Distributor USA1330 West Avenue - Suite 1102 - Miami Beach FL 33139 - USA - [email protected]

Distributor USA1330 West Avenue - Suite 1102 - Miami Beach FL 33139 - USA - [email protected]

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When a simple gesture reveals great feelings.

Emotions__madE in italydiamond stringsdesigned by Carlo Palmieroin Valenza

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VICENZA ROMA MILANO TAORMINA BASILEA NAPOLI LAS VEGAS TOKYO NEW YORK

BAHRAIN DUBAI MADRID LONDRA SAN PIETROBURGO DUBLINO ATENE

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CHARME COLLECTION

MADE IN ITALY

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Davite & DelucchiDavite & Delucchi interprets the elegance

and charm of the deco crossover ring in white gold and diamonds.

Designer Fausto Delucchi

29-01-2009 11:22:50

Los Angeles is rarely thought of as a hub of the diamond andjewelry trade, but during one week of the year it matters morethan all the other centers combined. I realized this in February,when a visit there happened to coincide with Oscar week.Even though I grew up in LA, the Hollywood of popular

imagination eluded me because I lacked an entree into itsexclusive circles. This time, armed with invites to a few Oscargatherings, I had every intention of soaking up the spectacle.

My first stop was Erica Courtney’s 10th annual Oscar party at the W Hotel in Westwood. The designer,profiled in this issue’s special report on ethical jewelry, has teamed up with the Tanzanite Foundation ona collection featuring the rare, blue-violet gemstone. It seemed only fitting in this milieu of outsizepersonalities that a flawless 525-carat specimen with a rich, velvety sheen was the example on display.Next up was the Thompson Hotel in Beverly Hills, where H. Stern was hosting a suite. International

Communications Director Andrea Hansen had brought a collection of baubles gorgeous enough towoo the most snobbish of stylists, the real fashion powers in Hollywood. She showed me vintage cuffsfrom headquarters in Rio de Janeiro, an 80-carat diamond necklace worn by pop princess Fergie duringher recent nuptials, and the new Giverny collection, described in this issue’s global brands feature. Butnot even these stellar jewels could guarantee H. Stern a coveted red carpet endorsement.Meanwhile, down the street, at the iconic Beverly Hilton Hotel, another Oscar suite hosted by the PR

firm TMG was in progress. I arrived just in time to watch a crew from the TV show Access Hollywoodtape a segment on Sethi Couture’s ornate diamond jewelry. TMG was hoping to dress SlumdogMillionaire’s Freida Pinto in something extravagant. (Good luck, I thought; they were hardly the only ones.)My stay in the mythical Hollywood ended at the Spirit Awards for independent films, a raucous,

irreverent ceremony held on Santa Monica beach on the day before the Oscars. As a guest of Piaget,a premier sponsor, I sat behind the table occupied by the crew from The Wrestler, including directorDarren Aronofsky, his partner, actress Rachel Weisz, and the star of the film, Mickey Rourke. Every timethe cameras panned to Mickey (which was often, given that he won for best actor and the film won forbest feature), there I was in the background, giggling at my image on the big screens flanking the stage.When Mickey, a gregarious and gracious if somewhat strange personality, learned we were with the

company responsible for outfitting him with a luxury watch, he pulled back the sleeve of his silk jacketand flashed a Piaget Polo in white gold with diamonds. “Is that you?” he asked no one in particular.The gesture made me wonder what the brand actually meant to him. Like the other celebrities Piaget

dressed that day (Anne Hathaway, Jessica Alba and Alec Baldwin, to name a few), Mickey almostcertainly wore what his stylist had chosen for him after some intense brokering. I doubted his own tastefigured much into the equation. It was a simple but revealing moment. The Oscar dressing game is anillusion we collectively — and happily, might I add — embrace. Why? Because much of our industry’ssuccess comes down to helping the Hollywood myth sparkle even more seductively.

Mickey, Oscar and me

Victoria [email protected]

E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

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ANDREOLI s.r.lVicolo dei Sarmati 1/A - 15048 Valenza (AL) Italy

tel. +39 0131 946665 - Fax +39 0131 946095e-mail: [email protected] - www.andreoli-gioielli.com

presenti alle fiere - present at the fairsBASEL Halle 2.2 Stand E90 - LAS VEGAS JCK - NEW YORK - VICENZA Pad. B Stand 661

Italian JewelleryItalian Jewellery

I N T H I S I S S U E

14 Global Luxury How are the world’sleading luxury brands greeting this tumultuousyear? Judging by their bold spring collections, alot less conservatively that you might haveguessed.

34 SPECIAL REPORT:Ethical JewelryThere’s no denying the zeitgeist: In a world gonemad for money, one way to promote luxury is tomake sure it’s affiliated with the right ideals.

Designing for a cause 38

42 Tastemakers This issue’s influencers — amedievalist, a video artist, an artisanal crafts advocateand a cutting-edge retailer — project pure passion.

Nicole Mackinlay Hahn 42Tania Machado 44Liliane Jossua 45

50 Influences Jewelry inspired by theunlikeliest of icons.

The good, the green and theutterly gorgeous is how we’dcharacterize our spring jewelryfeature. Not all of the jewelsare green in the philosophicalsense of the word, but that’sokay. Even if they’re green inappearance only, just think ofthem as spreading the word.

19 Couture Spotlight

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On the coverPicchiotti«A 10 ct. fancy yellow cushiondiamond is the focal point of thisimportant ring. Belonging to theUnique Diamond Collection,the cushion is enhanced by aspecial «trellis-workmanship»where each single diamond isset in its own box creating anirregular grate. TypicallyPicchiotti, it clearly denotesPicchiotti’s mastery in workingwith calibrated stones.»

Cover Feature on page 12BaselWorld Hall 2.2 Booth B30www.picchiotti.it

no 286 - 1/2009

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Vicolo dei sarmati, 1/A - 15048 Valenza (AL) - Italy

tel. (+) 39 0131 946665 - fax (+) 39 0131 946095

e-mail: [email protected] www.andreoli-gioielli.com

Presenti alle fiere di: BASILEA - NEW YORK - LAS VEGAS (Couture JCK) - HONG KONG (edizione di settembre) - VICENZA - VALENZA

Impianto x Couture marzo_sro:Impianto x Couture marzo 09.03.09 20:37 Page1

46 Designer Roundup The royals of Saudi Arabia, collectors of art jewelry, lovers of fine colored stones and fans of modern Indian style wouldapplaud our designer fantastic foursome.

52 Couture Practices Online used to be a dirtyword in the fine jewelry sphere, but a coterie of sophisticatedWeb entrepreneurs are gradually helping to change that.

I N T H I S I S S U E

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Official Jewelry Magazine of

Couture 2009©COUTURE International Jeweler, 25 route des Acacias, CH - 1227 Genève, SwitzerlandTel. +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, Help desk: [email protected]

48 56

Editor’s Letter 06

Marketplace: Vicenza 48The First fair in Vicenza set the stage for a showdown between Italian jewelers who sidewith trends or tradition.

Advertiser/Editorial Index 55

Freely Speaking 56Under new show director Liz Hitchcock, the Couture event in Las Vegas is undergoing a subtle transformation.

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C O V E R S T O R Y

Modern, vibrantconcepts by Picchiotti

Picchiotti’s understanding of jewelry and theindustry in general, his long-term commitmentto excellence, sound business ethics and therich tradition of artistic excellence combinedwith a modern twist, ensures that the family-runbusiness will enjoy continued success.Picchiotti’s sophisticated and distinctive jewelryis created entirely in-house and GiuseppePicchiotti himself oversees every aspect of thedesign and production process, and yet spendsmuch of his time searching the world for therare stones which highlight his collections.Often, his travels result in the discovery ofstones of such incredible size, beauty anduniqueness that they become the inspirationfor his signature pieces. He is above all aconnoisseur of colored gemstones – whichfeature as a highly recognizable trademark inthe Picchiotti collections.

12 l Basel 2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

Picchiotti needs little or no introduction. Founded in1967 by Giuseppe Picchiotti in Valenza, Italy, today thejeweler from the ‘City of Gold’ is renowned worldwide.

The latest addition to the vast Royal Star Collection is thisbeautiful parure of a necklace and earrings. In 18 caratwhite gold, the central stars are enhanced by a cluster ofbuff-top square rubies, surrounded by white diamonds andoutlined by a fine line of black rhodium. An innovative, elegantand sophisticated design.

CIJ09Basel CoverStory:CIJ Trends Spotllight 10.03.09 17:12 Page2

COUTURE International Jeweler l Basel 2009 l 13

New challengesWith the current challenging economicalenvironment in mind and an evolution inconsumers’ needs and tastes, Picchiotti hasbeen gradually introducing new lines inspired bymodern concepts and vibrant fashions thatblend together to give an enduring style withwhat is clearly a distinctive motif. These collec-tions include inventive designs and settings thathave been conceived to be worn as an‘everyday’ accessory. However, every piece ofjewelry that emerges from the workshops stillreflects the high standards of quality and crafts-manship associated with Picchiotti and isaccompanied by a certificate of authenticity. Inaddition, each and every piece in the exclusivecollections is stamped with the ‘Picchiotti’signature mark. This seal is the purchaser’sassurance that the jewelry is a genuine creationby Picchiotti.Picchiotti’s jewelry is favored by the fashionconscious, well-dressed, sophisticated woman,one who does not like to show off, but whoappreciates the beauty of these finely designedand treasured pieces of jewelry and is verymuch aware of the fine craftsmanship behindPicchiotti creations.

2009 Collection HighlightsTo further enhance the unique elements of itssignature pieces, Picchiotti has made extensiveuse of one of the rarest and purest metals to befound on earth: platinum.Picchiotti’s signature pieces feature importantdiamond, emerald and sapphire necklaces,earrings and rings enhanced by platinum thatgive a classic, yet contemporary look.These collections are designed as a showcasefor the different cuts of the precious stoneschosen by Picchiotti: exquisite and unique soli-taires as rare and eternal as the platinum inwhich they are set. The jewelry is simple yetunique, modern but still classic, in short, agenuine reflection of contemporary femininity.

A very refined and elegant brooch, the Feather, is theexpression of Picchiotti’s talent in reproducing the complexbeauty found in nature and giving it life as a piece of jewelry. Ofa sinuous and elegant shape, this 18 carat white gold broochfeatures sparkling white diamonds and an elegant, thin line ofbuff-top baguette sapphires.

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C14 l Basel 2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

What recession?Based on the spring collections from the giants of the jewelry world, the consensus is clear: No matter how unpredictably the economy behaves, luxury goes on.

BBulgariChances are good that even the casual observer, if asked to characterize the jewelry made by Bulgari, would describe it as bold,colorful and utterly recognizable. The firm, founded in Rome by aGreek immigrant named Sotirios Voulgaris, celebrates its 125thanniversary this year, cementing its place among the pantheon of20th century jewelers. The occasion has prompted a return to thestyles that made the house famous: namely, a series of haute joailleriepieces, including this cabochon aquamarine and ruby ring, thatcombine the finest stones with a bigger-than-life approach to design.

CartierCartier’s new Trinity collection, an updated version of an iconicmotif in which bands of pink, white and yellow gold are intertwined,makes evident the mystical power of threes. You might say thebands represent friendship, love and fidelity; past, present andfuture; or simply a distinct brand of French elegance. But one thingis certain: Whether it’s the Trinity XXL bracelet, entirely paved with126 carats of diamonds; a coiled sautoir; or the Trinity Crash ringshown here, good tidings come in threes.

