JEWELRY MAKING

 

 

ST. JOSEPH COUNTY 4-H

 

 JEWELRY MAKING EXHIBIT REQUIREMENTS

Jewelry is the art of creating personal adornment with materials such as, but not limited to: metals, glass, and clay. All jewelry will be judged on workmanship, appearance, and creativity. Members must exhibit in their current grade.

Workshops are held in April, May, and June. All members are encouraged to attend. Postcards are mailed to jewelry members in early spring with dates, times, and location of meetings.

All jewelry members must display their projects on a 15” x 15” board covered in black fabric.

Directions and a materials list can be found in the Jewelry Manual. All pieces of jewelry should be securely fastened to the board with small, plain straight pins. Members are welcome to enhance individual pieces of jewelry with plain paper silhouettes. These are to be hand cut by the 4-H’er. Examples: simple geometric shapes, handprint, zigzags, and curves. These are to enhance and not distract from the jewelry!

All necklaces, bracelets, and anklets must have clasps– except for memory wire items.

Failure to follow the exhibit guidelines will result in a reduction in the scoring.

BEGINNER– GRADES 3 & 4

Members will become familiar with the simple types of jewelry and learn the fundamental skills. These skills include: how to complement colors, patterns, and textures; add clasps and closures; choose appro-priate findings; and construct simple earrings. The bead loom and crimp covers are not allowed in these grades. All exhibited jewelry is to be made from pre-made materials, including kits.

GRADES 3 & 4 EXHIBIT: Members will exhibit exactly 3 pieces of jewelry. At least one of the pieces must include a crimp bead. At least one of the pieces must include a headpin. The 3 pieces of jewelry must be displayed on the required board. A pair of earrings counts as one piece of jewelry. Any combi-nation may be exhibited, for example; 3 necklaces, or 1 bracelet and 2 pairs of earrings, or 1 necklace, 1 bracelet, and 1 pair of earrings. The jewelry should not match in any way. Different materials, colors, and patterns are encouraged.

 

 

INTERMEDIATE– GRADES 5 & 6 & 7

Members will expand on the basic skills previously learned and create more involved pieces. Members are encouraged to experiment with different types of materials, new techniques, and creativity. Beads

may be made by the 4-H’er in these grades and crimp covers may also be used. All pieces of jewelry must have a pattern. Please see the Jewelry Manual for guidance on writing and copying patterns. Learning new jewelry techniques is stressed at this level. A technique may include a skill and/or a type of jewelry. Examples include, but are not limited to: wire wrapping, clay, bead looming, knotting, peyote and brick stitch, bead stringing, etc.

GRADES 5 & 6 & 7 EXHIBIT: Members must exhibit exactly 3 pieces of jewelry that demon-

strates 2 or more different techniques. Variety is stressed at this level. The 3 pieces of jewelry must be displayed on the required board. At least one piece of jewelry must be from a published pattern. Suitable patterns can be found online, in beading books, at craft stores, and in beading magazines. At least one piece of jewelry must be an original design. Original pieces of jewelry must have a pattern written by the 4-H’er. Please see the Jewelry Manual for directions on writing a pattern. Patterns are to be in 81/2” x 11” envelope with your name and securely fastened to the back of your display board.

ADVANCED– GRADES 8-12

Members are encouraged to explore advanced jewelry techniques and design their own pieces using a

variety of materials. All pieces of jewelry must have a pattern. Please see the Jewelry Manual for guidance on writing and copying patterns. The following skills should be learned by the 4-H’er: double crimping and headpin loop with wire wraps. These skills are explained in the Jewelry Manual.

GRADES 8-12 EXHIBIT: Members must exhibit exactly 4 pieces of jewelry that demonstrates

different techniques and creativity. Variety is stressed at this level. The 4 pieces of jewelry must be displayed on the required board. At least one piece of jewelry must be from a published pattern. Suitable patterns can be found online, in beading books, at craft stores, and in beading magazines. At least two pieces of jewelry must be original designs. Original pieces of jewelry must have a pat-tern written by the 4-H’er. Please see the Jewelry Manual for directions on writing a pattern. Patterns are to be in an 81/2” x 11” envelope with your name and securely fastened to the back of your display board.

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REQUIRED DISPLAY BOARD

These directions are to be followed by all grades. Beautiful jewelry is shown off to its greatest potential when displayed attractively. The display board will cost approximately $10 to make and is to be used for all future jewelry projects.

