Central Library of Rochester and Monroe County

Central Library of Rochester and Monroe County · Historic Serials Collection

•U-:

ROCHESTER, N. Y., SPECIAL NUMBER.

PUBLISHED WEEKLY, 82 A 84 LINCOLN STREET, BOSTON, MASS.

XII. No. F. BOSTON, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER .>, 1887. #2.50 PKR Y M S

S /&/


nit; mm AND MIOK KK(OKDKK.

rn 1

ey Twin Heel BurnisherWILt BVHM1S11..AS MA3IY HKKL8

TWO SINCLE TAPLEYS with TWO OPERATORS,

t l e u i e n . — W e are n « * <

:VM s o m e l i t i i e t ime v-1'1

B r T w l " J K. K . . ' iTr» .K , i n i ' w e

er it » tno>t e x c e l l e n t M

I t d » f - m o . e w o r k than t i .e .A-

11 ' th< work • i c •• "»

The STANDARD.The LEADINC.

The BEST.

X.CACHZXTB CO.,2 3 4 DEVONSHIRE ST., BOSTON. ; ,.

it-.cif. l'i n o tiiJchr npr

A!\\nys ^;»K \ e n g

^ i and sliou l a r d Hen~lms, .nn.l :i iicantithl SnVyrn,' Ku- with' tw

-. er-viirivs. Price never wines.'- i uyH'-rL. fo r ?>*).Q2 \>vr g r

for circulars '

MAMFAITIKER OF

Ladies' Misses' art M W sNE SHOES

AMI) —

SLIPPERS.SOLE MANUFACTURED

— or THF \

Adjustable Ankle Supporting Corset Shoe.

WriH- for Sumjilrv a n d l*si<os.

H OS READE STREET,

'it


October 5, 1887J THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

JIM THE Ml M Til 9IH I

Soft, E a s y a n d Pl iab le . They sell ahead of anything ever shownfor Slippers, being Nobby and Durable.

W omen's "Boys' "

Misses 6*

.75

.75.63.63.58

NET, 30 DAYS,For out-door wear these Goods are made with an Outside Sole, at a small advance in cost. Men's, $1.00;

Boys', 85c; Women's, 85c; Misses', 75c; Youths', 75c; ChiW, 65c.

1-1£*end. Your Order -A-t Once so as to Have a Supply

141 FEDERAL STREET, BOSTON, MASS.P.S.—-Do not be deceived by Goods offered at lower prices that are inferior in every way. These are the Best Made,


THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5,

FIELD. THAYER I GO178 CONGRESS ST., BOSTON,, MASS.,

-MANUFACTURERS OF-

Men'sAND

OF

ALL GRADES.

Ladies',Misses

AND

IMedway, Mass., Factory, Haverhill, Mass., Factory,

OF

ALL GRADES

This style slides onupright standards.

Our Goods are for Retail Trade only. Made on Standard

Measurements.

THE "PARAGON" FRAMEA N D

SWING BRACKETS!This style screws t

side of window

Display Window Fixtures.IN GREAT VARIETY

FINELY FINISHED.

Great Capacity!

ADJUSTABLEIn Height and in an Endless Variety of Positions.

Any Width to Suit Windows. Patent applied for. Trade Mark Registered.

IT IS ECONOMY— — FOR YOU TO

Pnrcbase ai O i l of our M o r aWITH THEM

You can MAKE A DISPLAYTHAT

Will ATTRACT the ATTENTIONOf every one passing your Windows.

The Williams Revolving: Show Window can be Beenat our New York Salesroom, 703 Broadway.

FOR FULL PARTICULARS AND PRICES, WRITE TO

The Norwich Nickel Works,»_ O. B O X J3OO1. NORWICH, CONN.


PARA

THE S U P E R F I N E SPECIALTIES.OF THE

RUBBERAre made for the CITY BBTAJL TRADE, and for the FOLLOWING REASONS SHOULD BE EXAMINED

BY ALL DEALERS BEFORE PLACING THEIR ORDERS: JLJuaxx MLJJ

FIRST. They are the most stylish Overshoes produced.SECOND. They are made on new lasts, to fit the latest styles of

leather shoes (which dealers will appreciate).THIRD. They are light, but, being pure gum, are very strong.FOURTH. The Arctic, the Ladies' Button, and all cloth goods, are

made by a new process, and though equally as strong they are lighterthan the regular specialties.

FIFTH. The linings are the latest and most fashionable shades. Alight, stylish and perfect-fitting Shoe of this description has not here-tofore been put upon the market, although people are constantly ask-ing why the manufacturers have never produced a really stylish rub-ber shoe, and as there is certainly a large demand for this article wehave spent a great deal of time and money to produce this line ofgoods.

Be Sure and Call for the SUPERFINE Specialties.CO


THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. ' [Octob^t 5, 1887

Juflson L Tnomson S Co.,MANUFACTURERS OF THE

' J . L . T V PERFECTED BUCKLE.

DOM PEDROS & LOW CUTS

ISO

Acknowledgad by Consumers to be the Most Convenient and Practical Clasp in tht» World. Ask yourManufacturer or Jobber for Goods with the " J. L. T. PERFECTED"

BUCKLE attached and insist upon it.

FACTORY AT SYRACUSE, N. Y.BOSTON OFFICE: 105 BEDFORD STREET. WILLIAM N.


October 5, 1887] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

CONGRESS. BUTTON. LACE.

TO THE RETAIL TRADE 1

THE

W. L, DOUGLAS .00 SHOE8EAMLESS,

Is now advertised in newspapers throughout the United States, whose combined weekly circulation will reach over FORTY MILLION eachweek, and covers every section of the country, from Maine to California,

We Advertise for the following Reasons:ist. Every statement made by us can be substantiated by proofs from both dealers and consumers in unsolicited testimonials"2d. We have placed on the market a first-class Calf Shoe, made seunless, and thoroughly finished, which equals those usually sold

for $6.00, and is SUPERIOR TO ANY $3.00 SHOE ADVERTISED OR MADE. We want this fact known to every man, woman and child in theWorld, and for this reason use the columns of the newspapers.

3d. We want to assist every dealer who has our Goods to increase his business, and advertising is the only way to do it.4th. We advertise at our own expense, and it costs the dealer nothing to have his name as agent advertised in his local paper.5th. We advertise only one dealer in cities and towns of less than 15,000 inhabitants, and give him exclusive sale for a certain vicinity.6th. By advertising we assist every dealer who keeps our goods to increase his sales on other lines, by drawing to his store men who

have wives, daughters and boys to be supplied with footwear. *yth. We advertise because our past experience has taught us that this is the proper way to put an article of general use before the

people, and while reaping the benefits, we at the same time help those who help us.8th. We have received many letters from dealers throughout the United States, stating how much their business has been benefited by

keeping our advertised goods.~ ~#th. We have received orders direct from Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia, which shows what enterprising dealers can do by keeping

in stock our advertised Shoes.10th. We advertise to get your trade, and trust to hear from you by the first mail after reading this. Remember, delays are dangerous,

and "the early bird gets the worm."

W. L. DOUGLAS$3 SHOE.

The only S3 SEAMLESSShoe in the world.

Finest Calf, perfect fit, anwarranted. Congress, Buttonand Lace, all styles toe. Asstylish and durable asthose costing $5 or $6W. L. DOUGLAS92.50 SHOE excelsthe $3 Shoes advtlscd by otherfirms.

^ ^ © fNamp and pru*•ttraptd os bottom of >ub BOM.]

Boys all wear the W . L. DOUGLAS 9 2 SHOE.It your dealer does not keep them, send your name onpostal to W. L. DOUGLAS, Brockton, Mass.

(DEALERS' NAMES FOLLOW.)

The above advertisement appears m over four thousand of the principal daily and weekly newspapers in the United States. If it is notin your local newspaper, and you keep or intend to keep my advertised Goods, please write me at once.

For samples, prices, and other information, address,

TUT. L . D O U G L A S , Brockton, Mass., U. S. A.


THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

CAUTION!BUTTON FASTENER TOOLS.

The Heaton Button Fastener Company hereby warns the public

in view of recent infringements of its patents, that it is advised by

Competent Counsel that all tools for setting pronged button fasteners

consisting of two jaws, one to hold the button and the other carrying

dies wrought in its face which receive the points of the fastener

prongs and deflect and bend them as the jaws are shut, are infringe-

ments of its patent No. 160,056 granted to David Heaton, February

23, 1875.

Suit has been brought against the Peninsular Novel ty Co., of

BOSTON, MASS., who are infringing this patent, and all infringers will be sub-

ject to prosecution.

This notice is given that innocent persons may not violate our rights by.

Dealing in or Using infringing tools and thereby become liable to the

consequences of Infringement. This caution does not apply to the Belle

Patent Button Fastener Co., American Button Fastener Co., Pratt Manufac

turing Co., or the Railway Speed Recorder Co.

HEATON BUTTON FASTENER CO.GEORGE W. PRENTICE, Treasurer.

Providence, R. I., December I* 1886.


October 5, 1887] XHE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

W EAre Up and At 'Em!

IN OUR

SEPTEMBER CIRCIUR!FULL OF BARGAINS!

AS A NUT OF MEAT.

SPECIAL RUBBER DRIVES,That Strike Solid. SEND FOR IT.

Wellman OsborneLYNN, • MASS.


THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER [October 5, 1887

GoodyearLock-Stich

Machine.READY AND IN THE MARKET.

The ONLY Lock-Stitch Machine that stitches on the Outer Sole while theShoe is on the Last.

lend samples to be stitched to our Factory, 398 Federal Street, Boston.

Goodyear & McKay Sewing Machine Co.,158 SUMMER ST., - - - BOSTON, MASS

Valiant Patent Button Fly.

A Button Hole without Stitching-that will not Wear Out, Tear Out, or Pull Out.Same Principle of Indestructibility applicable to a Laced Shoe dispensincr

with all Metallic Eyelets.FOK UKhORIPTIYE CIRCULARS OR SAMPLES SEJNJL> TO

GOODYEAR & McKAY SEWING MACHINE CO..153 Summer Street. Boston. Mass.


October 5, 1887.] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

THE LARGEST STOCK!

IN THIS COUNTRY I

90c $3.25!I t costs you nothing to see our Samples, as we prepay Express Charges.

Send for Samples of anything in the above Line, in Hand-nailed, StandardScrew, Machine-sewed or Hand-sewed. If not satisfactory, don't keep them

SEND FOR WHAT YOU WANT.

131 & 133 DUANE ST., NEW YORK


10 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

JAMES MEANS & CO.'S ADVERTISEMENT.OUR JAMES MEANS' £4.00 SHOE,

(Goodyear Welt,) is replacing Shoes which have been Retailed at $6.00 and $7.00

OUR JAMES MEANS1 $3.00 SHOE,Is the only Shoe of its price Manufactured in -which Durability is considered

before mere Outward Appearance.

Retailers who have not secured James Means & Co.'s Fall Pamphlet,find it money in their purses to send a Postal Card request for the same.No Retailer can afford to go without seeing it. It has been beautifully

tten up and illustrated with superb colored plates, and is by all odds the-Msomest Pamphlet which has ever been sent to the Retail Shoe Trade.

James Means & Co.,4 1 Z.XXTCOLXT S T . ,

THE

UseOf this Machine is Positively given

to Only One Party ineach Town.

WRITE FOR PARTICULARS!

A. Standard for LastB. Last.C. Plunger.D. Cam.E. Cam Pin.P. Lever.G. Toe Rest.fl. Part ofToe RestI. SpringJ. Plate

Holder.K. Plates.

W . L. HT72TTIXTCTO1T,General Manager,

111 SUMMER STREET, BOSTON, MASS

PATENTED

April 8. 1884.April 8, 1884.

Sept. 30, 1884.Dec. 9, 1884.

Dec. 9. 1884.

G. Doney, Ottawa, Sole Agent for Dominion of Canada.

Crescent Heel Plate Machine.For Attaching

ORESCENT PLATES[ To all Sizes of

RUBBER SHOES,


October 5, 1887] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 11

ii

Showing Old Style of Last-. iog with Tacks.

n mil i v ii.mi miSEAMLESS CALF, DONGOLA OR KANGAROO

In introducing our NEW SHOE to the trade, we shall try and prove that we are giv-ing something entirely new to you in a Specialty #3.00 Shoe; also more value, wear andcomfort than can be found in any shoe now on the market for the price.

First.—It is made entirely Free from Lasting Tacks and Sole Laying Nails, by our newmethod of Lasting, we being the first to make shoes successfully by this process.

Second.—A Smooth Innersole free from all tacks, pegs, nails or thread, to huTt the feetand w?ar out stockings.

Third.—They are Double Sole, not welted and filled with paper.

Fourth.—They are stitched by a LOCK SI ITCH machine, that is fully equal to thebest Hand-Sewed.

Fifth.—They are Silk Fitted and trimmed inside with calf.

Sixth.—They are made of the Best Tannery Calf, Glove Kid or Dongola Top, workedButton-Holes, Crimp or Imt. Lice Congress, in all styles of lasts, plain or cap or plainbox toe, surface stitched or channell, and will take the place of Hand-Sewed shoes ath alf the price and will wear better.

Seventh.— All these goods are stamped " N e w P r o c e s s " (copyright applied for)on the linings and bottom of each shoe. Shewing New Style ol Last-

ing without Tacks.

If you wish for a* $3.OO shoe to run under your o w n n a m e , this is the shoe you want, we will furnish them in agood Carton, with any price and your name printed on the label, at the following terms : —

\ i :T CASH 3O DAYS.This we insist on, the profit being so small, we must have large sales and quick returns.

ORDER A SAMPLE DOZEN. YOU WILL MAKE NO MISTAKE.If these goods are not just as represented they can be returned at our expense. It will take a smar t dea ler to tell them from

hand-sewed goods.HERE IS WHAT IS SAID OF THEM.

Pittsburg, July 26, 1887.Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.:—The new method of making

a shoe free from Lasting Tacks, which causes the consumer andretailer great annoyance, is a grand discovery.

The consumer often condemns the Standard Screw shoe onaccount of the screws hurting the feet, when it is the cause ofthe Lasting Tacks working up. If all manufacturers wouldmake their shoes free from tacks, it would be a blessing to thepoor unfortunates who have to wear machine made shoes.

Yours very truly, H. J. & G. M. Lang.

Junction City, Kansas, July 29, 1887.Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.,—Your new method of lasting

shoes without tacks is the best thing out, an'd gives the bestsatisfaction. Yours truly,

G. Roeser,Manufacturer and Dealer in Boots and Shoes.

Erie, Pa.Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.,—We have used shoes lasted

by the new method without tacks but a short time, but find thatour trade on such goods is continually increasing. They fitperfectly and are easy on the foot, and our patrons generallyask for them after having worn one pair.

Yours truly, Loecch & Matthews.

Durham, N. C , July 23, 1887.Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.,—In regard to the new proc«ss

of lasting shoes without tacks, will state that I have not heardany complaints as to their durability, and as for comfort andease they seem to give full satisfaction to the wearer.

Yours respectfully, D . L. Kaufman

Circleville, O., July 25, 1887.Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.,—In compliance with your re-

quest for our opinion of "Tackless Shoes/' we must say thatthe improvement is more beneficial, both to retailers and thetrade generally, than any "step forward" in the manufacture offootwear for years. As the pioneers in the movement, yoursuccess should be commensurate with your enterprise.

Yours respectfully, Hedges & Atkinson.

Hallowell, Mo., July 25, 1887.Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.,—Your goods have given per-

fect satisfaction. The new method of lasting is becomingknown to those that wear them, and my trade in them is in-creasing every week. They call for the "Tackless Shoe."

Will H. Johnson.

Lebanon, Pa., Aug. 1, 1887.

Messrs. A. M. Herrod & C^^pYour new process of lastingwithout tacks is a decided improvement on the old custom oflasting shoes, and a blessing and benefit to the wearer. It is along felt want supplied, for which you deserve credit and praise.

I am yours respectfully, J. H. Miller.

Allegheny, Pa., July 20, 1887.

Messrs A. M. Herrod & Co.,—We had been thinking ofbuilding a Ship Cable Railroad across the Isthmus, but yournew process of lasting has knocked the project in the head, etc.We can recommend your new process as superior to the oldmethod. Hoping it may knock out the lasting tacks and solelaying nails as it did our S. C. R. R. project.

Yours truly, R. Taggart & Son.

Cincinnati, July 29, 1887.

Messrs. A. M. Herrod & Co.,—In reply I have this to say:that I am well satisfied with the shoes, and I wish that all shoeswere made without tacks. It would be a great success in theshoe line: Respectfully yours,

A. Kuna.

Address all orders and at the same time mention the RECORDER to

A. M. HERROD & CO Brockton, Mass.



LIPPINCOTT, SON & CO.,MANUFACTURERS.

Infants9 and Children's Shoes a Specialty.The following is a Price-List of some of our Specialties. We claim to be Headquarters for

Infants' and Children's Shoes of the cheaper grades:

0H

>

R

Pi

0riHV)H0

StockNo.60043O440460480420

435445465475485495200201202203205204206209199207208

215210211212

213215214216217218219220221224225226227228229230231236237233234

Terms—Wet Oasli, IVo IM&coiuit!

Infants' Pebble, Beaded Top . . . . .Infants' Kid, Beaded Top . . . . . .Infants' Pebble, Trimmed Top . . . . .Infants' Kid, Trimmed Top . . . . .Infants' Pebble, Trimmed Top, WBH and Tassel TrimmedInfant's Kid, Trimmed Top, WBH and Tassel Trimmed .Infant's Pebble, Beaded Top, Wedge HeelInfant's Kid, Beaded Top, Wedge Heel . . . .Infant's Pebble, Trimmed Top, Wedge HeelInfant's Kid, Trimmed Top, Wedge Heel . . . .Infant's Pebble, Trimmed Top, Wedge Heel, WBH and Tassel TrimmedInfant's Kid, Trimmed Top, Wedge Heel, WBH and Tassel TrimmedChildren's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather Spring or HeelChildren's Kid, MS, Solid Leather Spring or Heel .Children's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather Spring or Heel, WBHChildren's Kid, MS, Solid Leather Spring or Heel, WBH .Children's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather, Cut Hole, Sole Leather Tip, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather, WBH, and Sole Leather Tip, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather, High Cut, Spring or Heel .Children's Kid, MS, Solid Leather, High Cut, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather, High Cut, Sole Leather Tip, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, MS, Solid Leather, High Cut, WBH, Spring or Heel .Children's Kid, MS, Solid Leather, High Cut, WBH, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, MS, Solid Lea., High Cut, WBH and Sole Lea. Tip, Spring or HeelChildren's Kid, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Spring or Heel .Children's Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Spring or HeelChildren's Kid, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, WPH, Spring or Heel .Children's Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, WBH, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Lea.,Cut Hole, Sole Lea. Tip, Spring or HeelChildren's Peb., Reg. Cut, MS, Solid Lea. WBH, and Sole Lea. Tip, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, High Cut, Cut Hole, MS, Solid, Spring or HeelChildren's Kid, High Cut, Cut Hole, MS, Solid, Spring or Heel .Children's Pebble, High Cut, WBH, MS, Solid, Spring or HeelChildren's Kid, High Cut, WBH, MS, Solid, Spring or HeelChildren's Pebble, High Cut, Cut Hole, MS, Solid, Sole Leather Tip, Heel or SpringChildren's Pebble, High Cut, WBH, and Sole Tip, Heel or SpringMisses' Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Spring or Heel .Misses' Kid, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Spring or HeelMisses' Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, SoLid Leather, WBH, Spring or HeelMisses' Kid, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, WBH, Spring or HeelMisses' Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Cut Hole, Sole Tip, Spring or HeelMisses' Pebble, Regular Cut, MS, Solid Leather, WBH, and Sole TipMisses' Pebble, High Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Cut Hole, Spring or Heel .Misses' Kid, High Cut, MS, Solid Leather, Cut Hole, Spring or HeelMisses' Pebble, High Cut, MS, Solid Leather, WBH, Spring or HeelMisses' Kid, High Cut' MS, Sjlid Leather, WBH, Spring or Heel .Misses' Peb., High Cut, MS, Solid Lea., Cut Hole, Sole Lea. Tip, Spring or Heel .Misses'- Peb., High Cut, MS, Solid Lea., WBH, and SoleLea. Tip, Spring or Heel .

Buttoft, 1 to 5Button, 1 to 5Button, 1 to 5Button, 1 to 5Button, 1 to 5Button, 1 to 5

Button, 3 to 6—4 to 8Button, 3 to 6—4 to 8Button. 3 to 6—4 to 7Button, 3 to 6—4 to 7Button, 3 to 6—4 to 7Button, 3 to 6—4 to 7

Button, 5 to y%Button, 5 to 7>£

Button, 5—jj4Button, 5—7^Button, 5—T}4Button, 5—T}4Button, 5—7%Button, 5—il/2Button, 5 — 7 ^Button, 5—iy2

Button, 5 — 7 ^Button, 5—7^

Button, 8—\oy2

Button, 8—ioj4Button, 9>—ioy2

Button, 8—io}4Button, 8—Button, 8—Button, 8—10^Button, 8—10%Button, 8—ioy2

Button, 8—\oy2

Button, 8—10^Button, 8 ^ - 1 0 ^

Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2Button, 11—2

Price.$3.25 per doz.

3.25 "3.50 "3.50 "4.50 "4.50 "5.00 "500 "525 "525 "600 "600 "700 "700 "7-75 "7-75 "775 "850 "800 "800 "8-75 "900 "900 "975 "900 "900 "975 "975 "975 "

1050 "1000 "1000 "1100 "11-00 "1075 "11.75 "1200 "1200 "12.7512-75 "12.751350 "1300 "1300 "1400 "1400 "1375 "14.75 "

w

XH93oeaHMROB

The above are Solid Leather, Machine-Sewed, no Sheep or Shoddy used. When ordering, use Stock Nos., and say if Spring or Heeland if Straight or Scallop Button Lap. These are the Best Prices and Terms. Buyers will not order if they cannot comply withhe above terms. When you write mention the RECORDER.

LIPPINCOTT, SON & COMPANY,240 Market Street, Philadelphia.


October 5, 1887J THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER 13

THE LEADING SHOE!

The Goodyear Machine Sewed Welted and Turned ShoesAre the nearest possible approach to hand-sewed; indeed so near do they come to hand-sewed, that it is largely sold by the trade as hand-sewed. They possess all the advantages of hand-sewed, besides being more uniform in quality, better and cheaper. By this process a shoecan be furnished equal to the best hand-sewed at a small advance on the cost of ordinary machine sewed. They are now made at pricesto meet the demands of the jobbing trade as well as the first-class retail trade in

MEWS, WOMEN'S AUTD CHILDREN'S.By the introduction of our new Circular Needle Lock Stitch Machine (see special advertisement) these goods are now made in perfect

imitation of hand sewed.Send to Goodyear & McKay S. M. Co. , 158 Summer Street, Boston, for list of Manufacturers who make these goods.

Every retailer should keep them. A Leading Retail Shoe dealer in New York city advertises these goods as follows; We sell all sorts ofreliable Shoes, from the Genuine English Waukenphast at $10, to the Best #2.50 Shoe in the Market, our American Hand-Made Shoes, at$6.50 and $j, are practically as good as the English, but an experience of several years compels us to say that taken all in all the shoes thathave given our customers best satisfaction, the shoes of which have fewest complaints, are our "Goodyear Welts"—A shoe we sell at #5, allstyles, all widths and half sizes, so as to fit any foot. There never was a shoe made that possessed as many good features and yet could besold for so little money.

POLICE! POSTAL!PEDESTRIAN!

Our Shoes are as smooth inside asif Hand-sewed; if you sample our

(At $2.75, or Leather-Lined with Bellows Tongue at $3.00),you will notice this particularly.

The triple silk-stitched uppers are TANNERY CALF throughout—tops cut from whole stock and grained, vamps seamless.

The Three Heavy Soles are thrice-fastened, being Standard andMachine Sewed, with strong wax thread sewed extension edge.

They are as SOLID, WATERPROOF, DURABLE, and COM-FORTABLE as shoes can be made.

The retailer can order them made at the factory especially for himany sizes, in lots of 12, 24 or 36 pairs of a given kind and widthSize 8 kept in stock to send as sample.

D. B. BAKER & WHITMARSH,•'This is the shoe you want. If it was not for the low price I

paid, I'd swear it was hand sewed!" Mention the RECORDER. ABINCTON, MASS



THE PENINSULAR BUTTON FASTENER.BEST, NEATEST, STRONGEST, CHEAPEST.

Price, $1.00 per Creat Cross.

ALL MACHINES SOLD

The Peninsular Foot PowerMachine.

A larger number in use than all other

makes combined. 2500 sold in 1886.

Gives perfect s .tisfaction. Twelve supply

tubes, each of which will hold 24 buttons.

One oil can and a pair of cutting nippers

furnished with each machine.

Price $20.00 each.Freight pre-paid to any part of the U. S.&KiS

Oct'r 18,1886.

Patented

The Peninsular Hand Ma-chine No. 1.

Practically self-feeding. Same tubeas for foot power. Three furnishedwith each machine. Just the thing forthe small dealer.

Price $3.00 each.

Patented * * * £ $ g f c

The Peninsular Hand

Machine No. 2.

The equal of any other make

of hand machines in the mar-

ket.

Price $1.50 each.

So many inquiries are made by parties who are dissatisfied with the Heaton and Trojan foot power machines as towhat we will allow for them in exchange for a Peninsular, that we have decided to allow $5 each until further notice.

Send for samples of work and Price List.

MACHINES

CAUTION.BUTTON FASTENERS.

The Peninsular Novelty Company hereby warns the public in view of recent infringements of its patents, that it is advised by Competent Counsel that all button fastening staples, composed

ot wire, the legs of which are provided with cutting and clinching points broader than the diameter of the wire from which the staple is made, are infringements of U. S. Patent No. 324,053, grante

to it as the assignee of John H. Vinton, August 11, 18(5.

Suit has been brought against the Haaton B u t t o n F a s t e n e r Co., of Providence, R. I., who are infringing this patent, and all infringers will be subject to prosecution.

This notice is given that innocent persons may not violate our rights by Dea l ing in or U s i n g infringing fasteners and thereby become liable to the consequences of Infringement.

N. Jtt.—In the above notice to the trade we have underlined the claim of our patent No. 3x4,053, which the Hero Fastener infringes.

We guarantee that our machines and fasteners do not infringe on the patents of any individual or company, and we stand ready to de-fend our customers against any and all suits which may be brought against them alleging any such infringement.

THE PENINSULAR NOVELTY CO.GEO. E. PARKER, Treasurer, 88 LINCOLN ST., BOSTON.

Mention the RECORDER when you write.


October 5, 1887.] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 15

•»» • -INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS." * *<-

BOSTON.

American Tool and Machine Co., Shafting, Pulleys andFactory Machinery H3

Brown, B. F. & Co., Blackings and Shoe Dressings 104Brown, L. D. & Son, Machine Twist and Sewing Silk 115Cahill, M. S., Sable Oil Shoe Dressing 95Crescent Heel Plate Mfg. Co., Heel Plate Machine 10Denham & Howland, D. & H.$3 Shoe, etc. , . . . .4th page coverDewson. Williams & Co., Puritan Water Proof Calfskins,.. 113Emerson Thos'. Sons, Men's Fine Shoes n oField, Thayer & Co., Manufacturers of Fine and Medium

Lines of Boots and ShoesFifield C. S. & Co., Common Sense Splitting Machine.... 115Goodyear Metalic Rubber Shoe Co., Rubber Boots and Shoes 72Goodyear & McKay Co., Goodyear Lock Stitch Machine. 8Goodyear & McKay, Sewing Machine Co., The Leading

Shoe 13Hale, Galloup & Co., Com. Sense Flexible Insole, etc 84Hartford Bros., Boot and Shoe Patterns and Pattern Ma-

chinery 115Haskell B. C. Shoe Store Supplies 15Hathaway, Soule & Harrington, men's Fine Shoes.... 1st coverHosmer, Codding & Co., Specialties in Shoes 26Hurd, E. P., McKay & Copeland Lasting Machines 25lrvin & Snow, Commission Boot and Shoe dealers 76Lamkin & Foster, Goodyear Glove Rubber Co. Specialties, 86Lewis, I. B. Ladies' $2.so Shoes 88Leeson, J. R., & Co., Linen Thread 109Leeson, J. R. & Co., Flax Embroidery Thread 94Lives of Illustrious Shoemakers, 101Maynz. Edward, Self Clinching Lacing Hook n oMeans, James & Co. $3.00 Shoe and $4.00 Shoe 10Mitchell Buckle Co., Mitchell Patent Buckle 109Murphy, J. P. & Co., Designers and Engravers 113Nash & dishing, Note Brokers n oNew York & New England R. R., New England Limited

Train 109O'Hara, J. R., Stocks and Bonds 83Para Rubber Co., Rubber Boots and Shoes 3Parker, Holmes, & Co., Specialties in Shoes 1Peninsular Novelty Co., Ely Automatic Button Attaching

Machine 14Photo-Electrotype Engraving Co., Photo Engraving 115Power, J. H. & Co., Shoe Stamps and Stencils 108Rait, James, Brass Window Fixtures 100Stanley M'fg Co., McKay Channelling MachinesStanley Mfg. Co., Safford's Centennial Splitting Machine, i t iSage & Co.. Jobbers in Rubber Boots and Shoes 1st page coverSbaw, C. A., Patent Attorney 88Soules' Perfect Instructions for Patterns, u sStandard Button Fastening Co., Button Sewing Machine.. 102Sterling Thread Co.,Spool Cotton i'-oTapley Machine Co., Twin Heel Burnishing Machine

2nd page coverTyler-Bradford Machine Co 84Valiant Button Fly Co., Valiant Patent Button Fly 8Wardwell Sewing Machine Co., Lock Stitch Machine 106Whittemore Bros. Gilt Edge Dressing 94Winch Bros. Wigwam Slippers. '»•Woonsocket Rnbber Co., Rubber Boots and S oes 70

BROCKTON. MASS.

Baxendale&Co.. Box Toe* 88Bart & Packard, Men'* Fine Shoes, 95Douglas, W. L., $3.00 Shoe 5Herrod, A. M. & Co., New Method of Lasting and Sole

Laying for Shoes... "Holt, C H., Knives. Irons, Shoe Machinery Cutters, e t c 108Jones S, G. Men's Fine Shoes 106Lilly, Bracket! & Co., Men's Fine Shoes 98Littleton, S. M. & Co., Men's Shoes, n oMaloon & Pierce, Crimping 108Mitchell, T. A., & Co., Specialties in Men's Goodyear Welts 97Packard & Grover, Men's $2.99 Shoe 86Snell & Atherton, Shoe Tools, Shaves, Edge Irons, &c 10SStacy, Adams & Co., Men's Fine Shoes 89

LYNN. MASS.

American Shoe Co., Ladies' and Children's Shoes 96Gordon, Hiram W., Monograms and Shoe Stamp* n oKirtland Shoe Manufacturing Co., "Jewel Shoe," mKirtland Sh«e Mfg. Co , The Victor Ladies' Shoe in

Osborne.Wellman,Ladies' Matchless Boots and Rubbers.. 7Russell & Co., Russell's Moulded Counters 105Swain J. F. & Co., Ladies' and Misses'Shoes 99Vella.J. F. & Co., Fine Slippers 115Vella.J. F.& Co., French Covered Heels 115

NEWBURYPORT, MASS.Dodge, N. D., Specialties in Stock at New York Store. . . 82-Wilder, F. L. Newburyport, Mass., Women's and Misses'

Shoe Slippers 102

NORTH ABINGTON, MASS.Crossett, Lewis A. Specialties in Men's Shoes 93

PROVIDENCE, R. I.

Fletcher M'fg Co., Boot and Shoe Laces 115Heaton Button Fastening Co., Caution Notice ,. 6Rumford Chemical Works, Horsfords Acid Phosphate.... 78

ALBANY. N. Y.Ball, Dayton, & Co., Lasts 115Wolverton, Monroe & Co., Ladies',Misses' and Children's

Lines - 96

NEW YORK. N. Y.Benedict, J. Irving & Son, Slippers 101Bixby, S. M,& Co .Blacking and Royal Polish 78Burt Edwin C. & Co.. Ladies'and Children'* Fine Shoes 82Button & Ottley, Raven Gloss Shoe Dressing.. .2d page coverCousins, J. & T., Shoemakers, Ladies' Shoes 66Denzi & Phillips, Ornamental Screens for Shoe Stores,.. 101Denzi & Phillips Glass Signs and Show Cards 95Green, Daniel & Co. Alfred Dolge's Felt Shoes 96Goodyear Rubber Co., Union India Rubber Co.'s Special-

ties 74Hanan & Son, Men's Fine Shoes 68Hiller, M. & L. Son, Shoe Trimmings and Novelties in

Materials 99Lattemann, John J., Ankle Supporting Corset Shoes,

id page coverMorrow Shoe Mfg Co., Ladies', Misse's and Children's

Fine Shoes 88Morse & Rogers, Specialties in Fine Goods at Bill Prices 3d coverPark, Bell & Co., F. E. K. $2.00 Shoe 78RLhards, A. S. & Co., Auction and Commission Shoes... 107Silver, G. & D., Ladies' $2.00 Shoes 93Spencer, E. E., Shoe Machinery 89Thompson Bros.,|Men's, Boys' and Youths Boots and Shoes 9

ROCHESTER, N. Y.Armstrong, D. & Co., Ladies' and Misses' Fine Shoes..Eastwood, A. C , Men's Fne ShoesGoodger & Naylor, Ladi«s'Fine ShoesGraves, L. S. & Son, ElevatorsHatch Patent Crimper Co., "The Hatch Rochester Count-

ers"Hough & Ford, Ladies' Fine ShoesP. Cox, Shoe M'l'g Co., Ladies', Misses' and Boys' Fine

ShoesPhelan, Jeremiah, Commission Dealers. Kid, Morocco,

and Calfskins....Reed, E. P., Ladies'Fine ShoesStandard MTg Co., Standard Heel and Toe Protectors . .

Laing and Maginnis, Blakey Patent Boot Protectors 104Lippincott Son & Co., Infants' Shoes 12Mundell, John & Co., Solar Tip Shoes ic ^Philadelphia Insole Co., Johnson's Insoles 103'Schleicher, Schumm & Co., Otto Gas Engine io3.Smith, Geo. A. Shoe Machinery i°9 ~Smith, Robert D., Findings and Shoe Store Supplies 89Sollers Shoe MTg Co.,Patent Shoe Stool and Tip Shoes.. 94

CINCINNATI. OHIO.

Laws, W. H. H. Manufacturers'Agent and Auctioneer... 3cLaws. Jas. H. & Co., Auction and Commission Boots and

Shoes, Cincinnati. 0 1 Q8^

CHICAGO, ILL. 1

Mantonya, L. B. & Co., Commission Shoes and Rubbers. i>8

MISCELLANEOUS.

American Bolt and Screw Case Co.,Dayton,O., Boot Case, i n -American Button Fastener Co., Ntw Britain, Conn.,

Button Fastening Machine 10Bagger, Louis & Co., Solicitors of Patents, Washington,

D.CBaker, D. B. & Whitmarsh, Abington, Mass., Police,

Postman and Pedestrian ShoesBlum Shoe Co., Dansville, N.Y.,Seamless Foot Warmers,Bridgeport Elastic Web Co.. Elastic Goring, Bridgeport

ConnBryant, Frank, Stoneham, Mass.,Boys' and Youth'sBuck.H.E., Canisteo, N.Y.,Women's Kid Shoes forBuffalo Last Works, Buffalo, N. Y.. Lasts..Cahill, L. B., Middleton, Conn., Bankrupt StocCombination Slipper Co., Lyons, N. Y., The M"

per.

SYRACUSE, N. Y.

Thomson, Judson L., J. L. T. Perfected Buckle.

UTICA. N. Y.

Jones & Geerer, Children's ShoesReynolds Bros, Ladies' Fine Shoes

109105

PITTSBURGH, PA.

Borland, J. H., Auction and Commission Boots and ShoesPittsburgh, Pa n o

PHILADELPHIA, PA.

Bunting, Samuel's Sons & Co., Auction Boots & Shoe* 116Champion Burnishing Machine Co.. Burnishing Machines, 92Harris T. M. & Co. Standard Tip 10S

Dick, W. H., Dansville, N. Y., Seamless Foe.Excelsior Furniture Co., Rockford, 111., Shoe SExhibition Show Case Co., Swinging Sectu

Cases, Erie Pa j>».'-Foster, R. E. & Co., Milford, Mass., Rangley .,

BootHammond & King, Rockville, Conn., The "H" BHarrisburg Boot and Shoe Mfg. Co., Harrisbur*Hartford Heel Plate Co., H .rtford, Conn , Heel Pl»

Machine •Lycoming Rubber Co. Rubber Boots auJ Shoes. WiL

port. PaMatteawan Felting Co., Matteawan, N. Y., Felt Shoe

Slippers ..»•''New York and New England Shoe and Rubber M't\

ing Agency, Detroit, Mich., Fall Catalogue, 4th jNorwich Nickel Works, Norwich Conn., Paragon Display

Frames >Parker & Johnson, Washington, D. C , Commercial

Brokers and Manufacturers' Agents ,Rice, E. R., & Co., Buffalo, N. Y., Jobbers in Rubbers..Robb, C. L., Cleveland, O., See-Saw Foot Rest _LSacks & Richmond, Newark, N. J., Star Heel Plates. . ^Salomon, R. G., Newark, N. J., Hamburg Core1"

TannerySimonds, Geo. A. & Co., Woburn, Mass., Heels, InscsJ

and Counter Stock ?jSimpson, Thos. W. Washington, D. C , Patent Solicitor,.Stocking, E. B. Washington, D . C. Patent Attorney,....S*ran, Dr. G. E., Beaver Dam, Wls. .The Swan Elastic H<Trojan Button Fastener, Troy, N. Y., Button Attaching

MachineWhittier.Wm. P., Biddeford, Me., Champion Heel Pla,!Wiley, W. H. Overgaiters, Leggins and Innerso'es, '

ford, Conn., 4Wood, Geo. F. & Co., Auction and Commission,

and Shoes

WANTS, FOR SALE, ETC.

See Page 88

WriteB.C.Haskell 119 SummerSt. P^100 page 111. Spring Price Lift

Bonn! LamVs Wool Cork Sole?atShoeSuplies . -



COXManufacturing Company,

78 Reade Street,

199 East Madison St.,

New York City

Chicago.

BOYS LONDON T< E — T i l I LD

ilf, Fox But., Dongola Top, Tip,K., Fox But., " " "K., Fox Bals., " " "

Jlf, Fox But., " " "K., Fox But., " " "

. K., Fox Bals., " 44

2ito52i to 5i2| to 5i11 to 211 to 211 to 2

We carry the above shoes in Stock, A to E, in New York and Chicago, III.