G L O B A L L U X U R Y

Katel Riou © Cartier 2009

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CChopardChopard debuted the Happy Diamond line in 1976 as a tuxedowatch for men but over the past three decades, it’s become closelylinked to the brand’s jewelry. Featuring free-floating diamondssandwiched between thin slices of bezel-set crystal, the collectionwelcomes yet another variation into its midst with this spring’slaunch of the Teddy Bear pendant in 18-karat rose gold. Set withthree mobile diamonds, the pendant also comes in a mini version,conveniently just in time for Mother’s Day.

DDe BeersWith the Diamond Trading Co. focusing its marketing message onthe notion of owning “fewer, better things,” it makes sense that itsretail progeny, De Beers, is back to promoting the classics. Simplestuds, bridal basics and straightforward solitaires, as in this selectionof single-stone pendants, will be front and center throughout thecompany’s global network of retail stores this spring, proving thatwhen times get tough, the tough embrace that which is timeless.

ChanelCoco Chanel preferred the camellia to the rose — “for its sobriety,its almost geometrical roundness and the classical arrangement ofits perfectly regular petals” — so it’s no surprise that the house shebuilt has made the white flower its emblem. Paired with one ofMademoiselle’s timeless little black dresses and glistening withdiamonds, the camellia, seen here in the Fil de Camelia bracelet, isa seductive flower, indeed.


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DiorThat Dior Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane is one of the mostextravagant personalities in Paris goes without saying. Simply look ather jewels. The former costume designer and descendant of Frencharistocracy creates ornate, gem-set pieces — including this CarnivoraDevorus ring from Dior’s new collection of garden-inspired confec-tions, in yellow gold with diamonds, tsavorite garnets, sapphires,Paraíba tourmalines and lacquer — that never fail to capture hermotto: “It’s not because it’s real that it has to be boring.”

H. SternGiverny, the village in northern France where Claude Monet kept hisgarden, his lilies and his home, lends its name to H. Stern’s newcollection of rose gold leaf-shaped pendants and rings dusted withbeige diamonds. The Brazilian jeweler is sticking to a favorite theme —the colors, textures and elements found in nature — but has decidedthat a global brand needs a global approach to style, promising thatmore collections inspired by the world’s gardens are to follow.

MikimotoNot long ago, baroque pearls were seen as sub-par, mis-shapenlumps of pearlescence, valued, sure, though not nearly as highly astheir round counterparts. The design renaissance of the 21st centuryhas squelched that belief and has instead elevated the baroquepearl from reject to rarefied. Witness the new Baroque Couturecollection from Mikimoto, whose one-of-a-kind jewels, like thisdiamond-accented pendant, prove that the distinctive shapeof the baroque pearl is by far its most charming attribute.


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Tiffany & Co.Tiffany & Co. dug into its archives to develop its new KeysCollection of pendants and charms evoking a time of keepsakeboxes, diaries, steamer trunks and country manors, all the whilechanneling the jeweler’s great legacy. Designs of vintage skeletonkeys are rendered in medallion or heart shapes, decorated withflowers or diamonds, and suspended from fine 18-karat gold, platinum or silver chains. Designed to be worn alone or layered, thekeys, in Tiffany’s expert hands, are nothing less than talismans.

Van Cleef & ArpelsThe art of gardening is the ultimate expression of man’s desire totame nature, but each culture approaches the task differently. TheFrench garden is a masterpiece of spatial geometry, while the classicEnglish version is overflowing and unruly. The Italians emphasizenature’s relationship to architecture. In the Orient, harmony, balanceand tranquility are key. At Van Cleef & Arpels, the new Les Jardinscollection offers a glorious tour of this sublime garden universe, withjewels, like these Pavillon d’Or sapphire and diamond earrings fromthe Orient series, that speak to the enchanting power of Eden.

PiagetPiaget celebrates life on the high seas with its new Limelight Paradisecollection, a clever take on the yachting lifestyle. From the coral-inspired diamond pendant at left to a bracelet strung with whimsicalcharms such as an 82-carat citrine cut to resemble a pineapple, toa series of cocktail rings that take their mandate all too literally (onering, called “Sex on the Beach,” features a pink tourmaline centerstone accented by a peridot lime), Piaget offers a vicarious escapeto the tropics, even, or perhaps especially, for the deskbound.



C O U T U R E S P O T L I G H T

Green is a paradox. Signifying nature and money tosome, poison and envy to others, it’s a color that haslong projected contradictory images. In this, our first

ever green-themed issue, we attempt to settle the score. It’s easy to defend green when you see the trend and color

pages that follow. They pay homage to jewelry in gorgeousshades of green — grass green, mint green, lime green, and,of course, emerald green — as well as to multihued jewels thatrely on green as the cohesive force keeping all the othercolors together (not unlike Mother Nature herself). We’ve also included jewelry celebrating green as a philos-

ophy, a concept and a way of life, be it through its use ofrecycled materials, its glorification of botanical forms or itsrendering of animals, from butterflies to frogs. Ultimately, we’dlike to explore the best ways in which to fuse a concern forthe earth’s resources with our industry’s legendary attentionto beauty because soon enough it will be unseemly, if notimpossible, to segregate the two.Green may indeed be the new black but let’s be clear: Our

love for the old black (not to mention the old white, blue,orange and yellow, the colors most in vogue this season) hasnot wavered. In that spirit, we kick off with a collection ofstatement necklaces that look good no matter the color.

When it comes to color palettes,Mother Nature knows best

The greenyears


CIJ09Basel Spot Intro v3:CIJ Basel Spotllight 11.03.09 13:28 Page2


1. Necklace in 18-karat gold with carved turquoise bead and turquoise, and ebony and bluezircon pendant clasp by Katy Briscoe, Houston 2. Bochic abalone shell, diamond and rasp-berry tourmaline necklace on Marisa Tomei at the 13th Annual Art Directors Guild Awards,Beverly Hills, Calif. 3. Necklace in 18-karat gold with green tourmaline by Yvel, Jerusalem 4. Venus necklace with silk cord, shells, corals, pink gold and rubies by Fabio Salini, Rome

5. Soleil necklace in 18-karat gold by Calgaro, Vicenza, Italy 6. TeaTime one-of-a-kind necklace in 18-karat gold with cabochon-cut

rose quartz, topaz, aquamarine, turquoise, citrine, amethystand sapphire by Tous, Barcelona 7. Necklace in 24-karat and 14-karat rose gold with Jasper cabochonsby Devta Doolan, Devta Doolan Jewelry, Portland,Maine, for the 2009 AGTA Spectrum Awards8. Disc bib necklace in 18-karat gold by DML forGold Expressions, Vicenza, Italy 9. Dancing

Elephant tiger’s eye necklace from the Wild Thingscollection in fine silver and 22-karat gold vermeil by JJ

Singh Jewelry, Washington, D.C.

The Necklace Affair

Who cares about the dress whenbold and beautiful collars are the

mark of a true fashionista?

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Blumer GmbH Manufacturer of fine jewellery Luisenstraße 60 75172 Pforzheim Germany Tel.: +49(0)7231-1383- 0 Fax: +49(0)7231-1383-290 E-Mail: [email protected] Internet: www.blumer.de

E M O T I O N SI N F I N E J E W E L L E R Y

B E A U T Y I S C R E A T E D B Y

E M O T I O N S .I T C O M E S O U T O F T H E H E A R T

A N D S H I N E S B R I G H T L I K E T H E

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1. Large teardrop ring in 22-karat gold with emerald and rosecut diamonds by NancyChapman, Houston 2. Cuff and ring in 22-karat yellow gold by Amrapali on Camilla Belleat the 12th Annual Hollywood Film Festival’s Award Gala Show, Beverly Hills, Calif. 3. Archi ring in platinum with rectangular-cut chrome green tourmaline and diamondmelee by Tanagro, New York 4. Triple-strand emerald necklace in 18-karat gold byMia Katrin for Jewel Couture LLC, Fleetwood, N.C. 5. Samoan earringsin sterling silver and black rhodium with resin by Angelique de Paris,Allentown, Penn. 6. Heart Breaker pendant in 18-karat white and rose goldwith diamonds and tsavorites by Sartoro, Bangkok 7. Lucky AnimalsGrenouille ring in 18-karat gold with peridot by Mathon Paris, Paris8. Earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with green amethyst and diamondsby Al Coro, Cologne, Germany 9. Degustateur ring from Arte-Facto collection in 18-karat gold with emeralds and diamondsby Isabel & Canseco, Oviedo, Spain 10. Fancy yellowishgreen diamond ring in 18-karat white gold with diamondmelee by Nice Diamonds, New York.

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On the MoneyThere’s no going wrong with jewelry

that evokes both nature and thebounty of riches it bestows

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11. Duo ring in 18-karat gold with emeralds by Yael Sonia, NewYork 12. Huge apple green early 20th century vase available through41 Main Antiques and Collectibles at Vintage & Modern, Inc.(VandM), New York 13. Earrings in 18-karat gold with tsavoritesand diamonds by Atelier Minyon, Ankara 14. Biodegradablecanvas tote with recycled leather and 18-karat gold plated chain andleather handles by CC Skye, Los Angeles 15. Huge ring in 18-karatyellow gold with chrysophrase and diamonds by Boaz Kashi, TelAviv 16. Capri Plus necklace in black rhodium plated gold withchrysoprase by Roberto Coin, Vicenza, Italy 17. Two ring in 18-karat white gold with hand-carved green jadeite trimmed with cognacdiamonds by tête-à-tête limited, Bangkok 18. Precious Beadsmixed aqua necklace in 18-karat gold with champagne citrine jewelbead clasp by David Yurman, New York 19. Dolce & GabbanaStone sunglasses at Ilori, Cincinnati, Ohio 20. Bracelet in pink goldwith brilliants and prasiolite by Casato, Rome 21. Opal greenhandbag by Shana London, London.

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1. Apple blue floral handbag by Shana London, London 2. Paisley Lace pendant in 18-karatwhite gold with natural green and white diamonds by Sethi Couture, San Francisco 3. DayLily earrings in 18-karat gold with plique a jour transparent enamels, garnet centers and garnetgrape drops by Leila Tai Jewelry Design, New York 4. Leaf earrings in 18-karat whitegold with graduated pink sapphires, tsavorites and diamonds by Sartoro, Bangkok 5. Glacéebracelet in matte sterling silver by Tous, Barcelona 6. Three-Finger U ring in high-karat goldwith granulation, oxidized silver and purple spinels by Patricia Tschetter, Dallas 7. Dionearings in white and yellow gold with white diamonds and sapphires by Io Sì, Valenza, Italy 8. Zorab rubellite tourmaline flower ring in rose gold with diamonds on Scarlett Johanssonat the premiere of her film “He’s Just Not That Into You,” Los Angeles 9. Wilton House neck-lace in 18-karat gold with emeralds, pink and white diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris.

