Good to S eI~ to BtjJ) to Eat Social Discours(

between Meat Vendors and Consumers

Marie-Lorraine Pipes Ph D Candidate Department of nthropolog SUNY Buffalo mlpipesbuffaloedu

Keywords Ethnoarchaeologl faun al remains meat food scares consumption practices butchers

Abstract In 2006 tlle autllor traveled ro East Anglia UK ro conduct an ethnoarchaeological study on

factors inf1uencing consumer behavior The main objectives were ro investigate how meat

consumption is inf1uenced by food scares and other health concerns and how meat vendors and

consumers negotiate what is good ro sell and eat This study was prompted by the authors work on

urban archaeological sites where changes in consumption patterns were observed in late eighteenth

to early twentieth century urban household deposits lvlear vendors target specific segments of the

market Price and income while key facror s in determining meat consumption are not necessarily

correlated The effect of food scares on consumers was found ro be temporary while lasting effects

included dietary issues like obesity high cholesterol and consumption of fatty meats Changes in

social and economic landscapes local class tensions and a general malaise about Stalliams future

were also important facrors in decision making practices for most of the people interviewed for thi s

stud v

Resume En 2006 iallteur a vl)age d East Anglia Engleterre de prodder d tine ettlde ethnoarcMologiqtle stir les

actfllrs infillenfant Ie comportement des COnfotllll1atellrs us pnlIcipatlX objectifs etaient dettldier la fafon dont la

consoll1l11ation de viande est infllencee par de crises et d alltres problemes de sante et COllJment les fottrnisseurs de

t~ande et les conSOlI I11atellS 1fgocient ce qlli est bort pOilr vendre et mangel Cette etude a ete motivee par Ie travail de

iautell1 Sllr les sites arcMologiqles ell miliell IIIvain oli les changements dans les IJabittdes de consol1lJ1atioll ont eli

observees d 10 jin dll XVIIle all debllt du XXe sierle Vendetm de viande aMent des segments specifiqtles dll

march Prix et relJel1JlS tandis que les factmrs des dalls la determination de 10 CO 1sommation de viande ne sont pas

necessairelllent conilis Leffet de Clises oiimentaires StIr les C017SOlllmatetirs a eli ylgee temporaire pendant me dude

affecte ont fte cOlcernes par les questions allmentaires COJJ7lJ1e lobesili )percholesterole771ie et la COlJsollJl1ation de

IJiandes grasses Changements dollS les pqpages sociallx et ecol7ollJiques les tensions de casse IOCallX et 1111 malaise

general sllr lavenir de StabaJl1 etaien egaeme1t des factemS importants dallS les pratiques de prise de decision pOllr

la plllp071 des persollnes illterrogees pOllr cette etNde

=f Vol (2) 64

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Introduction

In 2006 the author received a grant from

the East Anglia Research Staaon (EARS) - a

training program within the anthropology

department of the State University on New

York at Buffalo- to c ond uct an

ethnoarchaeological study focu sed on social

factors influencing the purcha se a nd

consumption of animal fo ods in Statham

Norfolk England Stalham is a small town

located about 15 miles east of Norwich and

about 3 miles from the North sea As an historic

archaeologist specializing in the analysis of

faunal remains the author was interes ted in how

dle consumer and vendor decide which meat

products are good and sa fe to ea t An

e thnoarch aeo logica l study pr ovi d es an

opportuni ty to observe phenomena occurring in

dle present and to relate dlem to events in the

past The original goal was to investigate how

social discourse between consumers and vendors

determines beef consumption patterns and the

effects of food scares like Bovine spongi form

encephalopathy (BSE) BSE also known as Ivrad

Cow Disease is a fatal degeneraamiddote disease

affecang the brain and spinal column of cattle

that is harmful to humans Once in the field it

was clear dlat the objec tive of the study needed

broadening to include concerns of personal

health and the sani tation of meat products and

meat products expanded to include all mea ts and

poultry

This study reveals that social issues

influence not only consumption practices but

also vendor practices The range of foods

offered in the market th ere fore refle ct s

consumer preferences the causes of which are

PIPES Good to Sell

bes t understood when written records are

available Archaeological evidence revealing

diachro nic change in the range o f mea ts

consumed and synchro nic variability in mea t

cuts in contemporary neighborhood deposits

may have resulted from complex social issues

beyond agricultural suategies Buying better

qualitv mea ts may have been a means o f creating

soc ial di s tanc e duri ng a rime when

neighborhoods h ad not yet b ecome

econo mically and socially segrega ted H owever

o ther social forces may have been partly

responsible for the overall decline in va riabili ty

which may have caused vendors to realign mea t

products based on overlapping mula-ethnic

religious and cultural consumer practices

An example of this can be found in the

quick development o f urban areas in the

Americas In New York City and o ther majo r

ciaes along the eastern seaboard neighborhood

butchers sprang up during the eighteenth

century and are assumed to have served people

living in their neighborhoods Like modern

butchers these shops selec ted mea ts from

slaughterhouses based on what they knew they

could sell their clien tele (pipes 2009)a clientele

who inNew York Cin and large urban centers

usually had he terogeneous populations of mixed

racial ethnic and national idenaaes (Yamin

2000) as seen in city direc tories Comparing

fau nal remains recovered from urban backyards

often reveals differences in price and quality

which are determined by identifying mea t curs

and tying them to socioeconomic rank values

based on historical documents indicating relative

COSt (Ubaldi and Grossman 1987 Schultz and

G ust 1983) These are interpreted as signs of

differing socioeconomic statu s (pipes 2013)

65 -ELI( f 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

These methods reveal that by the first quarter of

the nineteenth century the range of meat

products and poultry recoyered on urban sites

dropped significantly (Rothschild 1990Yamin

2000) The decline in variety is thought to be

tied to farming scrategies developed 10 support

of urban areas

The importance of such stuclies is clear

food is a fundamental human necessitmiddot In

market eco nomies foods are bought by

consumers and sold in shops and markets The range of foods offered for sale represents a

limited selection based on yariable decisions

made by vendors and consumers (Ubalcli and

Grossman 1987) The range of mea ts vendo rs

sell is based on knowledge about the

socioeconomic buying habits of local

consumers Consumers base their purchases on

economic factors like price and quality as well as

health and sanitation concerns The selection of

foods bough t and sold results form a negotiated agreement between vendor and consumer about

foods fit for consumption (Frewer e t al 2011) In

England this cliscourse is complicated by State

and European Union regulations on meat

products resulting from cases of BSE and otller animal cliseases (FSA 2004 2007 Hutter and

Amodu 2008 RP 2009)

These regulations reflect a growing global

concern wi th the sa nit at ion of foods

Urba nization capitali s m and growi ng

population densities place a heavy reliance upon

the market economy to provision tlle public and

an expectation that foods will be sanitary (Entec

2003) National and loca l gove rnments

implement policies to concrol and mitigate issues

of food sanitation and con tamination In the

past twO decades emerging epidemiological

problems have affected poultry and meat

industries in many countries (Heath 2006a

2006b Iltitziner and Reilly 1997) Some cliseases

pose a risk of infection to humans such as the

West Nile virus Some affect the health of

li-estock including svine flu in pigs and foot

and mouth clisease in cattle Other diseases affect

the healtll of humans through the consumption

of infected flesh such as BSE in beef In England legal restrictions nmv 1) concro1 how

animals are raised and slaughtered 2) limit the kinds of meats sold and 3) require labeling

point of origin (FSA 2007 Hutter and Amodu

2008 RPA 2009) The compliance cost has a

minimal effect on large businesses but has driven

smaller pro-iders out of business (Broke 2003 Entec 2003 Heath 2006a ECORYS 2011

Pearson 2004) Due to BSE cuts of meat cannot

contain bone from the spinal column beef cattle

must be slaughtered by 30 months and dairy

cattle and older animals must be incinerated

(FSA 2007 Hutter and Amodu 2008 RPi 2009

Tulip and Michaels 2004) Public perceptions of

food sa fet and commercial responses to BSE

and other cliseases have resulted in an active

cliscourse between consumers and meat vendors

influenced by the meclia (Iltitzinger and Reilly

1997 Frewer et al 2011) Articles appearing in

the Eastern Daily Press inclicate severe economic

impacts on Norfolk meat vendors and farmers

due to new regulations (Broke 2003 Starling 2006a 2006b Heath 2006a 2006b)

A 2004 nation-vide survey conducted by

the Food Standards Agenc revealed some

interesting statistics (FSA 2004) The study

found that betveen 2000 and 2003 there was a

significant decline in consumer concern with

BSE In 2000 slXty-one percent of consumers

-ED Vol (2) 66

PIPES Good 10 Sell

interviewed said ther were concerned about the consumer (Tulip and Michaels 2004) Poultry disease as compared with 2003 when only farmers were hard hit because of avian flu

forty-two percen t expressed concern Issues of (Heath 2006a 2006b) Any suspicion o f flu now

personal hea lth were actually more in1portant to results in the destruction of entire flocks at great

consumers In 2003 fifty-three percent were fll1 ancial and emotional cOSt to the farmer

concerned with the fat content of the foods they (Heath 2006b) Everyone interviewed for this

eat Fifty percent of the people interviewed were project including consumers and vendors spoke

concerned vith salt intake levels and forty-seven about the need for traceability of meat products

percent were worried about sugar content Xiith the exception of twO individuals

Women were found to be more likely concerned most of the people interviewed in this study about food issues downplayed the impact of food scares on their

Norfolk once one of the largest liestock diet Yet these same individuals stated that they

producing areas in E ngland has been in1pacted changed their meat buying practices somewhat

by competition from abroad (ECOTRYS 2011) due [Q these issues by avoiding potentially

Infectious diseases became a se rious issue infec ted meats for a month or so after the scare

starting in the 1980s when some beef was found According to the Tesco and 11S meat managers to have BSE (EDP 2006e Hutter and Amodu interviewed for this study public concerns about

2008 Kitzinger and Reilly 1997) Some of the the negative effects of consuming animal fats

interviewees stated that the BSE scare did not due to their relationship vith high cholesterol

involve English beef They believe that the have also resulted in raising leaner animals and

tainted beef originated abroad H owever at the trimming off fat Public health articles focus on time the point of origin was no t tracked Animal childhood and adult obesity high cholesterol

diseases have impacted the mea t industry and the benefits o f low fat diets including

especially beef Initially the state controlled the replacing red meat with poultry and fish

beef industry imposing restrictions on the (Wintour June 2006 Chalabi 2013) This study

handling and processing of carcasses Now the found these issues to be foremost in the minds European Union has authority over the industry of local consumers

and has imposed its restrictions Interviewed

vendors and providers resent the imposition of Stalham East Anglia Norfolk

regulaoons wluch they feel are unnecessary

(S tarling 2006a) The restrictions on farmers Stall1am is loca ted in Norfolk about 16

have caused increa sed pro ducti o n cos ts n1iles east o f Norwich and three n1iles west o f

(ECORYS 2011 Tulip and ivlichaels 2004) Rural the North Se a Norfolk is call e d th e

slaughterhouses closed because of the costs breadbasket of England because of the

associated with the regulations (BBC News production of mea ts grains and potatoes

2001 Broke 2003 Tulip and NIichaels 2004) Stalham is one of many market towns known

Farmers now ship livestock ready for slaughter for their weekly open air markets located along

farther out resulting in higher prices for the the Broads (Collins 1990 Dymond 1990

67 Gf Vol 2 (2)

PIPES Goorlto Sell

Fincham 1976) The Broads National Park is a major landscape feature consisting of a series of

interconnected manmade lakes and livers very

popular with holiday boaters (Figure 1) DUling

the researchers stay in Stalham it was observed

that uansportation in the area is difficult due to the extensive area of the Broads as well as a lack

of major highway systems and adequate public

transportation During the 1950s the train

system was dismantled and replaced by a local

highway Consequently many towns experienced economic decline The area has an extensive bus

system but smaller towns have no service on

Sundays and limited service on Saturdamiddots Town

residents without access to cars cannot leave on

veekends Towns are connected by walking paths But the researcher was cautioned against

using them by host family members who said

personal attacks happened along the paths

Beginning in tl1e late twentieth centuIl

national supermarket chains have had a major impact on market towns like Stalham (Beckert

2011 E DP 2006b 2006c 2006d Entec 2003 Finch 2006 Friends of the Earth 2004 200S

Lovthorpe 2006 jIonbiot 2009 Moreton 20L

Pearson 2004 Tulip and Michaels 200-+

Locating major supermarkets in market ton

makes good economic sense since they are

stopover points for vacationers but they ae

subject to seasonal fluctuation s in revenue

Figure 1 Holida) boalm ill TlJe Broads l ational Park

68

PIPES Good 10 Sell

These methods reveal that by the first quarter of

the nineteenth century the range of meat

products and poultry recoyered on urban sites

dropped significantly (Rothschild 1990Yamin

2000) The decline in variety is thought to be

tied to farming scrategies developed 10 support

of urban areas

The importance of such stuclies is clear

food is a fundamental human necessitmiddot In

market eco nomies foods are bought by

consumers and sold in shops and markets The range of foods offered for sale represents a

limited selection based on yariable decisions

made by vendors and consumers (Ubalcli and

Grossman 1987) The range of mea ts vendo rs

sell is based on knowledge about the

socioeconomic buying habits of local

consumers Consumers base their purchases on

economic factors like price and quality as well as

health and sanitation concerns The selection of

foods bough t and sold results form a negotiated agreement between vendor and consumer about

foods fit for consumption (Frewer e t al 2011) In

England this cliscourse is complicated by State

and European Union regulations on meat

products resulting from cases of BSE and otller animal cliseases (FSA 2004 2007 Hutter and

Amodu 2008 RP 2009)

These regulations reflect a growing global

concern wi th the sa nit at ion of foods

Urba nization capitali s m and growi ng

population densities place a heavy reliance upon

the market economy to provision tlle public and

an expectation that foods will be sanitary (Entec

2003) National and loca l gove rnments

implement policies to concrol and mitigate issues

of food sanitation and con tamination In the

past twO decades emerging epidemiological

problems have affected poultry and meat

industries in many countries (Heath 2006a

2006b Iltitziner and Reilly 1997) Some cliseases

pose a risk of infection to humans such as the

West Nile virus Some affect the health of

li-estock including svine flu in pigs and foot

and mouth clisease in cattle Other diseases affect

the healtll of humans through the consumption

of infected flesh such as BSE in beef In England legal restrictions nmv 1) concro1 how

animals are raised and slaughtered 2) limit the kinds of meats sold and 3) require labeling

point of origin (FSA 2007 Hutter and Amodu

2008 RPA 2009) The compliance cost has a

minimal effect on large businesses but has driven

smaller pro-iders out of business (Broke 2003 Entec 2003 Heath 2006a ECORYS 2011

Pearson 2004) Due to BSE cuts of meat cannot

contain bone from the spinal column beef cattle

must be slaughtered by 30 months and dairy

cattle and older animals must be incinerated

(FSA 2007 Hutter and Amodu 2008 RPi 2009

Tulip and Michaels 2004) Public perceptions of

food sa fet and commercial responses to BSE

and other cliseases have resulted in an active

cliscourse between consumers and meat vendors

influenced by the meclia (Iltitzinger and Reilly

1997 Frewer et al 2011) Articles appearing in

the Eastern Daily Press inclicate severe economic

impacts on Norfolk meat vendors and farmers

due to new regulations (Broke 2003 Starling 2006a 2006b Heath 2006a 2006b)

A 2004 nation-vide survey conducted by

the Food Standards Agenc revealed some

interesting statistics (FSA 2004) The study

found that betveen 2000 and 2003 there was a

significant decline in consumer concern with

BSE In 2000 slXty-one percent of consumers

-ED Vol (2) 66

PIPES Good 10 Sell

interviewed said ther were concerned about the consumer (Tulip and Michaels 2004) Poultry disease as compared with 2003 when only farmers were hard hit because of avian flu

forty-two percen t expressed concern Issues of (Heath 2006a 2006b) Any suspicion o f flu now

personal hea lth were actually more in1portant to results in the destruction of entire flocks at great

consumers In 2003 fifty-three percent were fll1 ancial and emotional cOSt to the farmer

concerned with the fat content of the foods they (Heath 2006b) Everyone interviewed for this

eat Fifty percent of the people interviewed were project including consumers and vendors spoke

concerned vith salt intake levels and forty-seven about the need for traceability of meat products

percent were worried about sugar content Xiith the exception of twO individuals

Women were found to be more likely concerned most of the people interviewed in this study about food issues downplayed the impact of food scares on their

Norfolk once one of the largest liestock diet Yet these same individuals stated that they

producing areas in E ngland has been in1pacted changed their meat buying practices somewhat

by competition from abroad (ECOTRYS 2011) due [Q these issues by avoiding potentially

Infectious diseases became a se rious issue infec ted meats for a month or so after the scare

starting in the 1980s when some beef was found According to the Tesco and 11S meat managers to have BSE (EDP 2006e Hutter and Amodu interviewed for this study public concerns about