Samples Sent on JLpplicaition.



The F. Cox snoe manufacturing Company

ELECTROTYPES OF ANY OF OUR CUTS SENT CUSTOMERS ON APPLICATION.

Attention is called to the large and well assorted stocksat our New York and Chicago salesroom, and the facilitieswe have for immediately supplying the retailer's wants.All Shoes sold by us are guaranteed, and if not satisfactorycan be returned at our expense.


18 ' THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

THE P. COXSHOE • MANUFACTURING • COMPANY,

ROCHESTER, N. Y,

NEW YORK SALESROOM: Wf!f/ CHICAGO SALESROOM:

78 READE STREET. H&& 199 E. MADISON ST.

It will pay to use our goods.We carry a large stock especially for your wants.You can order your goods as you want them.Your orders will be filled at once.By ordering what you want, and receiving them at once, you can keep

your sizes full with one half less stock, and you will have no accumulationof old stock at the end of year.

We guarantee every pair sold you.

Look over our Prices and list of Shoes in stock, make out asample order, and send to either salesroom. You can return thegoods if not satisfactory.

BlBctratypBB of any of nur cute sent customers an application.

THE P. COX SHOE MF'G. CO.,Rochester,* - - -"


'October 5, 18*7.] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER, 19

f.ROCHESTER, N. Y.

OUR BOY'S AND YOUTH'S MACHINE SEWED,

Tke Most Perfect Fitting and the Best Wearing SloesA Complete Stock Constantly on Band.

23 Boy's C'lf fox, Dong, top, Butt., London toe, tip, A to E,2529

" N.K. "44 C'lf "

" N.K. «43 Youth's Clf fox454951

J.

N.K. "« Cli "- N.K."

4JLJL, OF

64 4t

" Bal.44 44

" Butt.,66 44

" Bal.44 44

ABOTE

66 66

. 6 64

44 66

64 64

66 66

44 44

44 44

KEI»T

44

44

44

44

44

44

IIV

sizes 2i

44

" 1144

64

44

8 T <

to44

4b

a

to44

44

44

O<

5*,

%

$2.502.102.502.002.151.752.151.75

And in Addition we make a full Assortment of

HAND SEWED AND MACHINE FAIR STITCH,In Waukenplmst, lew York and London Toe.

FOB SAMPLES AND F»H,IOJE


20 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.[October 5, 1887

THE P. CO2IShoe Manufacturing Co.,

ROCHESTER, . Y.

OPEBA TOE. NEW YORK TOE.

<<OUR LADIES' MACHINE SEWED.>>The continued increase of sales on these goods is the best recommenda-

tion that can be given them. We give a list of a few of the lines kept instock^at both salesrooms.

1 8 0 . French Kid Button, Grison Kid, New York, Opera and Spanish Arch Toe, A to E, Sizes 2 ^ to 7, $ 3 . 0 06 5 7 . French Kid Button, " " "I b 5 . Curacoa Kid Button, Fr. Kid Fly, "

654. " " " " " " "6 7 8 . Bright Dongola Button, "6 6 0 . St- G r a i n Goat> Tampico Stock, "

SEND FOR SAMPLES.

II U

a u2.502.502.002.002,00

ORDERS FILLED ON RECEIPT.



•UN THE p. cos:Shoe Manufacturing Company,

ROCHESTER, N. Y.

Our Ladies' Hand Turns and Hand WeltsAre Made nn New York and Opera TDB, A tn E, Sizes I tn 7; from

French Kid, Curacna Kid; Dnqgala, Straight Brain Gnat andPebble Boat and at Prices which make them Popular

SEND FOR SAMPLES AND PKICE LIST.



THE P. COX— Shoe Manufacturing Company,-

ROOHE

COMMON SENSE. SPUING EEELS.

Our Misses ' Machine Sewed.

Special attention is called to a few of our most popularstyles, which are kept in stock, and sold at prices thatshould commend them to all.*3

(>3

56361

61

65

65568

Curacoa Kid«

Pebble Goatu

li

French Kid

Pebble Grain,

Button, French Kid fly, Common Sense Heels, A to E,

Spring Heels,

" " Heels or Springs,

" Tampico stock, Common Sense Heels, '

" " Spring Heels, '

" „ Heels or Springs, '

" Grison stock, Common Sense Heels, '

" " Spring Heels, "

" W.B.H., Common Sense Heels, B to E,

sizes 11 to 2,

it

It

tl

"

It

«

11

$2.00

1.90

1.60

1.70

1.65

1.50

2.50

2.401.25

SEND FOR SAMPLES. ORDERS FILLED ON RECEIPT.



mi f. h h 1ROCHESTER, N. Y.

OUR CH1IDREHS' SPRING HEELS, P H j I E - S E W E DWe have always been at the head in this class of Shoes, and by giving us a Trial Order,

we can readily convice you we still lead.

92.

122.

592.

622.

99.

129.

599.

629.

608.

638.

Pebble Goat Button, Tampico Stock, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 8# to

Pebble Goat Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 4 to 8

Pebble Goat Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes sy2 to 10^ - i:

Pebble Goat Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 4 to 8

Curacoa Kid Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 8l/2 to 10^

Curacoa Kid Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 4 to 8

Curacoa Kid Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 8 ^ to io}4

Curacoa Kid Button, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 4 to 8

Pebble Grain Button, Sole Leather Tip, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 8# to

Pebble Grain Button. Sole Leather Tip, Spring Heels, B to E, Sizes 4 to 8

$1.251.051.151.001.40IJO1.201.001.00.90

SEND FOR SAMPLES. ORDERS FILLED ON RECEIPT



BUY THE

P. COX SHOES.

TrfE P. COX MFG. CO.'S FACTORY.

If you have not got them in stock, read over the

Price List in these colored pages, and then write us

P. COX SHOE MFG. CO.NEW

When you write mention the RECORDER.


October 5, 1887] TH£ BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

The Old Reliable

FOR

KRCTIGS, BROGANS,Dom Pedros and Plow Shoes.

Nolprings to get out of order or break in frosty weather.Made of the finest and toughest quality of metal. Ten millionpairs made and SOld without a complaint of breaking or failurein any particular.

The four kinds of buckles. which have given so much troublewere made by one party who now warns the trade against inferiorbuckles.

Fight shy of imitations. See that the letter " H " is Stampedin the lever tongue of the buckle. With the " H " buckle on yourgoods it will not be necessary to run a buckle repair shop in addi-to your other business.

We have sold large quantities of our Spur Clinch Buckle to re-pair arctics on which other makes of buckles have broken, but nowgive notice that we shall no longer furnish hospital supplies, andwill agree (as heretofore) to buy all shoes (made with our buckle)on which the buckle does not stand the test.

Our patents on lever buckles antedate all others by six years,and as other paries are making and selling an imitation which in-fringes our patent, we have commenced suits in the United StatesDistrict Court against the infringer and propose to maintain ourigbts. HAMMOND & KING, Rockville, Conn.

Edward F. Hurd,No. 10S South St., (P.O.Box 1902,) Boston, Mass.

-AGENT FOR-

Me KAY £ COPELAND LASTING MACHINE COMPANY,Of Portland, Me.

WM. S. EATON, Pres. CORDON McKAY, Treas.More than 2 0 0 of these Lasting Machines have been leased to prom-

inent boot and shoe manufacturers. These machines are adaptedto the class of work for which they are recommended, producingvery much superior and more uniform lasting than it is practical oaverage by hand lasting, effecting a very material saving in the costof lasting, and are the only Lasting Machines in successful operation.

None of the other so-called Lasting Machines are yet beyondtheir experimental stage, and cannot be procured, even if they wereoperative, economical or profitable, nor is the use of such machinespossible, without infringement of existing patents.

All kinds of Men's and Boys' boots and shoes and Women1 e heavywork (split, kip, veal, bnff and grain,) can be lasted upon the Cope-land Lasting Machine. These Machines are put our under leaseand license during the life or renewal of the patents, subject to aRoyally °f 2 centsperpair, on which there is an abatement,which, ifavailed of, will reduce the price to : Shoes % cent per pair, Legged Boots,Y^ cent per pair. Price of a lease and license of a Set of Copeland Lasting Machinery, $695, which includes 1 Lasting Machine, $500 ; 1 Pink-ing Machine, $25 ; 1 Power Pegger, #130 ; 1 Hand Tacker, #40. ForGoodyear Turn Welt, Hand Sewed, Machine Sewed, Standard[Screwedand Nailed Goods, the Power Pegger, is not required, saving #130, mak-ing the cost for these classes of work only $565. Any required number ofToe Pads will be supplied. These are extra,costing from #5 to #20 perset of three. These machines are delivered on board cars at Law-rence, Mass., and theteafter they are at lessee's risk and expense.An extra charge of a man's travelling expenses is made for settingmachine and teaching operator.

Applications for Machines will receive attention in their order.

HEAVY COUNTER RUBBERS!T& avoid using rubbers that give out where the counter joins the heel, use the

Woonsocket Thick Counter Goods.STYLE, FIT AND DURABILITY COMBINED.

102 tPEARL STREET, BUFFALO, N. Y.,JOBBERS OF

RUBBER BOOT! AND SHOES EXCLUSIVELY.Send for Samples and Prices.-Wi

Being Exclusive Dealers, we can give you


26 THE BOOT AND SROE RECORDER. r ° c t o b e r 5.

Co.ONE MORE CHANCE!

THE BEST TR^DE YET EH

East New York Goods.

220 Cases Boy's VI C'f Button, D&E, 2 1-2 to 5 1-2, $1.10, Regular Price $1.30158* " Youth's" " D & E, 11 to 2, .95, " " 1.15114 " Ladies' Grain" D & E , .95, " " 1.1510 " Misses' " " PI Toe, D, .90, " " 1.0515 " " " Fargo Tip, D, . .95, " " 1.10

We have just Bought these Goods, and at the above Prices they are leaving Headquarters like a

» "1"CLIPPER SHIP BEFORE A GALE OF WIND," 1 0 W i l l

Order sit Once IThey cannot last long, and we can fill no orders at

these prices after this lot is sold. Order only in regulardozens.

Respectfully,

HOSMER, CODDING & CO.,133 FEDERAL ST., BOSTON, MASS.


October 5, 1887J THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 27

PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAYBY THE

RECORDER PUBLISHING COMPANY,

8a and 84 Lincoln Street,

BOSTON, MASS.

SUBSCRIPTION. $3.60 PKR TEAS

T H E BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER

Is the largest Shoe and Leather Paper published in the UnitedStates. Its circulation covers every state and territoiy inthe Union, as well as Canada and other foreign countries.

Persons receivino a copy of the RECORDER who arenot subscribers, may know it is an invitation to

* become such.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 5, 1887.

THE HUMAN FOOT IN HEALTH AND DIS-EASE.

BY J. RHYS, M. R. C. S., ENG.

(Late Surgeon to the City Surgical Appli-ances Association.)

- In addition to the diseases of the joints al-ready enumerated, inflammation may takeplace in the bones independently of the joints.Every bone is surrounded (except at the ar-ticular surface) by a tough fibrous membranecalled the periosteum. It is in this mem-brane that the minute blood vessels subdi-vide for the purpose of conveying the bloodinto the interior of the bone for its nourish-ment. Periostitis or inflammation of \hzperi-osteum is a common occurence as a result ofinjury. It may also occur as a consequenceof rheumatism and especially of syphilis. Inacute inflammation the membrane becomessoft and thickened; the blood vessels increasein size and the membrane is loosened fromthe bone beneath. When the inflammationbecomes chronic—that is to say, when it haslasted a considerable time, there is a de-posit from the blood vessels of plastic ma-terial, both within the membrane and be-neath it, and the bone also becomes hyper-trophied and hardened. In some cases, thelayer of bone immediately beneath, dies, and"matter" forms, which results in an abcess.There is considerable pain, especially at night,which is best treated by hot fomentations,the application of leeches, and the adminis-tration of calomel and opium. In the chronicform, iodide of potassium is the best remedy,as it takes down the swelling and relieves thenocturnal pains.

Osteitis, or inflammation of bone, in thegreat majority of cases, occurs in children,and young people with a consumptive tenden-cy. It especially attacks the bones of thefoot, and is started by some slight injury; byexposure to cold or wet, or by the loj^stateof health that occurs after scarletina ormeasles, but it may occur in a healthy person,with no fault in the constitution, as the re-sult simply of injury. When a bone be-comes inflamed, the periosteum is implicatedand both become highly vascular. At thesame time the bone becomes enlarged and

softened, partly in consequence of the spongytexture within being filled with a kind ofserum, effused from the blood vessels and theouter or compact layer of inflamed bone be-comes separated into several layers, whichcan be seen on making a section of it. Whenthe inflammation is chronic, especially wherethere is a consumptive tendency, the bone isexpanded, softened, and reddened. This isfrequently seen at the lower end of the tibiaand forms the swollen ankles generally foundin these patients. On the other hand, whenit occurs in a healthy subject, owing to injury,the bone becomes very hard and compact,looking on section more like ivory than ordi-nary bone. In these cases the cavity whichcontains the marrow is filled up by a depositof new hard bone. Sometimes, instead ofthickening, the bone becomes lengthened,and the tibia, as the result of chronic osteitis,is in some cases from an inch and a half totwo 'nches longer than the other. There isgreat pain with this disease, which, as in thecase of periostitis is much increased at night.

The same treatment should be adopted asalready mentioned. When osteitis occurs insubjects with a consumptive taint, there isgreat danger of the bone dying, or of chronicsuppuration. The treatment of the surgeonis to make an incision freely into the bone;this relieves the pain, and prevents the conse-quences above enumerated. Chronic abscessof bone is frequently met with in the lowerend of the tibia. This is very apt to ander-mine the cartilage on the articular surface,and burst into the joint.

The symptoms of chronic abscess of boneare as follow : After an injury the patient ob-serves one spot over the affected bone to havebecome painful and swollen. The skin overit in most cases is natural in color, but some-times it is red, glazed and "pits" on pressure.The pain is of a shooting and aching char-acter, and is generally remittent, often ceas-ing for days, weeks, or even months, andthen returning with all its old severity fromthe most trivial causes. There is always adegree of tenderness over the affected part.Even in the intervals of relief from actualpain, it will be found on carefully examiningthe surface over the bone that there is alwaysone tender spot. As the abscess cannotbreak through the dense bony covering as itdoes when only covered with skin (in whichcase it points and eventually breaks through),it is necessary to operate in order to givevent to the "matter." As soon as the ab-scess is reached, and the "matter," which issometimes very offensive in its nature, ooses out,the patient obtains considerable and perma-nent relief. The opening made by the sur-geon may expose a portion of dead bonewhich has proved to be the cause of the pain.This can now be removed. When the oper-ation is completed, the cavity is filled withwet lint in order that it may heal up from thebottom, and be filled with fibrous material.If this precaution be not taken, the woundmay heal at the surface, and a cavity will stillremain which may again inflame and becomefilled with "matter."

Caries is another form of disease of thebones of the foot, which is analogous to ul-ceration in the soft structures, just as in anulcer of the leg, commonly called a "bad leg,"where the skin and the soft portions of the

tissues beneath are gradually broken downand come away in the form of pus or rriatter,so in caries of bone the organized portion isbroken down, and the earthy particles are re- ,moved and discharged with the pus. Thesech nges take place in the interior or spongyportion of the bone, and when they occur inthe lower end of the tibia, it is very danger-ous, as the disease is very likely to extend anddestroy the articular gristle, implicate theankle joint, and produce suppuration andpartial ankylosis. The causes of this dis-ease are syphilis and a consumptive taint.This disease, in the latter case, commencesin those parts that are situated the furthestfrom the periosteum and consequently fromthe blood supply; hence the frequency withwhich the short bones of the foot are attacked,as the long bones have a second source ofblood supply from the blood vessels whichbreak up into minute branches in the marrowwithin the shaft, Both ends of the tibia be-ing formed of spongy tissue, they are attackedfor the same reason. In the syphilitic casesthe caries is situated on the external surfaceof the bone, which is destroyed in a worm-eaten manner. The disease does not pene-trate deeply, but it renders the surface por-ous and rough, and sets up inflammation inthe neighboring soft tissues.

The symptoms of this disease are not verycharacteristic, as they resemb'e those ofrheumatism or abscess. Eventually an ab-scess forms, and on making an incision andletting out the "matter," the bare and roughinterior of the bone may be felt grating againsta probe, which, with slight pressure, can bemade to penetrate the substance, so soft hasit become. The cavity of the abscess grad-ually becomes smaller, but slight openings areleft in the skin which lead down into the bone.Through these openings a stinking, dark, andblood tinged "matter," mixed with granulesof earthy particles containing a large quan-tity of phosphates of lime, keeps oozing. Thefistulous canals through which the pus makesits way to the surface are very long and wind-ing in form. The "matter" makes its waybetween the muscles along the course whichoffers the least resistance to its progress, sothat the opening in the skin may be two orthree inches distant from the situation of the"carious" bone, This disease is often foundto be accompanied by cheesy or tuberculousdeposits in the internal organs, in fact in abouthalf the cases, does this happen, the lungsbeing the most common seat of these depos-its.

It was supposed that the disease of theinternal organs was due to the absorption ofthe morbid material from the "carious" bone,but it is more probable that both conditions re-sult from the vitiated state of the constitution.Certain special diseases are found togetherwith caries, viz., chronic hydrocephalus or"water on the brain" as it is commonly called,and degeneration of the liver, spleen, andkidneys. In the treatment of this diseasethe first thing which must engage the sur-geon's attention is the state of the constitu-tion. The cause of the symptoms must beremoved to begin with, by appropriate drugsin the case of syphilis, and by improving thegeneral health when the caries exists in pa-tients *ho inherit a consumptive constitution.—Boot and Shoe Trades' Jonrnal.


28 AND bHOh KECOHDfch [October 5, 1887

MANUFACTURERS OF

ALSO, MISSES, CHTLPRENS', BOYS' AN I) YOUTHS'.

For the Spring and Summer Trade of 1888, we will add a Line of Oxford Ties and Low Cut Shoes, and our New Samples will containa Variety of Styles to which we ask the Attention of all Dealers.

mHand-Sewed Turns,

Hand-Sewed Welts,

Machine-Sewed.

Flexible.

Send for Samples.

Perfect Fitting,

Well-Made,

Stylish Shoes.

Send for Trial Order.

FACTORY AND SALESROOM,

111 & 113 MILL ST., ROCHESTER, N. Y.

At our Salesroom, 133 DUANE ST., NEW YORK CITY,We have several Oni/les of our Shoes in stock, so that any size or width may be ordered from a single

pair to a case, and immediate delivery made.



ROCHESTER, N. Y.

Something about a GreatShoe Centre.

Its Early History and Growth to thePresent Time.

Men who have made it Famousas a Shoe Town.

The Way the Recorder was Received andHelped in its Great Work.

OCHESTER, N.Y., takes rank\ l "\ near the head of the column•J$o=> J as a shoe manufacturing-cen-

tre. Situated as it is in the(f north western part of New York

State, 230 miles distant fromAlbany, 430 miles from Boston,376 miles from New York City

and 600 miles from Chicago. It is within easyaccess of all the leading distributing andbuying centres of the union. In 1840 thiscity had a population of less than 30,000;today it has 125,000 residents within its citylimits, and a grand farming country surroundsit for miles and miles in all directions. Tosay that Rochester is an enterprising citywould hardly convey to the reader the lightin which the writer first saw this place andthe impression he thereby gained. But it isnot of the beauty or advantages of the citywe wish to speak, but of her shoe manufact-uring industry.

Rochester shoes have become known toshoe dealers and consumers as well, in everycity or town of the union where a dealeris located. The class of goods made hereis far different from that of any other shoecentre, being confined almost exclusively tothe finest grades. Ladies', misses' andchildren's, and boys' and youths' goods arethe class of work made here, but few men'sshoes being made in the city. Some tewmanufacturers make a ladies' shoe as low as$&i but as a rule, the great bulk of the tradeis a class that rank on the shoe dealersshelves as A No. 1. Good honest work,good value for'the money, and fair and hon-orable treatment of their curtomers, hassteadily raised the shoe manufacturers of thecity of Rochester to the top round of theladder and made her goods famous. Thereare in the city of Rochester at the presenttime, about 42 manufacturers; in nearlyevery case they are men of wealth and stand-ing, and probably in no other city in thecountry could such a solid class of men befound gathered together in one trade.

Rochester does not date "back many yearsas a shoe centre. Twenty-five years ago thebusiness had scarcely a footing there, andwhat is now shown to the world in the shapeof her mammoth factories has been built upsince that time.

Somewhere along i860 a man by the nameof Gilman opened a retail shoe store inRochester. Gilman was a great advertiser

STONE EMBANKMENT OF NEW YORK CENTRAL R. R. RUNNINGTHROUGH ROCHESTER.

and when he threw open his doors to thepublic it was done with a grand flourish oftrumpets and a hurrah boys. For those timeshe had a store that was elegantly fitted upand one which naturally attracted much at-tention. About this time A. J» Johnson wasmanufacturing on a small scale, the class ofgoods which he made being chiefly serg,which at that time were all the rage and sell-ing above all other styles, in button, congressand lace. Gilman bought some goods ofJohnson and finally commenced the sale of ashoe at one dollar per pair. These goodswere largely advertised as "Gilman's DollarGaiters," and the sale on them was immense.This was about i860. On the breaking outof the war, Gilman began to show patrioticfeelings and advertised that he would give toevery Soldier who enlisted in defense of hiscountry, an order for one pair of "Gilman'sDollar Gaiters" which would be honoredwhen presented by his wife, mother or daugh-ter. The result was a big change of handsin these shoes, but it was long whispered thatmany an order was presented to Mr. Gilman(all of which he filled) whose holder wasneither wife, mother or daughter, but "as theboys risked their life for the old flag" asGilman would say, "let the orders be hon-ored." The writer failed to learn Gilman'sfate, whether he succeeded and made money,if he is still alive, or has passed in his orderand joined the great majority. Mr. Johnson,however, who manufactured these goods, isstill an active business man in Rochester,where he has one of the largest factories inthat city and has made a fortune, so that hecan well afford to take life easy.

From i860 the business of shoe manufact-uring in Rochester steadily increased, until

VIEW OF MAIN STREET LOOKING EAST FROM ST. PAUL

we find it today one of the main stays of thebusiness portion of that city, and as thereader peruses this article through, and learn

from the sketches of the men whom we illus-trate the progress they have made in theirbusiness, it will readily show that the claimswe made in the commencement of this sub-ject are fully vouched for.

This article would not be complete did wenot give the reader an account of how itwas prepared. We therefoie take pleasurein presenting a brief sketch of our ablerepresentative in that city, Mr. C. B. Wood-ruff, one of the editors and proprietors of theRochester Sunday Herald, and who has rep-resented the RECORDER for the past two years.The sketches of Rochester shoe manufactur-ers which follow on, were prepared by Mr.Woodruff and this article arranged under hisdirection.

Mr. C. P. Woodruff .was born in Lex-ington county, New York, May 17, 1855.When not engaged during his youth helpinghis father on the farm he attended districtschool. In 1872 he won a State scholarshipby competitive examination and entered Cor-nell University. There he pursued the stud-ies of the scientific course and was graduateda Batchelor of Science in 1876. For a yearafter graduating he filled a position as assist-ant in the University library, where he hadcharge of over 40,000 volumes. In 1878 hewent to Milwaukee and filled a position onthe Evening Wisconsin. After remainingthere two years he removed to Rochester, N.

MR. HATCH ENTERTAINS THE RECORDER HAN.

Y., and filled the position of reporter on theDemocrat and Chronicle, a journal on whichhe had been employed during a college va-cation. He left that paper to start the firsttwo-cent paper ever started in Rochester, theEvening Telegram. That enterprise failed,because the man who contributed money forthe enterprise pulled out after eight weeksthrough fear of losing his money. Mr. Wood-ruff then became a member of the staff ofthe Union and Advertiser, where he remaineduntil 1885, when he became city editor ofthe Rochester Sunday Herald. In 1886 hewas promoted to the position of editor ofthat paper, and has acquired a one-third in-terest in the property he manages. He is ofa family that practices prudence and industry,and those are his watchwords. He has alarge personal acquaintance among the shoemanufacturers of Rochester, whose interestshe studies best to serve by striving to havethem properly represented in the RECORDER,

After Mr. Woodruff had gathered togetherthe photographs from which these illustra-tions were made, and had secured the pointsfor his manuscript, he wrote the businessmanager of the RECORDER and requested thathe pay Rochester a short visit. As such a


3 0 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, i887

CURTIS fa ^HEELER,T\Xanu.factii.r*ers of

Men's, Women's and Misses' Goodyear Welt, Hand Turn and McKay Sewed

BOOTS AND SHOES,

HAVING made a specialty of GOODYEAR Welted Goods for many years,being the oldest, largest and most experienced manufacturers of them in

the U. S. Our goods have achieved a national reputation and heir superiorexcellence is universally acknowledged. It is only necessary for us to say inregard to them that we keep fully up to the times, improving the workman-ship as added experience enables us to do, using only the best and thor-oughly tested stock, and adding new styles of lasts and patterns as it isnecessary to keep our goods in the front rank, both for style and quality.

While we make a specialty of GOODYEAR WELTS, we manufacture alarge line of HAND TURNS, and by no means neglect MCKAY SEWED Shoes.We have every facility for the production of first-class goods at the verylowest possible cost, and are, therefore, prepared to offer to the retail tradeunexcelled inducements.

Owing to the unprecedented demand for our goods this season ouragents will be late in visiting the trade with Spring samples, but they will besure to come, and we trust our friends will wait for them.

CURTIS & WHEELER.



pleasure had never before been offered, itwas act opted, although in the very midst ofa busy season, and on Monday, September12, the writer left the Boston and AlbanyRailroad depot in this city at 7 P. M. with athrough ticket for Rochester, where he ar-rived the next day at 11 A. M. Immediatelyupon arrival a visit was first made to our oldfriend, James L. Hatch, of the Hatch Crimp-er Co. A genuine western reception wastendered the writer, and he was escorted toMr. Hatch's handsome residence, wheredinner was provided and a tour of the townmade ; and later on, accompanied by Mr.Woodruff, the trade was visited. The follow-ing day, Wednesday, an inspection of theshoe factories and a general introduction tothe trade was in order. A more cordial re-ception could not have been extended anewspaper man. At 5.30 that afternoon, incompany with Mi. Hatch, the party was in-vited to "see the city," and the initiation wasa quiet little supper at one of Rochester'sfamous resorts. The party was reinforced bythe presence of Alderman H. G. Thayer, one

MR. JESSE W. HATCH.

of the most popular and a rising young manof the city, as well as Mr. O F. Hurlburt ofBallard & Hurlburt. That Mr. Hatch didhimself, as well as the writer, proud, wouldbe putting the case down very mildly. Thehandsome showing we make in this issue ofRochester advertisements was granted theRECORDER as freely as though it was a pleas-ure on the part of the gentlemen todo so.

The following is a sketch of the businessmen who help make Rochester one of themost enterprising cities of its size in thecountry.

JESSE W. HATCH is the pioneer manufact-urer of Rochester. Every shoe manufacturerin Rochester is glad to acknowledge businesspaternity to Jesse W. Hatch, the pleasant,busy, accomplished, alert and practical headof the Hatch Flexible Shoe Company. Mr.Hatch is not only the oldest in point of activeand actual service, of any men in the shoebusiness of Rochester, but his successfulcareer is marked by more varied and inter-esting experiences than any other. He was

PATRICK COX.

born of Puritan stock at Granville, Washing-ton County, New York, May 20, 1812, buthis hearty, well-preserved appearance showsthat his seventy-five years rest lightly uponhim. After serving an apprenticeship at thebench, Mr. Hatch landed in Rochester atnineteen years ot age with just nineteencents in his trousers pockets, but with plentyof pluck and energy in his make-up. Twoyears later he opened a retail boot and shoestore, and in 1842 he formed a partnershipwith Henry Churchill under the firm name ofJ. W. Hatch & Co. In 1855 Mr. Hatchsold his interest, Leyman Churchill havingbeen admitted, and he then formed a part-nership with David McKay which continuedthree years. His next business move was toform the firm of J. W. Hatch & Son, includ-ing Chas. B. H;xh, which has continuedsince its formation. During his working mo-ments, and also during many hours whenothers were sleeping, Mr. Hatch's mind was

EUC&SE'F. CURTIS.

continually pondering the subject of improv-ing the system of shoe manufacturing, andmaking machinery supplant the slow andtedious hand methods. The result of histhinking and experimenting was, that he wasthe first man in the United States, if not inthe world, to adapt the sewing machine tothe manufacture of shoes. With naturalmechanical genius and persistency that wipedthe word fail from his vocabulary, he kept atthe problem until it was solved, and todayhe finds comfort in the thought that it was hiswork that placed the sewing machine withinreach of all shoe manufacturers. In 1853,he, in company with Henry Churchill, in-vented and patented the celebrated revolvingdie power sole cutter, which soon came intoextensive use in the United States and por-tions of Europe. In 1871-2, he inventedand patented a machine for crimping andmoulding counters for boots and shoes at oneoperation, a device which turns out 3000counters per day, and is fast superseding theold and more expensive methods. That ma-chine, and others equally valuable are now

E. M. HOUGH.

controlled by his sons, Andrew J. and JamesL. Hatch, the latter of whom has inheritedhis father's genius for invention, and is reap-ing a just financial reward therefrom. Mr.Hatch is responsible for various other im-provements in shoe manufacturing designedto advance the methods, make it more profit-able and improve the quality of the product,but which could not be protected by patentsand which the space of this article will notpermit to be further elucidated. Among themore important of his inventions is the Hatchflexible shoe for children, which gives easeand comfort and admits of a natural flexibleaction of the growing foot. These shoes arein large demand by the trade, and are nowmade by the Hatch Flexible Shoe Company.They have three tackless lasting machines(recently invented by Mr. Hatch) in success-ful operation, upon which they last the en-tire product oi their factory.

From 1874 to 1878 Mr. Hatch was asso-ciated with Henry G. Thompson of Milford,Conn., and he busied himself inventing andexperimenting with improvements in lasting



E. P. RE & CO.,37 It 49 S » i St. Paul 'Slritl, SOCESTEB, N. I .

LATEST^TYLES.OUK

Acme, tym, Creole, New M

Goodyear Welfs, Hand Turns and McKay Sewed.

ILLINOIS DEALERSCan procure above line of goods, also Gowles Bros. & Co.'s, in any width and siz3, from singe pair

to cu>e lots by calling upon or addressing

J. P. McMANNIS, Agent,19O M l i Mtret't, Chicago, Illinois.

S E N D F O R C I R C U L A R .


October 5, 1887.] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER, 33

machines on which he was granted sever,patents. These inventions showed remarkable ingenuity in overcoming obstacles, tcsurmount which other inventors had expendccover half a million dollars and with only unsatisfactory results. Mr. Hatch made improvements that are vital to any successfulasting machine and that have resulted in thenow perfect machine made solely by theMcKay & Copeland Lasting Machine Association to which his patents have been transferred. During the past year Mr. Hatchhas been engaged still further perfecting andimproving his flexible shoe, and now producesa shoe in the manufacture of which he en-tirely dispenses of the use of tacks in lastingHe has also invented and perfected a machinefor lasting fine shoes from a child's shoe to awoman's size. This machine is not so large,complicated or expensive as the McKay &Copeland lasting machine now in operation.It can be built much cheaper, so that it canbe placed directly in the hands of the work-man who will be benefited, both by the in-crease amount of work he can do, the ease

E. P. REED.

with which he can do it, by means of whichhe can finish his work quicker and have moreleisure to himself.

His honorable business career ot over halfa century, his many social and manly quali-ties, and his adhesion to the doctrines of theChristian Church have made Mr. Hatchprominent not only among shoe men, butamong all classes where he lives and by whomhe is respected. He has been prominent ineducational and church circles where hisadvice has been followed and where his aidhas never been solicited in vain.

PATRICK COX, President of the P. CoxSHOE MFG. CO., was born in Longford, Ire-land, January 1, 1842. When eight yearsof age he came with his parents to Roches-ter, N. Y., where he attended the publicschools for several years, and obtained thefoundation of a good business education.After leaving school he commenced shoe-making as an apprentice, and worked for sev-eral years at the bench, and proved so excel-lent a workman that when only twenty yearsof age, in 1862, he was employed by L. H.

A. C. EASTWOOD.

Churchill as foreman of one of their teams,that being the year in which the team sys-tem of work was first adopted in Rochester.Two years later he removed to New Yorkand engaged in manufacturing for himself.In 1871 he removed his business to Roches-ter, locating on North Water street, a fewdoors from his present quarters. His busi-ness increased rapidly, and in 1876 he ad-mitted his brother J. D. Cox as a partner, un-the firm style of P. Cox & Bro., continuingwith increased success until 1881, when hisbrother retired and a stock company wasformed under the name of The P. Cox ShoeManufacturing Co. Owing to the .rapid in-crease in the business and a lack of spaceat the Rochester factory, in 1884 a branchfactory was established at Fairport, a subur-ban town of Rochester. This factory is oneof the most complete in the country, beingfitted up with all the imdern improvementsin shoe machinery, and has a floor surfaceof over 50,000 feet; the number of handsemployed is about 420, and at the Rochester

DUANE ARMSTRONG.

factofy 500 with a daily product from bothof 3,500 pairs. Mr. Cox was the first ofRochester manufactuiers to establish a storein New York with a line of goods of his ownmanufacture, and the success of which in-duced him to establish another at Chicago;and at both places are to be found a largeand assorted stock, from which the dealercan have his wants immediately supplied.

Mr. Cox gives his attention to and is con-versant with all parts of his business, andbases his continuous increase in business onthe motto early adopted by him, "give goodshoes and base your reputation on the qualityof the work." His adherence to these prin-ciples has placed him at the head of a com-pany which is one of the largest manufact-urers of fine shoes in the Union, the annual product amounting to a million and ahalf dollars, giving employment to nearly 900hands. Their goods are to be found in everycity and State of the Union, and their trade-mark, the name "P. Cox, Rochester, N. Y.,"is everywhere acknowledged to be a guaran-tee of excellence.

PATRICK BYRNES.

EUGENE T. CURTIS, of the firm of CURTIS& WHEELER, is 43 years of age. His expe-rience in the shoe business dates from 1868,when he became a member of the firm ofG. Gould. Son & Co. In 1871 Mr. Curtiswithdrew from that firm, he retaining themanufacturing part of the business, and theothers continuing as retailers. In that yearMr. Curtis united his interests with those ofJohn Cowles and Charles A. Brady, underthe firm name of Cowles, Curtis & Brady.This firm continued at manufacturing until1874. When Mr. Brady retired and Mr. A.H. Wheeler, who had successfully representedthe house for several years at Milwaukee, be-came a member of a new firm under thename of Cowles, Curtis & Co. In the fallof 1880 Mr. Cowles retired, and the firm thenbecame Curtis & Wheeler. Frank A. Wheeler,son of A. H. Wheeler, who has great successas a salesman, has an interest in the firm now,as have some others of those connected withthe establishment. Besides his interest inthe firm of Cuitis & Wheeler, Mr. Curtis isargeiy interested in other business enterprises



MANUFACTURERS OF

LADIES; MISSES' AND CHILDREN'S FINE SHOES,119 S 121 MILL ST., ROCHESTER, N. Y.

"PATTERN .45.With medium high vamp, and vamp seams so curved as to avoid the joint*.

FOR



JAMES L. HATCH.

the most important being the chief proprie-orship of the Union and Advertiser, the old-

est daily newspaper west of the Hudson river.This firm has been very successful both inmaking money, and in making shoes thatplease their customers. Largely is their suc-cess due to the retention of old and triedemployes. Since the organization of the firmof Cowles, Curtis & Brady in 1871, RobertMorgan has had continuous charge of thecutting department, Miss Mary Ryan hasbeen at the head of the fitting department;and Nathaniel Gillard, who, until then, wasforeman of the bottoming department, hassince filled the responsible position of super-intendent of the whole mechanical depart-ment. From the beginning men's and wom-en's fine goods have been made, and in sucha way that the firm has the confidence of thethousands with whom they have dealt. It isvery rarely that any man comes to Rochesterto buy fine shoes without giving Curtis &Wheeler a call, and it is almost as rarely thathe goes away without leaving an order. A

c. SMITH.

visitor to their factory would be struck atonce with the close attention the proprietorsgive to their business, and the care they ex-ercise in seeing that everything is well done.Curtis & Wheeler have originated a largenumber of styles of shoes that have becomepopular as soon as put upon the mar-ket, and they can be depended upon to fur-nish the latest and best ideas as to style.Frank A. Wheeler is now in Europe. Hewrites that he has visited the largest and bestfactories in Paris, but has seen none he likesso well as the Rochester factory of Curtis &Wheeler.

D. M. HOUGH, of HOUGH & FORD, com-menced to manufacture shoes in 1865, whenhe was a member of the firm of Miles,Hough & Co., of Auburn. He came toRochester to engage in a larger field in 1879,and in 1880 the present firm was founded.Mr. Ford had previously been engaged in theshoe business, and when they came to pulltogether they were not long getting into thefront row of Rochester manufacturers. Earlyin their experience they made, principally,ladies' and misses machine-sewed shoes; but,

CHARLES C. HERRICK.

later, they added hand-sewed in turns andwelts, and boys', youths1 and children's shoes.In 1885 Hough & Ford moved into the sixstory factory on Mill street they now occupy,and which has a capacity of from 1,500 to2,000 pairs a day. Theirs is one of the verybest and most thoroughly equipped buildingsin Rochester for shoe manufacturing. At theentrance are splendid private and generaloffice rooms, and at the back of the firstfloor one witnesses a lively scene among theshipping clerks. The upper floors are veryconveniently and methodically arranged forthe different departments of shoemaking, andthe whole building is excellently lighted andventilated. The equipment of machineryembraces the latest and best, and they willnot use anything that has not upon it the sealof excellence. Then, too, they are verycareful to treat their tried and thorough menso that there shall be few changes in theirhelp, an advantage greater than it may at firstappear.

Perhaps the most distinctive charcteristicof this firm is the enterprise displayed in

THOMAS BOLTON.

keeping abreast of the times and carefullystudying the tastes and desires of the public.The result is that they manufacture a line ofvery handsome shoes of the latest and mostpopular styles. So highly did their exhibit offine shoes stand at the New Orleans' World'sexhibition that they received a medal ofaward, which was of especial significance be-cause of the sharp competition. At theLouisville Southern Exposition they capturedanother medal of merit defeating severalhouses that made a specialty of turning outthe finest shoes. Hough & Ford's shoes aresold in every State and most of the territo-ries of the Union, and so great has becomethe demand in New York City and surround-ing places that it became necessary to es-tablish a branch house at No. 133 Duanestreet, where a large sto ck of fine shoes iskept constantly on hand.