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Eternal BloomsUnlike fresh flowers, the jeweled

variety make up in longevity what they lack in scent

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10. Iris rings in 18-karat gold with diamonds,sapphires, garnets and tsvaorites by PaoloPiovan, Padua, Italy 11. Primavera Coloreceramic tile by Bardelli, Milan 12. DaisyChain necklace in 18-karat rose, white andyellow gold with pink, blue and yellowsapphires by Janet Deleuse, SanFrancisco 13. One-of-a-kind necklace withantique 17th century Satsuma vignettes(porcelain-like material hand-painted withenamel) framed in pure 24-karat gold byGurhan, New York 14. Flower ring in 18-karat yellow gold with pear-shaped reddishbrown opaque natural fancy color diamondsand white melee by RahaminovDiamonds, Los Angeles 15. Art Nouveauearrings in 18-karat yellow gold with brilliant-cut diamonds and fired enamel byMasriera, Barcelona 16. Kimi shoes withluxury kimono fabric by Hetty Rose, Milan17. Botanicals Orchid brooches in sterlingsilver with enamel and CZ by Angelique deParis, Allentown, Pa. 18. Florada Orchidearrings in 18-karat yellow gold by CarlaAmorim, São Paulo, Brazil 19. CoutureCollection Fleur d’Amour rings in 18-karatwhite and rose gold with Tahitian and SouthSea cultured pearls, diamonds and/orsapphires by Schoeffel, Stuttgart, Germany.

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Eden’sBouquet

Mimicking nature, these technicolor jewels use

green as their glue

1. Bijou de Création pendant in white gold with pink tourmaline, peridotand diamonds by Gay Frères, Annemasse, France 2. Kiss Me-LoveMe earrings in white gold with rock crystal, agate, amethyst, coral anddiamonds by Suzanne Syz, Geneva 3. Kaleidoscope X2 ring in plat-inum with crystal surrounding diamonds, amethysts, aquamarines, fireopals, topaz, citrines, garnets and tourmalines by J.W. Currens, NewYork, for the 2009 AGTA Spectrum Awards 4. Pop crystalhandbag by Shana London, London 5. Earrings in 18-karat goldwith opal drops, tourmaline and peridot by Paula Crevoshay,Albuquerque, N.M. 6. Tricot bracelet in 18-karat gold with Tahitainpearls, emeralds and white diamonds by Utopia, Milan 7. LuckyAnimals turtle ring in 18-karat white gold with opal, diamonds andcolored stones by Mathon Paris, Paris 8. Baroque necklace in 22-karat gold with pink tourmaline, aquamarine, peridot and golden berylby Anabelle, Palm Desert, Calif. 9. Mulitcolor pendant in pink goldwith diamonds and colored stones by Ninetto Terzano, Valenza,Italy 10. Jaipur necklace in yellow gold with prism-cut colored stonesby Marco Bicego, Trissino, Italy.

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11. Vine bracelet in 18-karat gold with tsavorites, amethysts, rubies,diamonds and moonstones by Paula Crevoshay, Albuquerque,N.M. 12. Platinum earrings with pink tourmalines, teal blue greentourmaline briolettes and diamonds by Ricardo Basta forPGI, Los Angeles 13. Colibrì Mosaic by Sicis, Milan 14. Boulder opal and emerald ring in 18-karat gold by JaneTaylor, Amherst, Mass. 15. Cufflinks in 22-karat and 18-karatgold with bi-color watermelon tourmaline slices by Jack Bigio,Basser & Bigio LLC, New York, for the 2009 AGTA Spectrum Awards16. Pod bracelets in reclaimed silver with various semiprecious stones byNina Basharova, New York 17. Dim Sum rings with lemon quartz and citrine ongold-plated silver with hand-knotted green jade silk by tête-à-tête limited, Bangkok18. Croco cuffs and ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Hellmuth on Rihanna atthe Clive Davis Pre-Grammy Party, Los Angeles 19. Nymphéa ring in 18-karat gold withtsavorites, pink sapphires and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris.

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1. White Bakelite bangle with diamonds, rubies and pearl lions in 14-karat gold and silver by Bochic, New York 2. Rose-cut diamondearrings and matching bracelet by Amrapali on Freida Pinto at the14th Annual VH1 Critics’ Choice Awards, Santa Monica, Calif. 3. White agate and gold ring by Idalia.com, New York 4. Chainbracelet in 18-karat gold with pearls by Schofer, Pforzheim, Germany5. Flagship Collection platinum bracelet with rose gold fleur de lis setin white pearlescent enamel, accented with diamonds by Beaudry,Los Angeles 6. African Scent necklace in pink gold with warthog teethand leopard pattern pavé-set brown, black and white diamonds byFabio Salini, Rome 7. Chic Chic earrings in white gold with pearlsand diamonds by Stefan Hafner, Valenza, Italy 8. Moonstone ringin platinum with diamonds by Stephen Russell for PGI, New York9. Plastic white handbag by Shana London, London.

MoonstruckGreat whites abound in

this season’s dreamy selection of jewels

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1. Sara pendant in 18-karat black gold with diamonds by Cresber, Córdoba, Spain 2. Platinumand diamond cuff bracelet from the 1940s and platinum bracelet from the 1930s, both byFred Leighton, on Liv Tyler at the 2008 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume InstituteAnnual Gala, New York 3. Diamond and onyx ring in 18-karat gold by Davite & Delucchi,Valenza, Italy 4. Cuba Libre earrings in 18-karat gold with diamonds and black quartz byCarla Amorim, São Paulo, Brazil 5. Black Flowers tile by Viva, Sassuolo, Italy 6. Sandalsby Gianvito Rossi, Milan 7. Juliet Flower ring in 18-karat white gold with black onyx anddiamonds by Rhonda Faber Green, Los Angeles 8. Jacaranda Pod earrings in 18-karatgold with diamonds by Sarah Graham, San Francisco 9. Hematite and diamond cufflinksin white gold by Deakin & Francis, Birmingham, England 10. Pure Pyramid diamondbracelet in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and onyx by JJ Number 8 Jewelry,Orange County, Calif.

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Fade to BlackBlack is back with a vengeance,

which begs the question: Did it ever leave?


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1. Concerto bracelet in white gold with sapphires by Roberto Coin,Vicenza, Italy 2. Twinkle Twinkle Gem Drop earrings in 18-karat gold withaquamarine by Jane Taylor, Amherst, Mass. 3. Ring in 18-karat yellowgold with a chalcedony cabochon, turquoise cabochons and diamonds byErica Courtney, Los Angeles, for the 2009 AGTA Spectrum Awards4. Byzantine turquoise ring in 24-karat gold by Doris Panos, New York5. Samarcanda bracelet in white gold with enamel, diamonds, bluesapphires and blue chalcedony by La Nouvelle Bague, Florence, Italy6. Chopard diamond bracelet and earrings on Kate Winslet at theSAG Awards, Hollywood, Calif. 7. Blue and white Korean or Chineseceramic Dragon vase available through Vintage Views Consignment andConsulting at Vintage & Modern, Inc. (VandM), New York 8. Angel handbag with blue and white Swarovski crystals by ShanaLondon, London 9. Nuage de Palekh ring in 18-karat gold withdiamonds and blue lacquer by Marchak, Paris 10. Double strandturquoise drop necklace by Nancey Chapman, Houston.

Stuck on BlueFrom topaz to turquoise,

some stones are guaranteedto make a lasting impression


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1. Precious Bead flat-faceted lemon citrine necklace with 18-karat gold sculptedcable disks by David Yurman, New York 2. Champagne Bubbles earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with 27.76 carats of natural rough diamonds and micro pavédiamond accents by Diamond in the Rough on Alicia Keys at the Vanity FairAcademy Awards Party, Los Angeles 3. Ring in 22-karat gold and sterling silverwith orange sapphire and gold granulation leaves by Patricia Tschetter, Dallas4. Mid-century table lamps by Vintage and Modern Inc. (V&M), New York5. Undivided Holiness brooch in 18-karat gold, silver, copper and bronze withyellow and black treated diamonds by Yehuda Kassif, Tel Aviv 6. Sunburstbrooch and pendant in 18-karat white and yellow gold with mandarin garnet anddiamonds by Tamir, New York 7. Dreamcatcher earrings in 18-karat gold withcitrine by Io Sì, Valenza, Italy 8. Harvest Angel butterfly pendant from BeyondColor collection in 18-karat gold with rose quartz, pink tourmaline, rhodolite garnetand moonstone by Paula Crevoshay, Albuquerque, N.M. 9. Marlena yellowhandbag by Liz Lange for Essentials Brands, New York. 10. Ring in 18-karat gold with cognac quartz and diamonds by Brüner, São Paulo, Brazil.

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Let the sunshine in with a jewel in one of the year’s hot new hues

Agent Orange&

Yellow Fever

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1. Lacquered Chinese cabinet by Vintage & Modern, Inc.(VandM), New York 2. Enlightened unique ebony cuff with Swarovskigems by Christine J. Brandt, New York 3. Necklace in 18-karatgold with wood and diamonds by Brüner, São Paulo 4. Wood neck-lace in 18-karat yellow gold and walnut wood by Tous, Barcelona 5. Sunday in the Jungle Running Zebra bracelet in ebony wood and18-karat gold with micro mosaic natural color stones by MayaJewels, New York 6. Sheaok wood earrings in rose gold with facetedsalmon colored tourmaline by Scheffel Schmuck, Munich, Germany7. Antler armchair in the Continental style available through NinaGriscom at Vintage & Modern, Inc. (VandM), New York 8. Amaranth wood ring in red gold with amethyst by ScheffelSchmuck, Munich, Germany 9. Sunday in the Jungle butterflyperfume pendant in 18-karat gold with a carved tiger shell butterfly anda purple heart wood bottle with ebony wood and diamonds by MayaJewels, New York 10. Sunglasses in sapele pommele wood byiWood ecodesign, Louisville, Ky.

Rhapsody in Wood

Jewelry fashioned fromexotic woods is the epitome of eco-chic

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1. Adam & Eve gold aqua handbag by Shana London, London 2. Chameleon brooch in 18-karat gold with colored stones by Palmiero,Valenza, Italy 3. Frogs in gold with brilliants and precious stones by Pieriz,Naples, Italy 4. Vintage platinum and 75-carat diamond cuff bracelet byFred Leighton on Sarah Jessica Parker at the world premiere of herfilm “Sex and the City,” London 5. Frog brooch in 18-karat white and yellowgold with opals, moonstones and pink sapphires by Gregore Morin, GregoreJoailliers, Santa Barbara, Calif., for the 2009 AGTA Spectrum Awards6. Papillon brooch in black and white enamel on yellow gold byCommelin, Paris 7. Butterfly brooch in platinum with natural colordiamonds by Amgad, New York 8. Dreaming in Color one-of-a-kindbutterfly ring in 18-karat white gold with uncut rose colored diamonds and

pavé diamonds by Michael M, Los Angeles 9. Brooch in white goldwith diamonds and emeralds by Andreoli, Valenza, Italy 10. TribalEnergy pin in silver by Celegato Jewels, Vicenza, Italy.

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Still LifeWhether they fly, crawl orjump, critters that glitter

are whimsical works of art

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>> Victoria Gomelsky

Civic style URTH brand jewelry, including the pieces on this page designed by StephenWebster and the leaf pendants on the opposite page by Pippa Small, uses “ethical gold”sourced from communities – including the one pictured at left in Tipuani, Bolivia – that areexpected to meet the firm’s fundamental values or agree to conform to them. In return, theyreceive a portion of profits to improve their quality of life and mining practices. Ruff&Cut, aNew York-based jeweler that uses diamonds mined in Sierra Leone, takes a similar approach,channeling its profits to local organizations such as the Muddy Lotus Primary School.