2008 Kitzinger and Reilly 1997) Some of the the negative effects of consuming animal fats

interviewees stated that the BSE scare did not due to their relationship vith high cholesterol

involve English beef They believe that the have also resulted in raising leaner animals and

tainted beef originated abroad H owever at the trimming off fat Public health articles focus on time the point of origin was no t tracked Animal childhood and adult obesity high cholesterol

diseases have impacted the mea t industry and the benefits o f low fat diets including

especially beef Initially the state controlled the replacing red meat with poultry and fish

beef industry imposing restrictions on the (Wintour June 2006 Chalabi 2013) This study

handling and processing of carcasses Now the found these issues to be foremost in the minds European Union has authority over the industry of local consumers

and has imposed its restrictions Interviewed

vendors and providers resent the imposition of Stalham East Anglia Norfolk

regulaoons wluch they feel are unnecessary

(S tarling 2006a) The restrictions on farmers Stall1am is loca ted in Norfolk about 16

have caused increa sed pro ducti o n cos ts n1iles east o f Norwich and three n1iles west o f

(ECORYS 2011 Tulip and ivlichaels 2004) Rural the North Se a Norfolk is call e d th e

slaughterhouses closed because of the costs breadbasket of England because of the

associated with the regulations (BBC News production of mea ts grains and potatoes

2001 Broke 2003 Tulip and NIichaels 2004) Stalham is one of many market towns known

Farmers now ship livestock ready for slaughter for their weekly open air markets located along

farther out resulting in higher prices for the the Broads (Collins 1990 Dymond 1990

67 Gf Vol 2 (2)

PIPES Goorlto Sell

Fincham 1976) The Broads National Park is a major landscape feature consisting of a series of

interconnected manmade lakes and livers very

popular with holiday boaters (Figure 1) DUling

the researchers stay in Stalham it was observed

that uansportation in the area is difficult due to the extensive area of the Broads as well as a lack

of major highway systems and adequate public

transportation During the 1950s the train

system was dismantled and replaced by a local

highway Consequently many towns experienced economic decline The area has an extensive bus

system but smaller towns have no service on

Sundays and limited service on Saturdamiddots Town

residents without access to cars cannot leave on

veekends Towns are connected by walking paths But the researcher was cautioned against

using them by host family members who said

personal attacks happened along the paths

Beginning in tl1e late twentieth centuIl

national supermarket chains have had a major impact on market towns like Stalham (Beckert

2011 E DP 2006b 2006c 2006d Entec 2003 Finch 2006 Friends of the Earth 2004 200S

Lovthorpe 2006 jIonbiot 2009 Moreton 20L

Pearson 2004 Tulip and Michaels 200-+

Locating major supermarkets in market ton

makes good economic sense since they are

stopover points for vacationers but they ae

subject to seasonal fluctuation s in revenue

Figure 1 Holida) boalm ill TlJe Broads l ational Park

68

PIPES Good 10 Sell

interviewed said ther were concerned about the consumer (Tulip and Michaels 2004) Poultry disease as compared with 2003 when only farmers were hard hit because of avian flu

forty-two percen t expressed concern Issues of (Heath 2006a 2006b) Any suspicion o f flu now

personal hea lth were actually more in1portant to results in the destruction of entire flocks at great

consumers In 2003 fifty-three percent were fll1 ancial and emotional cOSt to the farmer

concerned with the fat content of the foods they (Heath 2006b) Everyone interviewed for this

eat Fifty percent of the people interviewed were project including consumers and vendors spoke

concerned vith salt intake levels and forty-seven about the need for traceability of meat products

percent were worried about sugar content Xiith the exception of twO individuals

Women were found to be more likely concerned most of the people interviewed in this study about food issues downplayed the impact of food scares on their

Norfolk once one of the largest liestock diet Yet these same individuals stated that they

producing areas in E ngland has been in1pacted changed their meat buying practices somewhat

by competition from abroad (ECOTRYS 2011) due [Q these issues by avoiding potentially

Infectious diseases became a se rious issue infec ted meats for a month or so after the scare

starting in the 1980s when some beef was found According to the Tesco and 11S meat managers to have BSE (EDP 2006e Hutter and Amodu interviewed for this study public concerns about

2008 Kitzinger and Reilly 1997) Some of the the negative effects of consuming animal fats

interviewees stated that the BSE scare did not due to their relationship vith high cholesterol

involve English beef They believe that the have also resulted in raising leaner animals and

tainted beef originated abroad H owever at the trimming off fat Public health articles focus on time the point of origin was no t tracked Animal childhood and adult obesity high cholesterol

diseases have impacted the mea t industry and the benefits o f low fat diets including

especially beef Initially the state controlled the replacing red meat with poultry and fish

beef industry imposing restrictions on the (Wintour June 2006 Chalabi 2013) This study

handling and processing of carcasses Now the found these issues to be foremost in the minds European Union has authority over the industry of local consumers

and has imposed its restrictions Interviewed

vendors and providers resent the imposition of Stalham East Anglia Norfolk

regulaoons wluch they feel are unnecessary

(S tarling 2006a) The restrictions on farmers Stall1am is loca ted in Norfolk about 16

have caused increa sed pro ducti o n cos ts n1iles east o f Norwich and three n1iles west o f

(ECORYS 2011 Tulip and ivlichaels 2004) Rural the North Se a Norfolk is call e d th e

slaughterhouses closed because of the costs breadbasket of England because of the

associated with the regulations (BBC News production of mea ts grains and potatoes

2001 Broke 2003 Tulip and NIichaels 2004) Stalham is one of many market towns known

Farmers now ship livestock ready for slaughter for their weekly open air markets located along

farther out resulting in higher prices for the the Broads (Collins 1990 Dymond 1990

67 Gf Vol 2 (2)

PIPES Goorlto Sell

Fincham 1976) The Broads National Park is a major landscape feature consisting of a series of

interconnected manmade lakes and livers very

popular with holiday boaters (Figure 1) DUling

the researchers stay in Stalham it was observed

that uansportation in the area is difficult due to the extensive area of the Broads as well as a lack

of major highway systems and adequate public

transportation During the 1950s the train

system was dismantled and replaced by a local

highway Consequently many towns experienced economic decline The area has an extensive bus

system but smaller towns have no service on

Sundays and limited service on Saturdamiddots Town

residents without access to cars cannot leave on

veekends Towns are connected by walking paths But the researcher was cautioned against

using them by host family members who said

personal attacks happened along the paths

Beginning in tl1e late twentieth centuIl

national supermarket chains have had a major impact on market towns like Stalham (Beckert

2011 E DP 2006b 2006c 2006d Entec 2003 Finch 2006 Friends of the Earth 2004 200S

Lovthorpe 2006 jIonbiot 2009 Moreton 20L

Pearson 2004 Tulip and Michaels 200-+

Locating major supermarkets in market ton

makes good economic sense since they are

stopover points for vacationers but they ae

subject to seasonal fluctuation s in revenue

Figure 1 Holida) boalm ill TlJe Broads l ational Park

68

PIPES Goorlto Sell

Fincham 1976) The Broads National Park is a major landscape feature consisting of a series of

interconnected manmade lakes and livers very

popular with holiday boaters (Figure 1) DUling

the researchers stay in Stalham it was observed

that uansportation in the area is difficult due to the extensive area of the Broads as well as a lack

of major highway systems and adequate public

transportation During the 1950s the train

system was dismantled and replaced by a local

highway Consequently many towns experienced economic decline The area has an extensive bus

system but smaller towns have no service on

Sundays and limited service on Saturdamiddots Town

residents without access to cars cannot leave on

veekends Towns are connected by walking paths But the researcher was cautioned against

using them by host family members who said

personal attacks happened along the paths

Beginning in tl1e late twentieth centuIl

national supermarket chains have had a major impact on market towns like Stalham (Beckert

2011 E DP 2006b 2006c 2006d Entec 2003 Finch 2006 Friends of the Earth 2004 200S

Lovthorpe 2006 jIonbiot 2009 Moreton 20L

Pearson 2004 Tulip and Michaels 200-+

Locating major supermarkets in market ton

makes good economic sense since they are

stopover points for vacationers but they ae

subject to seasonal fluctuation s in revenue

Figure 1 Holida) boalm ill TlJe Broads l ational Park

68

PIPES Good 10 Sell

Shopkeepers in Stalhams High Street stated that where it has diminished in size and experienced supermarkets hun local shops because they out- a loss in attendance by vendors and consumers

compete them by offering lower prices and (Friends of the E arth 2004)

grea ter availability and quality of goods

However some Stall1am residents stated that the Supermarket Managers and Butchers

supermar et k IS an asset because It IS open seen days a week and has extended store hours O ther The author spent four weeks in Stalham

Sta1l1am residents interviewed complained that during the summer of 2006 She resided with

the supermarket caused local shops to close and two local households sharing meals and daily

that an increase in shoppers from surrounding activities with family members Days were spent

areas resulted in increased conges tion on the visiting local shops and interviewing vendors

High Stree t The town responded to these farmers and consumers Visits Were made to

complaints by redirecting the main road to run butcher shops supermarkets town markets and

in front of Tescos farms O ne day was spent at the Royal Norfolk

b il d f Show an event comparable to an 1-merican state S 11 run a counc compose ta 1am IS 0 ~ agricultural fair Two interviews were conducted

loca l re sid ents with li ttl e background 111 vith participants who were info rmed about this governing but with a commitment to the research project and its goals The Royal No rfolk

administration of the town (Town Council no Show occurs annually lasting two days and

date) The most impressive architec tural covering 1000 acres T he annual attendance is

landmark is St Marys Anglican Church the 50000 visitors a day Livestock are brought in

larges t structure in town wi th a small and from regional farms and compete for awards declining congregation Nea rby is the Bap tist (Figure 2)

Church which has a larger and expanding

congregation The power o f the town is tied to Mea t vendors and provider s we re

the Anglican Church Seeral interviewees grouped by business type supermarkets butcher

complained about the reduction in the size of shops and farms Supermarke ts serve their

the o ld town market and its relocation to a communities by offering a wide ra nge of

parking lo t Stalham had a large market before products including fresh foods processed foods

Tesco which served local needs and drew in household goods and products among others

summer tourists Tesco was built on the site of Small shops generally offer more specific

the former town market The market space products The competition between a large

existed at this location since the medieval period emporium and small vendors is unbalanced in

and was one of the few in- town spaces not built small town s like Stalham (Friends of the Earth

upon It was a logica l location for building the 2005 Wrigley and Lowe 2011 Pearson 2004)

supermarket Tesco originally agreed to allow the The supermarkets are able to offer many of the

market to meet in the parking lot but later products that small shops specialize in at lower

reneged (Friends of the Earth 2004) In 2004 the prices because they get a reduced wholesale price

market was moved to a parking lo t by the library fo r bUing in grea ter quan titi es Unfair

-8[ Vol 2 (269

PIPES Good 10 Sf

Figure 2 A cOllpetitiol at the 2006 Rvalofok S))V

competition is monirored by the Office of Fair Trading which attempts to limit ptice cutting by

larger businesses (Finch July 2006) The

researcher was able to monitor promotion of

sales of meats and poultry on a daily and weekly

basis in promotional advertisements found in newspapers leaflets and brochures Many

businesses promoted their goods in od1er media

including television radio and d1e Internet

Special interest articles appeared fea turing farms

and other specialty businesses (Boyle 2006 EDP

2006a) Special attention is given to events like

the Royal Norfolk Show (Marsh 2006 Redhead

2006) Na tional and regional farm organizations

promote local producers including the National

Farmers Retail amp Markets 1ssociation (FARMA) Womens Farm Union (VFU) and

the Norfolk Farmers Union (NFU) The main

regulatory body in Btitain is the Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA)

an organi za tion that helps promote local

producers

Supermarkets expanded dramatically in

the last 25 years and currendy dominate the

consumer market (Vrigley and Lowe 2011

Friend of Earth 2005) They are widespread

impacting small local stores including butcher

shops (Monbiot 2009 ECORYS 2011) To

counter specialty meat vendors intensified their

efforts expanding into new consumer areas like

lunch counters catering and extending store

hours (Beckett 2011 EDP 2006a 2006d) They

also target meat products ro afOuent and

environmentally conscious people (Moreton 2013) Agricultural stores and other grocers have

also intensified promoting local products and

F~ V I (2) 70

PIPES Good 10 Sell

appealing to consumers concerned wim healmier visits were also made to Sain s bury s diets (Boyle 2006 Finch 2006 Starling 2006a) Supermarket

A 2006 study (EDP 2006a 2006d) indicated According to managers from both Tesco small meat shops were gaining ground and MS supermarkets mese businesses target Ironically specialty meat vendors benefited different segments of me population Tesco economically from the food scares of me last targe ts the working class while MS targe ts the twenry years because of public perception mat upper middle class There are differences and

their meats are better regulated and mere fore similaricies between meir products A visit by me healthier (Boyle 2006 Starling 2006a) researcher to Tesco and MS supermarkets

Supermarkets contract wim vholesalers revealed major differences including food

wh o obtain meat s from national and presentation name brands versus store brands

international enterprises (Entec 2003 ECORY price shelf space for fair trade and organic

2011) Currently about 40 percent of English foods and store locations Tesco carries lots of

meats are imported (Entec 2003) Some butchers brands whereas MS carries mainly its own

buy carcasses from wholesalers but most brand Tesco has inexpensive prices while MS

Norfolk butchers know their cu stomers want has higher prices Tesco carries a small line of local meat (S tarling 2006b Tulip and Michaels Fair Trade items willie MS carries onl) Fair

2004) They POSt me name and location of me Trade items Tesco carries a limited range of

farm where an animal was raised (DEFRA organic foods where MS is invested in organic

regulations nd RPA 2009) Some butchers raise foods Tescos are located in working class towns

their own lives tock wIllie otllers have contracts and neighborhoods wIllie tvIS stores are located wim local farmers One of the rural butchers in more affluent areas

interviewed stated he and a few other local Similarities are apparen t as well Bom butchers raise and market meir own liestock supermarkets employ a marketing strategy

Most farmers do no t own the livestock mey raise targeting the pretend scratch cook These but are instead paid to raise mem and are no t products con sist of produce clea ned and involved in slaughtering or marketing meat trimmed and meats poultry and fish prepared products (Broke 2003 FSA 2004 RPA 2009) in some wa such as marinated which can be

Supermarkets serve the needs of most quickly cooked Tesco and MS managers stated

people mroughout Norfolk providing a range of mat tlle main concerns of modern working

packaged meats at affordable prices xfhile tller people regarding food preparation are tinle offer some high end meat cuts most are of convenience and quality Modern vas an

middle to lower end cuts (Becken 2011 EDP adjec tive used by me managers to identify people

2006a) Interview s were conducted with with some sense of healtll class and social

supermarket m eat managers from Tesco s conSClence Tesco NIS and omer supermarkets

Supermarket and Marks and Spencer sell lean cuts of beef Drier cuts of meat are

Supermarket (herein MS) and the ch eese wrapped in a strip of fat tllat me cook can use

manager at Roys of Wroxham Supermarket Site or discard Beef pork and chicken are tlle main

71 - ET Vol 2 (2)

PIPES Good 0 Sell

meats sold though lamb is fairly common No organ meats are sold at anv supermarkets

According to one Tesco manager lllie

o ther supermarke ts and butch ers Te sco

contracts rith vholesalers to prOride them with

meats That manager was emphatic that butchers are lving about getting their meats from local

farms When asked if Tesco s consumers are

more concern ed today about health and

sanitatio n he responded no and suggested

instead that con sumers todav are interested in convenience and sang time icco rding to him

consumers want the best quality meat at the

price that can be traced The manager pointed to

a wide range of produce and meats for the

pretend scratch cook claiming that people feel bener when they pretend to cook from scratch

The term scratch cook was used frequently by

store managers to refer to people who wanted

the convenience of cooking fresh foods that

were prepped and ready to be used The store in Stalliam was o bserved by the researcher to carry

the most common popular cuts of meat These

meat cuts were labeled inclicaring they came

from lean or low fat animals The Stalliam Tesco

reached an agreement with the Town Council permining them to add a fishmonger to the

supermarket should me local one go out of

business (lv1ayor o f Stalham 2006 personal

communication) When it clid the Tesco added a

fi sh stand Many consumers interviewed sa id it was the feature mer lllied most about Tesco and

felt me employee knew fish Unlllie other

employees the fi shmonger received specialty

training Finally when asked if he had concerns

abo ut me health and safety of Tescos meats the manager of m e Stalliam supermarket stated that

Tesco follows all government standards for health and safety and stands behind the label

