreedomSquare 0.6km NW). This is one of the best placesto get jewelry, antiques, and even antique swords, aswell as musical instruments and electronics. Hag-gling is encouraged, although if you speak littleGeorgian or Russian you may experience the oddjuxtaposition of bargaining for antiques using thetype-pad of your vendor’s mobile phone.

52 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• Main marketplace, ? (across the river, nearDidube). daily. for fruits and vegetables as well aselectronics and DIY/hardware-store type supplies.A further sprawling bazaar area is south-east fromthe main train station.

• Gold, Silver, Precious Stones, andOther JewelryMany foreigners visit Georgia to buy jewelry, be-cause of its cheap cost and superior quality.

• Art & Paintings – Georgian artists, such as Piros-mani, Gigo Gabashvili, David Kakabadze, LadoGudiashvili, Korneli Sanadze, Elene Akhvlediani,Sergo Kobuladze, Simon Virsaladze, EkaterineBaghdavadze, Maka Kiknadze-Kipiani and others,are famous for their work. In Georgia you will findmany various art shops, paintings and painters whosell their works on the streets, including during theSaturday antique market. Their work is amazing andprices are very reasonable as well.

• Tiflis Avenue Art center and Gallery(ტიფლის ავენიუ), 8/10 Erekle II St (MetroFreedom Square), ☎ +995 577 50 64 50, e-mail:[email protected]. Tu-Su 16.00-21.00. Thisis represents a variety of Georgian artists workingin different media. The gallery is located in an oldtown, on King Erekle II Street, where exhibitionsof art are held regularly. Tiflis Avenue also runsan online art store with the largest selection ofcontemporary Georgian art. Entrance free.

• Antiques & Other Misc. Gifts – in Georgia youwill able to find many antiques not only from Geor-gia, but Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Russianand European as well.

• Georgian Wine — Georgia is the cradle of winemaking, and with 521 original varieties of grape youwill be sure to find excellent wines.

• Cognac — Georgian cognac is unique as it’s madefrom Georgian wine.

• Mineral Waters: — Borjomi, Sairme, Nabeghlavimineral waters from Georgian resorts.

• Chacha — Grape vodka, a Georgian version ofgrappa.

• Goodwill grocery, Chavchavadze Avenue? (FromM Rustaveli 3.2km W). Second only to Prospero’sBookstore as an expat paradise, Goodwill offers anenormous range of products — mostly groceries, al-though the larger out-of-town branch stocks a widersupply — imported from the rest of Europe. FromGerman tuna fish to Italian pasta, Goodwill will sat-isfy all your brand cravings, albeit for significantlymore than you'd pay at home.

• Pixel 34, Ilia Chavchavadze ave., 34 (Bus 9, 21, 34,51, 59, 61, 85, 88, 140 to 'Children’s City Mziuri'50m). Shopping Centre

13.7 Eat

13.7.1 Georgian cuisine

Stree side stalls selling Georgian “fast food” are locatedall over the city. Some kind of hot snack will cost between0.70-2.50 L.

• Dzveli Sakhli Restaurant(Old House), 3 MtkvrisMarjvena Sanapiro (Right on the Mtkvari River), ☎+995 322 36 53 65. 12:00-24:00. Live traditionalGeorgian music and singing starts at around 18:00every day, although it’s also the perfect place fora quiet post-flea market weekend lunch. Stunningriver-views and faux-rural atmosphere — enormousportions at relatively reasonable prices. Credit cardsaccepted.

• Shemoikhede Genatsvale, 25 Leselidze St (MetroStation Freedom Square), ☎ +995 32 2439646. De-licious food cheaper than in the restaurants sur-rounding it. Khinkali are around 0.50 GEL each.Try the ones filled with potato and beef with greens(seasonings). $7-10.

• Cafe Gabriadze, Shavtelis Qucha (Right offBaratashvili street, next to the puppet theatre). For-merly the trendy “Sans Souci,” this artsy eatery(owned by master puppeteer Gabriadze himself) hasreopened after a lengthy renovation period. With aquirkily bohemian decor and inventive takeoffs ofclassic Georgian dishes (just try their lobio!), thefare here is a cut above the standard khachapuri-and-khinkhali dinner options.

• Kala, 8/10 Erekle II St, ☎ +995 899 799737.10:00–02:00. Hip cafe/restaurant with live Jazzmost evenings. Seemingly twinned with its farcheaper neighbor KGBs. We–Fi; Credit card pay-ment accepted. Food seems to have gone downhillin recent months, however, and is increasingly over-priced for the quality. 20–25 GEL.

KGB Still watching you

13.7. EAT 53

• KGBs, 8/10 Erekle II St (right next to Kala). Withthe tagline “we're still watching you,” this painfullyhip piece of Soviet Kitsch wouldn't be out of placein Williamsburg. Menu offerings include “Prole-tariat pizza” and meals advertised as “Lenin’s fa-vorite dish.” The cheque comes in vintage Sovietworking papers. Much cheaper than Kala. 15 GEL.

• Khinklis Sakhli (Khinkali Centre), 37 RustaveliAve (MRustaveli 50m), ☎ +995 893 756671. 09:30-23:30. All Khinkali, all the time. Does a wide rangeof other Georgian food too. The entrance isn't ob-vious, you have to enter an alleyway at No. 37 andthen go down some steps into a courtyard. 12 GEL.

• Machakhela, N106 Davit Aghmashenebeli Av-enue, (MMarjanishvili), ☎ +995 322 911959. 10:00till 24:00. Biggest restaurant chain specialisingin Georgian pastries, with 10 locations in Tbilisi.'Khachapuri'-traditional Georgian cheese pie, bakedin wood-fired oven. Credit cards accepted. Moreunits: 16 K. Marjanishvili, (M Marjanishvili); 23Tumaniani Str. (Metro Station Avlabari)

• Tamada, 37 Orbeliani St (Metro Technical Uni-versity), ☎ +995 322923280. 09:00–02:00. Ethno-graphic restaurant. Evenings Georgian music anddances. WiFi available. 25 GEL.

• Taglaura, Mtkvari right coast, Vakhushti Bagra-tioni Bridge, ☎ +995 555 207700. Good Georgianfood, locally brewed beer, traditional barbeque, livemusic and outdoor seating. Four locations in Tblisi.Beliashvili St. -

• Tsisqvili (Windmill), 9 Dzotsenidze St.?. Amaz-ing menu & food, superb customer service and greatdesign.

• Caravan, Purseladze Street. ? (Metro 'Rustaveli',off Rustaveli Avenue by the cinema). A travel-themed “literary cafe” with East-meets-West decor,a menu that fuses Georgian classics with MiddleEastern treats, and a whole host of travel books onthe shelves. Free wifi. 15 GEL.

• Cafe Flowers, Avlabari Ascent (in the pink houseoverlooking Europa Square. Metro Station Avlabari).Sporting the most stunning views in Tbilisi, the ter-race at Cafe Flowers (so named for the gorgeousflora that adorn the terrace and adjacent garden)overlooks the Old Town from across the river. Foodis generally good, although be wary of dairy-baseddishes lest you come down with an upset stomach.30 GEL.

• Lunch ladies, Corner of Dzmebi Zubalashvilebi Stand Laghidze (From Metro Rustaveli, turn uphill atthe big Magti store (number 22). Head uphill pastthe Music Conservatory and look for a tiny hut onthe street corner at the T-junction.). Run by three

friendly women, this tiny take-out place serves awide variety of delicious home-style salads, in ad-dition to a good selection of khatchapuri, at greatprices. Make sure to ask for a “guruli” khatcha-puri, a style served with boiled egg inside that ismost commonly made during the holidays. If you'relooking for a cheap, quick lunch but want to trysomething besides khatchapuri and lobiani, this isthe place to visit. No English, but you can see andpoint to everything. 5 GEL.

13.7.2 Asian cuisine

• Chinese Restaurant (Off Perovskaya St).

• Vong Restaurant (I. Abadshize Qucha?). Priceybut delicious fusion-Asian cuisine served in a deca-dently authentic atmosphere

• NewAsia Restaurant, Griboedov Str, 29? (Up thehill fromMetro Rustaveli at the corner of Lagidze andGriboedovi streets. Opposite of Tbilisi State Conser-vatoire.).

• Qalaquri Sushi Bar, 13 Ioane Shavteli St (Near to'Anchiskhati Church' -), ☎ +995 32 2000 260. Club:Th-Su from 20:00 /karaoke bar Daily from 19:00 /Restaurant - Daily from 11:00. Sushi + night club +Middle Eastern atmosphere, 4 floors. Cocktail Bar,and BBQ.

• Sushi Sake Bar, Besiki Street 4? (PerovskayaStreet?), e-mail: [email protected]. A bit pricey but de-pendable sushi. Service is usually nice. Same menuand management as Tokyo Restaurant.

• Tokyo (in Vake, on Abashidze Street). JapaneseRestaurant

• Baan Thai, 4 Tabukashvili St (Follow the roadleading to the Radisson and continue past the Radis-son as the road curves right. The restaurant is on theleft side of the road, if you see the back side of theOpera house, you've gone too far.). This is the mostauthentic Thai restaurant in the city, and a favorite oflocal expats. Operated by a friendly Thai woman, ithas good food and quick service, but it’s easy to missbecause it’s on an unremarkable street between theOpera house and Radisson hotel. 10-15 GEL.

13.7.3 European/American

• Cafe de Paris, Saakadze square (in the city center).Famous for its tasty salads and crepes. Nice place tospend time with friends. Outdoor garden seating.

• Cafe Canape, Abashidze Street (Vake). Reason-ably priced, charming bistro with fusion French-Georgian cuisine and a neighborhood-y atmosphere.

54 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

Definitely a brunch place for Vake’s “smart set.” Thekhachapuri is out-of-this-world.

• Hadson and Hooker, Beliashvili Street (nextto Cruise), ☎ (822)−53-10-18. Americanbar/restaurant. Live music every night from20:30. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

• Restaurant Mediterranean, 5 Irakli Abashidze, ☎22-10-15. Lunch, dinner. The lively atmosphere,authentic décor and creative cuisine all reflect theregion that inspired the restaurant. The extensivemenu has Italian, French, Greek and Spanish in-fluences. Unique dishes, fresh salads and seafood,pasta & risotto, grilled specialties and exclusivedesserts have earned “Med” an impeccable reputa-tion. The menu is complemented by an impressivewine list with a large “by-the-glass” selection and afull bar.

• Zandukeli 40, Zandukeli Street (Straight up the hillfrom the Philharmony). European bistro with anemphasis on German food. Food and service areamong the best in town, prices are very reasonable.Run by one of the longest-lasting expats in Tbilisi,Rainer Kaufmann

• Ronny’s Pizza, 3 Vaja Pshavelas (next to thearchive building in Saburtalo), ☎ 2-472-472, e-mail:[email protected]. 11:00–22:00, 11:00–23:00 Fridays and Saturdays.. Lunch, dinner, de-livery, take out and catering. Ronny’s pizza comesin personal size, regular (12 inch) or extra large(18inch) Delivery charge based on kilometers allover Tbilisi. Classic American style pizza with moz-zarella. $$.

13.7.4 Italian cuisine

• Segafredo Zanetti Espresso, 26 ChavchavadzeAve. Expensive quality coffee and Italian + Euro-pean food. WiFi.

• coffee.ge, Three locations (24 Abashidze Str., 41Chavchavadze Ave., 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave.).Pizza and other Italian food. Delivers food to yourhome. WiFi.

• Fiorino, 77 Kostava St. - Saakadze square. Fiorinooffers best pizzas in Tbilisi, one of the best carpac-cios and veal. Relaxing environment and outdoorseating.

• Il Garage, Mozashvili street 26 (50m from Vakepark). Decent versions of risotto, linguini, lasagna,and an excellent, huge antipasti misto. Pleasant out-door seating in the summer and affordable pricesyear round. Run by Alberto - a real Italian.

• Prego, Three locations (Saburtalo, intersection ofVazha-Pshavela and Pekini St.; Vake, on Paliashvili,just below the round (UN) garden and the third inthe old town, Erekle II st.). Prices are said to bereasonable and service is usually good. Look out forthe daily specials - usually a bit pricier, but worth it.

• Piano, Tabidze Street (right next to People’s). Thisnew Italian eatery feels more like a swank NewYork restaurant than a Georgian-style trattoria, withblack-and-white Botticelli-inspired wallpaper anduber-trendy minimalist light fixtures. The food isreasonably priced for the — admittedly expensive— area, but it’s good (especially the super-freshtomato-based sauces) and air-conditioned to boot.Beware of the bread; it’s so delicious, you'll be fullbefore your appetizers arrive.

• Solemio Italian Restaurant Lounge Bar, 27bMitskevich Str. - Saburtalo. Pizza and other Ital-ian food. Delivers food to your home. WiFi.

13.7.5 Other

Some outlets of sterile international hamburger “restau-rants” exist, also some “freed chicken” imitators in thecity, offering the same kind of material Americans con-sider “food” at prices which are high by local standards.

• Prospero’s Bookstore and Caliban’s Coffehouse,34 Rustaveli Ave (located in a courtyard by theentrance to the overpass near the opera, past theSony store in the direction of the Rustaveli metrostop). With wireless internet, a bucolic courtyard,and spotless furnishings, this expat bookstore-cum-coffeehouse could be located in London’s NottingHill. The English books are reasonably priced, butthe real gem is the atmosphere - a perfect escapefor when Tbilisi’s more chaotic pleasures start tobecome overwhelming. Enjoy an iced coffee ora scrumptious sandwich, effectively bilingual wait-staff, and try to strike up conversations with otherforeigners.

13.8 Drink

One is never far from a corner store opening late sellingthe bare essentials of life late into the night, which alwaysinclude booze and bread. Georgia is known as the cradleof wine. Georgian wine was and still is the best in post-Soviet culture. Georgia produces wine, and Georgiansrespect wine culture. Try one of the famous wines. Theregion which is popular for its wine production is Kakheti.This place has a great history of wine.

• Dublin, 8 Akhvlediani St (Metro Rustaveli), ☎ +99532 98 44 67. until 3:00. Irish pub with live music

13.8. DRINK 55

from 8PM-midnight. Try the meat wrapped in ba-con. 30 GEL.

• Fahrenheit, 5 Vashlovani St, ☎ +995 855 975117.Live music everyday.

• Hadson & Hooker, 67 Beliashvili St (Next toCruise), ☎ +995 55 32 83 60. American bar. Ex-otic wine tasting every Thursday. Live music everyevening/Can-can dancers/Billiards/darts

• Marco Polo, 44 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ +995 32 93 5383.

• Old London, 6 Akhvlediani St, ☎ +995 57 27 9194. Live music every evening.

• Pub Kolkheti, The left bank of the River Mtkvari,☎ +995 8 99 760654?.

• Salve, Shalva Dadiani St 15 (located in the basementof an apartment building on a street off FreedomSquare), ☎ +995 32 920131. Features a Nintendogame system. Very popular place.

• Scarlet Sails, 25 Leselidze St, ☎ +995 32 931028.On Fridays live music (light rock).

• Toucan, 8 Kiacheli St, ☎ +995 32 922554, +995 32996553. Live music performances. 30-35 GEL.

• Hangar Bar, Irakli II Street (ერეკლე II ქუჩა)(Metro Station Freedom Square), ☎ +995 551 61 1588. Irish pub run by an American couple. Very pop-ular among expats.

13.8.1 Cafés

Tblissi is the one city in Georgia where coffee vendingmachines 0.50-0.80 Lari may be found.

• Bamba Rooms Lounge, Bambis Rigi st. 12(Chardin area), e-mail: [email protected]. Thething that catches your eye first is the crystal beads.You can’t miss it; it cascades down over the bar,white and glorious. It’s just one of the highlightin an incredibly striking space, designed by youngGeorgian architects. The results form one of Tbil-isi’s most achingly fashionable lounge cafe-bars withboth inside and outside.Decent drinks are servedalongside a selection of standard European dishes.Dining here becomes more glamorous when it getsto Japanese fusion. By day it’s quite casual, a popu-lar lunch spot; by night it’s altogether different, thecrowd is glam and the door policy can be tough.

• Cafe Rustaveli, 30 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ +995 329858800?, fax: 032 935880, e-mail: [email protected]. Currently closed due to bankruptcy,but hopes to reopen following a lawsuit. More a café

for food rather than drinks, offers a wide selectionof Georgian and “western"-style food in addition toa good selection of coffee, tea, & alcoholic bever-ages. 2-4 USD.

• Entree, 20 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ 891 193968. 8:00—22:00. A great cafe with tasty pastries, good coffee,and free wi-fi. 5-10 GEL.

• Four Seasons, 4 Mickevich St (Steps from Gam-sakhurdia ave), ☎ +995 32-144440. 11:00–1:00.Cozy place with lounge-sitting rooms and unique in-terior. European cuisine. Prices are affordable andnice music is played. 15 GEL.

• Cafe Casablanca, Bambis Riga (Chardini St.Area) (Towards the end of Bambis Riga). WithHumphrey Bogart quotes on the menu and enor-mous “Casablanca” posters on the wall, not tomention the tantalizing white piano indoors, CafeCasablanca is an homage to one of cinema’s mostromantic movies. With a menu that blends retroAmericana and Moroccan cuisine, and Hollywood-price cocktails, this is one of the most atmosphericbars in the city. Live light jazz and chansons on Sat-urday.

• Elvis Cafe just opened in about July 2010 in thePhilharmonic Center (hint: take the undergroundwalkway to get over - traffic is busy and unpre-dictable). Elvis Cafe offers American, Italian,Thai/Asian fusion cuisine and sushi. They also havea bar (alcohol) and a nice selection of deserts. Foodis fast and tasty, very clean and bright. Staff speaksEnglish.

• Old City Wall Restaurant/Wine Centre, 1Baratashvili str., ☎ +995 322 99 58 57. Daily12:00–24:00/wine shop: 11:00–23:00.

• People’s Cafe and Restaurant, 10 Tabidze St(steps from Freedom Square), ☎ +995 32 45 0505,984851, e-mail: [email protected]. 11:00–2:00.A favorite place for locals and foreigners as well.Great place with terrace and lounge sitting. Win-ner of the best public place interior award in 2007.Delicious food and friendly staff – place where youcan feel at home. 10–15 USD.

13.8.2 Clubs

• Bamba Rooms Lounge, Bambis Rigi st. 7(Chardin area), e-mail: [email protected]. Aunique and vibrant premier Restaurant & DJ Bar,having one of the chic locations at Tbilisi Chardinarea, is one of the liveliest and trendiest spots at-tracting a younger, faster-living crowd and enthusi-astic clubbers. A good combination of a restaurantand a bar for around 300 people is perfect for a quiet,

56 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

romantic meal in early evenings while towards mid-night at weekends the place erupts into a wild partyzone. *bamba rooms at bambis rigi street is proba-bly the best and newest club in Tbilisi. You will feellike you're in London or New York with its great in-terior and nice lounge music and techno.

• Buddha Bar, Rikhe,, ☎ +995 322 255222, e-mail:[email protected]. 19:00–Late. Opened in March2012. Latest arm of Buddha Bar Asian-inspiredrestaurant/lounge chain. Reservations are highly en-couraged and sometimes a must. Reservations canbe called in after 12:00 daily. An excellent place forsushi and good lounge and electronic music. Expen-sive.

• Cubic, 45 Kostava Str. One of the best places forgood house music, real minimal techno and some-times some breakbeats and dnb. Entrance: 30 GEL.

• GURU Club, 12 Rustaveli Ave, ☎ +995 322983803, e-mail: [email protected]. ay,Sat, Sun 22:00-07:00. Foreign DJs and singers &G.U.R.U. show girls

• KalaKuri Restaurant/Club, 13 Shavteli St (Mtats-minda District), ☎ +995 322 996683. Club: Fri andSat from 23:00; Restaurant: 12:00–13:00; LoungeBar: 17:00–03:00. Good night club, pop, 90s andmodern music.

• Night Flight, Baratashvili Street (UnderBaratashvili bridge). Open on Fridays andSaturdays.. Supposedly has the best house, trance,dance, club music, Georgian and foreign DJs inTbilisi. Drinks are a bit expensive, but worth it.Entrance: 30 GEL.

13.9 Sleep

13.9.1 Budget

• В Тбилиси! (In Tbilisi!), Intersection Tsi-namdzgvrishvili Street ~53 and Giorgi MazniashviliSt (Around the corner of Green Stairs-hostel, onthe groundfloor behind the grey courtyard-door. -Metro Marjanishvili), ☎ +995 591 207186, e-mail:[email protected]. Homestay/hostel run byGia, a friendly elderly man who, besides this hos-tel, helps tourists to explore the wide surroundingsof Tbilisi, also with his ancient blue Moskvitch taxi.The rooms are large, the beds comfy and the sheetsand shower clean. Gia speaks way better Russianthen English though. 25 lari.

• Boombully Rooms & Hostel, Rustaveli Ave. 24(across from Opera House. - Metro Rustaveli),☎ +995 322 931638, +995 551 100172, e-mail:

[email protected]. Located in historical down-town, near many city attractions and the Old townDistrict, block away from Prospero’s Books. Theproperty is located in a historical building with manygreen, eco-friendly and sustainable elements, likevintage and re-purposed furniture. The sign on thefront of building for Boombully isn't the most no-ticeable, so watch the building addresses as you passthem.

• City Hostel Waltzing Matilda, 11, AlexanderChavchavadze str. (from Metro Rustaveli near theOpera turn up the hill and go two blocks. -), ☎ +99555 554 590, e-mail: [email protected]. Friendlypeople, amazing view of the city, free wi-fi, possi-ble airport transport for $20. dorm 17 GEL.

• Envoy Hostel, 45 Betlemi St (Off Gorgasali Mei-dan, in the Old Town area. - From Metro Free-dom Square 0.8km SE), ☎ +995 322 920111, e-mail: [email protected]. Boasting a large ter-race with a view of the city. Their staff speak excel-lent English and are very knowledgeable and help-ful. Newly renovated and clean, it has a high ratio ofbathrooms per beds. Free breakfast is offered dailyas well as Tea/ Coffee available all day. Free Wi-Fi,laundry service, airport pick up and air conditioning/central heating are just some of the conveniences of-fered. They also offer tours around Georgia as wellas Armenia (including a weekly tour that takes youfrom Tbilisi to Yerevan with sightseeing and a bbqlunch!). They also have a hostel in Yerevan (rankedas Best Hostel in Armenia by HW 2010&11).

• Fox Hostel, 30 Griboedov St (Metro Rustaveli,walk south, just 50 m up the hill, opp. Radis-son Blue Hotel), ☎ +995 322 102726, e-mail:[email protected]. Renovated 2nd floorapartment in old building (sign on balcony). Cheer-ful interior design by a woman with taste. Com-munity kitchen and lounge. Spotlessly clean, and --quite unusual for Georgia -- solid bathroom fixtures.dorm 20 GEL.

• Green StairsHostel, Tsinamdzgvrishvili Street, 53(walk east from Metro Marjanishvili one block, turnright and it'll be a 5min walk on the left). Free WiFiand a communal fridge. The hostel is very simple,but run by a nice couple who speak English. It’s alittle cold in the winter, but each room does have aspace heater. The owner will drive you to the airportfor 25 GEL. 25 GEL/room.

• Maria Tours and Hostel, FreedomSquare/Liberty Sq. 4, 2nd floor (Metro Lib-erty Sq. Next door to Marriott Courtyard.), ☎599 208989, e-mail: [email protected]: 14:00, check-out: noon. Carters mainlyto Arab families with small children, due to locationadditional traffic noise. Security camera installed

13.9. SLEEP 57

inside the dorm watching your sleep. Laundry 5 L.Dorm 25 L..

• Old Town Hostel, Khodasheni/Iveria Street 7(Walk down from Freedom Sq. to Leselidze Stand in 2 min you turn on your right (in frontof TBC Bank Leselidze branch) - Metro FreedomSquare), ☎ +995 32 986188, +995 71004002, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in:13:00, check-out: 11:00. Comfortable beds, clean,cozy, and friendly hostel. Airport transfer is possi-ble. €10-14.

• REST Hostel Tbilisi, 68 Dimitri UznadzeSt (Near MetroMarjanishvili metro station), ☎+995 598 111469, +995 599 164249, e-mail:[email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Has 6 beds and one extra bed. Luggagestorage, 24 hour reception (you may need to callthough), Internet, computers, free Wi-Fi in room,cable TV/DVD, free towels, linen included, air con-ditioning, guest kitchen, shared bathroom/shower,laundry. Car service 4WD, and can organize toursto the North-West. However, avoid their second,much more noisy hostel “Honey Hostel Tbilisi”.€11.

• Rover Hostel, 14 Anton Purtseladze St (From Rus-taveli Avenue turn down at the crossroads with Purt-seladze St (next to the Rustaveli Cinema, in front ofthe building of parliament) and in one and a halfblocks you are there. - Metro Freedom Square), ☎+995 32 936520. Check-out: 11:00. Clean and wellarranged hostel with comfortable, quiet, and saferooms. There is a common room for guest use withfree internet access, WiFi, coffee and tea. Thereis one bathroom/shower with hot water all day long.Clean sheets, luggage storage, spacious lockers, per-sonal reading lights and plugs, fully equipped laun-dry and kitchen facilities. 25 GEL.

• StarHostel, 45 Vertskhli St (From Freedom Squarewalk north down Pushkini street, take first rightat Vertskhli and you will see the sign.), ☎ +99532 995099, e-mail: [email protected]: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. 2 Bed Apart-ment Ensuite available. Recently renovated and hasall the modern amenities, including cable flat screenTV/DVD, free Internet & WiFi and a well suppliedkitchen. Run by a friendly speaking couple. Not thecoziest place, but owner can provide good informa-tion. Dorm: €12 per person per night.

• Tamuna’s Guesthouse, 32. Arnold ChikobavaSt near sabchos moedani (From Metro MarjanishviliMetro NE 0.3km), ☎ +995 99 183555, +955 90527818, e-mail: [email protected]. Twobedrooms available, laundry facilities, free internet,living room, kitchen open for use, many TV chan-nels, well heated in the winter. English is spokenhere. 20-25 GEL per person/night.

• Tbilisi Friends Hostel, Betlemi Str. #28-30, entrance up from ascent Tumaniani street9 (Old Tbilisi,), ☎ +995 577 737771, e-mail:[email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. Near theNarikhala Fortress, surrounded by the traditionalbalconied Georgian houses and architecture. Thebuilding itself is a historic one, with old-styled inte-rior. 10 beds in dorm and 2 privates.Nice balconyand common area, Old Town view, bar, BBQ area,guest kitchen. two showers. Dorm:€8, Privates:€12.

• Tbilisi Hostel, Avlabari, Makhati turn 22 (FromMetro Avlabari metro station 0.4km NE, from theexit turn right and pass the market and bear right).Run by ex-backpackers. Popular among youngbackpackers, particularly those who are very price-conscious. Can be crowded and noisy. Free Internet& WiFi; guest kitchen; cheap laundry service. Ad-vertises itself as a 'party hotel'. dorm: €10.55.

• Veziko apartments, 10 Chonkadze Street, (FromMetro Freedom Square 0.3km West), ☎ +995 9316 39 36, e-mail: [email protected] and cosy apartments to stay at, a lovely andhospitable family run this place in Old Tbilisi, sobackpackers who are into local lifestyle would beable to feel it by staying in a real georgian house,about 25$ per night/double bed. internet, stove andbath is available.

• Walker Hostel, 19 Gomi St (From Metro Free-dom sq. to Leselidze st. in the end of Zdanevichupturn (behind Bethlemi st. 27).), ☎ +995322 14 65 75, +995 555 55 66 65, e-mail:[email protected]. Check-in: 14:00,check-out: 13:00. Cozy rooms, big living room,kitchen and balcony with incredible view. 24h re-ception, fan, airport transfers (11€), BBQ area, bi-cycle parking, cable TV, free parking, free WiFi,laundry, linen and towels included, lockers, luggagestorage, tours/travel desk. €10.

• Why Not Tbilisi Legend Hostel, Tabukashvili15/4 (in centre. - Metro Freedom Square), ☎ +995 99007030, e-mail: [email protected]. €10-15.

13.9.2 Mid-range

• Beaumonde, 11 Chavchavadze St (Next to RustaveliAvenue), ☎ 986-003. A beautiful bed/breakfast withdinner. There are balconies and a roof deck. Thebreakfast and dinner are very filling. There is freeinternet. The family that runs the hotel is very warmand welcoming. Staff speaks Georgian, Russian,and some English. Sgl €70; Dbl €88, breakfast in-cluded.

58 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• Betsy’s Hotel, 32-34 Kote Makashvili St (MetroRustaveli), ☎ +995 931404, 923996, 982615, e-mail: [email protected]. 57 rooms. No pricing infor-mation on website.

• SkadaVeli, 27 Vertskhli str (Metro FreedomSquare), e-mail: [email protected]. Light,quiet and comfortable apartment located in Kalaneighborhood. 70-80 L. per room for 3rd p. +30L..

• Hotel Ata, 17, Leselidze St (Metro FreedomSquare), ☎ +995 32 987715, fax: +995 32 986026,e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: noon,check-out: noon. Dbl 100 Lari.

• Hotel British House, 32 Belinski St, ☎ +995 32988783, e-mail: [email protected]. Afriendly personalised bed & breakfast. €70-100.

• Hotel Vere Inn, 53 Barnov Street, (From MetroRustaveli 0.7km West), ☎ +995 32 291252, e-mail:[email protected]. 5 rooms. Very comfortablehotel in Vere, safe location with very friendly multi-lingual staff. Free WiFi. US$50-US$100, breakfastincluded.

• Hotel Charm, 11 Chakhrukhadze St (From MetroFreedom Square 0.7km East), ☎ +995 32 985333, e-mail: [email protected]. 7 rooms. Very nice ho-tel with very friendly staff. US$40-US$100, break-fast included.