C limate change is almost what the bomb was when I was a kid inthe ’50s,” Simon Doonan, creative director of Barneys New York,says when he walks onto the stage for the final presentation of

the 10th annual New York Fashion Conference. This year’s theme?“Green: Sustainability, Significance and Style.”Launching into a hilarious anecdote about his youth in Great Britain,

Doonan brings three days of panel discussions about weighty issues ofecological and social import to a spirited, if irreverent, close. The gath-ering has covered everything from the scourge of “dirty gold” to thefuture of green fashion, and while the messages have been meaningful,the energy in the room has, as with any extended event, gradually beensapped from the room.Doonan does his best to enliven the audience. In recalling his initial

resistance to decorating Barneys’ windows with an earth-friendly greentheme for the 2007 holiday season, he cuts right to the chase:“Let’s face it — it can be a bit earnest at times,” Doonan says, referring to

the by-now obligatory need for companies to tout their green credentials. “We added some style, humor and a bit of glamour in there,” he

continues, describing his own cheeky approach to the theme: windowspopulated by elves clad in recycled Metro cards and a “Rudolph theRecycling Reindeer” display made entirely of recycled aluminum cans.“You don’t have to be earnest and super-crunchy. That’s the vibe I gotfrom people on the street. They were grateful that we’d married thosetwo concepts.”By poking fun at the clichés of the green movement while simultane-

ously honoring it, Doonan makes a strong case for luxury goods that areat once stylish and socially responsible. The high-end jewelry industry has had a similar awakening. Over the

past three to five years, the selection of high-ticket jewelry described aseither green, sustainable, ethical, fair trade, fair made, charitable, cause-based or “conscient luxury” has increased exponentially. The degree ofgreen chatter in the jewelry business, famous for its conservatism andinsularity, is today so great that it’s become abundantly clear even theold-timers have embraced the zeitgeist.

Style and sIn the world of fine jewelry, doing good and looking g


SPECIAL REPORT ETHICAL JEWELRY

Tipuani com

munity photo provided by Urth Solutions

CIJ09Basel SR v2:CIJ SR 10.03.09 19:22 Page2


But what does being “green” truly mean in a business that lacks ashared understanding of fair trade, not to mention an officially sanc-tioned third-party process to certify its products as such? One way tounderstand the movement is by looking at it as the industry’s collectiveeffort to develop smarter, more efficient and sustainable practices tosource and produce its goods. And one case to study, in particular, is thatof Tiffany & Co., the iconic American retailer that has, in many respects,set the tone for how the luxury jewelry business addresses its commit-ment to social and environmental responsibility.“I’m not about to tell you we’ve painted the blue box green, but sustain-

ability is good business,” Michael Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO,says at the outset of the Green conference. “We sell objects that matter,things that last: the very antithesis of excess. We owe it to our customersand to the earth itself.”The company’s initiation into the realm of corporate responsibility

came in 1995, years before the movement came into vogue, when itopposed the development of the New World Gold Mine outside ofYellowstone National Park, a project Kowalski described as “a reputa-tional disaster in waiting.”Then came the conflict diamonds crisis, a period of time in the late

1990s when stones mined in African war zones were sold to financeongoing conflicts. It was a high-profile publicity nightmare, not exclusiveto Tiffany but damaging all the same. “We were unprepared,” Kowalskisays. “However, to the industry’s credit, there was quick mobilization. Webecame strong and vocal advocates for the Kimberley Process, and theresult has been an effective control system.”In 2001, Tiffany’s refusal to be implicated in other consumer confi-

dence-threatening issues led it “to move beyond industrywide structureand take control of our own supply chain,” Kowalski says. Not only did the firm create its own diamond unit, Laurelton Diamonds,

it also advised vendors that it would be scrutinizing their sourcingmethods. By 2004, Tiffany had discontinued the sale of two preciousresources: Burmese rubies, banned by the U.S. government because ofhuman rights abuses in that country, and coral, whose conservation envi-ronmentalists say is critical to protecting the health of the oceans.Aided by the four-year-old Council for Responsible Jewellery

Practices, a worldwide diamond and gold jewelry supply chain initiativeof which Tiffany was a founding member, the company has also tackledthe issue of “dirty gold,” a term for gold mined through practices thatwreck the environment.

sensibility g good don’t have to be mutually exclusive

Muddy Lotus Primary School photo provided by Ruff&Cut




According to the nonprofit No Dirty Gold, founded in 2004 by humanrights groups Oxfam America and Earthworks, the production of onegold ring generates up to 20 tons of waste, including toxic cyanide andmercury runoff. In the most egregious cases, gold mining also destroyslandscapes and displaces communities, impacting mostly indigenouspeoples in countries such as Ghana, Indonesia and Peru.While a company the size of Tiffany is expected — and can afford — to

be a model of corporate righteousness (by sourcing the majority of itsgold and silver from a single U.S. mine that upholds its considerablestandards), scores of smaller jewelers have turned to recycled orreclaimed gold to assure their customers that they, too, haveconfronted the industry’s inconvenient truths.“When I saw the No Dirty Gold Web site, I was shocked by

how much devastation there is in metals mining,” says TobyPomeroy, a boutique designer based in Oregon. “I thought, ‘I can’t doit, I can’t contribute to this kind of destruction.’ ”In 2005, Pomeroy asked Hoover & Strong, the largest metals refiner

in the United States, if they would set aside their scrap gold and silverfor him to recycle. Since that encounter, interest in the company’sreclaimed metals program has spawned a brand of its own: HarmonyMetals and Gems, which consists of 100 percent recycled preciousmetals paired with conflict-free diamonds and fair trade gemstones. For Pomeroy, it all boils down to a single point: “How can we bring

ethics to an industry that has operated without accountability?”

Company benefits The Medallion bracelet by Tracy Matthews Design, Star earrings byRuff&Cut, Boulder Cluster ring by Todd Reed and Large Lotus ring by Oria for Ruff&Cut alluse diamonds provided by Ruff&Cut, as part of its effort to promote “socially responsibleluxury.” Transparency and beneficiation, or the re-investment of profits in the communitieswhere the diamonds are sourced (such as the one the Sierra Leonean diggers in the photoabove call home) is at the core of the company’s philosophy.

Photo provided by Ruff&Cut


SPECIAL REPORTTOPIC


FPO Caption The Navaratna, or ninegemstone, turtle brooch at left pays homage to a

traditional Hindu belief that the world rests atop theback of an elephant which stands atop a turtle. The nine

gems that decorate the shell are fashioned in an astrologi-

The good news is that thanks to the jewelry trade’s newfound environ-mentalist zeal, that question no longer prompts an uncomfortable silence.Not everyone, however, agrees on the best approach. Take Urth Solution,for example. The Beverly Hills, Calif.-based company’s URTH brandjewels, a chic selection of designer pieces made by the likes of PippaSmall and Stephen Webster, are made from gold mined by artisanal andsmall-scale miners in Bolivia and Madagascar. In exchange for their gold,Urth pledges to ensure “a fair price while providing much neededresources, skills, education and technology through programs funded bythe sale of URTH products.”“We have an independent minerals and sustainability expert to

develop a set of standards with a more attainable entry point basedon the values of our company: dignity, peace, development, commu-nity, ecology, family, health and justice,” co-founder Meyghan Hill says.“So, for example, we will purchase from a community that mines usingmercury if, through our reinvestment program funded by the profits ofURTH jewelry, they will participate in a mercury management andreduction course.”Urth’s marketing materials, which describe the business as a “marriage

of luxury and altruism,” reflect a sensibility that has only recently becomeif not quite commonplace then certainly not unique in the trade. Anotherexample of the effort to help consumers effect change with their jewelrypurchases comes by way of Ruff&Cut, a two-year-old jewelry companybased in New York specializing in rough diamonds sourced from SierraLeone, the country most ravaged by blood diamonds. “Our goal is to create an invisible cord that ties the land and the people

who bear the stones to those who wear them with singular conscience— a spiritual cat’s cradle, if you like, of beauty & rawness, of source &provenance, and of purity & distinction, all draw-stringed together,” statesthe company’s core philosophy.To that end, explains founder and CEO Wade Watson, Ruff&Cut sells

not only its own brand of jewelry featuring Sierra Leonean diamonds butalso pieces designed by Todd Reed, Me&Ro and Tracy Matthews. On theWeb site, concerned customers will find explicit remarks about where thematerials have been sourced and how much money from their sale will

go to nonprofit partners.Watson is operating on the conviction that even, or perhaps

especially, in a down market, jewelry that promotes lofty idealsgives consumers an extra incentive to buy. Yet given the dismal

realities of the marketplace, he and his fellow activist jewelers areequal parts sanguine and concerned about their prospects.“As a whole, I don’t really think the industry gets it yet,” Watson says.

“In the end it will be driven by the consumer and their desire to make theworld a better place.” �

Old gold Oregon goldsmith Toby Pomeroy had an epiphany in 2005, when he learned aboutthe No Dirty Gold campaign, formed a year prior to put an end to irresponsible gold miningpractices that wreak havoc on the environment and devastate communities. Consequently,Pomeroy began using what he calls “eco-gold,” referring to metal that’s been recycled orreclaimed, as in this pendant and cuff bracelet.



One of the many things that struck designer EricaCourtney on her trip to Tanzania last summer was thelocal Maasai tradition of wearing red and blue together.In the bright sunlight, they looked violet, much like the colorof tanzanite, the gemstone discovered there in 1967.“Of course they have worn these colors long before tanzanite

was discovered, but it’s as if the Maasai were telling us that thetanzanite was in the earth by the way they dress,” Courtney says. “I thought that wasvery poetic in a way, since the tanzanite find has given them so much opportunity:money, schools, roads, jobs, tourists buying their wares.” Courtney saw those opportunities first-hand thanks to her collaboration with the

Tanzanite Foundation, the nonprofit organization dedicated to the protection and promo-tion of tanzanite. Upon her return to Los Angeles in September, Courtney arranged for 10percent of the proceeds from the month’s sales at her Robertson Boulevard retail storeto go to the Community Uplift Program, set up by the foundation to help sustain medicalclinics, community centers and educational programs in the area where tanzanite is mined. “I personally have plans on financially helping two schools and visiting every year to

spend time with them,” Courtney says. “My heart has been absolutely stolen!” �

Blue streak Erica Courtney’s 18-karatgold, diamond and tanzanite earrings and Tanzanite Aurora necklace with pink sapphires were the product of her part-nership with the Tanzanite Foundation.

A few years ago, jewelry designer Lori Bonn attended a luncheon inSan Francisco to raise money for the indigenous people living in theAmazon rainforest. At the end of the fundraiser, the hostess madean announcement: The entire event, she said, had been stagedwith a net-zero impact on the planet, thanks to a clever approach to carbon offsetting.“It was an epiphany for me because, until then, I couldn’t find anything green that

wasn’t also ‘granola,’” Bonn said, recalling the gathering as ultra-sophisticated, in starkcontrast to the “crunchy” aesthetic she had previously associated with green activism. “Itdidn’t occur to me that you could be stylish and socially responsible at the same time.”Although the Oakland, Calif.-based designer had always endeavored to ensure her

jewelry, most of it produced in Bali, was manufactured under progressivestandards, the luncheon proved to be a turning point. She nowpromotes her collections, including the Chrysalis line of recycled silverand speckled chalcedony jewels, under the “Clear Conscience” label,an umbrella term meant to convey that her jewels “tread lightly on theplanet while respecting every person along the supply chain.” �

Lori Bonn


All clear Lori Bonn’s Chrysalis collec-tion, including this Kaleidoscope cuffbracelet with smoky quartz, citrine andwhite quartz and Round Dot ring withpolka dot chalcedony, is designed to beworn with a “clear conscience.”