The Marks and Spencer (MS) meat

manager was intervieved at the store in

downtown Norwich MS carries the same range

o f meats and poultry as Tesco though there is no fi shmonger They sell a large line of prepared

produce and meats as well as prepared fi sh (eg

herrings marinated in sauce) All of the

statements in this section are based on the

managers re sponses to questions posed Like Tesco they are expanding the pretend scratch

cook food line because they recognize that

modern people want the convenience and time

samiddotings they o ffer Wh en asked if th eir

customers w ere concerned with the health and safety o f their food s he answered yes MS

customers tend to be older affluent adults with

more clisposable income They al so tend to be

better educated and informed concerned mo re

with healtll ) balanced cliets The manager stated that their older clients are eating less fat and

more fish because they are concerned about

lowering their choles terol and controlling high

blood pressure through diet MS customers want

traceable mea ts and are confident MS will proride them ritll quality meats He said mat

during the BSE scare beef sales actually went up

because of the trus t factor similarly during a

salmonella scare (in November 2005) when

chicken sales dropped natio nally their sales remained me same G enerally MS sales tend to

be steady throughout me year During holidays

they increase the variety of meats MS places a

g reat emph as is on Fair Trade items an

important issue in E ngland and Europe Fair Trade does no t emphasize local foods Instead it

means that products sold are produced abroad

-D Vol 2 (2) 72

~

PIPES Good to Sell

b people working in conditions mee ting a organic farmers and a well-known Angus beef certain standard and who are paid a certain butcher Butcher shops suffered initially with the

wage When asked if Fair Trade was unfair to spread of supermarke t chain s th roughout

local producers the manage r responded simply England (Beckett 2011 MoretOn 2013 Pearson

that it was the stOres policy The manager also 2004) But BSE brought about a number of

said that MS is expanding organic foods due to socioeconomic consequences resulting in a increasing consumer demand The manager went renewed interest in butcher shops drawing in

on to say that while organic foods do not taste people concerned about the health and safe ty o f

any different than commercially grown foods meat products (Boyle 2006 Lowtllfope 2006)

they are considered healthier for consumers Consumers inten iewed believe the butchers

which is an issue important to their custOmers meat is obtained from local farmers Butcher He had no concerns about the health and safety shops changed their marketing strategie s

of tlle foods they sell Like Tesco )v[S adheres to recognizing they could market to a higher

all government regulations and stands behind income clientele by selling more expensive and

their name better quality mea ts (EDP 2006a 2006b 2006c

Roys of Wroxham supermarket takes a 2006d Starling 2006a 2006b) Some butchers

different marke ting approach empha sizing like the one in Stalllam diversified and added

locally produced foods The tOwn of Wroxham lunch counters

is large and located on the Broads The Since the BSE scare the European Union

research er intervi ewe d th e Ro ys ch eese and tlle state imposed regulations prohibiting the

d e p artment man age r He said th a t t he slaughter o f lives tock except at certified supermarket makes an effort to carry local slaughterhouses (DEFRA nd E ntec 2003 FSA

produce mea ts and other products In 2006 2004 2007 Hurter and 1Jnodu 200S RPA 2009

they advertised over 1000 locall made products Tulip and Michaels 2004) Butchers who raise

Like Tesco and MS they carry middle to lower and butcher their livestock must arrange fo r their

end meat cuts The cheese counter was tll e animals to be slaughtered at one o f these state largest of all tlle supermarkets visited by the certifi ed fac iliti e s So m e rur al butcher s

researcher having hundreds of varie ties The interviewed said they canno t verify if the

manage r stated he had no concerns about the carcasses re turned to them are the original live

health and sa fety of mea t products carried by animals sent to be slaughtered The rural

the store Stalllam butcher who used to work at a

The researcher observed that tl1ere is slaughterhouse claimed that mea t inspectors

qUite a bit o f overlap between butchers and stamped any carcass well-marbled with fat as

farmers who raise livestock Manv of tlle Sco ttish Beef regardless o f ItS provenance

butchers are farmers and man o f the farmers However traceability is one o f tlle strictes t EU

are butchers A total o f fiv~ butchers were requirements regulating the meat indu str y

interviewed the local Stalliam butcher the ru ral (DEFRA nd FSA 2004 2007 H utter and

Stalllam butcher a husband and wife team of Amodu 200S RPl- 2009)

73 _-i) 12 (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

The local Stalham butcher has an upscale

shop originally his fadlers The butcher stated

mat he competed wim Tesco by selling better

meat cuts teaming up with a baker adding a

lunch counter and catering parties bull-1S Tesco

expanded to offer hot lunches and prepared

foods it became harder to compete His

continued success is due to a loyal customer base

which was solidified br the BSE scare

Customers believe mat his meats come from

local farmers He does not raise livestock but

contracts wim local farmers Vhen Tesco came

to Stalliam mey agreed not to hwe a butcher a

bakery or a fishmonger because these businesses

existed at me tinle But since me store opened

only the butcher remains in business Since the

Figure 3 A)lslalJ Market ill StaalJ

other two are out of business Tesco has added a

bakery and fIshmonger to the store

The Aberdeen Angus butcher was

interviewed in me iylsham Market proudly

displa1no- ribbons won at the Royal Norfolk b

Show (Figure 3) He c1ainls mat Aberdeen

-1ngus is me best beef and that its delicious

flavor is due to high fat content During the BSE

scare his sales actually rose due to his reputation

Like omers interviewed he believes the tainted

BSE meat mat set off me scare was inlported

and does not think me disease is in England He

also stated that in recent rears people are buying

more meats from butchers and it has cut into

supermarket sales

Ash Farm also had a pitch in jylsham

Market Pitch is me local term used indicating a

BC Vol 2 (2) 74

PIPES Good 10 Sf

Figure 2 A cOllpetitiol at the 2006 Rvalofok S))V

competition is monirored by the Office of Fair Trading which attempts to limit ptice cutting by

larger businesses (Finch July 2006) The

researcher was able to monitor promotion of

sales of meats and poultry on a daily and weekly

basis in promotional advertisements found in newspapers leaflets and brochures Many

businesses promoted their goods in od1er media

including television radio and d1e Internet

Special interest articles appeared fea turing farms

and other specialty businesses (Boyle 2006 EDP

2006a) Special attention is given to events like

the Royal Norfolk Show (Marsh 2006 Redhead

2006) Na tional and regional farm organizations

promote local producers including the National

Farmers Retail amp Markets 1ssociation (FARMA) Womens Farm Union (VFU) and

the Norfolk Farmers Union (NFU) The main

regulatory body in Btitain is the Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA)

an organi za tion that helps promote local

producers

Supermarkets expanded dramatically in

the last 25 years and currendy dominate the

consumer market (Vrigley and Lowe 2011

Friend of Earth 2005) They are widespread

impacting small local stores including butcher

shops (Monbiot 2009 ECORYS 2011) To

counter specialty meat vendors intensified their

efforts expanding into new consumer areas like

lunch counters catering and extending store

hours (Beckett 2011 EDP 2006a 2006d) They

also target meat products ro afOuent and

environmentally conscious people (Moreton 2013) Agricultural stores and other grocers have

also intensified promoting local products and

F~ V I (2) 70

PIPES Good 10 Sell

appealing to consumers concerned wim healmier visits were also made to Sain s bury s diets (Boyle 2006 Finch 2006 Starling 2006a) Supermarket

A 2006 study (EDP 2006a 2006d) indicated According to managers from both Tesco small meat shops were gaining ground and MS supermarkets mese businesses target Ironically specialty meat vendors benefited different segments of me population Tesco economically from the food scares of me last targe ts the working class while MS targe ts the twenry years because of public perception mat upper middle class There are differences and

their meats are better regulated and mere fore similaricies between meir products A visit by me healthier (Boyle 2006 Starling 2006a) researcher to Tesco and MS supermarkets

Supermarkets contract wim vholesalers revealed major differences including food

wh o obtain meat s from national and presentation name brands versus store brands

international enterprises (Entec 2003 ECORY price shelf space for fair trade and organic

2011) Currently about 40 percent of English foods and store locations Tesco carries lots of

meats are imported (Entec 2003) Some butchers brands whereas MS carries mainly its own

buy carcasses from wholesalers but most brand Tesco has inexpensive prices while MS

Norfolk butchers know their cu stomers want has higher prices Tesco carries a small line of local meat (S tarling 2006b Tulip and Michaels Fair Trade items willie MS carries onl) Fair

2004) They POSt me name and location of me Trade items Tesco carries a limited range of

farm where an animal was raised (DEFRA organic foods where MS is invested in organic

regulations nd RPA 2009) Some butchers raise foods Tescos are located in working class towns

their own lives tock wIllie otllers have contracts and neighborhoods wIllie tvIS stores are located wim local farmers One of the rural butchers in more affluent areas

interviewed stated he and a few other local Similarities are apparen t as well Bom butchers raise and market meir own liestock supermarkets employ a marketing strategy

Most farmers do no t own the livestock mey raise targeting the pretend scratch cook These but are instead paid to raise mem and are no t products con sist of produce clea ned and involved in slaughtering or marketing meat trimmed and meats poultry and fish prepared products (Broke 2003 FSA 2004 RPA 2009) in some wa such as marinated which can be

Supermarkets serve the needs of most quickly cooked Tesco and MS managers stated

people mroughout Norfolk providing a range of mat tlle main concerns of modern working

packaged meats at affordable prices xfhile tller people regarding food preparation are tinle offer some high end meat cuts most are of convenience and quality Modern vas an

middle to lower end cuts (Becken 2011 EDP adjec tive used by me managers to identify people

2006a) Interview s were conducted with with some sense of healtll class and social

supermarket m eat managers from Tesco s conSClence Tesco NIS and omer supermarkets

Supermarket and Marks and Spencer sell lean cuts of beef Drier cuts of meat are

Supermarket (herein MS) and the ch eese wrapped in a strip of fat tllat me cook can use

manager at Roys of Wroxham Supermarket Site or discard Beef pork and chicken are tlle main

71 - ET Vol 2 (2)

PIPES Good 0 Sell

meats sold though lamb is fairly common No organ meats are sold at anv supermarkets

According to one Tesco manager lllie

o ther supermarke ts and butch ers Te sco

contracts rith vholesalers to prOride them with

meats That manager was emphatic that butchers are lving about getting their meats from local

farms When asked if Tesco s consumers are

more concern ed today about health and

sanitatio n he responded no and suggested

instead that con sumers todav are interested in convenience and sang time icco rding to him

consumers want the best quality meat at the

price that can be traced The manager pointed to

a wide range of produce and meats for the

pretend scratch cook claiming that people feel bener when they pretend to cook from scratch

The term scratch cook was used frequently by

store managers to refer to people who wanted

the convenience of cooking fresh foods that

were prepped and ready to be used The store in Stalliam was o bserved by the researcher to carry

the most common popular cuts of meat These

meat cuts were labeled inclicaring they came

from lean or low fat animals The Stalliam Tesco

reached an agreement with the Town Council permining them to add a fishmonger to the

supermarket should me local one go out of

business (lv1ayor o f Stalham 2006 personal

communication) When it clid the Tesco added a

fi sh stand Many consumers interviewed sa id it was the feature mer lllied most about Tesco and

felt me employee knew fish Unlllie other

employees the fi shmonger received specialty

training Finally when asked if he had concerns

abo ut me health and safety of Tescos meats the manager of m e Stalliam supermarket stated that

Tesco follows all government standards for health and safety and stands behind the label

The Marks and Spencer (MS) meat

manager was intervieved at the store in

downtown Norwich MS carries the same range

o f meats and poultry as Tesco though there is no fi shmonger They sell a large line of prepared

produce and meats as well as prepared fi sh (eg

herrings marinated in sauce) All of the

statements in this section are based on the

managers re sponses to questions posed Like Tesco they are expanding the pretend scratch

cook food line because they recognize that

modern people want the convenience and time

samiddotings they o ffer Wh en asked if th eir

customers w ere concerned with the health and safety o f their food s he answered yes MS

customers tend to be older affluent adults with

more clisposable income They al so tend to be

better educated and informed concerned mo re

with healtll ) balanced cliets The manager stated that their older clients are eating less fat and

more fish because they are concerned about

lowering their choles terol and controlling high

blood pressure through diet MS customers want

traceable mea ts and are confident MS will proride them ritll quality meats He said mat

during the BSE scare beef sales actually went up

because of the trus t factor similarly during a

salmonella scare (in November 2005) when

chicken sales dropped natio nally their sales remained me same G enerally MS sales tend to

be steady throughout me year During holidays

they increase the variety of meats MS places a

g reat emph as is on Fair Trade items an

important issue in E ngland and Europe Fair Trade does no t emphasize local foods Instead it

means that products sold are produced abroad

-D Vol 2 (2) 72

~

PIPES Good to Sell

b people working in conditions mee ting a organic farmers and a well-known Angus beef certain standard and who are paid a certain butcher Butcher shops suffered initially with the

wage When asked if Fair Trade was unfair to spread of supermarke t chain s th roughout

local producers the manage r responded simply England (Beckett 2011 MoretOn 2013 Pearson

that it was the stOres policy The manager also 2004) But BSE brought about a number of

said that MS is expanding organic foods due to socioeconomic consequences resulting in a increasing consumer demand The manager went renewed interest in butcher shops drawing in

on to say that while organic foods do not taste people concerned about the health and safe ty o f

any different than commercially grown foods meat products (Boyle 2006 Lowtllfope 2006)

they are considered healthier for consumers Consumers inten iewed believe the butchers

which is an issue important to their custOmers meat is obtained from local farmers Butcher He had no concerns about the health and safety shops changed their marketing strategie s

of tlle foods they sell Like Tesco )v[S adheres to recognizing they could market to a higher

all government regulations and stands behind income clientele by selling more expensive and

their name better quality mea ts (EDP 2006a 2006b 2006c

Roys of Wroxham supermarket takes a 2006d Starling 2006a 2006b) Some butchers

different marke ting approach empha sizing like the one in Stalllam diversified and added

locally produced foods The tOwn of Wroxham lunch counters

is large and located on the Broads The Since the BSE scare the European Union

research er intervi ewe d th e Ro ys ch eese and tlle state imposed regulations prohibiting the

d e p artment man age r He said th a t t he slaughter o f lives tock except at certified supermarket makes an effort to carry local slaughterhouses (DEFRA nd E ntec 2003 FSA

produce mea ts and other products In 2006 2004 2007 Hurter and 1Jnodu 200S RPA 2009

they advertised over 1000 locall made products Tulip and Michaels 2004) Butchers who raise

Like Tesco and MS they carry middle to lower and butcher their livestock must arrange fo r their

end meat cuts The cheese counter was tll e animals to be slaughtered at one o f these state largest of all tlle supermarkets visited by the certifi ed fac iliti e s So m e rur al butcher s

researcher having hundreds of varie ties The interviewed said they canno t verify if the

manage r stated he had no concerns about the carcasses re turned to them are the original live

health and sa fety of mea t products carried by animals sent to be slaughtered The rural

the store Stalllam butcher who used to work at a

The researcher observed that tl1ere is slaughterhouse claimed that mea t inspectors

qUite a bit o f overlap between butchers and stamped any carcass well-marbled with fat as

farmers who raise livestock Manv of tlle Sco ttish Beef regardless o f ItS provenance

butchers are farmers and man o f the farmers However traceability is one o f tlle strictes t EU

are butchers A total o f fiv~ butchers were requirements regulating the meat indu str y

interviewed the local Stalliam butcher the ru ral (DEFRA nd FSA 2004 2007 H utter and

Stalllam butcher a husband and wife team of Amodu 200S RPl- 2009)

73 _-i) 12 (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

The local Stalham butcher has an upscale

shop originally his fadlers The butcher stated

mat he competed wim Tesco by selling better

meat cuts teaming up with a baker adding a

lunch counter and catering parties bull-1S Tesco

expanded to offer hot lunches and prepared

foods it became harder to compete His

continued success is due to a loyal customer base

which was solidified br the BSE scare

Customers believe mat his meats come from

local farmers He does not raise livestock but

contracts wim local farmers Vhen Tesco came

to Stalliam mey agreed not to hwe a butcher a

bakery or a fishmonger because these businesses

existed at me tinle But since me store opened

only the butcher remains in business Since the

Figure 3 A)lslalJ Market ill StaalJ

other two are out of business Tesco has added a

bakery and fIshmonger to the store

The Aberdeen Angus butcher was

interviewed in me iylsham Market proudly

displa1no- ribbons won at the Royal Norfolk b

Show (Figure 3) He c1ainls mat Aberdeen

-1ngus is me best beef and that its delicious

flavor is due to high fat content During the BSE

scare his sales actually rose due to his reputation

Like omers interviewed he believes the tainted

BSE meat mat set off me scare was inlported

and does not think me disease is in England He

also stated that in recent rears people are buying

more meats from butchers and it has cut into

supermarket sales

Ash Farm also had a pitch in jylsham

Market Pitch is me local term used indicating a

BC Vol 2 (2) 74

PIPES Good 10 Sell

appealing to consumers concerned wim healmier visits were also made to Sain s bury s diets (Boyle 2006 Finch 2006 Starling 2006a) Supermarket

A 2006 study (EDP 2006a 2006d) indicated According to managers from both Tesco small meat shops were gaining ground and MS supermarkets mese businesses target Ironically specialty meat vendors benefited different segments of me population Tesco economically from the food scares of me last targe ts the working class while MS targe ts the twenry years because of public perception mat upper middle class There are differences and

their meats are better regulated and mere fore similaricies between meir products A visit by me healthier (Boyle 2006 Starling 2006a) researcher to Tesco and MS supermarkets

Supermarkets contract wim vholesalers revealed major differences including food

wh o obtain meat s from national and presentation name brands versus store brands

international enterprises (Entec 2003 ECORY price shelf space for fair trade and organic

2011) Currently about 40 percent of English foods and store locations Tesco carries lots of

meats are imported (Entec 2003) Some butchers brands whereas MS carries mainly its own

buy carcasses from wholesalers but most brand Tesco has inexpensive prices while MS

Norfolk butchers know their cu stomers want has higher prices Tesco carries a small line of local meat (S tarling 2006b Tulip and Michaels Fair Trade items willie MS carries onl) Fair