• Hotel Georgian House, 38 Vakhtang VI St (FromMetro Avlabari 0.7km NE), ☎ +995 32 2791919,fax: +995 32 2791920, e-mail: [email protected]: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Sgl: €35; Dbl:€45 including breakfast and VAT.

• Prestige Hotel, 51 Marjanishvili St (in north,central Tbilisi on a quiet street), ☎ +995 91141500. Quiet, comfortable, newly renovated.+phones=+995 32 940505, +995 32 942974, +99532 952974 US$50 including breakfast.

• Hotel River Side, Brosse Street Turn | Right sideof Mtkvari (Metro Freedom Square). Really nice,comfortable. friendly staff. Free WiFi. US$110-US$140.

• Hotel VIPVictoria, D. Arakishvili I Lane, 3 (FromMetro Rustaveli 1.0km West), ☎ +995 32 291877,+995 32 251247, e-mail: [email protected] 100$.

• TBILOTEL, 8, Daraselia str (Metro Medi-cal University), ☎ +995 32 387804, e-mail:[email protected]. 24/7. a High Class Businessand Leisure Hotel. offers 18 very comfortable room,standard and semi-suites, with balconies, Free Wi-Fi Internet, satellite TV and international phone.Double: 170-190 Lari.

• VIPHotel, 31, Leselidze Street. This is a lovely ho-tel in a quiet coutyard with views over the river. Theowners are really charming people and the break-fast is excellent., ☎ +995 99532923336. €50-60per night.

13.9.3 Splurge

• Betsy’s Hotel, 32-34 Makashvili St (FromMetroRustaveli 0.5km SW), ☎ +995 32 931404, fax:+995 32 999311, e-mail: [email protected].

• Courtyard Marriott Tbilisi (სასტუმრო"ქორთიად-მარიოტი"), 4 Freedom Square(თავისუფლების მოედანი) (Metro FreedomSquare), ☎ +995 322 779200, fax: +995 32779210. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00.Six-storied Courtyard Marriott Hotel was built at1990’s, in post-modernist style. US$185+ per night.

• Hotel Vere Palace, 22-24 Kuchishvili St(Near the Zoo and Hero’s Square. - MetroRustaveli), ☎ +995 32 253340/41/42, e-mail:[email protected]. 4-star hotel.

• Mercure Tbilisi Old Town, 9 Vakhtang Gorgasalistreet, ☎ +995 322 00 60 60. Check-in: 14.00,check-out: 12.00. A four star hotel. Hotel ameni-ties: fitness and a sauna bath. $170 single roomwithout breakfast. +$18 for breakfast. (updated Oct2015)

• Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel, Rose RevolutionSquare 1 (Metro Rustaveli), ☎ +995 32 402200,e-mail: [email protected]. Glass toweroverlooking the river. 249 rooms. The fanciest ho-tel in the city.

• SheratonMetechi PalaceHotel, Issani (Metro 300Aragveli Subway Station), ☎ +995 32 772020, fax:+995 32 772120. 15 minute walk to the Old CityUS$200+ per night.

• Tbilisi Marriott Hotel (სასტუმრო "თბილისიმარიოტი"), 13 Rustaveli Prospekt (შოთარუსთაველის გამზ.) (Metro Freedom), ☎ +995 32779200, fax: +995 32 779210. Check-in: 15:00,check-out: 12:00. From €152.

13.10 Stay safe

Tbilisi is very safe after the Rose Revolution. The po-lice system was reformed completely and the recent pollsshow that public’s trust in police shifted from nearly 10%to 88%. The police are usually quick to respond, thoughusually only Georgian and Russian are spoken.While walking is generally fine, even for solo women, itmakes sense to take a bus or taxi home at night. Use

13.13. COPE 59

common sense and big-city awareness. Night time at theclubs and bars are safe, and taxi service is safe as long asit’s a company taxi like “009” or others. The public busis also a good, safe option for 0.50 lari.

• Police Tel: 112

• Ambulance tel: 112

13.11 Stay healthy

• Medi Club Georgia, 22a, Tashkenti St (Metro:“Medical University” 300 mwalk to Taskent lane cor-ner opp- of its), ☎ +995 32 2251991, fax: +99532 2250911, e-mail: [email protected] of 'designated' medical clinic for foreigners.(The official bills from here accepted some nationalhealth insurance). Emergency Contact: +995 599581991

Quality drugs without a prescription, can be obtainedfrom pharmacies. Recommended the priority attentionto the warranties of the drugs!About H1N1 or any other infectious diseases you couldget information on the website

13.12 Connect

There are 3 GSM operators of mobile phone service:

• Magticom: provides 3G, covers all of Georgia.

• Geocell: provides 3G, covers all of Georgia, packetdata deals available for prepaid

• Beeline: Russian company, the cheapest of all simcards, but does not get the best reception in someareas. buy a sim card at the office on Rustaveli Av-enue.

13.13 Cope

• Tourism Office, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Ave.3(Metro Liberty Sq. exit - on the south side of Free-dom Square—on the ground floor Georgia Museumof History). - upon arriving in Tbilisi. They providea free, very detailed booklet with a map of the citybut little other information.

Ask at Marriott Courtyard if you're lost - the staff arefairly fluent in English, and they are more than happy toprovide you with free maps, and help you locate whateveryou're looking for on a map before you leave.

Be careful about renting DVDs from Prospero’s book-store - there is quite a selection, but as most of them arepirated, almost half of all their DVD stock is of a poorquality. For your peace of mind, you can check any DVDon a player in the cafe before you rent it.

13.13.1 Embassies

• Armenia, 4 Gia Tetelashvili Street, 0102, ☎ +99532 295-1723, +995 32 295-9443, fax: +995 32 296-4287, e-mail: [email protected].

• Azerbaijan, 4 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0114, ☎+995 32 224-2220, fax: +995 32 224-2233, e-mail:[email protected]. 9:00-18:00.

• Brazil, 6/2 Gia Chanturia street, 0108, ☎ +99532 293-2419, fax: +995 32 293-2416, e-mail:[email protected].

• Bulgaria, 15 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0105, ☎+995 32 291-0194, +995 32 291-019495, +995577233030, fax: +995 32 291-0270, e-mail:[email protected].

• Estonia, 4 Likhauri street, 0171, ☎ +99532 236-5122, fax: +995 32 236-5138, e-mail:[email protected].

• France (Ambassade de France), 49 Krtsanisi St,☎ +995 32 272 1490, fax: 272 1355, e-mail:[email protected]. M-Th 09.00-13.00and 14.00-18.00 and Fri 09.00-13.00 and 14.00-16.30.

• Germany, 20 Telavi street, Hotel „SheratonMetekhi Palace“ (300 Aragveli Subway Station),☎ +995 32 244 7300, fax: 244 7364, e-mail: [email protected]. Mo-Th 08:30–17:30, Fr08:30-14:30.

• Hungary (Magyarország Nagykövetsége, Tbil-iszi, Georgia), 83 Lvovi Street on some mapKushitashvili street (off Budapesht Street), Sabur-talo district (Metro: “Medical University” 0.7km), ☎ +995 32 2399008, +995 595 580777(Emergency), fax: +995 32 2399004, e-mail:[email protected].

• Iran, 80 Ilia Chavchavadze Ave (From MDelisi S3.5km. - At Vake Cemetery), ☎ +99532 291 3656, +995 32 2913658, +995 322913659, +995 32 291660, fax: 2913628, e-mail:[email protected].

• Iraq, 17 Lvov St, ☎ 223 4501, 223 4502, 223 4503,fax: 229 4503, e-mail: [email protected].

• Israel, 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave, ☎ +995 32 255 6500, fax: 255 65 33, e-mail: [email protected].

60 CHAPTER 13. TBILISI

• Italy, 3a Chitadze St, ☎ 299 64 18, 29214 62, 292 18 54, fax: 299 64 15, e-mail:[email protected].

• Japan, 7d Krtsanisi St, ☎ 275 21 11, fax: 275 2120, e-mail: [email protected].

• Latvia, 16 Akhmeta St, ☎ 224 48 58, fax: 238 1406, e-mail: [email protected].

• Lithuania, 25 Tengiz Abuladze street, 0162, ☎ 29129 33, fax: 222 17 93, e-mail: [email protected].

• Swiss, Krtsanisi St (კრწანისის ქუჩა).

• Turkey, 35 Chavchavadze Ave, ☎ 225 20 72, 22520 73, 225 20 74, 225 20 76, fax: 222 06 66, e-mail:[email protected].

• United Kingdom, 51 Krtsanisi St, ☎227 47 47, fax: 227 47 92, e-mail:[email protected].

• United States, 11 Balanchini St, ☎ 227 7000, 253 23 34, fax: 253 23 22, e-mail:[email protected].

Mount Kazbeg

13.14 Go next

13.14.1 Armenia

• Yerevan (by night train, bus or taxi. No visa requiredfor EU or US. See more: Tbilisi#Get in)

13.14.2 Azerbaijan

• Baku, Azerbaijan – by night train or bus

13.14.3 Within Georgia

• Batumi (W ~250 km by night & day train, plane, orbus/minibus) – on the Black Sea

• Bakuriani (W ~160 km ), a ski resort

• Borjomi(W ~160 km by train, leaving early in themorning, or minibus 5hrs) a resort town

• Mount Kazbeg (N 157 km) – one of the highestmountains in Europe is also home to one of the mostspectacularly situated monasteries in the world

View of Mestia, Georgia

• Mestia (NW ~360 km).

• Ozurgeti (W ~200 km via night train, leaves around21:45, arrives 6:10. There is also a marshutka fromStation Square (the train station), which leaves at16:00 and arrives around 22:00), is a regional center.

• National Parks - Mestia-Svaneti, Borjomi-Kharagauli, Telavi-Gurjaani

Chapter 14

Rioni Region

Rioni Region is a lush, green, mountainous region inwestern Georgia along the Rioni River.

14.1 Regions

• Imereti

• Racha

14.2 Cities

• Kutaisi — historically the capital of western Geor-gia, Kutaisi is a must visit for its two UNESCOWorld Heritage sites

• Ambrolauri — the capital of Racha is gritty, but at-tractive, very leafy, and up a very steep road leadingto the Greater Caucasus

• Chiatura

• Lentekhi — a rather town of Lower Svaneti, whichboasts several 10th century churches, a castle, andSvan towers in a nearby village

• Oni — a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni Riverup in the mountains that was for millennia a centerof Georgian Jewish culture. Today it is becominga major tourist destination for domestic travelers aswell as attracting adventurous foreign travelers at-tracted to its natural beauty, remote setting and alocal culture that has not seen the effects of tourismyet

• Samtredia

• Tkibuli

14.3 Other destinations

• Shovi — a high alpine Soviet-style resort near thesource of the Rioni River in Upper Racha; simplyunbelievable hiking opportunities

14.4 Understand

14.5 Talk

Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the re-gion, but much of the older generation speak Russian.The younger generation is increasingly speaking Englishdue to hostility towards Russia, and because English hasreplaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide since independence. When in need for help, lookfor younger people, as they are more likely to know someEnglish.

14.6 Get in

14.7 Get around

14.8 See

14.8.1 Itineraries

14.9 Do

14.10 Eat

14.11 Drink

14.12 Stay safe

14.13 Go next

Georgia’s principal east-west highway passes through Ku-taisi, and you can get to pretty much anywhere from there.To the east, past the highway junction at Khashuri are theKartli cities of Gori and Tbilisi to the east and Borjomito the south.

61

62 CHAPTER 14. RIONI REGION

There is a road leading north from Lentekhi that is theprincipal route into the high mountain villages/fortressesof Svaneti. And lastly, there is a road leading east fromOni towards Tskhinvali, South Ossetia, but this route issusceptible to highway banditry, carjacking, and kidnap-ping and is not recommended.

Chapter 15

Kutaisi

Kutaisi old town

Downtown Kutaisi

Kutaisi is a city in the Rioni Region of Georgia.

15.1 Understand

Kutaisi is the traditional rival of Tbilisi for capital sta-tus, and has since the days of the Golden Fleece beenconsidered the capital of Western Georgia (then AncientColchis). It remains Georgia’s second largest city, but tothe irritation of the proud locals, does not come even closeto Tbilisi’s present day size and wealth. Since the Geor-gian government decided to move their parliament to Ku-taisi, there has been a lot of work on restoring streets,buildings, parks and monuments and the city has becomemuch safer. The seat of the state parliament was removedhere a few years ago.

But a visit here is nonetheless near mandatory to see themagnificent Bagrati Cathedral, andGelati Monastery,both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, andhave commanding views from the mountain slopes overthe city and the Rioni river.

15.2 Get in

15.2.1 By plane

• King David the Builder International Airport(IATA: KUT), Kopitnari, 14 km west of Kutaisiproper on the main S1 highway. The airport servicesdomestic flights to Tbilisi, and several internationalflights. The Hungary-based low-cost carrier WizzAir provides very cheap flights to/from Budapest,Hungary; Vilnius, Lithuania; Warsaw and Katowice,Poland and Kiev, Ukraine. That made Kutaisi veryattractive place to fly into from Eastern Europe.Georgian Airways and Ural Airlines flies toMoscow, Russia while Belavia offers flights toMinsk, Belarus. There are also occasional flightsto Baghdad, Iraq on Iraqi Airways. (updated Feb2015)

Transportation to the airport:

• Georgian Bus provides shuttle bus service betweenthe airport and Kutaisi city center, Tbilisi andBatumi, with bus schedules following flight arrivals.Shuttle buses to Tbilisi (20 GEL, four hours) termi-nate at Freedom Square, while shuttle buses to Ba-tumi (18 GEL, three hours) terminate at the Radis-son Blu Hotel. Shuttle buses to Kutaisi city center (5GEL) will stop at any address within the city. Tick-ets may be purchased online or upon arrival withcash or bank card at the Georgian Bus counter lo-cated near the exit, and when returning to the air-port, may also be purchased directly from the driver.Be advised that if you're riding the Georgian Busservice from Kutaisi, you must e-mail them with thename of the hotel from which you will be picked upfrom.

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64 CHAPTER 15. KUTAISI

• Marshrutkas from points east headed towards Ba-tumi or Samtredia, or from points west towardsKutaisi or Tbilisi, will also drop passengers off atthe airport, which is convenient for passengers whohave missed the Georgian Bus service to the airport.From Tbilisi, a marshrutka from the Didube bus ter-minal to the airport is 20 GEL. It is also possible towalk out of the airport onto the highway and hail amarshrutka if headed to a particular destination.

15.2.2 By train

• Kutaisi I, Tamar Mepe St.

• Kutaisi II station (southwest. From this station get-ting a cab is an option, 5 GEL all over town). Trainfrom Tskaltubo are running to Kutaisi II station.

• Rioni station, Kutaisi-Baghdati-Abastumani-Benara Road (7.3km south of Kutaisi.). There aremore night and day trains running to Tbilisi Centralfrom here

All trains from and to Tbilisi Central leave from andarrive at the modernized Kutaisi I station. There arethree daily departures to the capital. All Georgia RailTimetable A ticket with reserved seat costs (passport re-quired for purchase) minimum 5 GEL. Also stops inMtskheta (old capital of Georgia), Gori (birthplace ofStalin) and Zestafoni. Nice journey but slow due to longintermediate stops.A local, but “fast” train runs from Kutaisi I to Batumi(listed Makhinjauri in the timetable — the name of thestation about 8 km north of Batumi), leaving at 9:00, ar-riving 3 hours later. Cost 4 GEL, payable on the train.Trains to Kharagauli leave every day. (4-10 GEL, 3.5h)

15.2.3 By bus

• Bus station (From the bus station (southwest oftown) to go to the city center: cross the road, and takebus #1 that goes directly to the city center. Cost: 0.30Lari.).

Mini-buses ('marshrutkas’) and full 54-passenger busesdepart regularly for Kutaisi from 'Didube Bus Station' lo-cated at the Didube metro stop in Tbilisi. Marshrutkas(hourly, 3.5 hours, 10 lari); large buses (every threehours, 4 hours).Minibuses toBorjomi leave every day, every hour (8 Gel,2 hr). Minibuses to Kharagauli leave every day, twice aday (10 GEL, 3.5 h).

15.2.4 By car

15.3 Get around

The interesting parts of the town are walkable. To visitthe monasteries in the mountains nearby booking a day-tour may be a time-saving option.

15.3.1 By bus

No.1 city bus is a useful circular route (both clockwiseand anticlockwise direction) linking the main city square,Kutasi I (main train station), and Kutaisi II (bus station).0.4 Lari, pay the driver at exit, change given. From KutasiII (bus station), clockwise direction (to the left, cross theroad from McDonalds) is the faster route to the city cen-tre. Note each direction takes slightly different route onthe centre of the city (east side of the river). The clock-wise direction does not go in front of Kutasi I but goessouth on Tsereteli St. along the river. The anticlockwisedirection stops in front of Kutaisi I then goes uphill onSolomon Piveli Street and downhill on 26 Maisi (May)Street towards the main square.Local marshrutkas ply the city but are difficult to find theroute for avarage tourists.

15.3.2 By train

Kutaisi Train Schedule (Aug 2015)

15.4. SEE 65

Bagrati Cathedral

White bridge

15.4 See

• Bagrati Cathedral (UNESCO World heritagesite), Leselidze street (Towering above the town, justwalk up the hill.). Ancient church originally built inthe 11th century. Foundations of an earlier build-ing have been found. Blown up by marauding Is-lamic invaders in the 18th century, then carefullyrestored over the last 100 years, the interior also al-most completed. The difference between originaland replacement is clearly obvious. The ongoingreconstruction aimed at returning Bagrati Cathedralback to its original state as a religious space has ledICOMOS to recommend that it should be left as aruin and added to the list of UNESCO World Her-itage Sites in danger. Free admission.

• Uqimerioni Fortress (adjacent to Bagrati Cathe-dral, 50 meters behind it).

• Synagogue, Boris Gaponov Street.

• St. Thekla church, Daniel Chonkadze St.

• St Elijah the prophet church., Chekhovi Street I.

• St. Cyprian and Justina church, David Ag-mashenebeli Ave,.

• White Bridge over the river Rioni, known by thebridge Springer scene in the movie “Neobyknoven-naja Vystavka”

• Parliament of Georgia, Irakli Abashidze St (in thewest of the city on the main road to Tskaltubo). Com-pleted in 2012. It was one of the most prestigiousprojects of President Mikheil Saakashvili to relo-cate the parliament from Tbilisi to Kutaisi. How-ever, the relocation of Parliament is cancelled by thenew government Ivanishvili. In what way this new50 million-euro building will be used is still unclear.

15.4.1 Museums

• Small Local Historymuseum, Rustaveli Ave. andTesereteli St. corner. 10:00-18:00. with Englishsigns like “pottery shreds” offering very little in-depth information 3 Lari.

• Kutaisi Museum of Sport.

• Kutaisi Museum of Martial Art.

• Museum of Zakaria Paliashvili.

• David Kakabadze Fine Art Gallery, 8 Shota Rus-taveli Street. Houses collections of the 19th and20th century artists

15.4.2 Further afield

Gelati Monastery

• Gelati Monastery (გელათის მონასტერი), 7,Nazarishvili str. (NW 11 km of Kutaisi. There is aminibus going to the monastery departing from Ku-taisi’s Opera Thater, costs 1 GEL, leaves at 10:00,12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00 and going back 30 min-utes later. Alternatively get to the turn to Gelatimonastery on the Kutaisi-Tbilisi road by train or busand walk for 2 km from there uphill).

• Motsameta Monastery (მოწამეთა) (NW 6 kmof Kutaisi. Get to the turn to Gelati monastery on the

66 CHAPTER 15. KUTAISI

Geguti Palace

Kutaisi-Tbilisi road, “Kutaisi-Gelati” minibus passesit. Besides, Motsameta is about 5km from GelatiMonastery (which is about 1 hr walk following theroad)). XI century monastery richly decorated withfrescoes.

• Geguti Palace, Geguti village (S 15 km). One ofthe few secular monuments of the medieval Geor-gian kingdom, located on the banks of the River Ri-oni.. It is well preserved and developed for tourism.It’s not protected anyhow and thus it’s free to enter.

• Vani archaeological site (ვანი) (41 km southwestin Imereti region). one of the most important citiesof antique Colchi, from VIII-VI century B.C. havebeen discovered. The city was destroyed in I centuryA.D.

• Sataplia Nature Reserve (SW 10 km). Threemain attractions of the reserve - a pavilion with well-preserved dinosaur tracks, karst cave and glass bal-cony - an observation deck on top of the mountainSataplia (highest point of the reserve).

• Prometheus Cave (პრომეთე მღვიმე), located invillage Kumistavi (Minibus from Kutaisi central busterminal(bus 34), Tskaltubo overpass(bus 44?) andadjacent area of Red bridge(bus 30 from city centercross the bridge and stop is on the left) to Tskaltuboleave every day, several times a day (1 Gel, 30 min)further Minibus N42 from Tskaltubo central mar-ket to Prometheus cave leaves every day except Mon-day (1 GEL, 20 min). Taxi from Tsakltubo costed5GEL). One of Georgia’s longest natural caves, withfabulous stalactites and stalagmites and undergroundlake. Overnight option: Hotel Spa Kurorti, 23Rustaveli Street, Tskaltubo, ☎ +995 599 563115.59 comfortable rooms for 118 people. 60 GEL pernight,inc. breakfast.

15.5 Do

• Torpedo Kutaisi F.C. (Givi Kiladze Stadium),Giorgi Brtskinavale. See the local football team in amatch at the Givi Kiladze Stadium. 2 GEL.

• Do as the locals do: Sit in the city centre park andwatch the world pass by.

15.5.1 Theatres

• Lado Meskhisvili Theater, Gelati Street.

• Puppet Theater.

15.5.2 Parks

• Botanical Garden “Kolchuri” (in the north of thecity on the main road towards Zageri). Rather smallbut still nice botanical garden. Some trees has signsin English. There is also interesting chapel built in-side the tree. 3 GEL.

• Park of Culture andRest (Besik Gabashvili Park),Vazha Pashavela St.

• Central Garden (ქუთაისის ბულვარი, ბაღისკიდე), Rustaveli Avenue.

• Kharazov Park, Solomon Pirveli Street.

• Youth Park (Pionerta Park), Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Rd..

• Kikvidze Park, Zviad Gamsakhurdia St.

15.6 Buy

• Bazaar, off Zakhira Paliashvili (Paliashvili V Aly)St. the main drag

• Regular stores, along Tsereteli St..

15.7 Eat

Kutaisi has quite a big number of decent restaurants de-spite how poorly the city looks itself. They are mainlylocated in the city center but a bit spreaded so just walkaround to find what you're looking for.

• Sudarushka (სუდარუშკა, Сударушка), ClindaNino st. No. 13, ☎ 970 93 93 98. 09:00 -02:00. Authentic Russian cuisine from the ownerswho know how to cook it right. Food tastes good,big portions, nice personal, Russian music as an ac-companiment. Note this place doesn't have English

15.9. SLEEP 67

sign on the entrance so just look for a wooden sign(saying სუდარუშკა Сударушка) or a window witha Russian girl in a national costume in it. 3-8 GELper meal.

• Chinese Restaurant. Newly opened place in 2014with true Chinese cuisine. Owners are obviouslyChinese. Offer huge variety of national dishes. It’sa bit pricey, however tea comes for free. It’s a bigsurprise to find it in Kutaisi. 10-30 GEL.

• Tea -House Foe-Foe (Foe-Foe), Rustaveli str 5(near the Kutaisi Opera Building), ☎ 577577533,e-mail: [email protected]. 10:00-00:00.Adress :Rustaveli str 5, nearby Opera . MiddleCheck-10gel Open :10:00 Close:00:00 Plastic Card:Accepted Wi-Fi:Free Menu:Georgian and Medi-terian(main Courses ,Soups,Salads,Sweets) 5.00-10.00 gel. (updated May 2015)

15.8 Drink

15.9 Sleep

15.9.1 Budget

• Hostel Kutaisi, 14 Solomon I (Solomon Pirveli St)Street (next to main square in the historical part ofthe city), ☎ +995 431 253873, +995 551 471100(mobile), e-mail: [email protected]. In the hos-tel Kutaisi you will be served by experienced peo-ple (English spoken). Amenities include free Wi-Fi, internet, linen, towels, shampoo, coffee, tea, ca-ble TV, maps, different guide books, advice aboutKutaisi and Georgia in general. 20 to 30 GEL pernight.

• Suliko’s Homestay, Tbilisi Street 3rd Lane #6 (#6on the alley running between #83 Tbilisi St. and#72 26 May St.(26 Maisi St.) ) From the main citysquare (fountain), Tbilisi street runs towards south-east. Walk uphill until 81 Tbilisi St. and turn left,you see a house with green metal gate at No. 6 of thealley.), ☎ +995 431 243007. Run by a retired cou-ple, a large room of their house serves as a dorm,two smaller private rooms are available. Theoret-ically one may stay to sleep only, alas one is verylikely to be treated to the excellent fare the lady ofthe house serves up as well as the homemade winethe husband produces. I.e. if they like you, you arelikely to be treated to one of those infamous Geor-gian welcomes, heavy on your liver ... They will giveyou as much chacha, Georgian wine and Georgianfood as you can handle. The food is all hand-madeand freshly prepared. It is amazing, the hospitalityis unparalleled and only the modesty of the facilities

leaves anything to be desired. The beds are cleanand the house is good by local standards, and thenew bathroom was completed by summer 2011 inthis friendly homestay. Free WiFi Internet is avail-able, and there is a computer available for use.To get there from the main bus station (Kutaisi IIRailway Station), take a #1 city bus traveling to theright (from McD walk right the same side of streetto find the bus stop). The bus pass the Kutaisi I sta-tion and go uphill to 26 Maisi Street. Get off at #72(there is a cross on sidewalk) and you walk into thealley, which is Tbilisi St. 3rd Lane. From Kutaisi Istation, take #1 bus or walk out to the right uphill onSolomon Pirveli St. for th 6-7 min up the hill to Tbil-isi St. Taxis from the bus station is 5 GEL, but theytend to take you to similarly named guesthouse toget commission. Give them the street address ratherthan ask for “Suliko’s.” 30 GEL per night includingbreakfast and supper.

• Gelati Guest House (საოჯახო სასტუმრო„გელათი“), 26 May Street, (Vtoraya Liniya 4),Second Turn., ☎ +995 597 986222. 5 rooms / 12people. inc. breakfast 35 GEL. (2013?).

• Guesthouse Zelimkhani, ☎ +995 431 222441. 14comfortable rooms for 28 people. 50 GEL per nightinc. breakfast.

• Guesthouse Beka, 26 Debi Ishkhnelebi Street, ☎+995 431 246923. 16 comfortable rooms for 30people. 40 GEL incl. breakfast.

• Guesthouse Gora, 22 Debi Ishkhnelebi Street, ☎+995 431 252170, +995 599 574625. 43 comfort-able rooms for 100 people. 40 GEL incl. breakfast.

• Hostel Bavaria, 108 Tbilisi street, ☎ +995 59836 26 36, e-mail: [email protected]. Meet thesmall family that runs the hostel. Spacious and quiethouse. Residential area near a park and a shop. Ac-cessible on foot from the main square. Minibus 34passes close to the hostel. 15 GEL. (updated Jul2015)

15.9.2 Mid-range

• Hotel Kolkha, Axalgazrdoba Avenue 38, ☎ +995597 731056.

• Hotel Oazis, Mari Brosse St. (behind the largeround theatre in the city centre). Small hotel in thecenter. Clean, cozy rooms with narrow beds; wifi,A/C, heating. One of the few budget options in cen-tral Kutaisi.

• Hotel Tirifiholiday (tirifebi), Zviad Gamsakhur-dia Str.45 (Between McDonalds and Patrol police),

68 CHAPTER 15. KUTAISI

☎ +995 592 961515, e-mail: [email protected] air-conditioned guestrooms with separate bath-rooms. Room service 24h. Complimentary fullbreakfast in the breakfast area. Multilingual staff,laundry facilities, free car parking, free wireless In-ternet access in all areas of the hotel. 20 gel - 120gel.

• Hotel Rcheuli Palace, 21b Gr. Khandzteli St, ☎+995 431 292900. 28 comfortable rooms / 50 peo-ple. 115 GEL inc. breakfast.

• Hotel Imperiali (სასტუმრო „იმპერიალი“), 28Mchedlidze St, ☎ +995 579 191939. 9 comfortablerooms / 18 people. 100 GEL.

• Hotel Aieti’s Sasakhle (ასტუმრო „აიეტისსასახლე“. Aeetes Palace), 34 G. Tabidze St., ☎+995 431 253533. 13 rooms / 26 people 100 GEL.

• Hotel Dzveli Kalaki, 3/4 Ioseb Grishashvili St., ☎+995 431 251451, +995 599 51 60 56. 10 roomsfor 24 people. 100 GEL incl. breakfast.

• Hotel Bagrati, 2a Tsereteli St, ☎ +995 431 25 5555. 16 comfortable rooms with a maximum capacityof 32 people. 140 GEL incl. breakfast.

15.9.3 Splurge

15.10 Connect

The tourist office kiosk between the two main bridges isstaffed during the summer season only. Rest of the yearit is located in the annex building left to the city hall atthe ground floor. (It is a bit hard to find since the mayordon't want to have signs to it. Ask in the city hall if youcannot find it.)Dingy post office on Tamar Mepe St. Previously existingInternet cafés have closed due to numerous freely avail-able hotspots.