Erica Courtney


These four jewelers have made social responsibility a cornerstone of their work

Cause and effect

CIJ09Basel SR Sidebar v2:CIJ SR 10.03.09 19:37 Page2

Motorized rickshaws, mopeds, hand-drawn carts and cowsdominate the relentless traffic on Jaipur’s dusty M.I. Road,except for the block that houses the esteemed Gem Palace,

where tour buses are a conspicuous and everyday presence. The retail store—a Jaipur institution since 1852, when the

maharaja who ruled the city, capital of India’s Rajasthan province,appointed the Kasliwal family crown jewelers—conjures images ofsuch fabulousness among visitors that it is now a regular stop on thetourist circuit, like the pink-honeycombed Palace of the Winds andhilltop Amber Fort. Credit goes to eighth-generation Munnu Kasliwal,the creative genius behind Gem Palace’s treasure trove, and his

brothers, Sudhir and Sanjay, who manage the retail and wholesale ends of the businessalong with their cousins, Ajay and Pappu Kasliwal. Even the ninth generation is repre-sented, in the form of Munnu’s son, Siddharth, who recently joined the business. Underthe family’s careful stewardship, Gem Palace earns as much respect from contemporaryjewel-lovers as it did under the maharajas’ patronage.“It’s the mother lode,” confirms a well-groomed American woman, cooing over a pair of

carnelian earrings and matching ring on a sunny December afternoon. She’s a mediabuyer from Maryland on a two-week holiday with her husband in Rajasthan. A visit toGem Palace and hilltop Amber Fort. Credit goes to eighth-generation Munnu

FPO deck here, the artisans of Gem Palacehave created

FPO Caption Jaipur is called the “Pink City” because of the pink stucco walls that surround its careful-ly planned old quarter, built by ruler Jai Singh in 1727. The Hawa Mahal, or Palace of the Winds, top left,is one of its enduring icons. Lying just outside the old city, on traffic-choked M.I. Road, Gem Palace is aretail store-cum-tourist magnet, regularly besieged by jewelry lovers who have come to see designer FPO

Jaipur photos by Victoria Gomelsky

The kingsThe kings>>

SPECIAL REPORTTOPIC

COUTURE International Jeweler l Basel

2009 l 3

When her younger sister passed away unexpectedly in 2005,Monique Péan, then a banker with Goldman Sachs, turned to jewelryas a form of therapy. Today, the company she founded in her sister’smemory is at the forefront of a growing movement to helpconsumers effect change with their purchases.“The whole idea behind my collection was to combine my love for art, business and

philanthropy,” Péan says. “My father worked in development growing up, so I had the priv-ilege of traveling to over 40 countries. And I felt indigenous art and culture is so rich, butit had never been at the forefront of the luxury market.”The fall 2007 Bering collection, featuring smooth shards of fossilized walrus, caribouand wooly mammoth ivory sourced from the Alaskan Inupiaq and Yup’ik tribes living inthe Arctic Circle and set in 100 percent recycled gold, was the product of her freshmaneffort. Ten percent of proceeds are directed to the Alaska House, a gallery in Fairbanksdedicated to preserving and promoting Alaska native arts.Péan’s second collection, called Charity Water after the New York nonprofit of the

same name, features chunky stones designed to evoke clean or contaminated drinkingwater, thereby drawing attention to the 1.1 billion people who live without access to safedrinking water. Each sale provides clean drinking water to 10 people for 20 years. �

Ruff love Todd Reed prefers raw diamonds because they have a less processed aesthetic that’s morein line with his eco-friendly lifestyle. This necklace is made with 18-karat recycled gold and silver; rawdiamond cubes, macles, octahedrons; natural color rose-cut diamonds; and white rose-cut diamonds, whilethe cuff bracelet features 18-karat yellow gold, silver, raw diamond cubes and colored brilliants.

Monique Péan

Todd Reed began experimenting with raw diamonds in the early1990s, long before the idea of “socially responsible jewelry” enteredthe trade’s lexicon. Fast forward 15 years, and not only have rawdiamonds become Reed’s much-admired (and much-mimicked)trademark, the industry has finally come around to the idea ofsourcing responsibly. That, however, doesn’t mean the Boulder,Colo.-based designer is doing things differently.

“I always called it ‘right relationship,’ which means doing things for the right reasonsregardless of the outcome,” Reed says. “It’s always something my customers caredabout, my style — and I don’t mean my aesthetic style but my social style, my civic style.”It helps that Reed has worked with a single diamond supplier for 12 years, a sixth-

generation family business in New York that buys rough from eco-friendly locations andcan trace its sources. Last year, he partnered with Ruff&Cut, the New York company thatbuilds designer jewelry collections around diamonds mined in Sierra Leone, channelinga portion of profits to community organizations based there. It’s a far cry from Reed’searly days, when the language to define these ideas didn’t exist, but, as they say, betterlate than never. “Maybe this is the time in jewelry when change happens,” he says. �

Sure things Every element in Monique Péan’s collection has been ethically sourced. From top, this hemi-morphite and recycled yellow gold necklace includes 4 carats of “conflict- and devastation-free diamonds” on a sustainably gathered stingray cord while the Mzibia agate necklace features fossilized woolly mammothivory set in 18-karat recycled yellow gold with a conflict- and devastation-free diamond clasp.

Todd Reed

CIJ09Basel SR Sidebar v2:CIJ SR 10.03.09 19:38 Page3

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TASTEMAKERSNICOLE MACKINLAY HAHN

Imagine picking up an Ethiopian silk purse at the trendiest luxury boutiquein town and focusing not on the purse but on a 30-second video showingthe Malagasy man who helped make its raw silk, as he chases his friend

around their village, waving a silkworm on a stick.“I want people to be more emotionally attached to where their things

come from,” says Nicole Mackinlay Hahn, a video artist whose Reap WhatYou Sew project goes a long way in establishing such a connection.Using documentary-style footage shot in Africa and then distilled into an

interactive video piece called Mirror/Africa (which includes the silkworm clipdescribed above), Reap What You Sew offers a fascinating glimpse intothe supply chain that connects African communities to the American

consumers who buy the fashions they produce.Mackinlay Hahn, an accomplished video artist,launched the project in 2005, when the Edunclothing company took her to Lesotho to shootfootage they hoped to use in “an advocacy videoto tell their brand story.” “It was my weird initiation into fashion,” Mackinlay

Hahn recalls. “I could not believe how many peopletouched one garment of clothing.”The trip marked the beginning of her love affair

with the continent. She has since returned fivetimes. On those trips, she traced more designergoods back through the supply chain — includingfashion from Duro Olowu, beauty productsfrom Philip B and jewelry by Devon PaigeMcCleary — making sure that at least some oftheir components were sourced or producedin Africa. Mackinlay Hahn then created hundreds of

30-second video clips that play through an interactive and transparentdomelike sculpture that she installed as a temporary public art project atBarneys New York in May 2008 and hopes to bring to additional retailvenues this year. When consumers pick up one of the items she tracked, aspecial bamboo tag prompts them to scan it at the nearby installation.Depending on where the item originated or was produced, they see clips ofMadagascar, Kenya, Lesotho, Mali, Uganda, Tunisia, Ghana or South Africa.

The poetry behind the purchaseUsing her lyrical style of video art, Nicole MackinlayHahn puts an original spin on conscious consumerism

Mackinlay Hahn says she was driven tocreate the project — and the feature-lengthdocumentary film it inspired, due to premierein 2010 — after recognizing she could harnessthe Web’s interactive and touch-screen tech-nology to convey information “way beyond[what could be contained in] the tag.”She stresses that her work isn’t intended

to preach but to delight, inspire and cele-brate. More poetic than information-driven,the videos suggest that “you still need enter-tainment value in order to get an emotionalreaction in a transactional environment.”One sign that she has succeeded appears

in a clip that could end up in the documentary,which Mackinlay Hahn has structured aroundthe experiences of consumers using theinstallation. A middle-aged Barneys shopperis shown watching one of the videos. “I like toknow that my consumerism isn’t hurtingsomeone else,” says the woman, making ReapWhat You Sew’s point, exactly. �

Mirror images Nicole Mackinlay Hahn’s crystal ball-like sculpture plays clips from Mirror/Africa, the video footage that lies at the heart of her ambitious Reap What You Sew project.It’s an interactive exploration of the supply chain linking communities in Africa, such as the one pictured at right, to the American consumers who buy the goods they produce.


Photo by James Ryang

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TASTEMAKERSTANIA MACHADO


Reduce, reuse, recycle The EcoArts collective promotes the work of Brazilian artisans whowork with different recycled materials. Márcio Ferreira, for example, uses scrap iron to make hissignature ants, while other artists work with glass, shown here in a delicate petal-like sculpture,or banana or coconut fibers, used to make decorative bowls.

Craft masterUnder Tania Machado’s stewardship, Brazilian artisansare bringing their eco-friendly designs to the world

Jewelers may know Minas Gerais as the Brazilian state where the bulkof the country’s precious stones are mined (the name, in fact, translatesto “General Mines”) but the region is also rich with talented artisans who

have taken advantage of local materials to produce a range of arts andcrafts distinguished by their respect for the earth. In 2001, Tania Machado recognized the need to promote these crafts —

mostly home décor items made from seeds, ceramic, glass, fiber, wood,paper, soapstone and ironwork — to an international audience, therebygenerating income for poor families while encouraging recycling and envi-ronmentalism. Thus, the EcoArts program was born. As an offshoot of a Brazilian nonprofit called Instituto Centro CAPE,

which helps prepare artisans to sell their work abroad, EcoArts representsa collective of eight artisans, whose products are sold bearing a seal — IQS,

or Sustainable Quality Institute — guaranteeing they are socially fair,ecologically correct and economically viable.“Today, the whole world is worried about the environment, and recy-

cling is well-respected by everyone,” says Machado, who is based inBelo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais. “But in the case that theimprovement of the economic situation of poor people is attached to theproduct’s good price, it’s even better.”Among the artisans in the EcoArts stable is Maria Diniz. She uses coffee

husks and grounds, rice husks and cardboard boxes to make decorativebowls. Leonardo Bueno makes furniture and household items by recyclingthe wood from shipping pallets, while Cristina Duarte recycles raw glass tofashion unique works of glass art.In 2007, the program to which they belong exported more than $2 million

of artistic handicrafts to the United States. (A similar program exists inEurope and is managed by a Lisbon-based company, Vitória Regia.)The Brazilian government has been instrumental in nurturing EcoArts,

whose existence is made possible through a collaboration between severalorganizations, including APEX, Brazil’s trade and investment promotionagency, and the Central Mão de Minas, a nonprofit aimed at helping arti-sans navigate the complicated world of exporting. Despite the economicdownturn, Machado is optimistic that EcoArts will continue to thrive.“We believe we have enormous growing potential,” she says. “There are 8.5

million artisans in Brazil. In the state of Minas Gerais there are 500,000, andonly about 300 are currently exporting products to the USA. But in order toproceed we must continue looking for buyers. It’s necessary to adapt prod-ucts, improve some of the technological processes for customs and tradebarriers, and continue showing the creative work of the Brazilian people.” �



TASTEMAKERSLILIANE JOSSUA

Avenue Montaigne, in the 8th arrondisement of Paris, is arguably theworld’s most illustrious shopping street. A mecca for high-fashiondevotees, it’s lined with grand facades bearing the names of pres-

tige brands with a global following: Valentino, Gucci, Chanel and Dior, toname but a few. So sought after are the goods on Avenue Montaigne that in December,

thieves stole diamond necklaces, gem-studded rings and luxury watchesworth $108 million from the Harry Winston salon in one of the most ambi-tious — and successful — heists in history.Yet the street’s monobrand domination can feel a bit monotonous. This

explains why the ultra-chic Montaigne Market, the street’s first multibrandemporium, has a distinct edge.Opened in 2005, the store boasts a high-low mix of designer merchan-

dise that calls to mind the well-edited closet of a very stylish friend. Thisseason’s new acquisitions include Elizabeth & James, the sophomorecollection from Ashley and Mary Kate Olsen; retro-fabulous designs fromHalston, the icon of 70s style; and the moody, phantasmagorical jewels ofFendi scion Delfina Delettrez. But these are merely the tip of the iceberg; co-founder Liliane Jossua has

excellent and varied taste, which comes through in the store’s assortedcollection of jewelry. Besides Delettrez, Aurélie Bidermann, Repossi, Garrard,and John Isaac, a vintage Rolex dealer, are among the collections on display.

