Fun in the Tub - Bath Fizz and Foam

Fun in the Tub: Creating Bath Bombs, Solid

Bubble Bath, Bubble Frosting and Bubble

Scoopsby Amanda Gail Aaron

COP Y R I G H TCopyright © 2019 Lovin Soap Studio LLCAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including pho-tocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the publisher at the email address below. [email protected]

Notice of LiabilityAll the recipes and design instructions in this book are provided without any success guar-antee on the part of the Author. The Author disclaims any liability in connection with the use of the information in this book and is not responsible for wasted materials or damages resulting from the use of information.

Conten tIntroductionAbout This Book

Bath Bombs Common Bath Bomb Base Ingredients Coloring Your Bath Bombs Scenting Your Bath Bombs Hardening Your Bombs Bath Bomb AdditivesMeasuring Ingredients: Volume Versus WeightBinder SecretsFormulating a Bath Bomb RecipeBath Bomb Tips and TricksBath Bomb RecipesBasic Bath Bomb ProcessTwo Color Bath Bomb DesignFoaming Bath BombsCocoa Butter DrizzleMica Drizzle or PaintSalt SprinklesUnicorn Horn Bath BombsCreating Colorful EmbedsEgg Shaped Bath BombsFlower Bath Bombs

Solid Bubble Bath and Bubble Scoops (Bubble Bars)Common Solid Bubble Bath IngredientsSolid Bubble Bath Tips and TricksRolled Solid Bubble BathLavender Lemon Bubble Scoops (Two Color Design)Raspberry Bubble Scoops (Vertical Stripe De-sign)Rainbow Bubble ScoopsSolid Bubble Bath CookiesUnicorn Horn Solid Bubble BathBubble Bath Frosting for Piping

...4

...5

...6

...7

...9

...11

...12

...14

...15

...16

...18

...20

...22

...26

...32

...34

...36

...37

...38

...39

...40

...42

...43

...44

...45

...47

...48

...52

...55

...58

...60

...63

...65

People have been making bath bombs, bubble scoops and solid bubble bath for years. But it wasn’t until a popular bath and body store named Lush® started selling and marketing these products that the industry exploded!

DIY’ers are constantly trying to duplicate these popular products, making their own, while sav-ing loads of money in the process.

I run a soap making blog called Lovin’ Soap Studio and mostly write about making natural soap from scratch. I sometimes venture off into other bath and body products based on what my tribe is needing. Recently, I polled my Face-book group to see what topics they might be interested in and it was, by a high percentage, bath bombs and bubble bars. (Note: It’s my understanding that Lush® owns the trademark for bubble bars, so in this book I call them solid bubble bath and you should too if you decide to sell them.)

Originally, I didn’t particularly like to make bath bombs. They can be so finicky, and oftentimes making them was full of cursing and failed batches. But I resolved to immerse myself in learning everything about them and to create a resource my community can learn from.

And something funny happened. I became ob-sessed! I took the time to learn how the ingredi-ents worked together, how different hardeners and binders can help create bath bombs that stand up to humid climates and how different additives can help you create unique and inter-esting bombs.

IN TRO DUC T I ONPretty soon, I was having a blast! I finally got what the bath bomb craze was all about. I loved filling up my tub and dropping in a bomb to see how it fizzed and dispersed into a rainbow of colors.

Then there were bubble scoops and solid bub-ble bath. I remember scooping my first success-ful bubble scoop, releasing it onto wax paper and being giddy at how adorable it looked—just like a scoop of ice cream. Rolling solid bubble bath, then slicing through the concentric rings was exhilarating. The resulting products were just so happy-looking and whimsical.

It didn’t all go well, of course. There’s certainly a learning curve when making these products, and I feel that taking the time to learn is im-portant if you really want to understand how to concoct these super fun items. You have to know what fails in order to learn what works. I made bath bombs that had warts all over them and slumped over pathetically. I made gloppy solid bubble bath that didn’t dry and bubble scoops that were so hard they broke my ice cream scooper.

But these failures helped me learn what did work, and in this book, I’m going to share every-thing I learned with you.

-Amanda Aaron

A b ou t T h i s B o o kThis book will show you how to make bath bombs and different types of solid bubble bath.

I focus on formulation, especially when it comes to more finicky bath bombs! Bath bombs are known to be troublesome. For example, differ-ent climates around the world have different types of weather and humidity. Someone mak-ing bath bombs in a dry climate like Arizona and sharing their recipes online is doing a dis-service to someone who tries to make the same recipe in humid Alabama. In Alabama, a recipe with no hardeners might wart or expand. They might never dry! An Alabama bath bomb maker is going to need a recipe specially formulated for making them in humidity. So, throughout this book, we’ll keep our focus on making sure we’re using the right ingredients to form the best bath bombs, no matter where you’re at in the world.

It’s so important to understand what each ingre-dient contributes to a formula and how to use hardeners and additives. It’s important to know how wetting your bath bomb mixture with alco-hol varies from wetting your bath bomb mixture with water or witch hazel. There’s a lot of infor-mation prior to the recipes that’s important to understand before you begin, so I recommend reading this book from front to back before you start trying to create your own bath bombs or solid bubble bath.

My goal in writing this book is to help you learn to formulate your own recipes instead of just following recipes that you’ve found online or in other books. I don’t want you wasting ingredi-ents, making products that aren’t successful. After reading this book, I firmly believe that you’ll be able to successfully create your own bath bombs, bubble scoops and solid bubble bath.

Bubb l e P roduc ts Ga l or e !Here’s an overview of what we’ll be making in this book.

Bath BombsBath bombs are also known as bath fizzies, fizz-ing bath bombs, fizzy bombs, bath tabs, shower tabs...etc. These products are all similar and are made up of mostly baking soda and citric acid. Other ingredients are incorporated for label appeal or to create harder bombs or bombs that foam like bubble bath. You simply drop one into your tub and the combination of water, baking soda and citric acid creates a fizzing action, releasing both color and scent into your tub. Bath bombs can be molded into many different shapes and sizes.

Solid Bubble BathAlso known as bubble bars, solid bubble bath is just that, a solid chunk of dry bubble bath. When you hold a solid bubble bath under running water, it dissolves and creates bubbles in your tub. These products don’t fizz like bath bombs. Instead, they create large, fluffy bub-bles, just like using a liquid or gel bubble bath. Since they’re solid, they require less packaging than a liquid or gel, saving money and space in the landfill. You can make all sorts of ador-able shapes and styles. We’ll make rolled bars, like a jelly roll cake, cookies and scoops in the shape of ice cream scoops. We’ll also create a pipeable solid bubble bath that you can pipe like frosting onto bath bomb cupcakes or other products.

Fun in the Tub: Creating Bath Bombs, Solid Bubble Bath, Bubble Frosting and Bubble Scoops5

Bat h B omb sBath bombs are so much fun to use! Drop one in the tub and watch them fizz, coloring the water with beautiful colors and releasing the wonderful fragrance or essential oils that you have added. Let’s go over the ingredients used to make bath bombs.


Common Bat h B omb BA S E In gr e d i en ts The two super heroes of bath bombs are baking soda and citric acid. Combining the two and submerging the mixture in water releases car-bon dioxide gas, creating fizzing action in the tub. Baking soda and citric acid are the base of any bath bomb recipe. In fact, you can simply use these two ingredients to make a basic bath bomb, binding them with water, witch hazel or isopropyl alcohol. However, I’ve found that add-ing hardeners, fragrance and color makes the process and resulting products much more fun!

Here are some common bath bomb ingredients. Be sure to check out the resource section in the back of this book for suppliers and resources.

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)If you’ve ever done any kind of baking, you’ve probably heard of baking soda, and you might even have some in your home right now. It is a common household item used in natural clean-ing, toothpaste and baking. It’s a salt composed of sodium ions and bicarbonate ions. It comes as a fine white powder, soluble in water.

Baking soda comes in different size granules. I’ve had good luck with Arm & Hammer® and baking soda from Brambleberry.com and Wholesalesuppliesplus.com. I’ve noticed that the off-brand or store-brand varieties come in larger granule sizes and don’t seem to work as well.

Citric Acid Citric acid occurs naturally in citrus fruits and is a weak organic tricarboxylic acid. It’s used in the food and beverage industry as a flavoring agent and preservative. Citric acid comes in dry powder form. If you want some in a pinch, you can find it in the pickling and preserving section of your grocery store by the canning jars.

Citric acid also comes in different size granules. Choose the finest that you can find. I’ve had good luck with citric acid from the grocery store (Ball® brand) and from Brambleberry.com and Wholesalesuppliesplus.com.

Cosmetic ClayClays are a great addition to bath bombs. Not only do they help to harden your bath bombs, but clay is wonderful to soak in. Clay has draw-ing abilities, minerals and detoxification prop-erties. I typically use kaolin clay in my bath bombs, but you can use all sorts of clay includ-ing pink clay, bentonite clay, French green…etc.

SaltPeople have been soaking in salt for centu-ries! Salts contain minerals that are beneficial for your skin and health. You can add sea salt, Epsom salt, Himalayan salt and dead sea salt to your bath bombs. My favorite salt to add to bath bombs is fine sea salt.

Cream of Tartar (Potassium Bitartrate) Cream of tartar is used in baking and as a nat-ural cleaning solution when mixed with lemon juice or vinegar. It helps to harden bath bombs.



Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch & Arrowroot Powder Many bath bomb makers include one of these powders in their formula as fillers. They act as skin softeners and help the bath bombs float and take longer to dissolve.

Carrier Oils & Butters Carrier oils and butters are emollients in the tub, meaning they soothe, soften and hydrate the skin. As your bath bomb dissolves, it releases the oils and butters, depositing them on your skin as you bathe and exit the water.

You can use any number of cosmetic oils and butters. Some of my favorites are sweet almond oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, grape-seed oil, sunflower oil, shea butter, cocoa butter and mango butter.

Carrier oils and butters can be categorized as light, medium and heavy. Light oils easily pene-trate the skin and do not leave a greasy feeling. Heavy oils sit on the skin for a time before being absorbed. These oils can sometimes be de-scribed as having a greasy feeling. Medium oils are somewhere in between. Choose heavy oils for dry skin and light to medium oils for oily to normal skin.

Light Oils – Apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, grapeseed oil, hempseed oil, sweet almond oil, meadowfoam seed oil, argan oil

Medium Oils – Coconut oil, rice bran oil, saf-flower oil, sunflower oil

Heavy Oils – Castor oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter

Emulsifiers Polysorbate 80 – In bath bombs and solid bub-ble bath, polysorbate 80 is an emulsifier and helps to mix oils (both fragrant and carrier oils) into your bath water.

Dyes easily disperse in your water and leave your bath tub relatively clean after use. Howev-er, lakes and mica are insoluble and can cling to oils and butters, leaving a colored ring in your tub as you drain the water.

Using Polysorbate 80 to emulsify your carrier oils into the bath water helps with the col-ored ring issue when you let the water out of your tub. You can use half to equal amounts of polysorbate 80 to carrier oils. I use an equal amount, keeping in mind that the essential oils and fragrance oils need to be emulsified into the water as well. Using the higher amount helps to emulsify everything.