Materials

1/2 yard black plush fabric (velvet or velvet like)

15” x 15” foam core board

Hot glue, small straight pins, or black carpet tape

Directions

1. Cut the fabric at least 3” larger than the board

2. Stretch the fabric over the board, neatly folding in the corners (like wrapping a present)

3. Glue, pin, or tape the corners securely (Pins are the most forgiving to work with)

4. Fold in the sides and secure

5. Optional– Use remaining fabric to cover the back of the board

6. Securely fasten envelope to the back of the board (Intermediate & Advanced grades

ONLY)

 

 

PATTERNS

INTERMEDIATE AND ADVANCED GRADES

Included in this manual is a very small sampling of beading techniques that are used to make jewelry. I hope this gets you started with the fundamentals and gives you some ideas for projects. When you are ready for new ideas and more challenging projects, try the local craft and bead stores. Your local library has a good selection of jewelry/beading books and magazines and of course the internet has millions of sites with all kinds of beading information, projects, and supplies. Remember to always keep a copy of the patterns you use. The patterns must be included in an envelope fastened to the back of your display board for grades 5-12. If you use someone else’s pattern without giving credit to that designer you are guilty of plagiarism.

You do not have to follow any pattern exactly. Feel free to add your own ideas and modify the pattern to suit your needs. Making jewelry is an expression of who you are and what you like– so have fun and let your creativity flow. Just be sure to show any changes you made on the pattern you turn in for judging.

For the Intermediate and Advanced grades, an original pattern(s) must be included as part of your exhibit. The pattern(s) should be brief, but include enough detail that someone reading your pattern could recreate the piece. Remember to give yourself credit as the designer by clearly stating it at the top of your pattern. Make sure to include a short explanation of why you chose to create the piece of jewelry, a list of materials and techniques, and a diagram if the design lends itself to it. Please refer to the example found on the next page.

 

 

ORIGINAL PATTERN EXAMPLE

Flower Necklace

Original Pattern

Flowers are my favorite! I found the center bead first and wanted to create a simple necklace with my favorite color purple. I think I will wear this piece for a special

occasion.

Materials: Techniques:

Toggle clasp Bead stringing

Crimp beads Crimp beads

Bead stringing wire

4mm glass ivory round beads

8mm glass purple round beads

Floral glass bead

 

 

 

 purple 

purple ivory 

ivory 

 

 

BASIC JEWELRY INFORMATION

Here is a list of the most basic jewelry findings and materials. Findings are the pieces that turn beads into wearable works of art. There are more complicated uses for some of the findings, but generally these are the best uses for the findings listed here.

1. Beads– Whether purchased or handmade, beads can be found in a huge variety of shapes,

sizes, colors, materials, and cost. The kinds of beads used in a piece of jewelry are

entirely up to the individual. It is recommended that all grades try to avoid plastic

pony beads, paddle beads, and snowflake beads.

2. Stringing Materials– This is also a huge and varying group. Stringing choices should be

made based on the size and weight of the beads, and the beading

techniques used. Some of the most common stringing choices are

listed here.

A. Thread– May be either silk or nylon. Should be used with fine and/or delicate

beads. Needles are recommended. Knotting and bead tip are used

to attach clasps and closures.

B. Beading Wire– This is a thin strand of braided wires coated with plastic. It has

many different names; SoftFlex, Tiger Tail, Acculon, Beading

Wire. This is one of the most durable stringing materials. It is

one of the easiest to work with. There is a wide range of

beads this material will work with. It is especially good for

seed beads. No needles are necessary. Crimp beads (see #4)

are used to attach clasps and closures.

C. Leather– Easy to work with, but limited in the sizes of beads that may be

used. Coils should be used to attach closures.

D. Hemp/Cording– Traditionally used for knitting techniques. Patterns usually

suggest knotted clasps, but for judging coils are

recommended.

 

  3. Clasps– Again there is a wide and ever changing variety. All serve the same purpose and the

selection is a matter of choice. Clasps must be on all necklaces, bracelets, and anklets

with the exception of memory wire. Some of the more common clasps are pictured

here.

Toggle Clasp Lobster Claw Magnetic Filigree Multi Strand

4. Crimp Beads/Tubes– These “beads” fall into the findings category. They are made to be

smashed with smooth needle nose pliers when attaching clasps on

bead stringing wire. Crimp covers are findings that are made to

cover the crimp beads. This will give a cleaner finish to the

jewelry. Crimp covers may not be used in the Beginner grades.

 

 

 

 

                         Crimp Beads Crimp Tube Crimp Bead Cover

5. Jump Rings & Split Rings– These findings are used to hang charms and pendants,

Attach clasps, and connect elements together. The jump

Ring should always be pulled open sideways, never pull

Straight apart, because doing so will destroy the shape of

The ring. It will look lopsided. A split ring is just a

Smaller version of a key ring. It is the stronger of these

Two because it cannot be pulled apart.  

   

    Jump Rings Split Rings

6. Headpins & Eye Pins– These are used to string beads. They are most often used to make elements that

dangle-on earrings or charms. A headpin has a flat end that keeps the beads

from falling off. The eye pin has a loop on one end for the same purpose.

please see Basic Techniques in this manual to learn how to properly use

headpins/eye pins in your jewelry designs.

Headpin Eye Pin

7. Bead Tip– This piece hides the knot used to attach clasps to pieces strung on beading thread. The cup

of the bead tip is folded over the knot for a more professional finish.