A Parisian who studied fashion at Esmod inParis, Jossua moved to Saint Barth with herfamily 16 years ago. It was there that she cuther teeth at retail with her first store, Calypso. “When my oldest daughter was 10 we

decided to go back home to Paris and thenit was time to open something here,” sherecalls. “We thought Avenue Montaigne wasan amazing place for its history and wecould find there the same customer I wasused to working with in Saint Barth.”Montaigne Market’s white wall, lacquer,

and leather interior, designed by architectJohannes Zingerle, is the perfect showcasefor Jossua’s myriad finds. Supported by herbusiness partner, Alain Celhay, she makesall the buying decisions, gravitating todesigners such as Alaia, Givenchy,Alexander McQueen and Balmain. Ready-to-wear constitutes about 60 percent of thestore’s inventory; the rest is made up withaccessories, from Lanvin handbags toGianvito Rossi heels. “When you buy one of those it’s a clever

choice,” she says. “You will keep the clothesand wear them again next season mixedwith new ones. Time is not anymore tospend for eccentric and expensive thingsyou’ll wear once.” �

Fashion formula Liliane Jossua has perfected a buying strategy for Montaigne Market, thefirst multibrand boutique to open on Paris’s grand shopping street. Accessories, in the form ofcolorful Lanvin handbags, outrageous Brian Atwood platforms and très interesting jewels fromthe likes of Fendi scion Delfina Delettrez, make up 40 percent of the store’s merchandise. P

hoto provided by Montaigne Market

The girl from ParisIn 2005, Liliane Jossua set a precedent by opening thefirst multibrand retail shop on tony Avenue Montaigne


Royal engagementsPleasing princesses is jeweler Shahpour Jahan’s specialty

Bridal boom Shahpour Jahan, the seventh generation of the Jahan family business, has what many would consider the perfect plan to ride out this year’s economic turbulence: If the royal familes of the Persian Gulfwho make up his clientele continue to get married, “we are good,” he says.

DESIGNER ROUNDUPSHAHPOUR JAHAN


Not long ago, Shahpour Jahan, a jeweler based inGeneva, took an order from a young Saudi princesswho wanted a necklace “she could wear every day.”

A diamond-laden jewel anchored by a 9.5-carat fancy pinkpear-shaped stone is what he created for her.With clientele drawn from the royal families of the Persian

Gulf, the Jahan family business, a seventh-generation affairthat dates back to Tehran in the 1800s, has a different rela-tionship with its customers than do most jewelers.“A person has a doctor, a lawyer, and we consider ourselves

an advisor,” Shahpour, the company’s creative director, says.“We give them a service. We take their old jewelry that hasno value, and we update it.”When there is a major wedding, it’s not just the bride who

is expected to shine. Mothers and grandmothers are alsodraped in jewels and will often bring their old pieces intoone of the company’s three boutiques in Geneva, Riyadh orJeddah to get a fresh re-working. A Jahan design albumwith a collection of dull photos documenting these quintes-sentially 1980s jewels (so passé looking they might as wellbe in neon) is a testament to this. Shahpour then re-imag-ines the pieces, sometimes as stylish scarf necklaces or aslong cascades of stones.The emphasis, it’s clear, is on the latter. “The real value to

us as jewelers is in the stones,” Shahpour says. “Like land,antiques, paintings, the point is you have jewelry that will lookgood years from now. It’s not supposed to be like fashion.”From a floral collar of sapphire and diamond roses to the

suite of almond-sized Colombian emeralds about to be setinto a diamond and white gold parure, the classic jewels

that are Jahan’s bread and butter begin at 200,000 Swissfrancs (about $175,000 at current exchange rates) and topout around 2 million Swiss francs. Jahan’s singular commitment to providing a traditional,

albeit modernized, selection of jewels to customers whohave patronized the store for decades has placed it in agood position to ride out the current economic downturn.Based in Geneva since 1980, when Shahpour’s father beganusing Swiss workshops to manufacture the jewelry he soldin Iran, the company has a reputation for creating sumptuousparures of the highest quality.“Of course you feel it,” Shahpour says of the credit crunch.

“But high-level pieces like that always keep their value. Ifpeople are getting married, we are good.”In order to accommodate the gift-buying proliclivities of

clients who hail from the Gulf region, the company alsostocks a reasonably priced selection of glam watches andperfumes, all on display in the Geneva boutique.Situated in a prime location on the city’s famed Rue du

Rhône, the store opened in 1995 and was expanded andrenovated two years ago into a stylish black-and-whiteshowroom of 200 square meters. Neighbors include prac-tically every major luxury name in the watch and jewelrybusiness, but that doesn’t faze Shahpour.“We like that we have competitors,” he says. “When you

go into a garden, you don’t just want to see roses.” �

CIJ09Basel DR v2:CIJ Designer Roundup 10.03.09 20:27 Page2

Born in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh andraised in the suburbs of

New York City, designer ManjuJasty spent her childhood summerstouring Indian holy sites such asTirupati, where a famous golden idolenchanted her. After college, shepursued investment banking, until she

could no longer deny her fascination with gems and jewels,nor, perhaps, her destiny: Manju’s first name is derived fromthe Sanskrit word for “jewel box.”

Who: Manju Jasty Age: 33 Home base: New York CityWhat: Manju Jasty Fine Jewels Where to buy: BarneysNew York or by appointment at www.manjujasty.comPhilosophy: Wearing fine jewelry should be a physical

jewelry shops inSwitzerland, Paris,Monaco, Munich, Milan,Kiev, Dubai, Doha and JeddahPhilosophy: A passion for gems, life and women who knowwhat they want. My jewelry should be their favorite pieceand make them look different, happy and passionate aboutlife, at reasonable prices. Inspiration: Unusual stones andcuts, and traveling. I capture the colors, trends and peoplein different countries. Gemstone preferences: Stones witheffects, like star rubies, moonstones, black star diopside andquartz in all colors, cut in unusual shapes. Design epiphany:At a certain point, coinciding with my son Raphaël’s birthseven years ago, I felt a drive to create jewelry for everydaywear, for myself and for a passionate, trendy woman, and Istarted designing with semiprecious stones and pearls.

Dream clients: The ones who take the risk to promotea new name and stand behind me Breakthroughmoment:One year ago, I started to sell in Ukraineand the Middle East Training: I was a gemologistand gemstone dealer before launching my owncollections. Retail price range: $800–$50,000 �

pleasure as well as a source of joy. Inspiration: All thingsbeautiful, from the shapes of the Taj Mahal to the shape of a

calla lily. Gemstone preferences: Diamonds: a simpleand elegant statement, but a statement nonetheless.Design epiphany: When my mom gave me permis-sion to deconstruct a necklace and earrings I hadinherited and I realized I could refashion it into some-thing I would use and thoroughly enjoy wearing.Dream clients: Julianne Moore andCharlize Theron Breakthroughmoment: Meeting Julie Gilhart(fashion director of Barneys) theday I resigned from banking. I raninto her a few months later, at which

point she admired my earrings (of my owndesign) and suggested I schedule an appointmentwith her office. Training: Design is self-taught;construction I learned by working withartisans in India. Retail price range:$4,000–$150,000 �

Trained as a gemologist nearly twodecades ago, Elke Berr beganher designing career making

tried-and-true styles featuring preciousstones, such as rubies, sapphires andemeralds, in classic yet predictablesettings. “The value was given by thestone itself, while the design was notthe central interest of the jewel,” she

says. Fast-forward 20 years, and Berr’s work is anythingbut conventional. It includes a slew of precious andsemiprecious pieces in special cuts like thebubble-cut, mirror-cut, wave-cut and ice-cube cut.Read on to discover her creative turning point.

Who: Elke Fechner-Berr, Elke Berr Creations,Genève Age:44 Home base:Geneva, SwitzerlandWhat: Feminine, trendy jewelry with coloredgemstones in 18-karat gold Where to buy: Best

Mad about hue

The namesakeIf you believe in omens, former bankerManju Jasty is living her destiny

Elke Berr evolved as a designer whenshe succumbed to her love of color

Homage to India Manju Jasty’s Indian her-itage is reflected in these bell-shaped ear-rings and carved emerald necklace.

A heart for stones Seven years ago, gemologist Elke Berr begancreating designer pieces like this necklace strung with lemon quartzdrops and ring featuring a wave-cut smoky quartz. N

ecklace photographed by Rudy Lepoultier; ring photographed by Sarah Girard

DESIGNER ROUNDUPELKE BERR AND MANJU JASTY

CIJ09Basel DR v2:CIJ Designer Roundup 10.03.09 20:27 Page3

MARKETPLACEVICENZA

Veterans of the international trade fair circuit knowthere are two kinds of exhibitors at the First show,held every January, in Vicenza: Those who produce

eminently chic, if fleeting, fashion jewelry and those forwhom “made in Italy” is a battle cry for pieces that stand thetest of time.As business philosophies, they couldn’t be more different,

yet for the 1,700 companies that showcased their newestmerchandise at the goldsmith fair in mid-January, these twoapproaches represent flip sides of the same Italian coin.The first approach is, arguably, the one that defines Italian

merchandise in the greater context of the global jewelryscene, and the First fair is, naturally, where the trendiest ofsuch trendy merchandise makes its debut. This year, thepieces most in vogue included those featuring black andwhite gemstones in matte and polished forms, ornate bibnecklaces best suited to women with statuesque features(not to mention long necks), variations on the traditionaldiamond tennis bracelet using a mix of semipreciousstones and varying shapes, and a heavy dose of jewelsevoking feathers, animals and leaves.“Our industry is getting closer to the models and rhythms

of fashion and is observing that trends of fashion and stylemerge with trends in our own sector,” Domenico Girardi, the

Glam slam The entrance to the Vicenza fair’s new Glam Room, whichGeneral Director Domenico Girardi describes as “an independent pavilionwhere we celebrate the conjugation between fashion and jewelry.”

At the First fair in Vicenza, the Italians were split on whether the secretto their long-term success lies in promoting classic jewelry or fashion


Brave new world

Photo by LaPresse provided by Vicenza Fiera

fair’s new general director, said at a press conference. “Itwill be necessary to innovate more quickly, to speed up, andthe business models will be different.”Girardi’s fellow organizers are, it seems, in full agreement.