15.11 Go next• Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park (for details see

Borjomi) — the largest national park in Georgia.The diversity of physical, geographical and espe-cially climatical conditions of its has shaped thewealth and variety of its flora and fauna. Apart fromthe largely untouched nature of Borjom-Kharagauli,there are numerous cultural monuments. In partic-ular, there are two easily accessible churches, builtin 9th century. At present eight tourist trails are of-ficially operating in the national park. They vary inlength, duration and complexity. Open from Apruntil October

• Mestia — the “capital” of Svaneti and a UNESCOWorld Heritage site

• Oni — a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni Riverup in the mountains that was for millennia a centerof Georgian Jewish culture. Today it is becominga major tourist destination for domestic travelers aswell as attracting adventurous foreign travelers at-tracted to its natural beauty, remote setting and alocal culture that has not seen the effects of tourismyet

• Tbilisi — the beautiful and interesting capital, Geor-gia’s largest and most cosmopolitan city

• Zugdidi — not very popular city with tourists foritself, however many of them pass through it on theirway up to Mestia in Svaneti

Chapter 16

Oni

Oni is a very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni River upin the mountains that was for millennia a center of Geor-gian Jewish culture. Today it is becoming a major touristdestination for domestic travelers as well as attracting ad-venturous foreign travelers attracted to its natural beauty,remote setting and a local culture that has not seen theeffects of tourism yet. The town is about 3 km long, be-tween the left bank of the Rioni River and hills to theEast.

16.1 Get in

16.2 Get around

The town is easily handled on foot, to travel further intothe mountains hire a car at the station where you weredropped off by the Marshutka, or make arrangementsthrough your guesthouse.

16.3 See

• Synagogue - Although the Jewish population hasmigrated away there is a beautiful synagogue in thecenter of town.

• Museum - The local museum has many artifactsthat would be much more famous if they were in amore well known museum. There are stone toolsfrom the earliest settlers, bronze tools, early Ironartifacts and artwork from contemporary artists, aswell as much more. Admission is 2 Lari

16.4 Do

The most popular activity for visitors is hiking or climbingin the mountains and there are many trails for this.

16.5 Eat

Most visitors will want to have their meals at the guest-house they are staying at, since there is a very limitedchoice of restaurants in the summer, and none are openin the winter.

16.6 Drink

16.7 Sleep

There are several nice guesthouse options in town and onenew hotel.

• Berishvili Homestay, 7 Baratashvili Street, ☎ +995599 15 76 38. Homestay with a garden and in a quietlocation. Russian, and some English and Germanspoken. 30 to 40 GEL per night (bed & breakfast,half-board).

• Family Guesthouse and Gallery - A beautifulhouse with hand made balconies that has been fur-nished and decorated by the owners who run the lo-cal art and woodworking school. The owners speakGeorgian and Russian and their teenage son speaksexcellent English and is able to act as a guide for lo-cal hikes.

16.8 Go next

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Chapter 17

Samtskhe-Javakheti

Samtskhe-Javakheti is a region of Georgia, which bor-ders Northern Armenia to the south.

17.1 Cities and Towns• Abastumani — both a former Czarist spa town and

a Soviet built astrophysical observatory, the westerngateway to the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

• Akhaltsikhe — the capital and largest city with anice weekend bazaar and a good base for exploringnearby Sapara Monastery and Vardzia

• Akhalkalaki — a small Armenian city (the largest inthe region) and the center of Javakheti

• Atskuri — a small town with three castles and thecentral entrance to the Borjomi-Kharagauli NationalPark

• Borjomi — famous for its Borjomi mineral water,national park, and summer palace of the RomanovDynasty, the eastern entrance to the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

• Bakuriani — a popular winter ski resort

• Ninotsminda — a large Armenian town

17.2 Other destinations

• Khertvisi Castle — A stone fortress dating back tothe 2nd century BCE, although it has been rebuiltmany times, is spectacularly situated on a rocky out-cropping overlooking the Mtkvari gorge on the wayto Vardzia from Akhaltsikhe. Amazingly, the site iscompletely abandoned and you may roam about thefortress at your own risk and delight.

• Sapara Monastery — one of Georgia’s truly magicalmonasteries, 11th century Sapara is hidden in theforested mountains above Akhaltsikhe, at the end ofa slow, bumpy dirt road, and as such has avoidedthe perils of invading armies throughout its entirehistory

The Vardzia cave monastery

• Vanis Kvabebi — another cave monastery, less fre-quently visited, near Vardzia

• Vardzia — a 12th century cave monastery and citycarved out of a cliff overlooking a river gorge

17.3 Understand

Samtskhe-Javakheti was traditionally known asMeskheti, for its Meskhi Georgian tribes. The re-gion is especially dry and mountainous south of Borjomi(which is still as green and wet as anywhere in Imereti).Javakheti, the southeastern portion of the region aroundAkhalkalaki, sees a bit of political ferment, since the vastmajority of its residents are ethnically Armenian anddemand greater autonomy and language rights. Unlikein Abkhazia and South Ossetia, however, the political

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17.12. GO NEXT 71

situation here does not translate into any danger for avisitor; it is rather just an extra reason why Javakheti isan interesting destination.Visitors should make Vardzia their number one travel pri-ority (and stop along the way at Khertvisi Castle). butthose with some extra time to explore would be foolishnot to haul themselves up the bumpy mountain road tosee the treasure that is Sapara Monastery. Borjomi is an-other great destination, but is far easier to visit than therest of the regional attractions, as it is located very closeto the main highway going between Tbilisi and Kutaisi.

17.4 Talk

In the southeast of the region around Akhalkalaki,Armenian is widely spoken, even more so than Georgian.But in the rest of the region, Georgian language speakerspredominate. Russian is also widely spoken, especiallyby older generations.

17.5 Get in

17.6 Get around

Marshrutkas are generally the way to go when travelingsouth of Akhaltsikhe, as they seem to handle the bumpydirt roads better than the Soviet built taxis (do not, how-ever, underestimate the rock-crawling capabilities of alada, seriously!).

17.7 See

17.7.1 Itineraries

17.8 Do

17.9 Eat

If you are looking to sample some Armenian cuisine,Akhalkalaki is home to some authentic-as-it-gets cheapArmenian cafes.

17.10 Drink

17.11 Stay safe

Samtskhe-Javakheti is a quite safe region of Georgia.Probably the biggest danger to a visitor is the risk of

falling off various cultural monuments—there are noguard rails to speak of. But common sense and a natu-ral fear of heights should keep you safe.

17.12 Go next• Georgia’s secondary road link with Turkey passes

through Akhaltsikhe, and it is fairly easy to catch amarshrutka or hire a taxi going to the Vale-Posofborder crossing from Akhaltsikhe’s bus station.

• There is also a seldom-traveled road heading southfrom Akhalkalaki through Ninotsminda towardsGyumri, in Northern Armenia. Foreigners travel-ing this route will give the bored customs officials abig surprise.

Chapter 18

Abastumani

Abastumani is a small Czarist era spa town and Sovietbuilt astrophysical observatory in the Samtskhe-Javakhetiregion.

18.1 Understand

Relatively undiscovered by foreign tourists Abastumaniwas once a thriving spa and resort town during the lastpart of the Russian Czars. Today it sits quiet for most ofthe year waiting for the summer rush of Georgian touristswho come to breathe it’s clean air and walk in the pristineforests.

18.2 Get in

Abastumani is reached by either taxi or marshutka(mini-bus) from the Akhaltsikhe bus station. The drive takesapproximately 30 minutes in a taxi or around 50 minutesin the marshutka depending on how many stops it makes.

18.3 Get around

The lower town is 7km from one end to the other andrelatively flat so it is easily walkable. The observatory is4km above the town. To reach it you can either take acable car which has a sporadic schedule, or walk one hourup a trail or a little longer by road.

18.4 See

There are many wooden, mostly abandoned, Czarist erabuildings to view and photograph. Visit the Czar’s Baththat is now under renovation but the guard will proba-bly let you look around. Ride up the cable car and walkaround the surreal and seemingly abandoned astrophys-ical observatory complex. The Romanov palace com-plex was probably once a great site but it barely warrantsthe walk out of town to visit them. Of the three origi-nal buildings only one remains in its former state and lies

fenced off, without any windows and is slowly deterio-rating. Several years ago one building caught fire and iscurrently being rebuilt and the main house was sold toprivate owners who have altered the original appearancebeyond recognition.

18.5 Do

• Forest Walk. Walk in the dark forest surroundingthe observatory and look for animals such as bearand wolves.

• Astrophysical Observatory. Visit the astrophys-ical observatory and look at the stars and moonthrough the old telescopes. The moon is best seenwhen it is half because you can see the shadows ofthe craters better.

• Hiking. Hike the Abastumani loop trail in theBorjomi-Kharagauli National Park.

• Czar’s Bath. Visit the Czar’s Bath at night and getthe caretaker to let you soak in the therapeutic springwater with friends and some local wine.

• Mountain Biking. Rent mountain bikes from theAbastumani Tourism Association and ride down themountain from observatory to the town.

• Cable Car. Ride up (or down) the Soviet era cablecar from the town to the observatory and get a bird’seye view of the surrounding region.

• Local Homestay. Stay with a local family and eatthe traditional Georgian food and hospitality.

• HorsebackRiding. - Rent horses and have a guidedride in the forest.

• Tamara’s Castle. - Explore the ruins of Tamara’sCastle sitting on the ridge high above the town.

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18.6 Buy

There is a small bazaar on Wednesday, Friday, and Sun-day from 8-12:30 where you can buy local products suchas fresh cheese, milk, vegetable, wine, and honey.

18.7 Eat

18.8 Drink

18.9 Sleep

18.10 Connect

18.11 Go next

Chapter 19

Akhaltsikhe

The mosque inside Akhaltsikhe Castle, Old City

Akhaltsikhe (Georgian: ახალციხე, “New Fortress”) isa small city of about 50,000 and the capital of Samtskhe-Javakheti. The city has been around for at least 800 years,and was a regional administrative center for the Ottomansfrom the sixteenth century up to the Russo-Turkish War.Until the twentieth century Akhaltsikhe was majority Ar-menian, but today, unlike most of the province, it is ma-jority Georgian. It’s a rather sleepy town, but its OldCity is worth a visit, and it’s a great base for exploringthe surrounding areas, including Sapara Monastery andKhertvisi Fortress in the immediate vicinity.

19.1 Get in

19.1.1 By train

Akhaltsikhe is connected to the main Batumi–Tbilisi–Baku railroad by a spur through Borjomi ending inAkhaltsikhe itself. This connection, however, has beensuspended since May 2013.

19.1.2 By marshrutka

Marshrutkas run to Akhaltsikhe’s main market/bus sta-tion from Tbilisi's Didube market, as well as from the busstations in Kutaisi and Khashuri. Coming from Kutaisi orTbilisi, it’s best to catch your ride early in the morning if

Sapara Monastery’s cupola

you want to avoid finding another marshrutka upon ar-rival in Khashuri. But it’s not terribly difficult to catcha marshrutka going between Akhaltsikhe and Khashuribefore dinner time.There are two marshrutkas to Yerevan, Armenia at 4:00and 7:00 (35 GEL). If you miss them, go to Akhalkalaki,from where marshrutkas leave to Yerevan almost everyhour.From Borjomi 3GEL.

19.1.3 By car

The principal route to Akhaltsikhe runs from Georgia’smain East-West highway (E60) at the spur in Khashurileading to Borjomi.There’s also a route from Batumi via Gorzerdzi pass(4WD needed, closed in winter, scenic views).

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19.4. DO 75

19.2 Get around

19.3 See

Sapara Monastery, hidden in the mountain forests

19.3.1 Old city

• Akhaltsikhe Castle

• St. Marine’s Church

19.3.2 Surroundings

• Sapara Monastery (საფარის მონასტერი) isabout 10-12 km outside of Akhaltsikhe up into themountains. The monastery was established in thetenth century, but the principal church, St. Sabas,was built sometime in the thirteenth century. Un-til the twentieth century, the monastery had beenperfectly preserved, as its hidden location saved itfrom Ottoman discovery throughout the empire’sthree-century long control of southwestern Geor-gia. Alas, the Soviets found it, and abused it in theusual soulless fashion, albeit not to the same extentas many other Georgian Orthodox establishments—the frescoed walls were not whitewashed, and re-main in good condition (especially following a re-cent restoration). During a visit, make sure to climbup the nearby slopes towards a rocky outcropping toget lovely views over the monastery and the valleys inthe distance. Also make sure not to use flash photog-raphy in the churches, unless you want to see someseriously angry monks. If you can make yourselfunderstood, you can overnight in the monastery’schambers.

• Khertvisi Fortress (ხერთვისის ციხე) looms overthe village of Khertvisi. The outcrop was usedas a fortress from the second century B.C., and

The walls of Khertvisi Fortress

was reputedly destroyed by Alexander the Great.The “modern” fortress, however, was built aroundthe thirteenth-fourteenth centuries, and saw fightingduring the Ottoman invasion (and subsequent occu-pation) in the sixteenth century. The walls on the farside drop down a sheer cliff to the Mtkvari far be-low, so if you fancy a bout of vertigo, pull yourselfup and look straight down.

19.4 Do

19.5 Buy

19.6 Eat

19.7 Drink

View of Khertvisi from the fortress

76 CHAPTER 19. AKHALTSIKHE

19.8 Sleep• Shin Hotel, 2 David and Konstantine St. (at As-

pindza Street), ☎ +995 365 22 12 30. It is a good 15minutes walk from the train/bus station on the otherside of central. Decent rooms with restaurant at-tached. 60 to 80 GEL Double/Twin. 20GEL Dormbed.

19.9 Connect

19.10 Go next• Vardzia — the cliffside cave monastery, former city,

and UNESCO World Heritage site is the biggest rea-son to visit Akhaltsikhe, and the region more gener-ally. A round trip by taxi from Akhaltsikhe mightcost about 60 lari.

• Safara — a monastery on a lovely, lush hillside about12 kilometres along an untarmacked road. Veryworth visiting. A round trip by taxi from Akhalt-sikhe might cost 15-25 lari.

• Akhalkalaki — the center of Armenian culture inGeorgia is nearby to the southwest, easily accessiblevia marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe

• Borjomi — every Soviet traveler’s favorite Georgianretreat, for its parks, Romanov palace, and interna-tionally renowned natural mineral water

• Turkey — You can buy bus tickets to Turkey fromthe central bus station. Ticket to Posof (city on theTurkish side) is $10 and leaves at 14:30. If you aregoing to Kars/Ani and have a tight budget, hitchingto Kars is a very easy and quick option and can bedone in far less than a day. If you leave in the morn-ing, hitching to the Turkish border or to Posof canbe quicker than the bus. From the central bus sta-tion, ask for the road to the Turkish border (Turet-skoĭ granitsy) and start flagging cars about a kilome-ter from the bus station down the road. The road willpass through the small town of Vale (note: althoughVale does not appear to be on the route to Turkey onthe Georgian tourist maps found at the tourist infor-mation centers, it is indeed on the way). You will beable to walk across the border.

Chapter 20

Borjomi

Borjomi from the cable car

Borjomi (ბორჯომი bohr-joh-mee) is a town in centralGeorgia as well as the name of a natural reserve and ofthe famous volcanic salty spring water. The source of thisspring water lies in the Borjomi gorge.

20.1 Get in

Busses leave hourly to Tbilisi from 7:00-14:00 and at14:45, 15:30, 16:00, 16:45, 17:15, 17:50 (8GEL). Bussesleave to Akhaltsikhe at 8:45 and 14:45 (4GEL), Batumiat 9:00 (17GEL), Poti at 6:45 (15GEL), Khashuri ev-ery half hour between 9:30 and 18:30 (2GEL), Gori 7:30and 10:45 (5GEL), Bakuriani 9:00, 10:30, 12:15, 14:00,15:00, 16:00, 17:00 (3GEL), Andeziti 16:00 (3.50GEL),Tsikhisjvari 14:00 and 17:00 (3.50GEL), Tsemi 10:30,14:30, 17:00 every day except Sunday (1GEL), Sakire12:00, 15:00, 17:00 (2GEL), Chitakhevi hourly from

8:30, 9:30 ... etc to 18:30 (0.8GEL), Kvabiskhevi 12:00and 14:00 (1GEL), Chobiskevi 8:30, 11:00, 14:00, 17:00(1GEL), Dviri 10:20, 11:45, 14:30 (1GEL), Tadzrisi12:00 (bus, 1.50GEL) and 17:00 (minibus, 2GEL),Timotesubani 10:30, 13:30, 17:00 (1.5GEL).Trains leave from two different train stations. From sta-tion nr 1., in the center of town, trains leave to Tbilisi at7:00 and 16:40 (2GEL). From Tbilisi, trains to Borjomileave at 6:40 and 16:40, the journey takes between 4 and5 hours. The slow train to Bakuriani leaves at 7:15 and10:55 from railway station nr 2, a bit outside of town. Inthe morning, you could catch the train to Tbilisi at 7 andthen change at the next stop, which is station nr 2 - other-wise a taxi is 3GEL. The train to Bakuriani takes 3 hours,so if you make a day trip it’s quicker to take the bus backto Borjomi, or you could take the train back at 10:00 and14:15.

20.2 Get around

Borjomi is small enough to walk everywhere. The touristinformation is staffed by Artur who is super helpful,speaks fluent English and will give you a map of townand an overview of places to go. He can also arrange aguest house from you, and will organize for the host topick you up at the tourist office.

20.3 See

• The Borjomi Museum of Local Lore is located atTsminda Nino 5. Admission 3 GEL, tour in Englishor Hebrew 15 GEL. Opening hours 10am-7pm Jun-Sep, to 5pm Oct-May.

20.4 Do

• City park. Stretched along the Borjomula river,city park contains the source of the Borjomi min-eral water. First part of park contains park amuse-ments and cafes. Distant part of the park is great for

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78 CHAPTER 20. BORJOMI

a walk, about 2km to a natural pool that’s popularwith locals for a picnic. Near the entrance there isan option to use cable car to get up to plateau, wherethere’s a ferris wheel.

20.4.1 Borjomi Kharagauli national park

• (W 10 km of the city).

Hike in this largest national park in Georgia. It coversabout 8% of the total territory of Georgia. The diver-sity of physical, geographical and especially climaticalconditions of its has shaped the wealth and variety of itsflora and fauna. Apart from the largely untouched na-ture of Borjom-Kharagauli, there are numerous culturalmonuments. In particular, there are two easily accessi-ble churches, built in 9th century. At present eight touristtrails are officially operating in the national park. Theyvary in length, duration and complexity. Open from Apruntil OctoberPlan your trip by going to the administration of the of-fice, which is a bit to the west of Borjomi (23 Meskhetistr.), and get a free access permission and a map of thearea with all the routes and shelters as well. There arewell-marked hikes of 1, 2 or 3 days, through forests andmeadows.If you want to take a hike in the national park, get enoughsupplies, water, and some basic sleeping gear with you,as the cabins are very basic. You can rent sleeping bagsfor 5GEL a day, but no mattresses, and the shelter bedsare wooden planks. You pay a small fee for staying in theshelter (10GEL) or camping (5GEL). The permit to thepark is free, but make sure to have it on you since rangersmight ask for it. It is also to take a one day hike fromBorjomi to Qvabiskhevi (or the other way around) andthen hitchhike or take a local bus or taxi back to Borjomi.It is also possible to take multiple day hikes. That way youget to go to the higher parts (up to 2600 meters).

20.5 Buy

Near the entry to the city park, locals sell home-made jamfrom pine tree cones. It is claimed that the jam is usefulwhen curing upper respiratory tract infections and is goodfor improving immunity.

20.6 Eat

• Old Borjomi: excellent quality food, nice inte-rior, wifi. They make perhaps the best khachapuriin Georgia. According to the tourist informationtheir chicken in garlic sauce (Chkmeruli) has turnedmany away from vegetarianism.

• Taverna: Restaurant near the entrance of the mainbridge (Silamazis Khidi) and the small park (pataraparki), Taverna has a wide selection of traditionalGeorgian dishes. Taverna enjoys a reputation for itsmushrooms cooked in clayware.

• Inka Cafe: some Western-style dishes and pastries.

• 1+2 bar: by the entrance of the mineral water park,with nice wines and slow service.

20.7 Drink

20.8 Sleep

• Hotel Borjomis Kheoba. 28 comfortable rooms,mineral water spas, outdoor swimming pool, bar andrestaurant. Prices from 65 to 250 Georgian lari in-cluding all meals.

• Borjomi Hostel - NOT RECCOMMENDED.This place has a nice sign out the front and loca-tion. However as of March 2016 the dorm has noelectricty. If you don't mind spending the night in apitch black room with no heating or electricity, therate is 15GEL a night.

• Hotel Meidani - Very nice clean rooms with goodheating, a nice on-suite with a hot shower, comfort-able twin/double beds, tv, and wifi. Excellent loca-tion in the middle of Borjomi. 40GEL a night (Mar2016).

• Marina’s Guesthouse: Cozy guesthouse near thecenter of town and a popular way station for expats,backpackers and tourists. Marina’s son and daughterboth speak fluent English.

• Hotel Borjomi. Elegant, wooden Tsarist-era houselocated in central Borjomi, next to the Museum ofLocal Lore. Bed and breakfast available. Prices startfrom 70 Georgian lari. English and Russian spoken.

• Leo’s Homestay, 18 Pirosmani (turn right ontothe street after the Borjomi museum of local lore -the home is on the left side of the street.), ☎ +995574861516, +995 593981595, +995 551414422, e-mail: [email protected]. Leo and his motherhave 2 rooms that can accommodate 7-8 or so peo-ple. The price for the night is 20 GEL a person,and for 5 GEL more Leo’s mother will make break-fast, which often features a substantial number ofpancakes. Leo is also a great source of informationabout Borjomi and the surrounding area, and regu-larly arranges excursions for his guests, such as tripsto Vardzia and horseback riding in the Borjomi-Kharagauli national park. He also speaks excellentEnglish.

20.9. GO NEXT 79

• Hillside Guesthouse, gogia,s tsikhe 4 (turn rightonto the street after the Borjomi museum than straitand you can see borjomi tv station and than youcan see hillside guesthouse sine), ☎ +995568737361,e-mail: [email protected]. Hillside Guest House,Gogias Tsikhe St 4 (The house is located 5 min-utes up the hill from the center), ☎ +995568737361,[5]. Excellent central location only approx. 400m from the bus station (Direction towards the Mu-seum). Still very quiet, due to location at the end ofa dead end street. Sitting in front of the guesthousecan be very relaxing, especially when Nick’s two catsare around. Nick and his mother are very friendly,helpful and socialising. Nick speaks English quitewell. The local breakfast prepared by Nick’s motherwas always very yummy and filling. Also it was easyto get in contact with other travellers here, whichadded to the traveller friendly atmosphere. WiFiworked very well and washing service can be pro-vided. A good viewpoint for the city near the GogiaFortress is situated only a 15 minutes hike behindthe guesthouse. Everything in town can be reachedon foot. Many side trips by public transport can bedone from Borjomi. 20 Gel and up. 20. (updatedNov 2015)

20.9 Go next

Bus and train timetable for Borjomi as of March 2015

• The tourist information offers a 30GEL day tripto Vardzia, stopping at the Green Monastery,Akhaltsikhe fortress with a very nice museum(7GEL), and a natural sulphur spring where you canbathe in 45deg water.

• There are several bus connections to other placesin Georgia. The timetable in the image gives an

overview. Note that the prices can be different whilethe departure times are quite stable even for years(according to the Marshrutka drivers).

• The sightseeing train to Bakuriani ski resort (1 or2 gel, 38 km) which leaves from railway station #2is nice for sightseeing and takes 2 hours. It leavesBorjomi for Bakuriani every day at 7:15 and 10:55.Trains in the opposite direction leave Bakuriani at10:00 and 14:15.

Chapter 21

Vardzia

Vardzia is a cave monastery site in Georgia, on the slopesof the Erusheti Mountain. The first cave dwellings werecreated in the second half of the 12 century during thereign of Giorgi III. The site is now a part of the VardziaHistorical–Architectural Museum-Reserve. Vardzia wasseriously damaged by the earthquake of 1283, but soonpartially rebuilt.

21.1 Get in

Most people do an organized tour from Akhaltsikhe orBorjomi.By public transport; from Akhaltsikhe there are threemarshrutkas/buses a day. Vardzia to Akhaltsikhe bustimes are: 9am, 1pm, and 3pm.Admission to Vardzia is 3GEL.

21.2 Get around

Vardzia itself is only walkable.Vanis Kvabebi, another cave monastery, is less than anhours walk away.

21.3 See

• Church of the Dormition. A late 12th cen-tury church decorated by elaborate mural paintings.Among them are the portraits of Giorgi III and ofqueen Tamar, his daughter and successor, duringwhose reign the paintings were created. Other paint-ing include scenes from the New Testament and im-ages of saints.

21.4 Do

21.5 Buy

21.6 Eat

There is a cafe opposite the ticket office which operatesonly in peak season.

21.7 Drink

21.8 Sleep

There are a number of guesthouses around the Vardziaarea.Staff and people hanging around the Vardzia ticket officewill likely offer you a guesthouse if you so need one.One such is Gocha Guesthouse, run by Gocha who checksyour tickets on entry. His guesthouse is in the nearby vil-lage of Nakalakevi. He will take you to and from theguesthouse according to his work hours. Comfortablebeds, wifi, and homecooked meals. He charges 20 Lari anight for a bed, 10 Lari for dinner, 10 for breakfast, and5 if you try either his homemade wine of vodka. He mayoffer to take you to the Madame [Nuns] Monastery andwill charge you 10 Lari for his troubles. He speaks littleEnglish but enough to get by.

21.9 Go next• Vanis Kvabebi is another cave monastery nearby.

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Chapter 22

Southwestern Georgia

If you are looking for the region of the US state,see Southwest Georgia.

Southwestern Georgia is a region along Georgia’s BlackSea coast, which borders Turkey to the south. Southwest-ern Georgia consists of two regions: Ajara and Guria.The region includes a variety of localities, from historictowns and cities, through ports, industrial areas, beachresorts and natural reserves. It therefore offers a variedmixture of holiday opportunities to the travelers, as youcan engage both in traditional beach activities and do afair share of inspiring sightseeing.

22.1 Cities

• Batumi — the capital of Ajara and Georgia’s thirdlargest city is a pleasant Black Sea port with greatAjaruli cuisine

• Chakvi — small town in Ajara, beach resort

• Chokhatauri — small town in Guria, district center

• Grigoleti — beach resort

• Keda — district center

• Khulo — a town in Ajara’s highland, district center

• Kobuleti — a small town, beach resort

• Lanchkhuti — small town, district center

• Likhauri with medieval fortress and 15th centuryChurch

• Mtispiri with medieval Askana Fortress

• Nabeghlavi — the source of mineral water of thesame name

• Nasakirali balneotherapeutic health resort with min-eral water

• Ozurgeti — the capital of Guria is a fairly smalltown; near the Shemokmedi Monastery and theLikhauri Church

• Ureki — beach resort

• Sarpi — coastal village in Ajara, right next to theborder gate with Turkey

• Shemokmedi with 6th century Monastery

• Shukhuti The venue for the annual Leloburti (arugby match between the neighboring villages ofKvemo and Zemo Shukhuti), always on the Ortho-dox Easter Sunday

• Tsikhisdziri,village with 3,000 years old PetraFortress

22.2 Other destinations• Ajara

• Kintrishi Natioanal Park• Kobuleti national Reserve• Mtirala National Park• Machakhela National Park

• Guria

• Bakhmaro — mountain resort• Gomismta — mountain resort• Kolkheti National Park and Paliastomi lake• Surebi• Zoti

22.3 Understand

Southwestern Georgia consists of two regions:

• Ajara — a 30% Muslim autonomous region ofGeorgia with beaches, palm trees, and wonderfullyfattening food

• Guria — a region famous for its “Gurian Riders,”trick horse riders who toured the United States aspart of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show

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82 CHAPTER 22. SOUTHWESTERN GEORGIA

The climate of Southwestern Georgia ranges from sub-tropical to high alpine, and is one of Georgia’s greenestand wettest regions.

22.4 Talk

Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the re-gion. Turkish is also fairly prevalent in Batumi. Muchof the older generation speak Russian and the youngergeneration is increasingly speaking English due to hostil-ity towards Russia, and also because English is taught inschools since independence and has replaced Russian asa second language in schools nation-wide. When in needfor help, look for younger people, as they are more likelyto know some English.

22.5 Get in

22.5.1 By plane

Batumi has its international airport. Taxi from airport tothe city costs about 10 GEL. Other nearest major interna-tional airports are in Trabzon, Turkey and Kutaisi. Thereare regular flights from Tbilisi to Batumi international air-ports.

22.5.2 By train

Batumi Airport

Batumi, Ureki, Kobuleti and Ozurgeti has a railway sta-tions. These cities are linked to each other and to Tbil-isi by the railway. Tickets can be bought at stations andonline.

22.5.3 By bus

There are daily coach arrivals and departures in sev-eral directions: Kutaisi, Samtredia, Poti and Tbilisi, also

from Istanbul, as well as easy mini bus (marshrutka).Marshrutkas head to Btumi and Ozurgeti from the busstations in Tbilisi and Kutaisi. Batumi is the easiest des-tination to get to, and is widely served by public transport.

22.5.4 By car

Batumi, Kobuleti and Ureki lies on the well-developedinternational road which links Turkey to Georgia. Othercities lies on national roads which are paved with con-crete. Roads are beautiful and ideal for a scenic drive.

22.6 Get around

Buses and Mini buses (Marschrutkas) go in the surround-ing area. Cycling in easy in Batumi. Marshrutkas aregenerally the way to go when traveling outside of Batumior Kobuleti.

22.7 See

There are many historic monuments, museums, galleriesand other attractions in the old city of Batumi, which isprobably where more tourists will start their visit anyway.Do not miss Roman era Gonio Fortress in the southerpart of the city. Head for the beaches of Gonio, Kvariati,Sarpi, Chakvi to experience the black sea and high nightlife of the resorts, or head to Shekvetili, Ureki or Grigo-leti which also offer a number of more relaxed beachesand curable sands than those close to Batumi.