If you live in a humid area or are having trouble getting your bath bombs to dry, reducing the amount of polysorbate 80 might help, as it is a liquid ingredient. Use half your amount of oil for polysorbate 80. If your recipe calls for 10 grams of carrier oil, use 5 grams of polysorbate 80.

To grind or not to grind...Grinding your bath bomb ingredients can be helpful to create smooth bath bombs. Depend-ing on where you get your citric acid and bak-ing soda, they might come in larger particles. If you’re having rough-looking bath bombs or if you are using a detailed mold, such as a Moon Cake Press, try grinding your baking soda, citric acid, salt and any other ingredients that appear to have large particles. You can use a coffee grinder or a food processor.


Co l or in g Your Bat h B omb sDyesDyes, simply pure pigment, are a popular bath bomb colorant. Dyes simply dissolve and disperse in the tub, coloring your water differ-ent colors. Dyes are water soluble and come in powder or liquid (mixed with water) form. Since they are water soluble, they easily dissolve in the bath water and don’t leave a mess when the water is let out. Many bath bomb makers bloom their dyes (next page) before use. This simply means to mix the dye with water to dissolve and bring out the color.

LakesLakes are common colorants used to add bright colors to bath bombs. Lakes are dyes combined with salts, which creates insoluble color com-pounds that color by dispersion of their parti-cles. You can add lake powders directly into your mixture. Lakes are not water soluble but they are water dispersable, using polysorbate 80. They will color your water beautiful colors.

MicaYou can also use mica to color your bath bombs. Mica is naturally mined from the earth. It is what gives our cosmetics sparkle and shine. Mica is colored using dyes, lakes or mineral pigments (such as oxides and ultramarines) and comes in a rainbow of colors. You can add mica powder directly into your mixture. Micas are not water soluble but they are water dispersable, using polysorbate 80 and will color your water.

Usage RatesUsage rates vary per colorant, but here is a start-ing point. Use more or less for lighter or darker colors. What you see is what you get. So if the color is too light in your mixture, add more colorant.

Dyes & Lakes - 1/8 teaspoon - 1/4 teaspoon per 2 cups of baking soda.

Mica - 1/4 teaspoon - 1/2 teaspoon per 2 cups of baking soda.


Cosmetic Approved Colorants Please note that if you want to sell your bath products, you’ll need to use colorants that are approved for cosmetic use by the FDA. Some micas contain ingredients that aren’t approved, such as chromium oxide (green) and ultramarine (blue), so be sure to read the ingredients listing of your mica. Some natural colorants aren’t ap-proved. Most suppliers will specify if a colorant is approved for cosmetic use.

Here are two links to research cosmetic colo-rants. In case the FDA changes the links, search FDA Cosmetic Colorants. Look under the Gener-ally column on the first link as bath bombs and solid bubble bath fall under this category.

https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/labeling/ingredi-entnames/ucm109084.htm

https://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditivesinSpecificProducts/InCosmetics/ucm110032.htm

Powder versus LiquidI personally prefer using powdered colorants when making bath bombs. I’ve had trouble using liquids as they simply bead up in the mixture and don’t disperse well. Feel free to ex-periment. If you do use liquid colorants, mix all your liquid ingredients together then add your liquid color. Then add this to your dry ingredi-ents. Most liquid colorants are water soluble but if you use polysorbate 80, it should mix into your liquids easily enough.

Blooming DyesMany bath bomb makers choose to bloom their dyes prior to making bath bombs. This simply means to mix with water to dissolve so that the color comes out bright in your mixture. Some-times, if you add the powderd dye directly to your mix it doesn’t dissolve enough and can leave a speckled appearance or simply doesn’t color to its full potential. Bloom your dye in baking soda and then use your dyed baking soda in your bath bomb batch.

To bloom, simply mix 1/8 teaspoon of dye with 1/2 teaspoon of warm water. Mix to dissolve. Add this to 2 cups of baking soda and mix well until all the color is dispersed. Allow this to dry and then use in your batch.


S cen t i n g Your Bat h B omb sFragrance OilsFragrance oils are synthetic oils used to add fragrance to bath and body products. You can find a fragrance oil for any type of scent you want, from bakery to fruity and ocean to pup-py’s breath. Make sure that the fragrances you choose are skin-safe and recommended for cos-metic use. Some fragrance oils are sold for burn-ers or candles only and should not be used on the skin. If you choose a fragrance that contains vanilla, it could discolor your product, turning it cream to brown. Most suppliers will specify if a fragrance contains vanilla. Fragrance oils can be used at 1-2% of your formula.

Essential OilsEssential oils are a natural way to add fragrance to bath and body products. Essential oils are distilled, expressed or solvent extracted from natural plant materials including flowers, leaves, roots, seeds, citrus peel, etc.

Essential oils have aroma-therapeutic properties. You’ve probably heard that lavender essential oil is balancing and relaxing. Peppermint is uplifting and bright. You can create synergy blends using your favorite essential oils. Gener-ally, you can use essential oils at 1-2% of your formula. There are some essential oils that can irritate your skin such as cinnamon and cassia, so make sure you’re using skin-friendly essential oils in safe amounts. If you’d like to find safe usage rates for essential oils in bath bombs and other products, I recommend the website www.eocalc.com.

Some of my favorite essential oils that can be used at 1-2% in your products include lavender, sweet orange, lemon, litsea, lemongrass, lime, patchouli, cedarwood, geranium, clary sage, bergamot, eucalyptus, peppermint, rosemary, spearmint, tea tree and ylang-ylang.

Essential oils to avoid in bath bombs include cinnamon leaf, cinnamon bark, clove bud, cas-sia and nutmeg. These spice essential oils can cause skin irritations, especially if they float on the water and don’t emulsify into your bath. I would simply avoid them.

Essential oils do require you to have knowledge of each oil that you use to make sure that there are no contraindications between the oil and medical conditions or medications that you might take. I’ve listed some resources in the back of the book to help you learn more about essential oils and safety.

If you are combining essential oils to make a blend, be sure that the total blend amount is 1-2% of your recipe and not more.

It is important to use polysorbate 80 in your formula to make sure the essential oils are emulsified into your bath water. You don’t want undiluted essential oil on your skin.

Be sure to wear gloves when working with both essential oils and fragrance oils as you don’t want to absorb the undiluted oils into your skin.


H ard en in g Your Bat h B omb sI love that there is so much info on formulating bath bombs available online. But sometimes it can be confusing to sift through, and I really like to see things for myself. I decided to test some hardeners to see how each one helped to create a rock-hard bath bomb, and I encourage you to do the same for yourself to help you better understand what works best.

I did my testing in 70-80% humidity. Creating a hard and dry bomb helps to ward off warting, mushrooming and expanding, so you can make them in more humid climates.

I used the same base recipe of citric acid, bak-ing soda, avocado oil, polysorbate 80 and fra-grance for each batch.

Basic Bath Bomb Recipe

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – 1/2 cup (100 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (or any liquid oil of your choice) (5 grams)• Polysorbate – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 1 teaspoon (I used lavender essential oil) (6 grams)

To each test batch, I added 2 tablespoons of one hardener so that I could see the results for that single ingredient.

Hardeners TestedBubble Cake Hardener (Potassium Bitartrate) – This ingredient is from Wholesale Supplies Plus and is simply a “higher-grade of Cream of Tartar.” I wanted to know if it performed better than the “regular” cream of tartar I got from a soap making supplier.

Cream of Tartar (Potassium Bitartrate) from a soap making supplier.

Both cream of tartars seemed to have the same effectiveness. It took about 20 sprays of binder from a fine mist sprayer to make the mixture damp enough to mold, and it hardened up quickly after production.

Kaolin Clay - Kaolin clay absorbs moisture, so I had to spray the kaolin clay bath bomb mixture with nearly 3 times the amount of binder to get it to the correct consistency. I believe I sprayed it with about 40 sprays of binder. It was the fastest to harden, and I even had to re-spray the mix-ture halfway through molding.

Corn Starch – Corn starch is commonly known as a filler, but I wondered if it added hardness at all. The resulting bath bombs were harder than my test batch with no hardeners but not as hard as batches with cream of tartar or kaolin clay.

Sea Salt – I just used fine sea salt from the health food store. The sea salt bath bomb mix-ture took 18 sprays of binder to dampen enough to mold, and it was slower to harden than the others. However, the sea salt bath bombs were softer than the bombs without any hardeners. This makes sense. Salt is a humectant and pulls moisture into itself. Lesson learned! Sea salt is not a hardener, and it can actually soften your bath bombs if made in humid conditions.


My Favorite Bath Bomb Recipe

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – 1/2 cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch – 1 tablespoon (substitute arrowroot or tapioca starch) (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (or any liquid oil of your choice) (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 6 grams

I highly encourage you to experiment with dif-ferent recipes and ingredients to see what works best in your environment.

ResultsThe kaolin clay, Bubble Cake Hardener and cream of tartar were equal in hardness a few hours later! I couldn’t really tell them apart by simply pressing the bomb with my finger. I made one batch with no hardeners, and I could tell that one was softer. The batch with corn starch was somewhere between the batch with no hardeners and the batches with clay and cream of tartar.

I don’t think you could go wrong using any of these hardeners. I also put the bombs outside in the humidity. None of them reacted or grew warts.

After experimenting with the different harden-ers, I tested a few blends. I recommend that you do the same to see what your favorite combina-tion is.

Here is my favorite base recipe that I use all the time now after my experiments. If you want more fizzing action, you can bump up the citric acid and reduce the baking soda. You can try 3/4 cup baking soda and 3/4 cup citric acid (equal amounts). All the recipes in this book in-clude both volume and weight. I’ll explain that in a bit.


Bat h B omb A dd i t ivesThe most common base for bath bombs is 2 parts baking soda and 1 part citric acid. For a small batch, you can start off with 1 cup (250 grams) baking soda and ½ cup (100 grams) citric acid. To this base, you can add any number of additives.

These are simply my recommendations; don’t be afraid to experiment with quantities outside of these recommendations.

Additive Purpose AmountSalt Salt relaxes muscles and

soothes the body1/2-1 1/2 tablespoons (10-30 grams) per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

Clay Hardener 1-3 tablespoons (3-9 grams) per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

Cream of Tarter Hardener 1-3 tablespoons (12-36 grams) per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch, Arrowroot Powder

Filler, skin softener and helps bath bombs float and dissolve slower

1-3 tablespoons (10-30 grams) per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

Ground Oatmeal Skin soother 1-2 tablespoons (5-10 grams) per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

Milk Powder Natural foamer 1-2 tablespoons (12-24 grams) per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

SLSA Foamer 10-30 grams per cup (250 grams) of baking soda

When adding clay, oatmeal or other ingredients that absorb moisture, you’ll need to add more wet-ting ingredients (alcohol/witch hazel/water/oil) to your formula to create the perfect consistency. If you don’t have enough wet ingredients, your bombs might be powdery and crumble.