Mr. Hough devotes his attention largelyto the details of manufacturing, in everybranch of which he is perfectly competent todirect. Mr. Ford looks with a sharp eye af-ter the business end of the firm. Both are

H. R, HOWARP,



Thomas Boltoxi,MANUFACTURER OF

HAND TURNED AND MCKAY SEWED.

Eminently Adapted for the Fine Retail Trade.

ESTABLISHED 1873.

lester, N". Y,



ELON H. COWLES.

energetic persistent workers |and agreeablegentlemen to do business with. Their pastseason has been prosperous, and they haveevery reason to believe the next will be like-wise. Both of them are so assiduously de-voted to business during the busy seasonsthat they rush their work and have breathingspells for enjoyment and rest. Both have re-cently made European trips, and, being sothoroughly alert for any advance steps in themanufacture of shoes, they have made somecareful observations regarding shoe manu-facturing abroad. Their deductions havealways been immensely to the credit of Amer-ican made shoes; in fact, they found thatboth for grace, ease and durability, the ladies'fine shoes produced by progressive Americanmanufacturers are almost infinitely superiorto the best products of the foreigners. Mr.Ford returned from his trip recently, and heis very eloquent in describing the pride hefelt in the products of his own factory whencompared with the best he saw in Europe.

E. P. REED, head of the firm of E. P.REED & Co, was born in Moriah, Essex Co.,

JOHN ELDEDKIN.

New York, in 18:57. He removed to BeaverDam, Wisconsin, in 1856. and from there toMilwaukee in i860. In 1862 he removedfrom Milwaukee to Chicago where he re-mained four years, and formed a large circleof business acquaintances. In 1866 he cameto Rochester and became a member of thefirm of Johnson, Jaquith & Reed, under whichstyle it continued to 1868. Then until 1871it was Jaquith & Reed, and from 1871 to 1875,E. P. Reed & Co., and from that time to1885 the House was known as Reed &Weaver. That year a dissolution occurred ;Mr. Weaver retired, and Mr. J. Farley, Jr.,was admitted. The house took the eld styleof E. P. Reed & Co. For twenty one yearsthis house has stood at the front rank of thetrade in Rochester, as manufacturers ofladies' and misses' fine shoes, made expresslyfor the retail trade. Ten years ago theyadded a medium grade to meet the require-ments of customers. They make a specialtyof Goodyear welts and hand turns, and inthese goods their facilities are unequalled andtheir trade large. Their factory 55 by 100feet, with four stories and basement, has full

CHARLES K. RICHARDS.

light on three sides, thirty-five windows toeach floor, is fitted with complete lines oflatest improved machinery and gives capacityfor 1,000 pairs a day. Mr. Reed gives hispersonal attention to the manufacture of theshoes and has designed some very handsomeand new samples for the trade.

No house in Rochester has made morerapid strides to the front than that of E. PReed & Co. In no other house can one seea better or more methodical system of man-agement, both in the mechanical and busi-ness departments. The large factory is ar-ranged with a place for everything, and, un-like what is often seen in establishments of itssize, everything is in its place. They makenearly 100 different kinds of shoes, and whentheir'agents go into a retailer's store he takesalong as a sample trunk more shoes thansome of the smaller retailers are accustomedto see at once. From the great variety themost particular customer can be suited andhe choicest trade pleased. The increase of

L. P. ROSS.

E. P. Reed & Co.'s business has been almost*phenominal, and it has extended until theirshoes are now worn in almost every hamlet ofthe United States. They employ the bestagents they can find, instruct them to sellshoes distinctly on their merits, and they findthat method brings them an abundance oforders. It is very rarely that E. P. Reed &Co. disappoint their customers. When theybook an order they determine to get it outon time and they usually do so, because theyhave the resources to accomplish what theyundertake. They carry a stock in their Chi-cago salesrooms at No. 199 and 201 EastMadison street for their Chicago and Illinoistrade.

A. C. EASTWOOD is forty years old. Hecommenced in the shoe business in 1858when he began as a retailer. He commencedmanufacturing in 1881, and has always mademen's fine hand-sewed and Goodyear weltshoes. He devotes his personal attention tothe details of the work in his factory and is

JOHN H. PHELAN.


38 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, i887

MISSKS' HIGH CIT.

THE WELL KNOWN

Only Complete Line

Boys',' Youths', Misses', Children's and Infants'

SHOESIN THB UNITED STATES

Our Infant's French Kid Button.

New York Salesroom, 132 Duane Street.



very jealous of the reputation he has madefor turning out none but first-c'ass shoes. Hecannot be induced to allow a shoe to go outof his shop if by accident any inferior stockor improper workmanship can be found aboutit. His Waukenphast and other first-classshoes, especially the Rochester toe namedafter this city, have met with a large sale fromNew York to the Pacific Slope. Mr. East-wood does not brag about his shoes, but hiscustomers do, and it is safe to say that nobetter or more satisfactory shoes are putupon the market than those made by himyear in and year out. His shoes are adaptedto fine city trade, and are called for by cus-tomers who want the best shoe at lowest mar-ket price that an honest shoe can be madefor. There is not a manufacturer of men'sfine shoes in any part of the country whocan give his customers better satisfaction thancan Mr. Eastwood. The products of thehouse consist of gentlemen's fine shoes, bothhand-sewed as well as the Goodyear welt.These are of the very best manufacture andcan be surpassed nowhere in finish, style,durability and workmanship, and may be saidto be equal in every way to the best of cus-tom work. They are made in sizes and halfsizes and of several widths, so that a perfectfit may at all times be depended on, allowing

WILLIAMS & HOYT'S FACTORY.

thus the retailer to satisfy in every way hispatrons and to retain their trade. Mr. East-wood is not content to keep making the samestyle shoes year after year, but he is con-tinually not only adopting improvementsmade by others, but studying up new andvaluable changes of his own. A good shoeis, of course, a good shoe the world over, yetthe progress made by him in the past fewyears indicates that there is still room forchanges, and he will be found to adopt themas soon as any other manufacturer. Mr.A. C. Eastwood, the sole proprietor of thisbusiness, is a native of Rochester, and is inevery way a practical man in all that apper-tains to the business. He has had an expe-rience of twenty-five years connected with itboth in the manufacturing and wholesale, aswell as in the retail department, and is thusunexceptionally competent to understandwhat is demanded by the public. Thesewants he is both able and ready to fill, andthe trade can depend that in dealing withhim they will procure goods which will notonly meet with ready sale but will give ulti-mate satisfaction to their patrons. Personally,

GOODGER & NAYLOR'S FACTORY.

Mr. Eastwood is an agreeable gentle-man, one who does not require all dayto make up his mind, and when he de-cides to do anything he executes hispurpose with promptness and firmness.

DUANE ARMSTRONG, or Duane, or ashe is familiarily known by many of hisWestern friends, "Dave" Armstrong, isone of the youngest old bachelors inthe trade. He came to Rochester fromhis father's farm in the fall of '71, thennineteen years of age. Having workedthe farm for two years, he came to theconclusion that farm life was not tohis liking, and decided to see whatthere was in a commercial life for him.He secured a position as book-keeperin the office of one of the leadingretail clothing houses, which he

held for one year. Being anxious to se-cure a larger field for operation, he made ap-plication to one of the old reliable shoe manu-

HOUGH & FORD'S NEW YORK STORE.

facturing houses of this city, and secured aposition as shipping clerk at a salary of justhalf that he could have had, had he remainedin his old position. From shipping clerk tosalesman was a short step, (it was a goodhouse). After a pleasant experience of sevenyears in this line, he purchased a half inter-est and formed the firm of Goodger & Arm-strong, taking charge of the office and plac-ing their output. Tnis combination continuedthree years,.when he purchased his partner'sinterest, since that time he has been manu-facturing alone under the style of D. Arm-strong & Co. His business, it is perfectlysafe to say, has been all he could ask for,both as to volume and honorable reputation.January 1, '86, he was compelled to look fora larger factory, as it was either throw outgood orders or- have a larger plant. Fortu-nately he was able to secure his present lo-cation, 120 Mill street, which he fitted upwith all modern improvements for the manu-facture of ladies' fine shoes. His line is nowknown as one of the leaders in the country,not only as to style and comfort, but he willnot use any stock he cannot recommend withhis own name. This policy he says is bothpleasant and profitable ; pleasant as it holdsold customers, and profitable as it brings new

C. W. CAPELLO'S WAREHOUSE.

ones. Each season he visits a portion of thelargest trade and makes a study of their wants.This, no doubt is one of the reasons his cus-tomers always find all the novelties in theline. He says it is much easier to makewhat the trade demands, and much moresatisfactory than to try to force old and un-desirable styles upon them, and we ratherthink from the looks of the factory, this policyis the winning one, for the old customersseem to have stuck by him, and enough newones come to keep the new factory full ofwork the year round.

PATRICK BYRNES, head of the thriving firmof BYRNES, DUGAN & HUDSON, is sixty yearsof age. In Edendeary, Ireland, when a mereboy he first began making shoes, and he hasbeen at it ever since. He began makingshoes in Rochester on a small scale the yearthat he arrived here, 18$ 1. The first manu fact-



HAND - SEWED, MACHINE - SEWED.

Youths' Extra High Cut.

We Carry a Full Line!Of Our Boys' and Youths'

GULF H P KID FOXED.BUTTON and BALS.

REGULAR CUT,AT OUR

Youths' High Cut.

New York Salesroom, 122 DUANE S IFOR SAMPLE PAIRS.^

for Prices of our

HIGH CUTS.They Fit and will please you.

Youths' N. Z. , Regular Cut.Boys' Calf Bals.

ROCHESTER, N. Y



uring firm with which he was connected wasthe formerly well-known house of Pancost,Sage & Co. He commenced on the benchwith them, but rose rapidly to a foremanship.In 1870 he branched out in business for him-self, and in 1881 the house of Byrnes, Dugan& Hudson was formed. They make about500 pairs per day of children's, misses', boy'sand youths* hand and machine-sewed shoes,under the personal supervision of Mr. Byrnes,who understands every part of shoemaking.He is active in superintending every depart-ment, and does the work that in many shopsis left to foremen. He travels back and forthfrom one room to another all day, is at workearly and late, and finds it agreeable to di-rect the work of the factory in such a man-ner that nothing but good shoes are produced.So careful has Byrnes, Dugan & Hudsonalways been to send out nothing but whatthey could warrant that they have justlygained a very enviable reputation with thetrade in all sections of the country. Theyare in a splendid new factory on Pleasant streetnear North St. Paul St., and have comfortablenicely furnished offices as well as a splendidlyequipped factory. Mr. Dugan is an expertaccountant, and he looks after the affairs inthe office in as satisfactory a manner as doesMr. Byrnes in the mechanical departments.Mr. Hudson attends to the sales, to whichpart of the firm's business he contributes along experience in the shoe business beforebecoming a member of the firm. He haspassed through all phases of a successfulsalesman's experience, and knows as well howto please his customers with promptness andsquare dealing as he does how to present thepoints of the good shoes he has to sell.These three partners make an exceptionallystrong combination, and, as an experiencedshoe salesman said recently, "They are get-ting there not through luck but because theydeserve to." In order to please their Easterncustomers they have opened salesrooms inNew York city at No. 122 Duane street,where they carry a heavy stock of all shoesthey manufacture, and from which orderscan be filled with great p romptness.

JAMES L. HATCH was born in Rochester,June 4, 1843, and is the son of Jesse W.Hatch, the well-known shoe manufacturer.At the age of seventeen, after graduating fromthe Rochester Collegiate Institute, he enteredthe Monroe county savings bank as book-keeper, where he remained until 1864, whenhe went into the regular army and servedtwo years on the staff of the surgeon general,with headquarters at Washington. He thenbecame head book-keeper in the Nationalbanking bureau in the United States Treas-ury, which position he resigned in 1866, andreturned to Rochester. He then became amember of the shoe firm of J. W. Hatch &Sons, with which he remained until 1873,when the Hatch Patent Crimper company wasformed. While James L. Hatch was a memberof the firmofJ.W.Hatch &Sons, his attentionwas arrested by frequent complaints aboutthe failure of the counters then in use. Toremedy this manifest evil he commenced ex-perimenting on shoe counters, and it was notvery long before he invented and patentedthe Hatch Rochester Counter that his firmcommenced to use. They soon found Jt formany-kinds of shoes surperior to the solid

P. COX SHOE MFG. CO.'s FACTORY.

leather counter, because it could be mademore uniform. Every pair being of exactlythe same thickness, and the shoes in whichthe Hatch counters were used gained sucha great reputation that inquiries commencedto pour in from manufacturers and jobberswho wanted to know all about the HatchCounter. The whole shoe trade soon learnedthat nothing in the counter line on the marketcould compare with the Hatch article for un-iformity and imperviousjness to water. Thisinquiry led to the formation of the HatchPatent Crimper company. Its first day's pro-duction was 600 pairs of counters ; today theaverage daily output is over 35,000 pairs.This phenominal increase is due to the per-sistency with which James L. Hatch, the in-ventor and patentee, has followed his deter-mination to make his counter in every waythe superior of anything of the kind in themarket. He kept working at its improve-ment in shape, until he succeeded in makingit exactly fit the heel of the last, so that thewearer of the new shoe has no breaking into do, and he has a counter that will preventhis shoe from running over at the heel. Thataccomplished he studied to get material thatwould outwear leather. This he has alsosuccessfully solved. He found that the man-ufacturers of what is commonly known asleather board were using scraps of leather andshoddy, the result being an inferior produc-tion for his purposes. So he has had substi-tuted for his use a composition of the bestmanilla fibre, which is tougher and in everyway superior to solid leather for counter pur-poses. The worthless leather board he dis-carded entirely, and he now feels safe in war-ranting his counters to outwear any pair ofshoes. Not long ago some scalawag putupon the market a counterfeit of the Hatch

counters, so great had be-come the demand for them.This led the Hatch PatentCrimper Company to adopt atrade mark, and here it is:The use of these labels is aprotection to both manufac-turers, jobbers and retailers,

and Mr. Hatch is so thoroughly satisfied thathis counter is indistructable, that he offers topay the price of a pair of shoes, or to replace

with new ones any shoes in which the coun-ter from his factory fails to outwear the shoein which it is placed. His aim from the be-ginning has been to manufacture the very bestcounter in the world, regardless of the cost ofproduction, and he has kept improving both hismethods and his material, until he has accom-plished his purpose and reaped a big success.The Hatch counters are used today in all thefirst class factories, and the demand has be-come so great as to enable the Hatch CrimperCompany to furnish them at less cost thansole leather counters, and to guarantee thatthey will give better satisfaction. They aremade by a secret process known only to thiscompany, and their equal cannot be pro-duced outside of this Rochester establish-ment.

Personally, Mr. Hatch is a very agreeablegentleman of polished manners and greatdecision of character. He possesses the in-ventive genius of his father, having inventedand patented some eight or ten valuablemachines and trade marks in connection withthis business, since he has been connectedwith the Hatch Patent Crimper Co. as itssecretary and manager. He is all businesswhen at his desk, but when the day's work isover he throws off care and retires to one ofthe most charming homes in Rochester, wherefriends are cordially received and royally en-tertained. In his make-up a psychologistwill discover persistency, coolness, strengthfoi emergencies and combativeness, all mel-lowed with a loyalty to friends, and inwroughtwith a nature brimful of affection, sympathyand kindness. He is prominent in socialand church circles, and has been for severalyears one of the vestrymen of St. Paul'sEpiscopal Church.

The Hatch Counter Co. have an Easternoffice at 291 Devonshire street, Boston, whichis in charge of Mr. C. A. Ford, who can al-ways be found there on Wednesdays andSaturdays. From this office, barrel ordersare filled to the New England trade at shortnotice.

THE KREOLA ! Who has not heard of itand its makers, SMITH & HERRICK. We arepleased to present to the readers of the RE-CORDER excellent portraits of both members



GOODGER & JATLOR,MANUFACTURERS

POSITIVELY THE BEST LADIES' HAND-MADEGDDD5 IN THE UNITED STATES.

63 and 65 South St. Paul Street, 4 2 , 4 4 , 4 6 South Water Street,

A

AND

Cliildrens'

Y

Hand and JSIachine

Sewed Flexihle

Fine Shoes.

Y

We call your especial attention the coming season to our Imperial KidStock which has the appearance of French Kid and wears much better. Wehave this stock tanned especially for us, and can recommend it. We controlthis stock entirely, and it cannot be procured from any other manufacturer.

OUR GOODSCANNOT BE EXCELLED FOR

STYLE, DURABILITY OR FIT.

JPour distinct Lasts. Seven distinct Widths on each Last*



of this enterprising firm, Messrs. Edwin C.Smith and Charles C. Herrick. While mak-ing all the standard styles in the finer gra esof ladies' and misses' hand-sewed turns andwelts, and ladies', misses' and child*en'sMcKay sewed shoes, Messrs. Smith & Her-rick devote especial attention to severalstyles possessing features of peculiar interestto the trade. Among the styles exclusivelytheir own may be mentioned the "Kreola,"already so widely and favorably known, andtheir newer style, the 'Pattern 45," illustratedin their advertisement upon another page.Both these styles have the vamp seam socurved as to avoid the joints, and thereby theusual corns and bunions ; the "Kreola" hav-ing a very low vamp, while that of the 'Pat-tern 45" is made moderately high to meetthe demands of fashion. Another style pro-duced by them is a shoe having a hand-sewedwelt with machine lock-stitched outseam.This shoe is made waterproof the same astheir already well-known waterproof hand-sewed, hand stitched welted shoe, and is soconstructed that the inseam cannot possiblyrip. Their latest product is, however, aMcKay sewed shoe made either with or with-out fair stitching, with the inside of the shoeperfectly free from tacks, nails and stitches,and as smooth as any hand-sewed shoe, re-sembling a welted shoe in all respects of ap-pearance, comfort and durability, while madeat a very moderate price. During the wholecourse of their business, Messrs. Smith* &Herrick. have made an especial study of thelines, curves and dimensions of the typicalhuman foot, as well as of the variations there-from as they appear in the different sectionsof this country, and have so adapted theform and measurements of their lasts andpatterns to the requirements of the averagefoot as shown by such study, as to produce ashoe answering in the most perfect mannerto the needs of the trade. Their aim hasbeen from the first to produce only the finerand better grades of goods at the lowestprices at which the same could be afforded.That they have fully succeeded in this re-spect is shown by the fact that although thebusiness had been established for severalyears prior to their assuming its control inJuly, 1884, its growth since that time hasbeen so rapid as to astonish the many whohave observed its pr gress, and now to renderit necessary for Messrs. Smith & Herrick inthe immediate future to procure nearly orquite doubly their present factory room, al-though it is only about two years since theyremoved to the quarters .now occupied bythem at 119 and 121 Mill street, for the ex-press purpose of securing additional roomand business facilities.

THOMAS BOLTON is one of the oldest, inpoint of experience, and best known amongthe shoe manufacturers of Rochester. Hewas born in England in 1836, and came toRochester in 1872. He made shoes beforeleaving England, in Oxfordshire, and com-menced the same business here in 1873 underthe firm name of Phelan & Bolton. Thatpartnership was dissolved in 1880, since whenMr. Bolton has been manufacturing underhis own name, and has been very successful.He makes ladies', misses', and childrens'hand welts, turns and McKay sewed shoes,and so much pains has he taken to send out

only good shoes that his business has beensteadily on the increase from year to year,until he is making something like 1,500 pairsa day. He finds that bus long training in theshoe manufacturing business is a great ad-vantage to him. He watches sharply everydepartment of his factory, is always cheerfuland likes to work. From morning until nighthe will be found circulating from one de-par ment to another, giving suggestions hereand aiding a foreman there, all of whichbrings its reward when the retailer gets hisshoes and finds them satisfactory. Mr. Bol-ton takes great pains to have his employescomfortable and contented. Not long agohe had revolving fans attached to the shaft-ing in every room where several employesare engaged, and when they were set goingthe rooms were kept cool and well ventilated.This is mentioned merely as an instance, toshow that he appreciates good work, andmakes arrangements in every possible way tosecure it. Personally, Mr. Bolton is thekind of a man one can deal with pleasantly,and have confidence that only what is justwill be required. He deci< es any pointpromptly, and when he has given his decisionthat ends it. He has very many warm per-sonal friends among the retailers, who havegiven him their constant patronage, andwho have learned to like his shoes before theyconceived a liking for him.

H. R. HOWARD was born in Rochester in1837. After getting a good education hecommenced, when seventeen years of age,to learn the shoe business with the famoushouse of Pancost, Sage & Co., than whichnone other ever enjoyed a better reputation.For many years Mr. Howard was one of theirtrusted employes, and worked" his way upgradually until he occupied positions o^H^-sponsibility and trust. His training theremade him practical in all departments ofshoe manufacturing, and well-equipped himfor managing his own factory which he startedsix yearfe ago, and now conducts on NorthWater street. He makes ladies' and misses'fine machine-sewed, hand-sewed welts andhand-sewed turn shoes. He makes a greatpoint in carefully selecting only the very beststock for use in all his shoes. He devotesthe whole of his personal time and attentionto the manufacturing department, where hecan be found at any and all hours of the daydiligently watching the details and offeringsuggestions wherever his experienced eyerees they are needed. He is also more thancareful in his selection of lasts and patterns,aiming in all he undertakes to give his cus-tomers none but satisfactory shoes. He hasa snug business, not so extensive as that ofsome more pretentious manufacturers, to besure, but it is among old customers who havefound his shoes vorthy of reliance, and whoare always ready to give him their orders yearafter year. He will have five men on theroad this fall, and the samples now beingmade for them are up to the standard inevery respect. Mr. Howard is a very pleas-ant man personally, and is rather more in-clined to be retiring in his disposition thanotherwise.

ELON H. COWLES of COWLES BROS. & Co. isforty-six years old. His f rst experience inthe shoe bu iness was as a clerk for J. W.Hatch & Son in i860. After six years ex-

perience in that capacity he became orderand shipping clerk for J. T. Stewart & Sonwhere he remained until 1871, when he com-menced traveling on the road selling shoesfor E. P. Reed & Co. He continued withRetd & Co. until 1876 and became a verysuccessful salesman. In 1877 the firm of E.W Cowles & C. H. Harris was formed forthe manufacture of infants' turn shoes. In1879 Mr. Harris withdrew and Elon H.Cowles, E. Wanzer Cowles and Thomas Ash-ton then formed the firm of Cowles Bros. &Co. They have enlarged the scope of theirfactory and now make misses' and childrens'machine sewed and childrens' turned shoes.Their business has increased steadily, andthey have recently increased their facilitiesuntil their capacity is now 600 pairs per day.The goods of Cowles Bros. & Co. stand highwherever they are known, and that means toa large proportion of the trade. By con-stantly adherering to their motto of using goodmaterial and keeping a close and constant watchon the manufacturing they have worked up avery enviable reputation. While talking withMr. ElonH. Cowles about the shoe business hetold the writer that business is rushing, andthat this firm, after having increased theirworking space this year had already com-menced to reckon on providing some meansof still further increasing their facilities foranother year. They aim to keep trade whenthey get it, and they do it by the best-knownbusiness methods.

JOHN ELDERKIN, of the firm of ELDERKINTAYLOR & Co., is 34 years old. He com-menced as an apprentice twenty years agowith his father, who was both a manufacturerand a retailer. After serving his apprentice-ship and gaining a thorough knowledge of alldepartments of shoe mannfacturing, he commenced to manufacture for himself, and, inJanuary, 1884, turned his whole attention tothe business of manufacturing, his associatethen being William Taylor, the firm namebeing Elderkin & Taylor. The present firmconsisting of Messrs. Elderkin, Taylor and CarlJ. S. Mansing was organized in December,1886. They make ladies' and misses' finehand welt, hand turns and McKay sewedshoes, their specialty being Louis Quinzestyle. They have a capacity of 300 pairsa day, and the increase in their business forthe past yea'- indicates that they will soonhave to increase their facilities. They arejust now having a great run on their RheaShoe, upon which a patent was granted JohnElderkin, Sept. 13, 1887, and which is at-tracting as much attention in the shoe trade,as the beautiful actress after whom it wasnamed is in the dramatic world. Mr. Tayloris a quiet man, who like most quiet men isthoughtful and knows his business thoroughly.He has a good eye for a handsome shoe, andis an excellent judge of material and workman-ship. Mr. Mansing turns off a large amountof work because he goes at it methodicallyand with great determination. He has ex-cellent taste and much originality in design-ing schemes for advertising. He has hadmade some very unique match-safes in theshape of a shoe, upon which the firm's nameis stamped, and which arc pleasant littlesouven rs for distribution among the firm'scustoirers. Mr. Mansing was formerly inthe lithograph business, and he has just made


44 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER

JobbersDon't fail to Read all ol our four pages in this Issue.

WARRANTED TO OUTW AR ANY SHOE MADE.rill-.

KKA'1 vOLATER,FOR MEN'S BOY B AND YOUTH'S SHOES.

T h e y . . n - n o t o n l y \ ' u u v / v w / b u t f i t /'<<>.•/, b . i i n . i t h e . l i . c r ^ i ; ; ^ c . - n u L e i u c r i n . u V i . i i e r , m . u r e n t i e r i t b o l t a n d > p u i i g y a s i n

ordinary leather counter-;.

r i

FOR FINEST KID AND COAT SHOES.T h i s C o u n t e r i * o v i y s m t t i i - : . i<>r ,/ / / ; ' ' / / , t i n , - >/';o<\ a n d i s h i . n i c s o i l a i f l i • •; i a i » I o , M I a s t i . e i . , ^ \ i i . i n o t r i i ' . - t i u -

H A T C H • i s< >< 111 : ^ i i : i t - < < >i L v n :F o i h e a v y g r a d e o f w - r K . i o r C a l l C r a m . C o a t . e ' l e . \ \ i , i i M i » u r I I K - ! i e a \ i i > t . ^ i u t - n u j i l e a n d j . i v e i . e i u - r . . . i ^ f a c i i o i i i n H i i s

o | w o r k , t h a n t h e h e - t M - l t t U i ' M H I ! I , : i v i . o u n t e r . ;

It

PAT]]>TKl) LAUi: I

T o l , c | . i . - > . c . l u | . . M , c - M - i ; | . . - i i r . . l . I K H - > . m | . , . y . U , v , . l | , l > - . i , c - v . , u r , I , M . , > , : , p l ! ; , - v » , l l i , , , ^ - . » , - . , i - . , ™ , l , , . i u i v v i . ri n t h i s w . i v v m i a r e s u r e t o u r t t h e _ ; e i i ; i < i i < H . i u h (, o u n i . T .

Boston Office 29I Devonshire Street, Wednesdays anu Satuiuays. haverhill Oiiice 28 Washington Street,Rochester Office and Manufactory I2i TO I3I River front.

CHAS. A. FORD, Agent tor New England States.< > i r n e w p i i i - n t c I ! ! ' r - i s n \ - e t o a l l m a t r i t i r t t ! r r r > U M H - o u r i M U i i t i - r ^

HATCH PATENT CRIMPER C• * " " • "'"• ' ' i l s ™ '"• •- ' " UutllKSIEK. I,


October s, 1887"! THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 45

a splendid check for the firm's use that re-flects his good taste. He is full of enterpriseand push, and has collected a corps of livesalesmen, whom he has inspired with hisbusiness methods and for whom he sets agood example of industry. The house ofElderkin, Taylor & Co. has made rapid strideswithin the past year, and it is destined to yetmake some of the other houses look to theirlaurels.

CHARLES R. RICHARDS was born in Roch-ester in 1843, an (i commenced his experiencein the shoe business as inspector for Jaquith& Reed eighteen years ago. He remainedwith that firm until it dissolved, and then as-sociated himself in shoe manufacturing busi-ness with E. A. Jaquith. After two yearsMr. Richards sold his interest to Mr. Jaquithand commenced to manufacture web slippers,the firm name being Richards & Dickinson.He has successfully pursued that businesssince 1877, adding now and then to his lineof goods until today he is the sole proprietorof the largest and oldest web slipper factoryin the United States, it having a capacity of3,000 pairs a day. He makes web slippersand cork soles for the wholesale trade; alsoGerman embroidered cloth slippers that arebecoming popular by reason of their comfortand genteel appearance. Mr. Richards isalso a member of the shoe manufacturing firmof Wright & Richards, whose factory is atRockland, Mass., and who make 400 pairs aday of men's fine calf hand and machine-sewed shoes that are sold to retailers in allparts of the United States. Mr. Richards isalso one of the oldest and most experiencedamong the successful commercial travelers ofRochester. He made his first trip in 1861,and, after a service in the war of three years,he again grabbed his sample case and re-sumed selling shoes for Jaquith & Reed. H ehas not yet given up traveling, and makes twotrips a year, in Kentucky and Tennessee forthe firm of Wright & Richards and in the in-terests of his own web slipper factory.

LEWIS P. Ross came to Rochester in i860,and commenced the business of jobbing inboots and shoes in 1865. He handles everykind of goods from a child's cack to men'sstoga boots, and the aggregate of his businessannually is set down at a million dollars. Heis also a member of the manufacturing firmof Ross, LEWIS & PIFER, who make ladies',misses' and children's fine shoes, and havein their South Paul street factory a capacityof about 2000 pairs a week. Mr. Ross hasbeen very successful in building up his ex-tensive jobbing trade, and his establishmentnow occupies almost the entire portion of anew five-story brick block on North St. Paulstreet. He has earned the confidence of hiscustomers by dealing with them squarely,promptly, and in such a way as to retaintheir patronage. As the only jobber inRochester he handles boots and shoes fromthe very best factories outside the city, andwhen he places goods in his extensive stockit is after an examination that convinces himof their worth and justifies him in recom-mending them to his customers. Mr. Rossis prominent in business and social circles,his name frequently being among those in-terested in public movements of importanceand interest to the community. He has ac-cumulated a comfortable bank account, and

his residence is among the handsomest ofthat portion of West Avenue distinctivelyknown as a residence section. He is veryregular at his business desk, and has theexecutive capacity to turn off work at a veryrapid rate, and he enjoys it as well as somemen enjoy their choice of recreations.

Probably no gentleman is better known inthe city of Rochester and vicinity both amongthe residents and business men than JAMESH. PHELAN. Mr. Phelan. is 44 years of ageand has always resided in Rochester. Hehas been connected with the shoe businessall his life. At twelve years of age he en-tered the retail store of Geo. Gould, as run-ner boy, where by strict attention to business,he rapidly arose to be one of the head clerks.When twenty-four years old he started in theretail shoe business with C. G. Miller, underthe name of Phelan & Miller. This firm dis-solved three years after, and Mr. Phelancontinued alone at the same stand. Tenyears later Mr. Phelan began the manufactureof men's hand and machine-sewed shoes at190 State street. This department was anexperiment wifli Mr. Phelan, for at that timethere were no men's shoes manufactured inRochester, consequently it was necessary toestablish a footing and a reputation. Mr.Phelan met with such great success in themanufacture of men's shoes, that he foundit impossible to give proper attention to boththe retail store and the manufacturing, so hedecided to sell out his retail store and devotehis entire time to the manufacturing. Hisbusiness finally outgrew his factory on Statestreet, and three years ago he moved to hispresent location on Mill street, where he oc-cupies four floors and a basement. Sixmonths ago Mr. Phelan formed a partnershipwith William C. Yorkey. The new firm con-tinues business in Mr. Phelan's old stand No.117 and 119 Mill street. They immediatelyenlarged the factory and added a full andcomplete line of ladies' hand-turned andMcKay-sewed shoes. Mr. Yorkey is a youngman,twenty-nine years of age, and has workedin a shoe factory since leaving school.At the age of fifteen he graduated from theRochester Free Academy, and at once en-tered the employ of Phelan & Bolton, whichfirm was composed of Jeremiah Phelan (abrother of James H. Phelan) and Thos. Bol-ton. Phelan & Bolton had just started inmanufacturing shoes, and Mr. Yorkey startedin to grow up with the business. Mr. Yor-key's duties upon entering this firm's employwere sock lining shoes and making himselfgenerally useful, at a salary of $3 per week.By faithful attention to his work he soon be-came one of their most trusted employes,and was rapidly advanced to different re-sponsible positions. Upon the dissolution ofPhelan & Bolton, Mr. Yorkey connected him-self with Jeremiah Phelan, who immediatelystarted the manufacturing of ladies' hand-turned shoes, with Mr. Yorkey as book-keeperand manager, and in a few years JeremiahPhelan's hand-turned shoes were known overthe whole United States. Finally after a ser-vice of fourteen years with Jeremiah Phelan(and upon Mr. Phelan's retiring from busi-ness) Mr. Yorkey formed a partnership withJames H. Phelan. Phelan & Yorkey manu-facture a full and complete line of men'shand and machines-sewed, also ladies' hand-

sewed turns and McKay-sewed shoes. Theirgoods are rapidly acquiring great popularity,and as both partners have a large and valua-ble experience they are looked upon by theolder firms in business to soon become oneof the leading shoe manufacturing firms inRochester, N. Y.

THE FIRM OF WILLIAMS & HOYT stands inthe very front rank of the shoe manufactur-ers of Rochester. It was organized in 1875,and is comprised of William Williams andCharles E. Hoyt; previous to that year, Mr.Williams had been engaged at manufacturingshoes in New York city. They make themost complete line of boys', youths', misses'children's and infant's shoes of any firm inthe country. They give especial attention tofirst-class shoes for boys and youths, andspring heel shoes for ladies, misses and chil-dren. They make what is called the RockyMountain shoe for children, which has noequal for comfort and durability. The firmis very progressive, always studying out newimprovements, and using xhem in their fac-tory for the benefit of their customers. Wil-liams & Hoyt have extended their businessuntil their shoes are largely sold in everyState in the Union, from Boston to Portland,Ore., and their business is increasing year byyear. They figure to make from 1,200 to1,500 pair of shoes per day, and it is wellknown that they are busy the greater part ofevery year. The routes of their agents havebeen somewhat changed this season; Mr.Herr, who has heretofore only gone as far asMontana, will take in addition the territorytormerly looked after by a resident agentin San Francisco, comprising California, Ne-vada, Oregon and Washington Territory;Mr. Meade will have Illinois, Iowa, Missouriand Kansas ; Mr. Hammond will look afterhis usual territory through Indiana and theSouthern States. The States of Minnesota, Wis-consin, Michigan and Ohio willl be in thehands of a competent salesman; Mr. Frankelof Baltimore will attend to the trade in Mary-land, Virginia, West Virginia and Delaware.The territory comprising New York, Penn-sylvania, New Jersey and the Eastern States willbe divided between their Western salesmen,who make their headquarters at the NewYork salesroom of the firm, 142 Duane street.There could be no finer factory than that ofWilliams &-Hoyt, an illustration of which ac-companies this article, and it is justly styledthe "Model Shoe Factory of the UnitedStates." The building was erected for themby the celebrated contractor of fire-proofbuildings, Mr. W. H. Gorsline, and cost inthe neighborhood of a hundred thousand.dol-lars ; it is six stories high with an eighteenfoot basement cut out of the solid rock, andis absolutely fire-proof, with brick archedfloors and iron joists; it is located on Centrestreet, on the brink of the famous GeneseeFalls, where it is impossible to shut out lightand pure air; there is an iron stair-case run-ning from the top to bottom, and it is conve-niently arranged for shoe manufacturing; itis filled with all the latest improved machin-ery, the systematic arrangement of which itis difficult to criticise. Williams & Hoyt areproud to make good shoes and have themappreciated ; they will not allow any inferiorarticle to leave their factory; the result offollowing that plan is that they have a splen-



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did business among the very best class of retailers.

THERE IS NO FIRM in Rochester that enjoysa more enviable reputation than that ofGOODGER & NAYLOR. Always keeping inmind the motto "Plenty of room at the top,"travel wherever you will, in the largest citiesof this country, you will find the productionsof this noted house. Both Mr. Goodger andMr. Naylor have devoted their entire business career to the manufacturing of the finesgrades of ladies shoes, and the perfectionthey have attained has been brought abouby a lite study. One remarkable fact abouthis house is that ever since they commencedbusiness their factory has run full time all theyear round, and each year they have beencompelled to increase their capacity, untilnow they have as complete a factory as is inexistence, giving employment to the mostskilled artisans in the various departments tothe number of 180. The shoes produced bythis firm are the finest grades of hand-madegoods.

C. W. CAPELLO is a representative of theleather iaterest. A sketch of the shoe in-dustry of Rochester would be incompletewithout a mention of the house that furnishesmany of the manufacturers with their leatherIn the rush of business, and with occasionalunavoidable delays in freight shipments themanufacturers often find it very convenientto purchase leather and finding right at theirvery doors where they can often buy ascheaply as from the leather producers direct,and thus save delays in their own shops andannoyances. Several leather houses haveagents here, and the competition betweenthem has made their business lively. Theone who seems to be taking the lead is Mr.C. W. Capello, whose place of business atNo.s 19 and 21 Mumford street, is illustrated.Mr. Capello has recently started in the leatherbusiness in Rochester. He has a large andcomplete establishment in the best locationin the city for this line. He carries full linesof leather of all grades required by shoe man-ufacturers, and also carries a full line of cot-ton and linen thread for shoe manufacturersuse. He has had a long experience on theroad, and in his new departure he is rapidlybuilding up an extensive and profitable busi-ness. He is the agent for some of the bestknown manufactures of leather in the coun-try, and parties favoring him with their orderscan depend upon reciving prompt attentionand the best goods at lowest manufacturersprices.

THE AMERICAN SHOE AND LEATHER TRADEASSOCIATION have their Rochester orifice at 19and 21 Munford street. H. Van Court &Co. are managers of this Association, whichwas organized and commenced business in1876, and is the oldest exclusively boot, shoeand leather agency in the field. It has acorps of 15,000 correspondents, and num-bers amongst its members nearly all theleading boot and shoe manufacturers,tanners and leather manufacturers ofthe United States, and issues semi-annually abook of ratings containing the names, localaddresses, and credit and capital standing ofover 150,000 dealers. It owns its own print-ing establishment, in which ten tons, or 20,-000 pounds of type are used. It is th e first

and only shoe and leather agency whichtook enough interest in and recognized theimportance of the shoe manufacturing inter-ests of Rochester and Western New York toestablish a branch office in Rochester, and,in consequence, the shoe manufacturers herehave given it hearty and liberal support. Mr.W. S. Van Court, the manager of the Roch-ester office, has had a long experience in thebusiness, and is an enterprising and capableman, wide-awake to the interest of their cus-tomers. He is very popular with the trade,and is building up the business of his officeto large proportions. A trial will convinceany shoe manufacturer or leather dealer thatthe service rendered by this company is moreprompt and better than any agency in thecountry.

NOTES.