• See Ozurgeti, historical capital of the region, withSoviet era architecture

• Explore Guria’s historic medieval monasteries,churches and fortresses in villages Likhauri,mTispiri and Shemokmedi.

22.7.1 Parks

• Batumi Botanical Garden

• Kintrishi National Park — east from Kobuleti

• Kobuleti National Reserve — in Kobuleti

• Machakhela National Park

• Mtirala National Park — east from Chakva

• Kolkheti National Park — north from Ureki

• Eristavi Palace and Park — near Chokhatauri

22.12. STAY SAFE 83

22.8 Do

• Ski in Goderdzi Pass, Mountainous resorts of Ajara.

• Trekking and Hiking in other mountain resorts:Bakhmaro, Gomismta or Beshumi

• Batumi offers great biking opportunities

• Visit Guria Park — large amusement center be-tween Ureki and Kobuleti

22.9 Eat

“Adjaruli Khachapuri”

The food differs slightly in Gurian and Ajara. You shouldtry Khakhapuri in Ajarian style. You also need to makesure you experience the fresh fish and other seafood,which is served at restaurants in Batumi and Ureki, aswell as in villages of Guria and Ajara you can try riverfish. Try “Bachlava” for dessert.

22.10 Drink

You will fins some wineries in Keda (Ajara) and Bukist-sikhe (Guria) and a lot of pubs and bars in coastal resorts:Batumi, Kobuleti and Ureki during summer season. Themost famous local wine is “Chkhaveri”.

22.11 Sleep

There is wide range of hotels, hostels and guesthousesin Batumi, Kobuleti and Ureki, included splurge inter-national brands such as Hilton, Radisson, and Sheratonhotels in Batumi.There are seven resorts in the region, of which Ureki,Shekvetili and Grigoleti are located on the Black Sea;Bakhmaro, Gomi Mountain, Balneological Nabeghlaviand Nasakirali—in the mountainous alpine zone.

22.12 Stay safe

Guria and Ajara are quite safe regions of Georgia. Takecommon precautions, especially during nighttime. Alsoavoid dark streets.

22.13 Go next

International road links Georgia trough Batumi withTurkey and it is fairly easy to catch a marshrutka or hirea taxi going to the Sarpi border, or travel to Trabzonor Istanbul from Batumi by bus. North of the region isSamegrelo and east of the region is Samtskhe-Javakheti.They can be reached by the well developed local roads.

Chapter 23

Aketi

Aketi (აკეთი) is a village in Georgia, in Guria region.Aketi is located 12km south from Lanchkhuti and 20kmnortheast from Ozurgeti.

23.1 Understand

It is known for its old churches and pottery producing.Aketi used to be one of the few center in Georgia of mak-ing wine pitchers.

23.2 Get in

23.2.1 By bus

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Lanchkhuti.

23.2.2 By car

Aketi lies on the road, which cnnects Guria's two towns:Ozurgeti and Lanchkhuti. The Road is narrow, but pavedwith concrete and beautiful and ideal for a scenic drive.

23.3 Get around

Aketi is easily covered on foot or mountain bike.

23.4 See

• Our Saviors church. church was built in developedmiddle ages

• Saint George church. church was built in 1899

• Ruins of Okona Monastery in village Atsana .church was built in 1899

Our Saviors church

23.5 Do

• Climb a cave in the village Gaguri. The cave wasused to keep local treasure from enemies.

• Fishing in the small rivers

• Swimming near Waterfall on the river Atsaura

• Do some pottery with locals, participate in makingpitchers.

23.6 Buy

Pottery products, local wine, honey

23.7 Drink

If you get invited to someone’s house, your host mayalso offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously potentvodka distilled from grapes and local wine.

23.8 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

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23.9. GO NEXT 85

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. The older generation speaks Russian flu-ently, and Armenian as well. The younger generation nowstudies English. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

23.9 Go next• Ozurgeti

• Lanchkhuti

• Chokhatauri

• Nabeghlavi

Chapter 24

Bakhmaro

Bakhmaro (ბახმარო) is a health resort in the Guria re-gion. The resort is popular in summer, it is nationallyfamous for long mountain walks and for the traditionalhorse races, which takes place every year on 19 August.

24.1 Understand

View of Bakhmaro

Bakhmaro is located in the basin of the upper reachesof the river Bakhvistskali. Bakhmaro was discovered inearly 1890s. The majority of buildings in Bakhmaro arewooden bungalows that are inhabited in summer, espe-cially July and August, by travelers.

24.2 Get in

24.2.1 By bus

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Tbilisi,Ozurgeti or Chokhatauri or minibus going to Bakhmaroduring summer season.

24.2.2 By car

Well developed regional road connects Bakhmaro toChokhatauri. The approximately 50 km road from

chokhatauri is paved and in good condition. Bakhmarois difficulty accessible only from November to April.Riding a car lasts from one and a half hours fromChokhatauri. To reach the resort you have to be carefulthat the radiator does not begin to cook on the downhill,the brakes are not hot.An alternative route of driving is there from Khulo in Ad-jara, but this is not much more than a track and thereforeonly accessible by jeep.

24.2.3 By hiking

There are several mountain paths going to Bakhmarofrom villages of Guria. The best of them areVakijvari-Bakhmaro,Mtispiri-Bakhmaro and Gomismta-Bakhmaro

24.3 Get around

You can easily walk in and around Bakhmaro. But youcan also rent a horse (20 GEL per hour) or quads.

24.4 See

Of course, the great mountain panorama is the main at-traction of the town and its immediate surroundings.

• Spring of Beauty (სილამაზის წყარო). Very coldwater source. The path starts from Vakijvari Streetand goes down in the woods. (updated Aug 2015)

• Lonely Stone (ობოლი ქვა). Very cold watersource. The path starts from Vakijvari Street andgoes down in the woods. (updated Aug 2015)

24.5 Do

• AttendHorse Race (დოღი). August 19 (the day ofthe Transfiguration of Our Lord) is an important day

86

24.7. EAT 87

Bakhmaro Horse Race

in Bakhmaro, where the large traditional horse racewill be held. The spectacle attracts several thousandvisitors from the region but also from other regionstoo. The beginning of the race is usually about 13clock. (updated Aug 2015)

Sunrise Hill

• Watch Sunrise (მზის ამოსავალი). from a “Sun-rise hill”. You have to at 2AM and reach the highestpoint of the mountain. (updated Aug 2015)

• Zotikeli (ზოტიყელი). Path to an aul Zotikelifrom mountain resort Bakhmaro goes in the beau-tiful gorge of river Bakhvistskali. Every 12 Augusta horses race is held in Zotikeli. (updated Aug 2015)

• Watch Sunset (ჩასავალი გორა). from a “Sunsethill” (updated Aug 2015)

24.6 Buy

Apart from a few small mini markets in the resort, there isno shopping. However you can buy some delicious home-made milk products and wooden toys from local people.There is also a market where fruits and vegetables can bebought.

Bakhvistskali at Zotikeli

24.7 Eat

There is no restaurant. For this you have to go toChokhatauri or Ozurgeti. But if you are lucky, you maybe invited and get offered homemade products: housewine, home-distilled, cheese and honey. Just try.

24.8 Sleep

Most of the accommodation consists of simple woodencabins (bungalows). The toilets are outside the house, thewater comes from a source nearby. They are rented usu-ally only a weekly or seasonal basis. However, there isonly one proper hotel in Bakhmaro.

• Hotel Bakhmaro (სასტუმრო ბახმარო). USD 50per night/person. (updated Aug 2015)

24.9 Stay healthy

There is some pharmacies and a small Hospital“Mamkoli”.

24.10 Stay connect

The reception of the mobile networks is excellent in theresort, there are some dead spots in the mountains.

24.11 Go next• Ozurgeti

• Chokhatauri

• Khidistavi

• Nabeglavi

88 CHAPTER 24. BAKHMARO

• Mtispiri

Chapter 25

Batumi

View of Batumi

Batumi is the capital city of the Autonomous Republicof Ajara in the country of Georgia. Its coastal locationand sub-tropical climate make it a popular city for va-cationers across the Caucasus. It’s the party capital ofthe region with a night life to match which increasinglyincludes big name international DJs on the beach-frontclubs. Expect to party on the beaches with Russians, Ar-menians, Azerbaijanis, Iranians, Turks, Dutch, and, ofcourse, Georgians.

25.1 Understand

25.1.1 Climate

Batumi and its vicinity is one of the important tourismand resort zones on the Georgian Black Sea littoral. Theclimate is humid subtropical. The low annual range oftemperature, with a mild winter and warm summer is acharacteristic of the city and of the Georgian coast aswell. The average annual temperature is 14.5C. The av-erage temperature in January, the coldest month, is 7.1Cand in August, the warmest month, 23.2 C. The annualprecipitation is 2560 mm. Showers are frequent. It rarely

snows but when it does, the snow melts easily. The aver-age annual temperature of the sea is 16.7 C at the shore.

25.1.2 Language

While the official, and majority language is Georgian,English, Russian, and Turkish, are also commonly spo-ken. Russian is spoken by most older Georgians, whileEnglish is spoken by many (though hardly most) youngerones. In addition, because of the large number of Turkishtourists, it’s not uncommon for locals to speak Turkish, orat least simple Turkish phrases.

25.2 Get in

25.2.1 By plane

Batumi International Airport (IATA: BUS) is located2 km south of the city.The following airlines operate service to/from Batumi In-ternational Airport:

• Aerosvit (Kiev-Boryspil)

• Belavia (Minsk)

• Georgian Airways (Donetsk, Kharkiv, Kiev-Boryspil, Moscow-Domodedovo, Odessa, Tbilisi)

• Turkish Airlines (Istanbul-Atatürk)

25.2.2 By bus

Buses and minibuses (marshrutkas) operate regularlybetween Batumi and Tbilisi. Travel time is 6 hoursand the minibuses are more comfortable than the localmarshrutkas in the city. The fare is 18 GEL. The sceneryalong the way is breathtaking.Daily buses also operate between Batumi and Trabzon,Turkey, with stops in Rize and the border crossing atSarpi. Make sure you meet all visa requirements beforecrossing the border into Georgia.

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90 CHAPTER 25. BATUMI

There are two Marshrutka stations. One has long dis-tance minibuses to Kutaisi, Tbilisi, Poti, etc. The other,on Tbilisi Square, has marshutkas to Sarpi (2 GEL, 20minutes).

25.2.3 By car

25.2.4 By train

Georgian Railways operates trains between Batumi andTbilisi. Night train leaves Tbilisi at 22:55 and arrives inBatumi’s Makhinjauri Station at 7:05 the next morning.Day train #30 leaves Tbilisi at 8:50 and arrives in Ba-tumi at 4PM. First class costs 40 GEL, second class costs23 GEL, seats cost 13 GEL. In first class, there are twopeople per cabin, the berths are a little short, narrow andhard but rather comfortable, and linen is provided. Nighttrain #621 returns from Batumi’s Makhinjauri Station toTbilisi at 22:10, arriving around 7am (as of 2014). Sincethe schedule changes quite often, you can check beforehand on the Georgian Railways Web site - you shouldn'ttrust the English version, though: if they do update thewebsite, they will probably update only the version inGeorgian.Makhinjauri Station is 5 km north of Batumi, and taxisand buses await incoming passengers. A taxi from Ba-tumi’s city center costs 3 to 5 GEL.Train tickets can be bought at the station or from an of-fice in the old town at 5 General Mazniashvili St (betweenMelashvili and Abashidze). This office is very plain andnondescript with no signs in English. The door and win-dow frames are green and some metal chairs are visibleinside. Hours are 09:00 to 18:00.Reserve your seats in advance on the weekends, as manyGeorgians flock to the seaside.

25.2.5 By boat

Ferries run from Sochi, Russia and from Ilyichevsk,near Odessa, Ukraine ($145, 42 hours, irregular ser-vice). More boats are operated from Poti (5 GEL withmarshrutka and take one hour). It’s a kind of Freightertravel. Probably best to call first to make inquiries, toavoid coming back from Poti empty-handed. The book-ing office is on Kutaisi 34, but the staff only speaks Rus-sian and is not very helpful.A boat operates between Sochi, Russia to Batumi,Georgia. It is a high speed hydrofoil which operatesthree times a week, Wednesdays at 10:30AM, Fridays at9:30AM, Sundays at 10:30AM In 2010, the cost is 3500rubles for adults, 1750 rubles for children. The numberis +7-8622-609-622 or +7-918-409-12-96. Sochi portschedule

25.3 Get around

25.3.1 By bicycle

BatumVelo on the beach promenade.

An automatic bike sharing scheme, called BatumVelo isavailable to rent bicycles and ride along the beaches.

25.4 See

• Black Sea. enjoy the waves and admire the beachand the port itself, as well as the Ottoman-era clocktower

• Dolphinarium. Tu-Su shows start at 14:00, 17:00,21:00.

• Batumi Botanical Garden, (Take minibus 31across the cablecar station in the direction to the coaston the north. It costs 60cents and finishes at the park-ing of the botanical garden.). 8AM to 9PM. Georgiahas a remarkable tradition of (royal) botanical gar-dens. It is a quiet spot, next to the Black Sea on ahigh cliff and it both green and cool. Plan on a visithere to take a half day to nearly a full day as it is verylarge. 8 GEL.

• Medea statue, (in the center of the city). Statue ofMedea and the Golden Fleece in the center of thecity, near the Iranian/Azerbaijani joint consulate.

25.4.1 Places of Worship

• Orthodox, Catholic and Armenian churches.

• Old Mosque.

• Synagogue.

25.6. BUY 91

25.4.2 Museums

• Archaeological Museum, 77, Ilia Chavchavadzestr., ☎ +995 422 23694, +995 422 24013. Tu-Su10:00 – 18:00. Georgian and foreign coins, bronzevessels, glassware, ceramic, etc 2 GEL.

• State Museum of Art, 8, Gorgiladze str. Tu-Su10:00 – 18:00. Paintings of famous Georgian andforeign artists, sculptures and some samples of dec-orative art. 1 GEL.

• The Nobel Brothers Batumi Technological Mu-seum, 3, Leselidze str, ☎ +995 88 222 7 11 75. Tu-Su 10:00 – 18:00. Exhibits inventions introducedto Batumi at the end of 19th - beginning of 20thcenturies by Nobel Brothers, Rotschilds and Manta-shev. 2 GEL.

• Khariton Akhvlediani Museum. Tu-Su 10:00 –17:00. Houses archaeological materials of XII-IXc.c. B.C 1 GEL.

25.4.3 Further afield

• Remains of Gonio Fortress, village Tsikhisdziti(Catch a bus from Tbilisi Square to Sarpi (1 GEL)and tell the driver you want to get out at Gonio.), ☎+995 595 352120. Tu-Su 10:00 – 17:00. Locatedat the sea shore the ruins host stunning views andinteresting architecture. 3 GEL.

• Castle of Petra, village Tsikhisdziti, ☎ +995 590880 121. Early medieval complex.

25.5 Do

Walk along the 'Bulvar' and watch the beach. During day-time families and youngsters play, during nighttime it isthe favourite place for couples and party-goers. There area number of restaurants and bars both on the beach and alittle inland. The area is generally safe, but watch out forpick-pocketing.

• Panoramic Wheel (At the end of the seaside Blvand beginning of the port.). Attraction total time :7min 3 GEL.

• Cable car. 09:00 - 02:00. Goes directly to the small(about 250m height) nearby hill with a nice restau-rant on top of it. Stunning views, especially at night.5GEL.

• Aqua Park, 12, Khimshiashvili St. (3 km from thecity centre), ☎ +995 422 210101.

• Olympic Swimming Pool, Batumi Plaza Hotel,50 Chavchavadze str. Mo-Fr 07:00-23:00, Sa,Su09:00-21:00.

• Boat tour (in front of Panoramic Wheel). Lots ofboats offering boat tours. Yacht can also be char-tered. from 15 GEL.

• 6 May Park. Nice park with Nurigeli Lake in themiddle of it. There is also a zoo corner in the north-ern part of it, but some animals (monkeys in partic-ular) are kept in quite a tiny cages, so animal loversmight not enjoy it.

25.5.1 Theatres

• BatumiDramaTheatre, 1 Rustaveli Ave., ☎ +995422 274280.

• Batumi Puppet and youth state Theatre,M.Abashidze Ave. 49, ☎ +995 422 276234, +995422 270593.

25.5.2 Events

• Black Sea Jazz Festival. Annual Jazz festival heldon 24-27 of July.

25.6 Buy

Note that as per usual in Georgia, prices are almost al-ways slightly higher in the supermarkets than in the smallfamily-run shops. This is counter to what most westernerswill be used to. The difference is about 5% to 10%.

• Goodwill Supermarket, Chavchavadze Avenue.Many goods not available in smaller shops. Manyof the products come from Germany.

25.7 Eat

Western Georgia has plenty of local flavors, but in Ba-tumi the dish youmust try is a special kind of khachapurinamed acharuli khachapuri (Ajarian khachapuri) that re-sembles a Viking boat, with the cheese all mixed up withan egg in the center. Avoid this one if you have highcholesterol, but you'll be missing out — it’s absolutelydelicious.

• Adjara, Kutaisi street 11 (close to HB restaurant - agerman style place (it’s the only blue building in thisarea). A wide variety of different kinds of local andinternational food (khachapuris, pkhalis, pakhlava

92 CHAPTER 25. BATUMI

etc ..). If you crave for something sweet then theirbrownie is something for you. They have free WiFiand a friendly English-speaking staff.

• Boulangerie (ბულანჟერი), M. Abashidze Street 11(near the corner of Mazniashvili Street). A French-style bakery/cafe which looks quite posh but hasmuch lower prices than similar places in Tbilisi. Avery nice cappuccino or latte is 3 GEL. There aremany cakes, croissants, etc.

• Cafe La Vita Batumi (on Rustaveli Avenue, acrossthe park from the Theater.).

• Cafe Literaturuli, K. Gamsakhurdia St 18 (nearEurope Square (formerly Era Square)). This upscalebookstore-cafe has a number of branches in Tbilisi(in Kala, Vake, Vera, and Saburtalo), but the Batumilocation is all the more attractive given the relativedearth of good and service-oriented restaurants inBatumi. Coffees, cakes, and basic Georgian sand-wiches (plus khachapuri and lobiani) all available,although the menu seems more like a guideline towhat might be available on any given day rather thana list of what’s actually in the kitchen.

• Press Cafe, 1 Akhmed Melashvili Street, Batumi(on the coastal road right next to the Ukrainianrestaurant), ☎ +995 422 27 52 79. Mon - Sun:10:00-01:00. It has fast Wifi (for Batumi) and cheapfood and drinks, but beware at some point you willbe kicked out suddenly for a school group!

• Privet iz Batumi, 39 Abashidze (near EuropeSquare (formerly Era Square)). This charming“colonial Russia” theme cafe is a Batumi institution,with Georgians as well as foreigners peopling its pic-turesque outdoor tables. The menu is short on hotdishes, but the many kinds of blinis are delicious.

• San Remo Restaurant (on the seaside, at the southend of the Batumi Boulevard walking path). Elegant,with good Georgian and international food.

• Munich (მიუნჰენი), Kutaisi/Kostava str.8/5, 6000,☎ 0422 227284. 10:00-2:00. Restaurant with Ger-man traditional cuisine. Pizza, Seafood and Vegandishes are also served. Paying: Visa, American Ex-press, Mastercard and Cash. Restaurant has open-air seats also. A bit overpriced. $15 for one coursemeal per person. (updated Oct 2015)

25.8 Drink

• Eredeli’s Bar (ერედელის ბარი), N. BaratashviliSt. 1 (Down the stairs to a door with no sign andno name on the diagonal street just next to EuropeSquare (formerly Era Square) where the monumentto Medea and the Golden Fleece is.). A very cool bar

that attracts the cool locals and expat English teach-ers. There are no signs and you might have to ringthe doorbell on nights with live music, but it’s not aprivate club. Very nice and friendly staff and theyhave the best cha cha I've tasted. The Caesar saladis also excellent. It’s also a gallery and it has WIFI.

• Metro Bar, Melashvili st. 11, ☎ +995 8 422 27 3042. A nice but small bar that often has live musicand attracts the cool locals as well as expat Englishteachers.

• Vinyl Bar, Dumbadze str. (on Europe Square (for-merly Era Square), near the Iranian and Azerbaijaniconsulates), ☎ +995 93331499. Small, Cozy Placeto hang out for Beer, Pizza and Live Music. GreatStaff, Great Service. A sweet bar ran by sweet peo-ple.

25.9 Learn• R. Shanin Lyceum. a prestigious private school for

primary and secondary pupils

• BSU-SRUShota Rustaveli University.

• Batumi State Maritime Academy. many youngmen and women in midshipman uniforms

• Batumi International University (across the roadfrom Marina Complex.).

25.10 Sleep

Batumi increasingly attracts investors and well heeled vis-itors from Russia, Iran and Central Asia. The emphasis ison casinos and luxury hotels. Some of the ambitious hotelprojects are currently (March 2012) stalled. Prices varydepending on proximity to the beach and level of serviceprovided. Cheapest option are from 40 GEL for a doubleroom incl breakfast.

25.10.1 Budget

• Batumi Hostel ([email protected]), 13Mazniashvili Street (At the corner of Kostava Street),☎ +995 555 507 705. Check-in: 13:00, check-out:12:00. Comfortable hostel in a nice house in themiddle of the old town. Entrance is camouflaged.Discounts available in and from Friends Hostel inthe old town of Tbilisi. Free WIFI. Laundry. Pri-vate room also available. Two showers and bath-room, kitchen, view on piazza and sea from balcony.Seasonal property (opened for 2012 season in May).Dorm 20 GEL.

25.10. SLEEP 93

• Bbeach Hostel Batumi, 32 Kldiashvili st. (walkon the main Rustaveli avenue till you reach Tourisminformation center (just after Sheraton Hotel), takeleft turn at the traffic lights along the park on yourright. Take the first left and you are 5 steps awayfrom the yard), ☎ +995 595 715 745, e-mail:[email protected]. Check-out: 1PM. Inthe centre 2 min from the sea with huge open terraceand BBQ area; air conditioning; free Wi-fi; securitylockers; 24h security tours desk. Seasonal Prop-erty (open from 15 Jul to 5 Sept).Will be closedfor 2012 Season Dorm from €6.5, Privates from€14 p.p..

• Eiffel Tower Hostel ([email protected]), M. Abashidze 39 (One blockfrom Europe Square,Above Cafe: Privet iz Batumi),☎ +995 577 98 5725. Check-in: 13:00, check-out:12:00. Really awesome place run by a Welshmanan American and a Georgian girl. This place isfun and relaxing and is in a great location. If youradventurous sleep on the top level of the 3 storybunkbeds. . Dorm 25 GEL.

• Globus Hostel Batumi, 54 Mazniashvili str. (For-merly Rover Hostel. In the centre of Old Batumi,2blocks down from the Tbilisi square), ☎ +995 42227 67 21 (Call ahead or the door may be locked), e-mail: [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00.Rooms are bright and clean.The hostel is completelynew and fresh. Air conditioning, free laundry, freeWi-fi, free sheets and towels, free maps, free teaand coffee 24h. Discounts in local cafés and inRover Hostel Tbilisi. lat:41°38'52.02\char"0022\relax{}N long: 41°38'30.39"E Dorms: 15 USD.

• Gulnasi’sGuesthouse, 24/A Lermontov Street (offChavchavadze Street, minibus 25, 28, 45 from bus-station; minibus 20 or bus 101 from train station -get off at Lermontov), ☎ +995 599 797224, e-mail:[email protected]. facebook: gulnasi’s Guesthouse; It’s possible to use the kitchen; hot showers,WIFI, free meals will be offered frequently. Outsidethe summer season the same place is also a schoolfor small children but in the summer season the kidswill be on vacation. This may be the best budgetoption with wheelchair access. From 10 euro.

• Sky Hostel, Inarisidze St. 16/59 (Quite far out fromthe centre on the side of the city nearer Turkey up-stairs in an old apartment building.), ☎ +995 79027 66 70. A useful option if other places are full.Kitchen but no fridge. WIFI and laundry are avail-able. Most staff don't know a lot of English. As ofMay 2012 the water supply was often cut off due toinfrastructure improvements. Dorm 20 GEL.

25.10.2 Mid-range

• Boombully Studio, M. Abashidze Ave 1 (Nextto Batumi state Drama Theater and Radisson Ho-tel), ☎ +995 551 100172, +995 322 931638, e-mail: [email protected]. Spacious andclean studio type apartment. With all the necessaryamenities. Room service available upon request.Location is perfectly adjusted to the Batumi’s oldtown as well as connected to it’s new part. Two min-utes from Batumi’s Boulevard main entrance. Fiveminutes to the beach. Please note advanced bookingis necessary to check-in.

• Hotel EraPalace, 77 Z. Gorgiladze St (on theformer 'Era' St), ☎ +995 222 20000, e-mail:[email protected]. From 120 GEL.

• Iliko(?), Vakhtang Gorgasali St., between K. Gam-sakhurdia Str. and Gen. Mazniashvili, in the heartof town. Reasonably clean. Only Russian and Geor-gian spoken. Situated in a quiet spot. Owners runPyramid as well, which has similar prices. 20-40GEL for two people.

• Lavro, Pushkin St., between Tbilisis Moedani andStalin Museum. A room for with no bathroom costs20 GEL (summer 2005). Reasonably clean, hot wa-ter.

• Mercury, 10/12 Chavchavadze St., near TbilisisMoedani, in the heart of town, ☎ +995 422 277501.Check-out: 12.00h. Reasonably clean. English spo-ken. Situated in a noisy spot, not worth the money80 GEL for two people.

• Hotel Ritsa, Z.Gamxakhurdia Street, no. 16, ☎+995 222 73292. Clean, smart and modern hotellocated in the old town. 60-100 GEL for two peo-ple, breakfast included.

• Sputnik Boutique Hotel, Shervashidze Agh-marti, No: 28, ☎ +995 422 276066, e-mail:[email protected]. Quiet environment, greatview of Batumi. 70 GEL for standard rooms withqueen size beds.

25.10.3 Splurge

• Sheraton Batumi, Ninoshvili St. Direct beach ac-cess and friendly service. 203 rooms including 26suites.

• Intourist Palace, Ninoshvili St., on the promenade.Grand, spacious with all amenities. From $110.

94 CHAPTER 25. BATUMI

• Radisson Blu Hotel, Batumi, 1 Ni-noshvili Street, ☎ +995 422 288 888, e-mail:[email protected]. Designed by Ital-ian architect Michele De Lucchi, located on thebeachfront near business district.

• BatumiHilton, Ninoshvili St. Still under construc-tion in 2014 but looks very promising.

25.11 Go next• Khulo - village in the mountains of Ajara, 3 hours

drive East of Batumi

• Kobuleti - sleepy nearby coastal town

• Sarpi - border village with Turkey, 15 km south ofBatumi

• Tbilisi - The capital of Georgia

• Kutaisi - The 'Marshrutka' will get you to the towncentre, or drop you off at the airport on the way, for15 GEL. Usually it takes 2 - 2.5 hours, but give your-self about 3 or so, the bus will wait in Batumi untilit is full, which could mean waiting on the bus foran extra 45 minutes. The buses leave from nearbyto the entrance to the Cable car, but the port. Youwill see them all parked there

25.11.1 Armenia

• Direct trains to Yerevan run daily during summer-time - the train leaves 15.35 and you'll arrive toYerevan around 7.30. Second class (coupe, 4 peo-ple) costs 93GEL.

25.11.2 Turkey

• Direct buses from the terminal to various cities inTurkey. Coaches to Istanbul 60-80 GEL dependingon operator.

• Trabzon, Turkey

Chapter 26

Chokhatauri

Chokhatauri (ჩოხატაური) is a town and distric centerin Georgia, in the Guria region. Chokhatauri is the capi-tal of the administrative district (Raioni) in Guria. Nearchokhatauri There are numerous attractions, such as themonastery of Udabno, the mosque Zoti, the palace ofGoraberezhouli and mineral water source of Nabeghlavi.

26.1 Understand

Chokhatauri View

It is good point to visit old churches and monasteries andfor fishing and hiking. The region around the town islargely agriculturally used (wine and tea cultivation, dairyfarming).

26.2 Get in

26.2.1 By plane

The Kutaisi International Airport is located 40 km north-east; the Batumi International Airport about 80 km south-west of the town. A taxi from the Kutaisi airport costs 30Lari.

26.2.2 By train

The nearest railway station is located in Sadschawacho, 20km north of Chokhatauri. Fast trains from Tbilisi keepin Samtredia (3:50, 17 GEL); a taxi from Samtredia afterChokhatauri costs about 25 lari. From Ozurgeti (27 kmsouth-west; by taxi 15 Lari) depart daily two direct trainsto Tbilisi (a day train, a night train, about 10 hours, from15 GEL)

26.2.3 By bus

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Tbilisi,Batumi or Ozurgeti. A bus station. is located in thesouthern part of the city, next to the stadium and the mar-ket, where you can catch regular buses to mini nearbytowns and the villages of the region. Most Marschrutkaswait at a “micro-bus stop” on the main road, opposite thepetrol station Socar, on passengers.

26.2.4 By car

Chokhatauri lies on the well developed regional roadKobuleti-Ozurgeti-Chokhatauri-Sajavakho. This road isan infrequently used and scenic route.

26.3 Get around

Chokhatauri is easily covered on foot or bike. You willneed good bike or taxi to go to nearby villages. Minibusesin the nearby villages leave from the bus station and froma small stop at the filling station Socar. Taxis usually waitfor passengers on the main square. There are two gasstations that are open 24 hours a Wissol and Socar.