Although water can be used in small quantities to help bind your bath bombs, don’t add wa-ter-based ingredients to your bath bombs that might spoil or grow mold. For example, don’t add liquid milk, aloe juice, fruit or vegetable purees or juices, yogurt…etc. Most of these ingredients come in powder form, which you can add to your bath bombs.


Mea sur in g In gr e d i en ts : Vo lume Ve rsus We i g h t Using volume (cups, teaspoons and table-spoons) when first making bath bombs is fine. But as you scale up your recipes and get into producing for sale, you’ll want to start using weight only. Measuring your ingredients by weight (grams and ounces) is much more accu-rate than using cups and tablespoons.

To measure by weight, you’ll simply need a digital scale. You can grab a digital scale at most kitchen stores, or you can order one from Am-azon. Get one that weighs in both grams and ounces.

I’ve provided recipes in this book in both vol-ume and weight. However, I might get a slightly different weight than you will, depending on product settlement, granule size, and simply how high you fill your measuring cup. So don’t worry if your volume-to-weight conversions are slightly different than mine.

You might start off using my basic recipes, but my hope is that you’ll create your own formulas. After you figure out a formula that you like by volume, I highly recommend converting it to weight measurements for accuracy and consis-tency. Simply weigh each ingredient as you add it to your batch to convert your volume mea-surements to weight.

1. Turn your scale on and select grams.2. Place an empty bowl on the scale. 3. Hit tare to zero the weight of the contain-er. Your scale should now read “0”. 4. Add the baking soda by volume using a measuring cup. Record the weight. Press tare again to zero out the weight of the bowl and the baking soda. 5. Measure out your next ingredient into your bowl already containing the baking soda. 6. Do this until all your ingredients have been converted from volume to weight.

Next time you make a batch, use the weight measurements instead of volume, and you’ll have more consistent results and less room for error in the long run.


B in d e r S ecr e ts There are three types of wetting ingredients, also called binders, that people use in bath bombs. You’ll need to decide which to try for the envi-ronment in which you live.

AlcoholAlcohol works best if used in humid climates. It evaporates quickly, leaving behind a dry bath bomb that is less likely to react with the humid-ity in the air. Use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol. It comes in various strengths. For a super humid environment, use as high as 91%. For a more moderate environment, use 50%. I tend to use 50% where I live. The alcohol evaporates quick-ly, but the water content in the alcohol helps to create a wet enough bomb that dries hard. One of the downfalls of using alcohol is that is can dry too quickly and leave you with powdery bath bombs.

If you try alcohol and you find that your bath bombs are powdery and break apart easily after drying, you might need to use or mix with witch hazel or water. Use 50% alcohol or blend alco-hol with witch hazel or water.

Witch HazelWitch hazel is great for most climates. If your environment tilts to the humid side, use a com-bination of witch hazel and alcohol. If your en-vironment tilts to the dry side, try a combination of witch hazel and water.

WaterWater is great for those that live in dry climates. Your bath bombs will stay wetter longer, pre-venting cracks, than if you were to use alcohol by itself. This helps to create a harder bomb that isn’t powdery when dry. Water can also activate your mix a tiny bit, which helps to create a su-per hard bath bomb.

Modify as NeededKnowing which binder or combination of bind-ers to use can be tricky. If you can’t decide, start with a 50/50 blend of alcohol and water (50% alcohol). The batches in this book are small, so they make great test batches for experimenting with various binders.

As you scale up production, making bigger batches, you’ll want your mixture to stay wetter longer to give you more time to mold. If you only use alcohol in a bigger batch, you might not have enough time to get everything molded by the time the mix dries out.

This is when I would incorporate witch hazel or water into your mix if you aren’t already. You might try a 50/50 blend of alcohol and witch hazel or a 50/50 blend of alcohol and water. Or you might even try witch hazel by itself.

It will take some experimenting to find the perfect mix of binder for your bath bomb recipe and environment.


I recommend using a fine mist spray bottle for wetting your powders with the binder. This helps to disperse the binder without activating your mix.

Some people get annoyed when a recipe states to spray your ingredients until you get the per-fect consistency. They would rather measure out the perfect amount of liquid and add it to the batch. But this book is focused more on formu-lation and not just giving you the perfect reci-pe. When formulating, you have to test various ingredients and their wetting ability.

Baking soda + citric acid + clay will require a different amount of binder than baking soda + citric acid + cream of tartar. There is no perfect wet to dry ratio, as ingredients have different absorption rates, so you have to experiment with it.

However, once you create a perfect recipe that you’re able to make successfully time after time, you can convert your sprays to weight for ease of production.

Converting Sprays to WeightMost of the directions for bath bombs in this book recommend that you use a spray bottle to incorporate moisture into your mix.

This is because everyone’s environment and formula (if you make your own) will require slightly different amounts of binder. Where my humidity levels in the air might allow for 20 sprays, yours might allow for 15 or even 30!

By using a spray bottle, you have more control over the wetting of your ingredients during your formulating and testing phase.

But as you scale up production and make big-ger batches, using a spray bottle can be a pain! Who has the time to spray 50-100 sprays? Not me. You can easily convert your sprays into a weighed amount of liquid. Let’s say my mixture typically requires about 40 sprays of 50% isopropyl alcohol from my fine-mist sprayer. To figure out how much that is in grams, I’ll use a scale.

1. Turn your scale on and select grams.2. Place an empty container on the scale. I use a small shot-glass. Anything bigger might evaporate too quickly. 3. Hit the tare button to zero the weight of the container. Your scale should now read “0”. 4. Spray 40 sprays into the shot glass quick-ly and note the weight.

Next time you make your batch, add the appro-priate weight of binder and mix, instead of using your spray bottle. To be on the safe side, you can reduce the weight of binder just a bit, then if you need to add a bit more moisture, you can use your spray bottle.


Formul at i n g a Bat h B omb R ec i p e There’s nothing more satisfying than formulat-ing your own bath bomb recipe. Sure, you can use recipes found online or in books (such as this!) but formulating really helps you to create a unique product all your own. It also helps you tweak recipes that you might have found but need a bit of help with.

Putting together all the prior info on ingredients, here’s how I typically formulate a bath bomb recipe.

Create a base of baking soda and citric acid. The standard amount is 2 parts baking soda and 1part citric acid. You can change it up if you want to, though! I like to start out with a small batch so I’m not wasting ingredients during the formulation and testing phase.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)

1

Add a hardener or a blend of harden-ers. You can add 1-3 tablespoons of cream of tartar or kaolin clay.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)

2

Next, you can add 1-3 tablespoons of other additives such as milk powders, salts, corn starch, tapioca starch or arrowroot powder. If you would like foaming bath bombs, add 10-30 grams of fine SLSA.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Sea Salt – 1/2 tablespoon (10 grams)

3

Next, you can add an oil or butter. I typically add 1-2 teaspoons of oil or butter per cup (or 250 grams) of baking soda. I personally prefer light oils such as avocado oil or grapeseed oil.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Sea Salt – 1/2 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)

4


To emulsify the oil into your bath, add some polysorbate 80. Polysorbate 80 is added at half to equal amounts of your liquid oil or butter.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Sea Salt – 1/2 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)

5

And now we add the fragrance or es-sential oils. Fragrance is added at 1-2% depending on how strong you want your bath bombs. To add the correct percent-age, you’ll need to know the total num-ber of grams in your recipe for all the above ingredients that you have so far. If you want to stick to volume (cups and spoons) then you can estimate adding about a teaspoon of fragrance to this size batch. But I’d rather you be more exact! Especially if you plan on selling your products.

You’ll need to convert everything to weight, and since some of the measure-ments are small, I prefer grams over ounces. If you need help converting from volume to weight, read through the section, Measuring Ingredients: Volume Versus Weight on page 15 for help.

6

When I add up all the grams from my formula above, I end up with 395 grams. 1-2% of this is 3.9-7.9 grams. That is how much total fragrance I can add. I normally go with the 2% amount and round down to the nearest whole number. I’ll add 7 grams of essential oil to this formula.

Here is the complete formula that I’ve worked up!

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Sea Salt – 1/2 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 7 grams

7


Bat h B omb T i ps and Tr i c ks Bath bombs can be finicky to make, but don’t get frustrated! Read through these troubleshoot-ing tips so that as you’re making your bath bombs, you can know what to do if something goes wonky.

Humid Climates • Make sure you are including a hardener in your bath bombs such as kaolin clay or cream of tartar. • Use a dehumidifier in your production room. • Shrink wrap your bath bombs after they’ve dried. • Try to make bath bombs when humidity is under 40%. • Be careful with salt. Salt is a humectant and attracts moisture. During my tests, the bath bombs made with salt remained softer than the test batch with no salt. If it’s humid where you live, skip the salt or only add a small quantity. • Use a high percentage isopropyl alcohol as your binder.

Dry Climates • You might have to add a bit more oil to your recipe to reduce cracking. • Use witch hazel or water instead of alco-hol to wet your mixture.

Why did my bath bombs crack?

• This can happen when your mixture is too dry, especially if you live in a dry climate. Try adding more oil or use witch hazel or water (instead of alcohol) to spray your mixture. Witch hazel dries slower than alcohol and might help with cracking. • Bath bombs can also crack if you don’t pack the mixture hard enough. • Cracking can also be caused by the mix-ture fizzing from the inside because of too much moisture in your formula.

Why did my bath bombs crumble once unmolded?

• You probably didn’t pack the mixture tightly enough. Pack using more pressure. • You might also need more moisture in your recipe. Use witch hazel or water to wet your ingredients if you used alcohol. • Using a butter, such as cocoa butter, can help to create a harder bath bomb.

Why did my bath bomb flatten on the bottom?

• A flat bottom happens when you create a perfectly round bath bomb and set it to dry. You come back to it, and it has completely flattened on the hard surface you sat it on. • If your bath bombs get a flat bottom, it could mean you added a bit too much moisture in your recipe (perhaps you sprayed too much) or that it is humid where you are. Sometimes it just happens.

Fun in the Tub: Creating Bath Bombs, Solid Bubble Bath, Bubble Frosting and Bubble Scoops 21

• To reduce this issue, put your bath bombs on egg foam or bubble wrap to help sup-port the rounded shape. If you’re using large molds, leave your bath bomb inside the mold until it has had time to dry. The mold will support the shape. • If you live in a humid climate, you might consider not using salt at all, since salt is a humectant and draws moisture into itself. If you have bath bombs that are slumping and they contain salt, perhaps you should try a batch without salt and see if it helps. • Try using alcohol as your wetting ingre-dient. • Be sure to add hardeners to your formula.

Why did my bath bombs get warts or raised bumps?

• I’ve had this happen when I didn’t ful-ly mix in wet ingredients, such as oil. Be sure to fully mix your ingredients together, breaking up clumps with your hands as needed. • I’ve also had this happen when I add-ed too many sprays of binder. Spray less. Warting usually means that your mixture is too wet. • Salt can cause warting if it is humid where you live. It sucks moisture from the air and activates your mixture.

Why won’t the two sides of my bath bomb mold stick together?

• It could be that you didn’t get your mix wet enough. Try spraying a bit more until you get the correct consistency.