Witness the show’s new Glam Room, unveiled at the Choiceevent in September and enhanced for the 2009 gathering.The pavilion of 26 exhibitors is dedicated to jewels thatcombine precious materials with alternative elements, suchas wood, glass, ceramic, ebony, Perspex and steel. By 2010, noted Girardi, the Glam Room “will become an

independent pavilion where we celebrate the conjugationbetween fashion and jewelry.”Yet the notion of jewelry as accessory is at odds with the

way many of Vicenza’s finest exhibitors see their work.In discussing his company’s plans for Baselworld, for

example, Umberto Picchiotti, of the Valenza-based manu-facturer, said: “We will concentrate on more valuable piecesand won’t do as much fashion or design collections. Wenever did.”Likewise, Isaac Levy, founder of Yvel, the Israeli pearl

jewelry manufacturer, said he would focus his merchandise

CIJ09Basel MarPl Vicenza v2:CIJ MarPl 10.03.09 20:35 Page2

on higher-ticket items that requiredthe same amount of effort to sell aslower priced goods. He also notedthat his global marketing strategyhinged on finding “pockets of wealth”rather than conquering entirelynew markets — a reflection of howthoroughly globalized our world hasbecome: affluent consumers are invari-ably jet-setters, meaning their wealthis as mobile as their high-tech phones.“You cannot target a country today,”

Levy said. “You have to focus on a groupof people. For example, we don’t sell inBelgium, but we sold to a group of Belgians.We have a couple of wealthy people inKuwait and Dubai. It’s about targeting theright customer.”At the First fair, however, it was clear the

Italians were struggling to define, or evenrecognize, who that might be.“We’re still trying to understand what to do,”

said a woman at the Andreoli booth. “I thinkeverybody’s in crisis. We haven’t seen anyAmericans. The first day was noticeably quiet,and it’s supposed to be the strongest.”Export statistics tell an equally disheartening

story. According to figures released by Italy’sNational Statistics Institute, the value ofjewelry and gold exports for the first threequarters of 2008 fell by 5.54 percentcompared to the same period in 2007. “Thedata is linked to the strongly negativeperformance of the month of August(-71%), but partially balanced bythe good performance registeredin the month of September,”according to the Institute’s state-ment.One of the report’s bright spots

affirmed that the United ArabEmirates is now Italy’s chief export market,with a 16.4 percent share representing a14.56 percent increase from 2007 to 2008— numbers that squaredperfectly with sentiment on theshow floor.“Abu Dhabi,” Picchiotti said,

referring to the capital of the UAE, “seemsto be the next hot place.” �


While black was ubiquitousin Vicenza this year, theselection wasn’t as somberas you might think.

FFiirrsstt tthhiinnggss ffiirrsstt Clockwise from top: RobertaPorrati’s Ibiza ring with black diamonds and pearls;Marco Bicego’s resplendent Jaipur bib necklace;Palmiero’s graceful green Feather ring; PaoloPiovan’s seductive snake necklace; Picchiotti’swhite diamonds and buff-top baguette sapphiresfeather brooch; and Picchiotti’s classic emeraldearrings reflect the diversity of designs found atthe First fair in Vicenza. The big question? ShouldItalian jewelers focus on fashion jewelry, Italy’straditional strong suit, or timeless designs thattranscend fashion to ensure their success duringwhat promises to be a challenging year?

Neew Ittaaliaan ssttyylee

CIJ09Basel MarPl Vicenza v2:CIJ MarPl 10.03.09 20:35 Page3

New York City has no shortage of icons. There’s the Statue of Liberty, ofcourse, and the yellow taxicab, the Empire State Building and TimesSquare. One symbol that rarely gets its due, however, is the blue-and-white Greek paper coffee cup — the one emblazoned with the words“We Are Happy to Serve You” — used by diners and coffee vendorsacross the five boroughs.A number of enterprising designers who exhibit at the Couture show

have done much to change that. In the NY Couture Jewelry DesignerChallenge, held earlier this year at the JA New York show, they wereasked to transform the instantly recognizable cup into a unique pieceof wearable jewelry. They responded with a wealth of unconventionalstyles that were voted on by the Couture community and displayed atthe show, thereby elevating an unglamorous deli cup to its rightful placeamong the Big Apple’s more celebrated trademarks. Chad Allison designed the winning piece, a diamond and sapphire

pendant incorporating the cup’s distinctive Greek border motif into asubtle tribute to a vintage only-in-New-York aesthetic. The other jewelsalso reflected just a hint of coffee inspiration. One clever designer,however, took the mandate rather literally.“Use this and you don’t burn your fingers with the hot coffee,” said

runner-up Heather Moore of her gold coffee cup holder that transformsinto a bangle and armband. “When you’re done with your drink, put yourcup in the recycling bin, slip the pieces on your wrist and you’re stylin’for the day!”

I N F L U E N C E S

Hold the sugar New Yorkers love their coffee, so they’re sure to love these coffee-inspiredjewels. Clockwise from bottom: Chad Allison’s winning pendant features diamonds and bluesapphires in 18-karat white gold. Gurhan’s pendant is set in his trademark 24-karat gold.Heather Moore’s coffee cup holder/bangle (shown with and without coffee) is, withoutdoubt, the contest’s most clever submission, while Vibes’s pearl necklace, in a more subtleapproach to the design brief, includes a mere hint of the cup’s iconic motif.


Winning brewA quirky contest inspires designers to re-imagine anunglamorous deli cup as a coveted piece of jewelry

competitions

CIJ09Basel INF Coffee v2:CIJ INF A 10.03.09 20:40 Page2

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The luxury industry’s experience with the Internet shouldbe counted in dog years: For every seven years ofWeb-based progress in other fields, luxury providers

have inched along by just one. Look, for example, to the online jewelry market, and you’ll

find that for most of its lifespan it’s been the domain ofschlock merchants, con artists and loose stone dealerseager to dispense with the fripperies of romance in favor ofpromoting goods at bargain-basement prices.Just consider this quote from Jim Schultz, founder of

DirtCheapDiamonds.com, which appeared in an article inCOUTURE’s sister magazine, National Jeweler, seven yearsago: “DirtCheap is doing so well because we have a practicalattitude,” he said. “We don’t romance the stone. Because we’renot face-to-face with a customer talking about a stone, we’rejust looking at the facts. I think people appreciate our candor.”While it’s true that price — and, more meaningfully, value —

continues to be critical to the allure of buying luxury productsonline, the notion that e-tailers eschew story, tradition anda commitment to service has gone away as surely asFacebook has replaced Friendster in the social networkingsphere. These days, the Internet is, without doubt, home tothe jewelry industry’s most promising action.“[We’ve made] the empirical case directly from the voice

of the wealthy consumer for luxury brands to make theirWeb sites the centerpiece of their online and offline strate-gies since 2006,” says Milton Pedraza, CEO of the NewYork-based Luxury Institute. “Nevertheless, the traditionalluxury industry has been slow to adopt Web 2.0.”


The real deal Plenty of Web consumers are wary of shopping online dueto questions of authenticity. To battle the thriving online knock-off market,Portero.com carefully vets its products to guarantee their genuineness. AtIdalia.com, the focus is value: “Madison Avenue products” at online prices.

A fresh crop of sophisticated Web. 2.0 sites are courting the high end with renewed vigor

The term “Web 2.0” refers to changing trends in the useof Internet technology and design that strive to enhancecreativity, communications, secure information sharing,collaboration and functionality.Pedraza notes, “Innovators such as Gilt, Ideeli, A Small

World, Portero, Vivre, CoutureLab and several off-the-radarplayers such as Bespoke Global, are gaining traction onlinevia membership models, global communities, and by aggre-gating categories of bespoke luxury designers andproducers in one-stop-shop destinations.”This phenomenon is bound to grow. In light of the

faltering global economy, more old-school jewelry merchantsare adopting Internet-only policies, thereby ducking theenormous expenses associated with running brick-and-mortar operations.“We’ve got Madison Avenue products with the value only

an online store can offer,” says Pinny Kaufman, a New Yorkdiamond wholesaler who recently launched Idalia.com, aluxury fashion jewelry site aimed at female self-purchasers.“I don’t feel anyone’s targeting this niche. The industry stan-dards are mall-type Web sites.”For guidance, Kaufman studied the Web’s luxury visionaries,

Net-a-Porter and Vivre, two sites that established, early on,reputations for expertly curating collections of high-enddesigner goods, from fashion to accessories to home décor

COUTURE PRACTICESONLINE LUXURY

Online luxury, reconsidered

CIJ09Basel CP Online v2:CIJ CP 10.03.09 20:47 Page2

items, that appealed to discerning shoppers preciselybecause they fused the experience of browsing a luxuryprint catalog with the Web’s user-friendly technologies.“The two together blend to form a potent mix that’s hard

to resist,” wrote The Luxe Chronicles in a February 2008blog post praising both Net-a-Porter and Vivre. “I’ve oftencompared shopping on these sites to shopping directlyfrom the pages of your favorite print magazine, only better.”More recently, CoutureLab, a next-generation version of

Net-a-Porter (given that its owner, Carmen Busquets, wasone of the latter’s original backers), has charmed luxuryconsumers with its chic selection of one-of-a-kind andlimited-edition designer merchandise, sourced from aroundthe world. No small part of the two-year-old site’s appeal liesin its crisp photography, stylish layout and engaging content,like the bios describing each designer represented on thesite — including jewelers such as France’s Lydia Courteille,Spain’s Vicente Gracia and Kenya’s Carolyn Roumeguere.For purposes of Web site marketing and search engine

optimization (“SEO” in Web 2.0 lingo), the content quotientis key — a fact that Beladora, a two-year-old estate jewelrysite based in Beverly Hills and affiliated with estate dealerKazanjian Bros., has used to its advantage.“We’re creating content that makes our site useful and

helps the Google rankings,” says CEO Nancy Revy, addingthat a flexible approach to pricing (read: no triple-key markups)and reliable customer service are the site’s strong suits.“What’s amazing about this business is the amount of

trust you build up with people who have never heard ofyou,” Revy says. “How do you instill confidence online? Werespond to every e-mail and call within 24 hours. We areliterally a 24/7 shop.”


Tactical moves CoutureLab’s magazine-like approach to content hasmade it a hit among the fashion cognoscenti. For estate dealer Beladora, a commitment to answering calls and emails within 24 hours has helpedconvince shoppers that there truly is a person at the other end of the line.