26.4 See

• Nodar Dumbadze-park with monument of thewriter as well as a monument to Ana Kalandadze

• Movie Theater (1930s) with Stalin bust next door

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96 CHAPTER 26. CHOKHATAURI

Cinema in Chokhatauri

26.4.1 Museums

• Chokhatauri museum (ჩოხატაურისმხარეთმცოდნეობის მუზეუმი), 13 DumbadzeStr, ☎ +995 41922014. Tu-Sun. 10AM -6PM. Niko Berdzenishvili Historical MuseumChokhatauri Was founded in 1958. 1961 was thefirst exposition was held. Museum houses Archae-ological material, fighting and labor tools, burialgoods, pottery and numismatic material as wellas weapons, ethnographic material, manuscripts,personal items of Guria’s principals. free of charge.(updated Jul 2015)

• Niko Mari Memorial Museum (ნიკო მარისსახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 558176819. Tu-Sun.10AM - 5PM. Niko Mari Memorial Museum Wasfounded in 1999. Museum houses exhibitions, de-picting life of famous Georgian Scientist and Histo-rian Niko Mari. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

26.4.2 near the town

Eristavi Garden and Palace in village Gora

The main attraction of Chokhatauri district is the greatscenery, ranging from soft hills to high mountains.

• Erketi monastery (ერკეთის მონასტერი). wasbuilt in the 9th century and is located in village

Erketi, 6km south from Chokhatauri.

• Udabno Monastery (უდაბნოს მონასტერი). con-sist from two churches, one of them is caved.Monastery is located in village Shua Amaghleba, 7km north from Ozurgeti

• Eristavi Palace and garden. in Goraberezhouli,5km west from Chokhatauri, is only remained sec-ular sightseeing in Guria. The territory consists agarden, stone fence, and a palace. It is dated fromXVII century.

• Shubani. Old church ruins in village

• Bukistsikhe. Old Fortress and city ruins in village

26.5 Do

The Near of Chokhatauri is hardly touched by tourism.The hills and mountains lend themselves to hiking andmountain biking, rivers for rafting or canoeing, andswimming is possible. There are neither signposted hik-ing and cycling still prepared rafting trips or equivalentAlso you do not get equipment on the spot. But you canon your own perform these activities.

• Hiking and trekking in Surebi Mountains. Youcan go to Surebi by bus and then hike to moun-tain Mefistskaro (2850 above see level) and see twobeautiful lakes called Jaji

• Fishing

• Swimming. River Supsa is suitable for swimming,the best place is Guristba in village Bukistsikhe

• Wine tour in Bukistikhe, Iverieli winery. you cantaste delicious wine, see vineyards and buy somewine

26.6 Buy

• Weekly market “Bazroba” held every Sunday inChokhatauri. You can travel to nearby village Buk-istsikhe and buy famous Gurian wine Chkhaveri,which is grown there. So in addition to fruits andvegetables from local production and living farm an-imals (such as chickens, pigs, goats) are sold. Evenwithout buying worth of visit.

• In the center of chokhatauri there are some minimarkets and a small “Univermag”

• The halfway usable and well-stocked Supermarkt“Marula” is located in the southern part of the cityon the regional road to Bakhmaro.

26.9. SLEEP 97

Erketi

• In the village Erketi you can buy homemade honeyfrom local people. Ask for Kobidze family inKvemo Erketi village.

ATMs

• Bank of Georgia

• TBC Bank

26.7 Eat• Marula (მარულა). This is near the roundabout,

where the roads go to Bakhmaro. (updated Aug2015)

• Bakhmaro (ბახმარო), Dumbadze Str. You caneasily find this restaurant because it is in the onlythree-floor building in the center of the town. (up-dated Aug 2015)

26.8 Drink

Sachamiaseri community in winter

• Wine tour in Bukistikhe, Iverieli winery. you cantaste delicious wine, see vineyards and buy somewine

• Another wine region near Chokhatauri is Sachami-aseri, where you can get invited by the local people.Tsolikauri white wine is very popular here.

26.9 Sleep

• A small hotel (without name). It is located in thesouthern part of the city on the regional road afterBakhmaro, opposite the supermarket. (updated Aug2015)

• Guesthouse of Keti Sikharulidze-Sharashenidze,, ☎ +995 593331374. In thegreen yard of this village house there is a special“village corner” and wine cellar. The house hasfour bedrooms, a large dining-room, balconies, andtwo shared bathrooms. It is conveniently locatednear the high mountain resort of Bakhmaro (2050meters above sea level) and the Black Sea shoreresorts. The house is located 14 km from Ozurgeti;the hostess also owns a cottage at Bakhmaro resort,which is 58km. from their village. (updated Aug2015)

26.10 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

26.11 Connect

• Internet Cafe (ინტერნეტ კაფე). (updated Aug2015)

26.12 Stay healthy

• Mamkoli (მამქოლი), Dumbadze Str. ModernizedHospital Mamkoli is in the center of the town, builtwith red brick. (updated Aug 2015)

• Aversi Pharmacy (ავერსი). (updated Aug 2015)

Chapter 27

Dvabzu

Dvabzu (დვაბზუ) is a village in the Guria region, 6 kmeast from region capital Ozurgeti. The village is knownfor its beautiful landscape and agriculture.

27.1 Get in

27.1.1 By train

Nearest train Station is in Ozurgeti

27.1.2 By bus

There are several departures from Ozurgeti.

27.1.3 By car

Dvabzu is connected to Ozurgeti with paved local road.The road is in good condition.

27.2 Get around

You can easily walk or cycle in Dvabzu.

27.3 See

• Ethnographic museum (ეთნოგრაფიულიმუზეუმი). The building represents an old woodenhouse with ornaments. There are Gurian char-acteristic facilities:, barn, Oda-house, wine cellarexhibited. (updated Jul 2015)

• Dvabzu church (დვაბზუს ეკლესია). with six-meter high stone walls built from the 4th century.It is located on the left side of river Bakhvistskali(updated Jul 2015)

Ethnographic Museum

27.4 Buy

There is a well-stocked store in the village center. Youcan find another big market in Ozurgeti.

27.5 Sleep

• Nazi Javelidze guesthouse (ნაზი ჯაველიძისსაოჯახო სასტუმრო). There is one Guesthouse,further away from village center, in Gaghma Dv-abzu. You will find sign point on the central road.(updated Aug 2015)

27.6 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

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100 CHAPTER 27. DVABZU

27.7 Connect• Women for Regional Development (ქალები

რეგიონის განვითარებისთვის), ☎ +995593765481, e-mail: [email protected]. Youcan ask a local NGO to internet. (updated Jul 2015)

27.8 Go next• Ozurgeti

• Shemokmedi

• Mtispiri

Chapter 28

Khidistavi

Khidistavi (ხიდისთავი) is a village in the Guria region.The village is located in the Chokhatauri district 9 kmsouthwest from the district center and 23 km east regionalcapital Ozurgeti. Khidistavi is located on the access roadto Nabeglavi and Bakhmaro. The village is known due tothe numerous swimming places in mountain rivers.

28.1 Understand

The village is located by the river Gubaseuli, in thefoothills of the Lesser Caucasus and was founded aroundthe 1870s. The name derives from the local Khidistavib-ridge over the river from and means “bridgehead”. Theformer wooden bridge was washed away in the past dur-ing floods repeatedly, so that only the bridgeheads wereleft. Mid-20th century, the bridge was replaced by a con-crete bridge chip, which has since been stable. It is namedafter the poet and writer Nodar Dumbadze, who lived inKhidistavi.The surrounding villages live mainly from agriculture.During the Soviet era these villages were also popularplaces as summer resorts, pioneer camps and recreationalspaces. Khidistavi is lively, especially in summer whenthe expatriates coming to rest. In winter, the town is al-most dead.Climate: Subtropical. Mild, wet winters. Warm, humidsummers. The clouds that are blown away by the zoomWestwind over Black Sea, remain in the nearby moun-tains of the Lesser Caucasus and rain hanging off here.Therefore, it can rain often in the summer, usually arethe brief summer storms, some with heavy rain.

28.2 Get in

28.2.1 By plane

Nearest airports with scheduled services are located inBatumi (85km) and Kutaisi (about 50 km). A taxi to orfrom the Kutaisi airport costs as of summer 2014 about30 GEL.

28.2.2 By train

The nearest train station is located in Ozurgeti about 30km away. Another useful option is the Samtredia stationabout 45 km northeast of Khidistavi. A taxi from Samtre-dia costs about 25 GEL from Ozurgeti 15 GEL

28.2.3 By bus

Khidistavi - Bus Stop on main square

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Chokhataurior minibus going to Bakhmaro from Ozurgeti duringsummer season. Minibuses or Marschrutkas keep inKhidistavi in the village center at the beautiful busstop. Marschrutkas go irregularly from Chokhatauri orOzurgeti to Khidistawi. Also from Tbilisi (bus station“Dedakalaki” above the Central Station) depart daily at 8clock in the morning (about 5 hours, 17 GEL).Better bus services from the or in the nearby regionalcenters, and also to Batumi and Tbilisi have been fromChokhatauri, but especially from Ozurgeti. From thereyou can take a taxi or auto stop.

28.2.4 By car

Khidistavi lies on the regional road Chokhatauri-Bakhmaro. From Chokhatauri drive to Bakhmaro andabout 9 km away you will reach Khidistavi.

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102 CHAPTER 28. KHIDISTAVI

28.3 Get around

You can easily walk in Khidistavi. In the surroundingarea a car or a mountain bike is recommended (for theside streets: SUV). Even auto-stop is a good way to moveforward and.

28.4 See

Khidistavi Obelisk

The Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge, a simple, narrow concrete bridge from the 1950s,spans the river Gubaseuli. You can reach the main squareof the town by a tall maple tree whose canopy leaves ap-pear on the bridge like a tunnel. The bus stop withsplendid mosaics, one of the finest in the country, is lo-cated on the main square. Furthermore you will find theFormer Univermag - a constructivist functional build-ing from the 1970s, now vacant; and the Urban Park withMonument dedicated to Stalin’s speech.In the center you will find also Former town hall, aban-doned today; Former home of the author Ana Ka-landadze (1924-2008) (not accessible) and an old wa-termill: All technical details like water wheel are stillpresent. The mill is now electrically driven

Khidistavi - House of Ana Kalandadze

28.4.1 Museums

• Nodar Dumbadze Memorial Museum (ნოდარდუმბაძის სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 55110464, e-mail: [email protected]. Tu-Sun. 10AM - 5 PM. Nodar Dumbadze Memorial MuseumChokhatauri Was founded in 1988. Museum housesmaterials depicting life of famous Georgian writerNodar Dumbadze. free of charge. (updated Jul2015)

• Mose Gogiberidze Memorial Museum(მოსე გოგიბერიძის სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995591180494. Tu-Sun. 10 AM - 5 PM. MoseGogiberidze Memorial Museum Chokhatauri Wasfounded in 1977. Museum houses materials de-picting life of famous Georgian Philosopher MoseGogiberidze. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

28.5 Do

• Hiking and trekking in Bakhmaro mountains.There are paths trough the woods going toBakhmaro from Khidistavi village

Whitewater Baden: The rivers in and around the place canbe awarded in the summer to use for a cool refreshment.

Khidistavi - Churiistskali

28.6. BUY 103

• Tchuriistskali (ჭურიისწყალი). a walk about 20minutes from the center on a slippery slope disclosesa natural hot tub with waterfall. You can jump intothe natural pool even without danger and can bemassaged at the rapids in the river. In the summeris always busy, popular among young people. (up-dated Aug 2015)

• Large stones (დიდი ქვები). these massive rockscan be found after 20 minutes walk from the cen-ter in the middle of the river Gubaseuli, they canbe used to sunbathe on. Popular with slightly olderpeople. Access trough a private garden, ask kindlyabout access the owner. (updated Aug 2015)

• Schotaia (შოთაია). small sandy beach. Accesstrough Didi Kvebi and then a little bit along the riverupstream or directly from the street through a nar-row and steep path. (updated Aug 2015)

• Akvania (აკვანია). (updated Aug 2015)

• Lake of Luba (ლუბას ტბა). about an hour’s walkfrom the town center, lake is located on one side ofthe creek Gubaseuli a natural lake which invites forswimming and cliff jumping. There is even a smallsandy beach. Difficult to reach, it was very quiet(updated Aug 2015)

• Dzhikoia (ჯიქოია). On the island of gravel be-neath the Nodar Dumbadze-Bridge you will alsogladly bathed and sunbathed. (updated Aug 2015)

• Satavani (სათავანი). You can swim at thenice place where the river from Lubas Lake meetsGubaseuli. Water is deep enough to jump from thisvery weir into the water. (updated Aug 2015)

• Sashvalo (საშვალო). A little further away fromthe center. You have to go through a private prop-erty. There is an old house, in front of a real artnouveau bedstead. At the big rocks you pass on theright and follow a steep path to the river Sashvalo.Which you follow about 100 meters upstream to theconfluence of another river (Kalascha) by looking inflow direction right side. Now follow this river forabout 30 meters and reach a small natural lake witha sandy beach. (updated Aug 2015)

Caution: swimming places are neither protected nor su-pervised and also there is no infrastructure developed.You should be an experienced swimmer. Watch on sharprocks that lie just below the water surface and are not visi-ble. Risk of injury. Avoid jumping into unknown waters.Ii is Better to ask locals where to swim.

28.6 Buy

Buy very delicious honey in Khidistavi, from local people.Some small stores can be found in the center of Khidis-tavi, open-air markets can be found in Nabeglavi duringsummer seasonAt the bus stop in the town center, there are three smallmini markets where one gets everything vital. In mostof them there is also a vending machine where you cancharge your mobile phone with the bank. In addition tothe bus stop and fresh fruit and vegetables sold in the day-time.Better shopping options are in Chokhatauri, but espe-cially in Ozurgeti (market, bookstore). There are alsoATMs and money changers, which you will not find inKhidistavi.

• The Berdnidse family (ბერძნიძეების ოჯახი), ☎+995 590594833. sells homemade honey and honeyvodka. about 3 km east of the road to BakhmaroKhidistavi turn left after the rock wall at the firsthouses, note the small, hand-painted sign "თაფლი"(Tapli = honey). The son of the family speaks wellGerman, but is rarely at home. honey 1 kg 15 Lari;vodka 1 l 12 Lari. (updated Aug 2015)

• The Gudavadze family (გუდავაძეების ოჯახი),☎ +995 599639939. sells homemade honey honey1 kg 15 Lari. (updated Aug 2015)

28.7 Eat

There is no restaurant. For this you have to go toChokhatauri or Ozurgeti. But if you are lucky, you maybe invited and get offered homemade products: housewine, home-distilled, cheese and honey. Just try.

28.8 Stay safe

There is little crime. Police cars are patrolling repeat-edly. Some native plants in the garden or in the forestMarijuana. You may get invited to try it, but Hands off!If you are caught with drugs in Georgia, the draconianpunishments may ensue.

28.9 TalkSee also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

Chapter 29

Khulo

Khulo is a city in the Autonomus Republic of Adjara inSouthwestern Georgia.

29.1 Understand

Khulo is a cozy and small city in the mountains of Ajara.

29.2 Get in

Daily mini bus from the main bus station in Batumi, 2-3 hours, 6-8 Lari. Infrequent bus service to Akhaltsikheand Adigeni through the Goderzi pass. Hitch hiking iseasy if you know a few phrases in Georgian or Russian.

29.3 Get around

Khulo is easily walkable.

29.4 See

29.5 Do

Take the cable car across the valley. The cable carstretches 1700 meter across and a ride takes 10 minutes.The cable car is used for daily means of transportation bythe locals.

29.6 Buy

29.7 Eat

A number of shops and restaurants are located around thebus stop and in the upper part of the city.

29.8 Drink

29.9 Sleep

There is a minor hotel right next to the bus stop. 15 Larifor a clean room with toilet and shower. Other optionmay include home stays. The tourist informations officecan assist you.

29.10 Connect

29.11 Go next

105

Chapter 30

Lanchkhuti

Lanchkhuti (ლანჩხუთი) is the small town and a capi-tal of the administrative district in Georgia, in Guria re-gion. It is a good jumping off point for nearby beaches,old monasteries and rural tourism. The town lies in theColchian lowlands south of the river Rioni at the foot ofthe hill country Gurian.

30.1 Understand

Lanchkhuti was a village and gained town charter duringSoviet era. Lanchkhuti is famous for Gurian horse rid-ers, who participated in Wild West Shows in USA. Everyyear on the Orthodox Easter Monday finds in Schuchuti,5 km east of lanchkhuti, the traditional Rugby Match“Leloburti”. The economic development of Lanchkhutibegan early 20th century with the connection to the rail-way line Samtredia-Batumi. Here were - and still are -agricultural products from the area processed.

30.2 Get in

30.2.1 By plane

The nearest major international airport is in Tbilisi(320km), while Batumi (80km) and Kutaisi (50km) In-ternational Airports are the nearest accessible airports.Trabzon airport (280km) in Turkey might be an option,also.

30.2.2 By train

Lanchkhuti has a railway station, which can Be Reachedfrom both Batumi and Tbilisi. Lanchkhuti lies on the rail-way line Samtredia-Batumi. All express trains betweenTbilisi and Batumi also keep in Lanchkhuti. The trainstation is 600 meters north of the center. Tickets can bebought at stations and online.

30.2.3 By bus

There are daily coach arrivals and departures in severaldirections: Kutaisi, Samtredia, Poti and Batumi, alsoTbilisi, as well as easy mini bus (marshrutka) access tonearest villages and sites of tourist interest in the area.At the main square there is a small bus station whereMarschrutkas and taxis in the area and the nearby regionalcenters depart.

30.2.4 By car

Lanchkhuti lies on the well-developed highway “S 12”(Ureki - Samtredia). It represents a shortcut on the routeTbilisi-Batumi, as you so does not have to Poti. Thetown is linked with roads to Batumi (southwest) and Poti(northwest), Kutaisi (east) and with two regional roadswith region capital Ozurgeti (south). Roads from Ozur-geti are beautiful, but winding, and are ideal for a scenicdrive.

30.2.5 By boat

There is a small harbor in village Supsa, which is onlyused by oil tankers. Supsa is the end point of an oilpipeline from Baku. Next seaports with passenger trafficare in Poti (about 60 km) and Batumi (about 70 km).

30.3 Get around

Map of Lanchkhuti Municipality, in Georgian

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30.4. SEE 107

A small town, Lanckhuti is easily covered on foot. Thetown has no public transport system. Buses and minibuses(marshrutkas) operate only within the surrounding area.Taxis and Marschrutkas in the surrounding area can befound on the main square and on arrival of a train at thetrain station. Cycling can be an option, also, but there areno bike rentals available. Taxis are cheap and cost GEl3-5 (USD 1-2) within the town.

30.4 See

Lanchkhuti - Monument on main square

• A statue of a Gurian man, which represents theGurian uprising from 1905.

In the city center there is the theater and a nice park.

30.4.1 Museums

• Lanchkhuti museum (ლანჩხუთისმხარეთმცოდნეობის მუზეუმი), #21 NinoshviliStr, ☎ +995 593196340. Tu-Sun. 10 AM - 6PM. Lanchkhuti museum was founded in 1978.It contains archaeological, numismatic, fine art,ethnography, nature, historical exhibits. Especiallynoteworthy are bronze helmet (4th century BC),

Museum of Egnate Ninoshvili

bronze axes, ancient ceramics, 4th century bronzecross, the 11th century stone inscription, exhibitsdedicated to Gurian horse riders, who participatedin Wild West Shows in USA. 1 GEL. (updated Jul2015)

• Egnate Ninoshvili House Museum (ეგნატენინოშვილის სახლ-მუზეუმი), ☎ +995 599564794.Mo-Fr 10-17. The museum was officially openedin 1950 in honor of the famous writer Egnate Ni-noshvili. The museum consists of four exhibitionhalls. In the first section of the hall is dedicatedto Ninoshvili’s childhood. The second hall displaysillustrations of the novel “The Uprising in Guria”.The third hall tells stories illustrating the unlucky inlove, about which the writer told his story “Chris-tine”. The fourth room is fully dedicated to thetheme: “Egnate and modernity”. 1 GEL. (updatedJul 2015)

30.4.2 Around the town

Jumati monastery, 1877-1878

• Jumati Monastery (ჯუმათის მონასტერი). This16th-to-18th-century monastery is located on thehill in the village of Jumati. The monastery consists

108 CHAPTER 30. LANCHKHUTI

of a basilica of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel,a bell tower, walls and other monastic buildings. Thefacility was built in the early Middle Ages, while thefrescoes date from the 16th to 18th centuries. Thebell tower with a square base was built in 1904 andis partially destroyed today. Jumati Monastery wasan important religious and cultural center of Guria.Here valuable icons, relics and documents, some ofwhich also had secular significance, were kept. Inthe 20th century the monastery was robbed severaltimes. Fragments of several icons from Jumati arenow in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg, the Lou-vre in Paris and the Metropolitan Museum in NewYork. Beautiful views of Guria and Samegrelo low-lands and Black Sea can be seen from the hill. (up-dated Jul 2015)

• Jikheti monastery (ჯიხეთის მონასტერი). aXIX century monastery, is located 14 km east fromLanchkhuti (updated Jul 2015)

• Our Savior’s and Saint George churches in Aketi.The village of Aketi is 12km south of Lanchkhuti.Saint George church was built in the Middle Agesand Our Savior’s church was built in 1899.

• Arches of Gurielis (principals who governed the re-gion during the feudal era), destroyed palace in vil-lage of Lesa, 7 km west from Lanchkhuti.

• Medieval fortress in village of Japana, 16 km eastof Lanchkhuti.

• Old churches in villages of Machkhvareti,Baglebi and Nigoiti

30.5 Do

• Lanchkhuti Theatre (ლანჩხუთის თეატრი).

• Despite Georgia’s failure to score a major successsince independence, football (soccer) remains themost popular sport in the country, and Lanchkhuti aswell. The town has its football club Guria, whichparticipated in the Soviet Super League in 1980sand was very popular, so football is the main enter-tainment for local people. Even public institutionsstop working during the match day.

• Attend traditional Leloburti (very similar to rugby)in Shukhuti on Easter Sunday. Leloburti is playedAlways on the Orthodox Easter Monday in vil-lages Kvemo Shukhuti and Zemo Shukhuti (upperand lower-Shukhuti), which are about 5 km eastof Lanchkhuti. Leloburti is a special rugby matchagainst each other: The ball is made in a special cer-emony. The villagers are fighting against each otherbitterly After kickoff, and bleeding wounds are notuncommon. After the game, the winning team may

drink wine from the ball. For visitors it is interestingto watch, to play along is not advised! Informationabout past games can be found on internet

• Climb a cave in the village of Oragve.• Fishing in the small rivers and lakes

30.6 Buy

There is Farmers Market (Bazari) and a lot of small storesin the center of the town.

• Bank of Georgia

• Liberty Bank

• ProCredit Bank

30.7 Eat

Eating in Lanchkhuti is very cheap. Prices per personmay be vary from 5 to 10 USD. Do not buy wine inrestaurants, its better to buy wine in a shop and take itin restaurant. The best choices are Corn bread, cheese,cucumber and tomato salad, eggplant with nuts, barbe-cue, kebab, Khachapuri, Beef with potatoes (Ojakhuri),fried chicken in garlic (Shkmeruli). Almost all cafes andrestaurants can be found in the town center.

30.8 Drink

If you get invited to someone’s house, your host mayalso offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously potentvodka distilled from grapes that is quite similar to Italiangrappa.

30.9 Sleep

There is only one hotel in Lanchkhuti in the center of thetown, but there is wide range of sleeping options outsidethe town, in resort Grigoleti.

30.10 TalkSee also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. The older generation speaks Russian flu-ently, and Armenian as well. The younger generation nowstudies English. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

30.15. GO NEXT 109

30.11 Work

Working time in Lanckkhuti starts at 09:00 or 10:00and end at 16:00–18:00. Locals like to take an hourlunch break and enjoy their food while socializing withtheir co-workers. Approaches to punctuality used to bevery relaxed. Summer (late July-August) and January aremonths when people take two weeks or a whole monthoff work to enjoy vacationing with family. A local wagein Lanckkhuti will typically be around 300–400 GEL amonth, with only a small section of public servants mak-ing in the range of 800–1000 GEL a month.

30.12 Connect

There are 3 GSM operators of mobile phone service:Magticom, Geocell and Beeline.

30.13 Stay safe

Lanchkhuti is very safe for travelers. the crime rate isamong the lowest in Europe. Most of the streets are illu-minated at night. Police cars patrol the streets in the townand can help with any problem. Call 112 in any case ofemergency (police, ambulance, fire). The Police Officecan be found in the center of the town.

30.14 Stay healthy

In the city center there are some pharmacies.

30.15 Go next

There are plenty of buses and minibuses to neighbor-ing villages (generally 0.5 GEL to 2 GEL). Buses andminibuses leave from bus station. The best destinationmay include village Aketi, Jikheti Monastery and JumatiMonastery. Popular destinations may include KolkhetiNational Park and Paliastomi Lake near Poti or Capitalof he region Ozurgeti.

30.15.1 Beach resorts (only in summer)

• Ureki

• Grigoleti

Chapter 31

Likhauri

Likhauri is a village in Guria.

31.1 Understand

Likhauri is just a sweet, picturesque village in the Guriaregion of Georgia. It is known for its medieval churchesin Likhauri and Achi.

31.2 Get in

31.2.1 By train

Nearest train Station is in Ozurgeti

31.2.2 By bus

You can catch a mashrutka from Ozurgeti.

31.2.3 By car

Likhauri is connected to Ozurgeti with well-developed lo-cal road. route from Ozurgeti to Likhauri

31.3 Get around

It’s a small village, so your feet will serve you just fine.

31.4 See

• Likhauri church (ლიხაურის ეკლესია). Likhaurihas a church built in the 15th century. Church is lo-cated in the center of the village. St. Mary’s Churchof Lichauri was built in the 12th century of carvedstone. It has a free-standing bell tower. (updatedAug 2015)

• Likhauri fortress (ლიხაურის ციხე). The fortressis situated west from the church, on the Hill. The

Likhauri church

fortress was built in the 12th century, allegedly byQueen Tamar, therefore it is also called Fortress ofTamar. (updated Aug 2015)

Achis eklesia

• Achi Church (აჭის ეკლესია). Achi Church is amedieval Georgian Orthodox Church. It was built inthe 13th or 14th century. The church is a single-navehall church and is built of hewn stone. To them run-ning around a high wall. The church and the wallshave been renovated several times. The church hastwo entrance doors on the southern and western wall.Above the doors there are the traditional Georgian

110

31.8. DRINK 111

ornaments. On the southern wall a Georgian inscrip-tion is mounted in the interior the walls are deco-rated with frescoes from the 13th century. (updatedAug 2015)

Ekvtime Takaishvili Museum

• Ekvtime Takaishvili Museum (ექვთიმეთაყაიშვილის მუზეუმი). Museum representsstylized wooden Gurian type house, which issurrounded by a stone fence. The museum hasfour exhibition halls. The museum houses EkvtimeTakaishvili (Georgian archaeologist and politician)photographs, books, personal items. (updated Aug2015)

31.5 Do• If you follow the main road, along the river, you will

soon find quite a picturesque scene of giant boulders,a small waterfall, and more. Local children and oth-ers go up there to swim in the summertime, and it’squite shaded and cool.

There are two places good to swim: Gogorikidze inLikhauri and Devis Kva in Achi

31.6 Buy

There is one small shop, which strangely enough has afair amount of chocolate, and a pharmacy if you happento need headache tablets after too many ringtones blastedin your ear. Visit Janverdi Tsetskhladze Farm in villageGogieti where you can buy homemade honey and enjoyremote village life.

31.7 Eat

Both restaurants in Likhauri area are known for troutsfrom local mountain rivers

• Niabauri (ნიაბაური). If you follow the main roadfor a while, you will soon see a yellow sign withGeorgian letters and a beer advertisement. Followthis road to a nice restaurant, where at least one ofthe people speaks decent English, and enjoy somemeat skewers, or salads if you're a vegetarian. (up-dated Aug 2015)

Village Achi

• Chkimarte (ჭყიმარტე). (updated Aug 2015)

31.8 Drink

The restaurant serves beer, or if you're lucky, the villagerswill treat you to some homebrew.

31.9 Go next

Keep walking to the next few villages, or head back toOzurgeti.

Chapter 32

Mtispiri

Mtispiri (მთისპირი) is a village in the Guria region, 20km southeast from region capital Ozurgeti. The villageis known for its medieval churches and ancient fortress,also for its clay mining.

Mtispiri village

32.1 Get in

32.1.1 By bus

Minibus from Ozurgeti and Batumi departs everyday.Minibus from Ozurgeti costs 2 GEL. from Chokhatauri,but especially from Ozurgeti. From there you can take ataxi or auto stop.

32.1.2 By car

Mtispiri an be reached from Ozurgeti trough lo-cal road Bakvhi-Smhvidobarui-Mtispiri or Dvabzu-Pampaleti-Mtispiri. Both roads are old and not paved.SUV will be good option for driving.

32.2 Get around

You can easily walk in Mtispiri.

32.3 See

Askana Fortress, depicted in an old photograph

• Askana fortress (ასკანის ციხე). With six-meterhigh stone walls built in the 4th century. It is locatedon the left side of river Bakhvistskali. On the way tothe fortress you will find two small lakes. (updatedJul 2015)

• Clay mining (ბენტონიტური თიხების საბადო).(updated Jul 2015)

• Maria Hill and church (მარიამას გორი). (up-dated Jul 2015)

• Intskirveli’s church (ინწკირველების ეკლესია).(updated Jul 2015)

• Vaniskedi Church (ვანისქედის ეკლესია). (up-dated Jul 2015)

112

32.8. GO NEXT 113

32.4 Do

Festival in Askana

• There is a path going trough woods from Vaniskedi(4 km south of Mtispiri) to Bakhmaro.