• This can also happen if your mixture is too wet. If you think your mixture is too wet, you can add some baking soda to dry it out a bit. • This can also happen if you don’t com-press the mixture enough. You can simply add more of your bath bomb mixture so that you have enough to fully pack the mold. Press hard! • Make sure your molds are clean and su-per dry! I like to clean my molds with soap and water, then spray with alcohol and let them dry. If your bath bomb mixture starts sticking to the mold halfway through molding, spray your mold with alcohol and wipe dry. Continue molding.

Storing your bath bombs. • Your bath bombs need to dry for about 12-24 hours. After that though, you’ll want to store them in an airtight container. This is because they can absorb moisture from the air, which can cause issues. • I personally use plastic shoe storage con-tainers or Tupperware containers to store my bath bombs.


Bat h B omb R ec i p esI highly encourage you to formulate your own bath bomb recipes based on the guidelines out-lined earlier in this book. But I certainly under-stand that some people simply want to dip their toe in the water to try things out! Here are some of my favorite recipes that you can try.

This no-frills bath bomb recipe is quick and easy. It doesn’t include many hardeners or fillers. Make this one if you live in a low-hu-midity area.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1/4 cup (36 grams)• Fragrance – 6 grams

Super Simple Bath Bomb

This is my all-time favorite formula. It in-cludes hardeners, fillers, and oil.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 6 grams

My Favorite Bath Bomb

Bath bombs can be super finicky to make in humid conditions. If you’re having trouble making them where you live because of the humidity, try this recipe. It includes harden-ers, omits salt and reduces the polysorbate 80 and fragrance. Reducing the poly 80 and fragrance helps to create a drier formula. I also use cocoa butter instead of a liquid oil to help harden the bombs. Be sure to use alcohol in your binder as it evaporates quickly, leaving behind a hard bomb. Try 50%-70% alcohol.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 2 tablespoons (24 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Cocoa Butter – 2 teaspoons (10 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams

Bath Bombs for Higher Humidity

To each recipe, you can add your own colorants and fragrances to create unique and interesting bombs!


This recipe has SLSA to create foam along with the fizz.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• SLSA – 20 grams• Shea Butter – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams

Foaming Bath Bomb with SLSA

This recipe has milk powder to create foam along with the fizz.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Milk Powder – 2 tablespoons (24 grams)• Shea Butter – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams

Foaming Bath Bomb with Milk Powder

This recipe includes oatmeal to sooth your skin.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Ground Oats – 1 tablespoon (5 grams)• Sunflower Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 7 grams

Oatmeal Bath Bomb

This recipe includes a high amount of Ep-som salts, perfect for soaking sore muscles.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Epsom Salt – ¼ cup (60 grams)• Cocoa Butter – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams

Epsom Salt Bath Bomb


Shower steamers are fun and easy to make. They are used a bit differently than regu-lar bath bombs. To use a shower steamer, place it on a small plate in the corner of your shower. As you shower, the water hits the steamer, releasing the menthol. Breath deeply. They are great to use when you have a cold and need to open your sinuses.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 2 tablespoons (24 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1/2 cup (70 grams)• Menthol Crystals - 10 grams• Isopropyl Alcohol - 15 grams

To make these shower steamers you will have to dissolve the menthol crystals in alcohol. Combine menthol crystals with al-cohol and stir. Microwave for 5-10 seconds to heat. This will allow the menthol crystals to dissolve easily.

Pour your menthol mixture into all of the dry ingredients and mix well. Continue making your bombs following the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions on page 28 onward.

I don’t add any other oil or liquid ingre-dients to shower steamers since you don’t soak in them. They go right down the drain.

Warning! Because of the high fragrance load in these, do not use them like regular bath bombs. These should be used in the shower only to release the scent.

Shower Steamers with Menthol Crystals

These work the same as the shower steam-ers with menthol crystals, but are scented with essential oils instead. Use sinus open-ing essential oils.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 2 tablespoons (24 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Ar-rowroot Powder – 1/2 cup (70 grams)• Eucalyptus Essential Oil - 5 grams • Peppermint Essential Oil - 5 grams

I don’t add any other oil or liquid ingre-dients to shower steamers since you don’t soak in them. They go right down the drain.

Follow the Basic Bath Bomb steps on page 26 to make these.

Warning! Because of the high fragrance load in these, do not use them like regular bath bombs. These should be used in the shower only to release the scent.

Shower Steamers with Essential Oils


Keep of jar of these toilet bombs in your bathroom to keep your toilet sparkly clean. Toss one in your toilet, allow it to fizz and then use your brush to scrub away grime. I use washing soda instead of baking soda and add borax for a cleaning boost.

• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Borax - 1/4 cup (50 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Orange Essential Oil - 8 grams

Follow the Basic Bath Bomb steps on page 26 to make these.

Toilet BombsThese are fun to make and wonderful in the tub. They have a high amount of Epsom salt, which helps to ease tired and sore muscles.

• Epsom Salt - 1 cup (150 grams)• Baking Soda – 1/2 cup (125 grams)• Citric Acid – 1/4 cup (50 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Fragrance - 6 grams

Follow the Basic Bath Bomb steps on page 26 to make these. Once you get a mixture wet enough to stick together, it will still be crumbly when compressed. It doesn’t firm up exactly like regular bath bomb mixture. Mold and then allow to dry. As soon as they do dry, package in airtight packaging. Salt is hygroscopic and loves to pull moisture from the air. If you have any bit of humidity in your workshop area, they might not firm up. Use a dehumidifier to help dry if needed.

To use, simply drop in your tub and swirl around to dissolve.

Solid Salt Soak


Ba s i c Bat h B ombPro ces s

Let’s use my favorite bath bomb recipe and make a batch of bath bombs. We’ll walk through the basic process step-by-step.

Ingredients• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Arrow-root Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 6 grams • Red Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas)

NOTE: Remember that you can measure your ingredients by weight or volume. Weight is more accurate and leaves less room for error. When adding color to your bath bombs, sim-ply add about a small pea-sized amount, mix, then add more if needed.

Equipment• Mixing bowl• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Meat baller (or mold of your choice)• Face mask, gloves and hair net• Spray bottle with binder

Yield: 6-7 Bath Bombs

InstructionsStep 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container (a small measuring cup works well), measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix them to-gether (IMG 1). If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first.

Step 2: Add your coloring to the dry mix and mix using a hand mixer to disperse (IMG 2).

Step 3: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix (IMG 3). If you let it sit, it will react and fizz.

Mix for about a minute. This helps to break up clumps and aerate the mixture. You can also break up any clumps using your hands if need-ed. Remember that oil clumps in your mixture can cause warting, so be sure to break them up (IMG 4).

Step 4: Test your mixture to see if it’s ready. It shouldn’t be ready yet, but I want you to feel it and see how it looks at this stage.

To test your mixture, grab a handful of mixture and squeeze it to compress. Note the results. Does it stay compressed or does it fall apart? If your mixture is anything like mine, it will crum-ble easily and won’t hold its shape (IMG 5 & 6).


IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6


Step 5: Wet the mixture using your binder spray to get it to the correct consistency for molding. You know that you’ve wet the mixture enough when it feels like lightly damp sand, not like wet sand, which would be too wet. When com-pressed using your hand, the mixture should stay together and not crumble.

Wet your mixture using a fine-mist spray bot-tle of binder. Spray five times, then test again. Because your spray bottle will vary from mine, I can’t tell you exactly how many sprays it will take. Test often to not over-spray.

I test after 10 sprays. Not quite there; see how it easily falls apart (IMG 7)? But we’re close! I sprayed five more times, and now it’s perfect (IMG 8)!

I like to test mine by tapping it with my thumb (IMG 9). It should stay together and not break apart easily. Some makers hold the clump of mixture in the air (maybe 10-12 inches) and drop it into the bowl. If it stays together, it’s ready.

This really is the hardest part! If you can get this part down, you can successfully make bath bombs! Here are some tips:

• Test your mixture often to not over-spray. Spray five times and then test it. Not ready? Spray another five times. You’ll soon know how much it takes and can spray more between testing. Don’t overdo it when first starting. • Use a fine-mist spray bottle to have better control and dispersion of the spray. Don’t use a huge plastic spray bottle from the cleaning aisle at the supermarket. Those will spray too much. You can order a fine-mist spray bottle online or find one in herb shops for creating essential oil sprays. • If you do add too much moisture, you can add a bit more baking soda and/or citric acid to dry it out.

IMG 7

IMG 8

IMG 9


Step 6: Now that your mixture is the perfect consistency, it’s time to mold! I’m using a meat baller to mold these, but you can use another bath bomb mold if you want.

Using your meat baller, grab a full scoop of mix-ture (IMG 10).

Don’t be afraid to over-fill your scoop (IMG 11)! If your scoop comes together easily, you didn’t grab enough. Empty the scoop and try again.

Press your meat baller hard to compress the mixture. Use your whole hand to press the piec-es of the mold together (IMG 12).

IMG 10

IMG 11

IMG 12


Place your thumb and finger into the holes on each side and press hard to compress even more (IMG 13)!

While pushing your thumb down into the hole, gently release the meat baller to allow the top to pull up (IMG 14). It is a bit of a push-pull action and might not make sense until you try it. Flip your bomb over to finish removing (IMG 15). If gravity doesn’t cause your bomb to sim-ply fall out, push through the hole to help it fall out. Ta-da! A perfect bath bomb!

If your bath bomb crumbles or breaks during unmolding, simply mix back into the batch and start over with molding.

Finish molding all your bath bombs. This batch should make about six bombs.

Using a meat baller to mold bath bombs can sometimes be a bit tricky. Here are some tips:

• Make sure that your meat baller is clean and very dry. If it has any oil or powder on it, it will cause your bombs to stick to the inside of the mold. I wash mine, then spray with alcohol, then dry using a clean, dry cloth.• If you make a few bombs, then they start sticking, clean your meat baller by spray-ing with alcohol and drying well. It should start working again.

IMG 13

IMG 14

IMG 15


Drying Your Bath BombsAllow your bath bombs to dry for at least 12-24 hours before you package. This allows the bind-er (alcohol/witch hazel/water) time to evaporate, creating a super hard bomb.

Many bath bomb makers place their bath bombs on bubble wrap or egg-crate foam to help them keep their shape. Occasionally a bomb will go slightly flat if put on a hard surface to dry.

Other bath bomb makers put their bombs in a warm oven to dry. I haven’t had much luck with this, but it is worth trying if you’re feeling adven-turous. Sometimes the light from your oven is warm enough to dry the bombs.

Others place their bath bombs on a cookie sheet of sea salt to help pull the moisture out and dry them.

Experiment with the various methods to see what works best for your climate!

If you’d like to automate your bath bomb pro-duction, you might consider getting a press. The only press that I’ve had the pleasure of using is Electra-Press from Muddy Soap Co. Normally, you might need to reformulate your bath bomb recipe to use in a press (if you were currently hand-molding) but the Basic Bath Bomb Recipe in this book worked perfectly with Electra-Press. www.muddysoapco.com

Pros: A machine can save your hands and wrists from wear and tear. They make perfectly formed bath bombs that look the same every time. Most presses come with tons of different forms and designs that you can’t find for hand pressing.

