The main objective of the pretreatment is to clean the textilematerials and to provide them the required quality and other specificcharacteristics. The major operations involve:•Desizing•Scouring•Mercerisation•Carbonizing (wool)•Chemical bleaching•

Optical brightening

DEFINITIONFinishing is the process done on the fabric surface for modifyingthe appearence, feel and the behaviour

Special Finishes or functional finish are the treatments that are applied to the fabric to make them suited for specific uses.

Paradise/Creacion is offering the auxiliaries for following treatments•Easy Care Finish

•Flame Retardant Finish •Water Repellent Finish•Soil Release Finish•Hydrophilic Finish•Anti Bacterial Finish.

Easy Care FinishIt is an acknowledged fact that cotton garments ensure maximum comfort thanks to their suppleness andtheir capacity to absorb humidity. The weak point of cotton clothing is its tendency to crease easily, which makes care of suchgarments more difficult, The tendency to crease is due to the to partially a

morphous structure of the cellulose, which means that structural alterations can quite easily occur.Many weak molecular bonds such as hydrogen or Van DerWaalsforces, which link together long cellulose polymer chains, can alter.Siltex 30200/Resin In order to limit creasing, Siltex 30200/Resin can be used whichcreates stronger (covalent) andmore permanent bonds and reducecreasing to a large extent.This product can be used in conjunction withsome other resins, polyethylene emulsions and silicone softeners.Assessment of crease resistance can be estimated inseveral ways: by measurement of the crease recover

y angles and appearance of fabric after repeated home laundering Fabric specimens are subjected to standard home laundering practices. Evaluation is performed using a standard lighting and viewing area by rating the appearance of specimens in comparison with appropriate reference standards (Rating5 being the smoothest and 1 being the most wrinkled in appearance)

Flame Retardant Finish:Flame retardants reduce the likelihood of a fire starting by improving the resistance to ignition of potential fire sources. There is no doubt that they play animportant role on textiles by providing safety andgiving

escape time from a potentials hazard.When a fire does start, flame retardants reduce theflame spread and the rate of fire development, providing valuable extra time in the early stages of the conflagration to extinguish the fire or make an escape.This is demonstrated* by comparing the rate of firespread in a conventional Non flame Retarded upholstered chair with that of one manufactured using flame retardant to comply with the Upholstered Furniture Fire Regulations (1988) in the UK. Ignition was by a 30 W gas burner.

Under the conditions of the test the armchair conta

ining the flame retardant fabric and flame retardant foam gives a significant increase in the escape time available. It is also far less likely to be ignited accidentally in the home.

WATER & OIL REPELLENT FINISH•The term waterproof refers to the finish that blockinterstices of fabric by forming a hydrophobic film on its surface thereby making it impermeable to air.•The water repellent finish is permeable to air but

not to water and so garments made fromsuch treated fabric are comfortable to wear.Siltex 30336/OWR

Typical application fields are: Carpet finishing.Clothing (e.g. sportswear & rain coat.).Umbrella cloth.Table linen curtains upholstery fabric.Tarpaulins and tents.Technical fabrics (e.g. fitter material, fabrics, protective clothing).

Soil release FinishA finish that increase the absorbency of a fabric, thisfinish allowed stains to leave the fabricfaster, increase the wicking action for greater comfort in wear, makes fa

bric dry-cleanable with out significant lossof soil release properties, and maintains brightness after respective repeated laundering.Siltex 30143/Soil ReleaseSiltex 30143/Soil Release is the ultimate insoil release/comfort finishes for polyester, Cotton and polyester/ cotton blend fabrics.Not only does Siltex 30143/Soil Release havesoil release and moisture transport properties that are unsurpassed in the industry, but the consistency and durability of its performance rank it above otherhydrophilic finishes.

Hydrophilic FinishThe term hydrophilicity is obtained from hydro (water) and philic (loving) which

literally means the tendency of a substance to attract water.Cotton is naturally hydrophilic due to the presenceof –OH group in its cellulose chain. These –OH group form hydrogen bonds with the –H present in water,to ensure an attraction of the water molecule to the cellulose fiber. It is known that silicones are inherently hydrophobic (water-repellent), When a fabric is finished with silicone(or any other softener, for that matter), the hydrophilicity of the fabric is decreased. This phenomenon can be altered when the silicone has an organo functional modification that allows the silicone itself to i

nteract with water much in the same way as cellulosedoes. The silicones can not confer hydrophilicity to a fabric which is inherently hydrophobic .It canonly interact with water to an extent where it does not interfere withthe hydrophilicity of the fabric itself. This naturally leads us to the conclusion that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is better at lower dosages, whereas the handle imparted by a silicone softener Improves at higher dosage,which reduces the hydrophilicity of the fabric, sothat search for the compromise between softness and hydrophilicity continues.