• There is a local festival every 30 August in villageAskana, 2 km east from Mtispiri

32.5 Buy

There is one small market in the village center. Youcan find another small markets in the centers of nearbyvillages Askana and Bakhvi .

32.6 Drink• Chkhaveri (ჩხავერი). try the most famous Gurian

Wine Chkhaveri (Rose wine). Guria seems to be nota Wine region such as Kakheti, but, truly, Guria hasvery big tradition on wine making and Chkhaveri isbest of them. 1 L 20 GEL. (updated Aug 2015)

32.7 TalkSee also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

32.8 Go next• Ozurgeti

• Khidistavi

• Bakhmaro

Chapter 33

Nabeglavi

Nabeglavi (ნაბეღლავი) is a village and balneologicalmountain resort Georgia, in the Guria region.

33.1 Understand

River Guzabeuli in village Nabeglavi

Nabeglavi is famous for its carbonated mineral water,which is very similar to other famous Georgian MineralWater “Borjomi”

33.2 Get in

33.2.1 By bus

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Chokhataurior minibus going to Bakhmaro from Ozurgeti duringsummer season.

33.2.2 By car

Nabeglavilies on the well developed regional road whichconnects Chokhatauri with mountain resort Bakhmaro.

33.3 Get around

Nabeglavi is easily covered on foot or bike.

33.4 See

Bugara Mamaladze statue

• Statue of Bughara Mamaladze in village Khevi.Bugara Mamaladze was local robber, but he wasvery popular among local people (seems like RobinHood).

• Old Fortress “Ghomis Tsikhe” in village Zoti

• Mosque in village Zoti

33.5 Buy• Trout farm (საკალმახე), village Chkhakoura, ☎

+995 593 355629. in the village Chkhakoura onthe provincial road to Bakhmaro, shortly before thefirst Serpentine, is a large trout farm. If you driveat the apex of the Serpentine a bad dirt road straightahead, you reach another trout. Trout to his car thisroad not to, the owner comes to telephone order evendown to the main road. Here he comes walking, heneeded about half an hour. The best way is call-ing in advance. The trout are sold alive, you must

114

33.9. GO NEXT 115

kill, clean and disembowel yourself. 10 lari per kilo-gram.. (updated Aug 2015)

33.6 Sleep

There is some options for sleep in Bakhmaro. There isone Hotel (USD 50 per night) and a lot of cottages forrent. Prices start from GEL 300 for non comfortable cot-tages (without water and toilette) to USD 1200 for cot-tages with all equipment and comfort in.

33.7 Drink

Chkhakaura.jpg

• Mineral water Nabeghlavi which is very popular inGeorgia is bottled here. there is a freely accessiblesource of water In the park in front of the factory.The Nabeghlavi is the great rival of Borjomi, it hasless iron and is therefore milder and more drinkable.Drinking water direct from the spring is free.

• Another Mineral Water source Sanislia can befound in village Zoti.

33.8 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

33.9 Go next

• Ozurgeti

• Chokhatauri

• Bakhmaro

• Khidistavi

Chapter 34

Ozurgeti

Ozurgeti (ოზურგეთი, from 1934 to 1989 Makharadzeმახარაძე) is the small town in Georgia, capital of Guriaregion. It is a good jumping off point for nearby beaches,mountain resorts, old monasteries and rural tourism.

34.1 Understand

Ozurgeti was founded in the Middle Ages, 16th Century.The city was the residence of the Prince of Guria andbecame a trading center in later centuries. Ozurgeti re-ceived its town charter in 1840, after becoming part ofRussian Empire. The town was a strategic location inthe Russo-Turkish War (1877–78). In the 19th centuryOzurgeti became the hometown of tea producing and cit-rus growing in Georgia. In 1905 Ozurgeti was center ofGeorgian Social-Democratic Movement and capital of socalled “Gurian Republic” which existed during RussianRevolution. From 1934 to 1989, the city was named af-ter the Georgian Communist Party leader of the 1920sand 1930s, Philip Makharadze. Today’s layout and im-age of the town was established during Soviet times. Thelargest employers in the city are government and finan-cial institutions, and nut cultivation is the main economicactivity.

34.2 Get in

34.2.1 By plane

The nearest major international airport is in Tbilisi(340km), while Batumi (60km) and Kutaisi (70km) In-ternational Airports are the nearest accessible airports.Trabzon airport (250km) in Turkey might be an option,also.

34.2.2 By train

Ozurgeti has a railway station, which Can Be Reachedfrom both Batumi and Tbilisi. Ozurgeti is end point of abranch line from Natanebi on the Black Sea coast.

Ozurgeti railway station

There is a daily train pair each to Tbilisi (night and daytrains) and Batumi (day train). The former holds theroad, among others in Samtredia, The second one alsoin Kobuleti. Ticket prices from Tbilisi to Ozurgeti varybetween GEL 15-30. Trains leave twice a day and takecirca 9 hour. Batumi-Ozurgeti train leaves once a day,only evenings and takes 2 hour. Tickets from both citiescan be bought at stations and online.The station a magnificent and newly renovated neo-

classical building, is located approximately 500 m northof the center at the end of the Ilia Chavchavadze Street.There is a ticket office and Mini Bus station over there.Taxis await incoming passengers. A taxi from station tocity costs 3 to 5 GEL, to villages 4 to 20 GEL.

34.2.3 By bus

There are daily coach arrivals and departures in severaldirections: Kutaisi, Samtredia, Kobuleti and Batumi, alsoTbilisi, as well as easy mini bus (marshrutka) access tonearest villages and sites of tourist interest in the area.The main bus station is situated south of the city centernext to the large roundabout.

116

34.4. SEE 117

34.2.4 By car

Ozurgeti lies on the well-developed regional road "შ 2”(Kobuleti - Chokhatauri - Sadzhavakho - Samtredia), "შ46” Ureki-Natanebi-Ozurgeti and "შ 84” Lanchkhuti -Lesa - Ozurgeti; about 7km east from the regional road'შ 47” Nasakirali - Schuchuti. Roads are paved with as-phalt, except "შ 84” which is paved with concrete. Roadsare beautiful, but winding, and are ideal for a scenic drive.

filling stations

• Wissol (ვისოლი), Takaishvili Str. petrol (updatedAug 2015)

• Gulf (გალფი). petrol (updated Aug 2015)

• Lukoil (ლუკოილი), Kostava Str. petrol (updatedAug 2015)

• Socar (სოკარი), Takaishvili Str. petrol (updatedAug 2015)

• Rompetrol (რომპეტროლი), Aghmashenebeli Str.petrol (updated Aug 2015)

• Prometegas (პრომეთეგაზი), Takaishvili Str. gas(updated Aug 2015)

• Prometegas (პრომეთეგაზი). gas (updated Aug2015)

34.3 Get around

A small town, Ozurgeti is easily covered on foot. Thetown has no public transport system. Buses and Minibuses (Marschrutkas) go only in the surrounding area.Cycling can be an option, also, but there are no bikerentals, though. Bikes are sold in “Univermagi” for 250-300 GEL (USD 100-125). Taxi’s are cheap and cost GEl3-5 (USD 1-2) within the town.Ozurgeti has following districts: the center, where gov-ernment, financial, shopping and service provider institu-tions are based, Seri south from the center, located onthe small hill, historical part of the town Ekadia, for-mer village, now part of the town, south of river Bzhuzhi;Anaseuli - Soviet-era settlement with former tea factoryand scientific institutions and sleeping districts: Lashe-Gakiruli in the eastern part of the town, Zvani in thewestern part andMoidanakhe on the northern hill, wherethe town’s major cemeteries are located.

34.4 See

The main sightseeing in the town is an archaeological site,remains of Baths, which were built and used by rulers

of Principality of Guria - Gurieli. Baths are located on

the central square of the town. Ruins are left open-air,so its free to visit. These baths must have been oldestbuilding in the town. The oldest survived building of thetown is Palace of Dimitri Gurieli, built in 1863, usedto be a residence of the noble family, which is now usedas a residence of the local Bishop of Georgian Ortho-dox Church. XIX century typical Gurian wooden houses,with balconies and tile roofs can be found scattered in thetown.The city center is dominated by a Dramatic Theater-the second largest theater building in Georgia, with statueof Alexander Tsutsunava, famous Georgian movie direc-tor, born in Ozurgeti. The city center extends along theChavchavadze street north to the quite remarkable trainstation. All around are typical magnificent Soviet build-ings of the 1930s to the 1960s, in the classical style, suchas Former movie theater - built in 1930s and renovated1980s, but nonfunctional yet and former hotel - con-structivist building from the 1970s. Slightly away fromthe town center is a industrial complex of a clay fac-tory with glorious Soviet residential and administrativebuildings and wall mosaics. Also worthy is a mural ata sports school near the train station. Another Sovietindustrial and administrative building can be found inAnaseuli, an outskirt in south-western part of the town.There are also two newly built, Postmodern architecturebuildings: Police Office (2009) and Public Service Hall(2012).

34.4.1 Museums and galleries

• Historical Museum Of Ozurgeti (ოზურგეთისისტორიული მუზეუმი), Chokhatauri Str, ☎ +995496 75827, e-mail: [email protected] everyday. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

Historical Museum of Ozurgeti has been founded in 1936y. nowadays more than 6000 exhibits are saved in thefunds of the museum, which chronology consists the pe-riod since IX millennium of BC until today. Numer-ous unique materials have been accumulated during 75years in the founds of Ozurgeti Historical Museum, at listthere are Neolithic stone weapons, produced 7000 yearsago, Best models of Kolkhian culture from Early, Middleand Late Bronze age, collections of Kolkhian axes; burialground stocks aged with Late Bronze- Early Iron pe-riod; Golden and silver things of Antique period: goldenbreastplate, the fragment of golden bracelet (both ofthem are beautified with Almandine crystal); silver dish,measuring-glass; The water pipes, heads of the columns,the thing for incense, glass of the window, the brick forbuilding; diversified numismatic collections: KolkhianTetri of VI-III centuries from BC, golden coin of Alexan-der Macedonian; the coins of georgian Kings; Silver, rareEuropean coins; well-known Rapier of Napoleon, manyhistorical photos, documentary materials.

118 CHAPTER 34. OZURGETI

• Ozurgeti fine art Gallery (ოზურგეთის სახვითიხელოვნების ცენტრი), #6 Shota Rustaveli Str, ☎+995 496 74542, e-mail: [email protected] 10-17. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

• Ekvtime Takaishvili Archaeological Museum-Reserve (ექვთიმე თაყაიშვილის სახელობისარქეოლოგიური მუზეუმ-ნაკრძალი), #89th April Str, ☎ +995 590880118, e-mail:[email protected]. Mo-Fr 10-17. free ofcharge. (updated Jul 2015)

Here are archaeological artifacts exhibited, as well as anexhibition on the life of Ektwmie Takaischwili can beseen. Museum itself is located in old Gurian type woodenhouse, with fireplace and balcony.

34.4.2 Parks and gardens

Platanus garden

Ozurgeti is known for its gardens, some of them dateback to XIX century. Scottish gardener Jacob Mar devel-oped town garden in early 1810s fot his client Principalof Guria Mamia III Gurieli. That garden now is dividedinto three parts: Platanus garden is in front of The-ater building and has access to free WI-Fi, platanus treesmake a "მ" (M in Georgian Alphabet) shape; so calledSamkuthkha (triangle garden) is on the right side of

the Theater building and has an open-air mini-footballground, there is, also, Statue of Alexander Tsutsunava,famous Georgian director, who was born in Ozurgeti andOzurgeti dramatic Theater is named after him; and for-mer “Beria Park”, which is located in front of DimitriGurieli’s palace. Slightly south of the park, a car-freearea with a Soviet-era mermaid sculpture and musicalfountain can be found.Other parks are:

• Park of Culture and Resort (კულტურისადა დასვენების პარკი), #2 Kostava Str, ☎ +995551106194, e-mail: [email protected]. 24/7.

Created in 1930, it covers about 3 hectares and islocated in front of town hall building, #2 KostavaStr. It is used as Children’s Amusement Park. Thereis free WI-Fi available free of charge. (updated Jul2015)

• Park of 9th April, located in the center of town,below of Museum and Public Service Hall

• Ekadia Forest-Park, located in the south of town,in Ekadia district. Forest-park was developed in1960s, but now its not used. Good views of the towncan be seen from the park

34.4.3 Around the town

Shemoqmedi church

• Shemokmedi Monastery (შემოქმედისმონასტერი). This 12th-to-16th-century monasteryis located on the hill in the eponymous village ofShemokmedi, about 7 km southeast of Ozurgeti.The monastery complex consists of two churchbuildings and a bell tower from the 16th century.The main church, a three-aisled basilica withoutcupola, was built in the 12th century. The walls arebuilt of hewn stone, the floor is covered with mar-ble. The second, smaller church called “zarzma”was built in the 16th century by the prince of GuriaVakhtang I. Gurieli as home to an icon of theTransfiguration of the Lord. In the Middle Ages,the monastery was one of the richest monasteries inGeorgia. In the monastery there were several relics,such as very valuable icons, stored. Great views ofGuria’s villages can be seen from the hill. free ofcharge. (updated Jul 2015)

• Jumati Monastery (ჯუმათის მონასტერი). This16th-to-18th-century monastery is located on thehill in the village of Jumati, 14 km north of Ozur-geti. The monastery consists of a basilica of theArchangels Michael and Gabriel, a bell tower, walls

34.5. DO 119

Jumati monastery, 1877-1878

and other monastic buildings. The facility was builtin the early Middle Ages, while the frescoes datefrom the 16th to 18th centuries. The bell tower witha square base was built in 1904 and is partially de-stroyed today. Jumati Monastery was an importantreligious and cultural center of Guria. Here valuableicons, relics and documents, some of which also hadsecular significance, were kept. In the 20th centurythe monastery was robbed several times. Fragmentsof several icons from Jumati are now in the Her-mitage at St. Petersburg, the Louvre in Paris andthe Metropolitan Museum in New York. Beautifulviews of Guria and Samegrelo lowlands and BlackSea can be seen from the hill. (updated Jul 2015)

• Likhauri fortress and Likhauri church church(ლიხაურის ციხე და ეკლესია). These are in thevillage of Likhauri, 5 km south offrom Ozurgeti.The church is in the center of the village, while thefortress is to the west, on the hill. St. Mary’s Churchof Lichauri was built in the 12th century of carvedstone. It has a free-standing bell tower. The fortresswas built in the 12th century, allegedly by QueenTamar, so it is also called the Fortress of Tamar.(updated Jul 2015)

• Church of Achi (აჭის ეკლესია). Early medievalperiod. In the same village there is a one-nave hallchurch from the 13th-14th century. It has beautifuland well-preserved frescoes. (updated Jul 2015)

• Askana fortress (ასკანის ციხე). With six-meter-high stone walls built in the 4th century. It is locatedin the village of Mtispiri, 16 km southeast of Ozur-geti (updated Jul 2015)

• Vashnari (ვაშნარი). Historic city consists of re-mains of a basilica, a monastery and civic buildingsdating back to the 4th century and is located near thevillage of Gurianta, 6km west of Ozurgeti. (updatedJul 2015)

• Jikheti monastery (ჯიხეთის მონასტერი), a XIXcentury monastery, is located 40 km northeast fromOzurgeti

• Erketi monastery (ერკეთის მონასტერი) wasbuilt in the 9th century and is located in village Er-keti, 32km east from Ozurgeti.

• Udabno Monastery (უდაბნოს მონასტერი) con-sist from two churches, one of them is caved.Monastery is located in village Shua Amaghleba, 35km northeast from Ozurgeti

• Our Saviors and Saint George churches in Aketi.Village aketi is located 20km northeast from Ozur-geti. Saint George church was built in developedmiddle ages and Our Saviors church was built in1899

• Eristavi Palace and garden in Goraberezhouli,25km northeast from Ozurgeti, is only remainedsecular sightseeing in Guria. The territory consistsa garden, stone fence, and a palace. It is dated fromXVII century.

• Chekhedana (ჩეხედანა), vill. Tskhrapona, Kob-uleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). Chekhedanachurch was built in 1609 by Mamia II Gurieli. Thebuilding was completely destroyed, then rebuilt inthe 1990s. Free of charge. (updated Dec 2015)

• Mamukas Castle (მამუკას ციხე), vill. Alam-bari, Kobuleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). 18th-century castle, which was owned by Mamuka Tavd-giridze, was destroyed in 1959 because of earth-quake. Only its south wall is still standing. Free ofcharge. (updated Dec 2015)

• Khino (ხინოწმინდა), vill. Khino, Kobuleti Mu-nicipality (from Kobuleti). Khino Cathedral was oneamong three Eparchial Centers of Guria. Nowadaysthe village lies in Kintrishi Reserve. Free of charge.(updated Dec 2015)

• Konchkati Church and Castle (კონჭკათისეკლესია და კატისციხე). (updated Dec 2015)

34.5 Do

34.5.1 Activities

• Enjoy the views fromEkadia Church. 24/7. Thisnewly-built (as of 2015) Orthodox church is locatedon the hill in southern part of the town, where aMedieval Orthodox church used to stand. Excellentviews of the town can be seen from there. free ofcharge.

• Cycle around the town there are no bike rentals.Bikes are sold in “Univermagi” for 250-300 GEL(USD 100-125).

120 CHAPTER 34. OZURGETI

view of Ozurgeti

• Swim in the rivers. If you are brave enough, swim-ming in the riverBzhuzhi in the southern part of thetown during hot summer days makes you feel local.

• Fish in the small rivers such as Bzhizhi,Ochkhamura, Achi and Natanebi.

34.5.2 Festivals and performances

• Ozurgeti Dramatic Theatre (ოზურგეთისდრამატული თეატრი), #1 Chavchavadze Str, ☎+995 496273373. Nowadays the theater is onlyone working institution. The theatre hosts not onlyplays, but some concerts and performances as well.Information about upcoming events is availablein front of the building on the information board.GEL 3-5.

• Alegro a city festival dates back from XIX century.Allegro takes place in the center of the town in earlyautumn, September or October

• Giorgi Salukvadze Ethnographic Festival, inwhich the neighboring countries (Turkey, Ukraine,Turkmenistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan) participate, Isbeing held in the summertime

Sports Palace

34.5.3 Sports

Despite Georgia’s failure to score a major success sinceindependence, football (soccer) remain the most popu-lar sport in the country, and Ozurgeti as well. The townhas two major sports clubs - Mertskhali (the swallow),which has the home ground Megobroba (friendship)and Rugby club Piralebi (robbers), which has the homeground Zvani field. Sports Season in Georgia lasts fromSeptember to May.

• Sports Palace (სპორტის სასახლე). 10 AM-10PM. Championships in some sports like Volley-ball, Handball, indoor Hokey are being held here.Posters are available in the building facade. free ofcharge. (updated Jul 2015)

• Chess club (საჭადრაკო კლუბი). 10 AM-2PM.Chess and Checkers can be played here for free.Sometimes championships in chess are being heldtoo. free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

Chess, Checkers, backgammon, also domino and cardgames are very common for Ozurgtei. You can find peo-ple sitting in yards and playing games. Feel free to jointhem, just avoid gambling.

34.6 Buy

Ozurgeti market

There are two supermarkets in Ozurgeti: “Chemi Mar-keti” (MyMarket) in the large shopping center on GuriaStreet and Moderni on Ekvtime Takaishvili Street. Lo-cally made bread and pastry, named “Vasadze’s Bread”can be found on Gabriel Episkoposi Str., below thechurch. Tee and Coffee House is near it.

• “Bazari” (ბაზარი), Guria Str. everyday, 8-16. Anopen-air market - among other things there are soldFruits, vegetables, clothing, meat, cheese. free ofcharge. (updated Jul 2015)

34.7. EAT 121

• “Univermag” (უნივერმაღი), G, Chanturia Str..everyday 9-18. Old Soviet department store whereis today Chinese rubbish mostly sold. (updated Jul2015)

• Biblusi (ბიბლუსი), 9th April Park, ☎ +995593100391, e-mail: [email protected]. every-day 9-18. a small book shop (updated Jul 2015)

• Nikora (ნიკორა), #2 Gabriel Episkoposi Str, ☎+995 595305933. A reasonably well-stocked super-market chain (updated Jul 2015)

34.6.1 ATMs

• Bank of Georgia

• Bank of Georgia

• TBC Bank

• Liberty Bank

• VTB Bank

• ProCredit Bank

34.7 Eat

Restaurant “Gur.ge”

Eating in Ozurgeti is very cheap. Prices per person maybe vary from 5 to 10 USD. Do not buy wine in restau-rants, its better to buy wine in a shop and take it in restau-rant. The best choices are Corn bread, cheese, cucumberand tomato salad, eggplant with nuts, barbecue, kebab,Khachapuri, Beef with potatoes (Ojakhuri), fried chickenin garlic (Shkmeruli).

34.7.1 Cafes

• “Khachapuris Sakhli” (Khachapuri House)(ხაჭაპურის სახლი), #2 Chavchavadze Str. Cafewhere Georgian national khachapuri and pizzas aresold. (updated Jul 2015)

• Lelango (ლელანგო), Ioane Petritsi Str. Cafe isowned by Georgian Orthodox church. It has its ownbakery and take-away service, inside and outsideseats. (updated Jul 2015)

• Tiramisu (ტირამისუ), #2 Chavchavadze Str. Cafeand cake shop. (updated Jul 2015)

• Rendez Vous (რანდე ვუ), Ioane Petritsi Str. Cafeand cake shop, French cuisine. (updated Jul 2015)

• Rvas + 1 (რვას+1), #3a GabrielEpiskoposi Str, ☎ +995557602183, e-mail:[email protected]. 10AM-6 PM. Servesonly non-alcoholic beverages, pies and pancakes,has internet and library, is adapted for disabledpeople.

34.7.2 Restaurants

• Natakhtari (ნატახტარი), Chavchavadze Str, ☎790324355. Georgian cuisine, beer on tap. (up-dated Jul 2015)

• Kalakuri (ქალაქური), #2 Gabriel Episkoposi Str.everyday 10 AM-10 PM. An Asiatic restaurant, withlive music at evenings. (updated Jul 2015)

• Tonus (ტონუსი), #25 Akaki Tsereteli Str, ☎ +995496 276035, +995 496 273833, fax: +995 496276035, e-mail: [email protected]. every-day 9-23. Slightly away from the center, restaurantTonusi has its own brewery. The building is a jewelof Soviet industrial architecture. Beer on tap is soldoutside, also. (updated Jul 2015)

• Gurge (გურჯი), #25 Gabriel Episkoposi Str, ☎+995 591239320. Restaurants interior is coveredwith old items, wooden furniture and photographsfrom the 19th century depicting life in Ozurgeti.(updated Jul 2015)

• Pirosmani (ფიროსმანი), Guramishvili Str.Restaurant with Georgian cuisine. (updated Jul2015)

• Piralebi (ფირალები), Apolon Tsuladze Str. Tra-ditional Gurian style restaurant, Georgian cuisine.(updated Jul 2015)

122 CHAPTER 34. OZURGETI

• Gurulebis Ezo (გურულების ეზო), #8 Guria Str,☎ +995 555327724. 10AM-00AM. You will findhere a pleasant and warm atmosphere and deliciousGeorgian cuisine, specifically Gurian dishes. Therestaurant offers delivery service and its own park-ing place. $. (updated Sep 2015)

34.8 Drink

If you get invited in someones house, your host mayalso offer you Georgian “chacha,” an outrageously potentvodka distilled from grapes.

• Wine House (ღვინის სახლი), Bolkvadze Str. Awell-stocked wine shop is located opposite the trainstation. (updated Jul 2015)

• TRAP lounge (ტრეპ ლაუნჯი), #4Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995 551703001, e-mail:[email protected]. 11 Am- 01 PM. Break-fast, lunch, dinner, coffee and drinks. Paymentswith Visa, American Express, MasterCard andcash. Take away service. (updated Jul 2015)

• Background Bar (ბექგრაუნდ ბარი), #4Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995599719991, e-mail:[email protected]. 10AM-01AM. BarRestaurant in the middle of Ozurgeti. Here youcan explore nice music, staff and comfortableatmosphere. High speed WiFi is included (updatedSep 2015)

34.9 Sleep

There is only one hotel in Ozurgeti and some Guest-houses. Guesthouses are good opten for budget travelers.They are clean, safe and cheap and give opportunity, tomeet local people. A wide range of accommodation areavailable in the beach resort towns Ureki and Kobuleti,where, however, many businesses are closed during win-ter.

• S A M (სემი), #25 Guramishvili Str, ☎ +995496261126, e-mail: [email protected]. Newlyopened, as of 2015, this is the only hotel in Ozur-geti. 60-70 GEL per night. (updated Jul 2015)

• Guesthouse, Dimitri Bakradze Str, ☎ +995593154345. GEL 30-40 per night, breakfast in-cluded. (updated Jul 2015)

• Guesthouse, #55a David Aghmashenebeli Str, ☎+995 496275411. GEL 30-40 per night, breakfastincluded. (updated Jul 2015)

• Guesthouse, ☎ +995 496273499. GEL 30-40 pernight, breakfast included. (updated Jul 2015)

• Guesthouse, Dimitri Eristavi Str, ☎ +995496275411. GEL 30-40 per night, breakfast in-cluded. (updated Jul 2015)

• Guesthouse, Gagma Dvabzu, ☎ +995 599787516.Very nice Guesthouse with rural activities is locatedoutside of town, in village Dvabzu. GEL 30-40 pernight, breakfast included. (updated Jul 2015)

34.10 Talk

See also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated tounderstand them. The older generation speaks Russianfluently, and Armenian as well. The younger generationnow studies English. Almost every school in Ozurgetihas a native English-speaking teacher. There are someUS and European volunteers who speak English as well.When in need for help, look for younger people; they aremore likely to know some English.

34.11 Learn

There are no universities in the town. Only one techni-cal school operates. Wide range of driving schools is inOzurgeti. It seems easyer to get driver’s license in Ozur-geti then in other towns in Georgia.

34.12 Work

Working time in Ozurgeti starts at 09:00 or 10:00 andend at 16:00–18:00. Locals like to take an hour lunchbreak and enjoy their food while socializing with theirco-workers. Approaches to punctuality used to be veryrelaxed. Summer (late July-August) and January aremonths when people take two weeks or a whole month offwork to enjoy vacationing with family. A local wage inOzurgeti will typically be around 300–400 GEL a month,with only a small section of public servants making in therange of 800–1000 GEL a month.Foreigners working in Ozurgeti are employed as volun-teers. There are volunteers from the US Peace Corpsand EVS (European Volunteering Service) volunteersfrom Poland, Germany, and Lithuania. These volunteersmostly work for the NGOs Young Pedagogues Union,Guria Youth Resource Center and Student Youth Coun-cil.

34.16. COPE 123

34.13 Connect

Free wireless internet is avilable in the Platanus gardenand Culture and Resort Park, free internet is avialablein Public Service Hall, also.

• USAID Center for Civic Engagement(დემოკრატიული ჩართულობის ცენტრი), #14Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995 598538571, e-mail:[email protected]. Everyday, exceptsunday, 10 Am - 7 PM. Free Internet, desktopcomputers, wireless Internet, skype and headsets.Free of charge. (updated Jul 2015)

• Internet Cafe, #4 Rustaveli Str. Windows XP,slow connection, skype, webcams and headsets GEL1 per hour. (updated Jul 2015)

• Internet Cafe, #2 Chavchavadze Str. WindowsXP, skype, webcams and headsets GEL 1 per hour.(updated Jul 2015)

• Georgian Post Service Center (საქართველოსფოსტა), #2 Gogebashvili Str. The Postal Code ofOzurgeti is 3500. GEL 1 per hour. (updated Jul2015)

There are 3 GSM operators of mobile phone service:Magticom, Geocell and Beeline. Their offices are neareach other on the Chavchavadze Str.

34.14 Stay safe

Ozurgeti is very safe for travelers. the crime rate is amongthe lowest in Europe. Most of the streets are illuminatedat night. Police cars patrol the streets in the town and canhelp with any problem. Call 112 in any case of emergency(police, ambulance, fire).

• Police (პოლიცია), #3 Chavchavadze Str, ☎ +995496275342. (updated Jul 2015)

34.15 Stay healthy

Tap water is good for drinking in Ozurgeti. Ozurgeti hasone of the best tap water among Georgia’s cities.You will find many gym in the Sports Palace, on thesecond floor. Monthly ticket costs GEl 50 and covers 12visit to the gym. You can work out in Park of Culture andResort, where open-air training equipment is available.Modernized Hospital hospital is located on the “Seri”hill and is seen from the town center.There are four pharmacies open 24/7, in front of“Bazari”, GPC, PSP, Impex and Aversi.

34.16 Cope

There is no Tourist Office or travel agency in Ozurgeti.Nearest tourist offices are available in Ureki and Kobuleti,but only during summer.

• Public Service Hall (იუსტიციის სახლი), #9Petritsi Str. Mo-Fr 09 AM - 18 PM. (updated Jul2015)

• Town Hall (ქალაქის მერია), #1 Kostava Str, ☎+995 496274740. Mo-Fr 09 AM - 18 PM. (updatedJul 2015)

34.17 Go next

34.17.1 In Guria

There are plenty of buses and minibuses to neighbor-ing villages (generally 0.5 GEL to 2 GEL). Buses andminibuses leave from central bus station in the south partof the town, or from the station on Aghmashenebeli Str,near big roundabout. The best destination may include

villages and rural tourism

• Shemokmedi

• Likhauri

• Aketi

• Mtispiri

Mountain resorts

• Bakhmaro (only in summer)

• Gomismta (only in summer)

• Nasakirali

• Nabeghlavi

beach resorts (only in summer)

• Ureki

• Grigoleti

• Shekvetili

34.17.2 Other regions

Outside of the Guria region, popular destinations may in-clude Kobuleti and Batumi. There are plenty minibuses,they leave in every hour from 8 AM to 5 PM to Batumi.Travel to Batumi costs 5 GEL, to Kobuleti - 3 GEL.