2004) They POSt me name and location of me Trade items Tesco carries a limited range of

farm where an animal was raised (DEFRA organic foods where MS is invested in organic

regulations nd RPA 2009) Some butchers raise foods Tescos are located in working class towns

their own lives tock wIllie otllers have contracts and neighborhoods wIllie tvIS stores are located wim local farmers One of the rural butchers in more affluent areas

interviewed stated he and a few other local Similarities are apparen t as well Bom butchers raise and market meir own liestock supermarkets employ a marketing strategy

Most farmers do no t own the livestock mey raise targeting the pretend scratch cook These but are instead paid to raise mem and are no t products con sist of produce clea ned and involved in slaughtering or marketing meat trimmed and meats poultry and fish prepared products (Broke 2003 FSA 2004 RPA 2009) in some wa such as marinated which can be

Supermarkets serve the needs of most quickly cooked Tesco and MS managers stated

people mroughout Norfolk providing a range of mat tlle main concerns of modern working

packaged meats at affordable prices xfhile tller people regarding food preparation are tinle offer some high end meat cuts most are of convenience and quality Modern vas an

middle to lower end cuts (Becken 2011 EDP adjec tive used by me managers to identify people

2006a) Interview s were conducted with with some sense of healtll class and social

supermarket m eat managers from Tesco s conSClence Tesco NIS and omer supermarkets

Supermarket and Marks and Spencer sell lean cuts of beef Drier cuts of meat are

Supermarket (herein MS) and the ch eese wrapped in a strip of fat tllat me cook can use

manager at Roys of Wroxham Supermarket Site or discard Beef pork and chicken are tlle main

71 - ET Vol 2 (2)

PIPES Good 0 Sell

meats sold though lamb is fairly common No organ meats are sold at anv supermarkets

According to one Tesco manager lllie

o ther supermarke ts and butch ers Te sco

contracts rith vholesalers to prOride them with

meats That manager was emphatic that butchers are lving about getting their meats from local

farms When asked if Tesco s consumers are

more concern ed today about health and

sanitatio n he responded no and suggested

instead that con sumers todav are interested in convenience and sang time icco rding to him

consumers want the best quality meat at the

price that can be traced The manager pointed to

a wide range of produce and meats for the

pretend scratch cook claiming that people feel bener when they pretend to cook from scratch

The term scratch cook was used frequently by

store managers to refer to people who wanted

the convenience of cooking fresh foods that

were prepped and ready to be used The store in Stalliam was o bserved by the researcher to carry

the most common popular cuts of meat These

meat cuts were labeled inclicaring they came

from lean or low fat animals The Stalliam Tesco

reached an agreement with the Town Council permining them to add a fishmonger to the

supermarket should me local one go out of

business (lv1ayor o f Stalham 2006 personal

communication) When it clid the Tesco added a

fi sh stand Many consumers interviewed sa id it was the feature mer lllied most about Tesco and

felt me employee knew fish Unlllie other

employees the fi shmonger received specialty

training Finally when asked if he had concerns

abo ut me health and safety of Tescos meats the manager of m e Stalliam supermarket stated that

Tesco follows all government standards for health and safety and stands behind the label

The Marks and Spencer (MS) meat

manager was intervieved at the store in

downtown Norwich MS carries the same range

o f meats and poultry as Tesco though there is no fi shmonger They sell a large line of prepared

produce and meats as well as prepared fi sh (eg

herrings marinated in sauce) All of the

statements in this section are based on the

managers re sponses to questions posed Like Tesco they are expanding the pretend scratch

cook food line because they recognize that

modern people want the convenience and time

samiddotings they o ffer Wh en asked if th eir

customers w ere concerned with the health and safety o f their food s he answered yes MS

customers tend to be older affluent adults with

more clisposable income They al so tend to be

better educated and informed concerned mo re

with healtll ) balanced cliets The manager stated that their older clients are eating less fat and

more fish because they are concerned about

lowering their choles terol and controlling high

blood pressure through diet MS customers want

traceable mea ts and are confident MS will proride them ritll quality meats He said mat

during the BSE scare beef sales actually went up

because of the trus t factor similarly during a

salmonella scare (in November 2005) when

chicken sales dropped natio nally their sales remained me same G enerally MS sales tend to

be steady throughout me year During holidays

they increase the variety of meats MS places a

g reat emph as is on Fair Trade items an

important issue in E ngland and Europe Fair Trade does no t emphasize local foods Instead it

means that products sold are produced abroad

-D Vol 2 (2) 72

~

PIPES Good to Sell

b people working in conditions mee ting a organic farmers and a well-known Angus beef certain standard and who are paid a certain butcher Butcher shops suffered initially with the

wage When asked if Fair Trade was unfair to spread of supermarke t chain s th roughout

local producers the manage r responded simply England (Beckett 2011 MoretOn 2013 Pearson

that it was the stOres policy The manager also 2004) But BSE brought about a number of

said that MS is expanding organic foods due to socioeconomic consequences resulting in a increasing consumer demand The manager went renewed interest in butcher shops drawing in

on to say that while organic foods do not taste people concerned about the health and safe ty o f

any different than commercially grown foods meat products (Boyle 2006 Lowtllfope 2006)

they are considered healthier for consumers Consumers inten iewed believe the butchers

which is an issue important to their custOmers meat is obtained from local farmers Butcher He had no concerns about the health and safety shops changed their marketing strategie s

of tlle foods they sell Like Tesco )v[S adheres to recognizing they could market to a higher

all government regulations and stands behind income clientele by selling more expensive and

their name better quality mea ts (EDP 2006a 2006b 2006c

Roys of Wroxham supermarket takes a 2006d Starling 2006a 2006b) Some butchers

different marke ting approach empha sizing like the one in Stalllam diversified and added

locally produced foods The tOwn of Wroxham lunch counters

is large and located on the Broads The Since the BSE scare the European Union

research er intervi ewe d th e Ro ys ch eese and tlle state imposed regulations prohibiting the

d e p artment man age r He said th a t t he slaughter o f lives tock except at certified supermarket makes an effort to carry local slaughterhouses (DEFRA nd E ntec 2003 FSA

produce mea ts and other products In 2006 2004 2007 Hurter and 1Jnodu 200S RPA 2009

they advertised over 1000 locall made products Tulip and Michaels 2004) Butchers who raise

Like Tesco and MS they carry middle to lower and butcher their livestock must arrange fo r their

end meat cuts The cheese counter was tll e animals to be slaughtered at one o f these state largest of all tlle supermarkets visited by the certifi ed fac iliti e s So m e rur al butcher s

researcher having hundreds of varie ties The interviewed said they canno t verify if the

manage r stated he had no concerns about the carcasses re turned to them are the original live

health and sa fety of mea t products carried by animals sent to be slaughtered The rural

the store Stalllam butcher who used to work at a

The researcher observed that tl1ere is slaughterhouse claimed that mea t inspectors

qUite a bit o f overlap between butchers and stamped any carcass well-marbled with fat as

farmers who raise livestock Manv of tlle Sco ttish Beef regardless o f ItS provenance

butchers are farmers and man o f the farmers However traceability is one o f tlle strictes t EU

are butchers A total o f fiv~ butchers were requirements regulating the meat indu str y

interviewed the local Stalliam butcher the ru ral (DEFRA nd FSA 2004 2007 H utter and

Stalllam butcher a husband and wife team of Amodu 200S RPl- 2009)

73 _-i) 12 (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

The local Stalham butcher has an upscale

shop originally his fadlers The butcher stated

mat he competed wim Tesco by selling better

meat cuts teaming up with a baker adding a

lunch counter and catering parties bull-1S Tesco

expanded to offer hot lunches and prepared

foods it became harder to compete His

continued success is due to a loyal customer base

which was solidified br the BSE scare

Customers believe mat his meats come from

local farmers He does not raise livestock but

contracts wim local farmers Vhen Tesco came

to Stalliam mey agreed not to hwe a butcher a

bakery or a fishmonger because these businesses

existed at me tinle But since me store opened

only the butcher remains in business Since the

Figure 3 A)lslalJ Market ill StaalJ

other two are out of business Tesco has added a

bakery and fIshmonger to the store

The Aberdeen Angus butcher was

interviewed in me iylsham Market proudly

displa1no- ribbons won at the Royal Norfolk b

Show (Figure 3) He c1ainls mat Aberdeen

-1ngus is me best beef and that its delicious

flavor is due to high fat content During the BSE

scare his sales actually rose due to his reputation

Like omers interviewed he believes the tainted

BSE meat mat set off me scare was inlported

and does not think me disease is in England He

also stated that in recent rears people are buying

more meats from butchers and it has cut into

supermarket sales

Ash Farm also had a pitch in jylsham

Market Pitch is me local term used indicating a

BC Vol 2 (2) 74

PIPES Good 0 Sell

meats sold though lamb is fairly common No organ meats are sold at anv supermarkets

According to one Tesco manager lllie

o ther supermarke ts and butch ers Te sco

contracts rith vholesalers to prOride them with

meats That manager was emphatic that butchers are lving about getting their meats from local

farms When asked if Tesco s consumers are

more concern ed today about health and

sanitatio n he responded no and suggested

instead that con sumers todav are interested in convenience and sang time icco rding to him

consumers want the best quality meat at the

price that can be traced The manager pointed to

a wide range of produce and meats for the

pretend scratch cook claiming that people feel bener when they pretend to cook from scratch

The term scratch cook was used frequently by

store managers to refer to people who wanted

the convenience of cooking fresh foods that

were prepped and ready to be used The store in Stalliam was o bserved by the researcher to carry

the most common popular cuts of meat These

meat cuts were labeled inclicaring they came

from lean or low fat animals The Stalliam Tesco

reached an agreement with the Town Council permining them to add a fishmonger to the

supermarket should me local one go out of

business (lv1ayor o f Stalham 2006 personal

communication) When it clid the Tesco added a

fi sh stand Many consumers interviewed sa id it was the feature mer lllied most about Tesco and

felt me employee knew fish Unlllie other

employees the fi shmonger received specialty

training Finally when asked if he had concerns

abo ut me health and safety of Tescos meats the manager of m e Stalliam supermarket stated that

Tesco follows all government standards for health and safety and stands behind the label

The Marks and Spencer (MS) meat

manager was intervieved at the store in

downtown Norwich MS carries the same range

o f meats and poultry as Tesco though there is no fi shmonger They sell a large line of prepared

produce and meats as well as prepared fi sh (eg

herrings marinated in sauce) All of the

statements in this section are based on the

managers re sponses to questions posed Like Tesco they are expanding the pretend scratch

cook food line because they recognize that

modern people want the convenience and time

samiddotings they o ffer Wh en asked if th eir

customers w ere concerned with the health and safety o f their food s he answered yes MS

customers tend to be older affluent adults with

more clisposable income They al so tend to be

better educated and informed concerned mo re

with healtll ) balanced cliets The manager stated that their older clients are eating less fat and

more fish because they are concerned about

lowering their choles terol and controlling high

blood pressure through diet MS customers want

traceable mea ts and are confident MS will proride them ritll quality meats He said mat

during the BSE scare beef sales actually went up

because of the trus t factor similarly during a

salmonella scare (in November 2005) when

chicken sales dropped natio nally their sales remained me same G enerally MS sales tend to

be steady throughout me year During holidays

they increase the variety of meats MS places a

g reat emph as is on Fair Trade items an

important issue in E ngland and Europe Fair Trade does no t emphasize local foods Instead it

means that products sold are produced abroad

-D Vol 2 (2) 72

~

PIPES Good to Sell

b people working in conditions mee ting a organic farmers and a well-known Angus beef certain standard and who are paid a certain butcher Butcher shops suffered initially with the

wage When asked if Fair Trade was unfair to spread of supermarke t chain s th roughout

local producers the manage r responded simply England (Beckett 2011 MoretOn 2013 Pearson

that it was the stOres policy The manager also 2004) But BSE brought about a number of

said that MS is expanding organic foods due to socioeconomic consequences resulting in a increasing consumer demand The manager went renewed interest in butcher shops drawing in

on to say that while organic foods do not taste people concerned about the health and safe ty o f

any different than commercially grown foods meat products (Boyle 2006 Lowtllfope 2006)

they are considered healthier for consumers Consumers inten iewed believe the butchers

which is an issue important to their custOmers meat is obtained from local farmers Butcher He had no concerns about the health and safety shops changed their marketing strategie s

of tlle foods they sell Like Tesco )v[S adheres to recognizing they could market to a higher

all government regulations and stands behind income clientele by selling more expensive and

their name better quality mea ts (EDP 2006a 2006b 2006c

Roys of Wroxham supermarket takes a 2006d Starling 2006a 2006b) Some butchers

different marke ting approach empha sizing like the one in Stalllam diversified and added

locally produced foods The tOwn of Wroxham lunch counters

is large and located on the Broads The Since the BSE scare the European Union

research er intervi ewe d th e Ro ys ch eese and tlle state imposed regulations prohibiting the

d e p artment man age r He said th a t t he slaughter o f lives tock except at certified supermarket makes an effort to carry local slaughterhouses (DEFRA nd E ntec 2003 FSA

produce mea ts and other products In 2006 2004 2007 Hurter and 1Jnodu 200S RPA 2009

they advertised over 1000 locall made products Tulip and Michaels 2004) Butchers who raise

Like Tesco and MS they carry middle to lower and butcher their livestock must arrange fo r their

end meat cuts The cheese counter was tll e animals to be slaughtered at one o f these state largest of all tlle supermarkets visited by the certifi ed fac iliti e s So m e rur al butcher s

researcher having hundreds of varie ties The interviewed said they canno t verify if the

manage r stated he had no concerns about the carcasses re turned to them are the original live

health and sa fety of mea t products carried by animals sent to be slaughtered The rural

the store Stalllam butcher who used to work at a

The researcher observed that tl1ere is slaughterhouse claimed that mea t inspectors

qUite a bit o f overlap between butchers and stamped any carcass well-marbled with fat as

farmers who raise livestock Manv of tlle Sco ttish Beef regardless o f ItS provenance

butchers are farmers and man o f the farmers However traceability is one o f tlle strictes t EU

are butchers A total o f fiv~ butchers were requirements regulating the meat indu str y

interviewed the local Stalliam butcher the ru ral (DEFRA nd FSA 2004 2007 H utter and

Stalllam butcher a husband and wife team of Amodu 200S RPl- 2009)

73 _-i) 12 (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

The local Stalham butcher has an upscale

shop originally his fadlers The butcher stated

mat he competed wim Tesco by selling better

meat cuts teaming up with a baker adding a

lunch counter and catering parties bull-1S Tesco

expanded to offer hot lunches and prepared

foods it became harder to compete His

continued success is due to a loyal customer base

which was solidified br the BSE scare

Customers believe mat his meats come from

local farmers He does not raise livestock but

contracts wim local farmers Vhen Tesco came

to Stalliam mey agreed not to hwe a butcher a

bakery or a fishmonger because these businesses

existed at me tinle But since me store opened

only the butcher remains in business Since the

Figure 3 A)lslalJ Market ill StaalJ

other two are out of business Tesco has added a

bakery and fIshmonger to the store

The Aberdeen Angus butcher was

interviewed in me iylsham Market proudly

displa1no- ribbons won at the Royal Norfolk b

Show (Figure 3) He c1ainls mat Aberdeen

-1ngus is me best beef and that its delicious

flavor is due to high fat content During the BSE

scare his sales actually rose due to his reputation

Like omers interviewed he believes the tainted

BSE meat mat set off me scare was inlported

and does not think me disease is in England He

also stated that in recent rears people are buying

more meats from butchers and it has cut into

supermarket sales

Ash Farm also had a pitch in jylsham

Market Pitch is me local term used indicating a

BC Vol 2 (2) 74

~

PIPES Good to Sell

b people working in conditions mee ting a organic farmers and a well-known Angus beef certain standard and who are paid a certain butcher Butcher shops suffered initially with the

wage When asked if Fair Trade was unfair to spread of supermarke t chain s th roughout

local producers the manage r responded simply England (Beckett 2011 MoretOn 2013 Pearson

that it was the stOres policy The manager also 2004) But BSE brought about a number of

said that MS is expanding organic foods due to socioeconomic consequences resulting in a increasing consumer demand The manager went renewed interest in butcher shops drawing in

on to say that while organic foods do not taste people concerned about the health and safe ty o f

any different than commercially grown foods meat products (Boyle 2006 Lowtllfope 2006)

they are considered healthier for consumers Consumers inten iewed believe the butchers

which is an issue important to their custOmers meat is obtained from local farmers Butcher He had no concerns about the health and safety shops changed their marketing strategie s

of tlle foods they sell Like Tesco )v[S adheres to recognizing they could market to a higher

all government regulations and stands behind income clientele by selling more expensive and

their name better quality mea ts (EDP 2006a 2006b 2006c

Roys of Wroxham supermarket takes a 2006d Starling 2006a 2006b) Some butchers

different marke ting approach empha sizing like the one in Stalllam diversified and added

locally produced foods The tOwn of Wroxham lunch counters

is large and located on the Broads The Since the BSE scare the European Union

research er intervi ewe d th e Ro ys ch eese and tlle state imposed regulations prohibiting the

d e p artment man age r He said th a t t he slaughter o f lives tock except at certified supermarket makes an effort to carry local slaughterhouses (DEFRA nd E ntec 2003 FSA

produce mea ts and other products In 2006 2004 2007 Hurter and 1Jnodu 200S RPA 2009

they advertised over 1000 locall made products Tulip and Michaels 2004) Butchers who raise