Siltex 30225/Hydrophilic

Product advantages:•Imparts or preserves the textile hydrophilicity of the fabric••••Full soft handle.••••Total Non-Yellowing even at high temperature.••••Durable to washing.••••Performance improves wash after wash.•

•••Leaving towel looking and feeling new wash after wash.

Antibacterial FinishSpores of fungi and bacteria exist everywhere and under hot and humid conditions these rapidly multiply feeding on theirhosts. These microorganisms attack the natural fibres as well as the finishes applied to these and cause mildew and rotting damages.Natural fibers such as cotton are more susceptible than synthetics because their porous hydrophilic structure retains water, oxygen and nutrients, providing a perfect en

vironment for bacterial growthThe enzymes that degrade cotton are cellulase and cellobiase and these reduce strength and produce colored and foul Smelling spots and even holes on the exposedfabric.

AntibacterialSiltex 30212/ Antibacterialis effective in killing and preventing the growth of both bacteria and fungiknown to degrade textile substratesThe product is Non Phenolic and FormaldehydeFree.

Product advantages:Safe, highly efficient and extensive Anti-microbialpropertiesHave a wide spectrum of activity.Durable, resistant to washing

Practically No influence on whiteness and shadeNo influence on strength. Handle and Permeability of fabricSoluble in water and easy to useSuitable for finishing cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester/cotton and viscose fabricParticularly can be applied to knitting fabric and towels for dipping treatment.Non Volatile and heat stable

Pre-finishingOne of the operations performed on the cotton, as a fibre, consists in washing and boiling, having the purpose of eliminating water-soluble substances, greases,

waxes and some dyes. Wool should also be submitted to washing, in order to eliminate all the extraneous substances in the fibre before those one are being processed. After washing and before spinning, it is performed the lubricating, i.e., the introduction of lubricating oil in the fibre to facilitate the thread formation. Threads can also be subjected to previous treatments, before to be transformed into fabric or knit. For fabrics manufacturing, warp threads are submitted tosizing in order to give wider strength to threads, considering the efforts of which they are subjected with the shed formation. In treatments made on fabric, we can refer tosingeingto eliminate the cotton

fibres pilosity, reducing the trend to pills formation. Another operation is desizing that, as its name indicates, consists in removing all chemical products, introduced during the sizing, from the fabric. Mercerisingis another treatment applied in cotton fibres, and confers them an increase of lustre, strength, tensile and dyes absorption. It’s also usual to perform boiling and bleaching processes on fabrics. The chemical products used in these operations depend on which fibres the fabric is made of.

Operation, performed after the preparation, dyeing or printing, designates to make the textile substrate more appropriate to its purpose

. Main objectives of finishes: •Modify the final effect of the article. •Modify the dyed or printed article’s functionality. The consumer expects that clothing, besides the fashion factor, provides him with: •A personal style •Comfort •High performance •Security •Functionality •Easy care

Nowadays, textile finishes begin to be known as: •Carded •Peach-skin finish •Easy care •Wrinkle free •No-iron •Anti-soiling and water-proof finish (resistant to washing and tumble drying)

•Anti-pilling Textile ProcessesPage 30Textile finishes divide into two major groups:•Mechanical Finishes Singeing

Mercerising Carding Emerising Milling Calendering Compacting/Sanforizing Stentering •Chemical Finishes Washing Softening Anti-bacteria Anti-pilling (enzyme-linked) Anti-felting Easy care / wash-and-wear / no-iron

Mechanical FinishesSingeing/Scorching Operation designates to burn (flame) the loose fibres into the articles surface, without burning the basic threads. Used in fabrics, knit and thread (in cotton articles and its blending with synthetic fibres).