The above-mentioned do not compriseby any means the complete list of Rochestermanufacturers. Among the other flourishinghouses may be mentioned that of A. J. John-son & Co., one of the oldest in Rochester.Mr. Johnson commenced with Pancost, Sage& Co., and since he began for himself he hasbuilt up a large and profitable business, reach-ing into all the States and Territories. Theymake women's fine shoes of Dongola andFrench kid, and average about 1,000 pairsa day.

Then there is the very successful house ofWright & Peters. Mr. Wright is one of theoldest of the Rochester manufacturers andone of the most thorough. He is bound upin his business, and strict adherence to thedetermination to send out nothing but first-class shoes has resulted in his gaining a veryenviable reputation. Mr. Peters is a sharp,hard working commercial manager, and helooks after the correspondence and the ac-counts with an eagle eye.

The very youngest firm is that of Vegiard,Langslow & Curry. Mr. Vegiard gained apractical knowledge of shoe manufacturingwith a leading house here, and he obtainedan excellent knowledge of what the retailerswant by traveling several years for ThomasBolton. Mr. Langslow is a practical manalso, while Mr. Curry formerly conducted aretail store. They have just got to runningnicely in their new factory, just off South St.Paul street. They make a line of ladies*fine shoes, comprising modern styles, andaim to combine excellence and elegance intheir shoes.

'""Weaver, Thomas & Kirk, whose factory ison St. Paul street and who make ladies' fineshoes, are coming to the front fast. Mr.Weaver was for several years a member ofthe firm of Reed & Weaver, and Mr. Thomaswas also associated with them. Mr. Kirk isa practical shoe manufacturer. They havebooked more orders since commencing oper-ations about a year ago than they expected,and are very well satisfied with the outlookfor the future.

"^Reynolds & Eddy occupy one of the mostexpensive and most complete factories inRochester. It is a big, well-built, brick blockon State street, that cost them $80,000, and

equipped in a most complete and thoroughmanner. They make ladies' fine and medium

shoes. Mr. Reynolds was formerly of thefirm of Brooks & Reynolds, and Col. S. S.Eddy, his partner, was formerly engaged inthe morocco business.

Dake & Barrett do a good business, mak-ing ladies' fine shoes. They do not aim tomake a great quantity of shoes, but theirwork has always been such as to please theircustomers, and their business shows an in-crease year by year.

James Hason makes men's boots and shoesof a superior quality. He is a practical manhimself, and employs the best operatives hecan find because he will not tolerate anythingbut the best workmanship. Among his sam-ples may be seen some of the very best pro-ducts of shoe manufacturing to be found inRochester.

Almost everybody in the shoe trade knowsor has known of John Kelley. He now oc-cupies a large factory at the corner of Milland Andrews streets, and is carrying on anextensive business. His shoes have an excellent reputation, and had it not been forseveral unfortunate strikes, by his operatives,he would, today, have been doing a stilllarger business.xBehn & Young are in the new Pancost

block on Allen street, where they have acompact factory, and are turning out somevery acceptable shoes. They are both hard-working, careful men who give their whole at-tention to their business, and who have hada long experience in making shoes.

Brooks & McEntee are also in the Pan-cost block, Mr. Brooks was formerly head ofthe firm of Brooks & Reynolds, where he wassuccessful in making money, and in whichcapacity he gained a thorough knowledge ofthe business. His partner knows about allthat is worth knowing about the practicalpart of shoemaking, and is both industriousand enterprising.

In securing the points to write up theRochester matter for this edition of the RE-CORDER our representative called upon Mr.John Swan, Secretary of the P. Cox ShoeMTg Company, and in the course of conver-sation with him suggested that his name bementioned in connection with the P. Cox Co.but Mr. Swan very politely but decidedly re'fused to have his name used in that connection

A good story is told of one of Rochester'soldest and most respected shoe manufac-turers. It seems that some years ago, althoughan ardent Republican he had repeatedly re-fused to have his name used in connectionwith any public office, but at last by the per-suasion of friends he was induced to allowhis name to be used as a candidate for someoffice of importance in one of the city orcounty elections. Heretofore he had livedthe life of a man who had never had a wordbreathed against his good name. But onecan imagine his surprise the day after thenomination to find the opposition papersof the city holding him up in the most con-temptible manner before his fellow citizens asa man wholly unworthy to accept any publictrust. These papers continued this duringthe entire campaign, and as the gentlemanwas defeated in the election he ever there-after refused to have his name used in anyway or connection in any matter of a publicnature.


48 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [Octobers, 1887

WITH THE SHOE MANUFACTURERS.1 !i \ 11 i- MI \ : —

\ \ . k i m l l v : i - k \ < " i 1 . . l o o k t h r o u g h t h i s i s ^ n e , , f t ! .; U < r - : i - ; ; m l s e e w h a t w e h a v e t o < a \ ! • > t h e

JOBBKRS AMP KETAILERS,I 0 1 w h a t i s o f , • ' / / , • • , • » • / / , ' ihnn ;•/><</ l>r /<< \;->f I* a w e l l - k n o w n f a - ( t " 1 ><• u n i o n t v o f c o n m l a i n t s f r o m t h e j o b b e r , t h e K e i . n k r

. m i l i l l - . 1 ( " . • n < i ! i - > ' - r o f s h o e s , a r i s e s f r f i i

DEFECTIVE A>~D POOF, COUNTERS.Y o u a n - a s w e " ! a w a r e u ( t h e f ; V a s w e a r e . t h a t t h e r e a i \ - \ n \ \ n v p o > r s ' l ' ^ t i l ' i t e s f o r s o e d 1 , - a i h e r < • o u n t . - r s u p o n l i u - m a r k e t . ^ h i < l i

| v u v p r o v e n w o r t h i e r , a n d i v - t f i t t o p i n i n t o a n v S I M , ; v u l ' r i > c a ' i ^ c - 1 a n y - n - . . T J t o f r r m - - r t > ; U < ; > ' s ; s < ; ' n n - . a n d m . - i n y o f v o i ; i i a \ r 1 - c c n

o i H i u n c d t - i 1 r < e / • # . ' / / ' / > • / ' / / A n / - \ - i i r - i s i n i ; • [ i n n . ' • ' ' > f " - - : - ' - ' 1 ( i r " i ' - ' ^ '••• t - e

HATCH ROCHESTER COUNTER,i > m u l e I >\ t i n s . o i n ? > m v I n s i ' i n i i n u e d t o - ! - , . w i n • • i t ' i l a r i l v ; i ; i i s n e w R ' ( o i : m / e ' a s i : i » - l e a d i n g ( ' o n n t r i - i n t i n s o ; : n l i v - l u l l x , . : n , i !

> o t i n - / < / • • > / w ' / / ' / / / . ' / " ' >• i ' < > " n h » ' • ' • / < a n d i n w ' / ' . v ////-•_*• o f _: T M U / / I " s u S r : > ; ' U : a s 1 ; v . m I n c . m - r u i l v l o o k a t

OUR GUARANTEEa m i t h i n k w h i t i ? i n - * a n s . w h a t a n i > ' t n i t ' n s < - tr///>>//>// o f / n < : i f i / j ,!,; ' ,/;/•: - i ! " \* :' i r / i c ' 7 ' >' y<>!( l r , < m , \ > v a t l o p t i n ^ o u r C « » i m l 1 - 1 i n \ o i i r ^ I U M I S .

V w « • > - t . i » d i » - i w r o n i ' . ' / / . t i n . - /<•/>' /. t l i o / v / ' . ' / / , 1 / - . U T I : l v • . / / • ; / . t o c i <_• c - ^ . . ! : ' ' . i i a t w e w i l l j v . y < ' ^ » / > . o r ; , n \ c

r NEW PAIR OF SHOESI n . u i v : i ' i d i - v c r v o n e n - t ' i r n i n u a p a i r o \ s h o i . s m w h i r h o n " (. O M i v r i " i-> i i s < - ' 1 t i n ; t , : ) l i t o o n ' w e a r t i i < - . s h o e S u c h a ^ u a r a n l e c w a s n e v e r

• • i v e n w i t h a > ^ ! " ! s o i e l - a t h - - - ' • » \ i : i t e ; ' . a n i l w n o - ^ n l \ ' u i ; i i<- ' i " ; _ ! \ e i t . f r o i i t h e l a e t t ' - i . i t w e d o n o t u s e a n y s i i o d d x o r n e . t | > m a t e r i a l .

; t l , ] i n I . ' H a l l i i i . i t c r i . i l u s e d i n o u r u o o d s i s

MADE TO OUR ORDERr - s p c r i a l l y t o r t h i s ( J o t u i t e r , a n d w e u ' i y a m ; u s e MO !IHIL, ,...it I-!).- h e t i K r n i o ' i e y w ' i i in.:-, \ \ m a k e m r ** E U T C l O C O U f l t e r "

i n r m e i u , i ' o v a n d \ u u t ! i s h o e s , n u t -are v , a l e r j ; r o o i a s w c i i a s • •'! i i roof . W t n r U c a i " E X C 6 " S i O f C o u n t 6 f " for a f ine

-in.Lilf-- —»lc s h o e . whi< •> i-; t i a - ' u : . -••"t a n d ]-li;- ; -i - W e P K I , . - - • •"•• " H a t c h R o c h e s t e r ' ' i""1 ^ o u ) . - i , \ . m i s s e s ' a n d c h i l d r e n s

] v \ i \ v . ' ^ r a i n . l>nlV. <-:i'f : i nd l o r all <hor< Us,!.' amra t'r /• <.:• » : < ••/ ;„ , •, ,, ,-,,,/,,•/ ,,,,,r::.,< - ; v A •/',,/• /,< anv (cntiter

irui.tr-, r?>> ir,t"- v ' •' :.' ••'>• / V ' . ' , / ' / / v v / ' P S i1, e k r - j V I :'. U r " ' v ? r ,, •<" p . . i r s h j , , i ; m v ' • « - s .

IV YOU HAVE HAD TROUBLEw i t l i o t h e r m a k e s o f C o ' . u i t t / T s . d . u n o t l i c s i t a t e t<'j - r , e •.»•.•!> a i n , i " c - i i : i ; <" t ;• s \ d v , w i M w i l l n < ' \ e r r e - i r t i t . I t w i l l i ; i v f

i;,uuh-fn- /-• i v / / / - i V " v / y , a n d l i u i l d n p a r e p ' i l ; r o i : f o r s o i l : l . a i : l - . i ; : ;• i ' » r i s ^. •. I s i w l i i e h vv: ('ounter i s u s e d . \ i n o u -

I h e l a r g e s t a n d m o s t j ^ j n v n e n i m a n n f . T - t u i T - ' - s t ' i e ! i ! : o \ v ; i i ^ > ; r : , h - . u \ \ n - ^ d o r o m r , ; . t ! -

PAST TEN TO TWELVE YEARS' I ' h e H a y S t a t e S h o e e V I / ' i ^ e r C n . . T k J ' > - ' "• . \ S ' - o - k V 1 •• ( ' ( . . ; . ; . \ f

v . , s r , . . ,. \ i u n ( : e ' - t \ o . . m l i i c i r < i - l e l n a t e d S o l . i r T i p

j d i o f s D u r i n g t h i s t i m e P i ' . ^ e f i - n ^ h - > v ! • = < - • r;

30.000.000 PAIRSo f t h e H a t c h R o c h e s t e r C o u n t e r , v n > \ f r o m t i n s i i m i i c i . s r :< < a j f I. u t i u ' e i ' s w e ] ' " " n o ' i » . i i • f o r A '/ frrirs / > / . » / W » < - \ . a n d t h e r e p u t a t i o n

o f t h e u o o d s m a d e b v t h e s e firms a s t o w e a r p n d r i i r a ! ' i i s ••'••• n / /•' ;<•-•>"

* r « i n | » l < » l » j m a i l f i - ^ r . J » M « 1 n i l < « > i i i « M i M i i < - n t i o i i s < l i f - o i T u l i > : I I I S T \ <- i <><! ,

Hatch Patent Crimper Co,M : I . n i l i . I 1 \ < . ROCHESTER, N. Y.HAVERHILL OFFICE, BOSTON STORE, T ^ - N OFFICE, ROCHESTER FACTORY,

:;s u '»->i i i t«r«f i i i *••. "«'» T^. .voi i«»in. - «ii. •...,! i , , . , , , , , < } , i , . , . <t l ? 1 ( o , . , , i;iv,,r |.-,



AN OUTING WITH MR. COX.

At Alexandria Bay—Up the St. Lawrence—Among the Thousand Islands — And a

Fibh Story.

" Mr. Cox is not in Rochester, he has goneto Alexandria Bay, and is stopping at theCrossmon House. He would be glad to seeyou, and you better take a trip up ther e."

This was the news that greeted the writer,as he entered Mr. Cox's office, and, as hestood pondering on the uncertainties of lifeand if the RECORDER could spare hisservices for a trip to the line, Mr. John Swan,tho secretary of the P. Cox Shoe Co., re-marked :

"You better go up, you will have agood time there."

Go up it was, and that night when thetrain left the Rome, Watertown & Ogdens-burg depot, the sleeper contained one news-paper man snugly wrapped up for the night.At 5.30 the following morning, the trainarrived at Clayton, N. Y., and fifteen minuteslater the steamer started up the St. Lawrenceriver for Alexandria Bay, where she arrivedat 7 o'clock, and anchored within 200 feet ofthe Crossmon House. Here the writer metMr. Cox, who. was making a stay there tobenefit himself from an attack of the hayfever. Mr. Cox was asked if he did notthink the RECORDER well maintained its rep-utation of being the leading and most enter-prising shoe paper in following him to theCanadian line. He laughed and said he wasonly too glad of the visit, as he was pleasedto meet some of his friends to help him en-joy himself, and that if no objections wouldbe made, a fishing trip would be the order ofthe day. No objections being raised, themotion passed the house unanimously. Afterbreakfast, preparations for the day's trip weremade. A lunch was put up at the hotel, theboatman got things ready, and the start wasmade. It was a lovely day for such sport,and as the boat glided over the beautiful bodyof smooth clear water there was presented tothe eye a most picturesque scene, one thatthe most able pen would have great difficulty todescribe. Dotted here and there over thewide river was island after island. The boat-man's arrangements were perfect; tapestrycarpet lined the bottom, which was as dry asa parlor floor, cane seat chairs with backsand side arms made the voyage a pleasureA locker provided with ice and a set of cook-ing utensils made up the cargo, including asupply of fishing tackle. After a row ofabout five miles, the boat was brought up tothe Canadian shore, and the fish lines weregot ready and business commenced in earn-est. Trailing along, the next important eventwas to get a "bite." At last it came, and thewriter was the lucky man; slowly he pulledin his line and the great fish was in sight.when, giving a dart, out it went, and with itthe forty feet of line. It was rare sport in-deed, but at last the unlucky fish was landed,and five pounds was its weight as the scalesshowed.

•There," said Mr. Cox, "don't that makeyou feel as if you had never caught fish be-fore?"

There was no mistake, it did. Other beau-ties followed the first. At 1 o'clock the boat-

man pointed out in the distance an island onwhich could be seen a little house, and saidit was his home; his family had gone away

SCENE ON THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER.

for the day, and there we could land and par-take of our dinner. Once on the island thewriter was reminded of some scene describedin an interesting work of fiction, but theboatman's home was by far the most inter-esting. Built of rough boards that had stoodthe weather of many seasons, it consisted offour rooms on the ground floor. One was anL about 10x14 feet a n d was used fora kitchen ;the roof was slanting. Opening out of thiswas a room about the same size that servedas parlor, sitting-room and bed-room. Itwas about 6l/2 feet high, and from the rearopened two small rooms, or what were noth^ing more than closets, say 5x6 feet each. Inthese were a bed each, and here lived theboatman with his wife and three children. Itwas into the parlor we were invited, whileour dinner was being cooked ; this task wascompleted in about half an hour, and thenwith all things ready we pulled our chairs upto the table and commenced an onslaught onthe viands laid before us. Let us give youthe bill of fare :

Fried Fish.Fried Cutlets. Broiled Chicken.

Broiled Potatoes.Apple Pie. Pears.

Claret. Coffee.

By the gods, did we ever eat such a meal ?Rough chairs and table, a clean white table-cloth, iron knife and fork, tin teaspoons, andno decorative crockery. During the repastMr. Cox dropped his knife and fork, andlooking the writer in the eye, said : "Look atour surroundings ; did you ever see anythingmore humble, at the same time so neat andclean; and I have no doubt these people are

THE BOATMAN'S HOUSE, WHERB LUNCH WAS TAKEN.

as happy here as we who live in finer houses.'The writer admitted the truth of this asser-

tion.

After dinner was over, a social hour waspent, when the boat was made ready and

ive again embarked and cast our lines intothe water. While we were trailing along, Mr.Cox explained the pleasure he had had theday before in catching a fish that weighedsix and a half pounds. "It was a beauty,"he remarked. When asked why he did notsend it home to Rochester, he said : "I fullyintended to when I pulled him in, but aftera second thought I decided it would not do."When asked why so, he said : "Well, if I hadsent it home and written that I had caughtit up here, they would have laughed at it,and accused me of buying it, so I decidednot to do so."

As the hour of six drew near, the boatmanhad made a distance of seven miles fromAlexandria Bay, and our next move was towatch for the steamer that was due about7 o'clock at this point. At last she hove insight in the distance, so pulling in our linesthe boatman made ready to catch her. Itwas a ride of fully two miles across the river,but bending to the oar he made the boat spinalong, and in "a very few moments thetwo boats came side by side. Hauling alongto the steamer, Mr. Cox, the writer, and theboatman was taken aboard, and the fishingboat fastened abreast. An hour later wewere landed at Alexandria Bay, and the day'ssport was over. A hearty supper, that wasnot so romantic as the dinner in the boat-man's hut, with a rest and social talk in thesmoking-room, and we retired to our beds toenjoy a good night's sleep and dream of bigfish.

MR. FORD'S EXPERIENCE IN EUROPE.

In conversation with Mr. Ford of Hough& Ford, that gentleman told a very interest-ing story about his experience in Europeamong shoe manufacturers. In times past,our foreign contemporaries have shown somevery elegant styles of shoes in fancy makeswhich have given the impression that Europeis ahead of our country in the manufactureof the finest class of goods. But a touramong the shoe factories in England, France,Germany and Vienna, would easily convincethe most skeptical that the class of goodsmade in this country that come under thehead of fine shoes exceed in style and beautyanything produced in foreign parts, unlesswe may except the line of fancy satin or ball-room shoes, or a class of goods for which wehave no sale. Mr. Ford says that he madean extended tour among the manufacturersin England, Germany and Vienna, and thatwhile there he was very much surprised tosee the class of goods produced for the finestgrade. In Paris, the very nicest goods thatare made, and which may be chssed as A 1,are the product of cobblers and not shoemanufacturers. While in Paris, Mrs. Ford,-who accompanied her husband abroad, vis-ited one of the finest stores in the city andasked to see the nicest pair of shoes they hadin their establishment. These goods wereplaced in her hands, and she afterwards con-fessed to her husband that it was a pair ofshoes that she would not have purchased hadshe been at her own home in Rochester.Mr. Ford afterward explained that he foundone firm, named Otto Herz & Co. who aremanufacturers at Frankfort-on-the-Main, Ger-


50 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5,

E desire to call the attention of our old Customers and as manynew ones as may be interested, to some of our

NEW • STYLESFor the Spring of '88 we shall have Four

NEW Lasts; a Full Line of Oxfords, Slip-pers and Louis XV. Boots at prices to meetthe popular demand.

We shall also add to our Regular Line, a Bright Finished KLD BOOT, at $2.25. We will malethis on any of our Fourteen different Styles of Lasts, in any of the following Widths, tftftfy rt£, rf, B, C,D, E and F. For the balance of the New Things, {and theie are more,) either write for Samples or waituntil our Salesman calls.

D. ARMSTRONG & CO., 120 MILL ST., ROCHESTER, N. y.



ZACATECA. HADANERA. CARUPANI.

COIMBRA. CANARIA.

many, and who made a very handsome lineof goods, considering the class of workmenthey have there compared with those wehave in America. Mr. Fdrd's explanation ofthis seeming difference in shoes betweenEurope and this country is, that the feet arenot as carefully looked after or as muchthought of in the way of clothing as they arehere in the United States, and he said thathe was fully convinced that American bootsand shoes could not be made to suit con-sumers on the Continent.

SPANISH STYLES.

The Dainty Productions of the Spanish Shoe-makers for the Fair Senoritas.

We have frequently had occasion to referto the excellent workmanship of the Spanishshoemakers, who give their attention to ex-cellence and elegance rather than to qualityand cheapness. Barcelona is one of theprominent cities of Spain and also holds aleading position in the shoemaking industry.La Zapateria Ilustrada (Shoemaking Illus-trated), which is published at Barcelona, isspecially noted for the excellence of the de-signs given in its illustrations. This is trueof the artistic conceptions as well as in the

perfect proportions of the drawings. Itlooks like very simple work to make a sketchof a shoe for an engraving or lithograph, butfour draughtsmen out of five will utterly failto gis'e anything that would be recognized bythe designer of the shoe, the proportions inmost cases being the most ridiculous possi-ble. And yet nothing is prettier than thegraceful curves of a well-made shoe. Theillustrations given herewith are reproducedfrom the supplement sheets of La ZapateriaIlustrada and the perfect proportions of theoutlines will at once be noticed.

The designs given are all for ladies' shoes.The first, called the Zacateca shows a hand-some style with a decided novelty in the cutof the facings and toe-cap. It is describedas being made entirely of gilded or bronzedkid or a still more striking combination isblack kid with the front facing and top ofwhite glazed leather. Other combinationswill readily suggest themselves suitable to thedemands in different localities.

The Coimbra is a very pretty novelty in alow-cut style, the top being described aswhite kid or gilded with plain kid vamp andquarter. An extra finish is given by the rowof holes around the edge and smaller holesbetween the rows of stitching around theedge and at the top.

The Habanera is a pretty slipper styleshowing a pleasing modification of the ordi-nary cut for the top. Any suitable materialis used, the ornamentation beiog given by thestitching work around the top and the hand-some bow at the instep.

The Canaria is another modification of theordinary slipper cut with a fastening over theinstep with ribbon bows and ornaments. Thematerial is very light leather suiiable for thestyle. Silk or satin is also used.

The Carupani is a handsome design in con-gress style made of kid with the narrow serratededged trimming of patent leather. The frontpiece with imitation buttons comes to a pointat the top of the instep with the lower endsextending around at the sides of the vampseam in something of an anchor shape.

The Menorquina is another modificationof the congress style, showing still anothervariation in the edges of the vamp and heelpiece The ornamental front piece in thiscase is ornamented with small buttons andlace in addition to the pinking and stitching.The front piece extends further back at thesides of the vamp seam, giving a more pro-nounced anchor shape, the whole forming aneat and pleasing design.

The styles are all attractive, and offer val-uable suggestions for designers.


52 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

AH THERE!

ATTENTION?JOBBERS AND RETAILERS.

SKI: AMI

//<</' our

REGISTERED LABELSnve pitf on rreru <hoe mm Inn/, if js cf

SURE PROTECTIONFar you against front!* // not onfy helps

n*ll your ffootis, hut yirrs

YOUR CUSTOMER CONFIDENCE,

\s he knows no one" would give such a guarantee ifthe shoes had a ch-ap pasteboard or shoddy Counterin them. You will make a friend 01 him and as longas he lives, h e will liny of yoii aâ ' i i . will briiu,' his

c h i l d r e n a n d his c h i l d r e n s c h i l d r e n to buy their

s h o e s of y o u . You will h . n ^ a > >. iv c o n s c i e n c e ai'.d

s l e c i ' w e l l n i ^ h l s , no ! hav ing to lie aw.ikr th inking of

t h e d e p r e c i a t i o n in t he vaine of t h e sh<«-< <>n vour

she lves from p o o r ' o t in te r s .

NO MATTER HOW LONGY o u ' . irry shoes in. stock, our •'i.iriintee holds goo-!.

And at any time if a pnir of siiors is retnrn'.'i. -!y a

customer, that ha«; uiir ' "(»nntf-j- in that has failed to

«»i!twpar the shoe

THE HITCH V

"Muter Counti:WARRANTED.

Cash will b* paid for

t «»«ry pair of Shows In

\Which OUR OOUNTERj ,„„„ , N ,« I* u«»J - t h a t fails to »•»%outw*ar the S h o e . / a p ' ^ . n 1 .

GIVE A NEW PAIR OF SHOESr». jtJ't'"'' of 'hftn or

REFUND THE CASH!And on ret'rM of ih-.- i-Jioes i> -is \ mail, we wHl pay

cash ft »r them. '"This is MO tuf:Y," as sonic juities

say, we c.innot afibnl to ûar^n tce . a shoe worth

l2.on to f;.(.(•> ;i p;iir. i-.K- the small sunii.wc get fora

pair of Coni ' t r r s , but we do all the sam<?, and know

what v;e ;in- T ilking aôiit. and what wt; are doing,

w< use !rothu:j: but. the iVst Material , and make

rôd. l loui ' s t ( loods . This plan we n.i\e lolloweci fo

the past fiii< en year>.

• •>

Nearly Ten MillionsOf Pairs of our Counters

llnri- htin wifil by a Prominent Mttnu-

1'ichirer h> ti

Boj-\ and Youth's School Shoe

In the. p.ist e i -h t or ten years, and we h:tve ]»aid him

for no! over five pairs oi ^;,«)fs out of this immense

(.[onnter ( oukl < l-iim such

Samples sent fre? to any part of the World

HATCH PATENT CRIMPER CO.,Bftvorhill Office, 23 WasWnarton St., Boetoa Store and Office, 289 Devonshire St., Rochester Office an* Facto*7j!21-i31



There is nobody who gets as free much ad-vertising as a free advertiser. By this is meantan advertiser who is liberal in expenditures.As an example of this may be mentioned theWaterbury Watch Co., whose advertisingschemes have provoked comment by thepress in all sections of the world. Their lat-est, and one of their most original enterpriseswas that of hiring all the barges and smallsteamers which could be rented on the Thamesriver several weeks before the Cambridge Ox-ford boat race, and publishing in the dailypapers at the time of the race that any per-son having a Waterbury watch could goaboard of these crafts free of charge. It isneedless to say that the vVaterbury watchessold like the traditional hot cakes, and many aman with a first-class gold case timekeeperin his pocket, rushed wildly into the nearestjeweler's and purchased a "Waterbury" forthe sake of getting a good opportunity toobserve this great race, which is to Englandan affair of national importance.

Slowly but surely, people are being broughtto see the folly, if it can be called by noworse name, of wearing boots and shoes un-fitted for comfort, and directly responsiblefor a great amount of suffering and disability.The anatomical requirements are being morerespected by the makers of lasts and patterns,and it will not be long before the public willbecome so thoroughly in favor of healthy andstrong feet encased in sensible and properlyfitting boots and shoes that the destroyingand monstrously senseless styles heretoforeso much in vogue will be considered in thelight of curiosities. One of the most origi-nal and persevering exponents of reform infootwear fs Thomas R. Evans of Philadel-phia, who this week has a very fine display ofhis patented boots, shoes and gaiters at theMechanics' Fair in Boston.

Mr. Evans hits the nail on the head whenhe says: "Go to the savage tribes or the bare-foot boy for perfect-shaped feet. Go any-where except to civilized and enlightenedcommunities." In addressing the public hesays: "See how your feet are deformed bywearing these instruments of torture and en-emies of God," referring to the conventionalfootwear. "When you were a little child,"he says, "your large toe stood right straightout. From wearing wrongly constructed andridiculously absurd foot covering, see howyour large toes are twisted and the cornerstone knocked from 'under the arch. Thereare twenty-six bones in your foot, and ten-dons, muscles and ligaments. Every one ofthem is put there to work." Mr. Evansholds that the great toe should be in a directline with the heel, the cap of the knee andthe eye, and his boots and shoes as exhibitedcertainly do promise much in the directionof securing for the much abused pedal ex-tremities of the human race, comfort, strength,

mess...

On a sign in front of a cobbling shop inPhiladelphia we noticed a few days ago theannouncement:

"17 Minuetsfor Half-Soling."

The minuet being a somewhat lengthy fig-ure in the art of Terpsichore, we imaginethat seventeen of these would take morethan the average wayfarer can spare for hav-ing his understandings half-soled. Perhapsthe cobbler meant minutes; if so we thinkhe should take his sign painter to task.

Another sign under the window of a neatand attractive retai' establishment read :

"Reliable Shoes Only."There was a good deal in this announce-

ment for a person of a reflective turn, and itwould seem that people generally would bemore likely to bestow their patronage upon aman who advertised in such a manner than upona dealer who every few days has a startlingplacard :" Everything in This Store Below Cost,"

" A $2.00 Shoe for 75 Cents."

The scissors grinder with his tinkling belland grindstone mounted like a wheel-barrowis now superseded in some large cities by themore pretentious outfit of a horse and wagon,in which are the grindstones with one, twoor three workmen. In one city, we know ofa grinder who has all the business he canpossibly do, and drives about to the variousfactories, shops, meat markets, etc., where-ever tools need sharpening, takes the knives,chisels or other implements into his coveredwagon, and presently emerges therefrom withthe jobs completed, gets his money, whips uphis nag and drives to the next place.

Those who have read the very able and in-teresting articles from the pen of an Englishsurgeon on "The Human Foot in Health andDisease" will have noticed his statement thatthere is no cure for corns. The only remedyfor the pain and inconvenience caused bythese plagues is to remove the cause, whichis to be found in the boot or shoe pressingupon the diseased part. A corn once engen-dered, the "true skin" (underlaying the epi-dermis) is punctured and never regains itsnormal condition. Removal of the cause ofirritation will, of course, give relief, but a re-currence of the pressure on the part evenyears after will again give trouble. This isa fact that is not generally known, that thereis no cure for corns.

CONFIDENTIAL COMMUNICATIONS.

New-Fangled Notions That Confuse thePublic.

BY UNCLE GEORGE.

I am a man who loves to see everythinggo along without excitement and with nohitches an) where.

My frequently expressed desire to see old-time ways observed and ancient ideas fol-lowed, creates some opposition among theupstart portion of the community, but notmuch sense can be expected from the ma-jority of people nowadays, and I let a gooddeal pass without reply.

To show, however, that I am not mulishlyset in my convictions, I am always ready totry new things if there is the slightest pros-pect of getting benefit thereby, and lastweek, having heard and read a good dealabout the advance made of late in repairingboots and shoes, I was induced to try a manwho had the following sign out' in front of hisshop:

BOOTS AND SHOES

HALF-SOLED WHILE yOUj WAIT

For 75 cents/

I had some misgivings about this place,but I know that there is a great rivalry be-tween some of these new-fangled repairingfellow.-, and so I took my chances. Said Ito the proprietor,

"I want these boots of mine half-soled andI want a good honest job," and I looked himplnmb in the eye. He smiled like a basketof chips, and said he,

"Certainly; in twenty minutes you canhave them ready to wear."

"All right," said I, and sat down with myfeet protected from the draughts by a news-paper. There were several other personswhose feet were protected in the same way,all waiting.

When I had sat so long that I had almostfallen off my chair two or three times throughdozing, the shoes were brought to me, and Iwas about to pay for them when I noticedthat one of the attendants was having a rowwith a customer.

"How long am I to wait?" said the cus-tomer.

"Wait for what ?" asked the assistant. "Youhave your shoes."

"Yes, but I am now waiting for the 75 centswhich you offer."

"Seventy-five cents ! Why my dear manthat is what you owe us for half-soling theshoes."

The man got mad then."Don't your sign say 'Boots and shoes half-

soled while you wait for 75 cents,' I wouldlike to know?"

The proprietor hastened to the man andtried to explain, but it was no use; he heldthat he had been swindled, and I regret tosay that the stony-hearted proprietor of theplace sent for an officer and forced thepoor man to pay 75 cents or go to jail!

When we stop to consider the many con-fusing and mysterious devices placed beforethe people to ensnarl their understandingsand bewilder their faculties by the shoe man-ufacturers and dealers, is it any wonder thatmistakes and rumpuses result?

It was only the other day that I heard ashoe man say that Mr. Goodyear's welts con-stituted a large portion of the genuine hand-sewed goods sold in this country. I supposedthat Mr. Goodyear must make good welts andso I remarked that I was pleased to learnthat the welt business was good, and that Mr.Goodyear was selling so much welt leather.

The shoe man snickered and said he guessedI was "off."

What he meant I don't know, but evidentlythere was a hitch somewhere.

I am going to hunt up Mr. Goodyear andlook over his stock. It makes me all upsetto be in the dark on these matters.


5 4 T H E BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER (October 5,

COWLES BROS. & CO..MANUFACTURERS OF'

Misses' and C h i r m ' Turned and McKay Sewed Shoes,Office and Salesroom, 33 Market St. Factory 31, 33, 35 Hill St. '

ROCHESTER, N. Y.

We are now making as a specialty a full line of Misses'and Children's

Goat Straight Goat Kid andDongola McKay Sewed Sboes

WITH SPRING HEBLS,

And which we think are not excelled.

SE3ST3D FOIR PEICE LIST.

A full line of samples can be seen at over No. 199 Madison St., Chicago. III.

HEXTRV R. HOWARD & COMANUFACTURERS OF

LADIES' AND MISSES

Fine JHachme^Sewed, flaiSewed Welts!AND

HAND-SEWED TURN SHOES.

©UfLY THE BEST MATERIAL USED, WORKMANSHIP GUARANTEED

21 TO 2 7 NORTH WATER ST., - ROCHESTER, N. y .



AHDOHNOTES5 nN d ^»*****

In reading the descriptions of the sumptu-ous furnishings of the special train which car-ries the President on his Western trip onecannot help making comparisons with luxuryin former years. Men now living can easilyremember the time when a coach and-fourwas regarded as almost the height of extrava-gance. A coach-and-six WJS specially re-served for royalty or very high rank. Butcompare the most elaborate coach-and-sixwith the Pullman train which not only the Presi-dent can have, but which can be engaged byany one with pretentions to wealth.

This is only an illustration of the changeswhich have been brought about by machinery.The scant earnings of the laborers in formeryears sufficed for only the barest necessitiesof existence. Comforts were only for thefew, and luxuries only for the great oneswhose positions gave them the power to levytribute. Machinery has increased the pro-ductive power of the worker, so that articlesthat were formerly exclusive luxuries are nowcommon necessities. The difference betweenthe condition of common working peopletoday, and say one hundred years ago, is asgreat or greater than between the coach-and-four and the Presidential train. The poorestnow have the comforts that kings could notprocure in former years.

It might be asked if this is so, how is thepresent discontent amongst the workers to beaccounted for. The answer would be thatit is only a phase of human nature. Thehuman animal can never be entirely satisfied.There always is, and always will be, untilhuman nature changes, a desire for somethingnot possessed. This desire is as strong inthe richest as in the poorest. The rich manof former times longed for the coach-and-six;now he wants nothing less than a Pullmantrain. In the future it will be something else.The man who now takes pride in a fast yachtwill in the future probably spread himself ina gorgously appointed air ship.

The workman in olden times was ambitiousmainly for a full stomach, and to secure thishe was willing to be the chattel of any strongarmed fighter who would protect and feedhim. He was content with a mud hovel with-out windows, with a hole in the roof to let outthe smoke from the faggots that burned onthe floor, and happy with a bundle of strawfor a bed. Now the poorest must have acomfortable house, warmed by a stove, car-peted floors, and all the thousand articles ofcomfort and utility that were unknown then.But the serf envied and Jonged for the coarserough fare and coarser clothing of the feudallord with his cheerless barn of a castle, andthe modern workman being of the samehuman species envies and longs for comfortsor luxuries which he sees others enjoying.

It is almost as easy to persuade workmennow that they are oppressed, persecuted anddowntrodden, as it was in the old feudal days.They do not stop to think of the changedconditions, indeed a great portion know noth-ing about the former conditions. It is thedesire for something better that controls them,and although this desire is a source of troublein some ways, it must be admitted that it isalso the grand mainspring o f all human progress.Without it we would all be grovelling savagesor rather mere animals, for savages have thesame human desires, and the same longingfor something better than they already possess.

But what has all this got to do with busi-ness, and why this philosophizing? Wellthere is an application. Some timid soulsare afraid that we are getting altogether toomuch machinery, and that there will be nodemand for labor ; that there will be an over-production of everything, and finally some-thing very like chaos or a grand smash up.These philosophers entirely overlook the mostimportant feature of all, and that is the veryphase of human nature we have, been talkingabout. The laborer feels as poor today as hedid two hundred years ago, although his con-dition is so vastly improved; while the richare far less happy in the possession of theirwealth. What does this prove? Does itnot show that no matter how fast productionmay be increased, the desires or wants of thepeople will easily keep pace ?

Take the labor required to furnish the Pull-man train with the railway to run it on fora president's trip, and compare it with thelabor required to supply the coach-and-sixfor a king's journey. Then figure out theprobability of a decrease in the demand forlabor. If it was a possibility for humannature to rest content with present conditionsfor even a brief period, there might be sucha thing as overproduction by too much ma-chinery. But human nature cannot be con-tent. The old homely saying is, "Muchwants more," and much always will want more.New inventions or new methods of produc-tion only mean new luxuries, which quicklypass, as the production is increased, fromluxuries to necessities.

Take the continent of Africa for example,and aside from the fringe of coast settlements,the condition of the people is the lowest inhuman scale. They are not troubled withmachinery, and we might add that they arenot troubled with wages either. The wantsof the people are few. Nature is lavish withfood, and a few feathers with a daub of paintanswers for rainment. It is an ideal condi-tion for the labor reformers because the na-tives are opposed to ten hour*a day, or eighthours a day, or any hours at all. They arefree from grinding monopolies and all capa-talistic tyrants. All the dreams of the social-ists and Henry George land theories arefully realized, and it is only necessary toadopt the labor reform, socialistic, HenryGeorge ideas to bring us up or down, as thecase may be, to the African level.

But suppose the Africans were to discardthese theories, or rather the practice, for theyare not troubled with theoretical cranks.

Suppose their human nature was stirred upwith a knowledge of the comforts of civiliza-tion. Suppose every male African shouldsuddenly be seized with a desire for a cottonshirt and overalls, and every female Afticanwith a desire for a dress, where would thearticles come from, if there was no supplyfrom outside ? There would be an immediatedemand for labor, with an increase in theworking hours. Then would come morewants with more demand for labor to supply,until the point was reached where unaided.labor could do no more, and machinery mustcome in to assist. In just so far as the Afri-can progresses from his present position willhe have new wants to supply, for which theremust be more labor and more machinery.

In this view of the case it will be seen thatthe talk about overproduction is misleading.As long as there are so many millions of peo-ple who are unable to obtain what we con-sider actual necessities, it is clear that so farfrom being an overproduction there is a wantfor more. What these people need is em-ployment that will enable them to earnenough to supply themselves with thesenecessaries. Instead of leducing produc-tion, which means throwing laborers out ofemployment, more machinery is needed tofurther reduce the cost, thus increasing thedemand and furnishing more employment.