At Portero.com, the secret to establishing customerloyalty is a fanatical devotion to authenticity. Launchedin 2004, the company was one of eBay’s largestsellers of pre-owned luxury timepieces and handbagsuntil its founders decided to create their own site in2007, in part to escape the suspicions that seemed totaint the online marketplace, said Stephanie Pfair, the

company’s outgoing vice president of merchandising.“For a long time, online was considered the breeding

ground for counterfeiting and the easiest way for counter-feiters to disseminate their product because it’s anonymousand accessible,” Pfair said. “Portero was created with the ideathere could be a legitimate secondary market for authenticluxury products online, giving customers all the benefits ofonline — price and value — without fearing counterfeits.”Even the Place Vendôme luxury brands are getting in on

the game. One-hundred-and-fifty-year-old Boucheron, forexample, recently announced that it was extending its e-commerce operations to the United States.“Because Boucheron has always underlined elegance with

a touch of audacity, it today turns toward investing in theInternet and the opening of a new online store,” CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos said. “The Web is a modern opportunity tobe present worldwide and an answer to Boucheron’s goal totake service to its clients one step further.”A clarion call to other luxury providers to unambiguously

embrace the Web’s possibilities? You bet.“Look for all types of traditional luxury goods and services

providers to begin to imitate the techniques of these luxuryinnovators, or to acquire them,” Pedraza predicts, referring tosites such as CoutureLab. He even goes so far as to toutthe nascent field of “m-commerce,” or transactions conductedvia mobile devices like iPhones and Blackberries, as thenext big development in luxury marketing. In other words: e-tailers, start your (search) engines. �

CIJ09Basel CP Online v2:CIJ CP 10.03.09 20:47 Page3

Managing Director Philippe Maillard

Editor-in-Chief Victoria Gomelsky • [email protected]

Contributing Editors Claire Adler, Ruth J. Katz, Randi Molofsky, Antonella Scorta, Melissa Shepherd, Nina Van Sant

Group Creative Director Michael StrongDesigner Sarah Edgar

Editorial Production Manager Stephen E. Weightman

Sales Manager/International/EMEACaitlin Hume • [email protected] • TEL +44.207.420.6150

Sales Manager/Italy Alessandra Arati • [email protected] • TEL +39.024.851.7853Sales Manager/Spain Carles Sapena, Grup Star Barcelona • [email protected]

Sales Manager/AsiaMaggie Tong • [email protected] • TEL +852. 9658.1830Sales Manager/IndiaBhupal Potdar • [email protected] • TEL +91.98211.51035

Advertising & Production ManagerLaurence Chatenoud • [email protected]

TEL +41.22.307.7843 • FAX +41.22.300.3748

Marketing Manager Nathalie Glattfelder • [email protected] Jocelyne Bailly • [email protected]

Subscriptions Subscriptions, address changes and single-copy requests: COUTURE International Jeweler, Rte des Acacias 25, CH-1227 Geneva, Switzerland

TEL +41.22.307.7837 • FAX +41 22.300.3748 • [email protected]

AccountingBusiness Manager Catherine Giloux • TEL +41 22.307.7848 • [email protected] Manager Alexandra Montandon • TEL +41 22.307.7847 • [email protected]

International Headquarters COUTURE International Jeweler, Rte des Acacias 25, PO Box 1355, CH-1211 Geneva 26, Switzerland

NIELSEN JEWELRY GROUP Group Vice President Bailey Beeken • [email protected]

Group Show Director, Couture Liz Hitchcock • [email protected] Publishing Director Chris Casey • [email protected]

Editorial Director Whitney Sielaff • [email protected] International Jeweler • Europa Star Watches • National Jeweler

JA New York • Couture 2008

Couturejeweler.com Group Brand ManagerClaude Hemmerich • [email protected]

Nielsen Retail Group Senior Vice President, Retail David LoechnerVice President, Digital Strategy John Lerner

Vice President, Manufacturing & Distribution Jennifer GregoVice President, Audience Marketing Joanne Wheatley Vice President, Marketing Services Drew DeSarle

President Greg FarrarSenior Vice President, Human Resources Michael Alicea

Senior Vice President, Marketing Mark HosbeinSenior Vice President, Finance Sloane Googin

Senior Vice President, Media & Entertainment Gerry ByrneSenior Vice President, Brand Media & Corporate Development Sabrina Crow

Senior Vice President, Retail David LoechnerSenior Vice President, Building & Design Joe Randall

Senior Vice President, Central Services Mary Kay SustekVice President, Licensing Howard Appelbaum

Vice President, Manufacturing & Distribution Jennifer GregoVice President, Audience Marketing Joanne Wheatley

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Salón Internacional de la Joyería,Platería, Relojería e Industrias AfinesInternational Jewellery, Silverware,Watch and Auxiliary Industries Exhibition

9-13SEPTIEMBRE/SEPTEMBER

2009

ORGANIZA / ORGANISED BY

LINEA IFEMA / IFEMA CALL CENTRE

LLAMADAS INTERNACIONALES (34) 91 722 30 00INTERNATIONAL CALLS

[email protected]

EXPOSITORES / EXHIBITORS 902 22 16 16

LLAMADAS DESDE ESPAÑA / CALLS FROM SPAININFOIFEMA 902 22 15 15

www.iberjoya.ifema.es

E D ITO R I A L & ADVE RT I S E R S I N D EX

AAl Coro, 22Alpilex, 43Amgad, 33Amrapali, 22Anabelle, 26Andreoli, 7, 9, 33, 49Angelique de Paris, 22, 25Atelier Minyon, 23BBardelli, 25Barneys, 34, 42BaselWorld, CIIIBasser & Bigio LLC, 27Blumer, 21Boaz Kashi, 23Bochic, 20Boucheron, 53Breuning, 11Brüner, 31, 32Bulgari, 14CCalgaro, 20Carla Amorim, 25, 29Cartier, 14Casato, 23CC Skye, 23Celegato Jewels, 33Chad Allison, 50Chanel, 15Chopard, 15, 30Christine J. Brandt, 32Commelin, 33Couture Show, 51, 56CoutureLab, 52-53Cresber, 29DDavid Yurman, 23, 31Davite & Delucchi, 4-5, 29De Beers, 15Deakin & Francis, 29Devta Doolan Jewelry, 20Diamond in the Rough, 31Dior, 16DML for GoldExpressions, 20Doris Panos, 30E, FEcoArts, 44Elke Berr, 47Erica Courtney, 30, 38Eurostar, 40-41Fabio Salini, 20Fred Leighton, 29, 33G, H, I

Gay Frères, 26Gianvito Rossi, 29Gregore Joailliers, 33Gurhan, 25, 50H. Stern, 16Heather Moore, 50Hellmuth, 27Hetty Rose, 25Hoover & Strong, 36Iberjoya, 55Idalia, 52Ilori, 23Io Sì, 24, 31Isabel & Canseco, 22iWood ecodesign, 32J, K, LJ.W. Currens, 26Jane Taylor, 27, 30Janet Deleuse, 25JJ Number 8 Jewelry, 29JJ Singh Jewelry, 20Katy Briscoe, 20La Nouvelle Bague, 1, 30Leila Tai Jewelry Design,24Liliane Jossua, 45Liz Hitchcock, 56Liz Lange for EssentialsBrands, 31Lori Bonn, 38Luxury Institute, 52M, NManju Jasty, 47Marchak, 30Marco Bicego, 26, 49Masriera, 25Mathon Paris, 22, 26Maya Jewels, 32Mia Katrin for JewelCouture LLC, 22Michael M, 33Mikimoto, 16Mirror/Africa, 42Monique Péan, 39Montaigne Market, 45Nancey Chapman, 22, 30Net-a-Porter, 52-53Nice Diamonds, 22Nicole Mackinlay Hahn, 42Nina Basharova, 27Ninetto Terzano, 26O, POria for Ruff&Cut, 36Palmiero, 2-3, 33Paolo Piovan, 25, 49

Patricia Tschetter, 24, 31Paula Crevoshay, 26-27, 31Piaget, 17Picchiotti, CI, 12-13, 48-49Pieriz, 33Pippa Small for URTH, 35Portero, 52-53RRahaminov Diamonds, 25Ramon, 18Rhonda Faber Green, 29Ricardo Basta for PGI, 27Roberta Porrati, 49Roberto Coin, 23, 30Ruff&Cut, 35, 36, 37SSarah Graham, 29Sartoro, 22, 24Scheffel Schmuck, 32Schoeffel, 25Sethi Couture, 24Shahpour Jahan, 46Shana London, 23, 24,26, 30, 33Sicis, 27Stefan Hafner, CIIStephen Webster forURTH, 34Suzanne Syz, 26T, UTamir, 31Tanagro, 22Tête-à-tête limited, 23, 27The Fifth Season, CIVTiffany & Co., 17, 35Toby Pomeroy, 36, 37Todd Reed for Ruff&Cut,36, 39Tous, 20, 24, 32Tracy Matthews Designfor Ruff&Cut, 36URTH, 34, 37Utopia, 26V, W, Y, ZVan Cleef & Arpels, 17,24, 27Vicenza Fiera, 48-49Vintage & Modern, Inc.,23, 30, 31, 32Viva, 29Vivre, 52-53Yael Sonia, 23Yehuda Kassif, 31Yvel, 20, 48-49Zorab, 24

CIJ09Basel Index:CIJ Mast 12.03.09 14:19 Page2

who have been loyal to the event since its inception. This year,Couture has attracted so many more top retailers that we’veintroduced the VIP program, which is the next top 300 retailers.

CIJ:Why was it important to do that? LH:What’s most attrac-tive about that next level of retailer is they’re actively seekingbrands and designers and are more open in terms of theirsourcing than perhaps the Cornerstone Retailers, who havelong-term relationships with the major brands. So this is usmaking sure we recognize and host them in a certain way.

CIJ: How will the design awards be handled? LH: This will bethe 14th year of the Couture Design Awards [popularly knownas the Town & Country Awards]. We’re expanding the program,enhancing the format, including celebrities and planning a greatevening of entertainment. We’re hoping to add a few morecategories and sponsors. They’ll be bigger and better than ever.

CIJ: You’ve talked about bringing more international retailersto the show. How are you reaching out to them? LH:We havea lot of internal Nielsen resources that we’re tapping into. We’velaunched five international Web sites in the past seven months,all in the specific language of the markets they serve: Brazil,Latin America, China, Russia and India. We have the widestglobal reach of any other business-to-business company in thejewelry industry, bar none.

CIJ: Do you expect Couture to evolve into an internationalevent that happens to be in America, or will the focus alwaysbe on its roots here? LH: The focus of the retailers will alwaysbe toward the Americas. But we’ve always enjoyed interna-tional attendance because Las Vegas is fun, the Wynn is aworld-class venue and we promote worldwide. We’d like tocontinue to grow the international participation of fine jewelryand watches. If you’re the exclusive carrier of a designer knownin luxury circles, that’s something that differentiates you andgives people a reason to buy from you. Our hope is to give ourretailers a better opportunity to find those brands.

COUTURE International Jeweler, for those who haven’t readthe fine print, is the official publication of the Couture show, theannual gathering of jewelry’s crème de la crème at the Wynn inLas Vegas during market week. The six-day event, beginningthis year on May 28, has reigned as the single best networkingopportunity for the American high-end jewelry communitysince 1994, when the Couture Jewellery Collection &Conference, as it was then known, made its debut in Californiabefore moving to Arizona. The show’s relocation to Las Vegasin 2005 ushered in a period of change. This year, Group ShowDirector Liz Hitchcock, new to Nielsen, Couture’s parentcompany, promises another dynamic event, including a greaterfocus on international exhibitors, a new take on the show’spopular design competition and an expanded retailer program.

COUTURE International Jeweler: Can you give us a littleback story on Couture? Liz Hitchcock: It began as an eventwhere North American retailers would meet and greet andnetwork. As it grew with the popularity of U.S. designers, itbecame world-renowned. Because of the year’s turbulence,we’ve received a great deal of attention from the internationalcommunity, which thinks that no other event around the worldwill have the same concentration of high-level designers.

CIJ: How will this year’s show be different from years past? LH: We’ve expanded our retailer program. It’s always beencatered to the “Cornerstone Retailers,” the top 100 retailers

One stop shop Couture is known for putting a cross-section of the world’sfinest designers under one roof. For more info, visit www.couture09.com.

FREELY SPEAKINGLIZ HITCHCOCK

Show director Liz Hitchcock is giving the Americas’premier jewelry event a subtle makeover

Couture redux


CIJ09Basel FS v2:CIJ Freely Speaking 10.03.09 20:52 Page2

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