Like Tesco and MS they carry middle to lower and butcher their livestock must arrange fo r their

end meat cuts The cheese counter was tll e animals to be slaughtered at one o f these state largest of all tlle supermarkets visited by the certifi ed fac iliti e s So m e rur al butcher s

researcher having hundreds of varie ties The interviewed said they canno t verify if the

manage r stated he had no concerns about the carcasses re turned to them are the original live

health and sa fety of mea t products carried by animals sent to be slaughtered The rural

the store Stalllam butcher who used to work at a

The researcher observed that tl1ere is slaughterhouse claimed that mea t inspectors

qUite a bit o f overlap between butchers and stamped any carcass well-marbled with fat as

farmers who raise livestock Manv of tlle Sco ttish Beef regardless o f ItS provenance

butchers are farmers and man o f the farmers However traceability is one o f tlle strictes t EU

are butchers A total o f fiv~ butchers were requirements regulating the meat indu str y

interviewed the local Stalliam butcher the ru ral (DEFRA nd FSA 2004 2007 H utter and

Stalllam butcher a husband and wife team of Amodu 200S RPl- 2009)

73 _-i) 12 (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

The local Stalham butcher has an upscale

shop originally his fadlers The butcher stated

mat he competed wim Tesco by selling better

meat cuts teaming up with a baker adding a

lunch counter and catering parties bull-1S Tesco

expanded to offer hot lunches and prepared

foods it became harder to compete His

continued success is due to a loyal customer base

which was solidified br the BSE scare

Customers believe mat his meats come from

local farmers He does not raise livestock but

contracts wim local farmers Vhen Tesco came

to Stalliam mey agreed not to hwe a butcher a

bakery or a fishmonger because these businesses

existed at me tinle But since me store opened

only the butcher remains in business Since the

Figure 3 A)lslalJ Market ill StaalJ

other two are out of business Tesco has added a

bakery and fIshmonger to the store

The Aberdeen Angus butcher was

interviewed in me iylsham Market proudly

displa1no- ribbons won at the Royal Norfolk b

Show (Figure 3) He c1ainls mat Aberdeen

-1ngus is me best beef and that its delicious

flavor is due to high fat content During the BSE

scare his sales actually rose due to his reputation

Like omers interviewed he believes the tainted

BSE meat mat set off me scare was inlported

and does not think me disease is in England He

also stated that in recent rears people are buying

more meats from butchers and it has cut into

supermarket sales

Ash Farm also had a pitch in jylsham

Market Pitch is me local term used indicating a

BC Vol 2 (2) 74

PIPES Good to Sell

The local Stalham butcher has an upscale

shop originally his fadlers The butcher stated

mat he competed wim Tesco by selling better

meat cuts teaming up with a baker adding a

lunch counter and catering parties bull-1S Tesco

expanded to offer hot lunches and prepared

foods it became harder to compete His

continued success is due to a loyal customer base

which was solidified br the BSE scare

Customers believe mat his meats come from

local farmers He does not raise livestock but

contracts wim local farmers Vhen Tesco came

to Stalliam mey agreed not to hwe a butcher a

bakery or a fishmonger because these businesses

existed at me tinle But since me store opened

only the butcher remains in business Since the

Figure 3 A)lslalJ Market ill StaalJ

other two are out of business Tesco has added a

bakery and fIshmonger to the store

The Aberdeen Angus butcher was

interviewed in me iylsham Market proudly

displa1no- ribbons won at the Royal Norfolk b

Show (Figure 3) He c1ainls mat Aberdeen

-1ngus is me best beef and that its delicious

flavor is due to high fat content During the BSE

scare his sales actually rose due to his reputation

Like omers interviewed he believes the tainted

BSE meat mat set off me scare was inlported

and does not think me disease is in England He

also stated that in recent rears people are buying

more meats from butchers and it has cut into

supermarket sales

Ash Farm also had a pitch in jylsham

Market Pitch is me local term used indicating a

BC Vol 2 (2) 74

space in the market owned by a vendor The

owners sell organic meats in the market and to

butcher shops and from their farm They are

ery proud of having converted their property

to a certified organic farm But me husband

stated it had cost a lot taken nine years and had

not been a profitable decision In contrast to the

manager at MS he felt the organic market was

not going to increase because of the high costs

involved in mee ting the standards es tablished for

organic farmers which are passed on to me

consumer in higher meat prices Organic

farming is heavily regulated and requires years of

non-chemical uses on me land and higher costs

involved with feed (Hutter and Amodu 2008)

Both husband and wife stated that most of meir

customers are well informed and concerned

mough not necessarily affluent When asked if

dlere was a difference in taste between organic

and regular meats mel answered no Their middot hmiddot d d d dmiddotbUSl11ess nen er mcrease nor ecrease urmg

me BSE scare a fact dley attributed to their

reputation for producing quality meats They

said they do not sell organ meats because it is

banned by the Soils Association

The fmal vendor interviewee was a rural

Stalilam butcher who sells meat at hi s farm The

shop began in 2002 and has done ver) well since

opening The butcher keeps about forty head of

catde While he agreed that Angus beef tasted

best he felt rarer breeds also had good taste He

slaughters about one head of catde a week

middothich is what o ther butchers reported He also I I b f k H

raises pigS s aug ltermg a out our a wee e

aises a few lambs as well If he runs out he bumiddots them from another farmer There are seasoal

(~ffe rences in m ea t sales due to holidays One

le development is me impact of cooking

PIPES Good to Sell

shows on meat sales Gourmet cooks buy meats

for special dishes mer learn about from cooking

shows Certain cuts sell out quickly depending

on meats fearured on television For example

one week there was a run o f lamb shanks H e is

no t concerned about the safety and health of

No rfolk livestock Like ev er yo ne el se

interlewed he believes the BSE scare resulted

from imported bee f He mentioned having

considered converting to an organic farm but

found me time and the cost too great H e claims

women are behind the organic movement H e

thinks organic mea ts are good for people who

lie in heavily polluted areas Finall y- he

commented about butcher stands in town

markets say-ing that ther do an excellent

busine ss and are co mpetin g w e ll with

supermarkets

Livestock Farmers

Some Norfolk farmers have developed

new marketing strategies (produced In Norfolk

2005 DEFRA nd) Farms now entice tourists to

spend the dar doing old-fashioned farming

activities such as milking cows and goa ts making

sausage feeding livestock etc Some farms are

promoting themselves b raising rare breeds of

lives tock and poultr) while o ther farms are

banding toge ther and creating their own farmers

markets Still o mers promote organic meats and

vegetables This article stated that organic

farmers point out the high COS tS associated widl

convertmg over their farms The also realize

mat it is a limited marke t though there is a

documented rise in the sa le o f organic chickens

which they are tapping into Organic farms are

regulated bmiddot dl e Soils Association which has set

75 ~Er Vo 2 (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

high standards and which regularl) conducts will eventually prove English beef safe As far as

Spot inspecuons (Starling June 24 2006) consumers are concerned she said butcher

Because of av-ian flu scares in England the shops typically sell higher end meat cuts whereas

public has a greater trust in organic chickens supermarkets focus on the most popular mid-

Several informants said that they were put off range meat cuts She explained that consumers

of chicken and had svltched to mrke or shopping at butcher shops are villing to pay

organic chickens Tescos meat manager more for more expensIve meats She had no

confIrmed that there vas a noticeable drop in concerns about the health and safety of local

the sale of chickens in recent ears which he also meats

attributed to avian flu scares The pig farmer was interviewed at his

Two livestock farmers who raise animals farm He had a job working for the local feed

for wholesalers vere inten-iewed one raised mill and was involved in the creation of the pig

beef cattle the other pigs Both tall(ed about the scheme The idea was simple Find ten to fifteen

decline in livestock production nationally as well farmers to raise pigs for the company The

as how increasing food scares has impacted their farmer vas paid to raise and feed their livestock

industn The beef farmer was inten-iewed at the ranging between 500-1000 head They gave the

Royal NorfoUz ShOv The beef farmer raises farmers the pigs the feed and paid the veterinary

Angus beef in Harlings Hill and is a bills The company then sold the mature pigs to

representative of the Womens Farm Union the slaughterhouse It was a big fillancial success

(WFU nd) The union supports women farmers The model is used today by the poultry indus try

on a local level though it is now an international The farmer breeds and raises pigs for a company

organization She spoke about raising Angus that markets 1000 - 2000 pigs a day throughout

beef cattle and insisted their meat has the filleSt England A pig farmer is expected to get 23

taste and quality texture Her family used to have litters a year A sow is bred a total of six times

a stand in one of the local town markets but the litter increasing in size each time Her meat is

found consumers were interested in bener more no good by the end but the rerurn is worth it

expensive cutS of beef than they offered for Like beef it turns out that the best pork has the

sale They typically sold about 25 percent of highest fat content The pig farmer stated that

their meats that they brought to the market She the publics obsession with lean meats is the

did not explain why they didnt change the range downfall of good tasting meat When asked

of cuts they offered for sale They decided the about the valious scares he stated that he did

cost of setting up made it unprofitable and so not believe they were a problem in Norfolk

they now sell strictly to distributors Their

business did not suffer at all during the BSE Consumers

scare because of their reputation She stated that

most beef p roducers beliee the tain ted BSE Stalham consumers are divided between

beef came from ou tside England and tl1at is Vh tllose who resent the loss of local businesses

meat providers support traceability believing it and tllose who appreciate the convenience price

L30 II II 2 (2) 76

and variety o ffered by the supermarket

Unhappy residents support local shops ke

among which is the butcher shop The local

Stalllam butcher was able to stay in business long

enough to benefit from consumer anxiety about

the health and sanitation of meats He stared that the resurgence in his business is partly due

to rhe publicS concern over these issues Burcher

shops throughout England have become

commercial anchors in tOwns and Tillages

Consumers believe they offer quality local meat

products with better taste and ftner texture than

those from the supermarket Furthermore

butcher shops post the name and location of the

farm which reared the animal Traceabiliry is an

important element in reassuring the consumer

that the meat is locally obtained

Individual consumers in terviewed came from various economic educational and social

backgrounds The intenTiewee sample included

Stalliam natives and transplants vith most of them identifying as inglo-Saxon The included artists priests a cleaning lady h~usewies business women and business men Some were

educated and affluent others poor Witll little

education Some people were commoners and others elites rerms which do not necessarily

correlate with income bur rather Vitll social

class Almost alt of the people interviewed

bought tlleir meats from local supermarkets

and or butcher shops Intenmiddotiew questions

focused on social factors influencing where

people bought their meats such as the threat of

food scares healtll concerns food avoidances

and taste In addition attention vas given to the

conflict between those who support the

supermarket and those who resent its presence

PIPES Good 10 Sell

One consequence of speaking to people 111 groups is how they influence each others

responses and behaviors This happened

noticeably on three occasions The first vas

during a charity tea that tOok place at the local

halt Charity teas are sponsored by various groups to raise money for special causes (eg

breast cancer research) and often use the local

halt as the venue Halls are tlle fortified homes

or castles of tlle local lords vho once ruled over

tlle land Today halls are bought and sold

regularly and current residents do not necessarily

have a blood tie to tlle tOwn Howe~er there is

an expectation tllat residents will be involved

with local charity emiddotents Such was the case in

Stalham where rhe author met the lady of the hall at a tea hosted on behalf of tlle local

Anglican and Baptist Churches The lady of tlle

Stalliam hall was uncomfortable when asked where she bought her meats She explained that

her family bought live animals from local farms which they tllen had butchered into meat cuts

In other words tlley did choose a different path

for selecting their meats on which was typical of their social class The aurhors question was

considered inappropriate and so she apologized The familys main concern Vas the healrh and

quality of the meats tlley ate

The charity tea was anended by local

women from both churches tl13t day Some

women from tlle Baptist Church volunteer at a

local cafe known as the Haven which serves the

poor Four talkative ladies discussed how where

and why they bought meat products All four

omen attend the same church and olunteer at

tlle Haven Three said they usually buy meats

from Tesco because of price -nother woman

insisred thar while Tescos meat was fine she only

77 rFl I 2 (2)

O

---------

PIPES Good to Sell

bought meat from the butcher Then she added she buys bacon and ham from Tesco It seemed

this comment was made for the benefit of the

other women She went on ro say that willie BSE

upset people it really did not influence their meat con sumption but made them realize the

importance of traceability The bird flu eent on

the other hand put people off chicken for a

while

The second occasion rook place at the

Kingflsher Hotel during a Ladies dinner sponsored by the Womens Instirute a national

organization for women (XI1 nd) During this

event the author sat across from d1ree ladies

One of them was an elderly lady a veteran of

the Second World War who worked all her life Another lady was in her late fifties also from a

working class background And the third ladr

was a local artist from a wealthy background

The latter two are friends Each lady had a

slighdy different opinion about Tesco and the Stalham butcher The artist lives in anod1er rown

but drives to Stalham to shop While she buys

manr things at Tesco she buys her meat from the butcher because she liked ro suppOrt local

businesses and because the quality of meat products is excellent and sa fe The od1er two

ladies buy their meats at Tesco The elder

woman is on fLed income has no car and rarely

shops at other supermarkets Price is her main

concern When asked if she ever shopped at the butcher she answered no The reason she gave

was that he has a bad attitude The artist then

restated that the butcher offered good service

and the other lady agreed However she insisted that he has a bad attirude with which the artist

agreed The dllid woman said the quality of

Tescos meat was pretty good though the butchers meat was better

The third occasion happened at a friends home in the presence of a third person Both

said they shopped at Tesco and a supermarket

on d1e outskirts of Norwich They vere asked hmv they reacted ro the food scares in the news

The guest stated dnt as a result of salmonella

and avian flu he never eats chicken When asked

if there were exceptions to dus rule such as

eating at restaurants or at friends he said no However the hostess quickly corrected him

pointing out that she fed it ro him regularly and

that he never objected He acknowledged this

was true In a later conversation the wife of the

local priest explained the mans changed statement to the author it would be considered

rude to avoid eating a meat dish served by a

hos tess This suggests that peer pressure

sometimes influences what people think do and

sal with regard ro their diets

The residents of Stalham ho were

interviewed by the author are somewhat divided over d1e presence of Tesco and its proposed

expansion Initially many people resented Tesco

because of the potential impact on local businesses Some individuals believe the bakery

and d1e fishmonger folded because of Tesco

(Figure 4) The authors research inro the maner

revealed that this may be a nUsunderstanding In

an interview with the mayor of Stalham the

mayor reported that the baker already had plans

ro merge vith the butcher shop and that the

fishmongers business collapsed due to a fanlliy crisis (Stalham Mayor 2006 personal

communication) The shop had been managed by his daughter for a while but that she decided

~B[) 01 2 (2 78

bull

to pursue another career and he was unable to and stated that certain meats were in fact bought

manage the business himself at the supermarket such as bacon and ham

In all sixteen consumers were Some people changed their minds about

intervieved on one-to-one basis About half of the value of Tesco One elderly middle class lady

the interviewees bu meat at the butcher shop said that she was originally against Tesco but that

and at Tesco a quarter reported they buy now she is happy it is there She and her

everything from the butcher and another husband have a car so they are not dependent on

quarter buy meats only from Tesco Certain Tesco on Sundays She spoke at length about

meats like bacon ham and chicken are bought Tescos community relations effort when they

at Tesco either because the butcher doesnt carry came to Sta1l1am They bought new instruments

those cuts or because there is no perceptible for the Stalliam brass band and paid to have the

difference in taste to justify his higher cost All Fire Hall Museum restored On the other hand

of the interviewees buy some food items other she complained that the changed the roadway

than meat products as well as other household through town so that the main road now runs

goods at the supermarket and agree that it is directly in front of the store avoiding the main

convenient and the prices are good Five street in town Vhile she buys other things at

informants said they buy meat only from tl1e Tesco she does not buy her meats there

butcher regardless of higher prices because it is preferring the local butcher shop

important to support local businesses Hmveer The clienteles of Tesco and the tWO town

when asked if tl1ey bought any meats at all from butchers represent two ends of the status j

the supermarkets two informants reconsidered continuum Conversations with informants

made it clear tl1at meat is an indicator of social

PIPES Good to Sell

Table 1 Results o[ taste test COIIIPCllfl1g tJe sallie cut of meajiml the Stabam btltciJer slop alld Tesco Slipermarket