Take the manufacture of watches for anillustration: A few years ago watches were aluxury that only a comparative few could in-dulge in. A watch represented an amountof skilled labor that put the cost beyond themeans of the majority. Machinery was intro-duced, and the skilled watchmakers lookedwith alaif m on what they thought was a deathblow to their occupation. They argued nat-urally enough that the machines would sup-ply the demand for watches with a much lessnumber of workmen. The increase in thedemand was not considered. But the in-crease .came with the lower prices, and watchfactories have multiplied. More workmenare engaged and wages are higher.

Much the same result is found in the shoe-making industry. More machinery with lowerprices has increased the demand. Woodenshoes are discarded. Instead of the stogaboots of former years with their cast ironsolidity, the demand now calls for finer workand more labor to produce them, moreworkmen are employed than with the oldmethods of shoemaking, and they earn betterwages. This is true of all other industries,and it is almost an invariable rule that thehighest wages are earned in the industriesthat employ the greatest amount of labor-saving machinery.

The labor agitators and socialistic shouterseither do not take the trouble to inform them-selves of these facts, or else they willfullysuppress them in order to make out a case tocarry their own ends, and make the work-men feel dissatisfied. This is their stock intrade, for without this dissatisfaction their oc-cupation as champions of the oppressedwould be gone, and they would be obligedto face the cold world and earn their liv-ing the same as other people who do notmake such professions of philanthrophy.


56 THE BOOT AND SROE RECORDER.

IK N / | 111-

inHii.'!1./ muMoi in l i i r ,, Warranted

^', rMuHMl \ / M.oney RHtunileil11 I I i s \ \ \ IV [T 1M

TO THE RETAILERS AND JOBBERS OF S ITHROlKxHOTT THE OJtMVO !

\\ e desire lo call yoiir especial attention io-y u - i i - v IMh'llUMl L i b i ' l s , wa ic i shuj[«l be o r d e r e d placed on CVCrj Shoe } OU

bll) r . liy ilum,< this yo i protect )uarse.lf from all illl[>OSi(f 011, and in this way get the

Hatch Rochester Counters.As no one (iuiv infringe upon t'ni^ iabt'1 vriiiio^t laying them>e:ve.-> iial.lc to a J i e a \ ) [H'HSlit.V. we 1:ave been obliged to adO|>t/>iul

the.se l a b f l S in ortler-fo ;"i"ote<-t, not only oi i rsehei , but our customers from unscrupulous niaiiui'.u \\\\\ is w nv eLnm to use the

genuine Hatch ('oiuiter, but wn.>. in fact, use inferior goods, which do not jjive sa(;i>faction.

* THE HATCH \

Mriwtar Cowl8T,"\WARRANTED.

/ THE HATCH \

/"Sochester Counter,"\THE HAidI

Counter,"WARRANTED.

S Cash wlil be paid for j««v«ry pair of 3ho«s I n *I Which OUR COUNTER •* is used - t h a t falls to f~^outweai the Shoe./

« Cash will be ,paldfcr j* «v»ry pair of Sho«» in jt which OUR COUNTER f\ Is used -that fa is to f

outwear the Shoe. /

S Cash will be paid fck every pair of Shoes In* which OL'R COUNTER,'\ Is usej - t h a t falls to f

x- the 8hoe. /

/ THE HATCH

/"Socliestsr CounUr,-WARRANTED.

{ Cash will be paid forj« every pair of Shoes In^» which OUR COUNTER^* la used - t h a t falls t o /

\outwear the Shoe. /

] ) \ - r e f e r r i n g t o o u r ] ) , . i c i ) ' . ed l a u e l \ o u w i l t , s - .c w e ,^.i ^ . M J I C L - m e h a ub f l

a i \ . ' ; » - . . . _ - i ; \ 2 ^ C o u n t e r , ;i.-, m a d e \<y t h i s

i

THE HATCH PATENT CRIMPER 00.,< > n , i i i . i l l u v e n t i A - s . . n j D i . l y . I ' . I I L I I I . .••; i , f i ' , , ;

CELEBRATED HATCH ROCHESTER COUNTER.BOSTON, OFFICE : EAVEIiHILL CFPIC;! : LCCl-ISSTEE, N. Y., OFFICE ;

"JUt Mrccl. I-'I lo I :e 1 l«iv«r Front.

O u r '• h \ < e i M u r t u u n k r " i s m a d e a n d i n t e n d e d o n i \ MM a l i u c M i i - i e • - . . ; ( ; K u i a n d ( , o . i I s i i o e , a u d u u h rtlli i a n t e d w i i e n s o u s e d , 'f who use this Counter in a llCaV) s>IHM* do so at ilieir own risk. A full sti.r-k. of th- se Counters can be found at ouri..ut Djiuiulacturers

store, 291 Devonsliire St., 1> »"• See JJlue I'ages, 44, 4S and 52 .



OOTSSHOES

REGULAR RUBBER BRANDS.

The following are the brands used by theRubber Shoe manufacturing companies ontheir goods, the first quality bearing the brandof the factory, while the cheap brands arenames of fictitious companies.FACTORY BRAND. 2ND GRADE BRAND.

Boston Rubber Shoe Co.,L. Candee & Co.,

Bay State Co.Atlantic Co.,

None now Made.Rhode Island Co.New England Co.

Connecticut Co.

Woonsocket Rubber Co ,Hayward Rubber Co.,Goodvear's M. R. Shoe Co.

(Wales Goodyear)American Rubber Co., Eagle Co.Para Rubber Shoe Co., Amazon Co.National Rubber Co., Empire R. Shoe Co.New Jersev R. Shoe Co. f J-co.Goodyear Shoe.J - \].co. Goodyear Boot.Meyer Rubber Co., No Seconds Made.

New Brunswick Rubber Co., \ Phoenix Co.(. r-ssex (_o.

Goodyear I. R. Glove Co , No Seconds Made.Lycoming Rubber Co., No Seconds Made.Lambertville Rubber Co., No Seconds Made.Union India Rubber Co. \ -n 1 r» I_T_ r>Goodyear Rubber Co. } Royal Rubber CoRay Rubber Co. formerly Franklin R. Co.L. B. Smith Rubber Co. North Star R.Co.

THIRD GRADE BRANDS.

Imperial Rubber Co., mfd. by National R.Co.Globe Rubber Co.. " " American R.Co.Norfolk Rubber Co. " New Brunswick R.C.

SPECIAL BRANDS.

by Para R. S. Co.,by Boston R. S. Co.

Goodyear Rub. Co.

Guaranteed as firsts by factories making them:Parker's Leather-Soled

Rubber Boot bv Boston R. Shoe Co.Same MadeHannaford BootNewark I. R. M'f'g Co.Crack-Proof,Gold Seal,Coasting,Toboggan,

Stout's Patent Snag Proof Boots by LambertvilleRubber Co.

Napoleon Gun Deck Boot by L. B. Smith R. Co

SPECIAL BRANDS.

The following brands are manufactured toorder for jobbers, some are professedly firsts,other*, seconds and thirds. The factories mak-ing these brands although asked to do so havenot intormed the RECORDER whether they willguarantee them as firsts, seconds or thirds:Western Rubber Co. by Para R. S. Co.Garden State Rubber Co. by Para R. S. Co.Lumbermen's Rubber Co. by Para R. S. Co.Solon Rubber Co., by Para Rubber Shoe

Nepoag, Con., Co.Reliable Rubber Co. by Woonsocket R. Co.Warrantable Rubber Co. by Woonsocket R. Co.Rubber Footwear Co. by National R. Co.Field, Thayer 01 Co. by Am. Rubber Co.Plr«»"!uth Rubber Co by New Brunswick Co.

^Itna Rubber Co. (Boots) by Brown & Co.by Brown & Co.by Union Rubber Co.by Ray Rubber Co.by Ray Rubber Co.

By L.B. SmithRubber Co.

Mystic Rubber Co.Newark Rubber Co.Childs, Groff & Co.G. W. Meader's BootStandard Rubber Co.Pacific Rubber Co.Goodyear Process (in a horse-

shoe.)

Retailers and jobbers are requested to promptlynotify the RECORDER of any new brands not onthe list of regular or special brands, as printedon his page, together with name of party offer-ing same and any information which may assistthe RECORDER in locating the manufacturer

ORPHAN (?) BRANDS.

The brands named below are not reported byany factory as their product, either as firsts,seconds or thirds. Any factory recognizingtheir offspring below, can have it classified bywriting the RECORDER, and stating the gradethey guarantee the brand to be.

Elastic Rubber Co.Long Pond Co.Star Rubber Co.Litchfield Rubber Co.Westfield Rubber Co.The Baltic Rubber Co.Vulcan Rubber Co.Boston Ideal Rubber Co.Nemo Rubber Co.Goodyear Boot and Shoe Co.Standard Rubber Co,Providence Pure Gum Duck Boot Co.Hiram B. Aylsworth Boot.

Retailers will please send in the names ofsuch stray brands as may come to their notice.

WIDTHS AND SIZES.

The RECORDER recently spoke of the dis-appointments suffered by retailers throughdemanding late shipments. The caption ofthis article is its twin and almost its equal indisturbing the well-laid plans of solid, con-servative shoe dealers. In considering itthe RECORDER does not wish its retail readersto suppose for a moment that it is writtenwith the idea that the retailer is not the bestjudge himself of what sizes and widths hisstock demands, but with the desire of point-ing out why a long time is taken in fillingspecial orders, if at all, and how a very simi-lar sizing could be obtained at once, and sopromptly that a few pains over actual needswould stand a good show of being cleared outby the longer season that they would be ex-posed to in the retailers shop for exhibitionand sale to his customers. To begin with itwould perhaps be profitable and certainly fairto consider the predicament of both jobbersand factories who find themselves loaded upwith orders for special sizes and widths.

It is a fact, that give two shippers in ajobbing house each an order to fill, one anorder for fifty cases of regular goods in usualsizes and widths, and the other an order fora single case of twenty-four pairs of specialsizes and kinds, and the first shipper will havehis order of fifty cases lined up to ship beforethe second shipper with equal diligence willbe able to p;et the cover nailed down on hissingle case.' This comparison of the relativetime required to fill regular and special or-ders is borne out by the experience of alllarge shippers.

With the factory the case is worse; alllasts are ordered in sets, and an order for asingle case of special sizes will frequentlybreak up three or four sets of lasts in orderto get those called for. Thus, the producingpower is reduced three-fourths to permitmaking the special sizes demanded in theother fourth, for the balance of the lasts ifused would only turn out irregular sizes thatcould not be used on other orders.

For these reasons neither factory or largejobber can, during the busy season, givemuch attention to special sizes. When every-body is pushing to have their orders filled,both factories and jobbers must employ alltheir energies on those orders that will per-mit of the largest production and shipment,and only when this is done can the specialorders be opened out for work. Many ajobber has promptly forwarded to the factorya retailer's order for special sizes in May andJune, only to have it filled or canceled inNovember or December.

Some readers may say that the remedy forthis consists in factories and jobbers carryinglarger and more complete stocks, and thatremedy would be possible if there was amargin for profits in manufacturing and sell-ing rubber shoes, but the majority of thetrade (retail) would prefer to save 5 percenton their purchases rather than pay that extrafor special sizes, and it is certain that 5 percent does not pay the extra cost between apackage and jobbing business.

Some jobbers advertise to fill sizes, buthow do they fill the orders? By putting inall brands and several grades of goods at oneprice, and thus getting in the extra price thatthey make by putting in low grade or secondgoods at first grade price, the extra 5 or 10per cent which the added cost of doing thiskind of business necessitates.

But even these jobbers cannot and do-notkeep sizes and widths on all goods. Thestaples are to be had in the size racks, butthe very goods which the retailer desires totake into stock sparingly, the goods that haveonly a limited call are not to be found there.Jobbers do not wish to overstock on themany more than the retailer.

In seeking the remedy for the disappoint-ments occurring to the retailer from thesecauses, let us first examine the need for spe-cial orders. In the first place, the experienceof both jobbers and retailers carefully notedis, that if" cne year the purchases run heavilyon small sizes they are very certain to beoverstocked on small sizes and the followingseason to run to the other extreme of order-ing all large sizes. Buying of extreme sizesone year almost always obliges the buyer togo to the other extreme in his purchases thenext year.

In the second place, if a retailer does notthink his trade will call for a full case (excepthip boots) of shoes of a given style and width,he had better leave them out. There willnot be any money for him in a trade that willnecessitate a stock of goods for the profit onless than a case of the total value of not overtwelve or fifteen dollars.

Not a few retailers endeavor to increasetheir stock on kinds not sold largely byordering two styles or two widths to a case.Don't do it ; it can't be profitable to you. Itsimply educates your customers to ask occa-



TACKLESS, SQEAKLESS, WATERPROOF SHOE.A tackless shoe has long been desired and called for by the tiade generally, and by con-

sumers in particular. Frequent complaints of corns on bottom of the feet and rusting of

stockings, also of stiff and squeaky shoes, have been made, without any relief. All of the above

complaints can now be avoided by using our tackleSS Shoe, lasted on a new machine

invented by our senior, and our new process which does away with the lasting tacks and 6ole

laying nails, leaving the insole as smooth as hand made. Shoes made by this process are

SqneakieSS, flexible and waterproof, and must supersede hand turned shoes, as they

are made durable and less likely to rip, not costing so much to make. We rivet at the toe and

ball the upper to the insole to prevent the shoe from coming loose at those points when th

outsole is worn thin. A shoe made as above is made desirable, and in the near future will be universally worn. We are now ready to

receive orders for Misses', Children's and Infant's Spring Heel goods in Straight Goat, Bright Dongola, Cur. Kid and French Kid.

Button Boots. We keep in stock Infant's Straight Goat and Dongola at $1.00, all sizes and widths to supply on demand.

HATCH FLEXIBLE SHOE CO., ROCHESTER, 1T.Y.

A. C. EASTWOOD,FINEST GRADES

GENTLEMEN'S

Cordovan,

Kangaroo

AND Calf .

HAND SEWED COODYEAR WELTSAnd the Genuine PURITAN WATERPROOF CALF

SKINS, in Gents Fine Shoes forWinter Wear.

We Warrant our GOODYEAR WELTS to WearEQUAL, TO THE BEST

HANI) SEWED.

For Style, Fit and Wear,

Equalled by Few, Excelled by None.FACTORY AND OFFICE :

JTIill, Cor. Factory Street,ROCHESTER, N. Y



sionally for what you do not intend to keepa full stock of, and after they find that youhave not the size and width that they desire,the chances are ten to one that the desirewill be so intensified that a search of yourcompetitors1 stores will be made for the shoe,and if found the competitor who has it hasgot the call on that customer. A retailerwho has made up his list of stock wantedwith these two points in his mind, can, if heknows the runs, almost always get his ordermade up in the regular runs of sizes packedby the factories and kept in stock by thejobbers.

For instances, nearly all factories packmen's boots in 6 to 8, 6 to 9, 6 to 10, 6 to11, 7 to 9, 7 to 10, 7 to 11, 7 to 12, 8 to 10,8 to 11 and 8 to 12, and by ordering combi-nations of these sizes, any retailer can getwhat he needs without making out an order tobe packed in solid or special sizes. It should,however, be remembered that hip and thighboots and light boots are seldom made in12's, and the runs from 8 up are seldompacked.

In wool goods, Arctics and Alaskas (notself-acting), the runs are duly varied by thelarger sizes made ; they are 6 to 9, 6 to 10,6 to 11, 6 to 12, 7 to 10, 7 to 11, 7 to 12,8 to 11, 8 to 12, 8 to 13, 9 to 12 and 9to 13.

Sandals and self-acting goods for men arepacked similarly, except that no 13's arepacked, and the runs from 9 up are omitted,and in the smaller sizes 6 to 8 and 7 to 9 arepacked.

Lumbermen's goods are packed in runssame as Arctics and Alaskas.

All these goods are packed for boys inruns of 1 to 6, 2 to 6, 3 to 6, 4 to 6, 5to 6, and from the small sizes up to 5 insteadof 6.

Youths' sizes on such goods as are madefor youths are regularly packed 9 to 13%, 10to i 3 # , 11 to 1 3 ^ .

Misses' goods are packed 11 to 2, 12 to 2,13 to 2, 1 to 2, and by some factories 11 to1 3 ^ . Children's goods in boots are packed6 to 10%, 7 to 10]^, 8 to io}4, 9' to 10^,

-and on such other lines as are made for chil-dren, 4 to 8, 4 to 10^, 5 to 8, 5 to ioj^,. 6to ioj4, 7 to 10^, 8 to ioj^ and 9 to ioj£.

In women's as in men's goods, the packingvaries according to the line. Women's bootsare packed regularly 2*4 to 5, 2 ^ to 6, 2*4to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 8, 4 to 8 and 5 to 8.

Women's Arctics and Alaskas are packed2*4 to 5, 2*/2 to 6, 2*4 to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 8,4 to 8 and 5 to 8.

Women's sandals and croquet run 2j4 to4, 2% to 5, 2*4 to 6, 2% to 7, 2]/t to 8, 3to 7, 3 to 8, 4 to 8, and in heavy goods 5 to8 are made.

These runs may not be regularly packedby all factories, and some factories maypack a few runs not here given, but nearlyall factories use the runs given above.

In specialties for men nothing over a 12.is made, and 12's are not made except on afew shoes. Only one or two factories makemen's goods in half sizes except on the spe-cialties.

Women's specialties are seldom made in8's except on wool lined goods. French heelsare not made on wool lined goods except byone or two factories.

Don't order goods in solid sizes if youwant prompt filling of order. The factorywill at once send you all that will apply. Ofcourse the-less desirable sizes, and you maybe weeks and months even without a case ofthe middle sizes which you need most. Or-der regular sizes, and reinforce those sizesyou expect to sell most of by a small orderof solids in addition, then you will get an as-sortment of sizes in your first shipment.

RUBBER NOTES.

A keeper has been placed in the Nationalrubber works, Bristol, on attachments issuedin a suit brought by Shipton Green of NewYork, for stock furnished. The works werealready closed, the operatives being out onstrike for payment of deferred wages.

"Ladies' rubbers, all sizes, new style, at 19cents." This is a flaming advertisement sentout by a retail shoe firm of Boston in lastSunday's papers. It also adds : "They areregular 35c. goods. It is an unusual oppor-tunity for ladies to purchase their fall supplyof rubbers. We shall sell only two pairs toeach customer." What nonsense, yet thereare no doubt hundreds of consumers whowill read the above, and believe every wordof it. If these goods are worth 35c. we willguarantee to sell the entire lot in one hourfor more than 25 c. per pair.

be #250,000 to be divided into shares oftendollars each, and the term of existence ofthis corporation shall be fifty years.

This corporation shall have three directors,and the following named persons shall consti-tute the board of directors for the first year,who shall manage the business of said corpo-ration, viz.: John W. Nutt, Clement T. Pet-chell and Joseph D. Mitchell.

In witness whereof we have hereunto sub-scribed our names, this 21st day of Septem-ber, 1887.

f John W. Nutt,Signed. ] Clement T. Petchell,

( Joseph D. Mitchell.The gentlemen interested in the concern

are from New York City, and are in Muncieto select ground and make necessary arrange-ments for building the factory. In all prob-ability the ground that will be selected willbe a part of the Watson Subdivision nowowned by the Harris syndicate. Arrange-ments are now being made for securing rail-road facilities for the approved site.

A NEW RUBBER CO.Muncie, Ind., to be the Seat of Operations.

Last week, Thursday, there was filed forrecord with the Recorder of Delaware county,Ind., the following article of incorporation :"Know all men by these presents, that we,John W. Nutt, Clement G. Petchell and JosephD. Mitchell, all citizens of the United States,do now and hereby organize a corporation inDelaware county, State of Indiana, to becalled known as "The Muncie Rubber Com-pany." The object of which corporation isto manufacture rubber goods, such as hose,belting, boots, shoes, clothing and other rub-ber articles, at or near the city of Muncie, inCentre township, Delaware county, State ofIndiana, and to transact any and all businessconnected therewith.

The capital stock of this corporation shall

THE GREAT YACHT RACE.

We talce pleasure in presenting on this pagean illustration of the most exciting event inthe shoe and leather trade of the country for1887—the great race of trade journals forpopular favor. About six years ago whenthe RECORDER first made its bow for popularfavor, the writer well remembers the remarkmade by a representative of one of our con-temporaries. "Do you ever expect to makeyour paper a permanent thins;? " he asked."That is about what we are here for and whatwe are going to work^for," was the reply."You might as well sail against a gale ofwind," was the parting salute and encourage-ment we received. Well, if sailing againstthe wind was necessary, it must be done. Inorder to secure success we were well aware itmeant work. In order to secure confidenceit meant honesty on our part. The mainsailwas hoisted, the yacht RECORDER was letloose, and in the great race she passed allcompetitors, and came in to the home stakeseveral miles ahead. The illustration showsthe positions of the others, and it will be no-ticed that one is in a bad way.

The RECORDER takes the cup.



INERY H u m ,WHERE ARE MANUFACTURED

GOODYEAR LOCK-STITCH MACHINE, for Stitching Shoes in- Shank and Fore-part while Shoe is on Last.GOODYEAR WELT MACHINE for Stitching on Welt in Shank and Fore-part while Shoe is on Last.GOODYEAR TURNED SHOE MACHINE, for Sewing Sole and Upper together while Shoe is on Last.GOODYEAR INSOLE AND OUTSOLE CHANNELLER. GOODYEAR WELT GROOVER AND BEVELER.GOODYEAR WELT SKIVER AND STRIPPER. GOODYEAR SHANK SKIVER.

GOODYEAR WELT BEATER.

THE above cut shows one of the finest manufacturing establishments in the city of Boston, provided with the most modern im-provements in machinery and fine tools for the manufacture of the machines referred to above. It is a large four-story detached

building, with good light on four sides, with steam elevator, and ample power and facilities for all demands upon the Company. Thesemachines are now extensively used by the manufacturers throughout the country, including the following firms in the city of Rochester:

Armstrong, D. & Co.Thomas Bolton.Cowles, Bros. & Co.Curtis & Wheeler.

A. C. Eastwood,Goodger & Naylor.Holland & Egan.Maloney, O'Connor & Co.

S. K. Newcomb,John Piehler,K. P. Reed & Co.Reynolds & Eddy.

S. Rauber & Co.Williams & Hoyt.Wright & Peters.Weaver, Thomas & Kirk.

The most recent production of the Company is their IVe^w L o c k - S t i t c h . M a c h i n e , now complete in all itsparts and guaranteed to give BETTER work in QUALITY, and CHEAPER in QUANTITY than can be procured by the ordinaryprocess of hand sewing.

For Circulars and Particulars, Apply to

Goodyear & McKay Sewing Machine Co., 158 S l i e r St., Boston.



MMERCIAL

Walter B. Cross goes West this week for I.A. Beals, Brockton.

The Volunteer is as steady as a "regular."(Thistle be Paine-ful to many.)

Field, Thayer & Co.'s representatives arenearly all at home preparing for the fall cam-paign.

If it is a question as to which to leave athome your overcoat or your cane, leave yourovercoat.

N. F. Eppsis representing Walden & Rob-erts of Cleveland, Ohio, in the northern partof that State.

The advent of new and killing fall suitson Summer street indicates that the boys areaching to be off.

Silas Schoonmaker is traveling in New YorkState for W. F. Freeman of Albany, N. Y.,and makes his headquarters at Kingston.

Every week Henry Clark visits Haverhill,Mass., in the interests of Hosmer, Codding& Co. He also canvasses a portion of West-ern Massachusetts.

Herman Ternes will start out on a tripthrough Iowa and Southern Dakota about the16th of this month. He represents Tirrell,Church & Co., Boston.

John H. Cross, representing Cross & Ban-croft of Lynn, has just returned from a tour inNew York State, which was productive of agoodly number of orders for his firm.

C. D. Wheelock, E. A. Terhune, ArthurJenkins and W. A. Oakman, representing W.L. Douglas of Brockton, will start on theirWestern trips about the 15th of the month.

The demand for wooden bottom brogansindicates that rural fathers with sparkabledaughters are alive to the fact that winter ap-proacheth, and that the price of fuel is sky-ward.

L. H. Howe is engaged to represent Par-ker, Holmes & Co., as city and suburbansalesman in their rubber department. Mr.Howe was formerly with the Warren Bootand Shoe Co.

C. E. Wyer has gone South for Cox, Gard-ner & Dorr, manufacturers of men's fine shoes,Boston. He also carries a line of women'sand misses' specialties made by Cross &Bancroft, Lynn.

E. M. Stack, dealer in general merchandise,Federalsburg, Maryland, is about to sell outhis business and go on the road as a sales-man, taking in the Maryland peninsula andStates of Delaware and Virginia.

Tom S. Slack represents the P. Cox Mfg.Co. in Iowa, Minnesota, Nebraska and Da-kota. Mr. Slack is a friend of the RECORDER,and we owe him an acknowledgement for acommunication last month,

Fred A. Woodbury weekly visits the re-tailers on the line of the Boston & Mainerailroad between Boston and Portland, andalso looks after the trade in Auburn and Lew-iston, Me., for Parker, Holmes & Co.

Elijah Holbrook is reputed to sell moregoods in Connecticut than any other man whovisits that State. He represents Hosmer,Codding & Co., Boston, and when he getsinto a town it doesn't take the dealer three orlour days to learn that fact.

R. M. Shaw & Co., of Parkersburg, WestVirginia, is a firm of commercial travelers,composed of Mr. Shaw and his brother, form-erly partners in the firm of William Logan& Co., Parkersburg. They represent Ed-munds & Mayo of Boston, and have estab-lished a fine trade in their section for thisenterprising house.

S. W. Jennings has made arrangements torepresent Cross & Bancroft, manufacturers ofwomen's and misses' specialties, Lynn, Mass.,in Illinois, and will begin his trip at once.W. E. Bailey travels for the above firm inOhio, and will soon be upon the ground witha full line of samples.

J. G. Earle, representing Nathan D. Dodge,ladies', misses', and children's fine shoes,Newburyport, Mass., left for the South lastSaturday. H. P. Gleason started for the Pa-cific coast the same day. Mr. Dodge's linehas been enlarged by the addition of a lowerpriced line than his regular goods, and thevariety is now very large and complete.

The Boot and Shoe Travelers' League hasfurnished its new rooms, paid the bills andhas #250 in the treasury. Over $700 wassubscribed by manufacturers and outsidefriends in the trade. Several contributionsof decorative and useful articles were re-ceived. Mr. H. B. Little, of E. P. Dodge &Co., donated a large handsome picture, theRECORDER sent another, Hayes, Gage &Loomis contributed a fine clock, and Presi-dent Page an elegant ice-water service ofsilver. A rooms committee has beenelected, composed of William H. Hunt-ington, George Ahl and W. H. Balkam, whowill have charge of the making of rules andother matters pertaining to their office.

PROMINENT RETAILERS.Men Who Were at the Chicago Convention.

Three weeks ago the RECORDER publishedthe portraits of twenty-three of the leadingretail shoe dealers who took part in the recentconvention held at Chicago. In gatheringtogether this list, we were as careful as possibleto present the names of those dealers whocould be called active. After the publicationof that issue of the RECORDER, one of ourfriends happened to step into this office, andupon running over the list, made the remark,"What is the matter with Samuels?" Weimmediately found that we had left out oneof the shining lights of the National- RetailShoe Dealers' Association, and take greatpleasure in presenting his picture in this issue,which is an excellent one, and a brief sketchof his life.

J. SAMUELS, of Hartford, Conn., was bornin Jersey, England, in March, 1.845. Hecame to. this country with his parents in 1855,

when he was ten years old, and located inCincinnati, where he attended school. After

J. SAMUELS, HARTFORD, CONN.

becoming acquainted with the manners andcustoms of this country, Mr. Samuels becamequite a traveler, having visited the IndianTerritory, Texas and several Southern andWestern states up to the time he was fifteenyears old. He commenced in the shoe busi-ness in Boston in 1873, and two years latersold out and established himself at his presentlocation in the spring of 1875, under the firmname of Hirshberg & Samuels, to which thepresent firm of J. Samuels & Co. succeededin January, 1886. Mr. Samuels conductsthe largest retail store in Hartford, employ-ing six clerks and a boy, and he is ratherproud of the fact that he can cash his bills inten days. He is a smart shrewd buyer, andis a man well liked by his customers in gen-eral. In writing to the RECORDER he says :"I have always been an ardent admirer andsupporter of the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDERand consider that to it is greatly due theexistence of the National Shoe Dealers' As-sociation. I was present enjoying the Asso-ciation at Boston at its first meeting, and thenand there agitated the question of StandardMeasurements. I was at that meeting ap-pointed chairman of the committee on thesame. At the second convention held inPhiladelphia our committee brought in a tab-ulated system of Standard Lasts Measure-ments, and the same has since been adopted."Mr. Samuels is quite prominent in socialaffairs, being a member of the Masons, OddFellows and several other associations.

"Bub," said a patrolman to a boy on Brushstreet, "I am looking for a crazy woman.Have you ?"

"Yes, sir, I know where she is. She's rightin that house."

"Ah ! Then she went in there, eh? ""Yes, sir, and she's my mother.""What?""She asked pa for $4 this morning, and he

said she must be crazy. Please don't call the.wagon and'get all the neighbors out, but takeher out the back way ! "


62 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, i$8 7

PUBLISHED WEEKLY BY THE

RECORDER PUBLISHING COMPANY,

82 and 84 Lincoln Street,

BOSTON, MASS.

PUBLISHERS' NOTICE.Subscription. —The Subscription price of the BOOT AND

SHOE RECORDER is $2.50 a year which includes postage.

Foreign Subscription.—Foreign subscriptions must be pre-paid. The rates are as follows, including cost of postage:Great Britain, $4.50 per year; France, $4.50 per year; Ger-many, $4 50 per year; Australia, $3.50 per year.

Remittances.—Cash must in all cases accompany subscrip-tions, and can be sent by Bank Draft, P. O. Money Order,Registered Letter or Postal Note. Do not send personalchecks.

Foreign Agents.—Messrs. C. S. LARRABBE & Co., Frank-fort-O-M, Germany, are our authorized agents. They willreceive subscriptions, advertisements, etc., at our regularrates.

Advertising Ratei.—Card of advertising rates furnished onapplication. For rates for Wants, For Sale, etc., see Wantpage.

To Correspondents.—We shall be glad at all times to hearfrom correspondents, but in all cases shall require their fullnames, not necessarily for publication, but as a guarantee Ofgood faith.

To Subscribers.—The receipt of the RECORDER after firs1

subscription is equivalent to a receipt for money sent. There/after, bills will be sent upon expiration and papers will not t>ediscontinued unlo6s so ordered.

Newspaper I>eci«ions.—The attention of subscribers iscalled to the U. S. decisions and laws in relation to news-'papers.

x. Any person who takes a paper regularly from the post.office—whether directed to his name or another, or whetherhe has subscribed or not—is responsible for the pay.a. If a person orders his paper discontinued, he must pay allarrearages, or the publisher may continue to send it until pay.ment is made, and collect the whole amount, whether it istaken from the office or not. •-

- 3. The courts have decided that refusing to take newspapersand periodicals from the post-office, or removing and leavingthem uncalled for, is prima facie evidence of intentionalfraud.

About Renewals.—When you renew your subscription to- the RECORDER, be particular to state in your letter that this

is a renewal. This is absolutely necessary in order to giveyou full credit.

Entered at the Post Office, Boston, Mass.,as second-class matter

Address all communications to

The Bcot and Shoe Recorder,82 and 84 Lincoln Street, Boston, Mass.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 5, 1887.

A GREAT OFFER.

% Good to January 1 , 1888.TO NEW SUBSCRIBERS :

From now to Jan. 1, 1888, we make thefollowing special offer. To each new sub-scriber to the RECORDER who will send #3.50we will send the RECORDER one year prepaidand one copy of

GASKELL'S IMPROVED SYSTEMATIC MEASURE BOOK.

This book is without doubt the best thingof the kind ever published. In size it is 10^xi5 inches, and contains 300 pages with fullindex in front parf, Each page is arranged

with lines for the name, street, town and date,and a full list printed on each page for takingmeasurements for custom work. It is com-plete. This book is copyrighted. We offerit for sale to any one who would like a copyfor $1.50.

New Advertisements.PACK.

P. Cox ShoeMTg Co., Rochester, N. Y., New York andChicago Salesrooms >7

P. Cox Shoe M'l'g Co . Rochester, N. Y., The P. Cox FineShoes 18

P Cox Shoe M T g Co., Rochester, N. Y., Ladies', Misses',Children's, Boys'an 1 Youths' Fine Shoes 19

P. Cox ShoeMTg Co., Rochester, N. Y., Boys' and Youths'Machine-sewed Goods 20

P. Cox Shoe MTg Co., Rochester, N. Y., Ladle*' Machine-Sewed Goods 21

P. Cox Shoe MTg Co.. Rochester, N. Y., Ladies' Hand-Turn and Hand Welts 22

P. Cox Shoe MTg Co., Rochester, N. Y.,Misses* Machine-Sewed Goods 23

P. Cox Shoe MTg Co.. Rochester, N. Y.,Children's SpringHeel Machine-Sewed Goods 24

Hatch Patent Crimper Co., Rochester, N. Y., To Jobbersand Retailers 44

Hatch Patent Crimper Co., Rochester, N. Y., A LittleHonest Talk • 48

•Hatch Patent Crimper Co., Rochester, N . Y., AttentionJobbers and Retailers 52

Hatch Patent Crimper Co., Rochester, N. Y.. To Re-tailers and Jobbers 56

Hough & Ford, Rochester, N. Y., Ladies'Fine Shoes . . . 28Curtis & Wheeler, Rochester, N. Y.. Goodyear Welts . . . 30E . P. Reed & Co., Rochester, N. Y., Ladies' Fine. Shoes 32Smith & Herrick, Rochester, N. Y., Ladies' Fine Shoes.. 34Thomas Bolton, Rochester, N. Y , Ladies' Fine Shoes . . . 35Williams & Hoyt, Rochester, N. Y., Boys', Youths' and

Misses' Shoes 38Byrnes, Dug an & Hudson, Rochester, N. Y., Boys' and

Youths' Shoes 40Goodger & Naylor, Rochester, N. Y., Ladies Hand-Sewed

Shoes 42Eldericin, Taylor & Co., Rochester, N. Y , Ladies' Fine

Shoes 46D. Armstrong, Rochester, N . Y., Ladies' Fine Shoes. . . . 50A. C. Eastwood, Rochester, N. Y., Men's, Boys' and

Youths' Fine Shoes , 58Cowles Bros. ' & Co., Rochester, N. Y.. Misses' and Chil-

dren's Shoes 54H. R. Howard, Rochester, N. Y., Ladies' and Misses'

Hand-Sewed Shoes 54Phelan & Yorkey, Rochester, N. Y., Ladies'and Gent's

Fine Shoes 64Van Court & Co., Rochester, N. Y., The American Boot

and fhoe Reports 64C. W. Capello, Rochester, N. Y., Leather Manufacturers

Agency 64C. R. Richards, Rochester, N. Y.f Web Slippers 109Church, Brown & Co , Boston, ShoeManufactuiers 80Goodyear & McKay Sewing Machine Co., Boston, Good-

year Welt and Lock Stitch Machines 60Benjamin F. Dunlap, New York, Bradbury Sewing Ma-

chineStoneham Co-operative Shoe Co., Stoneham, Mass., Regular

line Shoes 78Cross & Bancroft, Lynn, Mass., Announcement 82S. Kennard & Son, Cleveland, Ohio, Felt Shoes and Slip-

pers 60Morrow Shoe MTg Co., New York, Ladies' and Misses'

Fine Shoes 85Croxton, Wood & Co., Philadelphia, Ladies' Kine Shoes.. 8?New York Woven Label Co., New York, Woven Labels.. 109Denzi & Phillips, New York, Foot Mirrors and Glass

Screens 85Vegiard, Langslow & Curry, Rochester, N. Y., Ladies'

and Misses' Fine Shoes 85Crescent Heel Plate MTg Co., Boston, Warning to he

Trade tjCrescent Heel Plate MTg Co., Boston, Warning to the

Trade 85

Wanted:—Salesmen for a Line of Children's Shoes . . . 88Wanted:—Salesmen for Line of Goods te Southern

Trade 88

Wanted: -Position in Wholesale or Retail Shoe House 88Notice to Manufacturers:—C. A. Benedict,Chicago.

Ill 88

WITH THIS NUMBER the RECORDER entersupon its twelfth volume, or the closing halfof its sixth year. Naturally we feel somelittle satisfaction at being able to present thelargest weekly trade paper in the world. Wealways had a fair opinion of ourselves, butwhen the first number of the RECORDER wasissued in April, 1882, as an eight pagemonthly, we really and truly' did not expectto grow quite so fast. But here we are. Wehave good scriptural warrant for not hidingour light under a bushel, and now that wehave progressed from a tallow dip to a blaz-ing electric light mounted on a Bartholdistatue, so to speak, enlightening the trade,of course all bushel covering is out of thequestion. The present number of one hun-dred and twenty pages has never been equalledby a weekly publication, and but rarelyequalled by monthly journals on special oc-casions.

It was not our intention to publish a spe-cially large number on this occasion, thoughwe did set out to make some return to ourRochester, N. Y. friends for the cordial sup-port they have given the RECORDER almostfrom the first number. We did think that onthis occasion we would do something to geteven with them, but instead of this, theyhave fairly swamped us with additional favors,leaving us under more obligations than ever.We take some comfort in the fact that wemade an honest effort to do something wor-thy of the subject and the occasion. It isalso a satisfaction to feel that the RECORDER

was the first to give the trade in Rochesterthe prominence that it was fairly entitled toin the columns of a journal representing theboot and shoe industry.

It cannot be said that the RECORDER istrying to boom Rochester, for the manufac-turers there have fairly won all they havegained by honest work and untiring energyin pushing their business, meetingall demands,and even anticipating the wants of the trade.Without any reflection on members of thetrade in other sections, it may truthfully besaid that taken collectively, the Rochestermanufacturers are men of superior characterand business ability. The advertising pagesof this number are alone an ample proof oftheir liberal and enterprising ideas. We saythis in no spirit of self interest, for the firmswere previously represented in our advertisingcolumns on a liberal scale, and there was nosuggestion of any obligation for anything ad-ditional. They had tested the value of theRECORDER in a business way, and the addi-tion investments simply evidence the whole-souled way in which they push their businessventures.

It is a matter of comment in the trade,that dealings with Rochester manufacturers,



as a rule, are conducted with less friction inthe way of disputes or misunderstandingsthan with any other prominent manufacturingcenter taken as a whole. The Rochestermen act on the sound business maxmim, thatto succeed it is necessary to retain, as well asto gain customers, and that the best way togain or retain is to give value that will appealto the self interest of the customer.