Cons: Molding can be tricky until you perfect your recipe. A press mold might require more or less mix than what you’re used to when hand molding. Presses can also be quite expensive. But if you’re making a ton of bath bombs, a press is worth its weight in gold, saving your hands and wrist from undue stress.

Us in g a Bat h B omb Pr es s


Two Co l or Bat h B omb D es i gn

In this design tutorial, I’ll show you how to make a two-colored bath bomb!

Ingredients• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Arrow-root Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 7 grams • Blue Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas)• Yellow Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas)

Equipment• 2 mixing bowls• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Meat baller (or mold of your choice)• Face mask, gloves and hair net• Spray bottle with binder


InstructionsStep 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container (a small measuring cup works well), measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix. If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first.

Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix. If you let it sit, it will react and fizz.

Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Mix for about a minute. This helps to break up clumps and aerate the mix-ture. You can also break up any clumps using your hands if needed.

Step 4: Divide the mixture into two bowls. Add a different powdered color to each and mix us-ing your hand mixer until the color is complete-ly dispersed (IMG 1). If you feel like you need to add more color, do so now.

Step 5: Wet each mixture using a fine-mist spray bottle of binder until you get to the perfect molding consistency (IMG 2). Refer to the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions (pg 28) for more detailed instructions. Step 6: Using your hand, dig little trenches into one of the bases. Fill the trenches with the other base to create stripes. There really isn’t a right or wrong way to do this step; here is how I layer the colors into one bowl (IMG 3).

Step 7: Scoop using the scooping methods in Basic Bath Bomb, step 6 directions (pg 29). As you scoop, you’ll get a bit of both colors and create a beautifully swirled bath bomb (IMG 4 & 5).


IMG 1

IMG 3

IMG 5

IMG 2

IMG 4

IMG 6


Foam ing Bat h B omb s

By adding SLSA to your formula you can create a foaming bath bomb that fills your tub with bubble bath!

Ingredients• Baking Soda – 1 cup (250 grams)• Citric Acid – ½ cup (100 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1/8 cup (20 grams) • Cream of Tartar – 1 tablespoon (12 grams)• Kaolin Clay – 1 tablespoon (3 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Arrow-root Powder – 1 tablespoon (10 grams)• Avocado Oil – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 7 grams • Blue Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas) - 1/8 teaspoon• Yellow Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas) - 1/4 teaspoon

Equipment• 2 mixing bowls• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Meat baller (or mold of your choice)• Face mask, gloves and hair net• Spray bottle with binder


InstructionsWARNING: SLSA loves to become airborne (when measuring and mixing it). You can breathe it in easi-ly. Wear a mask when working with SLSA and work in a well-ventilated area.

Step 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container (a small measuring cup works well), measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix. If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first.

Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredi-ents and immediately start to mix. If you let it sit, it will react and fizz. Cover the mixture with a towel, as the SLSA likes to become airborne.

Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Mix for about a minute. This helps to break up clumps and aerate the mixture. You can also break up any clumps using your hands if need-ed. Step 4: Divide the mixture into two bowls. Add color to each and mix using your hand mixer until the color is completely dispersed.

I added about 1/8 teaspoon of yellow to each bowl and a small scoop of blue to one bowl. Yellow + blue gave me the pretty green. Blend using your mixer. If you feel like you need to add more color, do so now.

Step 5: Wet each mixture using a fine-mist spray bottle of binder until you get to the perfect molding consistency (IMG 1). Refer to the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions (pg 28) for more detailed instruc-tions. Step 6: Layer the bath bomb mixtures into one bowl (IMG 2). Refer to Two Color Bath Bomb Design, step 6 directions (pg 32). Step 7: Scoop using the scooping methods in Basic Bath Bomb, step 6 directions (pg 29) (IMG 3).


Check out the difference between a regular bath bomb and a foaming bath bomb! The red/yellow is the regular bath bomb and the green/yellow is the foaming bath bomb (IMG 5). Right off the bat things are similar; although the red is more “fizzy,” while the green is “foamier” (IMG 6). The fizz from the regular bath bomb disappears quickly. But check out the foam from the green bath bomb! Bubble bath success (IMG 7)!

IMG 1

IMG 3

IMG 5

IMG 2

IMG 4

IMG 6 IMG 7


Co coa Bu t t e r Dr i z zl e

This recipe creates a drizzle you can use to decorate bath bomb donuts or other bath bomb creations. You can simply use cocoa but-ter, but this recipe creates a drizzle that more easily dissolves in the tub. Cocoa butter is the butter of choice with its high melt point be-cause it dries to such a hard consistency. Using shea or mango, softer butters, might create a sticky drizzle.

Ingredients• Cocoa Butter – 20 grams• Polysorbate 80 – 10 grams• Baking Soda – 40 grams• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) – 10 grams• Mica, lake or dye

Equipment• Glass measuring cup • Digital scale• Spoon

Yield: Drizzle for about 4-6 donuts

Step 3: Drizzle onto your bath bombs (IMG 1)!

Tips:• Make sure your bath bombs are dry before adding your drizzle. A little of the bath bomb might activate, but not enough to ruin the bomb. You just might get a little puffiness where the drizzle touches the bath bomb. • You can simply use cocoa butter and baking soda without the SLSA. The SLSA simply gives it some bubbles and helps it dissolve in the bath. • You can add more powders (baking soda/SLSA) to make a thicker mixture for dip-ping or spreading like glaze. You can dip bath bombs to look like truffles. Just get your drizzle to the consistency of dipping chocolate and dip your bath bombs in. • Place your donuts onto a cookie cooling rack on top of aluminum foil so that excess drizzle has somewhere to fall and won’t pool around the donuts.

InstructionsStep 1: Weigh cocoa butter into a small glass measuring cup and melt.

Step 2: Once melted, add the baking soda, SLSA polysorbate 80 and powder colorant and mix well.

Note: Add about 1/8 teaspoon of colorant. Mix and add more if you’d like a darker color. For this batch I added Voodoo mica from Mad Mi-cas and then when I had drizzled enough red, I added Grape Nehi Mica from Mad Micas to color the rest of the red drizzle purple.

IMG 1

InstructionsStep 1: Scoop anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of mica into a small bowl and add polysorbate drops. Step 2: Add just enough alcohol to wet the mixture, creating a fluid consistency. If it’s more of a paste (left image), add a bit more alcohol to make it runny (right image).

Step 3: Drizzle or paint the mixture onto your bath bombs (IMG 1 & 2). Tips:

• Make sure your bath bombs are dry before adding your drizzle or paint. A little of the bath bomb might activate. You might get a little puffiness where the drizzle or paint touches the bath bomb.


M i ca Dr i z zl e or Pa in t

Drizzle using a pipette.

Or paint using a paint brush. I like these thicker brushes for creating thick strokes.

Combining mica and alcohol is an easy way to create a drizzle or paint for bath bombs.

Ingredients• Isopropyl Alcohol (highest proof you can find) • Mica – 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon • Polysorbate 80 - 1 drop per teaspoon of mica

Equipment• Small shot glass or dipping bowl• Pipette or paint brush

IMG 3

IMG 2

IMG 1


Sa lt S pr i nkl esSome makers like to use candy sprinkles in their bath creations. For some reason, I don’t want to use sugar products in mine. Just a personal preference. If you’re like me, you can easily color salt to create sprinkles! Use either mica, lakes or dye. I prefer mica to give it a little shimmer. These colorful salt sprinkles can be embedded in bath bombs (like my geode gemstones below) or sprinkled on top of cup-cakes, bath truffles and donuts.

Ingredients• Sea Salt or Epsom Salt (a larger grain size looks more like candy sprinkles) – 2 tablespoons or more• Isopropyl Alcohol (highest proof you can find)• Mica, lake or dye • Polysorbate 80 - 1 drop per tablespoon of salt

Equipment• Small bowl• Spoon

Yield: Varies

Step 4: Spread onto a plate covered in wax pa-per to dry.

Step 5: Once dry, add the sprinkles to your cre-ations! I sprinkled them into a hard plastic mold and then pressed the bath bomb on top (IMG 3 & 4).

InstructionsStep 1: Scoop a couple of tablespoons of salt into a small bowl. Mix in polysorbate 80.

Step 2: Dust a little colorant onto the salt. You don’t need much! Just a tiny scoop (IMG 1). Step 3: Spray with a few sprays of alcohol from a fine mist sprayer and mix using a spoon. Add more color if needed (IMG 2).

IMG 1

IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Mix for about a minute and be sure to break up any clumps.

Step 4: Divide the mixture into three bowls. Add powdered color to each bowl and mix using your hand mixer until the color is completely dispersed. If you feel like you need to add more color, do so now.

Step 5: Wet each mixture using a fine-mist spray bottle of binder until you get to the perfect molding consistency (IMG 1). Refer to the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions (pg 28) for more detailed instructions.

Step 6: Once you reach the correct consistency, layer each color into the mold. Be sure to press down very firmly so that it’s tightly packed into the mold (IMG 2). Step 7: Allow your unicorn horn bath bombs to dry in the mold for about an hour.

Step 8: Turn upside down onto a cutting board and tap down to release. They should fall right out (IMG 3)!

InstructionsStep 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container (a small measuring cup works well), measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix.

Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix.


Un i corn Horn Bat h B omb s

Unicorn anything is all the rage these days. This popsicle mold makes adorable unicorn horn bath bombs. To find the mold, search unicorn horn bath bomb mold or swirl ice pop maker on Amazon, and it should pop up.

Ingredients• Choose any of the recipes from page 22 and double the batch. • Grape Nehi Mica (Mad Micas) – ¼ teaspoon• Voodoo Mica (Mad Micas) – ¼ tea-spoon • Blue Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas) - 1/8 teaspoon

Equipment• 3 mixing bowls• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Unicorn horn mold

Yield: 6 Bath Bombs

IMG 3

IMG 1 IMG 2


Cr eat i n g Co l orful Emb e d s

Have you seen the bath bombs where the little jets of color shoot out as it dissolves? Those are usually made with embeds. Create con-centrated and colorful bite-sized bath bombs to embed into bigger ones. As the large bath bomb dissolves, and the water hits the colorful little embeds, jets of color will shoot out.

Don’t add a fragrance so you can use them in any batch you make. Using equal parts baking soda and citric acid will create embeds that dissolve quicker than your main bath bomb. Dyes work best as they disperse easily in wa-ter. If you create embeds with lake colors or mica, you’ll need to add polysorbate 80. Omit if you’re using dyes.

Ingredients• Baking Soda – 1/2 cup (125 grams)• Citric Acid – 1/2 cup (100 grams)• Polysorbate 80 – 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Colorants of your choice

Equipment• Mixing bowls• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Teaspoon or mini ice cube trays• Scraper • Face mask, gloves and hair net

Step 1: Measure or weigh all the ingredients into your mixing bowl. Wait to add color if you’re making more than one color.

Step 2: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Mix for about a minute and be sure to break up any clumps if using polysorbate 80.