Butcher Meat Jtlicme~ Taste Tenderness

Excelient 4 29q~ 4 ~9~middot 0 145~gto

Good 9 640 9 M~ o 10 71 0Poor 1 1 7deg0 145~

Tota 14 iOO~ 4 1 00deg~ 14 1loa~

5npelrnarket Jhat Jlllcmes~ Taste Terdemess

~ cExceHent I ]7~~ J 0 200 Good 6 40 ~Olto ~ 3G-o

-I 0 HPoor J_~ -oSlt )J 0 67C~

Total as iOOcentmiddot~ 100 100

79 ~GLI Vol ~ (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

and political status among town residents The the potential health risks due to infectious

two butchers described their clienteles as disease but that they do not consider it a major

consisting of wealthier socially conscious upper concern Informants generally believe one or all

class residents The- also said that the butcher of the following asse rtion s First meat

shop itself is a place embedded with social purchased from local butchers comes from local

memories reminding people of a time when livestock which is either raised by the butcher or

everyone knew each other and life was less obtained bv him from local farmers and that it is

s tre ss ful They claim that for those who can good quality Second since all meats have the

afford the butchers prices there is an aesthetic point of origin indicated on the package they

pleasure in entering a small owner-operated can buy only local mea ts which they believe to

shop Their customer relations approach is to be safe from disease Third by the time o fficial

give personal attention to the shopper and offer notification of contamination happens chances

advice about which meat cut is appropriate for a are it is too late to do anything about it None of

particular dish The local butchers stated that the informants were particularly concerned with

their clientele tend to be transplams to Stalham the potential contamination of locally purchased

wIllie the supermarket clientele consists of town meats Most of the informants stated that they

natives had altered their meat consumption patterns as a

s lie tele lSt fee 0 e Is result of food scares However an occasional Te sco c n cons s 0 v r nee observation would prompt a comment aboutin tow n including some of the butchers clients some impacts of food scares The authorand people from other towns To the wealthier commented to a local priest on ho1 common informants of this study Tesco symbolizes the turkey appeared in res taurants The informantdestruction of the intimate shopping experience explained that turkey had been a holiday foodThey claim ti1at tile impersonal atmosphere of

the store and the general indifference of most until the fo od scares began He stated that each of the major meats have been associated vithemployees leave the shopper to focus on their specific scares including beef pork lamb and purchases They conceded ti1at though the chicken and that during those times many people aestiletic experience is lacking it is replaced by

convenience price and a great variety o f foods felt theY might have to become vege tarians

Jl of tile informants who eat fish bought them Because turkey was never associated with a food scare he said people began to eat it as anat Tescos and were happy with the fi shmonger

who served them The Stalham Tesco has found alternative meat When the author pointed out that Hoof and Mouth disease has no effect on a formula that seems to please both camps with

the establishment of a fish counter Repeatedly humans the priest responded that people shy

this feature was mentioned as a source of awamiddot from diseased animals Three informants

shopping pleasure and always because the stated that in the past they had temporarily

fishmonger was personable and knowledgeable avoided meats as sociated with food scares sometimes up to a m onth in length after a food

Interviews with consumers of meat scare was revealed in the press assuming that

products indicated that most people are aware of

80

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

PIPES Good to Sell

high standards and which regularl) conducts will eventually prove English beef safe As far as

Spot inspecuons (Starling June 24 2006) consumers are concerned she said butcher

Because of av-ian flu scares in England the shops typically sell higher end meat cuts whereas

public has a greater trust in organic chickens supermarkets focus on the most popular mid-

Several informants said that they were put off range meat cuts She explained that consumers

of chicken and had svltched to mrke or shopping at butcher shops are villing to pay

organic chickens Tescos meat manager more for more expensIve meats She had no

confIrmed that there vas a noticeable drop in concerns about the health and safety of local

the sale of chickens in recent ears which he also meats

attributed to avian flu scares The pig farmer was interviewed at his

Two livestock farmers who raise animals farm He had a job working for the local feed

for wholesalers vere inten-iewed one raised mill and was involved in the creation of the pig

beef cattle the other pigs Both tall(ed about the scheme The idea was simple Find ten to fifteen

decline in livestock production nationally as well farmers to raise pigs for the company The

as how increasing food scares has impacted their farmer vas paid to raise and feed their livestock

industn The beef farmer was inten-iewed at the ranging between 500-1000 head They gave the

Royal NorfoUz ShOv The beef farmer raises farmers the pigs the feed and paid the veterinary

Angus beef in Harlings Hill and is a bills The company then sold the mature pigs to

representative of the Womens Farm Union the slaughterhouse It was a big fillancial success

(WFU nd) The union supports women farmers The model is used today by the poultry indus try

on a local level though it is now an international The farmer breeds and raises pigs for a company

organization She spoke about raising Angus that markets 1000 - 2000 pigs a day throughout

beef cattle and insisted their meat has the filleSt England A pig farmer is expected to get 23

taste and quality texture Her family used to have litters a year A sow is bred a total of six times

a stand in one of the local town markets but the litter increasing in size each time Her meat is

found consumers were interested in bener more no good by the end but the rerurn is worth it

expensive cutS of beef than they offered for Like beef it turns out that the best pork has the

sale They typically sold about 25 percent of highest fat content The pig farmer stated that

their meats that they brought to the market She the publics obsession with lean meats is the

did not explain why they didnt change the range downfall of good tasting meat When asked

of cuts they offered for sale They decided the about the valious scares he stated that he did

cost of setting up made it unprofitable and so not believe they were a problem in Norfolk

they now sell strictly to distributors Their

business did not suffer at all during the BSE Consumers

scare because of their reputation She stated that

most beef p roducers beliee the tain ted BSE Stalham consumers are divided between

beef came from ou tside England and tl1at is Vh tllose who resent the loss of local businesses

meat providers support traceability believing it and tllose who appreciate the convenience price

L30 II II 2 (2) 76

and variety o ffered by the supermarket

Unhappy residents support local shops ke

among which is the butcher shop The local

Stalllam butcher was able to stay in business long

enough to benefit from consumer anxiety about

the health and sanitation of meats He stared that the resurgence in his business is partly due

to rhe publicS concern over these issues Burcher

shops throughout England have become

commercial anchors in tOwns and Tillages

Consumers believe they offer quality local meat

products with better taste and ftner texture than

those from the supermarket Furthermore

butcher shops post the name and location of the

farm which reared the animal Traceabiliry is an

important element in reassuring the consumer

that the meat is locally obtained

Individual consumers in terviewed came from various economic educational and social

backgrounds The intenTiewee sample included

Stalliam natives and transplants vith most of them identifying as inglo-Saxon The included artists priests a cleaning lady h~usewies business women and business men Some were

educated and affluent others poor Witll little

education Some people were commoners and others elites rerms which do not necessarily

correlate with income bur rather Vitll social

class Almost alt of the people interviewed

bought tlleir meats from local supermarkets

and or butcher shops Intenmiddotiew questions

focused on social factors influencing where

people bought their meats such as the threat of

food scares healtll concerns food avoidances

and taste In addition attention vas given to the

conflict between those who support the

supermarket and those who resent its presence

PIPES Good 10 Sell

One consequence of speaking to people 111 groups is how they influence each others

responses and behaviors This happened

noticeably on three occasions The first vas

during a charity tea that tOok place at the local

halt Charity teas are sponsored by various groups to raise money for special causes (eg

breast cancer research) and often use the local

halt as the venue Halls are tlle fortified homes

or castles of tlle local lords vho once ruled over

tlle land Today halls are bought and sold

regularly and current residents do not necessarily

have a blood tie to tlle tOwn Howe~er there is

an expectation tllat residents will be involved

with local charity emiddotents Such was the case in

Stalham where rhe author met the lady of the hall at a tea hosted on behalf of tlle local

Anglican and Baptist Churches The lady of tlle

Stalliam hall was uncomfortable when asked where she bought her meats She explained that

her family bought live animals from local farms which they tllen had butchered into meat cuts

In other words tlley did choose a different path

for selecting their meats on which was typical of their social class The aurhors question was

considered inappropriate and so she apologized The familys main concern Vas the healrh and

quality of the meats tlley ate

The charity tea was anended by local

women from both churches tl13t day Some

women from tlle Baptist Church volunteer at a

local cafe known as the Haven which serves the

poor Four talkative ladies discussed how where

and why they bought meat products All four

omen attend the same church and olunteer at

tlle Haven Three said they usually buy meats

from Tesco because of price -nother woman

insisred thar while Tescos meat was fine she only

77 rFl I 2 (2)

O

---------

PIPES Good to Sell

bought meat from the butcher Then she added she buys bacon and ham from Tesco It seemed

this comment was made for the benefit of the

other women She went on ro say that willie BSE

upset people it really did not influence their meat con sumption but made them realize the

importance of traceability The bird flu eent on

the other hand put people off chicken for a

while

The second occasion rook place at the

Kingflsher Hotel during a Ladies dinner sponsored by the Womens Instirute a national

organization for women (XI1 nd) During this

event the author sat across from d1ree ladies

One of them was an elderly lady a veteran of

the Second World War who worked all her life Another lady was in her late fifties also from a

working class background And the third ladr

was a local artist from a wealthy background

The latter two are friends Each lady had a

slighdy different opinion about Tesco and the Stalham butcher The artist lives in anod1er rown

but drives to Stalham to shop While she buys

manr things at Tesco she buys her meat from the butcher because she liked ro suppOrt local

businesses and because the quality of meat products is excellent and sa fe The od1er two

ladies buy their meats at Tesco The elder

woman is on fLed income has no car and rarely

shops at other supermarkets Price is her main

concern When asked if she ever shopped at the butcher she answered no The reason she gave

was that he has a bad attitude The artist then

restated that the butcher offered good service

and the other lady agreed However she insisted that he has a bad attirude with which the artist

agreed The dllid woman said the quality of

Tescos meat was pretty good though the butchers meat was better

The third occasion happened at a friends home in the presence of a third person Both

said they shopped at Tesco and a supermarket

on d1e outskirts of Norwich They vere asked hmv they reacted ro the food scares in the news

The guest stated dnt as a result of salmonella

and avian flu he never eats chicken When asked

if there were exceptions to dus rule such as

eating at restaurants or at friends he said no However the hostess quickly corrected him

pointing out that she fed it ro him regularly and

that he never objected He acknowledged this

was true In a later conversation the wife of the

local priest explained the mans changed statement to the author it would be considered

rude to avoid eating a meat dish served by a

hos tess This suggests that peer pressure

sometimes influences what people think do and

sal with regard ro their diets

The residents of Stalham ho were

interviewed by the author are somewhat divided over d1e presence of Tesco and its proposed

expansion Initially many people resented Tesco

because of the potential impact on local businesses Some individuals believe the bakery

and d1e fishmonger folded because of Tesco

(Figure 4) The authors research inro the maner

revealed that this may be a nUsunderstanding In

an interview with the mayor of Stalham the

mayor reported that the baker already had plans

ro merge vith the butcher shop and that the

fishmongers business collapsed due to a fanlliy crisis (Stalham Mayor 2006 personal

communication) The shop had been managed by his daughter for a while but that she decided

~B[) 01 2 (2 78

bull

to pursue another career and he was unable to and stated that certain meats were in fact bought

manage the business himself at the supermarket such as bacon and ham

In all sixteen consumers were Some people changed their minds about

intervieved on one-to-one basis About half of the value of Tesco One elderly middle class lady

the interviewees bu meat at the butcher shop said that she was originally against Tesco but that

and at Tesco a quarter reported they buy now she is happy it is there She and her

everything from the butcher and another husband have a car so they are not dependent on

quarter buy meats only from Tesco Certain Tesco on Sundays She spoke at length about

meats like bacon ham and chicken are bought Tescos community relations effort when they

at Tesco either because the butcher doesnt carry came to Sta1l1am They bought new instruments

those cuts or because there is no perceptible for the Stalliam brass band and paid to have the

difference in taste to justify his higher cost All Fire Hall Museum restored On the other hand

of the interviewees buy some food items other she complained that the changed the roadway

than meat products as well as other household through town so that the main road now runs

goods at the supermarket and agree that it is directly in front of the store avoiding the main

convenient and the prices are good Five street in town Vhile she buys other things at

informants said they buy meat only from tl1e Tesco she does not buy her meats there

butcher regardless of higher prices because it is preferring the local butcher shop

important to support local businesses Hmveer The clienteles of Tesco and the tWO town

when asked if tl1ey bought any meats at all from butchers represent two ends of the status j

the supermarkets two informants reconsidered continuum Conversations with informants

made it clear tl1at meat is an indicator of social

PIPES Good to Sell

Table 1 Results o[ taste test COIIIPCllfl1g tJe sallie cut of meajiml the Stabam btltciJer slop alld Tesco Slipermarket

Butcher Meat Jtlicme~ Taste Tenderness

Excelient 4 29q~ 4 ~9~middot 0 145~gto

Good 9 640 9 M~ o 10 71 0Poor 1 1 7deg0 145~

Tota 14 iOO~ 4 1 00deg~ 14 1loa~

5npelrnarket Jhat Jlllcmes~ Taste Terdemess

~ cExceHent I ]7~~ J 0 200 Good 6 40 ~Olto ~ 3G-o

-I 0 HPoor J_~ -oSlt )J 0 67C~

Total as iOOcentmiddot~ 100 100

79 ~GLI Vol ~ (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

and political status among town residents The the potential health risks due to infectious

two butchers described their clienteles as disease but that they do not consider it a major

consisting of wealthier socially conscious upper concern Informants generally believe one or all

class residents The- also said that the butcher of the following asse rtion s First meat

shop itself is a place embedded with social purchased from local butchers comes from local

memories reminding people of a time when livestock which is either raised by the butcher or

everyone knew each other and life was less obtained bv him from local farmers and that it is

s tre ss ful They claim that for those who can good quality Second since all meats have the

afford the butchers prices there is an aesthetic point of origin indicated on the package they

pleasure in entering a small owner-operated can buy only local mea ts which they believe to

shop Their customer relations approach is to be safe from disease Third by the time o fficial

give personal attention to the shopper and offer notification of contamination happens chances

advice about which meat cut is appropriate for a are it is too late to do anything about it None of

particular dish The local butchers stated that the informants were particularly concerned with

their clientele tend to be transplams to Stalham the potential contamination of locally purchased

wIllie the supermarket clientele consists of town meats Most of the informants stated that they

natives had altered their meat consumption patterns as a

s lie tele lSt fee 0 e Is result of food scares However an occasional Te sco c n cons s 0 v r nee observation would prompt a comment aboutin tow n including some of the butchers clients some impacts of food scares The authorand people from other towns To the wealthier commented to a local priest on ho1 common informants of this study Tesco symbolizes the turkey appeared in res taurants The informantdestruction of the intimate shopping experience explained that turkey had been a holiday foodThey claim ti1at tile impersonal atmosphere of

the store and the general indifference of most until the fo od scares began He stated that each of the major meats have been associated vithemployees leave the shopper to focus on their specific scares including beef pork lamb and purchases They conceded ti1at though the chicken and that during those times many people aestiletic experience is lacking it is replaced by

convenience price and a great variety o f foods felt theY might have to become vege tarians

Jl of tile informants who eat fish bought them Because turkey was never associated with a food scare he said people began to eat it as anat Tescos and were happy with the fi shmonger

who served them The Stalham Tesco has found alternative meat When the author pointed out that Hoof and Mouth disease has no effect on a formula that seems to please both camps with

the establishment of a fish counter Repeatedly humans the priest responded that people shy

this feature was mentioned as a source of awamiddot from diseased animals Three informants

shopping pleasure and always because the stated that in the past they had temporarily

fishmonger was personable and knowledgeable avoided meats as sociated with food scares sometimes up to a m onth in length after a food

Interviews with consumers of meat scare was revealed in the press assuming that

products indicated that most people are aware of

80

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

and variety o ffered by the supermarket

Unhappy residents support local shops ke

among which is the butcher shop The local

Stalllam butcher was able to stay in business long

enough to benefit from consumer anxiety about

the health and sanitation of meats He stared that the resurgence in his business is partly due

to rhe publicS concern over these issues Burcher

shops throughout England have become

commercial anchors in tOwns and Tillages

Consumers believe they offer quality local meat

products with better taste and ftner texture than

those from the supermarket Furthermore

butcher shops post the name and location of the

farm which reared the animal Traceabiliry is an

important element in reassuring the consumer

that the meat is locally obtained

Individual consumers in terviewed came from various economic educational and social

backgrounds The intenTiewee sample included

Stalliam natives and transplants vith most of them identifying as inglo-Saxon The included artists priests a cleaning lady h~usewies business women and business men Some were

educated and affluent others poor Witll little

education Some people were commoners and others elites rerms which do not necessarily

correlate with income bur rather Vitll social

class Almost alt of the people interviewed

bought tlleir meats from local supermarkets

and or butcher shops Intenmiddotiew questions

focused on social factors influencing where

people bought their meats such as the threat of

food scares healtll concerns food avoidances

and taste In addition attention vas given to the

conflict between those who support the

supermarket and those who resent its presence

PIPES Good 10 Sell

One consequence of speaking to people 111 groups is how they influence each others

responses and behaviors This happened

noticeably on three occasions The first vas

during a charity tea that tOok place at the local

halt Charity teas are sponsored by various groups to raise money for special causes (eg

breast cancer research) and often use the local

halt as the venue Halls are tlle fortified homes

or castles of tlle local lords vho once ruled over

tlle land Today halls are bought and sold

regularly and current residents do not necessarily

have a blood tie to tlle tOwn Howe~er there is

an expectation tllat residents will be involved

with local charity emiddotents Such was the case in

Stalham where rhe author met the lady of the hall at a tea hosted on behalf of tlle local

Anglican and Baptist Churches The lady of tlle

Stalliam hall was uncomfortable when asked where she bought her meats She explained that

her family bought live animals from local farms which they tllen had butchered into meat cuts