We do not wish to be understood as inti-mating that Rochester manufacturers are theonly ones possessing these qualities, or thatequally as enterprising, capable, and fair deal,ing manufacturers are not to be found inother places. What we do feel called uponto say is that more of this class of men hap-pen to be collected in a small space in Roch-ester than in any other shoe manufacturingdistrict of which we have knowledge.

In the language of Patrick Henry: If thisbe treason (to our friends in other places)make the most of it. It is not so intended.

THOSE WHO DOUBT THE INFLUENCE of tradepapers or the advantages to be derived fromthem will find convincing arguments in theimproved condition of retail stores in thesmaller places through the country. In largecities there is the competition to develop thebest ideas, and the dealer is forced to keepup with the march of improvement; but inthe smaller towns where there is less of thiscompetition, the dealers are liable to stagnateand get into methods of doing business whichinvite new men to come in with new ideasand start opposition. The man who is look-ing for an opening for starting a business likesnothing better than to get into a town whereold-fashioned ideas rule, and all signs of en-terprise are conspicuously lacking. It giveshim a splendid chance to show what he cando, and the contrast is a striking argument inhis favor. The careful reader of the tradepaper has the advantage of all the best ideas,and he can hardly avoid making the improve-ments manifest in his business. If there areany chances for increasing his business he willbe pretty sure to make the most of them, andhe is in no danger of losing customers throughcompetition.

In buying, too, the trade journal is of thegreatest assistance. It keeps the dealersinformed on the lowest prices ruling in regu-lar lines as well as in special lots offered inbargains to close out. Of course the sales-men can ordinarily be depended upon for allinformation concerning styles and prices, butdealers in remote sections, which are not vis-ited so frequently by the salesmen are liableto be overlooked or the salesman's visit maycome too late for them to act as they would ifthe call had been earlier. One complaintthat is occasionally inade by salesmen is, that

they are obliged to meet the prices quotedby other houses in the RECORDER'S advertise-ments ; but this is a point that dealers will notfind fault with.

Dealers are fast learning that the trade paperis a necessity, and a proof of this fact is foundin the remarkable increase in the subscrip-tion list of the RECORDER. We do not at-tempt to claim that the RECORDER is the onlytrade paper published or foolishly try toignore the existance of others. We aim tomake the RECORDER the best, and are per-fectly satisfied to abide the issue of any com-petition. Whatever favor we have won inthe past we will do our best to merit andhold in the future.

WE DID NOT INTEND on this occasion tosay anything that would harrow up the feel-ings of our esteemed contemporaries. Itwill be galling enough for them to simplylook over the RECORDER and see how coldlythey are left by companson. The iron hasevidently entered deep into the soul of ourvenerable contemporary, the Reporter, forlast week it came out with one of its lugu-brious whines because, as it asserts, some can-vasser from some other paper asserted thatit did not circulate largely among the retail-ers. It goes on to say that having been pub-lished for thirty years it "has always beensupported chiefly by the retail dealers." Veryappropriately it prefaces this statement withthe following:

'•We do not think it as strange as we used tothat gentlemen from the rural districts visitinglarge cities fall into traps set for them by buncosteerers and card sharps. We have discoveredthat it is the infirmity of good people to be cred-ulous."

Well, we should say it had. It has waxedfat on this credulity for lo these thirty years.But when it comes to claiming a circulationin the retail trade it is too much for evenrural incredulity. In New York city whereit is best known it has exactly two smallcards from shoe manufacturers. Altogetherit has cards from twenty-seven shoe manu-facturing firms, less than one a year for itsthirty years existence. Evidently the shoemanufacturers are not good, for they are notcredulous. The RECORDER, on the contrary,in its last issue had a list of fifty-two shoemanufacturers and nineteen jobbers, and isonly in its sixth year. Now, if the Reporterhas a large retail circulation, why do notshoe manufacturers patronize it, and why dothey after a trial drop it like a hot brick ?Simply because even good people after oneexperience with bunco steerers are not easilycaught again.

It is a characteristic of greedy monopoliststo fight desperately against competition andto piously warn the plundered victims againstthe wickedness of competitors. The Re-

porter has been the comorant of the tradefor the thirty years of its existence. Itsrates have always been extortionate, and ithas never attempted to make adequate returnfor the support it has received. Whatever ithas done has been in the line of leather andhides with occasionally some reference to theshoe manufacturing branch, but it is onlywithin the past six months that it has recog-nized the existence of retailers by publishingmatter designed to interest them. Thesefacts are well known to the trade, and hencethe utter absurdity of the statement that it"has always been supported principally bythe retail dealers." This is the combinationof Pecksniff and Chadband which poses asthe impersonation of honesty to warn thetrade against other journals, and at the sameput out such a lie about its circulation. Bah !

THE ALBANY, N. Y., MANUFACTURERS verynaturally resent the wholesale abuse heapedupon them by the correspondence signedJohn Swinton, in last week's RECORDER. Welike to give the largest liberty to correspond-ents, and the statements made were so wildlyexaggerated that they served as their ownantidote as far as any injury to credit wasconcerned. It would take a good deal morethan wild talk like that to have any effect onthe standing of the Albany manufacturers.

THE RELIGIOUS EDITOR of the RECORDER isunder obligations to Mr. James L. Hatch andRochester friends for a large package oftracts and sound religious reading, includingSunday-school books and temperance litera-ture. The editor appreciates the generousdonation because he knows that it was highlyprized by the senders. He is now industri-ously studying the same as a preparation forhis next visit to Rochester.

OUR THIRD PRIZE COMPETITION.

Repairing Boots and Shoes—A ValuableFirst Prize.

We have decided to offer three prizes foressays on "Repairing Boots and Shoes," andarticles can be sent it at any time. As thefirst prize we have decided to offer the Solid-ity Repairing Jack and Lasts; an outfit com-prising the celebrated iron jack, hinged andjointed, for repairing standing or sitting, to-gether with 40 lasts for repairing any boot orshoe from an infant's up. The fame of thesecelebrated outfits is almost world-wide, andthey are unquestionably the most completeand ingenious yet made. The cost of one ofthese outfits is $25, and the prize is one worthstriving for. The second and third prizeswill be announced later. We hope that allretailers of boots and shoes who are interest-ed in the matter of repairing will contributeto this series. The subject is one capable ofelaboration, and altogether a very importantone in its bearings on the retail trade. It isto be hoped that we shall have many andprompt responses to this invitation. Thecompetition is only open to retailers of bootsand shoes, and all contributors are requested•to give name and address when sending intheir essays, though if desired a nom-de-plume may be used for publication.



JAMES H. PHELAN, WILLIAM C. YORKEY.

PIILIN 1 Illllkll117-119 Mill St., Roct tr , N. Y.

Wholesale Manufacturers of Ladies' and Gents

HAND AND MACHINE SEWED SHOES.LADIES' McKAY SEWED. GENT'S MACHINE SEWED,

LADIES' HAND TURNED, GENT'S HAND SEWED,

INFANT'S TURNED CACZS.

MEN'S HAND SEWED AND LADIES' HANDTURNED A SPECIAITY.

Dealers will do well by send-to us for Sample Pairs

and Prices.

C. W. CAPELLO,

19-21 Mumford and 95 Mill Street,

AGENT

AUGUSTUS B. MARTIN & CO., Lynn, Mass., Kid, Goat andMorocco, in all their varieties.

HJLREY B. BEARD'S "Wax Calfskins and Zips.

E. R. JOHNSON & CO., Best Cotton Shoe Threads, 500, 7200,9600 and 12000 Yard Reels, Soft and Silk Finish, in any Color.

"W. & J. KNOX'S Linen Threads for Shoe Manufacturers.

ESTABLISHED 1876.

THE AMERICAN

Shoe and Leather Trade Association,H. VAN COURT & CO , Managers,

404 Arch Street,PHILADELPHIA.

29 High Street,BOSTON.

335 Broadway, 19 and 21 Mumford Street,NEW YORK. ' ROCHESTER.

Cor. 3d and Walnut Streets, 94 La Salle Street,CINCINNATI. CHICAGO.

Cor. Calvert and German Streets, BALTIMORE.

TTS "BOOK OF RATINGS," embraces the Names, Credit, Capital1 and Local Address of the Wholesale, and Commission Dealersin Leather and Morocco; Wholesale Manufacturers of, and RetailDealers in Boots and Shoes; Harness Manufacturers and Dealers;Tanners, Dealers in Findings, etc., of the United States.

It reports only one line of trade, it is carefully revised, and itsratings are as conservative and reliable as a reference book can bemade. It takes the place of other agency books, saves time in look,ing up names for purpose of addressing circulars as it contains acomplete list of the trade in a condensed form.

As we give our exclusive attention to this one line of trade, itmust of necessity be more thorough than books which contain alltrades.

Subscribers receive the " SEMI-WEEKLY RECORD," containingChanges, Failures and other information of interest to the Tradeand are also furnished with the latest and fullest detailed reportsupon application,

In connection with our Large Line of L a d i e s 'and Misses' Fine Shoes, we

are making the

ANL] CHEAPEST!^FELT SHOE and SLIPPER in the Market.

OLD LADIES' BAL. and BUSKINS.

MEN'S, LADIES', MISSES' & CHfLDS' SLIPPERSSolid Leather Counters, Wedge Heels, Steel Shanks, Globe Insoles

and Hair Felt Soles.

PERFECTLY NOISELESSGood Fitters and can be retailed for what other Felt Coods cost you.

*@- These Goods kept in Stock. Orders filled the same day asreceived. Samples and Prices sent on application. When you write,mention the RECORDER.

S. KENNARD & SONS,121,123,125 Bank Street,

CLEVELAND, - OHIO



USINES

FAILURES.

Detroit, Mich.—The Boston and other creditors of J. V. Lisee& Co., boot and shoe dealers, have received from the firmthe following statement of its affair : ''Finding ourselvesfinancially embarrassed beyond hope ol lecovery, we, onthe 19th of September, made an assignment for the benefit ofour creditors to A. F. Wilcox. Our entire assets for distri-bution inventory at cost price, including exemptions, $43,-172.57, appraised value, $40,265.50; goods out on approval,$53.50. appraised value, $30; bills receivable at face value,$4,335.39, appraised value, $3000: total nominal assets,$47,561.46, appraised value, $43,295-50. Our secured in-debtedness is $20,415.82; our unsecured indebtedness is$42,715.19; total indebtedness, $63,a9w»- After as carefulan investigation as we have been able to make at this time,we believe we could pay the secured creditors 75 per cent,and the unsecured creditors 40 per cent, of their claims andcontinue in business, if this would be acceptable to all. We,therefore, make this offer, the unsecured creditors to be paidin notes at three, six and nine months, indorsed to their sat-isfaction. This proposition is made at the suggestion of sev-eral of our heaviest unsecured creditors, who have been hereand examined our affairs, among whom we mention G -A.Mitchell of Laird, Schober & Mitchell, Philadelphia, andMr. Peters of Wright & Peters, Rochester, N. Y."

Firms in Boston and its immediate vicinity are creditors to theamount ot $10,000 or $12,000 in the aggregate. Ihere issome question as to the validity of the mortgages, etc., heldby the secured creditors, and this fact explains the offer ofcompromise made to them, it being understood that theywould rather take a percentage of their claims than to gointo litigation to defend their mortgages, etc.

Louisville, Ky.—An attempt was made to have a meeting inBoston last Saturday at the Shoe and Leather Exchange, ofthe creditors of J. H. Quast, boot and shoe dealer, Louisvilleand Frankfort, Ky., but James H. Wheeler and Adin V.Chipman being the only creditors who showed interest enoughto be present, nothing was done. A. few days ago iMr.Wheeler wrote to P. A.Gaertner, the assignee, for a paperembodying Mr. Quast's offer, with a view to submitting it tothe creditors individually or at a meeting, and seeing if theywould accept the offer. To this communication Mr. Gaert-ner replied by sending the composition paper, but omitted tosend also a list of the creditors, so that, unless the paper issubmitted to the creditors at a meeting, they will, in case theywish to sign it, have to call upon Mr. Wheeler, he being un-able to present it to them individually front the fact that,having no list of them, he does not know who or where theyare. The offer which Mr. Quast makes is to pay either 50cents cash o.n a dollar or 40 cents cash and 20 cents additionalin his uniodorsed note running a year. Mr. Gaertner saidthat he would come to Boston and meet the creditors nextSaturday should they desire him to do so.

New Britain, Conn.—Chas. Seymour, shoe dealer, is reported

assigned.Lynn, Mass.—Wm. A. Chase, shoe manufacturer, is reported

offering 10 cents on the dollar.Dayton, Ohio—Gress & Metcalf, shoe dealers, reported as-

signed.Phillipsburg, Pa.—Mary L. Smith, shoe dealer, stock reported

in the hands of sheriff.Halifax, N. S.—E. Borcham, shoe dealer, reported stock ad-

vertised to be sold by sheriff.Yarmouth, N. S.—R. O. Kelly, shoe dealer, reported as-

signed.Montreal, Can.—Arsene Nevu, shoe dealer, reported as-

signed.

CHANGES.LOB Gatos, Cal.—Clegern & Hagenbaugh, shoe dealers, sold

out.San Francisco, Cal.—Himlung Quong, shoe dealer, sold

out.Hammond, Ind.—Michael Reich, shoe dealers, selling out.Rochester, Ind.—Jesse Shields, shoe dealer, closing out.Greenfield, Iowa—J. D. Williams, shoe dealer, sold out.Guthrie Centre, Iowa—D. F. Shocklin, shoe dealer, sold

Pill.

Olathe, Kas.—J. F. Meyer, shoe dealer, removed to Eureka.Brockton, Mass.—Parker & James, shoe manufacturers, dis-

solved.Campello, Mass.—Mitchell, Fales & Co., shoe manufacturers,

dissolved.Haverhill,Mass. —J. B. Swttt's Sons, shoe manufacturers, dis-

solved.Lynn, Mass.—W. A. Dole & Whittredge, shoe manufacturers,

dissolved.Lewis & Smith, shoe manufacturers, dissolved.Smith & Davies, shoe manufacturers, dissolved.

Provincetown, Mass.—Provincetown Boot & Shoe Co., AtkinsNickerson, Manager, vice C. W. Hunt.

Springfield, Mass —J. Strong, shoe deiler, sold out.Northfield, Minn.—E. Lockwood, shoe dealer, closing out

business.Medina, N. Y,—Mary A. Johnson (Mrs. J. A.) shoe dealer,

sold out.Pawtucket, R. I.—Ellis & Read, shoe dealers, sold out.Seattle, W. Ty.—P. J. Lair & Co., shoe dealers,dissolved.Barrie, Can.—J. Clayton (est. of) shoe dealer, stock advertised

to be sold at auction.ITEMS OF RECORD.

San Francisco, Cal.—Wm. J. Ahern, shoe dealer, reportedmortgage for $450 discharged.

Joliet, 111.—Catherine Paesold, shoe dealer, reported closed onexecution of $1,500.

Swan, Iowa—A. L. Rutt, shoe dealer, reported chattel mort-gage for $375.

Haverhill, Mass.—Perley A. Stone, shoe manufacturer, specialcapital $12,000 renewed to Sept. 7, 1890.

Detroit, Mich.—R. O. Allen & Co., shoe dealers, reportedchattel mortgage for $2,198 renewed.

Marshall, Mich.—Henry Kingman & Son, shoe dealers, re-ported chattel mortgage for $2,400.

Brooklyn, N. Y.—Ann Whitr, shoe manufacturer, reportedjudgment for $198.

Cincinnati, Ohio—J. & J. Grossman, tanners, reported realtymortgage for $7,200.Frank Fox, shoe dealer, repcrted chattel mortgage for $300refiled.

Columbus, Ohio—McMorrow & Miller, shoe factory, M.McMorrcw reported realty mortgage for $821.

Springfield, O.—Rouse & Parsons, shoe dealers, reported chat-tel mortgages aggregating $14,429.

Elizabethtown, Pa.—George F. Wagner, shoe dealer, reportedjudgment for $2,500.

Lancaster, Pa.—John H. Hoehn, shoe dealer, reported judg-ment for $900.

Mahanoy City, Pa.—Benedict Otterhein, shoe dealer, reportedjudgment for $628.

Spokane Falls, Washington Ty.—J. B. Blalock, shoe dealerj

reported conveyed realty for $10,000.

FIRES.

Marysville, Cal.—J. Bowen, shoe dealer, burnt out.Sanford, Fla.—Solomon Adler & Co., shoe dealers, burnt

out.M. S. Brown, shoe dealer, burnt out.S. Deutsch, shoe dealer, burnt out.

Ironwood, Mich.—Abram Lieberthal, shoe dealer, burnt out.Ishpeming, Mich.—G. J. Fisher, shoe dealer, burnt out.West Winfield, N. Y.—Beckwith & Co., tanners, burnt out.

OBITUARY.Boston, Mass.—Lane, Pierce & Co., leather manufacturers,

Andrew Pierce deceased.Nashville, Tenn.—Adams, Throne & Co., shoe dealers, W P.

Rutland deceased.

U. S. ARMY LEGGIN.

The use of overgaiters and leggins is hardlyas well understood in this country as in Eu-rope, but they are gaining in favor as the ad-vantages are better appreciated, and themanufacture of leggins is growing corres-pondingly in importance. One of the firstto engage in this branch of industry in a reg-ular way was Mr. Wm. H. Wiley, of Hartford,Conn. In 1876 he started in a very modestway with one girl and a very limited spaceNow Mr. Wiley with his son, under the firmstyle of Wm. H. Wiley & Son, have 40 to 45employes steadily at work making three lineof overgaiters and leggins, which are madein all styles and for all purposes, from leathercloth and canvas.. Last March, Messrs

Wiley & Son received an order from theUnited States Navy Department for 7,000anvas leggins. This order was received

from a sample submitted by Mr. Wiley, whichproved highly satisfactory to the officers.Subsequently Mr. Wiley received a requestfrom the War Department to forward a sam-ple of leggins for arjatiy use. This was pre-pared with a new style of fastening, and sopleased the head of the department that itwas accepted as the Regulation standard forcolor, quality, style, make and fastening, onwhich advertisements for bids for regular sup-ply are to be based. Messrs. Wiley & Sonin addition received an order for 5,000 leg-gins and the assurance that the same stylewould be wanted for the entire army.

The cut given herewith shows the shape ofthe leggin and style of the fastening. It willbe noticed that the fastening is a single cordor lacing, which passes through large eyeletholes or grummets, and the loops are caughton lacing hooks. This gives a simple fasten-ing adjustable to the leg of the wearer, withthe great advantage that it can be so easilyput on or removed by throwing the loops on

or off the lacing hooks. For soldiers, obligedto turn out in a hurry, this is one of the bestfeatures of the fastening. This style of fas-tening, which is a design of Mr. Wiley's, isadmirably adapted for long riding leggins asit gives a comfortable adjustment to the leg.The army color is light brown.

Messrs. Wiley & Son have also furnishedleggins for the militia regiments in Connecti-cut and New York State, and their work inthese lines is highly commended.

In addition to the leggins and regular linesof overgaiters, Messrs. Wiley & Sons make aspecialty of heelers or stocking-heel protec-tors, cut whole, of which they are the origi-nal makers. In all their work they makequality the essential feature, and nothing isallowed to be slighted in the smallest detailTheir trade has steadily grown, aided byjudicious advertising, to very large propor-tions, and at present they have difficulty infilling orders as promptly as they could wish.During the past eleven years, they have en-larged their establishment four times, andthey still want more room, which they intendto secure before another season,


6 6 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER tOctobet 5, r88?

OTJJR

LADIES'

WAUKENPHAST!Kid Foxed, Dongola Top, Hand

Sewed, A to D,

—$3.25!™XTot Hideous, XTot Clumsy, Hot Uncomfortable,

BUT

Elegant in Shape. Flexible in Mate, Durable, Sensible, Easy.They all want it when they see it, and we can supply

from stock in our

Boston Store, 200 & 202 CongressS treet.

SAMPLE PAIRS ON APPLICATION.

J. & T. COUSINS,8L.oeina!k:ers,

Grand and Centre Sts. NEW YORK.



Mr. F. F. Emery and Jwife passed part ofSeptember in Switzerland.

Thfe new shoe factory at Richmond, Me.,has started up with good orders anc} everyindication of success.

H Orrin A. Paul, late foreman of the stitchingroom at S. Gardner Jones' factory in Brockton,has resigned to enter business on his own ac-count.

Boot and shoe prospects in Milford, Mass.,never looked better. There is a practicalsurety of a long and steady run in all theshops.

A suitable monument will soon be erectedover the grave at Natick, Mass., of VicePresident Henry Wilson, who in his earlydays was a shoemaker.

H. B. Reed & Co., successors to Daniel S.Howard, the Brockton shoe manufacturer,are making extensive alterations and improve-ments in the office accomodations at theirshoe factory on Montello street.

, Mr. John Edmunds, of the firm of Ed-munds & Mayo, Boston, has returned fromhis European trip which he undertook for thebenefit of his health. He is feeling muchimproved by his vacation.

The rebuilding of the shoe factory for theWolfeborough Construction Company hasbeen awarded to Alex. ]. McDonald ofWolfeborough, N. H., who agrees to have thebuilding completed Dec, 1, 1887.

Admiral R.B. Evans, president of the Amer-ican Rubber Company, accompanied theyachts Volunteer and Thistle in the two greatraces last week on his steam yacht, DayDream. He will return to Boston the latterpart of this week.

Col. Theodore A. Dodge of the TapleyMachine Company arrived home on the Cat-alonia last week after a very enjoyable trip.He was just in time to preside at the firstdinner for the season of the Papyrus Club, ofwhich he is president.

Among the veterans of the Ancient andHonorable Artillery Company who celebratedtheir fall field day on Monday, we were gladto see Mr. Thomas Emerson of Wakefield,who always enjoys those trips as much asthe youngest member of Ihe corps.

The shoe manufacturing firms of J^0*. In-galls & Son, and Creighton Bros., Lynn, willoccupy the Manning block on State street assoon as it is completed. It is understoodthat a country firm will then move into thefactory now occupied by the Creightons.

The Star Heel Plates made by Sacks &Richmond, Newark, N. J., are selling veryrapidly. Their patent last made of iron intwo pieces has achieved a large degree ofpoputtty, and the firm find it difficult tok ep up with their orders on these goods.

An opportunity offers this week for retailersto purchase goods made by the East NewYork Shoe Co. at unusually low prices. Hos-mer, Codding & Co., 133 Federal street, Bos-ton, have secured a large lot of various kindswhich they are making a drive on. See theiradvertisement.

Martin V. B. Paige for several years gen-eral superintendent of the Stanley MTg. Co.'sextensive machine shops, at Lawrence, Mass.,was presented with a sixty dollar gold headedcane by the employes under his charge.Mr. Paige has resigned his position, and hasremoved to his future homein Plymouth, N. H.

The thirteen cutters employed at D. A.Donovan & Co.'s shoe factory on Broadstreet, struck Thursday morning and left thefactory, and a banner boy now occupies aposition near the shop, warning all union cut-ters to keep away until the trouble has beensettled. The trouble is over the employmentof apprentices, who, it is claimed, are put onregular men's work.

Mr. Wm. P. Whittier, Jr., Biddeford, Me.,whose advertisement appears on page 103of this issue, says that his trade and hisChampion Steel Heel Plates is increasing.He has just made a cut in prices and addednew machinery, and he is now ready to com-pete with any .of his competitors. Findingand jobbing trade will do well to write Mr.Whittier and get his prices.

Parker & Peakes, boot and shoe manufact-urers at Bangor, Me., will occupy their newfactory this week. This new building is 113X40 feet, four stories with brick basement,and is fitted with a 40 h. p. Atlas engine and90 h. p. boiler. All the machinery, etc., .ofthe manufactory is admirably suited to first-class work, making it in every respect a com-plete establishment for the business of bootand shoe manufacture.

E. M. Cole, who has been, for about sixyears, connected with the 'boot and shoemanufacturing concern of M. C. Dizer & Co.of South Weymouth, has accepted, and nowholds, the position of general superintendentof Thomas White's boot and shoe factory ofBrockton. Messrs. White & Co. are fortunatein securing the services of so experienced aman. He brings with him the good wishesof. many of his former workmen.

Mr. Paul O. Bauer of Peoria, 111., (firm ofBauer & Trefzger, retail shoe dealers) writesus that he has been very busy the past weekin looking after the details connected withthe making of an elaborate alligator travelingbag, and consequently was unable to send inhis communication; the first of a series whichMr. Bauer has promised to write for the-RE-CORDER. R. G. Salomon of Newark, N. J.,is making the bag, and we hope the first useto which it is put will be as the travelingcompanion of its owner upon a trip to Boston.

Alva B. Colburn, treasurer and secretary oflocal assembly 1331, K. of L., at Stoughton,Mass., last week, was arrested for larceny offunds belonging to that assembly and broughtbefore Trial Justice Marden Saturday after-noon and held for trial in $300 bonds, Adon-irum Brown furnishing bail. The amountthat it is alleged he has taken is from #200 to#300. It is understood that the officers ofthe assembly entered the complaint. Mr.

Colburn refused to make any statement.The funds which it is alleged he has takenhave been missing since last January.

Mr. E. L. Wires, manager of the Clinching;Screw Company, has sold that part of thecompany's business relating to headed naildriving machinery, for a large sum, to theMcKay company of Boston. The sale hasbeen negotiating for six months, and was theoutcome of suits instituted against the McKay-company by the Clinching Screw Company.The latter company retains its screw-makingbusiness as heretofore, and also the control!of its automatic nail-making and driving ma-chines. Considerably more than #ioo,oooiwas the amount received.

There is no one thing that will improve ashoe store so much as the introduction ofnew and useful improvements, as they areoffered the trade. We do not know of a morebeautiful shoe store ornament than the glass,foot mirrors and glass screens, made by Den-zi & Phillips, 24 Dey street, New York, whose-advertisement appears in this issue of the RE-CORDER. They are useful as well. The foot,mirror will actually help the dealer sell his.shoes; while the screen makes a handsomeadvertisement, as well as an ornament. Weadvise our readers to write for circulars.

If any retail shoe dealer is looking for aman's shoe that will sell, and make for hima good round profit, we refer him to Irvin &Snow's advertisement this week. We canaffirm that v. is not often that the trade hasso good an opportunity to buy a real bargainas in the case of this shoe. It is the productof long and close calculation, and how it canbe sold for $2 we are unable to see. It is.certainly a very handsome, well made, ser-viceable appearing shoe, with good stock init, and nothing cheap about its looks. Thefirm state that the 'first lot was sold before ithad reached the store.

Our Chicago conptemporary feels some-what hurt by our reference to the need for agood leather journal, as instanced by thecollapse of the Tanners, Leather and HideDealers' Association. It calls the RECORDERconceited, and says all that would be requiredfor the RECORDER to fill the field as an organof the leather trade would be the addition offour pages to our regular size. This is a well-deserved and complimentary tribute to thevalue of the RECORDER pages, but really wethink the leather trade is entitled to far moreconsideration. If we decide to do anythingin this line it will be a separate publicationof not less than forty good solid pages ofmatter that will interest the trade. By theway, as the Review is not entirely satisfiedwith the numbering of the RECORDER pages,how will this number do for a change ?

WARNING.We are the absolute owners of all the original

Letters Patent on a Machine for attaching HeelPlates to Rubber Shoes, and on LASTS o-r DIES,for starting and bending the prongs or nails ofthe platn. W« shall PROMPTLY bring suit againstANY ONE using ANY infringement of our LettersPatent in the United States, Canada or England.Any party .using our Machine will confer a spec-ial favor by reporting to us ON SHORT NOTICEany infringements on our Letters Patent that arebeing used.

CRESCENT HEEL PLATE MFG. CO.,J.05 & 111 Summer St., Boston, Mass.


68 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. (.October 5, i8»7

f

^


October 5, 1887JTHE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 69

Officers of the Retail Dealers' National Asso-ciation.

President,—G. G. Pierce, Chicago, 111.Secretary,—S. I. Arkush, New York.Treasurer,—F. H. Tasker, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Vice-Presidents:New York, D. T. Lynch, Brooklyn.Massachusetts, J. K. Brown, Worcester.Connecticut, J. Samuels, Hartford.Pennsylvania, J. F. Streicher, West Newton.Ohio, F. A. Maybery, Tiffin.Michigan, O. N. Clement, Cheboygan.Indiana, Brandon Lewis, Lafayette.Illinois, I. B. Arnold, Champaign.Iowa, C. B. Weeks, Cedar Rapids.Wisconsin, Frank Lyman, Kenosha.Texas, J. W. H. Vanort, Corsicana.Louisiana, R. F. W. Bachman, New Orleans.Kansas, A. M. Strauss, Paola.Nebraska, L. J. Early, Arapahoe.Kentucky, A. B. Lancaster, Lexington.

MR. MANSFIELD EXPLAINS WHY VOTING IS SLOW

IN AWARDING THE PRIZES FOR THE ES-

SAYS ON ADVERTISING—A WORD ABOUT

SPECIALTY SHOES.

To the Editor of the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER:

BOSTON, Mass., Sept. 26,1887.—In August31 issue you print list of twenty-four contest-ants for prizes for articles on "Advertis'uig inRelation to the Retail Shoe Trade." Muchprofit has accrued to your subscribers fromthese articles, and as you state your r-eadersshould be prompt in sending in their votes.You issue several other appeals in subsequentissues complaining of the votes coming in so-slow. Probably there are many others likemyself regarding this matter and refrain fromvoting because of their inability to vote in-telligently on twenty-four articles without acareful review of the whole. T'ne publicationhas necessarily been drawn cmt through solong a period of time that much injusticewould be done unless a review was made,and few of us have the file complete. Thosewho have probably have not the time to re-view so much matter. Therefore I doubt ifthe vote will be a very full one, and I do notconsider your readers, though interested inthe reading of articles, can be censured fornot voting unless they could do it intelligently.We appreciate articles and all contributionswhich tend to enlighten us, but think for nextseries a new method of award ing prizes wouldbe preferable and probably more successful.The vote on first series was not very gratify-ing. Could' some uninterested party reviewthe whole and award the prize I believe itwould be more satisfactory.

Respectfully,

A. MANSFIELD.

P. S. If correspondent calling for discus-sionregarding specialty shoes or shoes markedwith maker's name and selling price on shoes,

will refer to articles on that subject publishedby RECORDER May and June 1885 he wouldsee both sides of the quesiion—yet perhapsfurther discussion might be desirable—froma retailers standpoint I argue that it is not de-sirable for me to advertise a manufacturer'sname, or give his warrant to my customers.My own is better, and if I sell specialty shoesI want my own name on them.

CRIS PIN IN ENGLAND SOME NOTES OF HIS

OBSERVATIONS—CONTRASTS WITH AMERI-

CAN METHODS AND IDEAS—ROOM FOR

GREAT IMPROVEMENT IN THE

ENGLISH FACTORIES AND

RETAIL STORES.

To the Editor o fthe BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER:

PATTERSON, N. J., Oct 3, 1887.—After anabsence of some weeks, I am again given thepleasure of reading the pages of the RECORDER,and to be a receiver and not at times a giveris mean indeed. This idea in view gave memore incentive to observe while I have beentraveling. It is an old adage that we travelEast in search of light or knowledge, but thisdoes not always follow, for knowledge is asoften found in the West. However, as I haverecently paid a visit to the home of mychildhood after an absence of forty years inin the States it was but reasonable to sup-pose that everything which pertained to mytrade, I should closely observe. For here weare constantly upon the watch for any ideasthat will help us to accomplish moreand better work, in less time or at lesscost. England, all must admit, is the mostenergetic as well as the most active nation ofEurope. Holding the position of the'highestempire the world has ever seen, whose shipsare upon every sea, and whose handicraft isfound in every land, it is justice that weshould render England our highest admira-tion and good will as a nation and people.But it is not in a political or social point ofview ithat I wish to consider the subject, butin her shoe shops and shoe stores.

My first stopping place was at Mortlake,roear London, here I received a lasting andgood impression of the generosity and goodwall of some of the leading men of our craft.Ntear the railroad station is a very handsomeIfcrailding and very ornamental with a numberof suites of rooms. Upon the central partLO£ iflae large building, a tablet appears withMs inscription upon it: "Erected by theMaster Shoemakers for Aged and InfirmCraftsmen." Such an institution reflectshonor upon our craft, and commands respectfrom others. But this good impression wassoon changed by observing upon a sign inlaige letters -"Boot and Shoe Factory." Now,I thought, I will be able to see something thatwill interest me, and perhaps get an idea ortwo. So I entered into the building, andinto conversation with the solitary and onlyperson in the factory. "I see you have aboot and shoe factory," I said. "I do alittle," he replied. That was soon very evi-

. dent, for I saw only a Bradbury sewing ma-chine, which was the only thing pertaining toa factory in any sense. The old style of lap-si '.one was still there, like the ghosts of long,g. one days, still clinging to this half developedm .echanic of modern times. For the pon-d ;rous signs and the Bradbury sewing ma-

chine, tell me that new ideas had found atleast a lodgment hereabouts.

In a near-by town I saw a large sign em-blazoned with these words upon it! "GreatDepot for Boots and Shoes." I was well-prepared by this time to find little thingsin very large cases, so I refrained from en-tering this great and ponderous establishment,whose only entrance was by a common battondoor, with a show window.only three by five.The greatest thing I saw was the cheek ofsuch men who could put out such signs. Itwas appalling in the extreme. In JLondon,as well as in other cities I visited, such signsas, "Your shoes mended while you wait,"were very frequent, and suggested promptnesssuch as many American shoe men mightprofit by. But in every shoe shop I enteredor looked into, there was that same dark,dirty look, so familiar to old shoe men. Withone more sample of such shoe factories, I willstop. This was in the city of Liverpool.The outside appearance was good. Therewere two large windows with central door,and over all a large sign at least twenty feetlong, and wide in proportion, with this uponit: "Central Boot and Shoe Factory." Havingpassed it before while upon the train, I re-solved to pay more respect to such an estab-lishment, that I might be better able to in-spect and to see for myself what constituteda shoe factory in Liverpool; but it was nobetter than the other places named, and tosum up my impressions, I would not give tendollars for all it contained, stock, tools andbenches.

In these so-called factories, as well as inthose of smaller and less pretentious shoeshops, there is little or no advance over whatexisted forty years ago. In the town of Ux-bridge I put the question to one who learnthis trade at the same time and place as my-self. "What is there new with you in theshoe making trade?"

He said, "O, we do^not use the lapstonehere now."

"Well what do you use, the roller?""O, no, we use a lap iron."The rolling machine he knew nothing of.

The old lapstone can be found in use in everyvillage, and the many improved tools of lateryears in use with Americans are yet unknownto the majority of English shoemakers. Itwill be observed that I am not writing of reg-ular shoe manufactories, only those of smallerpretension. The prices charged for work areabout the same figures as were charged fortyyears ago. Men's shoes soled and heeled,half a crown, and women's shoes soled andheeled, one shilling and eightpence. Theseprices were for nailed work, while years agoonly sewed work was done. The nailed orriveted shoe is now in most general use amongthe middle class and working people, and asa rule are made from very heavy stock, bothsoles and uppers. Such heavy work wouldbe very slow of sale with us, except in coun-try' districts. The sharp round toe is in gen-eral use. There is not that variety of toethat is found with us. The cap is in generaluse. It is seldom a shoe is seen without atoe cap, patent leather being most used forlight work for cap. There is no doubt butfine work is made in England, but the greatbulk of English shoes are made from veryheavy material. A large amount of Labor is



The constant demand made by a large class of consumers for a RubberBoot that would stand more severe usage than the best Boot of former years,has induced us to put before the Trade this Season a Boot which we thinkwill meet every requirement of those who subject Boots to unusual wearSuch a Boot is to be found in the New

WOONSOCKET PURE BUM DUCK BOOT!This Boot is made with unusual care, of the very best material obtain-

able, has double-thick ball, and patent Heel Protectors, and is in every respectthe King of Duck Boots. A careful inspection will convince the most skeptical. Order Sample Cases from your Dealer.

WOONSOCKET RUBBER CO.,35 XTorth Main St., Providence, H. Z.

Bedford & Kingston Streets, BOSTON, MASS. 72 Reade Street, NEW YORK.


October 5, 1887] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 71expended upon their work, yet withal, thereis a lack of finish, such as is seen upon Amer-ican shoes. Even where the same sort ofmaterial is used, it will 'be finished in heavierstyle than with us.

I cannot leave the subject without a fewwords about their stores. The difference inthe mode and manner of keeping and exhib-iting their shoes was so very different that noone could fail to see the difference in the twosystems. Americans, as a rule, have adoptedthe single carton as the best manner of keep-ing and preserving the shoe clean and fresh,as well as to give their stores a clean lightairy appearance, never overcrowding theirshow windows. But there every point waschanged, and all shoes were exposed to view.Laid upon shelves, shoe upon shoe, like bricksupon a wall, and where it was not possible tolay shoes they were hung upon nails, eventhe door-posts, as a general thing, were hungwith shoes. The windows were even worse,for the only point seemed to be to place asmany shoes as it was possible into them,until the pile reached up to the top of thewindow, and upon each pair a price tag.The result of all this was to give the storea cave like aspect, and a very disagreeableodor was perceptable as you passed thestore from the oil and feather. This appearedto be the rule of conducting shoe stores inEngland, Wales and Scotland, and from whichI did not see but three or four exceptions.

In a number of places I saw cartons in useupon shelves, supposing them to be usedto keep fine shoes in, but on inquiry foundthey were only kept for the purpose of send-ing shoes home in to. the better class of cus-tomers.

To sum up in a few words the conclusionsforced upon me by my observations made insome of the principal cities were, that theEnglish shoemaker and shoe store keeperhave a great deal to learn and unlearn beforethey can arrive at the standard adopted byAmerican shoemen. Cius PIN.

MR. MOULTON REPLIES TO A CRITICISM AND EX-

PRESSES SOME PRETTY SOUND VIEWS WHICH

SHOULD, BUT DO NOT, GOVERN THE

LaBOR UNIONS.

To the Editor of the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER :

HAVERHILL, Mass., Sept. 26, 1887.—I didnot see the article in the RECORDER fromFrank Brown until yesterday, when one ofyour subscribers handed the article to me,and made the remark; "Here is a piecethat knocks you out, Moulton." Truly theonly thing that "knocks me out" in any wayis to think a gentleman possessing such aprominent name as Brown could have writtenso much in so small a space and have ourviews so nearly alike. So far as a man's en-tering into a contract is concerned, and thenbreaking the contract afterwards, I condemnthe man who would do such an act ;so far we agree. But I think Mr. Brown iscertainly premature in his fanatical conclu-sions, when he states:

When the time conies that a manufacturer, nomatter who he may be, can't run his factory tohis liking, without outside interference, it is thentime for that man to shut up shop.