What is a fabric finish?Once a fabric hasbeen produced it often goes through a finishing processto improve its

appearance and/orproperties. The main types of finishing are as follows:•Physical–

where a machine or tool is used to change the fabric•Chemical –where chemicals are used to change

the fabric•Bacterial–where bacteria and enzymes are used on cellulosebased (plant based) fibres•

Coated–where the fabric is coated on one side with a substance (such as Teflon, to repel staining)

Why are fabric finishes used?Finishes have been developedto improve

the fabric in many ways suchas:•Enhance appearance–colour, pattern, sheen•Change texture

–embossing, brushing, smoothing•Improve feel–softer, crisper, firmer•Improve drape–

weighted•Modify wearing qualities–crease resistance, stain resistance, flammability, waterproof etc•

Modify care requirements–easy wash, quicker drying times, colourfast, less shrinkage

Finish processes

and propertiesMechanical FinishEmbossing:

Engraved rollers create a relief pattern on thefabric. This changes the

texture and appearance of the fabric.Finish processes

and propertiesMechanical FinishCalendering:

Heavy rollers press the surface ofthe fabric. This makes the fabric smoother

and has improved sheen.Finish processes and properties

Chemical FinishWater repellent:Silicone is sprayed on

to the fabric surface. Droplets of water remain on the surface; air can pass

through. This is not waterproofing.Finish processes and properties

Chemical FinishShrink resistant:Fibre scales (found on

wool) are removed with chlorine, or resins block scales.Shrinking in washing is

reduced. Used in wool products.Crease ResistantChemical Finish

Resins are applied to afabric to make it crisper but crease less

Flame ResistantChemical FinishChemicals are applied to a yarn or fabric

that prevent the fabric from easily ignitingPressingMechanical Finish

Presses smooth the surface of the fabric. This gives a smoother surface.Often used on wool

fabrics. BrushingMechanical FinishWire rollers brush the surface of the

fabric creatinga raised surface.It feels soft.

Task

Design a product for one of the following brands in your sketchbook:•

Nike sports wear•Louis Vuittonbags•Chanel Evening wear

•Merrell walking bootsStain and Soil Resistant Finishes Prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics. Such finishesmay be resistant to oil-boure or water-bourne soil and stains or both.Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture. Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture.

Oil and Water Proofing Waterproof Finishes -Allows no water to penetrate, but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed that are waterproof, yet are also breathable

Water-Repellent Finishes Water-repellent finishes resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water will eventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found in raincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and shower curtains.

Absorbent FinishesIncrease fibres' moisture holding power. Such finishes have been applied to towels, cloth diapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important.

Anti Static FinishReduce static electricity which may accumulate on fibres. The most common type of anti-static finishes are fabric softeners.

Anti Mildew In certain ambient (humidity and heat) conditions, cellulose can be permanently damaged. This damage can be due to depolymerisation of thecellulose or to the fact that certain microoganisms (mildews) feed offit. The situation is worsened, during long storage periods, by the presence of starch finishing agents.This damage can be prevented by the use of antiseptics, bacteria controlling products containing quaternary ammonium salts, and phenol derivatives. Dyestuffs containing heavy metals can also act as antiseptics. Permanent modification of the fibre (cyanoethylation) is another possibility.

Mothproofing Finishes Protect protein-containing fibres, such as wool, from being attacked by moths, carpet beetles and other insects.

Antibacterial Finish The inherent properties of textile fibres provide room for the growth of micro-organisms. The structure and chemical process may induce the growth, but it is the humid and warm environment that aggravates the problem further. Antimicrobial finish is applied to textile materials with a view to protect the wearer and textile substrate itself.

Antimicrobial finish provides the various benefits of controlling the infestation by microbes, protect textiles from staining, discoloration, and quality deterioration and prevents the odor

formation.Anti-microbial agents can be applied to the textile substrates by exhaust, pad-dry-cure, coating, spray and foam techniques. The application of the finish is now extended to textiles used for outdoor, healthcare sector, sports and leisure.UV ProtectionFabric treated with UV absorbers ensures that the clothesdeflect the harmful ultraviolet rays of the sun, reducing a person's UVR exposure and protecting the skin from potential damage. The extentof skin protection required by different types of human skin depends on UV radiation intensity and distribution with reference togeographical location, time of day, and season. This protection is expressed as SPF (Sun Protection Factor), higher the SPF value better is the protection against UV radiation.

Colorfastness Improving FinishColour fastness is the resistance of a material to change in any of its colour characteristics, to the transfer of its colourants to adjacent materials or both. Fading means that the colour changes and lightens. Bleeding is the transfer of colour to a secondary, accompanying fibre material. This is often expressed as soiling or staining meaning that the accompanying material gets soiled or stained.

The physical and chemical principles involved in the performance of the fastnessnimproving finishes concern either the interaction with the dyestuff or with the fibre or both.

The finishes are applied toa.Improve the colorfastness to washingb.Improve the colorfastness to crockingc.Improve the colorfastness to lightd.Improve the colorfastness to weatheringe.Improve the colorfastness to chemicals washes such as mild bleaching, dry cleaning and commercial washing.