Chapter 35

Sarpi

Berlin architects, J. Mayer H., have gone wild with the 2011Georgian customs terminal.

Sarpi is a Georgian village on the Black sea inSouthwestern Georgia right on the border with Turkey.

35.1 Understand

Nothing much, apart from the border crossing betweenTurkey and Georgia. Coming from Turkey one re-entersEurope, as evidenced by the Orthodox church just behindthe border juxtaposing the mosque on the Turkish side.The border is open 24/7.

35.2 Get in

35.2.1 Border crossing from Turkey

Coming from Turkey exchange some money at the bankinside the Georgian customs terminal, before the immi-gration check. Note that they charge a commission ofabout 5% higher than what is obtainable at street stallsin Batumi, whereas the exchange booths by the bus stopoutside charge a 10-12% higher commission.There’s no point in buying anything in the duty-free shopwithin the Turkish building as Georgian street prices arelower. Similarly, don't go for the (non-free) toilets on the

Turkish side, since the toilets on the Georgian side arefree of charge.

35.3 Get around

35.4 See

35.5 Do

It’s odd for a major international border crossing to havea nice beach, but Sarpi’s pebble beach and clear water arenice indeed. Despite the Turkish trucks lined up to crossover to Hopa, the setting is picturesque, with the beachand border crossing occupying a narrow strip of land be-fore the topography of the village shoots directly upwardsacross jungle-covered green cliffs. Whether a swim hereis your first or your last experience during your travels inGeorgia, it’s likely to be a memorable one. Swimmingacross the border would certainly not be appreciated bythe border guards, though…

35.6 Buy

35.7 Eat

The main eatery right by the border post and the beach isheralded by a lot of yellow umbrellas over plastic tables.It’s a modest eatery and probably not the best introductionto Georgian cuisine, but some quick roadside food aftera dip in the crystal waters of the Black Sea is likely to beenjoyable regardless of the quality.

35.8 Drink

With the oldest evidence of wine making having been dis-covered just up the road, it’s hardly surprising that winetakes precedence over beer, Chacha, or any other form of

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Sarpi beach

alcohol. Be prepared to drink at least one glass since a re-fusal might offend or brand you as a Muslim undesirable.Georgians don’t usually sip - they slurp - although they arealways patient enough to wait until each traditional toasthas been orated.

35.9 Sleep

Options are scarce if you are looking for accommodationwithin Sarpi itself, although if you make friends with alocal you are likely to receive sincere offers of generoushospitality at their own house. There are good options justup the coast though — ask around after you've already leftthe customs office behind.

35.10 Go next• Turkey: buses to Trabzon, taking 3-4h, stop at all

places en route and run almost every hour and costaround TRY10 (Oct 2013).

The next stop to the south is the small town of Hopa (pop-ulation 15,000) in Turkey. A ride on a dolmuş (sharedtaxi) should cost certainly no more than 5-10 Turkish lira.The Turkish taxi drivers won't speak Russian, if that’show you have been getting around, so brush up on eitheryour Georgian or Turkish numbers and get ready for a lotof bargaining in Turkey!

• Batumi since the regular city bus (line 101) is GEL1to Batumi. Buy a ticket from the driver and punchit in the yellow box. (As of 2014, the 101 does notseem to go until the border.) Bus 16 links the bor-der to Batumi’s city centre (GEL1 too). To go toBatumi's train station, transfer to line 101.

If you are coming from Turkey, say your farewells to thedolmuş culture and say hello to the wonderful world ofpost-Soviet Lada taxis. A ride up to Batumi, where youcan connect with the national transport system, should notcost any more than GEL15-20.

• Gonio fortress is on the road to Batumi.

Chapter 36

Shemokmedi

Shemokmedi (შემოქმედი) is a village in the Guria re-gion, 6 km southeast from region capital Ozurgeti. Thevillage is known for its old monastery.

View from Shemokmedi monastery

36.1 Get in

36.1.1 By train

Nearest train Station is in Ozurgeti

36.1.2 By bus

There are several departures from Ozurgeti.

36.1.3 By car

Shemokmedi is connected to Ozurgeti with well-developed regional road. Route from Ozurgeti toShemokmedi

36.2 Get around

You can easily walk or cycle in Shemokmedi.

36.3 See

Shemokmedi monastery

• Shemokmedi Cathedral (შემოქმედისსაკათედრო ტაძარი). This 12th-to-16th-centurymonastery is located on the hill in the eponymousvillage of Shemoqmedi, about 7 km southeast ofOzurgeti. The monastery complex consists of twochurch buildings and a bell tower from the 16thcentury. The main church, a three-aisled basilicawithout cupola, was built in the 12th century. Thewalls are built of hewn stone, the floor is coveredwith marble. The second, smaller church called“zarzma” was built in the 16th century by theprince of Guria Vakhtang I. Gurieli as home toan icon of the Transfiguration of the Lord. In theMiddle Ages, the monastery was one of the richestmonasteries in Georgia. In the monastery therewere several relics, such as very valuable icons,stored. Great views of Guria’s villages can be seenfrom the hill. (updated Jul 2015)

• Gorisferdi church (გორისფერდის ეკლესია). Anewly built orthodox church instead of medievalchurch (updated Jul 2015)

• Stone Wine-press (ქვის საწნახელი). A massive,stone-carved winepress is located near Gonebiskari,in “Meskhiseul estate”. Length of winepress is 6

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Gorisferdi

meters, width - 120 cm, depth - 90 cm. (updatedJul 2015)

• Philipp Makharadze Former museum (ფილიპემახარაძის ყოფილი სახლ-მუზეუმი). Now the mu-seum of Bolshevik Philipp Makharadze is closed,but partly demolished XIX century house and an arcfrom 1950s can be seen (updated Jul 2015)

• Bzhuzhi HPP (ბჟუჟჰესი). Soviet time HPP, builtin 1950s is worth of visit (updated Aug 2015)

• Chala-Sakdari (ჭალა-საყდარი). Ruins of me-dieval belltower (updated Aug 2015)

36.4 Do

Gomismta

• Visit Gomismta, mountain resort above ofShemokmedi, 2000 meters high from sea level

• Chakukha (ჩაქუხა). is very popular place toswim, sunbath and enjoy life during hot summer.(updated Aug 2015)

• Satavani (სათავანი). go further away fromBzhuzhi HPP and about 10 km away you will finda waterfall (updated Aug 2015)

36.5 Buy

You can by very good homemade Vodka from local invillage Gomi, 2 km away from Shemokmedi.

36.6 TalkSee also: Georgian phrasebook

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated to un-derstand them. When in need for help, look for youngerpeople; they are more likely to know some English.

36.7 Go next• Ozurgeti

• Dvabzu

• Likhauri

Chapter 37

Ureki

Ureki (ურეკი) is a coastal town in Georgia, in Guria re-gion.

37.1 Understand

Ureki is a popular beach town on the Black Sea coast.Ureki is famous for its black, slightly magnetic sand,which allegedly has healing properties, while in contrast,most beach resorts of Georgia are made of crushed stoneor gravel.North from Ureki is located Grigoleti, and south fromit is located Shekvetili . Both of them are coastal sandyresorts like Ureki, but they are more quiet and relaxing,while in Ureki is more traffic, crowd and nightlife. Sumerseason (July-September) is the best time to visit.The settlement is located a few kilometers from the sea.On the beach itself there is the coastal settlement that iscalled “Magnetiti” (მაგნეტიtი) due to magnetic sand. Afew kilometers north of Ureki is the village Supsa with themajor oil terminal at the end point of the pipeline fromBaku.

37.2 Get in

37.2.1 By train

Ureki has a newly refurbished train station betweenBatumi and Tbilisi railroad. Ureki is also connected to re-gions capital Ozurgeti by the railroad. Tickets from bothcities can be bought at stations and online. The train sta-tion is about 1.5 km from the beach.

37.2.2 By bus

You can catch a minibus (marshutka) from Ozurgeti orKobuleti. Buses going on the Tbilisi-Batumi route willstop at Ureki also. In summer Marschrutkas leave fromthe main square in Magnetiti to several destinations. Oth-erwise, you can stop passing minibuses on the highway.

Ureki Railway Station

37.2.3 By car

Ureki lies on the highway, which connects Batumi withPoti and Kutaisi. Ureki is approximately 10 kilometersnorth of Kobuleti and 15 km south of Poti on the highway.The turnoff to Magnetiti is well signposted at the station.Grigoleti is connected to Samtredia with another high-way. Ureki is connected to Ozurgeti with well-developedregional road.

37.3 Get around

Ureki is easily covered on foot or bike. You will needgood bike or taxi to go to Grigoleti or Shekvetili.

37.4 See

• Kolkheti national Park and Paliastomi Lake, northfrom Ureki and Grigoleti

• Ruins of Jikhanjiri fortress in the village withsame name

• Vashnari (ვაშნარი). Historic city consists of re-mains of a basilica, a monastery and civic buildingsdating back to the 4th century and is located near

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37.6. BUY 129

Paliastomi forest

the village of Gurianta, 21km southeast from Urekitrain station. (updated Jul 2015)

• Chekhedana (ჩეხედანა), vill. Tskhrapona, Kob-uleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). Chekhedanachurch was built in 1609 by Mamia II Gurieli. Thebuilding was completely destroyed, then rebuilt inthe 1990s. Free of charge. (updated Dec 2015)

• Mamukas Castle (მამუკას ციხე), vill. Alam-bari, Kobuleti Municipality (from Kobuleti). 18th-century castle, which was owned by Mamuka Tavd-giridze, was destroyed in 1959 because of earth-quake. Only its south wall is still standing. Free ofcharge. (updated Dec 2015)

• Khino (ხინოწმინდა), vill. Khino, Kobuleti Mu-nicipality (from Kobuleti). Khino Cathedral was oneamong three Eparchial Centers of Guria. Nowadaysthe village lies in Kintrishi Reserve. Free of charge.(updated Dec 2015)

• Konchkati Church and Castle (კონჭკათისეკლესია და კატისციხე). (updated Dec 2015)

37.5 Do• Swimming. On the beach you can swim well in the

sea. However, the water is shallow and only fallsgently, so you have to have a few hundred yards towade out until you can no longer stand. Further-more, it is advisable to lie on the beach and com-pletely dig into the magnetic healing sand (maybe ithelps, but at least it does not hurt) or build sandcas-tles. You can borrow umbrellas and chairs. in addi-tion you can do some other water activities such asjet skiing, kite surfing and water slides. The swim-ming season begins in May and lasts until the end ofSeptember. In high season (July / August) the placeis crowded.

nearby

• Climb a caves in the villages Chochkhati, Oragve,Khoreti, Kokati, Moedani. You have to reach vil-lage Chochkhati at first.

• Visit Guria Park, so called “Tsitsinatela” — largeAmusement Center

• Fishing in the small rivers

37.6 Buy

in Ureki there are wide range of stores where you canstock up on drinks and snacks. During summer seasonyou will find Well stocked “Nikora” market chain. Dur-ing summer you can get the usual beach equipment fromChina: slippers, towels, air mattresses, inflatable rubberanimals, and even paddle boats are available. On thebeach itself Boiled maize, cold water, coffee from thethermos and ice cream from homemade cooling wearingand cigarettes are sold.

37.7 Eat

There are a lot of restaurants in Ureki, near the beach andnear the train Station. In the resort along the main street,there are some restaurants and cafes of different priceranges and fast food establishments. It should be notedthat most catering establishments are only open duringthe bathing season.Do not pass fresh fish, which is served in restaurants inTskatsminda: right by the road, near the Ureki train sta-tion. Among the restaurants in the Ureki town center.Prices in Ureki are higher then in other villages or townsof Guria and may vary from 15 to 25 GEL per person.

• Palermo (პალერმო). (updated Aug 2015)

37.8 Drink

inside Ureki you will find a lot of restaurants and cafes.Try Georgian wine, beer and vodka.

37.9 Sleep

In Ureki you will find a wide range of sleeping op-tions, from Hotels, to small apartments. In Grigoleti andShekvetili is more common, to take whole cottage forsome period.

37.10 TalkSee also: Georgian phrasebook

130 CHAPTER 37. UREKI

Gurians speak much more quickly than average Geor-gians from other regions, so it is more complicated tounderstand them. Service staff in this area know Rus-sian and a bit of Turkish. English is common in this area,too.

37.11 Stay safe

You should not leave your valuables unattended on thebeach - this invitation is readily accepted by thieves.There are lifeguards at the beach.

37.12 Cope• Tourist Office, near the train station, e-mail:

[email protected]. Tuesday to Sunday 10-19 clock.(updated Aug 2015)

37.13 Go next• Ozurgeti

• Lanchkhuti

• Kobuleti

• Batumi

Chapter 38

Northwestern Georgia

If you are looking for the region of the US state,see Northwest Georgia.

Northwestern Georgia is a region of Georgia.

38.1 Regions

• Samegrelo — home of the Mingrelians and birth-place of independent Georgia’s turbulent and enig-matic first president, Zviad Gamsakhurdia

• Svaneti — Georgia’s most mysterious mountain re-gion is like a fairy tale come to life

38.2 Cities

• Kala

• Lentekhi

• Melle

• Mestia — the “capital” of Svaneti and a UNESCOWorld Heritage site

• Poti — a fairly uninteresting port city, albeit onewith interesting ancient history; headquarters of theGeorgian Navy. Also serves as an entrance point toKolheti National Park.

• Soli

• Ushguli — perhaps the most picturesque Svan vil-lage, at the bottom of Georgia’s highest mountain,Ushba

• Zugdidi — the capital of Samegrelo

38.3 Other destinations

38.4 Understand

Northwestern Georgia is a very diverse region, which,due to its many languages, cultures, and even govern-ments, can feel like several different countries. TheSvans of Svaneti and the Mingrelians of Samegrelo areChristian, Georgian sub-ethnic groups who have culturesand languages distinct from, but closely related to Geor-gian. The Abkhaz, however, are a completely unrelatedSouth Caucasian people, who for much of their historywere predominantly Muslim, until the Russian Empire’s“Muhajarism” practice in the 19th century of mass de-portation of Muslim Caucasian peoples, which cleansedthe region of nearly all non-Orthodox Abkhaz.The climate of Northwestern Georgia ranges from sub-tropical to high alpine, and is one of Georgia’s greenest,lushest, and wettest regions.Since Georgian independence in 1991, NorthwesternGeorgia has been a hotbed of complicated political vi-olence and conflict. The first president of Georgia, ZviadGamsakhurdia, was an ethnic Mingrelian with ties toSamegrelo. His presidency was intensely controversialwithin and without Georgia and sparked a civil war, whichquickly resulted in a murky coup d'etat in late 1991. Con-flict between pro-Gamsakhurdia and anti-Gamsakhurdiaforces continued as a new separatist conflict exploded inAbkhazia in 1992. The Abkhaz military, fighting along-side paramilitaries from the North Caucasus (and possi-bly with help from the Russian government) defeated theGeorgian military in September 1993, allowing the Abk-haz government to establish de facto independence. Inan even more strange and convoluted twist, Gamsakhur-dia then returned to Georgia from Chechnya in late 1993,set up a government-in-exile in Zugdidi, and began a fullscale civil war with the central government, relying onthe support of Samegrelo and Abkhazia. Gamsakhurdia’swar was very successful and his forces routed the Geor-gian military and threatened the capital. But the resultinginstability threatened Russian interests and the Russiangovernment sent its military to the aid of the central gov-ernment, resulting in a quick defeat for Gamsakhurdia’sforces, the firm establishment of Georgia’s Shevardnadzegovernment, and the mysterious death of Gamsakhurdiahimself. But Northwestern Georgia never really accepted

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132 CHAPTER 38. NORTHWESTERN GEORGIA

the Shevardnadze victory, leaving the Samegrelo regionin particular a turbulent, volatile center of unrest. More-over, the wide-scale ethnic cleansing of Abkhazia’s ethnicGeorgians led to continued low-intensity warfare betweenMingrelian paramilitaries and the Abkhaz military.The most powerful force shaping the region today is theprotracted separatist conflict between Abkhazia and theGeorgian central government. The current situation ismore or less a stalemate. Georgia’s president has vowedto reintegrate Abkhazia into Georgia, but only by peace-ful means. The Abkhaz government demands nothingless than full de jure independence from Georgia. Andthe ever important Russian government, which still haspeace-keeping troops in the region, gives tacit support toits Abkhaz client government while trying to avoid re-newed regional conflict.

38.5 Talk

Although the Georgian languages of Mingrelian inSamegrelo and Svan in Svaneti are widespread, Georgianis the main language in the region, but much of the oldergeneration speak Russian as a second or a third languageand the younger generation is increasingly speaking En-glish due to hostility towards Russia, and also becauseEnglish is taught in schools since independence and hasreplaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people,as they are more likely to know some English. SpeakingRussian is recommended in areas where non-Georgianminorities live.

38.6 Get in

Marshrutkas head to Zugdidi and on to Abkhazia fromthe bus stations in Batumi and Kutaisi, and Tbilisi. Potiis the easiest destination to get to, and is widely served bypublic transport. Marshrutkas also make the long, steepclimb from Kutaisi and Tbilisi to the Svan capital, Mestia.

38.7 Get around

38.8 See

38.8.1 Itineraries

38.9 Do

• Trekking in Upper Svaneti

38.10 Eat

The food differs from region to region within North-western Georgia, but its Mingrelian cuisine is perhaps itsmost famous, which is notably spicier than most Georgianfood, and is just generally delicious.

38.11 Drink

38.12 Stay safe

Northwestern Georgia is, generally speaking, not a safetravel destination. The Abkhazia conflict has destabilizedparts of the region. Samegrelo has become notably lessvolatile since the Rose Revolution, as the Mingrelians arefar less hostile to the new president than the last; more-over, the new government has taken steps to disarm thesomewhat brigandish Mingrelian guerrilla groups, whowere made up mostly of refugees from Abkhazia and hadbeen fighting against the Abkhaz government.Svaneti is a different security story altogether. WhileSvaneti has been largely untouched by the simmering eth-nic conflict to its west, it remains a rather dangerous des-tination simply because it always has been. The Svansare renowned for being an aggressive and insular groupwho, while loyal to the Georgian central government, canbe tricky folks to deal with for outsiders. On the otherhand, if accepted as a guest of a Svan, the Svans are alsorenowned for their legendary, limitless hospitality. Donot let security concerns stop you from visiting Svaneti—it is far too wonderful a travel destination to miss. Butdo seriously consider traveling there with a guide or localSvan.

38.13 Go next• From Svaneti, there is a lonely and poor quality

mountain road leading east to the beautiful and safermountain region of Racha

Chapter 39

Samegrelo

Samegrelo is a region in Northwestern Georgia.

39.1 Regions

39.2 Cities

• Poti

• Zugdidi

39.3 Other destinations

39.4 Understand

39.5 Talk

39.6 Get in

39.7 Get around

39.7.1 To open Samegrel

Day trip “To open Samegrelo” (Nokalakevi arkheoplis(fortress Tsikhegodgi) - Chkondidi (Residence of thehead of Orthodox church, unique monastery,center ofroyal land X cen. (near Martvili) - Gachedili (it’s inMartvili, place of waterfalls, where you could swim, anddinosaurs steps)- Dadiani summer palace in Salkhino(near Martvili). Including picnic and museum tickets.This tour price for 2-3 people is 200 GEL. If there aremore people price is 50 GEL per person.

39.7.2 Wild nature

Day trip “Wild nature” (Skuri caves and mineral watersprings - Mukhuri caves in the middle of the wild Geor-gian woods with moss rocks and river (swimming place)

- Shurubumu caves - Lugela waterfalls). Including pic-nic and museum tickets. This tour price for 2-3 people is200 GEL. If there are more people price is 50 GEL perperson.

39.7.3 Chkhorotskhu region

Chakvindji fortress - Lebarde resort with mineral waters(near Chkhorotskhu). This tour price for 2-3 people is150 GEL. Including picnic If there are more people priceis 40 GEL per person.

39.7.4 Kvatsantsara (Eng. Dancing rock)

Intsira ravine - Kvatsantsalia (huge shaking rock), 14 kmof hiking through the forest and valleys. This tour priceis around 250 GEL. Including picnic and guide.

39.7.5 Anaklia-Ganmukhuri

Black sea cost villages nearby Zugdidi (34 km). Duringlast few years these villages became fancy touristic re-sorts. There were built some high class hotels, pubs andcasino. It’s a good place to enjoy Black sea. Anaklia placeis continuing as Ganmukhuri place, which is located onthe Abkhazian border.

39.7.6 Kheta fortress - Monastery ofKhobi - Nodjikhevi

Kheta fortress - Monastery of Khobi - Nodjikhevi (arche-ological place with old fortress and traditional Georgianvillage atmosphere) near Khamiskuri. This tour price for2-3 people is 100 GEL. If there are more people price is30 GEL per person. Including picnic.

39.7.7 Tobavarchkhili (Eng. Silver lake)

Tobavarchkhili lake is located 2500m above sea level.It is located on south slopes of Egrisi ridge. Lake To-bavarchkhili as well as other nearby lakes is unknown for

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134 CHAPTER 39. SAMEGRELO

most people, but who has ever seen it he only knows howbeautiful it is. Some few people have been there due toa hard way. You can visit this wonderful place only fromthe end of July till the September, cause in any other timepouring rains and thick fogs make this just impossible.

39.7.8 Enguri hydroelectric plant

The Inguri hydroelectric power station (HES) is a cascadeof hydroelectric facilities including, in addition to the dam- diversion installation of the Inguri HES proper. Thedam located on the Georgian side in Upper Svaneti. Itis beautiful place with wide panorama of mountains andblue lake.

39.7.9 Rukhi fortress - Lia fortress - “DidaKirsa” archeological place

Rukhi fortress - Lia fortress - “Dida Kirsa” archeologicalplace with nice site seeing panorama - Enguri HES (oneof the biggest hydroelectric station in the world, and thebiggest ark of the HES, near by waterfalls and huge waterreservoir. This tour price for 2-3 people is 150 GEL. Ifthere are more people price is 40 GEL per person. In-cluding picnic.

39.7.10 Traditional village life - Tsaishi

Tsaishi (hot mineral sierra springs, where you could takea bath or swim. Museum of Iona Meunargia, Geor-gian poet and well known public person, Old TsaishiChurch, picnic on the mountain Urta with amazing viewto the Great Caucasus chain) - Djegeta mountain with oldchurch and impressive nature. This tour price for 2-3people is 150 GEL. If there are more people price is 40GEL per person. Including picnic. Another possibilityhere - Tsaishi (hot mineral sierra springs, where you takea bath or swim. Museum of Iona Meunargia, Georgianpoet and well known public person, Old Tsaishi Church,picnic on the mountain Urta with amazing view to theGreat Caucasus chain) - Papantskhvili (lake in mountainswhere according the legend local priest house with hisfamily drowned. Old Soviet villa of politicians). Thistour price for 2-3 people is 150 GEL. If there are morepeople price is 40 GEL per person. Including picnic.

39.7.11 Discover of Mountain Urta

Mountain Urta with more than 200 caves and waterfalls,mountainous rivers. This tour price is around 250 GEL.Including picnic and professional guide. Another possi-bility here- Urta mountain - Pokori river with waterfallswhere you could swim. This tour price for 2-3 people is110 GEL. If there are more people price is 30 GEL perperson. Including picnic.

39.7.12 Get to know Zugdidi

Zugdidi (Museum Dadiani, Botanical garden, boulevard,bazaar) for free.All these tours are organized by “Zugdidi Hostel” team,for more details you could contact them via email: [email protected] or by phone +995 591654036.

39.8 See

39.8.1 Itineraries

39.9 Do

39.10 Eat

39.11 Drink

39.12 Stay safe

39.13 Go next

Chapter 40

Poti

Poti is a port city in Samegrelo. The main reason to visitPoti is nearby Kolheti National Park with its wetlands andbird life.

40.1 Get in

40.1.1 By plane

The airport in Poti has been closed since the collapseof the Soviet Union; however the government is plan-ning to resume service by 2012. Currently Batumi In-ternational Airport is the closest airport, with flights fromBaku, Istanbul, Kiev, Moscow and Tel Aviv amongst oth-ers. However, the number one gateway to Georgia is stillvia Tbilisi, not too far away.

40.1.2 By train

Train services are quite good: Georgian Railways pro-vides two daily trains from the capital, Tbilisi, taking 5½hours.

40.1.3 By bus

Buses are plentiful from nearby Batumi; the journey timeis just about one hour.

40.1.4 By car

European road E70, which starts in Spain, has its end-point here. From Tbilisi, take the M27 road westwardsand then turn off to A305 just outside the city of Senaki.A305 continues further to Batumi, so travel from there isstraightforward.

40.1.5 By boat

Poti is a port city, meaning that there are several fer-ries arriving here from across the Black Sea. UKRFerryoffers a service from Varna via Ilyichevsk just outsideOdessa. Departures are once or twice a week, and prices

range between €140 and €320 depending on class. Theservice from Burgas via Novorossiysk with Intershippingis currently suspended.There are also twice weekly ferries from Sochi to Batumi.A single journey costs 4,000 RUB.

40.2 Get around

40.3 See

• Palm Boulevard

• Chapel

• Poti Free Industrial Zone

• Temple of Saint Nickolaus

40.3.1 Further afield

• Kolheti National Park (S 4 km. There aremarshrutkas running from the city to the NationalPark’s visitor center). Excellent spot for bird watch-ing. It includes east coast line of Black Sea andLake Paliastomi basin. Visitors center can help or-ganize boat tours on Lake Paliastomi and river Pi-chori gorge.

40.4 Do

40.5 Buy

40.6 Eat

40.7 Drink

40.8 Sleep

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136 CHAPTER 40. POTI

40.9 Connect

40.10 Go next

Chapter 41

Zugdidi

Zugdidi (Georgian: ზუგდიდი) is a city in the Samegreloregion of Georgia.

41.1 Understand

While Zugdidi is not a very popular city with tourists foritself, many pass through it on their way up to Mestia inSvaneti. It does have a few things to see, though, and islocated near a national park.

41.2 Get in

Trains run to Tbilisi and all stops on the way. Night trainsare also available, and are the most popular way to getfrom Tbilisi to Zugdidi, since the marshrutkas to Mestiaare coordinated with them (see Go next section). Arrivalin Zugdidi is at 6:25 (as of 2014). Marshrutkas and busesare also available to most major cities in Georgia.

41.3 Get around

41.4 See

• Dadiani Museum (500m beyond the north end ofZviad Gamsakhurdia). Every day except Monday,10:00–17:00. The Dadiani family’s palace 2 GEL.

41.5 Do

41.6 Buy

There is a 24/7 small supermarket just at the crossroadwith the road to Mestia.

41.7 Eat

41.8 Sleep

There are a few hotels and one hostel in this town.

• Zugdidi Hostel (10-15 min walk from city cen-tre, bus/train station), ☎ +995 591654036, e-mail:[email protected]. This is a place wherepeople get together, party and have a good time,storytelling and Georgian wine tasting. Soft beds,a vineyard, cozy old Asian atmosphere and funnystaff; tips on travelling, tours of the region and mapsare also available. Hostel: 15-25 GEL, bed in dorm:20 GEL, bed in single/double room: 25 GEL.

41.9 Connect

It can be hard to find Wi-Fi access in town, except in afew cafés.

41.10 Go next• Mestia. Marshrutki to Mestia wait in front of the

train station. The price is currently 20 Lari (March2015). Note that these marshrutki will only goif there are enough passengers. Therefore expectsome hours of waiting in the worst case. Duration:4 hours. An alternative is a shared minivan (alsocalled marshrutka by the locals). They start at a fixedtime in the Gulua street at the crossing with the DutuMegreli street. (Go from the train station to the mainroad (Rustaveli street), turn left and follow it towardsthe city, just before the bridge turn left and go in theGulua street about 200 meters, there should be a signon the right side at a kiosk.)

• Kutaisi: at least one marshrutka per day.

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Chapter 42

Svaneti

Beautiful Svaneti in the Greater Caucasus

Svaneti is a high mountain region in Northwestern Geor-gia, home of the fierce and chivalric Svans. An extraor-dinary and surreal land of towers, snow, craggy peaks,wine, and dancing; where gold was fleeced, where timehas not merely stopped, but rather simply never existed.The entire region is a UNESCO world heritage site.

42.1 Regions

• Lower Svaneti

• Upper Svaneti

42.2 Cities

• Mestia — the Svan capital

• Mazeri — a stunningly beautiful mountain vil-lage. The starting point for Svaneti Mount Ushbatrekking.

• Kala

• Lentekhi

• Melle

• Soli

The towers of Mestia

Ushguli, at the base of Mount Shkhara

• Ushguli — perhaps the most picturesque Svan vil-lage, at the bottom of Georgia’s highest mountain,Shkhara

42.3 Other destinations

42.4 Understand

42.5 Talk

Knowledge of Georgian is widespread, but the main lan-guage spoken here is another offering from the same fam-

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42.8. SEE 139

ily, the unwritten Svan language. Russian speakers canprobably get by in most villages, where at least one per-son around should be conversational in the language.English is spoken by a few young people and a few guest-house owners speak basic English. Basic tourism vocab-ulary is widely understood in Mestia, the regional capital.

42.6 Get in

42.6.1 By plane

As of August 2013, there are no flights to Mestia.