In other words tlley did choose a different path

for selecting their meats on which was typical of their social class The aurhors question was

considered inappropriate and so she apologized The familys main concern Vas the healrh and

quality of the meats tlley ate

The charity tea was anended by local

women from both churches tl13t day Some

women from tlle Baptist Church volunteer at a

local cafe known as the Haven which serves the

poor Four talkative ladies discussed how where

and why they bought meat products All four

omen attend the same church and olunteer at

tlle Haven Three said they usually buy meats

from Tesco because of price -nother woman

insisred thar while Tescos meat was fine she only

77 rFl I 2 (2)

O

---------

PIPES Good to Sell

bought meat from the butcher Then she added she buys bacon and ham from Tesco It seemed

this comment was made for the benefit of the

other women She went on ro say that willie BSE

upset people it really did not influence their meat con sumption but made them realize the

importance of traceability The bird flu eent on

the other hand put people off chicken for a

while

The second occasion rook place at the

Kingflsher Hotel during a Ladies dinner sponsored by the Womens Instirute a national

organization for women (XI1 nd) During this

event the author sat across from d1ree ladies

One of them was an elderly lady a veteran of

the Second World War who worked all her life Another lady was in her late fifties also from a

working class background And the third ladr

was a local artist from a wealthy background

The latter two are friends Each lady had a

slighdy different opinion about Tesco and the Stalham butcher The artist lives in anod1er rown

but drives to Stalham to shop While she buys

manr things at Tesco she buys her meat from the butcher because she liked ro suppOrt local

businesses and because the quality of meat products is excellent and sa fe The od1er two

ladies buy their meats at Tesco The elder

woman is on fLed income has no car and rarely

shops at other supermarkets Price is her main

concern When asked if she ever shopped at the butcher she answered no The reason she gave

was that he has a bad attitude The artist then

restated that the butcher offered good service

and the other lady agreed However she insisted that he has a bad attirude with which the artist

agreed The dllid woman said the quality of

Tescos meat was pretty good though the butchers meat was better

The third occasion happened at a friends home in the presence of a third person Both

said they shopped at Tesco and a supermarket

on d1e outskirts of Norwich They vere asked hmv they reacted ro the food scares in the news

The guest stated dnt as a result of salmonella

and avian flu he never eats chicken When asked

if there were exceptions to dus rule such as

eating at restaurants or at friends he said no However the hostess quickly corrected him

pointing out that she fed it ro him regularly and

that he never objected He acknowledged this

was true In a later conversation the wife of the

local priest explained the mans changed statement to the author it would be considered

rude to avoid eating a meat dish served by a

hos tess This suggests that peer pressure

sometimes influences what people think do and

sal with regard ro their diets

The residents of Stalham ho were

interviewed by the author are somewhat divided over d1e presence of Tesco and its proposed

expansion Initially many people resented Tesco

because of the potential impact on local businesses Some individuals believe the bakery

and d1e fishmonger folded because of Tesco

(Figure 4) The authors research inro the maner

revealed that this may be a nUsunderstanding In

an interview with the mayor of Stalham the

mayor reported that the baker already had plans

ro merge vith the butcher shop and that the

fishmongers business collapsed due to a fanlliy crisis (Stalham Mayor 2006 personal

communication) The shop had been managed by his daughter for a while but that she decided

~B[) 01 2 (2 78

bull

to pursue another career and he was unable to and stated that certain meats were in fact bought

manage the business himself at the supermarket such as bacon and ham

In all sixteen consumers were Some people changed their minds about

intervieved on one-to-one basis About half of the value of Tesco One elderly middle class lady

the interviewees bu meat at the butcher shop said that she was originally against Tesco but that

and at Tesco a quarter reported they buy now she is happy it is there She and her

everything from the butcher and another husband have a car so they are not dependent on

quarter buy meats only from Tesco Certain Tesco on Sundays She spoke at length about

meats like bacon ham and chicken are bought Tescos community relations effort when they

at Tesco either because the butcher doesnt carry came to Sta1l1am They bought new instruments

those cuts or because there is no perceptible for the Stalliam brass band and paid to have the

difference in taste to justify his higher cost All Fire Hall Museum restored On the other hand

of the interviewees buy some food items other she complained that the changed the roadway

than meat products as well as other household through town so that the main road now runs

goods at the supermarket and agree that it is directly in front of the store avoiding the main

convenient and the prices are good Five street in town Vhile she buys other things at

informants said they buy meat only from tl1e Tesco she does not buy her meats there

butcher regardless of higher prices because it is preferring the local butcher shop

important to support local businesses Hmveer The clienteles of Tesco and the tWO town

when asked if tl1ey bought any meats at all from butchers represent two ends of the status j

the supermarkets two informants reconsidered continuum Conversations with informants

made it clear tl1at meat is an indicator of social

PIPES Good to Sell

Table 1 Results o[ taste test COIIIPCllfl1g tJe sallie cut of meajiml the Stabam btltciJer slop alld Tesco Slipermarket

Butcher Meat Jtlicme~ Taste Tenderness

Excelient 4 29q~ 4 ~9~middot 0 145~gto

Good 9 640 9 M~ o 10 71 0Poor 1 1 7deg0 145~

Tota 14 iOO~ 4 1 00deg~ 14 1loa~

5npelrnarket Jhat Jlllcmes~ Taste Terdemess

~ cExceHent I ]7~~ J 0 200 Good 6 40 ~Olto ~ 3G-o

-I 0 HPoor J_~ -oSlt )J 0 67C~

Total as iOOcentmiddot~ 100 100

79 ~GLI Vol ~ (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

and political status among town residents The the potential health risks due to infectious

two butchers described their clienteles as disease but that they do not consider it a major

consisting of wealthier socially conscious upper concern Informants generally believe one or all

class residents The- also said that the butcher of the following asse rtion s First meat

shop itself is a place embedded with social purchased from local butchers comes from local

memories reminding people of a time when livestock which is either raised by the butcher or

everyone knew each other and life was less obtained bv him from local farmers and that it is

s tre ss ful They claim that for those who can good quality Second since all meats have the

afford the butchers prices there is an aesthetic point of origin indicated on the package they

pleasure in entering a small owner-operated can buy only local mea ts which they believe to

shop Their customer relations approach is to be safe from disease Third by the time o fficial

give personal attention to the shopper and offer notification of contamination happens chances

advice about which meat cut is appropriate for a are it is too late to do anything about it None of

particular dish The local butchers stated that the informants were particularly concerned with

their clientele tend to be transplams to Stalham the potential contamination of locally purchased

wIllie the supermarket clientele consists of town meats Most of the informants stated that they

natives had altered their meat consumption patterns as a

s lie tele lSt fee 0 e Is result of food scares However an occasional Te sco c n cons s 0 v r nee observation would prompt a comment aboutin tow n including some of the butchers clients some impacts of food scares The authorand people from other towns To the wealthier commented to a local priest on ho1 common informants of this study Tesco symbolizes the turkey appeared in res taurants The informantdestruction of the intimate shopping experience explained that turkey had been a holiday foodThey claim ti1at tile impersonal atmosphere of

the store and the general indifference of most until the fo od scares began He stated that each of the major meats have been associated vithemployees leave the shopper to focus on their specific scares including beef pork lamb and purchases They conceded ti1at though the chicken and that during those times many people aestiletic experience is lacking it is replaced by

convenience price and a great variety o f foods felt theY might have to become vege tarians

Jl of tile informants who eat fish bought them Because turkey was never associated with a food scare he said people began to eat it as anat Tescos and were happy with the fi shmonger

who served them The Stalham Tesco has found alternative meat When the author pointed out that Hoof and Mouth disease has no effect on a formula that seems to please both camps with

the establishment of a fish counter Repeatedly humans the priest responded that people shy

this feature was mentioned as a source of awamiddot from diseased animals Three informants

shopping pleasure and always because the stated that in the past they had temporarily

fishmonger was personable and knowledgeable avoided meats as sociated with food scares sometimes up to a m onth in length after a food

Interviews with consumers of meat scare was revealed in the press assuming that

products indicated that most people are aware of

80

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

---------

PIPES Good to Sell

bought meat from the butcher Then she added she buys bacon and ham from Tesco It seemed

this comment was made for the benefit of the

other women She went on ro say that willie BSE

upset people it really did not influence their meat con sumption but made them realize the

importance of traceability The bird flu eent on

the other hand put people off chicken for a

while

The second occasion rook place at the

Kingflsher Hotel during a Ladies dinner sponsored by the Womens Instirute a national

organization for women (XI1 nd) During this

event the author sat across from d1ree ladies

One of them was an elderly lady a veteran of

the Second World War who worked all her life Another lady was in her late fifties also from a

working class background And the third ladr

was a local artist from a wealthy background

The latter two are friends Each lady had a

slighdy different opinion about Tesco and the Stalham butcher The artist lives in anod1er rown

but drives to Stalham to shop While she buys

manr things at Tesco she buys her meat from the butcher because she liked ro suppOrt local

businesses and because the quality of meat products is excellent and sa fe The od1er two

ladies buy their meats at Tesco The elder

woman is on fLed income has no car and rarely

shops at other supermarkets Price is her main

concern When asked if she ever shopped at the butcher she answered no The reason she gave

was that he has a bad attitude The artist then

restated that the butcher offered good service

and the other lady agreed However she insisted that he has a bad attirude with which the artist

agreed The dllid woman said the quality of

Tescos meat was pretty good though the butchers meat was better

The third occasion happened at a friends home in the presence of a third person Both

said they shopped at Tesco and a supermarket

on d1e outskirts of Norwich They vere asked hmv they reacted ro the food scares in the news

The guest stated dnt as a result of salmonella

and avian flu he never eats chicken When asked

if there were exceptions to dus rule such as

eating at restaurants or at friends he said no However the hostess quickly corrected him

pointing out that she fed it ro him regularly and

that he never objected He acknowledged this

was true In a later conversation the wife of the

local priest explained the mans changed statement to the author it would be considered

rude to avoid eating a meat dish served by a

hos tess This suggests that peer pressure

sometimes influences what people think do and

sal with regard ro their diets

The residents of Stalham ho were

interviewed by the author are somewhat divided over d1e presence of Tesco and its proposed

expansion Initially many people resented Tesco

because of the potential impact on local businesses Some individuals believe the bakery

and d1e fishmonger folded because of Tesco

(Figure 4) The authors research inro the maner

revealed that this may be a nUsunderstanding In

an interview with the mayor of Stalham the

mayor reported that the baker already had plans

ro merge vith the butcher shop and that the

fishmongers business collapsed due to a fanlliy crisis (Stalham Mayor 2006 personal

communication) The shop had been managed by his daughter for a while but that she decided

~B[) 01 2 (2 78

bull

to pursue another career and he was unable to and stated that certain meats were in fact bought

manage the business himself at the supermarket such as bacon and ham

In all sixteen consumers were Some people changed their minds about

intervieved on one-to-one basis About half of the value of Tesco One elderly middle class lady

the interviewees bu meat at the butcher shop said that she was originally against Tesco but that

and at Tesco a quarter reported they buy now she is happy it is there She and her

everything from the butcher and another husband have a car so they are not dependent on

quarter buy meats only from Tesco Certain Tesco on Sundays She spoke at length about

meats like bacon ham and chicken are bought Tescos community relations effort when they

at Tesco either because the butcher doesnt carry came to Sta1l1am They bought new instruments

those cuts or because there is no perceptible for the Stalliam brass band and paid to have the

difference in taste to justify his higher cost All Fire Hall Museum restored On the other hand

of the interviewees buy some food items other she complained that the changed the roadway

than meat products as well as other household through town so that the main road now runs

goods at the supermarket and agree that it is directly in front of the store avoiding the main

convenient and the prices are good Five street in town Vhile she buys other things at

informants said they buy meat only from tl1e Tesco she does not buy her meats there

butcher regardless of higher prices because it is preferring the local butcher shop

important to support local businesses Hmveer The clienteles of Tesco and the tWO town

when asked if tl1ey bought any meats at all from butchers represent two ends of the status j

the supermarkets two informants reconsidered continuum Conversations with informants

made it clear tl1at meat is an indicator of social

PIPES Good to Sell

Table 1 Results o[ taste test COIIIPCllfl1g tJe sallie cut of meajiml the Stabam btltciJer slop alld Tesco Slipermarket

Butcher Meat Jtlicme~ Taste Tenderness

Excelient 4 29q~ 4 ~9~middot 0 145~gto

Good 9 640 9 M~ o 10 71 0Poor 1 1 7deg0 145~

Tota 14 iOO~ 4 1 00deg~ 14 1loa~

5npelrnarket Jhat Jlllcmes~ Taste Terdemess

~ cExceHent I ]7~~ J 0 200 Good 6 40 ~Olto ~ 3G-o

-I 0 HPoor J_~ -oSlt )J 0 67C~

Total as iOOcentmiddot~ 100 100

79 ~GLI Vol ~ (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

and political status among town residents The the potential health risks due to infectious

two butchers described their clienteles as disease but that they do not consider it a major

consisting of wealthier socially conscious upper concern Informants generally believe one or all

class residents The- also said that the butcher of the following asse rtion s First meat

shop itself is a place embedded with social purchased from local butchers comes from local

memories reminding people of a time when livestock which is either raised by the butcher or

everyone knew each other and life was less obtained bv him from local farmers and that it is

s tre ss ful They claim that for those who can good quality Second since all meats have the

afford the butchers prices there is an aesthetic point of origin indicated on the package they

pleasure in entering a small owner-operated can buy only local mea ts which they believe to

shop Their customer relations approach is to be safe from disease Third by the time o fficial

give personal attention to the shopper and offer notification of contamination happens chances

advice about which meat cut is appropriate for a are it is too late to do anything about it None of

particular dish The local butchers stated that the informants were particularly concerned with

their clientele tend to be transplams to Stalham the potential contamination of locally purchased

wIllie the supermarket clientele consists of town meats Most of the informants stated that they

natives had altered their meat consumption patterns as a

s lie tele lSt fee 0 e Is result of food scares However an occasional Te sco c n cons s 0 v r nee observation would prompt a comment aboutin tow n including some of the butchers clients some impacts of food scares The authorand people from other towns To the wealthier commented to a local priest on ho1 common informants of this study Tesco symbolizes the turkey appeared in res taurants The informantdestruction of the intimate shopping experience explained that turkey had been a holiday foodThey claim ti1at tile impersonal atmosphere of

the store and the general indifference of most until the fo od scares began He stated that each of the major meats have been associated vithemployees leave the shopper to focus on their specific scares including beef pork lamb and purchases They conceded ti1at though the chicken and that during those times many people aestiletic experience is lacking it is replaced by

convenience price and a great variety o f foods felt theY might have to become vege tarians

Jl of tile informants who eat fish bought them Because turkey was never associated with a food scare he said people began to eat it as anat Tescos and were happy with the fi shmonger

who served them The Stalham Tesco has found alternative meat When the author pointed out that Hoof and Mouth disease has no effect on a formula that seems to please both camps with

the establishment of a fish counter Repeatedly humans the priest responded that people shy

this feature was mentioned as a source of awamiddot from diseased animals Three informants

shopping pleasure and always because the stated that in the past they had temporarily

fishmonger was personable and knowledgeable avoided meats as sociated with food scares sometimes up to a m onth in length after a food

Interviews with consumers of meat scare was revealed in the press assuming that

products indicated that most people are aware of

80

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

bull

to pursue another career and he was unable to and stated that certain meats were in fact bought

manage the business himself at the supermarket such as bacon and ham

In all sixteen consumers were Some people changed their minds about

intervieved on one-to-one basis About half of the value of Tesco One elderly middle class lady

the interviewees bu meat at the butcher shop said that she was originally against Tesco but that

and at Tesco a quarter reported they buy now she is happy it is there She and her

everything from the butcher and another husband have a car so they are not dependent on

quarter buy meats only from Tesco Certain Tesco on Sundays She spoke at length about

meats like bacon ham and chicken are bought Tescos community relations effort when they

at Tesco either because the butcher doesnt carry came to Sta1l1am They bought new instruments

those cuts or because there is no perceptible for the Stalliam brass band and paid to have the

difference in taste to justify his higher cost All Fire Hall Museum restored On the other hand

of the interviewees buy some food items other she complained that the changed the roadway

than meat products as well as other household through town so that the main road now runs

goods at the supermarket and agree that it is directly in front of the store avoiding the main

convenient and the prices are good Five street in town Vhile she buys other things at

informants said they buy meat only from tl1e Tesco she does not buy her meats there

butcher regardless of higher prices because it is preferring the local butcher shop

important to support local businesses Hmveer The clienteles of Tesco and the tWO town

when asked if tl1ey bought any meats at all from butchers represent two ends of the status j

the supermarkets two informants reconsidered continuum Conversations with informants

made it clear tl1at meat is an indicator of social

PIPES Good to Sell

Table 1 Results o[ taste test COIIIPCllfl1g tJe sallie cut of meajiml the Stabam btltciJer slop alld Tesco Slipermarket