Plasma finishPlasma treatment is a surface modifying process, where a gas (air,

oxygen, nitrogen, argon,carbon dioxide and so on), injected inside a reactor at a pressure of approximately 0.5 mbar, is ionised by the presence of two electrodes between which is a high-frequency electric field. The need to create the vacuum is justified by the necessity to obtain a so-called cold plasma with a temperature no higher than 80 °C. This, with the same energy content that can be reached at atmospheric pressure at a temperature of some thousands of degrees C, permits the treatment of fabrics even with a low melting point such aspolypropylene and polyethylene, without causing any form of damage.Thefabric, sliding through the electrodes, is subject to a true bombardment from the elements that constitute the plasma (ions, electrons, UV radiation and so on) and which come from the decomposition of gas and contain a very high level of kinetic energy. The surface of the fabric exposed to the action of the plasma is modified, both physically (roughness), as well as chemically, to remove organic particles still present and to prepare for the successive introduction of free radicals and new chemical groups inside the molecular chain on the surface of the material. The mechanical properties remain, on the other hand, unaltered, as the treatment is limited to the first molecular layers.

3.Enzyme Finishing Bio polishing, also called bio-finishing, is a finishing process applied to cellulosic textiles that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes. Bio-finishing removes protruding fibres and slubs fromfabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and provides a smooth fabric appearance, especially forknitwear and as a pretreatment for printing.

Textile FinishingTextile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber,fabric, or clothing. In order to impart the required functionalproperties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject thematerial to different type of physical and chemical treatments.For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessaryto make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way,mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water

proof, antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some of theimportant finishes applied to textile fabric.

Broadly it can be classified into following classes,which areused individually or in combination with each other. (other termsare also used such as wet finishing, dry finishing, durablefinishes and non durable finishes)

1.Mechanical Finishing:Involving the application of physical principles such asfriction, temperature, pressure, tension and many others.

CalenderingA process of passing cloth between rollers (or "calendars"),usually under carefully controlled heat and pressure, to producea variety of surface textures or effects in fabric such ascompact, smooth, supple, flat and glazed. The process involvespassing fabric through a calendar in which a highly polished,usually heated, steel bowl rotates at a higher surface speed thanthe softer (e.g. cotton or paper packed) bowl against which itworks, thus producing a glaze on the face of the fabric that isin contact with the steel bowl. The friction ratio is the ratioof the peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to that of theslower bowl and is normally in the range 1.5 to 3.0. The normalwoven fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinaryquality plain weave fabrics, because of the round shape of theyarns, and interlacings of warp and weft at right angles to eachother. In such fabrics it is more often seen that even when thefabric is quite regular, it is not flat. During calendering, theyarns in the fabric are squashed into a flattened ellipticalshape; the intersections are made to close-up between the yarns.This causes the fabric surface to become flat and compact. Theimproved planeness of surface in turn improves the glaze of thefabric. The calender machines may have several rollers, some ofwhich can be heated and varied in speed, so that in addition topressure a polishing action can be exerted to increase lustre.

Compacting

Durable finish imparted on man-made fibres and knitted fabrics byemploying heat and pressure to shrink them to produce a crêpeyand bulky texture.

EmbossingThis particular type of calendering process allows engraving asimple pattern on the fabric.To produce a pattern in relief bypassing fabric through a calendar in which a heated metal bowlengraved with the pattern works against a relatively soft bowl,built up of compressed paper or cotton on a metal centre.

SuedingThis process is carried out by means of a roller coated withabrasive material. The fabric has a much softer hand and animproved insulating effect thanks to the fibre end pulled out ofthe fabric surface.

Raising or NappingThe raising of the fibre on the face of the goods by means ofteasels or rollers covered with card clothing (steel wires) thatare about one inch in height. Action by either method raises theprotruding fibres and causes the finished fabric to providegreater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more compact,causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in feel;increase durability and covers the minute areas between theinterlacings of the warp and the filling. Napped fabrics includeblankets, flannel, unfinished worsted, and several types ofcoatings and some dress goods. Other names for napping areGigging, Genapping, Teaseled, Raised.

Wool GlazingThis is done on a special machine, which is used to performfunctional finishing on wool fabrics after raising.

Shearing Shearing is an important preparatory stage in the processing ofcotton cloth. The objective of "Shearing" is to remove fibres and

loose threads from the surface of the fabric, thus improvingsurface finish.