Now, instead of referring my friend Brownto some "labor agitator's speech," I would

most respectfully ask him to read the NorthAmerican Review. Here is what a learnedgentlemen has to say on the point raised byMr. Brown. Judge T. M. Cooley, Justice ofthe Supreme Court of the State of Michigan,says :

''If a man says, 'My business is my own, to bemanaged as I please,' we must assent that this ishis legal right. But there is a sense in whichthe business cannot be exclusively his own; andany one who thoughtfully regards all sides of theproblems that concern him will not overlookthis. While any particular establishment belongsto the proprietors, yet so long as labor and capi-tal are equally essential, any particular business,considered in the aggregate, is as much that ofthose who furnish the money. If laborers with-draw from it, it comes to an end as certainly aswhen the proprietor closes his door.

Now, I concede the right to every em-ployer to hire and discharge whom he sees fitand when he sees fit for incompetency. butnot because the person may be a member ofsome labor organization. You know it iswrong to boycott, and when a person is de-prived of earning a livlihood, simply becausethe person is or is not a member of the samesociety, "it is just too horrid" to even thinkof. But, Mr. Brown, in conclusion, the wholeevil lurks in the aim and purpose of yourand my combination. For instead of a com-mon purpose pervading all, the employer isfound organized for protection against thelaborer, and the laboier against'the employer;and as a necessary result both are suffering.Are you willing to admit the truth? Mr.Brown, do you still insist that the laborer ismerely the tool for capital?

Respectfully yours,HARRY C. MOULTON.

A RICHMOND SHOE DEALER WHO IS INTERESTED

IN REPAIRING—HE TELLS US HOW HE HAS

SYSTEMIZED THIS BRANGH.


RICHMOND, Va., Sept. 1.—I have beenthinking of late that I ought to write the RE-CORDER on a subject that has occasioned memuch thought, that is, the repairing of bootsand shoes. Is there no way or method bywhich this can be accomplished over the oldfifty-year-ago rut? Is there no new inven-tions that can help a dealer out in soling,heeling, etc. ? If there is anybody who oughtto know, it is the RECORDER. For someyears I have adopted all the improvementsthat came along, that help make a shoe deal-er's life an easier one. I have also adoptednew methods in my department, which havehelped me very much. For instance, whena customer leaves a pair of shoes with me tobe repaired, I have a tag to put on the same;this tag is numbered, and I keep a book withcorresponding numbers in the same, oppositewhich I write the customer's name and ad-dress, kind of shoes left with me, nature, ofrepairs, when to be done and price for theJOD. Then, when a job is finished, I havemy boy put a shine on every pair of men'sor boy's shoes, and a coat of dressing oneach pair of women's or children's shoes.They are then nicely done up in a sheet ofbrown paper, and the tag placed on the out-side, then the package is placed on a shelfspecially arranged for this purpose. Whenthe customer calls for his or her shoes, I askthem their name, then I open my book andwhen I find it, I take the number opposite.

say 406, then I look for package 406, and thework is delivered. This is what I call apretty good system, and the result has been agreat increase in my repairing departmeutwith each year's business.

Yours truly, DIXIE.

MR. MONROE WOOLVERTON REPLIES TO " JOHN

SW1NTON" HE COULD GO FOR HIM IF HE

KNEW WHO HE WAS.


ALBANY, N. Y., Oct. 3, 1887.—The letteryou published in last week's issue, datedPoughkeepsie, N. Y., and signed John Swin-ton, has a broader and more damaging effectand influence against Albany and its manu-facturers than I supposed it would have whenI was in your office a week ago and read i t ;therefore I hasten to reply; not that the shoefits me, but for the broad sweeping chargesagainst all of Albany's manufacturers. Thewriter might have just cause to censure someof the recent failures of the Fearey Mfg.Co., who really were New York and Bostonleather dealers, and not Albany's regularmanufacturers; but why he should so broadly,and even criminally, charge all as dishonestwe cannot understand; therefore, we takethe trouble to answer the communication, andif we could know the full name of the writerwould made him prove his assertion. Canyou furnish us with his right address? Ihope to draw a contraditory editorial in theRECORDER on this subject. In behalf ofAlbany's manufacturers, I remain,

Yours respectfully,MONROE WDOLVERTON.

"JUSTICE TO ALBANY."—A SHOE MANUFACTURER

WHO WOULD LIKE TO MEET "JOHN SWIN-

TON."—HE DENOUNCES HIM AS A

COWARD.


ALBANY, N. Y., Oct. 1, 1887.—Who is thefictitious coward who signs his name- JohnSwinton, who wrote the unjust and vileharangue in your issue of Sept. 28 against thehonor and high reputation of Albany, and allits manufacturers? He has no commercialrating in the town he writes from, and I knowof but one influential Swinton, the K. of.L.candidate for Secretary of State, New York,and I know the K. of L. would hardly de-nounce Albany shoe manufacturers who havebeen so just with them. Or is it some leath-er creditor, who, perhaps, is a stockholder inthe defunct Fearey M'Pg. Co., who had a di-rect market for the leather in shoes manufac-tured by this company, which was composedof leather dealers of New York, Boston andelsewhere, and came to so unprofitable andsad an end in trying to compete with Albany'sregular manufacturers? They now owe Al-bany's banks and citizens large amountswhich said stockholders should pay. Thisforeign stock company (with one exception)is the only shoe manufacturing company inAlbany but what has always paid one hun-dred cents on the dollar; on the contrary,Albany shows the best financial record in theUnited States, especially among its shoe man-ufacturers, with such valuable and strongfinancial firms as the East New York Shoe Co ,Smith, Pratt & Herrick, Monroe Woolverton



WALES - GOODYEAR RUBBER COMPANY.

Heel and Tap, List,

XTo Seel, Ziist, -

%

$2.75

2.50

An Extra High CutAnkle Boot, which willnot cut the wool boot.

This Shoe is unexcell-ed for

Lumbermen & Farmers,and this Season is meet-ing with very large sales

The Improved

C O N G R E S S

ANKLE BOOTS.

is the only AnkleBoot made that can be

readily put on after the woolboot is on the foot, and is sureto become the most popular

Shoe ever manufact-ured for wool boots.

LIST.

Men's Heel £ Tap, $2.10Men's No Heel, 1.85Boys' Heel 4 Tap, 1.75Boys' No Heel, 1.50

SELLING AGENTS.

Chester J. Pike, J. H. ORR,Lincoln Street, Cor. Essex, BOSTON. 114 Duane Street, NEW YORK

SEND FOR PRICE-LIST, AND MENTION THE RECORDER.



& Co., Shoemaker & Pabst, Chas. C. Geller,Willard Bellows, and many others who havemanufactured shoes in Albany from twenty-five to fifty years, and whose financial stand-ing and high honor have never been ques-tioned only by this secreted Poughkeepsiecoward who should be rewarded and pun-ished and sent to one town lower (Sing Sing)or New York, where he belongs, for his dam-aging, untrue and vile statement. Below Igive you Bradstreet's quarterly report as proofof Albany's financial standing. Here it is:"The failures in Albany during the thirdquarter of the year ending yesterday havebeen six in number, with liabilities of $207,-874 and assets of $73,031, as near as can beestimated With the exception of the col-lapse of the Fearey M'f g Co., the financialdisasters of this city during the past threemonths have been of no particular significance.The trades represented are one each of hotels,boot and &oe manufactories, grocers, fruitdealers, leather and fancy goods. It is doubt-ful if any city of the size of Albany can makea better show than this." I leave the aboveto the reader so that he may draw his ownconclusion. JUSTICE TO ALBANY.

MB. BRESNAHAN. WRITES FROM ENGLAND.—

HOW THEY MAKE SHOES IN THAT COUN-

TRY.—AMERICA LEADS THE WORLD.


STAFFORD, England, Sept. 22, 1887.—Ithink that a line in regard to the way theshoe business is conducted in England willbe of some interest to you and the readersof the RECORDER, and will therefore take theliberty of explaining to you my observationsin this country on this subject. In the firstplace I called upon Mr. Gardner of London,the agent for American machinery and thesuperintendent of a large manufacturing com-pany there, and he sent a man with me toshow me around through some of the princi-pal boot and shoe factories. I need not tellyou that their system is different from ours inAmerica, as that would be expected, but tothink it would be so much different one wouldnot suppose unless he should see it person-ally. The great trouble with shoe manufac-turing in this country is, that those engaged init seem satisfied that they have the bestsystem. I went through the large factory ofPacok Bros, on the Southwick Road, Lon-don, and they are using four McKay sewingmachines, two turned sewing machines andone pegging machine. They manufactureevery kind of a boot and shoe all under thesame roof, from a child's ankle tie to a long-legged sewed boot. This factory is as largeas any in Lynn, but they do not manufacturehalf as many shoes in it as they would in aLynn or Brockton factory, taking into con-sideration the same space of floor room used.The stock is all kept in the factory, and thenit is sent out among the different families tobe fitted or stitched. After the uppers arebrought back there are sent with the stock tothe laster, who, by the way, used cast ironlasts altogether. Here they are lasted, andthe sole is laid by the man who lasts the shoes,and hammer or level before it goes tothe McKay stitcher. I noticed that by hav-ing the sole so well laid that wrinkles in theshank are avoided. Now the part that struck

me as being behind the times was, that afterthe shoes are sewed they are sent out againand not returned to the factory until they areall finished and ready for shipment. A manwith his wife and family, if he has one, willwork on them at home early and late, andvery often the wife is the better workman.The manufacturers claim that they save theexpense of large factories in this way andalso of machinery; but in my opinion if theyhad as good a system as we have in America,they would turn out more work than they donow in half of the space. Stafford, the placewheie I write this letter from, has twelve largefactories, and I find they are run on the sameprinciple as the one above. One manufac-turer told me that they had tried our Ameri-can system and found the work was not goodenough; but I convinced him that we weremuch in advance in America in the shoe busi-ness over the way it is carried on in England.I told him it would not do to be in a hurryin his way of doing business, as a family wereliable to go off on a racket, which he sayshas often been the case with him. But it isthe English way of shoe manufacturing andthey will not change it. I also went throughthe factory of Edwin Bostock, and he goes astep further than the other men, as he heelsthe shoes in his own shop and also runs hisown stitching room, manufactures his woodenlasts, his own cartons, boxes, and, in fact,does everything but tan his own leather.. Ifind that he uses our American cutting boardsand sewing machines, but he has nothing forleveling, trimming or setting, or any otherpart of finishing, as he sends that out to bedone. What is most needed here is to havesome one come over who knows our methodof manufacturing and convince the tradehere of the fact. To such a party a fortunecould be made. Hoping that you are havingyour usual success, and with the best of re-gards I remain, Yours respectfully,

M. V. BRESNAHAN,of Bresnahan Bros., Lynn, Mass.

MR. HOKE CHANGES HIS MIND HE IS ALL

RIGHT NOW AND WILL CERTIFY FOR OUR

GOOD CHARACTER—HE WANTS OUR

NEW BOOK ALSO.


SANDUSKY, O., Sept. 24, 1887—In a formercommunication to you I intimated that you werean "association of dead beats," not becauseI thought so, but I was "up on my ear," ow-ing to your seemingly carelessness in not an-swering my letter and acknowledging receiptof subscription money I sent you, and Iwanted to say something that would makeyour feelings akin to mine, and I believe Isucceeded. Your letter explaining the causeof the delay and assuring me that you had"got me on the list" is entirely satisfactory,and I am ready to certify to your good char-ter. Please let me know when your book"How to Manage a Retail Shoe Store" is outand lowest prices on quantities. I am goingto carry them with me and offer them to mycustomers, not for the money there is in it,but for the accommodation of the customer.I think any retail shoe dealer could use oneadvantageously. With best wishes I am

Very Truly,C. C. HOKE.

PITCHING INTO MR. DONEY.—AN ANONYMOUS

CORRESPONDENT WHO FEELS BAD.—MR.

DONEY IS ALL RIGHT AND CAN TALK

FOR HIMSELF.


NEW BRUNSWICK, Sept. 15, 1887.—Willyou please inform your many readers in theMaritime Provinces who this Mr. Doney isnow perambulating among the Bluenoses, andwho delivers himself of so much nauseatingstuff regarding a certain H. P., and the greatpeople who purchase them. "Some men areborn great, others have greatness thrust uponthem," was once considered a wise saying,but according to Doney no man can be great,or clever or good who does not control hisC. H. P. Fools can be caught with flatterybetter than anything else, and a promise of a"puff" in the RECORDER has caught severalleading (?) dealers. Doney plays it well,and we have no great objection to his doingso, but we do object, as readers of the RE-CORDER, to perusing such voluminous bom-bast. Mr. Doney, we are real tired, pleasegive us a rest. Yours, D. C. E.

TRADE GOSSIP AT LYNN.

[FROM OUR REGULAR CORRESPONDENT.]

The small failures of William A. Chaseaud Charles B. Lord, Lynn shoe manufactur-ers, upon a small scale are th e first ones tobe announced in that city for a long time.The Chase failure was precipitated by theattachment ot Mrs. Mary Sprague, who couldnot secure from Mr. Chase any settlement ofher dead husband's interest in the business.Mr. Chase has always borne a first-class rep-utation in the business world, but there hasbeen a certain mortgage given which thecommittee desire to have investigated. Itis said to be somewhat doubtful if Mr. Chase'soffer of ten cents finds acceptance.

W. L. Douglas of Brockton is being mostunjustly pursued in Lynn by the Lasters'Union, but it is not believed that its mode ofwork will have much effect with thinkingpeople. Mr. Douglas issues the followingstatement to the Lynn public, and on accountof the prominence of the affair has receivedin the country his comments will be of gen-eral interest:

'•My attention has been called to a circularrecently issued, and now being distributed bythe Lasters' Protective Union of Lynn, whichis so entirely incorrect in every particular,and shows so plainly that the organization orparties issuing it have totally misrepresentedmatters at issue between myself and the Las-ters' Union, that I feel called upon to say afew words in explanation.

"In the first place, as stated in aj-ecent let-ter, published in your paper, I have never re-fused to pay standard prices for lasting, andam now, and have been since Nov., 1885.payng the schedule prices for lasting, as postedin my factory by the Lasters' Union of Brock-ton at that time.

"No committee representing the Union evercalled on me in regard to a change, neitherhave I declined to make any advance inprices, or to consult with any authorized com-mittee from the union. I have never re-fused employment of members of the Lasters'Union, except those discharged from my fac-



Union India Rubber Co.INCORPORATED 1847.

HARLEM, - - - N. Y.One of tho Oldest Manufacturers in the Rubber Trade,

THEIR

CRACK-PROOF -PAT. DEC- 7, 1875. RUBBER BOOTS

Have stood at the head of the Line for years, are made as good asat the beginning, and are the only survivors of the

OLD-FASHIONED RUDDER DOOTS.We pledge ourselves not to cheapen them in materials or workmanship

GOODYEAR RUBBER CO.,NEW YORK: 487 Broadway.

BUFFALO: 240 Main Street.WASHINGTON: 309 9th Street, N.W.

CHICAGO: 147 & 149 Fifth Avenue.MIL WAU EE: 372 & 374 E. Water Street.

ST. PAUL: 131 East 3d Street.MINNEAPOLIS: 201 Nicollet Avenue.

ST. LOUIS: 400 North 4th Street.KANSAS CITY: 1032 Main Street.

SAN FRANCISCO: 577 & 579 Market St.MONTREAL: 644 Craig Street.

ARE OUR AGENTS. BEWARE OF COUNTERFEITS



tory, and I gave them a fair and ample op-portunity to resume their former positions inpreference to others that might apply forwork. My factory is not a so-called 'scab'shop, according to the definition of that wordas applied in this particular case, which isgenerally understood to mean 'one who ac-cepts a position vacated by another at lesswages than the former received, and who lefthis or her position on account of a reductionin or a refusal by employer to increase priceson certain kinds of work.' If I am correctin defining this word, then the term cannotbe applied to my factory; as stated above, Ihave not made any reduction in my pj|ces for thelasting,andl am now paying the same as postedby the Lasters' Union two years ago, and ifmy shop is a 'scab shop' now, it must havebeen for the last two years, and the membersof the Lasters' Union who worked for mesince that time must have been 'scabbers.'

"I regret the necessity of imposing on thereaders of this paper again, but in justice tothe few who might be mislead by the state-ments in the before-mentioned circular, I feelit my duty to set matters right with them,by contradicting the charges made therein.

"I shall publish this statement three con-secutive days, which I think will be sufficientto be seen and read by all interested in thematter, and I trust the friends of organizedlabor will carefully examine facts betore ac-cepting any theories advanced by the Lasters'Union of Lynn unless accompanied by someproof of their truthfulness.

"I will also state here that if my goods can-not be obtained at Mr. Donnelly's, theWholesaler, they will be sent, postage paid,by writing direct to my factory.

Very truly,W. L. DOUGLAS.

BROCKTON, Sept. 28, 1887."

The cutters' difficulty at the factory of D.A. Donovan & Co. was not of long duration,

Although Brockton and other cities in theState have banished the labor banners by or-dinance, no move is made in that direction inthis city, where the labor unions are supposedto wield a substantial influence in local poli-tics. No city government member has thecause so much at heart as to imperil his po-litical chances by offering an ordinance look-ing to the extinction of the banners. Brock-ton is not such a "labor reform" town as isLynn; therefore, its go\ernment memberswhile assailed for their action, have the satis-faction of knowing that their votes werebacked by public opinion. There never wasany move for an anti-banner ordinance here.

The difficulty between the Knights oLabor and the McKay machine stitchers aHaverhill has created a considerable amounof talk in this city. One of the LastersUn:on officials remarked on the settlemenof the trouble as follows : "The result demonstrates that the lasters' opinion of th<Knights of Labor, expressed by us as an or-ganization in the past, was based on truthand fact. The Knights of Labor in Haver-hill unnecessarily interfered with the business of the McKay stitchers and by the foolishness of the K. of L. the stitchers suffer.The Knights should be taught not to mix inmatters not of their own concern. Theyhave always had a sufficient amount of re-

pect for the lasters not to mingle in theiriffairs."

There is not much danger of any shoemanufacturer being summoned into court toanswer to the law which imposes a fine offrom $20 to $50 for employing a minor un-der fourteen years of age who cannot readand write in the English language, exceptduring the vacation of the public schools.It further provides that every person who em-ploys a minor over fourteen years of age whocannot read and write in the English language,who is not a regular attendant of a day orevening school, shall be subject to a penaltyof from $50 to $100. The exception is thatwhen it is apparent that that the labor of anyminor, who would be debarred from employ-ment under the law, is necessary for the sup-port of the family to which he belongs, theschool committee at its discretion may issuea permit authorizing his employment. Thelaw was designed to prevent the employmentof French Canadians, who come to our fac-tory towns for a short period, with the inten-tion of returning to Canada. All laws infavor of education are to be endorsed, butthe law-makers, judging from the employers'liability bill and other of their productions,have got it into their heads that employersneed a considerable portion of the legislation.When the Legislature next convenes it willhave no occasion to make laws governingemployers of labor. The ground is aboutcovered.

An arrest was recently made by the policein,this city which demonstrated the presenceof a peculiar custom, to say the least, amongthe shoe workers of Lynn. A man wasbrought into court for the larceny of twopairs of French kid uppers from a shoe man-ufacturer. In extenuation of his alleged of-fence, the arrested man stated that he hadthe stock cut up and run through the factoryto be made up, when the operatives had sparetime. He had no idea, he stated that hewas committing larceny, telling the court thatit was "the common practice so to do." Ifsuch is the rule- shoe manufacturers are notaware of its existence. In a year's time thecost of operatives' boots and shoes, underthis rule, would amount to a considerablesum. The fellow who gave vent to this newidea was fined $22.83 in court.

The Lasters' Union has now given up theidea of erecting its proposed Andrew streetbuilding "until next spring," so it is reported.The truth is said to be tnat so many labortroubles of late have weakened the treasury,and that it is not then fore judicious to nowinvest any money in brick and mortar.

Patrick P. Sherry, shoe manufacturer, nowhopes to have "banner boy" case called atthe Supreme Court on Tuesday, October 18,Gen. Butkr will appear for the lasters andendeavor to prove by precedent that theUnion has a right to have a "sandwich boy"on patrol at Sherry's factory front. HenryF. Hurlburt will conduct Mr. Sherry's case,and try to demonstrate to the court that thesign is a menace to Mr. Sherry's business,arid therefore a nuisance.

The Lasters' Union held a meeting a fewevenings ago, when representatives from Bos-ton, Salem, Stoneham, Beverly and Marble-

head Unions were in attendance. The Doug-las trouble was reported as having been dis-cussed at considerable length in an informalway, and it was decided to work the boycottagainst the shoes in a still more aggressivemanner. Mr. Douglas' sl.oes will be welladvertised before the end is reached.

Henry C. Vrooman, the Kansas socialistwho is going about the country dissemina-ting his peculiar views on government, spokeunder the auspices of the Lynn Social Laborparty on Friday evening. Such men as he,who argue for the Chicago anarchists, domuch to injure united labor.

Baker & Creighton are to remove fromtheir Market street factory, and James W.Ingalls & Son are to vacate their Monroestreet factory, intending to occupy aboutNovember 1, the new factories in the JamesE. Manning building on State street.

There will be shoe factories provided inthe mammoth six-story block which is beingbuilt by Thomas Brothers at the corner ofMulberry and Oxford streets.

The last weekly shoe shipment reportshowed a gain of 489 cases compared withthe same period of one year ago.

William B. Cushing, of the well-knownfirm of Cushing & Downs, is now able to beat the factory each day. ^

The Lynn Retail Shoe Dealers' Associa-tion should now begin to show some signs oflife.

Manufacturers here, as well as those inother shoe cities and towns, are claiming thatthe labor unions exert favoritism in the levy-ing of prices in several departments.

A fair price for McKay machine stitchingis thirty-five cents, yet in the majority of shoemanufacturing towns the unions are demand-ing from forty to fifty cents.

There will be more than 300 dwellinghouses erected in Lynn the present year, areasonable sign that the shoe industry isprospering.

NEW YORK VS. LYNN SHOES.The New York Sun gets off the following,

which we are inclined to think, was writtenby the editor of our aged New York con-temporary :

Lynn will boast of the size of her factories,and point to the annual value of her newshoes as evidence of her general superiority.It is certain that she has some pretty largefactories, and can point to one firm that turnsout 10,000 pairs of shoes each day. Butthere is a firm in New York that producesshoes to the value of about $1,000,000 an-nually, and there are others that run well upamong the hundreds of thousands. Esti-mates differ on the comparative value of theproducts of the two cities. Lynn's annualproduct cannot amount to much less than$25,000,000, while the annual product ofNew York is not estimated at more than $io,-000,000.

But New York, on the other hand, is thefine art centre. On the average, one pair ofher shoes is worth two pairs of Lynn shoes,and her shoemakers are all fat and well-fed.The New York workmen do not work so fast


7 6 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

ANOTHER!AND A "CORKER!"

A Man's Calf, Dcngola Top,

WAUKEOTHAST SHOE,FOTl

$2.00WIDTHS 3 TO 6. HALF SIZES.

Seamless, Solid and Stylish! No Finer Filling ShoeWE HAVE GOT THERE I

There never was the equal of this Shoe as a seller. It is ALL RIGHT,and we are behind it with a guarantee that you never bought such goodvalue for any such price. If you want any of these Shoes, S e n d a tO n c e . Our factory is not big enough to supply everybody. First come,first served.

ggg2* For Sample Pairs, add 25 cts. for postage.

SNOW,200 & 202 CONGRESS STREET, BOSTON, MASS.

N e w York Office, 83 Reade Street, where Mr. Geo. C. Irvin can be found every Friday.


October 5, 1887] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 77as the Lynn workmen. One machine in Lynnturns out about 900 pairs of shoes a day,while in New York a single machine can onlybe fed up to a capacity of 300 pairs a day,the metropolitan shoemakers, apparently,being too fa'. But our shoes are ever somuch nicer than the Lynn shoes.

HAVERHILL, MASS.

Gossip and Gleanings fromthe Shoe District.

[FROM OUR REGULAR CORRESPONDENT.]

There will be an unusually good fall andwinter shoe tra^e in this city, barring labortroubles, of course, which are not expectedunless some attempt is made to reduce wages.The workmen in their present somewhatbroken condition as an organization will makeno attempt to raise wages. Nor would it beadvisable; they are getting as much as ispaid in other cities on the average, and a tripa few miles back to the country factorieswould quickly convince them that it is bestto let well enough alone. The Manufactur-ers' Association had a very well attended anduseful meeting, Monday afternoon, Oct. 3.Things past, present and those likely to comewere talked over and a general unanimity offeeling was manifested. Although the ship-ments for the week preceding Sept. 30 werefour or five hundred cases less than a corre-sponding shipment a year ago, this week's fig-ures bid fair to show a margin on the otherside. Of course many are making samplesjust now and otherwise getting ready for busi-ness, but men's faces are a better barometerthan actual figures or anything else. Whena man looks cheerful and full of courage hewill make business good, and the feeling onthe street has never been more hopeful. Thetalk about leaving town and starting countryfactories is conspicuous for its absence.

Speaking of country factories, every nowand then the story becomes current that someof those who were driven elsewhere, like theGales to Exeter, Jennings & Sterns to Eppingand Dorrs & Crafts to Northwood, are anx-ious to get back or are actually coming back.There is no truth in any of it. The historyof the past summer stares them in the face.When the danger of labor troubles is past, Iknow two or three firms that will come back.But the reason for their leaving is not yet re-moved entirely, albeit, as children soon learnto dread the fire, so do employer and em-ploye soon learn from bitter experience thatboth strikes and cut-downs are expensive lux-uries.

New firms are coming to the front; someold ones are taking a back seat, as it were.The comparatively new firm of Woodman &Howes has just moved a few doors downstreet to secure greater facilities for their in-creasing business, and their new office will beone of the nicest in the city. They make thefinest slippers in the market.

Mr. Porter Garduer, of Gardner Bros, isbuilding him one of the most elegant resi-dences in the city on the Highlands,command-ing a fine view of the city and Bradford.

Jtmay be stated that the shoe trade has neverbeen in a better financial state than at pres-ent. The failures will be less here than everbefore.

Messrs. C. W. Arnold, A. B. Priest, and H.C.Pinkham have just returned from a coon huntup in Henniker. Hunting is splendid upthere ; so it is nearer home, but there are nocoons in it.

Messrs. Swett & Bond are doing well withtheir free shop. They have no trouble fromeither their help inside or the Knights outside.It was a complete victory, but it must be con-fessed it was won without any help from theirbrother manufacturers.

Mr. George P. Crofits of Davis & Crofits,of Northword, N. H., has just returned fjoma successful trip in the West.

"I should not dare to go into the shoe bus-iness today," said an old manufacturer theother day, "without capital enough to takecare of all the discounts."

In spite of the seeming necessity of cap-ital, young men go into the shoe businesswith little capital and make a success of it.The reason is they work at the bench ormachine themselves.

The new machine for making turned goodsis now said to do the work satisfactorily, allformer difficulties having been overcome. Itis undoubtedly the best machine of the kindyet invented, but the stock company whichcontrols it has been capitalized for $500,000and no dividends need be looked for in a longtime. It is entirely in the hands of Haverhillcapitalists.

The trouble between the Knights of Laborand the McKay stitchers has simmered downwonderfully in the past week. The disciplineadministered the Knights has proved whole-some. But think of i t! Organizations whosefundamental tenet was and is arbitration, re-fusing to take their own medicine.

Everybody reads the RECORDER in thiscity, and it has won its way into public favorchiefly for its outspoken and fearless expres-sions of opinion concerning the relations oflabor and capital.

ROCHESTER N. Y. NOTES.

Eugene T. Curtis is home from a brieftrip in the East.

E. M. Downs, representing the BarberBros. Co.'s thread house called on his Roch-ester customers last week.

Chas. E. Young has returned from his va-cation ttip in the East, where he enjoyedhimself, and gained in health and spirit.

H. Tuggy, one of P. Cox Co.'s agents, hasstarted on his trip through Utah, Colorado,Montana, Wyoming, Idaho and New Mexico.

Patrick Cox has returned from the Thou-sand Islands, and is no longer suffering withhay fever. The P. Cox Company have justcommenced using some new box labels thatare the handsomest that they ever sent out.

Rochester manufacturers are much inter-ested in the recent decision in New York ofJudge Barrett, who confirmed the decision ofa police magistrate holding for the grand jurythe men who were arrested for inciting thestrike at Hanan's and Gardner & Estes' fac-tories. It is believed that this judicial de-cision will go a long way towards* discourag-ing strikes, and in that view, it will benefitboth employers and employes, the latter more

than the former, for a strike entails moreactual deprivation and suffering among theirfamilies than to the employers. Rochestermanufacturers have had very little trouble withoperatives for the past three or four years,and it is believed the pleasant relations nowexisting and which were reached partiallythrough arbitration will continue for a longtime to come, for both classes are satisfiedand their prosperity was never greater.

Thomas Bolton's agents are prepared tomake their departure from Rochester earlyin October. George Bennett has the South;William Law, who is already away, has Penn-sylvania, Ohio, Indiania and Illinois; PeterDeMerehas Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, Utahand Nebraska; and Rudolph Winterroth hasthe great Northwest. Their samples are thefinest Mr. Bolton has ever sent out, and in-clude several n^w styles that will certainlyplease the trade.

Mr. E. P. Reed of Rochester, N.Y., start-ed October 3 for Chicago to look after hisbranch house there. E. P. Reed & Co.'sagents will start out between Oct. 10 and 15with their spring samples, which include,among other new things, a handsome LouisQuinze heel and a new square toe. Mr. Wal-ter E. Crandall will go through the SouthernStates; S. D. W. Menneiley covers Indiana,Iowa, Nebraska part of Wyoming, and a por-tion of Dakota; and H. H. Fookes has Ohio.Mr. Menneiley, whose poetic announcementshave attracted considerable attention in thetrade, has a brand new one, which is so goodthat it is given herewith :

Again with "grip-sack" brimming o'erWith samples new and neat,

Our latest styles and fashionsTYou'll find are hard to beat;

So wait and I will surely call,I know you will agree,

And get your sizes ready,In widths from A to Z.

Our record in the past we pride,We strive our best to please,

And those who wear E. P. REED'S shoesHave comfort, style and ease.

Our "Waukenphast" and "Acme" last,"New York" and "Opera," too;

Our "Creole" surely takes the lead,Because it's something new.

In stock our REED & CO. FrenchIs mellow, soft and nice;

Will outwear any "genuine"'And cheaper far in price.

In goat we cut "Tampico,"We know it is the best,

Our Goodyear welt and hand-sewed turnsHave surely stood the test.

The "COWLES BROS'." children's shoesExcel in fit and wear.

Try them and you will agreeNo other can compare.

So, thanking you for favors past,I'll bid you fond "adieu,"

And notify you with a cardThe day I'll call on you.

—Menneiley.

Give Him a Long Credit.

Probably the only bootblack who ever voUuntarily gave his parents the money heearned is Sammy Hiller of Toledo. Thelittle fellow often goes to distant towns, andhis mother most of the time does not knowwhere he is. While Sammy was at the Na-tional Drill at Washington his mother wassurprised to receive an express package fromhim containing $21.


78 THE BOOT AND SLOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

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Our Specialty, CLOVE GRAIN GOODS, 80c to $1.50.EVERT PAIR SOLID. EVERY PAIR 'WARRANTED.

Sizes: Childrens, 5 to 75^, 8 to ioj^ ; Misses', 11 to 2 ; Women's 2yi to 7 ; Boys', 3 to 5 ^ ; Youths', 11 to 2. We challenge comparisonof Goods and Prices. THEY CAN'T BE BEATEN. Send for Sample Dozens. Address all Correspondence to

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Place Your Orders EarlyFOB

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to our new factory. We have aimed to mail to all ourcustomers a circular announcing this* If we have over-looked anyone, please accept our apology, and write usat once.

S. M. BIXBY & CO.,19-1 <& 196 ZZester St., XT. "5T,


October 5, 1887.J

KNIGHTS AND THE CONSPIRACY LAW.

Judge Barrett on the Ham Case—The case ofThe Men Who Persecuted Him Should Go

To The Grand Juiy,

In the case of John E. Gill and otherKnights of Labor, charged with violating theConspiracy law, Justice Barrett, of the Su-preme Court, New York, Thursday rendereda decision dismissing the writs of habeas cor-pus and certiorari on which he was asked toreview the action of Police Justice Solon B.Smith in holding them for the action of theGrand Jury.

Gill and John Foster, Frederick Brunbauer,T. Wooley, James Macdonald and John Camp-bell, all members at various times of the Ex-ecutive Committee of District Assembly No.91, Knights of Labor, are charged with hav-ing violated sections 168, 169 and 170 of thePenal Code in two cases. In one of these itis alleged that Gill, Foster and Brunbauercaused a strike in the factory of John H.Hanan & Sons, shoe manufacturers at Centreand White stfeets, because the firm refusedto discharge a man named Dunphy who hadrefused to join the Knights of Labor.

In the other case it is charged that Gill,Foster, Wooley, Macdonald and Campbellby threats compelled Gardner & Estes, shoemanufacturers, at Ninth ave. and Fourteenthstreet, to discharge their foreman, O. M.Hartt, and two other men on February 21.Since that time, it is averred, they have pre-vented Hartt from getting work in this city,and afterward, when he obtained work in Bal-timore, induced District Assembly No. 41,Knights of Labor, in Baltimore to demandhis discharge. Since then he has been un-able to obtain work. They were all held tobail in $500 by Justice Smith. The case wasargued before Justice Barrett sitting in theCourt of Oyer and Terminer. In his decis-ion the Judge says:

The result ot my examination of these papersis that a prima facie case has been made out suf-ficient to put the relators upon trial or rather tojustify the submission of the facts to the GrandJury. The difficulty with the positions takenby the learned counsels for the relators is thatthere was no question with regard either to ad-vancing or maintaining the rate of wages. Thelaw as expressed in the present statute [PenalCode, Section 170] permits orderly and peace-able co-operation to effect these ends, and un-doubtly, as an incident to this authorized co-op-eration—that is, to render it effective—a resortto all lawful means ot enforoement. Peaceablewithdrawal from employment commonly calleda "strike," however extensive, is plainly such anincident. Violence, of course, is not, nor is aa threat ot violence, whether direct or as impliedin a disorderly and turbulent strike. It is truethat an absolute scale of wages cannot be effectlvely maintained so long as persons outside ofthe combination work for less than the fixedrate. Yet such persons have a perfect right towork and are entitled to protection, notagainst the peaceable strike but against violenceor threats of violence, direct or as above sug-gested In the form of a disorderly and turbulentstrike.

Justice Barrett clearly defines the nature ofthe conspiracy referred to in the law. Hesays:

Where, however, there is no relation, director indirect, between wages and strike, the com-bination which bringb the latter about for un-Jawlul purposes is a criminal conspiracy. Thestrike then involve* a diminishing of the quan-tify ot productive labpr •'which" as was said by

THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 79Savage, t . J., in the People vs. Fisher [14 Wend.,I6J Ms an injury to the community and an actinjurious to trade." The judgment in thatcase upon this head is not affected by the laterstatue nor is it questioned by the cases alreadyreferred to. The unlawful purpose may also beevidenced by force.threats or intimidation to pre-vent another from exercising a lawful trade orcalling [Penal Code, Section 168, Sub. 5]. Thislast provision was not in the Revised Statuteswhen T*ie People vs. Fisher was decided. Con-sequently, the criminal conspiracy doctrinethere discussed had reference solely to actsclaimed to be injurious to trade or commerce.Here, however, the complaint covers bothgrounds, namely, acts preventive of the exer-cise of a lawful calling [Sub. 5] and acts pro-ductive of injury to trade or commerce [Sub. 6].It is contended that both these subdivisions ofSection 16S are limited by Section 170, and thisis clearly so, but such limitation only goes to theextent of legalizing the peaceable and orderlystrike when resorted to in good faith for the au-thorized purposes. Section 168 and 170 as thusconstrued are entirely harmonious.

The Judge says that he cannot assent tothe doctrine that Section 170 authorizes acombination of individuals to compel, bymeans condemned in Section 168, all work-ing men to join the co-operative forces or topunish those who are supposed to be inimicalthereto. In conclusion he says :

The facts presented to the magistrate tends toshow a deliberate purpose to impoverish andcrush a citizen for no reason connected in theslightest degree with the advancement or main-tenance of the rate. In execution of that pur-pose they also tend to show acts injurious totrade and acts preventative [by threats] of theexercise of a lawful calling. Such facts shouldcertainly be submitted to the Grand Jury.It follows that the relators were properlycommitted and that the writs should be dismissedand the relators remanded.

NEW YORK NOTES.

Mr. Zeno C. Waterbury of S. Waterbury &Son, returned from his vacation last week.

The Hudson River Boot and Shoe M'n'f'gCo. are about to bring out a line of women'sgoods.

E. E. Spencer & Co., 34 Warren street,are selling lots of the "U. S. Bull-dog Boot-jack." It is a taking novelty.

Hanan & Son are working overtime on or-ders. The "boycott" thus evinces its deadlypower. Let the good work go on.

Everybody said, "I told you so," after theyacht race was over. Before it was sailedpeople were generally non-commital. Strange.

M. L. Hiller & Son, 135 Duane street, arebusy on orders for fine trimmings and origi-nal novelties for the fine shoe manufacturers

The P. Cox Shoe M'n'f g Co.'s New Yorkstore had the largest month, in the way ofsales, during September of any month sinceits establishment.

John J. Lattemann, 98 Reade street, saysthat the Ankle-Supporting Corset Shoe makesnew customers for him daily. Prices aresomewhat reduced and the goods are betterthan ever.

The Morrow Shoe MTg. Co., 41 and 43Wairen street, are doing more business thanusual at this season. Their ladies', misses'and children's goods have achieved a verygratifying degree of popularity in all sectionsof the country.

G. & D. Silver, 78 Reade street, reporttrade as very satisfactory. Their ladies'American kid button shoe for $2 goes wellwith retailers everywhere. They have adver-tised it liberally.

S. M. Bixby & Co.'s new quarters are verylarge, but not large enough it seems. Theyare crowded now, even with all the extraspace, and are working two nights each weekto catch up on orders.

Button & Ottley are shipping an enormousquantity of "Raven Gloss Shoe Dressing,"and the wonder is where it all goes to. Theyhave worked up a wonderfully large businesson this popular specialty.

Morse & Rogers, 134 and 136 Duanestreet, have brought out another edition oftheir catalogue; "The Story.of Bill Price."It iS'Vorth reading, and will be sent to anyretailer of shoes on application.