Step 3: Divide the mixture into bowls, one for each color you want to make. Add powdered color to each bowl and mix using your hand mixer until the color is completely dispersed (IMG 1). Create saturated colors by adding extra colorant so they are sure to show up in the tub.

Step 4: Wet each mixture using a fine-mist spray bottle of binder until you get to the perfect molding consistency (IMG 2). Refer to the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions (pg 28) for more detailed instructions.

Step 5: Press your mixture into your mold. I like using mini ice cube trays to create tiny embeds. I overfill this mold and then use a small plastic scraper to scrape off the extra mixture (IMG 3 & 4).

Step 6: Unmold your embeds by turning the mini ice cube tray over onto a hard surface (IMG 5). You might have to twist and bang the mold down to unmold.

Step 7: Allow the embeds to dry, then store in an airtight container.

Step 8: To use them, simply embed into a larger bath bomb as you pack (IMG 6 & 7). You can use a few or as many as you like!


IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6

IMG 7 IMG 8


If you feel like you need to add more color, do so now.

Step 5: Wet each mixture using a fine-mist spray bottle of binder until you get it to the perfect molding consistency (IMG 1). Refer to the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions (pg 28) for more detailed instructions. Step 6: Once you reach the correct consistency for each color, layer each side of the egg mold with the different colors. Be sure to press down very firmly to make sure it’s tightly packed. Overfill each side as shown below (IMG 2). Step 7: Smoosh both sides of the egg togeth-er firmly and twist slightly if you need to drop some of the mix from the middle. Hold together firmly for at least 10 seconds.

Step 8: Very gently squeeze and twist one side of the mold slightly to remove the mixture. Turn it over in your hand and remove the other side (IMG 3).

Step 9: I like to dry my eggs in one side of the mold. This helps it keep its shape while it dries.




Step 4: Divide the mixture into two bowls. Add color to each and mix using your hand mixer until the color is completely dispersed.

Eg g - S h a p e d Bat h B omb s

These egg-shaped bath bombs are perfect for Easter or spring time!

Ingredients• Choose any of the recipes from page 22. • Grape Nehi Mica (Mad Micas) – ½ teaspoon• Blue Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas) - 1/8 teaspoon

Equipment• 2 mixing bowls• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Plastic Easter eggs

Yield: 2 Large and 2 Small Bath Bombs

IMG 2 IMG 1

IMG 3

Step 4: Add the orange colorant and mix to blend.

Step 5: Wet the mixture using a fine-mist spray bottle of binder until you get to the perfect molding consistency. Refer to the Basic Bath Bomb, step 5 directions (pg 28) for more de-tailed instructions.

Step 6: Sprinkle a bit of dried rose petals into one side of the mold (IMG 1). Step 7: Fill both sides of the heart mold. Be sure to press down very firmly to make sure it is tightly packed. Overfill each side as shown below (IMG 2). Step 8: Smoosh both sides together firmly and twist slightly if you need to drop some of the mix from the middle. Hold together firmly for at least 10 seconds (IMG 3). Step 9: Very gently remove one side of the mold from the bath bomb. Turn it over in your hand and remove the other side (IMG 4).





Fl ower Bat h B omb s

Adding dried flowers such as rose petals, lav-ender, calendula and jasmine is an easy way to decorate your bath bombs.

Ingredients• Choose any of the recipes from page 22. • Orange Certified Bath Bomb Lake (Mad Micas) – 1/8 teaspoon• Dried Rose Petals

Equipment• 1 mixing bowl• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Heart shaped ornament mold from craft store

Yield: Varies IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

S o l i d Bubb l e Bat h and Bubb l e S co ops ( Bubb l e Bars )Solid bubble bath is so much fun to use! You can form all sorts of colorful and whimsical shapes. Hold it under running water in your bath tub, and your bath tub will fill with bubbles and a beautiful fragrance!


Common In gr e d i en ts Solid bubble bath and bubble scoops use the same ingredients. So what is the different be-tween solid bubble bath and bubble scoops? Not much! Solid bubble bath that is rolled will require a bit more liquid (glycerin or liquid surfactant) to make a more squishy and pliable dough. Bubble scoops can be made using a stiff-er dough, so they don’t spread or slouch after being made.

SLSA (Sodium Laurel Sul-foacetate)The base of solid bubble bath is SLSA (Sodium Laurel Sulfoacetate). SLSA is a surfactant that is derived from coconut and palm oils. There is also another powder surfactant called SLS (Sodi-um Lauryl Sulfate) but it can be irritating to the skin, so is mostly avoided by makers.

SLSA is a synthetic surfactant used to create solid bubble bath and foaming bath bombs that create a bubble bath experience. When im-mersed in water it foams and bubbles just like liquid bubble bath out of a bottle.

An important note on SLSA:

There are two types of SLSA: fine and coarse. The recipes in this book are formulated to use fine SLSA from Bramble Berry and other suppli-ers. If you use coarse SLSA, you will need to cut the liquid (glycerin + liquid surfactant) in half and add a bit at a time until you get the perfect consistency. If you add the full amount of liquid at one time to coarse SLSA, it will start reacting in the bowl, and you’ll never get it hard enough.

Liquid SurfactantI like to add a liquid surfactant to my solid bubble bath to boost the foam. If you don’t have it, you can simply add more glycerin. There are several different types of liquid surfactants. My favorite is simply cocamidopropyl betaine, a mild surfactant that comes from coconut oil.

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)Baking soda is what gives our solid bubble bath body and weight. When combined with the liquid surfactant and glycerin, it creates a dough-like substance that can be rolled, shaped, scooped and formed.

Cosmetic Clay Clays are a wonderful addition to solid bubble bath. Not only do they help to harden your solid bubble bath, but clay is wonderful to soak in. Clay has drawing abilities, minerals and detox-ification properties. I typically use kaolin clay in my solid bubble bath, but you can use all sorts of clay including pink clay, bentonite clay, French green…etc.

Liquid GlycerinLiquid glycerin is a humectant. When combined with baking soda and SLSA, it creates a bubble bath dough.



Cream of Tartar (Potassium Bitartrate)Cream of tartar helps to harden solid bubble bath.

Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch & Arrowroot PowderMany solid bubble bath makers include one of these in their formula as a filler and skin-soften-er. They also help your bubble bath to dissolve a bit slower under running water.

Carrier Oils & ButtersCarrier oils and butters are emollients in the tub, meaning they sooth, soften and hydrate the skin. As your bubble bath dissolves, it releases the oils and butters, depositing them on your skin as you bathe and exit the water. Refer to Carrier Oils & Butters under Common Bath Bomb Ingre-dients on page 8 for more information.

Emulsifiers Polysorbate 80 – In bath bombs and solid bub-ble bath, polysorbate 80 is an emulsifier and helps to blend the oils (both fragrant and carrier oils) into your bath water. For more information refer to Emulsifiers under Common Bath Bomb Ingredients on page 8 for more information.

Coloring Your Solid Bubble BathAll the same colorants that we use in bath bombs can be used in solid bubble bath. Re-fer to the Coloring Your Bath Bombs section on page 9 for more information.

Scenting Your Solid Bubble BathJust like with bath bombs, you can use both fragrance oils and essential oils in solid bubble bath. Refer to the Scenting Your Bath Bombs section on page 11 for more information.

S o l i d Bubb l e Bat h T i ps and Tr i c ks Solid bubble bath can be finicky to make! But don’t get frustrated. Read through these trouble-shooting tips so, as you’re making your bubble bars, you can know what to do if something turns wonky.

Humid ClimatesHumidity plays a role in your solid bubble bath production. If it’s humid where you live, your bars might not harden as much as you’d like. Glycerin is one of the main ingredients. Glycer-in is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture to itself. So, if you have bars that are sitting out in humidity, they can absorb moisture and become soft even after they’ve hardened up.

• As soon as your bars get hard, wrap them in shrink wrap or something similar that is air-tight. • If you have trouble with your bars dry-ing in the first place, put them in a closet with a dehumidifier to help dry them. Then wrap in air-tight packaging. • Solid bubble bath is best made in non-humid conditions.

Bubble bar dough is sticky.

• If your dough is too sticky, simply add more baking soda to dry it out.

Bubble bar dough is hard and dry.

• If your dough is so solid that all it wants to do is crack or break when you’re rolling it, add more glycerin. • Also, be sure you’re mixing the dough enough. Sometimes your dough will loos-en as you mix and knead the dough.

Your bubble bar dough expands in mixing bowl.

• Check your SLSA. Are you using fine or coarse? Coarse will require less liquid than the recipes in this book, which use fine SLSA. If you’re using coarse SLSA, start with 50% of the glycerin and liquid sur-factant and add a little at a time until you reach the right consistency.• Too much liquid can make your SLSA ac-tivate. Make sure you’re using the amount that a recipe specifies.

Storing your solid bubble bath.Your solid bubble bath needs to dry for 24-48 hours. Once they are dry and hard to the touch, you’ll need to store them in airtight containers or go ahead and wrap them in shrink wrap. Moisture in the air can cause them to soften again even after they’ve become hard.



Ro l l e d S o l i d Bubb l e Bat h

These whimsical rolled bubble bars are fun to make. You can use as few as two colors or as many as you’re brave enough to try!

Ingredients• Baking Soda – 2 cups + 3 tablespoons (550 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1 cup (160 grams)• Cream of Tartar - 1/4 cup (50 grams)• Corn Starch, Tapioca Starch or Arrow-root Powder - 1/4 cup (36 grams) • Kaolin Clay - 2 tablespoons (6 grams)• Liquid Surfactant - 1/4 cup (60 grams)• Liquid Glycerin - 3/4 cup (120 grams) • Avocado Oil - 2 teaspoons (10 grams)• Polysorbate 80 - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 10 grams • Red, Blue and Yellow Bath Bomb Lake Colorants (Mad Micas) - 1/16 teaspoon• Grape Nehi Mica (Mad Micas) - 1/4 teaspoon

Equipment• 4 mixing bowls• Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Wax paper• Rolling pin• Face mask, gloves and hair net

InstructionsStep 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredi-ents into your mixing bowl. In another

container measure or weigh all the wet ingredi-ents and mix. If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first (IMG 1). Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix.

Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Be sure to cover the bowl with a towel so that the SLSA doesn’t become airborne while mixing. Wear a mask.

Here is what your mixture should look like if you used a hand mixer (IMG 2). Don’t be con-cerned if it isn’t a smooth dough at this point. If you use a stand mixer, you might have more of a dough consistency. Even though the mixture looks a bit dry, if you grab some and knead it a bit, it will come to-gether like a dough. Grab some and test it (IMG 3). Step 4: Divide the mixture into four containers to add the color. Add colorant to each container and mix using your mixer (IMG 4 & 5). If you want a more concentrated color, add more colorant.

Step 5: Use your hands to knead the dough like pie crust, folding it together until the color becomes consistent and the dough becomes smooth and soft (IMG 6). If you have a stand mixer, you can probably do this using the dough paddle.

This rolled solid bubble bath recipe is looser than the bubble scoop recipe, since we’ll need to roll the bars. It requires a more pliable dough.