StabilizationA term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions havebeen set by a suitable preshrinking operation

DecatingAlso called Decatizing. A finishing process applied to fabrics toset the material, enhance lustre and improve the hand.Fabricwound onto a perforated roller is immersed in hot water or hassteam blown through it.

Steaming and Heat settingIt is done by using high temperatures to stabilize fabricscontaining polyester, nylon, or triacetate but not effective oncotton or rayon.it may be performed in fabric form or garmentform it may cause shade variation from side-to-side if done priorto dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing

Sanforizing or Pre ShrinkingSanforizing is a process where by the fabric is run through asanforizer; a machine that has drums filled with hot steam. Thisprocess is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.The fabricis given an optimum dimensional stability by applying mechanicforces and water vapour.

Fulling:The structure, bulk and shrinkage of wool are modified byapplying heat combined with friction and compression.

2.Chemical FinishingThe finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins,a fabric can receive properties otherwise impossible to obtainwith mechanical means.

Softening Softening is carried out when the softness characteristics of acertain fabric must be improved,always carefully considering thecomposition and properties of the substrate.

Elastomeric Finishes Elastomeric finishes are also referred to as stretch or elasticfinishes and are particularly important for knitwear. Thesefinishes are currently achieved only with silicone-basedproducts. The main effect is durable elasticity, because not onlymust extensibility be enhanced, but recovery from deformation isof crucial importance. After all stresses and disturbing forceshave been released, the fabric should return to its originalshape.

Crease Resistant or Crease ProofingCrease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres(cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Pressfabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling andalso help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing andcleaning.

Soil Release Finishes These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres duringcleaning and help remove soil.

Flame Retardant TreatmentAre applied to combustible fabrics used in children's sleepwear,carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles frombursting into flame.Peach finishSubjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) toemery wheels, makes the surface velvet like. This is a specialfinish mostly used in garments.

Anti Pilling

Pilling is a phenomenon exhibited by fabrics formed from spunyarns (yarns made from staple fibres). Pills are masses oftangled fibres that appear on fabric surfaces during wear orlaundering. Fabrics with pills have an unsightly appearance andan unpleasant handle. Loose fibres are pulled from yarns and areformed into spherical balls by the frictional forces of abrasion.These balls of tangled fibres are held to the fabric surface bylonger fibres called anchor fibres.

Anti pilling finish reduces the forming of pills on fabrics andknitted products made from yarns with a synthetic-fibre content,which are inclined to pilling by their considerable strength,flexibility and resistance to impact. Anti pilling finish isbased on the use of chemical treatments which aim to suppress theability of fibres to slacken and also to reduce the mechanicalresistance of synthetic fibre.

Non Slip FinishA finish applied to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping andsliding when in contact with another yarn.The main effect of non-slip finishes is to increase the adhesion between fibres andyarns regardless of fabric construction, the generic term forthese finishes would be fibre and yarn bonding finishes. Otherterms that can be used include anti-slip, non-shift and slip-proofing finishes.

Textile Finishing

Finishing processes can be divided into two broad classes: physical and chemical. In most cases finishing comprises 3 stages:

• Washing and Drying• Stabilising• Pressing and aesthetics

Washing processes are essential to ensure that fabrics are not contaminated and are preparatory for other finishing stages.  Processes that are carried out during washing include:

• Bleaching: Whitens the fabric by destroying the colour inthe fabric• Carbonizing: Removing vegetable from wool in an acidic treatment• Desizing: Removing any sizing in the warp threads• Scouring: Removing any dirt, wax or grease accumulated inthe manufacture process.• Mercerizing: For cellulosic fabrics, caustic (using a base) treatment to improve strength, lustre and absorbency.• Milling, Fulling or Walking- agitating the fabric under specific conditions to create friction and tighten up the fabric. 

During drying, most performance-enhancing chemical finishes areapplied. Chemical finishes can be either subtractive or additive.An additive finish increases the mass of the fabric by absorbingonto the surface or into the fibre. A subtractive finishcarefully degrades the fabric surface to reduce its mass.Chemical finishes can be used to modify fabric appearance, alterhandle, control fabric dimensions, improve fabric performance,protect the fibre, or impart easy-care properties. Not allfinishes last for long; short-lived finishes are known asTransient. Durable finishes last much longer.It is preferable, both commercially and environmentally, for achemical finish to be applied in an aqueous, rather than anorganic-solvent-based, environment. To make the process asefficient as possible, it is important to use a concentration offinish approximately equal to the critical application value(CAV). Below this value the finish will be uneven, but far abovethis value the energy costs of removing excess solvent becomeprohibitive.