Butcher Meat Jtlicme~ Taste Tenderness

Excelient 4 29q~ 4 ~9~middot 0 145~gto

Good 9 640 9 M~ o 10 71 0Poor 1 1 7deg0 145~

Tota 14 iOO~ 4 1 00deg~ 14 1loa~

5npelrnarket Jhat Jlllcmes~ Taste Terdemess

~ cExceHent I ]7~~ J 0 200 Good 6 40 ~Olto ~ 3G-o

-I 0 HPoor J_~ -oSlt )J 0 67C~

Total as iOOcentmiddot~ 100 100

79 ~GLI Vol ~ (2)

PIPES Good to Sell

and political status among town residents The the potential health risks due to infectious

two butchers described their clienteles as disease but that they do not consider it a major

consisting of wealthier socially conscious upper concern Informants generally believe one or all

class residents The- also said that the butcher of the following asse rtion s First meat

shop itself is a place embedded with social purchased from local butchers comes from local

memories reminding people of a time when livestock which is either raised by the butcher or

everyone knew each other and life was less obtained bv him from local farmers and that it is

s tre ss ful They claim that for those who can good quality Second since all meats have the

afford the butchers prices there is an aesthetic point of origin indicated on the package they

pleasure in entering a small owner-operated can buy only local mea ts which they believe to

shop Their customer relations approach is to be safe from disease Third by the time o fficial

give personal attention to the shopper and offer notification of contamination happens chances

advice about which meat cut is appropriate for a are it is too late to do anything about it None of

particular dish The local butchers stated that the informants were particularly concerned with

their clientele tend to be transplams to Stalham the potential contamination of locally purchased

wIllie the supermarket clientele consists of town meats Most of the informants stated that they

natives had altered their meat consumption patterns as a

s lie tele lSt fee 0 e Is result of food scares However an occasional Te sco c n cons s 0 v r nee observation would prompt a comment aboutin tow n including some of the butchers clients some impacts of food scares The authorand people from other towns To the wealthier commented to a local priest on ho1 common informants of this study Tesco symbolizes the turkey appeared in res taurants The informantdestruction of the intimate shopping experience explained that turkey had been a holiday foodThey claim ti1at tile impersonal atmosphere of

the store and the general indifference of most until the fo od scares began He stated that each of the major meats have been associated vithemployees leave the shopper to focus on their specific scares including beef pork lamb and purchases They conceded ti1at though the chicken and that during those times many people aestiletic experience is lacking it is replaced by

convenience price and a great variety o f foods felt theY might have to become vege tarians

Jl of tile informants who eat fish bought them Because turkey was never associated with a food scare he said people began to eat it as anat Tescos and were happy with the fi shmonger

who served them The Stalham Tesco has found alternative meat When the author pointed out that Hoof and Mouth disease has no effect on a formula that seems to please both camps with

the establishment of a fish counter Repeatedly humans the priest responded that people shy

this feature was mentioned as a source of awamiddot from diseased animals Three informants

shopping pleasure and always because the stated that in the past they had temporarily

fishmonger was personable and knowledgeable avoided meats as sociated with food scares sometimes up to a m onth in length after a food

Interviews with consumers of meat scare was revealed in the press assuming that

products indicated that most people are aware of

80

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

PIPES Good to Sell

and political status among town residents The the potential health risks due to infectious

two butchers described their clienteles as disease but that they do not consider it a major

consisting of wealthier socially conscious upper concern Informants generally believe one or all

class residents The- also said that the butcher of the following asse rtion s First meat

shop itself is a place embedded with social purchased from local butchers comes from local

memories reminding people of a time when livestock which is either raised by the butcher or

everyone knew each other and life was less obtained bv him from local farmers and that it is

s tre ss ful They claim that for those who can good quality Second since all meats have the

afford the butchers prices there is an aesthetic point of origin indicated on the package they

pleasure in entering a small owner-operated can buy only local mea ts which they believe to

shop Their customer relations approach is to be safe from disease Third by the time o fficial

give personal attention to the shopper and offer notification of contamination happens chances

advice about which meat cut is appropriate for a are it is too late to do anything about it None of

particular dish The local butchers stated that the informants were particularly concerned with

their clientele tend to be transplams to Stalham the potential contamination of locally purchased

wIllie the supermarket clientele consists of town meats Most of the informants stated that they

natives had altered their meat consumption patterns as a

s lie tele lSt fee 0 e Is result of food scares However an occasional Te sco c n cons s 0 v r nee observation would prompt a comment aboutin tow n including some of the butchers clients some impacts of food scares The authorand people from other towns To the wealthier commented to a local priest on ho1 common informants of this study Tesco symbolizes the turkey appeared in res taurants The informantdestruction of the intimate shopping experience explained that turkey had been a holiday foodThey claim ti1at tile impersonal atmosphere of

the store and the general indifference of most until the fo od scares began He stated that each of the major meats have been associated vithemployees leave the shopper to focus on their specific scares including beef pork lamb and purchases They conceded ti1at though the chicken and that during those times many people aestiletic experience is lacking it is replaced by

convenience price and a great variety o f foods felt theY might have to become vege tarians

Jl of tile informants who eat fish bought them Because turkey was never associated with a food scare he said people began to eat it as anat Tescos and were happy with the fi shmonger

who served them The Stalham Tesco has found alternative meat When the author pointed out that Hoof and Mouth disease has no effect on a formula that seems to please both camps with

the establishment of a fish counter Repeatedly humans the priest responded that people shy

this feature was mentioned as a source of awamiddot from diseased animals Three informants

shopping pleasure and always because the stated that in the past they had temporarily

fishmonger was personable and knowledgeable avoided meats as sociated with food scares sometimes up to a m onth in length after a food

Interviews with consumers of meat scare was revealed in the press assuming that

products indicated that most people are aware of

80

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

there had been a turnover in available meats

during that cime and that any tainted meats

would be gone

A major change in meat consumption

pa tterns was related to long term effects of high

fat meat consump tion and issues of hea lth Of

the sL teen informants about half were abmmiddote

the age of 50 Many of these older informants

said they had changed their habits because of

personal health reasons For example the local

lay priest had major heart problems due to his

weight and high cholesterol so he and his wife

have reduced their red meat and fat

consumpuon

Informants were also asked if they had

stopped eating specific animal foods such as

offal products Most said that the y had never

eaten offal products while others had eaten is as kids It seemed to be a generational issue as well

as a class issue Lower class people and older

individuals were more likely to say they middot had

eaten offal in the past Four modlers told me

mey used to serve dleir children liver One

woman said her fadler owned an offal shop in

London when she was growing up before the

Second World War She said that was the

cheapest food available back then and dlat it was

really poor people who ea t those kind s of things

She went on to relate that scrambled pigs brains

vere delicious Though some individuals fondly

remembered eating offal foods ther did not mis~ it gready

Taste and Texture

Informants consumers vendors and

providers repeatedly mentioned that dle taste o f meat was very important to them iccording to

PIPES Good 0 Sell

1) supermarket managers 2) pig and beef

farmers and 3) butchers taste and texture are

factors influencing dle choice of meats a

consumer buys All of them acknowledged mat

fat is important in the taste of meats as well as

rendering CutS tender Supermarket managers

however emphasized that consumers want leaner

meats The pig farmer confirmed dlat they were

raising much leaner pigs and mat it had a

negative effec t on both taste and tex ture

In attempt was made to define taste

SUlce it clearlymiddot affected peoples perceptions of

the meats they eat It became apparent that taste

meant different things to different people For

some taste meant flavor to others it meant

texture and still for omers it equated to dle

presentation of the meat In order to examine

dus issue the autho r devised a taste te st Most of

the consumer informants and their families

about 20 people in all were invited to a party

and invited to taste beef shish kebabs Each

kebab consisted of six pieces of mea t Each

kebab contained the same meat cut but three

pieces came from the supermarket and three

came from the butcher Tasters were told to

compare dle two groups in terms of juiciness

taste and texture using a scale where 1 = Excellent 2 = Good and 3 = Poor (Table 1)

None of the informants Vere told vhich shish

kebab half came from where until the results

were tallied The meat from the butcher was consistendmiddot assessed as being good in terms

juiciness taste and tenderness f few people

rated it excellent and one person rated it as poor

So it was clear d13t people appreciated the

butchers meat in terms of overall quality The

meat from the super market was assessed

differendy There was more ambiguity Almost

_I=i81 I 2 (2)

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

PIPES Good 10 Sell

half of me tasters mought it had excellent f1avor

though overall tenderness was lacking The meat

from me butcher was well marbled with fat

which is why Qerall it was juicier more tender

and had good f1avor The meat from the

supermarket had no marbling Instead it was

wrapped wim a strip of fat which the cook

mrev away So while me f1avor might have been

good me texture was rated as poor The

informants agreed that texture played a greater role in appreciating the difference between

supermarket meat and butcher meat

Conclusion

The main objectives of mis study were to

investigate possible change s in m e at

consumption practices in response to food

scares and how meat vendors and consumers

negotiate what is good to sell and eat It was

determined that selective practices are in f1uenced

by other forces especially by state and European Union regulations and that there are other

concerns inf1uencing decisions at the consumer

level nor realized initially such as concerns about

the healm impacts of consuming high fat meats

The UK and European Union food safety

rebUlations have directly impacted many of me

meats sold to me public bv regulating the age at

which animals may be slaughtered the kinds of

meat cuts sold and the prohibiting me sale of

offal (DEFRA nd ECORYS 2011 Entec 2003

FSA 2004 2009 Hutter and l-modu 2008 RPA 2009 Tulip and Michaels 2004) Regulations are

considered too restrictive by me meat vendors

and providers interviewed for this study because

they do nor accept that BSE has ewr been

detected in English beef This belief is shared by

many others mrough the United Kingdom

(S tarling 2006b) Furmermore me restrictions

damage local livestock production by raising

operating costs and forcing small farms to

reinvent themselves while targeting new markets

(Beckett 2011 Boyle 2006 Lowthrope 2006

Moreton 2013)

Food scares did have some impact on the

supermarket industry but not as much as me

increasing public concern with both personal

healm issues and time saving strategies for

working familie s and couples Consumers did

alter their meat consumption patterns since me

food scares began in me 1980s Many of me

consumers intervieved spoke of increasing

concern with personal health issues such as

lowering cholesterol by reducing the intake of

animal fats and red meats by consuming more

poultry and fi sh Meat vendors interviewed

stated that they address healm concerns by

selling leaner cuts of meat and trimming fat

Supermarket managers said that convenience

and time-saving strategies are catered to by

selling prepared produce and meats designed to

satisfy me emotional and intellectual needs of

me pretend scratch cook Butcher shops have

increased thell market share by selling better

tasting meats and promoting the sale of locally

raised products The higher cost of meats is

tolerated by people who are aff1uent taste

conscious or concerned about supporting local businesses

To conclude food scares are important

factor s temporarily affecting consumers

decisions about what to eat In England it is

primarily at me state level that vendor changes

are implemented by regulating meat industries But me factors inf1uencing those decisions are

-2 Vol 2 (2) 82

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

PIPES Good 10 Sell

often prompted by public awareness o f health practices food preparation and consumer issues The media playa major role in info rming behavior Her docto ral research focuses on

the public about d1e lates t health related news animal exchange b e tween m id-N eo lithic

including food scares Meat vendors whecher setdements in southeastern Poland T he research

supermarkets o r butch ers targe t specific uses DNA eidence linking herd s to establish

segments o f the market Price and income relatedness from which human social relation s

although o ften key factors determining who can be inferred Her professional work focuses

buys what mea ts and where do not necessarily on faunal assemblage from the nord1east United

correlate Among those interviewed individuals States and covers prehistoric and historic

who better educated better informed and or periods The author mar be contacted at

conscious and sympathetic to environmental mlpipesaolcom issues tended to suppOrt local butchers and to be

concerned about heald1 and sanita tion o f meats

with regard to infectious di se ase T his

ed1noarchaeological study presents the insights References Cited

of historic archaeology on d1e complex nature BBC Nes UK

of social interactions between consumers and 2001 D ecline of the abatto ir BBC Nes UK Tuesday

sellers of meat products Social attitudes towards 27 Februan 2001

mea t consumption butchers and other meat Becke rt Fiona

providers may be influenced in ways perhaps not

immediately middotisible in archaeological deposits

2011 Bringing home [h e baco n could burchers come back [0 the high street ne breed of meat merchant is bucking the independenrs decline by

For hi s toric archaeologis ts th e use of beefmg up its trading hours to match Tesco and co

documentary resources such as public heald1

records newspapers and adve rtisements ma) be

(ford o f j[OUrJ1 Blog The Guardian Wednesday 17 ugust 2011 1127 E DT

required in order to enhance th e interpretacion

of faunal remains and the subde interplay

BO)le udremiddot 2006 There s no Going Back for

Eastern Dail Press 24 Archanr rJ1is Countr l Girl Regional Norfo lk

between consumers and vendors Jull 1

Broke Simon 2003 Loca l batwirs Pla a Ke Role Eastern Daily

Press 24 rchanr Regional Norfolk iIarch 19

Author Biography Chalabi lona

Marie-Lorraine Pipes is a doctoral candidate in

the depanment o f anthropology University at

2013 Comparing carnivores UK meat D ataBlog The G uardian June 5 2013

consump tion

Buffalo She is a Zooarchaeologist specializing in Collin s Ian

the livestock rearing butcher practices and che 1990 c Broad Camas Art in East Anglia

Parke Sut ton since 1880

consumption of meat and related products Her

C

areas of interes t include the 1 _ d 11

breedll1g traLWlg an selling

social aspects o f b I

arumals utc 1er

Campaign to Protec t Rural E ngland (CPRE) Nd Imp middotcpre org uk ccessed 1 20 2014

E[ 101 2 (2) 83

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

PIPES Cooato Sell

Department for Environment Food and Rural _ffairs (DEFR) Nd http-defragovuk ccessed 1202014

Dymond David 1990 The Norfolk Land~cape Alastair Press Suffolk

Eastern Daih Press 24 (EDP) 2006a Local butchers gtt the fInest cut Eastern Daily

Press 24 _-ucham Regional Norfolk

2006b Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006c ne approach Comment to Supermarkets report gives food for thought Eastern Daih- Press 24 chant Regional Norfolk June 26

2006d A lesson learned Eastern Dail Press 24 rchant Regio nal Norfolk l[ay 25

2006e vCJD blood test is a step closer Eastern Dail Press 24 -uchanr Regional Norfolk July 7

ECORYS

2011 Study on the Competitiveness of the European ileat Processing lndusm- Prepared for the European Union Luxembourg

Emec UK Lin1ited 2003 COStS of compliance ith health and safe[

regulatiOngt in SHEs Prepared for the Health and Safetymiddot Executie 2003 Research Report 174

FinchJulia 2006 iatchdog outlines concerns in in-estigarion of

big supermmkets The GuardianJune

Fincham Paul 1976 East Anglia Faber London

Food Standards -ltgenc (FS) 2004 foodgovuk neS pressrelea ses Accessed

1 16 2014

2007 Food Safetymiddot Traceabilm Product Withdra -lt nd Recall General Food La Regulation Guidance For Food Businesses h tep -Joodgoukbusinessshyindustn gUldancenoteshgguidgeneralfoodlamiddotU tf68NJdVmiddotQccessed 1162014

Freu Lmn de JongeJanneke van Kleef Ellen 2011 Consumer perceptions of food safety Medical

Sciences Encmiddotclopedia of Life Support Systems Vol II

Friends of the Earth 2005 Good Neighbours Communitymiddot impacts of

supermarkets Briefing Email pressfoecouk Xiebsite foecouk London

Friends of the Earth 2004 Embargo Thursdar 17th Junt Every little thing

hurts middothmiddot tesco needs to be tamed MPs Briefing Email pressfoecouk Vebsite middotmiddotfoeco uk London

Heath Nick 2006a Bird flu fears are easing at poultry farmgt

Eagttern Daily Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk i1a 25

2006b Farmer speaks of bird flu ordeal Eastern Daily Press 24 rchant Regional Norfolk

H utter Bridget )1 and Tola _-ltmodu 2008 Risk Regulation and Compliance Food Safe[ in

tlle UK LSE Enterprise London

Kitzinger Jenn and Reith- Jacquie 1997 The Rise and Fall of Risk Reporting - Media

Coverage of Human Genetics Research False memon- Smdrome and Mad Co Disease 111

European Journal of Conunurucation (3) 319-350

LClmiddotthorpe ShaUll 2006 Xlake-up call for Norfolk farmers Eastern Daily

Press 24 Archant Regional Norfolk June 28

Marsh Lorna 2006 All set for great sho Eastern Daily Press 24

-ltrchant Regional Norfolk June 28

Monbim George 2009 Tesco-opted The Guardian August 102009

MoretOn Cole 2013 Is it the end of the road for high street shops and

pubs) With supermarket chain s seeing off small businesses -hat hope remains for local retailers and pubs) The Telegraph 15 Jun 2013

s Vol (2 84

Na tional Farmers Retail amp Markets ssociatio n (FfRMA)

Nd http lnndarmaorguk ccessed 1202014 Norfolk Fanners Union (NFU)

Nd http middotwwnfuonlinecomhome cessed 1 202014

Pearson Stephen 2004 The Changing Face Of Shoppillg High Streets

_A nd Shops Disappeared The People Historlmiddot http nlmiddot thepeoplehistorycom shopsh trnl ccessed 1 162014

Pipes tIarie-Lorra ine 2009 Anaksis and Interpretacion o f me 290 Broadal

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