I like to make my dough as stiff as I can but still be able to roll it. If you want an even looser dough, you can add more liquid glycerin. It will just take more time to dry.


IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6


Step 6: Dust a piece of wax paper with a bit of starch. Flatten your balls of dough and pile on top of each other. Step 7: Sprinkle with starch and form a rough rectangle (IMG 7). Step 8: Cover with wax paper and flatten a bit using your hands (IMG 8).

Step 9: Use a rolling pin to roll out even thinner (IMG 9). Try to maintain the rectangle shape as best you can. Roll thin for lots of rings or keep thick for fatter rings. I rolled mine thin for lots of thin layered rings.

Step 10: If you have any wonky edges, cut them off and set aside (IMG 10). I like to cut at least one straight edge to start my roll.

IMG 8

IMG 9

IMG 10

IMG 7


Step 11: Using the bottom piece of wax paper, roll your solid bubble bath (IMG 11). With each turn squeeze the mixture together as you roll (IMG 12). You don’t want air trapped between layers. If your dough is quite dusty with starch, spray with isopropyl alcohol to help it stick to-gether as you roll. Roll until you’ve rolled the whole batch. No-tice that I have some cracks (IMG 13)? That’s okay. I could add more glycerin next time, but I’d rather have a few cracks and have a bar that dries quickly than a bar that takes longer to dry because of added glycerin. Step 12: Slice your bubble bars using a smooth blade knife (IMG 14). Let them dry for 24-48 hours. If you add more glycerin, you’ll need to let them dry for longer.

IMG 11

IMG 12

IMG 13

IMG 14


L avend e r L emon Bubb l e S co ops ( Two Co l or D es i gn )

Relax in the tub with these balancing and re-laxing bubble scoops.

Ingredients• Baking Soda - 1.5 cups (375 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1/2 cup (80 grams)• Cream of Tartar - 1/8 cup (25 grams)• Tapioca Starch - 1/8 cup (18 grams) • Kaolin Clay - 2 tablespoons (6 grams)• Liquid Surfactant - 1/8 cup (30 grams)• Liquid Glycerin - 1/4 cup (60 grams)• Avocado Oil - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Lavender Essential Oil – 8 grams• Grape Nehi Mica from Mad Oils -1 teaspoon• Yellow Bath Bomb Lake Colorants (Mad Micas) - 1/8 teaspoon

Equipment• 2 mixing bowls • Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Ice cream scoop• Face mask, gloves and hair net

Yield: 6-7 Scoops

Instructions

Step 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container, measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix (IMG 1). If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first.

Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix. Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Be sure to cover the bowl with a towel so that the SLSA doesn’t become airborne while mixing. Wear a mask. Here is what your mixture should look like if you used a hand mixer (IMG 2). Don’t be con-cerned if it isn’t a smooth dough at this point. If you use a stand mixer, you might have more of a dough consistency.

Test the dough by kneading a bit of it together. It should be a stiff-moldable consistency (IMG 3). If it is crumbly or too dry, add a bit more glycer-in.

Step 4: Divide the mixture into two containers. Add colorant to each container. Mix well. Step 5: Use your hands to knead the dough like pie crust, folding it together until the color becomes consistent and the dough becomes smooth and soft (IMG 4). If you have a stand mixer, you can probably do this using the dough paddle. If you do feel like your dough is too stiff to scoop, go ahead and add some extra glycerin and blend well.

Step 6: Pinch off pieces of each color and layer them in the bowl as shown (IMG 5).

Step 7: Squeeze the mixture together to com-press (IMG 6).


IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6


Step 8: Scoop out a scoop-full of dough. Pat the back flat using your fingers (IMG 7). Step 9: Release onto wax paper or a cutting board (IMG 8). Let the scoops dry for 24-48 hours. If you add more glycerin, you’ll need to let them dry lon-ger.

Tip: If you have any leftover dough from any of the solid bubble bath recipes, simply press using a Moon Cake press. I used 50 grams for each bar. If your dough is sticky, dust a little tapioca starch into the press before using. Spray your final bar with isopropyl alcohol to remove the dust after pressing.

IMG 7

IMG 8

R a s pb e rry Bubb l e S co ops (Ve rt i ca l Str i p e D es i gn )

These adorable bubble scoops are made using a vertical striped design. I use two colors in this tutorial, but you can use as many as you’d like in your own!

Ingredients• Baking Soda - 1.5 cups (375 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1/2 cup (80 grams)• Cream of Tartar - 1/8 cup (25 grams)• Tapioca Starch - 1/8 cup (18 grams) • Kaolin Clay - 2 tablespoons (6 grams)• Liquid Surfactant - 1/8 cup (30 grams)• Liquid Glycerin - 1/4 cup (60 grams)• Avocado Oil - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams• Flirt Mica (Mad Mica) - 1/2 teaspoon• Flash Dance Mica (Mad Mica) - 1/2 teaspoon


Yield: 6-7 Scoops

Step 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container, measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix. If you’re using a butter in place of the avo-cado oil, be sure to melt it first.

Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix. Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer (IMG 1). Be sure to cover the bowl with a towel so the SLSA doesn’t become airborne while mixing. Wear a mask.

Test the dough by kneading a bit of it together. It should be a stiff-moldable consistency. If it’s crumbly or too dry, add a bit more glycerin. Step 4: Divide the mixture into three containers. Add ½ teaspoon of Flirt mica to one container and ½ teaspoon of Flash Dance mica to another. Leave the third container white. Mix using your mixer (IMG 2). If you want a more concentrated color, add more mica.

Step 5: Use your hands to knead the dough like pie crust, folding it together until the color becomes consistent and the dough becomes smooth and soft (IMG 3). If you have a stand mixer, you can probably do this using the dough paddle. Step 6: Divide each color of dough as shown (IMG 3). I divided each pink into two balls and the white into four balls (IMG 4 & 5).

Step 7: Flatten and stack the dough as shown (IMG 6). Be sure to keep them in order. I did white, dark pink, white, light pink, white, dark pink, white and then light pink.



IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6


Step 8: Since we know this recipe makes 6 bub-ble scoops, slice the stack of dough into 6 equal slices.

Here is what it each slice looks like (IMG 7). Pretty cute! You could just leave them like this and have adorable bubble bars. But let’s scoop them. Step 9: Round the corners a bit so that you can easily smoosh it into the ice cream scoop (IMG 8). Smoosh the dough into the scoop face-first so that the face of the bar is now the top of the bubble scoop (IMG 9). Step 10: Release the scoop onto wax paper or a cutting board. Let the scoops dry for 24-48 hours. If you add more glycerin, you’ll need to let them dry lon-ger.

IMG 7

IMG 8

IMG 9


R a inb ow Bubb l e S co ops

These vibrant and happy bath scoops are sure to brighten any bath!

Ingredients• Baking Soda - 1.5 cups (375 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1/2 cup (80 grams)• Cream of Tartar - 1/8 cup (25 grams)• Tapioca Starch - 1/8 cup (18 grams) • Kaolin Clay - 2 tablespoons (6 grams)• Liquid Surfactant - 1/8 cup (30 grams)• Liquid Glycerin - 1/4 cup (60 grams)• Avocado Oil - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams• Red, Blue, Yellow and Orange Bath Bomb Lake Colorants (Mad Micas) - 1/8 teaspoon• Grape Nehi Mica (Mad Oils) - 1/8 tea-spoon


Yield: 6-7 Scoops

Step 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container, measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix. If you’re using a butter in place of the avo-cado oil, be sure to melt it first.


Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Be sure to cover the bowl with a towel so that the SLSA doesn’t become airborne while mixing. Wear a mask. Step 4: Divide the mixture into five containers. Add color to each container and blend using your mixer (IMG 1). If you want a more concen-trated color, add more colorant.

Step 5: Use your hands to knead the dough like pie crust, folding it together until the color becomes consistent and the dough becomes smooth and soft (IMG 2). If you have a stand mixer, you can probably do this using the dough paddle. Step 6: Pinch off pieces of each color and com-bine in bowl as shown (IMG 3). Step 7: Squeeze the mixture together to com-press (IMG 4). Step 8: Scoop out a scoop-full of dough. Pat the back flat using your fingers (IMG 5). Step 9: Release onto wax paper or a cutting board (IMG 6). Let the scoops dry for 24-48 hours. If you add more glycerin, you’ll need to let them dry lon-ger.


IMG 1

IMG 3

IMG 2

IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6


S o l i d Bubb l e Bat h Co o k i es

These bath cookies are a real treat in the tub! This recipe is the same as the Bubble Scoop recipe. You can make your cookies into any shape using any type of cookie cutters.

Ingredients• Baking Soda - 1.5 cups (375 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1/2 cup (80 grams)• Cream of Tartar - 1/8 cup (25 grams)• Tapioca Starch - 1/8 cup (18 grams) • Kaolin Clay - 2 tablespoons (6 grams)• Liquid Surfactant - 1/8 cup (30 grams)• Liquid Glycerin - 1/4 cup (60 grams)• Avocado Oil - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams• Voodoo Mica (Mad Micas) – 1/8 tea-spoon

Equipment• 2 mixing bowls • Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Two size of round cookie cutters• Wax paper• Rolling pin• Face mask, gloves and hair net

Yield: 6-7 Scoops

Step 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container, measure or weigh all the wet ingredients and mix (IMG 1). If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first. Step 2: Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and immediately start to mix.

Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer (IMG 2). Be sure to cover the bowl with a towel so that the SLSA doesn’t be-come airborne while mixing. Wear a mask.

Even though the mixture looks a bit dry, if you grab some and knead it a bit, it will come to-gether like a dough. Grab some and test it (IMG 3).

Step 4: Divide the mixture into two containers. I keep slightly more white dough, since the white cookie bases will be slightly bigger than the pink frosting. Add 1/8 teaspoons of mica to the bowl with slightly less dough and blend using your mixer (IMG 4). If you want a more concentrated color, add more mica.

Step 5: Use your hands to knead the dough like pie crust, folding it together until the color becomes consistent and the dough becomes smooth and soft (IMG 5). If you have a stand mixer, you can probably do this using the dough paddle. If you feel like your dough is too stiff to work with, go ahead and add some extra glycerin and blend well.

Step 6: Sprinkle tapioca starch onto some wax paper and roll the white cookie base out, about ¼” thick. Use a large, round cookie cutter to cut out the cookie bases (IMG 6).


IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6


I made about 5 cookies with this batch. You might get more or less depending on how thick your dough is and the size of your cookie cut-ters.

Step 7: Roll the pink icing base out, about ¼” thick. Use a smaller cookie cutter to cut out your frosting.

Step 8: Spray each white cookie base with iso-propyl alcohol to wet slightly.

Step 9: Place a pink frosting on each white base. Pat down to help them stick (IMG 7). Step 10: Use a finger to smooth the edge of the pink frosting on each cookie (IMG 8 & 9). Top with sprinkles if you want. Let your cookies dry for 24-48 hours. If you add more glycerin, you’ll need to let them dry longer.