 

 8. Earring Findings– This is another finding category with many choices. Personal preference is the

determining factor. The least expensive pieces will be plated. Good for practice,

but not very durable when worn. The most practical choices will be sterling silver

or gold filled. Here is a small sampling of earring findings.

Fish Hook Kidney Clip-on Ball and Drop

9. Bead Storage– Egg cartons and muffin tins make inexpensive and convenient holders for beads.

Many other storage solutions can be found in hardware and craft departments.

10. Bead Board– This board has rulers and grooves to help plan out designs.

11. Polymer Clay– Commonly called; Fimo Classic, Fimo Soft, Sculpey, Original, Premo and Kato

Polyclay. Members in the Intermediate and Advanced grades can make beads from

this clay. Be sure to carefully read the baking directions.

12. Tools– The right tool makes the job a whole lot easier. The basic tool kit would include the following

pieces:

Wire cutters long nose round nose

Cuts bead stringing wire smashes crimp beads turns headpin loops

 

 

BASIC TECHNIQUES

The following techniques are a great start for the Beginner grades to practice and exhibit. For the Intermediate and Advanced grades, these will be a good reminder of important jewelry making techniques. For visual demonstrations of the techniques please search youtube.com.

Basic Necklace/Bracelet/Anklet

Materials

Beads

Bead stringing wire

2 crimp beads

Clasp

Wire cutters

Flat nose smooth pliers

1. After determining the sequence of your beads, string them onto the bead stringing wire while it is still attached to the spool. This will help keep the beads from falling off and prevent waste of

stringing material.

2. After all the beads are strung, string one crimp bead and one half of the clasp.

3. Fold the bead stringing wire back over the clasp loop and back down into the crimp bead. Use

smooth plier to smash the crimp bead firmly until flat.

4. Do not cut off the extra bead stringing wire! Just push beads over at least 1/2” of the wire. Any wire

beyond that may be cut off with wire cutters. This will make the item more wearable and attractive.

5. Now it is time to cut the bead stringing wire. Let all the beads fall into place and then cut the wire 3”

beyond the last bead.

6. String the last crimp bead and other half of the clasp.

clasp 

crimp bead 

bead wire  

 

 

BASIC TECHNIQUES (CONTINUED)

7. Fold the bead stringing wire back over the clasp loop and back down into the crimp bead and into at

least 1/2” of beads.

8. Pull the extra bead stringing wire until the beads snug up to the clasp. Do not let the piece get too stiff

or it will not wear well.

9. Use smooth pliers to smash the crimp bead firmly until flat. Cut off any remaining wire with wire

cutters.

Double Crimp

This technique is for the Advanced Jewelry members. The purpose is to make the crimp bead hold stronger and the appearance more uniform and professional. There is a tool that will help create this look, but it is not necessary.

After smashing the crimp bead flat, turn the crimp bead vertically and with smooth flat nose pliers gently push the top and bottom ends together to from more of an oval appearance.

Double crimping tool   Example of a double crimped bead 

 

 

Basic Headpin Turn

This loop is one of the hardest techniques in jewelry making. Becoming good at it requires a lot of long, cheap headpins and practice. Make your goal uniformity: not perfection. Having two loops that look alike is better than having one great loop and one poor loop.

1. After adding beads to the headpin, clip the wire so it extends 1/2” above the last bead.

2. Firmly grasp the wire with smooth flat pliers just a scant 1/8” above the last bead.

3. Bead the wire at a right angle.

4. Using the round nose pliers create a loop by wrapping the wire counterclockwise around the

jaw of the pliers. Keep the wire in the middle of the pliers, or the loop will be too small.

5. If there is any extra wire, carefully clip it off with wire cutters. The loop should be a complete

circle with very little gap between the first bend and the end of the circle.

6. For Advanced Grades Only– You should try adding a wrap after completing the loop. Do

not cut off extra wire after beading the headpin. At least 1” of wire will be used to make the

loop and wrap. After turning the loop make at least two turns around the headpin before

clipping the wire.

Basic Headpin Turn  

Wire Wrapped Headpin  

 

 

Earrings with Headpins

Materials

1 pair earring findings

1 pair headpins

Beads

1. Bead headpins in desired pattern.

2. Make a loop at the top of each headpin.

3. Carefully open loops on the earring finding and add headpin.

4. Carefully close loops on the earring findings.

There are many more techniques in jewelry making. Please use patterns, books, magazines, and the in-ternet to research other techniques. This list is just a starting point.

1. Wire wrapping and wirework.

2. Making clay beads.

3. Bead looming

4. Bead stitches

A. Peyote

B. Brick

C. Herringbone

D. Right angle

E. Square

F. Daisy chain

5. Knotting

The internet is a huge resource. Here are a few sites I have found helpful. These sites have a huge selec-tion of free patterns as well as products that may be difficult to find locally. Just remember grades 5-12 need to keep a copy of all patterns used in the exhibit.

firemountaingems.com about.com

wigjig.com beadandbutton.com

beadbuddies.com ask.com

favecrafts.com