42.6.2 By car

The main road leading into the region comes from Kutaisithrough Zugdidi. You can catch a marshrutka going herefrom Tbilisi, which will take a full 12 hours to reachMestia. Due to the construction of a new road betweenZugdidi and Mestia, the largest town in the region, trans-port times have massively decreased.

42.6.3 By train

Night trains (8 hrs) between Zugdidi and Tbilisi are co-ordinated with early morning (7-8 am) marshrutka de-partures (15 GEL) from Zugdidi to Mestia, which takea bit over three hours. Booking in advance for the trainrecommended.

42.7 Get around

There is some very basic and inconvenient marshrutkaservice from town to town, but it’s generally easier to hirea taxi to get from point A to B.Hiking from town to town is also very much possible, andconsiderably more exciting, There is a flagged path fromMestia to Ushguli passing through several villages, thetourist information in Mestia can give additional infor-mation as well as some very detailed hiking maps.

42.8 See

In addition to the breathtaking ancient villages of Svanetifilled with imposing stone watchtowers, there are somespectacular mountain vistas of Europe's highest moun-tains. Look especially for Mount Ushba and MountShkhara.

42.8.1 Itineraries

4 Day Svaneti Trek (Mestia to Ushguli)

There is a red and white flagged trail from Mestia toUshguli. The tourist office and several souvenir shops inMestia offer maps of the route, but these are not alwaysvery clear. Better maps may be available in good travelbookshops abroad. Route can also be walked in oppositedirection, beginning in Ushguli. Try to start hiking early,especially in summer, since it gets very hot around 11amand some parts of the route offer little shade. Bringinga tent gives you much more flexibility, but guesthousesare available in each of the villages along the route. Onenight plus dinner and breakfast costs around 40GEL perperson; they can also give you some food for lunch.Day 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi 7.5 hours, partially along theroad. The route is well marked going out of Mestia.When the airport is on your left, a sign on a rock willtell you to take a path uphill. The marks then lead to astream, where you will have to cross a fence that is alsomarked. The route goes uphill and then descends into avalley, following a sledge road. You pass two small vil-lages and will then follow the river to Zhabeshi, wherethere is a bridge leading into the village.Day 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi 8 hours, greatest vertical dis-tance along the route. There are spectacular views fromridge down into both valleys. Follow the stream that runsthrough Zhabeshi uphill, take the path right just beforethe end of the village. Keep following the path past farms.You need to cross the hill that is on your left, but the pathhere is very poorly marked. There is a ridge leading uphillwhich is not too steep and can be followed all the way up-hill. When you reach the top, you should see a road thatwas still being built in August 2014. Go left on this roaduntil it takes several hairpin turns steeply uphill, wherethere is a path to the right of the road. This leads youstraight to Adishi through some beautiful meadows. Thehill after Zabeshi is the easiest section to get lost, so youmay wish to consider hiring a guide.Day 3: Adishi to Iprali 8 hours. The first part followsthe Adishi river, which you have to cross at some points.The water comes straight from the glacier so is ice-cold,but the water level differs along the river and also changesfrom day to day. You may want to rent a horse in Adishi tocross (50GEL), or if you have good hiking sandals and arein a group you could cross on foot. Otherwise, the pathon this day is easy to follow: after the river you zigzagup for a while, through rhododendron bushes. Amazingviews of the Adishi and Khalde glaciers at the top. Thepath then descends down into the valley, and will lead youto Iprali where there are several guesthouses.Day 4: Iprali to Ushguli 4 hours along the jeep trackthat all transport from Mestia to Ushguli follows, alonga river. It is possible to arrange a jeep or mashrutka backto Mestia from Ushguli. Costs vary between GEL 150-200, so if you can find a large group of people to fit into aminibus, the cost per person may be affordable. There

140 CHAPTER 42. SVANETI

are no regular mashrutkas from Ushguli to Mestia, al-though you may be able to get a ride from one that istaking people on a day tour from Mestia (these cost 30GEL round-trip).It is possible to continue trekking into Lower Svanetifrom Ushguli to Chvelpi, but it becomes a lot harder asthe paths are unmarked and in poor condition, and it isinadvisable to attempt this in poor weather conditions.

Svaneti trekking routes from Mazeri village

Several most exciting Svaneti trekking routes begins inMazeri village in Becho community.Among them:

• Mount Ushba trekking route

• Mazeri(Becho) - Guli pass - Koruldi lakes - Mestiatrek

• Mazeri(Becho) - Baki pass - Etseri trek

42.9 Do

A traditional Svan dance, in Tbilisi

The culture of Svaneti is intriguing, offering some ofGeorgia’s most solemn and mysterious dances, and themost complex polyphonic singing in the Caucasus—a tra-dition dating back over two millennia. There are abso-lutely no regular performances of any kind, and there areno performance venues besides the open air under theGreater Caucasus, or perhaps in someone’s modest home.You are more likely to experience Svan performances inTbilisi, but a really great guide may set something up withthe help of local friends.The obvious thing to do, in addition to sightseeing, istrekking and mountain climbing in the Greater Cauca-sus. The Shkhara and Ushba climbs are both techni-cally challenging, and have very dangerous weather. Onlyexperienced mountaineers should attempt the climbs.Mountain inclined dilettantes should instead consider aguided climb of Mount Kazbeg, in Georgia’s Kartli re-gion. There are several flagged trails, especially aroundMestia, the tourist information in Mestia can give youadditional information. The thing to do is basically tojust wander out of your guest house, pick a direction thatlooks promising, and get trekking!

The religious feast of Kvirikoba (28 July, in Kala) is thebest time to visit. Since a lot of people are in the area, youcan feel pretty safe in traveling here independently (al-though it may be difficult to find accommodations). Andfood at feasts in this part of the world is good!

42.10 Eat

The peak of Mount Shkhara

• Kubdari are a local delicacy from this region.These are khachapuri made with spiced mince meat.

42.11 Drink

The local wines are actually made of grapes from theRacha region, but any place is a good place to drink them!The best local wines are red, Barakoni and Khvanchkara.The latter was allegedly Stalin’s favorite.

42.12 Sleep

There are several homestay and guesthouse options in andaround Mestia and Ushguli. The Tourist information inMestia has a list of families in other villages (especiallybetween Mestia and Ushguli) which offer a homestay -speaking Georgian or Russian might be an advantage, butis not necessary. Georgian - or Russian speaking peoplewon't have any problem to find a place to sleep by askingpeople in the villages for an opportunity. Most homestaysask 30 Lari (2008, about 25 US Dollars) for one nightwith dinner and breakfast - it may be negotiable. Thereare guesthouses in Mazeri, Mestia, Zhabeshi, Adishi,Iprali and Ushguli, open during the summer season Juneuntil September, catering to eco tourists and hikers.

• Village Adishi Guesthouse (Asking anyone inAdishi for Elizabeth Kaldani will get you there), ☎+995 595 13 51 87. Family run guesthouse run by

42.14. GO NEXT 141

fluent English and Russian speaking woman. Fan-tastic meals. Possibility to arrange horse rental forriver crossing. GEL 20 for room, GEL 40-50 forroom and board (2 meals).

42.13 Stay safe

Mount Ushba

Never truly subdued by any foolhardy invader, even theSoviets failed to subdue the fierce Svan mountain tribeswho inhabit these high mountain fortress-villages. Geor-gians themselves claim to be a little afraid of the nativeshere. The security situation improved somewhat afterSaakashvili came to power. Travelling to Svaneti is not abig safety risk anymore and is possible for backpackers.However, common security precautions should be taken.

42.14 Go next

There are two mountain roads exiting the Svaneti region,one of which is serviced by daily Marshrutkas to Zugdidifor GEL 20. The second road runs from Ushguli di-rectly to Kutaisi but is in very bad shape and requiresyou arrange a private vehicle. Daily flights are availablefrom Mestia to Tbilisi for GEL 75, weather permitting.For the more adventurous, however, there is a very poorquality mountain road leading east to Oni in the beau-tiful region of Racha. If you are a hardy trekker, andknow what you are doing, you could also head into upperRacha by foot, over mountains. There are routes headingNorth into Russia's North Caucasus and into Abkhazia,but this should not be attempted. Both borders are for-mally closed (although enforcement is impossible), andif caught by the Georgians or the Russians, you will findyourself in trouble and alone in a strange and often cruelland.

Chapter 43

Mazeri

Mazeri is a mountain village in Upper Svaneti, Georgia.

43.1 Understand

Mazeri is the most famous village in Becho Commu-nity, Upper Svaneti.It is situated about 20 km from Mestia in an amazingvalley of Dolra river, 1600 metres above sea, and sur-rounded by wide green meadows and snow-capped moun-tain peaks. Mazeri now is the base for several mostbeautiful Svaneti trekking routes.Once upon a time this land was a possession of the princesDadeshkeliani, there was a 10-storey tower that the own-ers blew up in 1921. The ruins can still be found near thevillage.Tourism in Svaneti probably began to develop fromthis village. Here, thru Becho pass, many tourists andclimbers arrived, as this pass is the most convenient forthe transition from Russia to Svaneti. Besides, a lot ofclimbers who come to conquer Ushba stayed in Becho.

43.2 Get in

Currently there is no public transport going directly toMazeri. The closest public transport path is Zugdidi -Mestia main road. If you go by Marshrutka from Zugdidiyou should get off about 16 km before Mestia, near turnto Becho (Mazeri). From this point to Mazeri is about 7km. You can walk this distance in 1-1,5 hours, or some-body from your guesthouse can pick up you here. Also itis always possible to hitchhike.

43.3 See

Besides the unforgettable landscapes and beautiful val-ley Shikhra, Becho is famous for its numerous mineralsprings. There are several large waterfalls around the vil-lage. Also you can see a ruins of the Princes Dadeshke-liani castle, old church and ancient Svaneti Tower.

43.4 Do• Trekking

• Biking

• Horseriding

• Skiing

43.5 Svaneti trekking routes fromMazeri (Mount Ushba)

43.5.1 Mazeri - Mount Ushba glaciertrekking

• Dolra river, waterfalls, views of peaks of Ushba andMount Mazeri, glacier. Horseback ride is possiblefor a fist part of the route.

• altitude start/end: 1600/2700m; duration: 8-9 hoursby foot; length: 8,5km

43.5.2 Mazeri - Baki pass - Etseri trekking

• possible by foot or horseback

• length: 15 km; duration: 6-8 hours; altitudestart/end: 1700/1450m; highest point: 2460m

43.5.3 Mazeri - Guli pass - Koruldi lakes -Mestia trekking

• possible by foot or horseback

• length: 16 km; duration: 8 hours; altitude start/end:1600/1420m; highest point: 2960m

43.6 Eat

Staying in one of Mazeri village guesthouses is a goodopportunity to try traditional Svanetian food, cooked withfresh natural local eco products.

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43.7 Drink

Clean and natural mineral water from a healing mineralwater springs.

43.8 Sleep

You can stay at the several homestays and family guesthouses offering accommodation and full board mealsfor reasonable money. There is one hotel with highquality service but the price considerably higher than inguesthouses. A good option for backpack travellers isPeak Mazeri guesthouse, located in a renovated old Svanhouse, standing on a great green glade. They have theirown horses and mineral water spring near the house. Alsoit is possible to put up a tent in the guesthouse campingzone.

• Grand Hotel Ushba, Tvebishi, Mestias rajoni,Svaneti, Georgia.

• Peak Mazeri Guest House (A family mini ho-tel in Svaneti Mestia region - Peak Mazeri GuestHouse), Mestia district, Mazeri, Becho commu-nity, Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti, Georgia, e-mail:[email protected]. Amazing locationjust at the foot of Mount Ushba. Nice mountainview rooms and tasty food. Horseback riding. Freepickup by our car. You can start Ushba trekkinghere.

43.9 Connect

43.10 Go next

Chapter 44

Mestia

Mestia is a city in Upper Svaneti, Georgia.

44.1 Understand

Mestia

Mestia is the regional capital of Svaneti. It is also themain centre of tourism for the region. It is a relativelysmall town of around 2.600 inhabitants, but it is the mainservice centre for the Svaneti region and as such hasmany of the characteristics of larger cities. It is a verytourist-friendly town, in part due to several major con-struction activities including a new road (a twisty but well-maintained mountain road), a renovated town centre witha number of new buildings, and a new airport. There hasalso been a lot of investment in other infrastructure, suchas a new district court, giving Mestia the feeling of a cityrather than the rural towns it is. This has made travelingto Mestia much easier, but the main street has lost part ofits former character. This said, exploring the streets justbehind the main street immediately brings you to very ru-ral areas with cows, pigs and chickens everywhere.The town is very easy to navigate. It is made up of threevillages following the Mulkhra River, with a single mainstreet lying through the entire town. Most guest houses,hotels and restaurants are along this main street.

44.1.1 Tourist Centre

• Tourist InformationCentre, Seti Square (the mainsquare in Mestia). Part of the country-wide networkof tourist information centres. Provides information

on activities in Mestia including high-quality hikingmaps.

• Mountain Tourist Centre of Svaneti, PereulokStalina No. 7 (200 m from the main square in Mes-tia).

44.2 Get in

44.2.1 By plane

Queen Tamar Airport. Mestia’s airport opened in2010.

• In the summertime a plane flown by the Georgianmilitary will give you a ride between Kutaisi andMestia. The plane only operates on “perfect” days.This is a very fun experience! The cost is free to thelocals, or ~$15 USD for foreigners. It will take offfrom a grassy field in Mestia, and land in Kutaisi inless than an hour! This will reduce travel time to thecapital by about 6-8 hours! The plane flies on Satur-days and leaves Kutaisi at 9:00. (This is a 2010 infoand possibly no longer valid).

• During 2014 and continuing to 2015 there are heav-ily subsidized flights from Tbilisi to Mestia for 65GEL one way from Natakhtari Airfield. Flightsfrom Natakhtari to Mestia and back are operated byair company Serviceair, by air plane LET 410-UVP.Flights are on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.From Natakhtari to Mestia at 11:00 and from Mestiato Natakhtari at 13:00. The registration time is onehour before the flight. Flight duration is one hour.Price includes free transfer from Tbilisi (metro sta-tion Rustaveli, near fountain at 9:20 pickup) andback — from Natakhtari to Tbilisi also. Reserva-tions are available at Vanilla Sky agency, ☎ +99532 242 7427, +995 599 65 90 99 (Mob), e-mail:[email protected]. . Its office moved from the oldcity centre to further toward the suburbs at 5 Vazha-Pshavela Avenue, Tbilisi, close to Metro MedicalUniversity station.

144

44.3. GET AROUND 145

Important: There is a high demand fortickets so reserve tickets long in advance.For example, by the end of July 2015 theonly tickets from Mestia to Tbilisi werefor the end of August. To make a reser-vation from Mestia to Tbilisi, call theMestia airport: 598510895. If no tick-ets are available, ask to be on the waitinglist. From June 2015 on flight times were10:00 and 12:00 respectively.

Note: Flights are dependent on weather conditions in themountains between Mestia and Tbilisi. As the weatherchanges quickly, it is difficult to plan a flight to or fromMestia with absolute certainty and it might be a good ideato have a plan B in case the flights are cancelled.

44.2.2 By helicopter

There is also an option to fly to Mestia from Tbilisi by he-licopter. The duration of the flight is 1.5 hours. There area few companies organizing these flights. Unfortunately,these organizations suspended flights for the fall of 2014due to various reasons, however, there are chances theflights will be started again in early 2015.

44.2.3 By train

From Tbilisi, take the 21:10 night train reaching Zugdidiat 6:25. From outside Zugdidi station, take a marshrutkato Mestia. Marshrutka ticket price: 15 Lari (Georgian)/ 20 Lari (foreigners). Duration: about 4 hours + an un-predictable waiting time in Zugdidi (up to 7 or 8 hours)if you don't arrive with the overnight train.Trains can be full (especially private cabins), so book sev-eral days in advance.

44.2.4 By bus

Bus station.

• From Tbilisi marshrutki (mini buses) go every dayfrom the “Vagzali” bus station. Number of seats16, ticket price 30 Lari per person. Departuretime: 5:00. Duration 8-10 hours (depending on theweather conditions).

• From Zugdidi marshrutki to Mestia wait in frontof the train station. The price is currently 20 Lari(March 2015). Note that these marshrutki will onlygo if there are enough passengers. Therefore expectsome hours of waiting in the worst case. Duration:4 hours. An alternative is a shared minivan (alsocalled marshrutka by the locals). They start at a fixedtime in the Gulua street at the crossing with the Dutu

Megreli street. (Go from the train station to the mainroad (Rustaveli street), turn left and follow it towardsthe city, just before the bridge turn left and go in theGulua street about 200 meters, there should be a signon the right side at a kiosk.)

From Mestia, one marshrutka leaves towards Zugdidi ev-eryday at 5:00. Sometimes (but only sometimes!), othermarshrutkas leave at 6:00, 7:00M, and even 8:00 duringthe high season (but probably not later than that). Later,you need to use a private taxi. Travel time is 2 - 2.5 hours.There are also marshrutkas from Mestia to Kutaisi (notregular) and Tbilisi (daily).As of August 2015, it appears that the only public op-tion to leave Mestia to Zugdidi or Tbilisi is at 08:00 a.m.daily (according to several guesthouses and the tourismoffice). Seats can be reserved by your guesthouse, priceto Zugdidi is 20 Lari. The bus stops at the train station inZugdidi, connections to Poti, Batumi and other cities areavailable.

44.2.5 By car

A new highway from Zugdidi to Mestia has been openedand the trip has become relatively safe and comfortable bypublic or private transport. The view on the way is amaz-ing. The usual driving time is about 2 hours, althoughit can be longer in winter following snow falls, or whenthe road is covered with ice. Whatever the season, it isnot advised to drive yourself unless you are used to suchmountain roads. Drive with high attention if you are notan experienced driver.Mestia – Tbilisi can be driven in about 6.5 hrs.

44.3 Get around

The city is small enough to be covered by foot.

44.4 See

• Svaneti Historical-Ethnographic Museum. As-tonishingly extensive museum which has one of theoldest New Testament manuscripts in Georgian ondisplay. Recently renovated, the museum is nowequipped with modern display cases and has exten-sive written descriptions of exhibits in English. Ad-mission is 5 Lari.

• House and Museum of the world-famous alpin-ist Mikhail Khergiani. Part of the tour includesgoing inside the Svan tower which Khergiani usedas his training gym. Admission free.

146 CHAPTER 44. MESTIA

• Ski lift (8km of Mestia. It’s possible to walk therefollowing uphill asphalt road, altitude difference is400m. Or get a taxi for 30 GEL, including 2 hrs ofwaiting time and a ride back). Year round, 10:30–18:00. It leads to the top of a mountain and offerssplendid view. There is a restaurant on top. 5 GELreturn.

• Stone defensive towers. A typical fortified dwellingconsisted of a tower, an adjacent house and someother household structures encircled by a defensivewall.

• Churches of 10th–14th centuries, includingMazhari, Trongsa and some others.

• Mineral springs.

44.5 Do

44.5.1 Hiking routes

• Mountain Ushba is a main attraction, in a goodweather conditions you can see it above. You canalso get to its base (3.5-4 hrs one way).

• Walk to theMountain Ushba glacier, takes around6 hours, starting from a beautiful mountain villageMazeri.

• 4 Days Mestia to Ushguli Trek

• Trip to the cross and Koruldi lakes: The path is veryeasy to find and follow. From the main square go500m east and follow the road which is forking up-hill (just before the bank). Trip time is approx. 2hours one-way, be concentrated on the way back toavoid detours. You can also continue to the Koruldilakes (2 hours more with some very steep hills toclimb). No map needed for this route.

• Walk to Chalati Glacier: walk to the airport and fol-low the road. After approx. 2h30min you reach abridge. There’s no border post anymore (as men-tioned in the LP guide book), but a cafe offers re-freshments. From the bridge it’s a good 1 hour moreto the glacier. No entrance fee, no map needed forthis route.

44.5.2 Skiing

There are two ski resorts close to Mestia.

Tetnuldi

(This information applies to the winter season 15/16 andwill change next season.) At this time, Tetnuldi resortis still under construction. Only one of three projectedlifts is in operation and there is only one very easy slopefinished. Usage of the lift is free. At the lift, there is noski rental, so if you need ski, you need to rent in Mestia.There is a government bus from Mestia central square at11 am, which is also free, it returns when the lift closes,around 5 pm.

Hatsvali

This ski resort features a single lift and also a single slope(there is a short beginners lift as well). The slope is moredifficult than Tetnuldi’s. The ski pass is 5 GEL for localsand between 20 and 25 GEL for foreigners, so you shouldask a local, e.g. your taxi driver, to purchase the pass foryou. Ski rental is available at the lift, though the skis arequite old and better ones can be had in Mestia. To takea taxi to Hatsvali is 40 GEL at most for a return journey.The driver will take you there, go home and arrive againat a prearranged time. The cheaper way is to walk in theright direction and hitchhike, especially if you are withoutskis.

44.6 Buy

There are Liberty bank branch, two ATMs and one cur-rency exchange office (with just marginally worse ratesthan elsewhere in Georgia).

• Beautiful works of Folk art can be bought at theMountain Tourist Centre.

• There is a small market for fruit, vegetables, drinksand necessity products, as well as a number of shops.

44.7 Eat

Mestia has several restaurants and cafés in town.

44.8 Drink

Of course, as anywhere in Georgia, marvelous Georgianwine and chacha!

44.9 Sleep• Hostel Seti, Seti squ. 7 (Right in the center, next to

the tourist information center and a restaurant). It’s

44.10. CONNECT 147

newly built. Have air conditioning in the hall andheater in the room. The room is large. €10 for adorm bed.

• Hotel “Mestia”, Zurab Devdariani, 577721211,590721211.

• Muradi Chartolani’s Guesthouse, Ushba St.2, ☎ +995 55 56 19 74, e-mail: [email protected]. Guesthouse with TV, garden.$10-20.

• Nest Hostel Mestia, Kakhiani st. 16, ☎ +995595 41 44 43, +995 555 52 55 77, e-mail:[email protected]. Centrally locatedwith balcony overlooking river mountains and 'Svan'towers holding the sky over Mestia. Friendly, En-glish speaking and very helpful staff. €9-11.

• Nino Ratiani’s Guesthouse, 1 Queen TamariStreet Akhalsheni, ☎ +995 99 18 35 55, +995 90 5278 18, e-mail: [email protected]. Guesthousewith private and single rooms, free wifi internet, hotwater and wonderful Georgian meals. Very com-fortable beds. New building with additional guest-rooms. Calling ahead for vacancy is advisable dur-ing summer. Putting up a tent may be possible for5GEL per person. Warm and friendly owners whospeak English. Additional services and airport pickups, meal requests, cooking lessons, etc. can be ar-ranged. 80 GEL for two persons including two veryextensive meals per day (April 2014). $20-25 perperson (including three meals).

• Nino Tstulukiani’s Guesthouse, GuladiJaparise Street no 8, ☎ +595 58 98 39, e-mail:[email protected] [email protected],[email protected]. Nice family run guesthousewith spacious rooms, shared sitting room andbathroom with hot water. The owner is an excellentcook. Currently (summer 2011) the family isbuilding a hotel, located next to the guesthouse.GEL 30 per person (includes dinner and breakfast).

• Roza Guetshouse, 17 Vittorio Sella Str. (About200 meters on the left just when entering Mes-tia.), ☎ +995 599641455, +995 598309919, e-mail:[email protected]. Very nice guest houseabove Mestia. Free Wi-Fi, hot water, nicely warmedin winter, and delicious Georgian food. Also, theview from the living room may be one of the mostbeautiful views on Mestia. Booking possible onbooking.com, or by email. From 15 to 40 Lari perperson (depending on season and options).

Several people rent rooms in their houses as well:

• House of Elguji Jorjoliani

• House of Ketevan Gabliani (Tel. +995 599-56-93-58)

• House of Malkhaza Argviliani (Tel. +995 599-25-90-80)

• House of Irma Khergiani (Tel. +995 598-97-72-38)

44.9.1 Becho village

• Shalva Kvitsiani’s Ushba Homestay, ☎ +995 59973 95 21. Guesthouse with private rooms, hot waterand meals in picturesque village Becho. Convenientfor a trek or climbing expedition to Ushba.

• Irine’s Guesthouse (Turn off the Zugdidi-Mestiahighway at Becho, then follow the main road in Be-cho for 2.5 km; the guesthouse is on the left.), ☎ +995591 810 242. Irine Japaridze operates a friendly,welcoming guest house in Becho, open year-round,which is located near a roaring river, in a beauti-ful yard with a garden and fruit trees. There aregreat views of Ushba, one of the tallest mountains inthe Caucasus, and you can walk to a nearby springwhich has naturally carbonated water. The food isoutstanding, cooked in the flavorful Svan style, andmuch of it comes fresh from the garden. Becho isa peaceful and quiet village even during the peak ofthe tourist season. The rooms are comfortable andthere is hot water. Day trips to Mestia, Ushguli, andother areas in Svaneti are easy, and Irine can arrangetransportation. Bring warm clothes: the bathroomis in another building, and nights in Svaneti can bechilly. GEL 40 per person, including breakfast anddinner, add GEL 5 if you want lunch. Pitch your tentin the yard and use the bathroom/shower for GEL 15per person, add meals for GEL 5 per meal.

• Guesthouse Svaneti Peak-Mazeri (owners pick-up from the main road), e-mail: [email protected]. Great location under Mt. Ushba, withgardens and meadows around, home-made naturaltraditional food. Horse-riding tours, trekking to wa-terfalls and Ushba glacier, and mountain river fishingare available. Families, backpackers and climbersare all welcome.

44.10 Connect

Not much Wi-Fi access, but several cafés, restaurants andguesthouses offer free and decent Wi-Fi.Geocell and Beeline both have quite decent signal in thearea.

148 CHAPTER 44. MESTIA

44.11 Go next• Mazeri - Svaneti mountain village, surrounded by

a stunningly beautiful landscapes and huge water-falls. The starting point for a several exciting Svanetitrekking routes, including Mount Ushba glacier trek.

• Mestia is also the embarkation point for a trip toUshguli, the highest altitude inhabited point in Eu-rope. There is another small Ethnographic Museumthere, containing 12th century religious artwork.

• To get a more authentic experience, also considervisiting nearby villages such as Lenjeri (many Svantowers), Latali (old and beautiful churches), andBecho (mountain hiking).

Chapter 45

Ushguli

Ushguli towers

Ushguli

Ushguli is a community of four villages in Svaneti nextto the foot of Shkhara, one of the highest Caucasian sum-mits. The Ushguli villages contain buildings that are partof the UNESCO heritage site of Upper Svaneti.

45.1 Understand

45.2 Get in

Transportation into Ushguli is very limited. There is aroad from Kutaisi that is serviced by private vehicles.Otherwise a trip from Mestia is the easiest way to seeUshguli. A private vehicle can take you up for a day trip,

or for a few days. The cost will be 200 GEL for a daytrip, and a bit higher if you stay a while longer. There arealso some local drivers that gather several tourists and dothe tour spiting the costs (in this case the price per personwill be 35 GEL), but it’s available not everyday, just askaround in Mestia. The trip from Mestia takes about 2.5hours one way despite being less than 70km in distancedue to the poor quality of the road.

45.2.1 On foot

It is also possible to hike from Mestia in 3-4 days whichis a great way to see Svaneti for the able-bodied.

45.3 Get around

Once in the villages, you can walk between them all veryeasily. get around Ushguli.

45.4 See• Typical Svanetian protective towers are found

throughout the village.• Ushguli Chapel (On a hilltop near the village). It

dates back to the 12th century.

45.5 Do• A visit to the Ethnography museum is well worth

the GEL 5-6 that the local children will ask for ad-mission. Housed in a preserved Svan house, the mu-seum contains artifacts ranging in age from the longhistory of the Svaneti regions. The local childrenwill provide rehearsed description of the artifacts inpassable English.

• The Georgian wartime treasury. Placed in the“most inaccessible part of Georgia” the count-less national treasures were held in the Ushgulimonastery during periods of conflict.

149

150 CHAPTER 45. USHGULI

• Go to Enguri to Shkhara

45.6 Buy

45.7 Eat

There are a few restaurants in the villages serving tradi-tional Georgian and Svan home cooking, catering to theincreasing numbers of tourists. You could also get foodfrom your guest house.

45.8 Drink

45.9 Sleep

Ask anyone in the village for a place to sleep or just walkaround until you see a sign saying “Guest house” (thereare a lot of them). The price will be $20-$30 per nightand include all your food.

45.10 Connect

45.11 Go next• Mazeri - Svaneti mountain village, surrounded by a

stunningly beautiful landscapes and huge waterfalls.The starting point for a several exciting Svanetitrekking routes, including Mount Ushba glaciertrek.

45.12. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 151

45.12 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

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152 CHAPTER 45. USHGULI

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• Ushguli Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ushguli?oldid=2841220 Contributors: Dguillaume, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Hippietrail, Sterio, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Addbot, Kiaora, M. and Anonymous: 5

45.12.2 Images• File:081_Tbilissi_de_nuit_Forteresse_de_Narikala.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f3/081_

Tbilissi_de_nuit_Forteresse_de_Narikala.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Moreau.henri• File:Achis_eklesia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/80/Achis_eklesia.jpg License: Public domain Con-

tributors: Transferred from ka.wikipedia; transferred to Commons by User:Geagea using CommonsHelper.Original artist: [1]. Original uploader was Surprizi at ka.wikipedia

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• File:David_Garedzha_(1).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/27/David_Garedzha_%281%29.jpg Li-cense: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: IMG_1068_b1 Original artist: Peter from Bern, Switzerland

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• File:Georgian-Turkish_border_near_the_Black_Sea.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Georgian-Turkish_border_near_the_Black_Sea.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Mr.Rosewater

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45.12. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 155

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45.12. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 157

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158 CHAPTER 45. USHGULI

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