IMG 7

IMG 8

IMG 9

Un i corn Horn S o l i d Bubb l e Bat h

More unicorn horns! These solid bubble bath bars are easy to make. Make them any size that you’d like and use your favorite colors.

Ingredients• Baking Soda - 1.5 cups (375 grams)• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 1/2 cup (80 grams)• Cream of Tartar - 1/8 cup (25 grams)• Tapioca Starch - 1/8 cup (18 grams) • Kaolin Clay - 2 tablespoons (6 grams)• Liquid Surfactant - 1/8 cup (30 grams)• Liquid Glycerin - 1/4 cup (60 grams)• Avocado Oil - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Polysorbate 80 - 1 teaspoon (5 grams)• Fragrance – 8 grams • Grape Nehi Mica (Mad Micas) – 1/4 teaspoon• Voodoo Mica (Mad Micas) – ¼ tea-spoon • Blue Bath Bomb Lake Colorant (Mad Micas) – Tiny dusting

Equipment• 3 mixing bowls • Measuring cups/spoons or digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Face mask, gloves and hair net

Step 1: Step 1: Measure or weigh all the dry ingredients into your mixing bowl. In another container, measure or weigh all the wet ingre-dients and mix. If you’re using a butter in place of the avocado oil, be sure to melt it first.


Step 3: Blend the mixture using a hand mixer or a stand mixer. Be sure to cover the bowl with a towel so that the SLSA doesn’t become airborne while mixing. Wear a mask.

Test the dough by kneading a bit of it together. It should be a stiff-moldable consistency. If it’s crumbly or too dry, add a bit more glycerin.

Step 4: Divide the mixture into three containers. Add colorant to each and mix well.

Step 5: Use your hands to knead the dough like pie crust, folding it together until the color becomes consistent and the dough becomes smooth and soft (IMG 1). If you have a stand mixer, you can probably do this using the dough paddle. If you feel like your dough is too stiff to scoop, go ahead and add some extra glycerin and blend well.

Step 6: Roll the dough as shown (IMG 2) and slice each piece into four pieces (IMG 3), or as many unicorn horns as you want to end up with. I decided on four. Step 7: Grab one of each color and roll into cones as shown (IMG 4). Step 8: Twist the set of cones as shown into a rough horn shape (IMG 5).

Step 9: Smooth by pressing with your fingers. Roll on a cutting board to smooth (IMG 6). Repeat for each set of colors! I made four rath-er large horns, but you could make bigger or smaller ones. You can also dust with glitter or gold mica to decorate. Let the horns dry for 24-48 hours. If you add more glycerin, you’ll need to let them dry lon-ger.


IMG 1 IMG 2

IMG 3 IMG 4

IMG 5 IMG 6

IMG 7


Bubb l e Bat h F ro s t i n g for P i p i n g

This recipe creates a soft bubble bar that is pipeable! Because of the meringue powder, it hardens so that you can easily package. Use this to pipe on top of cupcake bath bombs or bath truffles. This recipe creates enough bub-ble bath frosting to pipe about three cupcakes, depending on how high your piping is.

Ingredients• Baking Soda – 200 grams• Fine Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) – 20 grams• Meringue Powder – 15 grams• Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 80 grams• Essential Oil or Fragrance Oil – 3-6 grams or ml • Mica, lake or dye colorant

Equipment • Mixing bowl• Digital scale• Hand mixer• Spatula• Piping bag with tip

Yield: Frosting for about 3 cupcakes

Step 1: Weigh baking soda, SLSA, meringue powder and powder colorant into a mixing bowl and blend. Weigh the cocamidopropyl betaine and fragrance into a small container.

Step 2: Add your colorant to the dry mixture and mix all the dry ingredients to combine using a hand mixer so that the colorant is dispersed well. Since this mixture contains SLSA, cover the bowl with a towel while you mix.

Note: Add about a pea-sized scoop of colorant. Mix and add more if you’d like a darker color. For the two batches pictured, I used Voodoo mica and Orange Certified Bath Bomb Lake from Mad Micas.

Step 3: While mixing, drizzle in the cocami-dopropyl betaine and fragrance mixture. If you pour it in without mixing, you might activate the SLSA.

Step 4: Once you’ve added all of the liquid sur-factant, turn the mixer to high and mix for about 5-10 seconds. You’ll notice that the mixture will go from pasty to whipped and fluffy. Once you have this whipped texture, stop mixing. You don’t want to over-mix your frosting or the mix-ture will get too hard.

Step 5: Put the bubble bath frosting into a piping bag (IMG 1) and pipe it onto your bath bomb cupcake (IMG 2)!

The texture of this mixture, while wet, is a bit like homemade marshmallows. It’s thick, squishy, and dense. Don’t expect a texture like real icing or whipped cream.

Step 6: Allow your piping to dry for at least 3 days. Be patient, because it will harden! Step 7: When using your cupcake in the bath, simply hold the frosting under running water and it will bubble up just like a solid bubble bath bar.


Tips:• Make sure your bath bombs are dry before piping on the frosting. A little of the bath bomb might activate, but not enough to ruin it. • If your frosting comes off your bath bomb cupcake, you might have to glue it back on using a cocoa butter and baking soda mixture (see donut glaze recipe). Some makers even use melt and pour soap to act as a glue. • You can experiment using different amounts of baking soda and SLSA. If you’d like more bubbles, reduce the baking soda and use more SLSA. • If you add too much liquid, you run the risk of activating the SLSA. You’ll know that you have activated the SLSA if your mixture starts expanding in your mixing bowl or piping bag. The trick is to add just enough liquid to make it pipeable without activating the SLSA. • I experimented with adding cream of tartar as a hardener, but the mixture kept activating. I did have luck adding kaolin clay, but it really isn’t needed since it hard-ens on its own. • The mixture is thick when piping, so be sure to use thick piping bags, or double bag, so that your bag doesn’t rip at the seam. Reusable bags are even better. • I use fine SLSA. Coarse SLSA is common from suppliers, so if you end up using coarse SLSA, you’ll need to use less liquid or you’ll run the risk of activating the SLSA. Start with half the liquid amount and con-tinue to add a little at a time until you get a pipeable texture.

IMG 1

IMG 2

IMG 3


Packag in gMaking bath bombs and solid bubble bath for fun and hobby is extremely satisfying. They make such wonderful gifts for friends and family.

Bath bombs and solid bubble bath will react to moisture in the air. Unless there is always zero humidity where you live, you’ll need to protect them by packaging in airtight packaging.

Shrink Wrap – Shrink wrap is the best way to package bath bombs and solid bubble bath because it keeps the moisture out and the fizz fresh. You can find tons of different shrink wrap options online to order. You’ll need a heat gun to seal shrink wrap bags and a heat gun and sealer if you go with shrink wrap film.

Plastic Wrap – You probably already have some plastic wrap in your cupboard. You can wrap tightly in plastic wrap, using a label or tape to close and make airtight.

Airtight Bags – There are several airtight bags you can purchase to package your bath treats. One of my favorite types of plastic bags are standup pouches. You can create multi-packs by using these.

If you don’t care about humidity, you can pack-age your bath bombs in muslin bags or organza bags. You can twist in tissue paper like little candies. You can package in boxes, either card-board or plastic.

Just be aware that if you don’t package in air-tight packaging you run the risk of your bath treats reacting to humidity in the air. I’ve also noticed that bath bombs just don’t stay as fresh and will lose fizzing action if not packaged in airtight packaging.


T H ANK YOU !

Thank you for purchasing Fun in the Tub: Cre-ating Bath Bombs, Solid Bubble Bath, Bubble Frosting and Bubble Scoops! I hope that it serves you as a guide and reference resource as you make bath bombs and solid bubble bath. It is important to remember that, especially with bath bombs, where you live makes a difference. You might have to slightly tweak your binder or ingredients. Read carefully through the formu-lating section so that you understand what each ingredient contributes to a recipe. Keep your batches small when first starting and don’t be afraid to experiment with different additives.

You’ll soon be making bath bombs and solid bubble bath that will fill your tub with fun!

If you need help on your DIY journey, please join our online Facebook Group, Bath Fizz and Foam!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/bathfizzand-foam/


Suppl i e r s /r es ourcesBath & Body Suppliers (US)Bescented – www.bescented.com Bramble Berry – www.brambleberry.com Bulk Apothecary – www.bulkapothecary.com Ciberia Soap Supply – www.cibariasoapsupply.com Mad Micas – www.madmicas.com Majestic Mountain Sage – www.thesage.com Mountain Rose Herbs – www.moun-tainroseherbs.comMuddy Soap Co – www.muddysoapco.com Nurture Soap Supply – www.nurturesoap.com Rustic Escentuals – www.rusticescentuals.comSan Francisco Herb Co. – www.sfherb.com Save on Citric – www.saveoncitric.com Soapers Choice – www.soaperschoice.com Soapers Supplies – www.soaperssupplies.comWholesale Supplies Plus – www.wholesalesup-pliesplus.com

Bath & Body Suppliers (Australia/New Zealand)Aussie Soap Supplies – www.aussiesoapsup-plies.com.auAustralian Wholesale Oils – www.awo.com.auAuroma – www.auroma.com.auEscentials of Australia – www.escentialsofaustra-lia.comHeirloom Body Care – www.heirloombodycare.com.auHerb Wholesalers – www.herbwholesalers.comNew Directions Australia – www.newdirections.com.auSimply Natural Soap Making Supplies – www.simplynaturalsoapmakingsupplies.com.auSouthern Skies Soap Supplies – www.south-ernskiessoapsupplies.com.au

Bath & Body Suppliers (Canada)Candora Soap Supplies – www.candorasoap.caCreations from Eden – www.creationsfromeden.comSaraphina’s Coastal Colours - www.saraphina-scoastalcolours.comFizz Fairy (Krazycolours) – www.fizzfairy.caWindy Point Soap Making Supplies – www.windypointsoap.comVoyageur Soap & Candle – www.voyageur-soapandcandle.com

Bath & Body Suppliers (UK)The Soap Kitchen – www.thesoapkitchen.co.ukSoap Supplier – www.soapsupplier.co.ukGracefruit – www.gracefruit.comSummer Naturals – www.summernaturals.comThe Soapmakers Store – www.soapmakers-store.comFresholi – www.fresholi.co.ukNew Directions UK – www.newdirectionsuk.comEazy Colors - https://www.eazycolours.co.uk/


Essential Oil SuppliersMany of the bath and body suppliers offer es-sential oils as well, but I’ve found better pricing and quality essential oils from these suppliers: Rainbow Meadow – www.rainbowmeadow.com Liberty Natural Products – www.libertynatural.com Lebermuth – www.lebermuth.com New Directions Aromatics – www.newdirec-tionsaromatics.com

Essential Oil Education and SafetyEssential Oil Safety by Robert Tisserand and Rodney YoungThe Unspoken Truth About Essential Oils by Stacey Haluka and Kayla FioravantiAtlantic Institute – www.atlanticinstitute.com/blogAromamedical – www.aromamedical.orgRobert Tisserand – www.roberttisserand.com


Fun in the Tub - Bath Fizz and Foam

Documents

Transcript of Fun in the Tub - Bath Fizz and Foam