Fabric handle  is a very important quality in all textiles, andparticularly in the Clothing market sector. Fabric handle can bemodified by mechanical means (through bending, flexing orabrasion), or by chemical softening agents. Chemical softening

agents are applied to almost all fabrics and are there tocounteract the inherent harshness of man-made fibres, or theharshness imparted by other finishes. Some fabric softeners, suchas those used in industry, are durable, whereas home-applicationsofteners tend to last for one wash before being reapplied.

Antistatic finishes are applied by chemical means. They preventthe build-up of static electricity that can occur due to frictionbetween electrically-insulating fibres. Static electricity can beof annoyance in clothing but is of great concern in theAutomotive, Aerospace, PPE ? and Geotextiles market sectors, whereit can cause sparks, possibly leading to fires or explosions.Antistatic finishes work by increasing the conductivity offibres, thus preventing the build-up of static charge, and byreducing the friction between fibres.

Water repellent (hydrophobic) and oil repellent (oleophobic)finishes can be applied chemically. Surface Tension ? of thefabric is the crucial factor that must be modified for thesefinishes to work.Easy-care and durable press finishes  are a lucrative market andare largely applied to cotton or cotton/polyester blends. Easy-care implies that the product requires minimal ironing orpressing, while durable press implies that pleats and creaseswill be resistant to normal use. Easy-care products seek toreduce the shrinkage that cellulosic fibres undergo duringwashing as this leads to creasing.  They work by cross-linkingthe hydroxyl groups in the cellulosic polymer. Easy-care finishesmust be easy to apply, cheap, have minimal environmental impactand cause no change in fabric whiteness. They are applied eitherwhen the fabric is wet, moist, or dry; each method producesslightly different results.

Flame-retardant finishes can also be applied by chemical means,as can stain resistant and antimicrobial finishes.

Plasma finishing  uses plasma, sometimes called the fourth stateof matter, to alter a fabric. Plasma is a gas containing bothcharged and neutral species and is present in flames, the sun, inlightning and in lasers. It can be used to etch a fibre or fabric

surface, to attach new functional groups to a surface, or tochange structure. However, plasma finishes are not yet durable asthey affect only the surface of the substrate.

Stabilising occurs once the drying and performance finishing hashalted. It is important because during wet finishing fabrics areoften stretched, so realigning and setting is necessary to limittheir unpredictability when working in the finished fabric.Without stabilising, fabrics are vulnerable to shrinking.Stabilising can be carried out in many different ways:

• Calendar compressing: a mechanical process that modifiesa fabric surface by passing it through heated rollers. Itcompacts the spacing in knit fabrics.• Decatising: For wool fabrics, the fabric is sandwichedbetween a cotton cloth, the pressure of which willinfluence the set; this is then placed in an autoclave andheated under pressure.• Heat setting: Carried out both on natural and syntheticfabrics. It is much-used in the production of carpetsbecause it reduces the tensions in a yarn, which otherwisecan detrimentally effect a carpet.• Sanforising: Fabric is mechanically stabilised with theapplication of heat and moisture, then ran through acompressive roller.

The conditions experienced during stabilising need to be thosewhich the fabric will not encounter again during its productlife.Physical finishing encompasses many different processes,including brushing, calendering, and heat-setting. Calendering isa mechanical process that modifies a fabric surface by passing itthrough heated rollers. This can be carried out to increase sheenand lustre, to reduce thickness, or to reduce air permeability.There are many types of calendering, and some can be carried outusing embossed rollers to impart patterns on the fabric.

Pressing is the final opportunity to change the finish of afabric. It is greatly influence by both the fabric fibre content,structure and end requirement. Some fabrics will require a clean,

lustrous finish, but that same fabric can be manipulated to lookfussy, soft and warm.Processes include:

• Brushing is used to make a fabric’s handle softer. Thefabric is run through a series of wire bristles that liftindividual fibres from the fabric, making a soft nap.• Calendering: the fabric passes through a set of rollerswhich can add lustre or an embossed effect.  • Singeing: Heat is used to singe away any loose fibres onthe fabric surface. It is a dry process, which can be usedprior to washing.• Raising is a physical finish where fibres are lifted toproduce a warm-feeling and soft fabric, such asflannelette.• During emerising, a fabric is passed over a rotatingemery-covered roller (or over multiple rollers) to give asuede-like or peach-like finish. It produces a very shortpile (protruding fibres) that softens the handle of thefabric.