A. S. Richards & Co., 59 and 61 Readestreet, the auction house, are having livelysales, and prices are good. Their commis-sion department grows every week in favorand new features are constantly added.

An enterprising firm of brass workers havemade shoe display stands for some NewYork manufacturers, which have been ac-cepted by a mrmber of them, as advertisingfeatures for customers' window displays.

Park, Bell & Co., 21 Warren street, musthave struck the popular fancy with their"F E. K. $2 shoe," and their "Bartholdi"#2.50 shoe. They say that 100 cases of theformer would not fill orders on hand and un-filled today, and the latter is not far behindin demand.

Edwin C. Burt & Co., 150 and 152 Duanestreet, never had so much to do as now.Their large factory is hardly able to handlethe volume of business, though every inch ofroom is utilized. Their line is finer andmore complete than ever before, which is in-deed a sweeping statement though a perfectlyaccurate one.

The New York Woven Label Co., 262Canal street, has made a national reputationfor artistic work and satisfactory quality andprices in their line, which includes not onlywoven labels, but all grades of webbing forstraps, the name 01 trade mark being woveninto each length in any color. Retailers andmanufacturers are adopting these strapslargely.

Thompson Bros., 131 and 133 Duanestreet, are as busy as bees Their stock ismore complete than ever, and that meansmuch. They can justly claim to carry thelargest and most complete line of men's, boys'and youths' goods in this country. Theprices range from 90 cents to $3.25, and in-clude all grades, styles and kinds of nailed,standard fastened, machine and hand-sewed.

The East New York Shoe Co., 129 Duanestreet, are looking for the man who has beenborrowing money on the strength of theirreputation. He has victimized several firmsin Boston and elsewhere by representing him-self as buyer for the company. Notwith-standing this, the "Ballou Flexible" shoe in-creases in popularity, and Mr. F. E. Pitkinsays it is the "boss" shoe for ladies', misses'and children.


8 0 1BE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, iS87

This

space

reserved

for

CHURCH,

BROWN,

& CO.,

66

Pearl

Street,

Boston,

Mass.



J. & T. Cousins, corner Grand and Centrestreets, are striving hard to catch up withthe demand for their advertised specialtiestor ladies' wear. The "New Finish Kid"goods, opera, medium opera and commonsense at £2.25, and the ladies' Waukenphastat $3.25 (hand sewed) are particularly indemand. Their misses' and children's springheels have their share of popular approval,and have long been a leading feature of theirbusiness. The Boston store, 200 and 202Congress street, has all these goods in stockready to ship at a moment's notice.

BUSINESS IN BROCKTON.

Business is good.i'o says everybody, and what everybody

says must be true. When the above sentenceis uttered by a Brock onian it may be ac-cepted as applying solely to the manufactureof shoes, for that is the business of our bust-ling little city, and that is what is meant everytime. When the shoe business is good every-body wears a happy expression. The manu-facturer smiles as he stands in the lobby ofthe post-office looking over the orders thatcome from all parts of the globe; the work-man smiles as he sees the orders transferredfrom paper on to the tags, and the largernumber of tags he sees made out, the hap-pier he is, for each tag means money for him.The expressman smiles as he figures up thenumber of cases the orders will fill, and themerchant smiles, and smiles broadly, as hesees all of the shops booming. This smilemight be traced down ad infinitum, for allBrockton beams amiably when her factoriesare busy. It means money for one and all,and "that is we are here for."

Talks with some of Brockton's leadingmanufacturers emphasize the fact that thecity is just now enjoying a healthy, large-sizedboom—not a little spasmodic one, but a gen-uine B-o-o-m, with a big B. They all agreethat business is better than they ever knew itbefore at this time of year, and the shoe ship-ments corroborate the story. The amountof business being done is phenomenal, andthe ground lost during the dark and drearydays of the long lockout and strike is beingregained rapidly. Several ofthe manufactur-ers have been asked how they accounted forthis rush, but none can satisfactorily explain.To be sure they do not try very hard, forthey are satisfied to let well enough alone.

It is the belief of a majority of the manu-facturers that the summer run, so called,which usually ends by Nov. 1st. will this yearbe merged into the winter run without thethree or. four weeks' shut-down usual at thattime. In fact several of the largest houseshave given notice to their help that they needexpect no vacation, except at fair time, as thefactory would keep running right along. Ordersfor spring and summer goods have alreadybeen received, and the volume is increasingrapidly. The orders come from all parts ofthe country, and trade seems as good in thesouth as in the west. There have been fewfailures in the shoe business, and a healthyconfidence is apparent. It is believed thatthe freedom from large strikes has done muchto increase the business, as the people, hav-ing more money, can buy more liberally.

It is not for the present only that we have

reason to feel joyful, for the outlookfor the future is also very brighOne of our conservative manufac-turers, who usually thinks twicebefore speaking, said concerningthe prospect ahead : " I believe thatBrockton has before her one of themost prosperous years she has everseen—that is, providing that nolabor disturbances interfere. Every-thing points to it. Last winterbusiness was depressed all over theentire country, and that injured ourtrade. Then there was snow on theground most of the time, and itis a well-known fact that affects us,for when there is snow the rubbert ade gets the benefit, while welose. Well, to follow out the idea,the summer just ended has been awet one, which leads us to believethat the winter will be mild.

If it is, it will increase our trade fullyone-third, for the ground will be bare andthe frozen earth will soon knock shoesout. These are a few of the reasons, addedto the general prosperity of the country,which lead me to take such a bright look intothe future."—Brockton Enterprise.

CLOSED.

OBITUARY.

The sudden death of Mr. E. M. Ames ofthe firm of Lamkin & Foster, jobbers in bootsand shoes, 174 and 176 Congress street, Bos-ton, will be painful news to his large circle ofacquaintances and friends in the trade. Mr.Ames left his place of business on Saturday,last, in apparently good health, and Sundaywas as well as usual. During the night hewas attacked by a fit of coughing, whichalmost immediately resulted in hemorrhage ofthe lungs from which he died in ten minutesfrom the time it began. The physicians pro-nounced it a case of heart disease, inducingcongestion of the blood vessels. Mr. Ameswas for ten years employed as a travelingsalesman in New York state by Lamkin &Foster, and resided in Binghampton, N. Y.,up to last January, when he was admitted tothe firm, and moved his family to Dorchester,Boston, since which time he has stayed at thestore. He was about 40 years of age andleaves a wife and three young children.

CROXTON, WOOD & CO.

This house is not unknown to a consider-able portion of our readers, having been ad-vertisers with us at one time, and also thesubject of an illustrated descriptive articlein our Philadelphia edition of eighteenmonths ago. We are pleased to have theopportunity of referring to them as advertis-ers once more; the class of manufacturersrepresented by this firm is a credit to anytrade journal's pages. The goods made byCroxton, Wood & Co., in their large factoryat the corner of 4th and Race streets, Phila-delphia, are ladies', misses', children's andinfants' shoes, and recently they have se-cured a patent on a turn shoe, which theiradvertisement particularizes, and which iswarranted not to rip.

OPEN.

THF U. S. BULL-DOG BOOT-JACK.

We might say "no family should be with-out;" for whether any of the family wearboots or not, the sense of security which itspresence would create makes it a welcomepiece of furniture. What bold bad burglarman would attempt to "burgle'' in the vicin-ity of such a formidable means of offense anddefense ? Shoe dealers will find it invalua-ble for inducing long-winded debtors to payup, and a retailer with many stale accountscan dress his window with these boot-jacksas a slight intimation of what delinqeunts mayexpect if they fail to liquidate promptly onpresentation of account. Traveling sales-men, exposed to the wild highwayman ofthe West, will not only see in the U. S. Bull-dog Boot-jack, an implement for freezing themarrow in the train rebbers' bones, but mayenjoy a peaceful assurance that he will neverhave to go to bed with his boots on. Wemight continue to suggest avenues of useful-ness for this neat invention, but it is unneces-sary. Suffice it to say that its drawing pow-ers as an article of trade are unsurpassed.For sale by Edward E. Spencer & Co., 34Warren street, New York. Prices and otherparticulars will be found in their advertise-ment this week.

THE BRADBURY MACHINE.

Shoes nowadays depend largely upon thesewing machine as a meana of facilitating themaking or repairing of these articles, and tofind a good and reliable machine for the custorn maker or the repairer one has not to gofarther than the "Bradbury," which has earneda well-merited recognition as a leader in thisline. The finest class of work, or the mostordinary in the way of repairs can be accom-plished with rapidity and precision ; the workbeing always of uniform excellence, with theminimum of skill required to operate the ma-chine. Some thirty thousand of these arenow in use on this continent, and their dura-bility and ease of running, together withtheir adaptibility to the widest range of re-pair work or custom fitting has made it agreat favorite. The importing agent for theUnited States is Mr. Benjamin F. Dunlap,245 Broadway, New York.



THEY ARE COMING!OUR SALESMEN";

MR. C. B. WYBR Visits j KvSi&ffifir1

MR. W. B. BAJLrBY Visits Ohio.MR. S. W. JBNNINGS Visits Illinois.

CROSS & BANCROFT, - LYNN, MASS.Manufacturers of Women's and Misses' Specialties in French and American Kid, "Buckhorn," "Amaranth," "Dongola," Serge, Etc.

If you wish for full particulars send for Price List.

GROXTON, WOOD & CO..MANUFACTURERS OF

Ladies' Misses', Children's and Infants'

FINE SHOESPECIALTIES—Our Own Patent Turn Shoes, wiU not rip. Prices, in Brush or Glazed Sid,

$2.25, $2.50, $2.75 and $3.25. Send for Samples and mention the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

2 5 5 IVorth I oiM-th Street,

SPECIAL OFFER!We have in Stock, at our New York Store, the following Goods

which we should be glad to ship to any desiringsuch Goods—subject to previous sale.

Ladies' French Kid Oxford Ties at $2.00, $2/25, $2.75American Kid, Oxford Ties at - 1.25, 1.50, 2.00In Ladies' Oxford Button we have French Kid, Common

Sense at - 2.00American Kid at 1,25

The above Goods are well assortedin TViclths and Sizes.

We have an American Kid, Tip, Oxford Ties, A, B, C and Dwidths, sizes 1 to 7, at $1.60

French Kid Slippers, in Opera Toe and Common Sense, fullassortment at 1.50

Ladies' French Kid, Hand Turned Button Boots at $4.00, 4.50

Full assortment of Men's Boys' and Youths' embroidered, alliga-tor and Goat slippers. Our assortment and prices were never morefavorable to the retailers than this year.

Send for sample Dozens or Pairs.Besides the above we carry a general assortment

of such goods as we make.

Nathan D. Dodge,& 124 Duane St., New York.

Factory at Newburyport, Mass. Mention the RECORDER whenCorresponding.

EDWIN £ B U R T & CO. SFINE SHOES * SLIPPERS

For Ladies and ChildrenAre the Best Shoes made and the Cheapest to buy and use

Fit^Perfectly.Easy on thejFeet.

Superior in Style.

Cost no moreThana*any other

„ , CAUTION..Genuine having the i..." r:;"*^ of

EDWIN C. BURTStamped on LINING and SOLE of

each Shoe, and are WAR-RANTED.

I'd win C Burt & Co.,150 & |52 Du^ne Street, New YorK,



BUSINESS ITEMS.

CHURCH, BROWN & Co.

"Always room at the top" says the proverb,and it is one of the truest of sayings : ap-plying to every phase of life and every branchof endeavor. The firm of which we herespeak has kept before their mind's eye theheight of business excellence and enterprise,and nothing short of this has been their aim.The result is a large and prosperous business,covering all sections of this country, from abeginning of less than eighteen months.

Their two factories, situated in North Wey-mouth and North Scituate respectively, aretaxed to their utmost to fill orders, andadditions to the manufacturing departmentare now in contemplation. The success ofthe firm in the face of the fact that "over-production" has been the cry for two yearspast, is all the more remarkable, and speakshighly for their business ability and the mer-its of their productions. A year ago thehouse had four salesmen, now there are twenty,and all busy. Among their travelers not onecan be named who has not had at least tenyears' experience as a salesman in the bootand shoe trade. The senior partner, Mr. E.H. Church, travels in parts of Indiana, Illi-nois, Kansas and Missouri. W. T. Tirrell inMichigan and California; J. W. Estabrook incities and large towns oi Ohio. J. T. Thor-ley in Michigan; R. L. Britt in Colorado andN.Mexico ;H.MJoy in Missouri and Arkansas ;L.S. Page in Tennessee and Kentucky; H. F.Jennings in Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsinand Manitoba; F. S. Elwell in the South andPennsylvania; C. A. Elwell in New York andWisconsin; F. J. McFadden in the South;Charles Treadway in Indiana; W. W. Whit-tredge in Kansas and Missouri; D. E. Dyerin Iowa; F. E. Jordan in Illinois; John Han-son in Ohio, and Jacob Rumpf in New Jer-sey. Messrs. H. H. Brown, of the firm, J.H. Prince and Gustavus Thayer look afterstore trade and visiting buyers. The spec-ialties of the house are men's, boys' andyouths' goods, and a select line of ladies' fineshoes. Retailers will find the advertisementof the firm in this issue.

THE STONEHAM CO-OPERATIVE.

We take pleasure in calling the attentionof our readers to the advertisement in thisweek's issue of the oldest co-operative shoemanufacturing concern in this country, if notin the world. Its goods take second place tonone, and its large factory at Stoneham,Mass., sends out women's, misses', children's,boys' and youths' shoes to all parts of theUnion. The company has been remarkablysuccessful, and deserves the highest testimo-nial for integrity and sound business princi-ples. Incorporated in 1873, it shows a recordof fourteen consecutive years of prosperity,during which it has earned the confidenceand secured the patronage of an ever increas-ing number of retailers located in the varioussections of the country. Its lines are solidand serviceable, warranted in every particu-lar, and adapted to the popular demand.Dealei? will do well to investigate the meritsof th^gpods made by this company. Allcorrespondence should be addressed to the

Co-operative Co., Stoneham, Mass.

Mr. S. C. Batchelder, the agent of the Com-pany, is at the Boston office, 19 Lincolnstreet, Wednesdays and Saturdays.

CROSS & BANCROFT'S SPECIALTIES.The above firm is again represented with

us by a quarter page advertisement, in whichthey call the attention of the retail tradethis week to the fact that their salesmen are'now about to visit them in varioussections of the West and South. This firmhas a well deserved reputation for makingvery stylish specialties for women and misses,which are quick sellers and suit the large me-dium class of trade. Their "Buckhorn" and'•Amaranth" goods are well known to a largenumber of retailers in various sections, andwherever they have been sold they have giventhe very best satisfaction. These with theirFrench kid and imitation French kid special-ties, as well as their American kid goods, con-stitute one of the most attractive lines forgeneral trade that can be found. Their fac-tory at Lynn, Mass., is devoted to the pro-duction of these specialties as well as a gen-eral line of goat, glove-calf and serge goods.Retailers will do well to conespond with themand obtain one of their price- lists, containinga description of over forty special shoeswhich they manufacture in lots to suit.

THE GOODYEAR MCKAY SEWING MACHINE

Co.'s FACTORY.

On page 60 of this issue the Goodyear &McKay Sewing Machine Co. show an excel-lent illustration of their factory building onFederal street, Boston. The machines in-troduced by this company have worked greatchanges in shoe manufacturing, and areamongst the most important now found infactories. In addition to the well knownGoodyear welt and turned shoe sewing ma-chines they have lately introduced a new lockstitch machine for sewing on outsoles whilethe shoes are on the last. Other machinesof importance in their way are insole andoutsoles channellers. Welt groovers and bev-ellers, welt skivers, strippers and beaters andshank skivers, all of which are made at thisfactory. Besides the shoe bottoming ma-chinery the company aie now doing a largebusiness in the Valiant Button Fly, which theymanufacture and for which they are now hav-ing a large sale. As the work of this com-pany has been of so much benefit to thetrade all will wish them every success.

FELT SHOES AND SLIPPERS.

We take pleasure in calling the attentionof our readers to the advertisement of thatwell-known house, S. Kennard & Son, Cleve-land, Ohio, which will be found on page 60.They offer a very attractive line of felt shoesand slippers in connection with their regularlines, and for which they are now having avery large sale. These goods are perfectlynoiseless, good fitting, and can be sold atlow figures. Shoe dealers in all parts of thecountry are invited to write them for samplesand prices, which they will send on applica-tion.

T H E PHILADELPHIA INSOLE CO. at 323 Arch'street, are very busy on fall orders. Theirline ib very attractive and prices very reason-able. The line contains several kinds notfound outside of this company's productions.

BEATEN OUT OF $15,000.

How a Concord Resident was Victimized by a

Confidence Man.

On Wednesday last Everett Cummings ofConcord called upon Chief Inspector Hans-com, and related a sorrowful story. Theburden of Everett's plaint was that he hadbeen beaten out of #15,000 by a confidenceman named Alden B. Damon, and the storywas, in substance, as follows : Cummings atone time owned a quarter interest in a patentknown as the "Wood Pulp Heel," which in-terest he subsequently sold to one AaronSmith. Then Damon called upon Cummingsand represented to him that James Houghtonof Lynn had secured a contract for AaronSmith, and, as provided in the contract, heagreed to deliver the same and said patent toHoughton for the sum of $17,000. Damonalso represented that he had raised the sumof $8500, and had deposited the same in theSecurity National Bank of Lynn, and throughthese specious representations Cummings wasinduced to intrust to the care and keeping ofDamon the sum of $8500.

About the 1st of September Mr. Damoncalled again on Mr. Cummings and told himhe had* a better customer in a person by thename of M. W. Furbush of Philadelphia,who agreed to take the patent and pay $108,-000, but he would not be able to take it tillDecember 6. He said that Furbush had put#50,000 in the hands of William M. Hale,and that he (Damon) must raise $25,000, tobe also deposited in Hale's hands to be usedas a forfeit if either party failed to carry outhis part of the contract. Some time afterMr. Damon called en Mr. Cummings andsaid that he had consulted counsel, and wasadvised that said deposit was not legal;that both parties must deposit the sameamount of money or Furbush could take ad-vantage, as he ha'd put in the most money,and that he (Damon) must raise the other$25,000. Cummings claims that Damon gotin all about $15,000. Damon was arrestedon Hanover street about 10 o'clock Fridayforenoon by Chief Hanscomb and InspectorsMahoney and Mountain.

Aaron F. Smith of Lynn, who bought Mr.Cummings' quarter interest in the wood pulpheel patent, was much surprised at the state-ment made by Damon to Mr. Cummings.Mr. Smith, who is one of Lynn's largest shoemanufacturers and solid financial men, neverhad any dealings with Damon in relation tothe wood pulp heel patent. He has a vagueidea that Damon was at one time located inLynn, where he sold heels, stiffeners, etc.Mr. Cummings visited Lynn a day or two ago,and ascertained that Damon's representationsin regard to what he could do were based onfiction. The officials of the National Se-curity Bank in Lynn told Mr. Cummings thatDamon never had a cent on deposit there.James Houghton of Lynn and Walter Hale,A. F. Smith's foreman, never had anything todo with Damon, as he reports. Mr. Smithexpresses surprise that Mr. Cummings shouldhave been duped to such an extent. No oneappears to know Damon in Lynn, and hisname does not appear in the city directory.

Alden B. Damon is a resident of Charles-town, where he lives with his wife and child,



WE DESIRE TO CALL THE ATTENTION OF

Shoe Manufacturers, Shoe DealersAnd Wearers of Shoes,

TO OUR PATENTED

IBUL-E INSOLE

we a re

now

Offering"

to the

Trade.

This sole is made trom THE BEST OF OAK-TANNED LEATHER, and FLAX, and is cemented together. The leather is placedon the side next to the foot; the flax on the bottom side. We believe, and it has been the unqualified expression of ALL manufacturerswho have used or seen it, that it is the best Flexible Insole that has ever been put into a Shoe. We claim this sole to be superior to anyother for the following reasons, viz :

It is LEATHER. It combines BOTH FIRMNESS and FLEXIBILITY. It is WATERPROOF. It is "ANTI-SQUEAK." Itis impossible for it to CUT THE UPPER, as it makes a PERFECT "FEATHER" EDGE. It makes a PERFECT AND SOLIDHEEL SEAT. It can be SEWED CLOSER TO THE EDGE than any other sole. It being leather, shoes having this sole CAN BEREPAIRED. It makes the SHOE MORE COMFORTABLE THAN THE FINEST HAND-SEWED OR TURNED SHOE. Itis adapted to MEN'S, WOMEN'S, MISSES' and CHILDREN'S SHOES. IT ADDS MATERIALLY to the WEAR OF A SHOE.

HALE, I.AI 1,011> & CO., Selling Ageuts, 48 & 50 South St., BOSTON.

THE GREATEST ECONOMIZEROF THE AGE.

Sole Leather Scraps Heretofore Con-sidered Worthless Utilized by

THE TYLER-BRADFORDII

Examine these Illustrations.

Endorsed by Leading1 Manufacturers,Scrap before Splitting. Teo small for use. Scrap Split, will make a Heel Lift*

Our Machines are Light, Durable and can be operated by a Boy Theyare worth their weight in Gold to any

Boot or Shoe Manufacturer.TERMS REASONABLE.

Ill I ll-lilillitiillli H I Hi No. 50 South Street, Boston, las s .



Damon's native place is said to be Rowley.He is a man of about 30 years of age, andfor several years he has been in the businessof selling heel st >ck and heels, having oper-ated a store irj, Boston, a portion of the timebeing alone ami some of the time with hisbrother Bernard, the firm being Damon Bros.,46 Lincoln street, although he has not beenassociated with his brother in business for thepast several months, it is thought. Cum-mings, who for some years was engaged inthe leather business at Ayer, is located at 50Lincoln street, Boston, and for some time pasthis business there has been manufacturingand dealing in leather. On account of thetrouble between Damon and Cummings, thelatter's property has been attached, and akeeper placed in his Boston store, not in theinterest of creditors, as published, but of onecreditor whose claim is about $700. It wasabout six months ago that Damon was intro-duced to Cummings by a business acquaint-ance, who represented Damon as being asquare and reliable man. There seems nodoubt that the trouble has worn heavily on themind of Mr. Cummings for some time past,and both he and his wiie evidently feel verybitter toward Damon. Since his arrest Da-mon has promised Cummings he would makegood at least a portion of the money withina week, if given an opportunity, so it is stated,and, as he has many business acquaintancesin Boston, some believe that he would do so.What the arrested party has done with theamount claimed in the complaint is a ques-tion.

ROCKLAND HAND-SEWERS.

The Decision of the State Board ot Arbitra-tion in the Matter.

The State Board of Arbitration gives the fol-lowing decision in the matter of the Rocklandcompany of Rockland and its employes :

This application was filed Sept. 9, 18S7. TheRockland company is a corporation engaged inthe business of manufacturing boots and shoes.About a fortnight before the application was re-ceived the hand-sewers struck for higher wagesfor sewing on welts. After some ineffectual at-tempts by the parties to settle the difficulty bythemselves, the board put itself in communica-tion with both sides, and by its mediation suc-ceeded in prevailing upon the workmen to returnto their former employment, and both employerand employes jointly submitted for the decisionof this board all the differences existing betweenhem.

A public hearing-was Had, which was followedby careful inquiries pursued in other shops mak-ing goods of a like grade with those manufac-tured b\ the Rockland company in the depart-ment in question. These are goods of a highgrade, and are claimed by the company to beequal to those of any other manufacturer in thestate.

In most of the shops that have come underour notice the threads are made by the work-men, but here the company, for reasons which itdeems well founded, prefers to furnish threadsprepared by machine. These threads, however,the workmen must complete by waxing them andputting on the bristles, and the men are not will-ing to admit that it is any advantage to them tohave the threads furnished as above described.Without expressing any opinion upon this par-ticular point, there can certainly be no valid ob-jection to the employer's furnishing these threadsifhecho6es to do so in order to obtain betterresults, or for any reason ; and the following pricesfor sewing on welts are hereby recommended,with the understanding that the threads are to befurnished by the employer, as is now done :

Per pair.Plain toe, 3J2 stitches per inch, 21 centsCap toe 3)'z stitches per inch, 22},' centsPlain toe and box, 3 ^ stitches per inch, 24 centsCap toe and box, y/2 stitches per inch, 24 cents

WESTON LEWIS,

RICHARD P. BARRY.

CHARLES H. WAI.COTT.

FAITHFUL SERVICES THE BEST POLICY.There is no more abominable heresy than

that contained in the creed of very many fac-tory workers, office assistants and retailers'clerks, who not infrequently are heard to ex-claim, "Well, I do as much work as I getpaid for., anyhow.' The principle involvedin this line of theorizing is not only con-temptibly mean, but it is positively dishonestalso. When a man engages to work for an-other at a stipulated price per week, be thepay $8 a week or #20, or more or less, bemorally agrees to give six days' faithful, hon-est work, and wherein he falls short of ren-dering such an equivalent for the wages orsalary that was mutually agreed upon, in sofar he robs his employer. And leaving outthe moral question altogether, it is the verypoorest kind of policy to idle away an em-ployer's time, and neglect and slight work onthe pitiful plea that inadequate wages are paidfor the services demanded and expected.When one is dissatisfied with the terms hehas made with his employer, and fails in mak-ing a more advantageous or satisfactory ar-rangement, common sense and honesty woulddemand that he give a reasonable notice of

an intention to quit work and seek elsewherea more profitable situation. It is undoubtedlytrue that neglecting and shirking work be-cause one's salary is deemed too small willalways result in a failure to procure advance-ment i.nd increase of wages, from the sim-ple fact that the observing employer is al-ways informed how much work an employeperforms and how well and thoroughly it isaccomplished. It is only by a faithful dis-charge of every duty and by making himselfinvaluable to his employer that a workman orclerk can reasonably hope for or expect apreferment and an increased pecuniary com-pensation.—Exchange.

The Brockton shoe factories, with one ortwo exceptions, will close Wednesday night,not to open again until next Monday morn-ing. This is on account of its being fairweek.

WARNING!We are the absolute owners of all of the

original Letters Patent on a machine for at-taching Heel Plates to Rubber Shoes, and onLASTS or DIES, for starting and bendingthe prongs or nails of the plate. We shallPROMPTLY bring suit against ANY ONEusing ANY infringement of our Letters Pat-ent in the United States, Canada or England.Any party using our machine will confer aspecial favor by reporting to us ON SHORTNOTICE any infiingements on our LettersPatent that are being used.

Crescent Heel Plate Mfg. Co.,105 X- 111 Summer Street, Boston. Mass.

Yegiard, Langslow & Curry,7 & 9 GRIFFITHS ST.,

Rochester, TV:

-.MANUFACTURERS OF-

LADIES' AND MISSES' FINE SHOES.HAND TURNS. HAND WELT.

McKAY FLEXIBLE.

FOOT MIRRORS.EVERY SHOE DEALER SHOULD HAVE ONE.

SHOE STORE SCREENS.The Handsomest Hhoe Htore Ornament.

For illustrated circulars and price list write, at the same time mention the RECORDER, to

DENZI & PHILLIPS, 2 4 DEY ST, NEW YORK-



RubberTRADE MARK.

Do yon want something entirely different from the general line of Rubber Goods?

If so, call and see those made by the celebrated Goodyear

: GLOVE RUBBER COMPANY,Of New York, expressly for the Retail Trade. Rubbers .to fit all kinds ofShoes,—high heels, loir heels, wide toes, narrow toes, in fact,

styles to fit anything you want. Everything the Correct Style. The Goods cost no more than any first-class Goods. Do not be deceived by other Goods bearing the word

t( GOODYEAR "On the soles, but see that our Trade Mark is upon every Shoe,—none genuine without it. We make afull assortment of everything, packed in the'usual manner,—regular list discount, 40 per cent. We alsomake a very fine line of P U R E R U B B E R S P E C I A L T I E S , put up in cartons, regular listat 30 per cent.

We should be pleased to show the Goods or send Sample Cases, and if you will describe the Shoeto be fitted,, we can send the Rubber you wish.

LAMKIN & FOSTER,Sole New England Agents. 174 & 176 CONGRESS ST., BOSTON

JB®-A1SO a General Jobbers' Line of LEATHER BOOTS and SHOES.-^a

PACKARD GROYER'SIMPROTED SEAMLESS

$2,99THE KING OF SPECIALTY SHOES.

These Goods are Made to Order and Shipped Promptly. Customers are always sure to receive fresh Goods, madeexactly as ordered, and as quickly as orders are ordinarily filled from stock. No orders accepted for less than one dozen pairs ofa kind. To Dealers who do not wish to handle advertised Shoes, we will furnish them without the stamp on the bottoms, and will putlabels on cartons with Dealer's name instead of ours. Send for Sample Dozen.

Made with fine Calf Seamless Vamps, best Dongola Kid Tops (with crimped fronts in Congress and worked holes in Button), SolidLeather Counters and bottom stock, stitched throughout with Belding Silk and warranted in every respect. Made in Button, Balmoral andCongress, four widths and half sizes, Opera, London, Globe or French Toe, or Waukenphast Last, plain or tipped.

Price, $27.00 per doz., net, 30 days. Discount, $1.00 per doz., 10 days.

Manufacturers of Wens', Boys' and Youths' Calf, drain, Flesh Split and Buff Shoes,OF AIX GRADES AND PRICES.

BROCKTON, MASS. Boston Office & Salesroom, 19 Lincoln StreetAddress all Correspondence to Brockton. Mass. Mention T H E RECORDER.


October 5, 1887.]THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER 87

sew m a n y

No Retail Shoe Dealer, Shoemaker,

or Cobbler, can afford to be without

this machine.

Send ffcr descriptive circular and

list of testimonials from some of the

leading Shoe Dealers in the United

States.

To responsible patties who have

not seen the "Bradbury," we are

willing to send a machine on 10

da 7s' approval, with the under-

standing if it does mot work to their

entire satisfaction, they may return

the machine at our expense.

BEIVJ. F. BUNLAF, Importer and Sole Agent, 245 Broadway, New York.

BLACKBDRK BROS,, General Agents, 205 Late St., Chicago. H. CAMPBELL & CO., Beneral Agents. 47 Union St., Boston.

NOTHING CAN EQUAL HAND-SEWED!COMFORT, STYLE AND WEAR, sszrWe make this Crade a Specialty in Our

GENTLEMEN'S FINE FOOTWEAR!

We also make HAND WELTS, GOODYEAR WELTS and MCKAY SEWED, in all styles for fine trade.

STACY, ADAMS & CO., Brockton, Mass.York Store, 142 Duane Street. Boston Office, 98 Summer St.



WANTS, FOR SALE, ETC.

ADVERTISING RATES.Wants, For Sale, To Let, &c. will be advertised in this de-

partment at the following reasonable scale, 15 cents per line firstinsertion, 10 cents per line each additional insertion. No adver-tisement inserted foriess than 50 cents. Eight words make oneline. Shoe Dealers who desire to dispose of Stores, manufacur-ers in want of Salesmen, Persons wanting Situations andFactories For Sale or To Let, will find the "Recorder" a verydesirable paper to use.

KARE OPPORTUNITYTO ONE DBSIRINC A RETAIL SHOE STORE.

To a party desiring to males a good investment a retail shoestore in a thriving city in Dakota is offered for sale. The cityis a railroad center with a population of 12,000 to 14,000, andonly two (a) other shoe stores in the place. Stock is new.Owner has other business and cannot attend to both. Mannow in chatge could be employed, if wanted, to run the store.Address Z 144, care Boot and Shoe Recorder, 82 Lincolnstreet, Boston.

SALESMEN WANTED.

On commission to sell in connection with other lines not con-flicting, a complete line of children's and infants' shoes throughOhio, Indiana, and parts of Illinois and Iowa. Spring samplesare ready. Trade partly established. Address, srating territorytraveled, A. E. Brown & Co., Orwigsburg, Pa.

SALESMEN WANTED.

To sell a fine line of women's and misses' machine-sewed andhand-sewed turns through the South on commission. Address"C," care Sherwood & Rumsey, Rochester, N. Y.

NOTICE TO MANUFACTURERS.Having closed my commission business, would like a posi-

tion with some first-class shoe manufacturer. Address ClareA. Benedict, Pullman Building, Chicago, 111.

SITUATIONBy a young man twenty-three years of age, a position in

either a wholesale or retail boot and shoe store; has had threeyears experience in whole>ale house. Best of references. Ad-dress Z 145. Boot and Shoe Recoider, 82 Lincoln street, Bos ten

SITUATION WANTED.As traveling salesman for a boot and shoe house, by a young

man; fifteen years' experience in handling fine toods. Bestof references. AdJress J. H. Stewart, Box 64, Pascoag, K. I,

TO BOOT MANUFACTURERS AND OTHERS.For sale; Two valuable U. S. Patents, recently granted.

One a boot leg that requires no turning. It lasts more easilyand saves one hour in getting up. Canadian patents also forsale. Address John T. Gray, Patentee, Box 227, Simcoe, Oat.,Canada.

SALESMAN WANTED.One first-class shoe salesman for each of the following st ites,

Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Missouri, Vir-ginia. Weal Virginia, Kentucky and Tennessee. Only expe-rienced salesmen need apply. Address Gallaher, Kiuelmau &Fox, Wilmington, Del. <

SHOE STORE WANTKD.I want to buy a retail btfot and shoe store, with clean sto ck

not to invoice more than $8,000. Must be in a good live townof not less than 5,000 population, and where the business isnot overdone. Address J. F. Lacock, Salinesville, Ohio.

WANTED.Salesmen on commission to handle a selected lineof'Pres-

cott's Standard Slippers" and "Old Ladies' Comforts" made es-pecially for the Western retail trade in solid goods. AddressArthur Prescott, Haverhilll, Mass.

MHOti STORE FOR SALE.A rare chance to purchase an A No. 1 boot and shoe stock in

a manufacturing town of over 23,000 with the best of railroadfacilities, within 150 miles of Chicago; no large town within 20miles; best farming country in the state. Annual sales nearly$25,000. Strictly cash and one-price; stock in prime condition.Poor health reason for selling. Address Z 138, care Recorder,32 Lincoln street, Boston.

WANTED,Shoe Salesmen visiting the retail trade*in any section of the

country, who would like to do a little business by which theycan make $8 to $12 per week extra, may address as below, giveing full name and address, firm you arc with, and in what Statevou travel. All will be strictly confidential. Address, '"Joas,"care Boot and Shoe Recorder, 82 and 84 Lincoln St., Boston.

SITUATION WANTED.A situation in a retail shoe store, as buyer, manager or

salesman, best ol reference furnished; eleven years'experience.Address Shoe Salesman, P. O. Box 725, Johnstown, Pa.

SHOE STORE FOR SALE.A firet-class shoe store, good trade, good standard fixtures.

A good chance for a bargain. Population of city 8,000. Ad-dress Box 74, Winfield, Kansas.

FOR SALE.Shoe store near Boston. Well-established, good location,

low rent, cash sale. Stock and fixtures about $3,000. Forsale because owner is in another business. Address D. L.,aare Letter Carrier 50, Boston, Mass.

FOR SALE.Thirty shares of Shnrpsvitte Boot and Shoe Co. fLimited)

of Sharpsville, Mercer County, Pa. A good chance fora liveman. Reasons for selling, money needed in other business.Factory running steady, with plenty of orders ahead. Ad-dress Box 442, New Brighton, Blarer County, Pa.

TO SHOE MANUFACTURERS.

FACTORY WITH WATER POWFR.

Main line shaftings, steam boiler and pipes, ten thousandsquare feet floor space. To let at low rent. Six trains daily toBoston. For further information address Lock Box 4)5, La-conia, N. H.

Women's Kid Shoes for $1.25.The best shoe for $1.25 you ever saw. Genuine Kid Button,'

All Solid, Glove Top, Box Toe, D and E Wide, in single car-tons. Sample sent to any address for $1.50. Also a Woman'sSerge Cong. Gaiter, at $6.30 Dozen, M. S. Sample sent anywhere foi 65c. Address, H. E. BUCK, Canisteo, N. Y.

G. U. P A R K E R . W. D. JOHNSON.

Parker & Johnson,COMMERCIAL BROKERS,

Agents for Manufacturers. Headquarters forCommercial Men.

904 Penn. Ave., N. W. Washington, D. C.

L. B. CAHILL,Cash buyer of Bankrupt and Assignment Stocks of

BOOTS AND SHOES.Correspondence solicited with parties having stocks for

saOffice 49 Third St., Middletown, Ohio.

All the Fancy Styles of the Season.London, Opera, Derby,Grecian, Light Leather Box Toes,

Solid Leather, Leather Board.

ALL VARIETIES, LADIES' AND GENTS'.Make a Specialty of Fine Work.

4E9" Send your Last for Sample Lot. S&

BAXENDALE * CO.Brockton, Mass.

James B. O ' f cHOSPITAL LIFE BUILDING,

50 State St., - Room 78.BOSTON.

Broker in

I M S ABE MISCELLANEOUS

m m 111 BONDS.-MEMBER-

Boston Mining and Stock Exchange.

RUBBERS!ANTI • COMBINATION, FIBS* QUALITY.

Having received a Large Consignment, we offer themFOR CASH at

60 PERCJ. OFF!L. B. Mantoiya I Co.,

Wholesale Commission Soots and Shoes,

227, 229, 231 Adams Street,

CHICAGO.Merchants looking for SPECIAL BARGAINS. calUnd see

us or send for our ILLUSTRATED PRICE-LISJT.

SHOE SOFA OR SETTEE.Made to suit Shoe Trade only. Upholstered in Leather,

Plush or Haircloth. Length, 6 feet. Price, $22.00 to $27 00.Write for cut and full description.

EXCELSIOR FURNITURE CO.,Kockford, . . . Illinois

DATCMTOI THOMAS W. SIMPSON. 'F A I L l l I p ! Washington, D. C. No pay asked farpatent until obtained. Write for inventor's guide.

Ill 1 i l T r n All inventors to know that we make no aarge forTV A l l I LUi obtaining patents until alter the patent is ACTU-ALLY ALLOWED. Over thirty years' experience. Send for book.

C. A. SHAW & CO., 11 Court Street. Boston.

lATENTS. PROMPT WORK.MODERATE FEES.P U. S. and Foreign procured. Trade Marks and Labels

registered. 15 years experience; 4 years Examiner inU. S. Patent Qffice. Patents in this line of inventionssecured through me, receive free description in this

paper. Send model or sketch of your invention forFREE opinion whether patent can be secured and new book onpatents, citing recent court decisions. Mention this paper.

Patents obtained for shoe or leather men, will be illustratedand described in the RBCORPBR. •

E. B. STOCKING, opp. Patent Office, Washington. D. C.

D I E 5 S H O E S

J B LEW IS.B05TON MASSA T $2 0.40 PER DOZEN.

BUFFALO LAST WORKS,BUFFALO, N. Y.

WHOLESALE MANUFACTURERS OF

LAOf Every Description.

Boot, Shoe, Display .Gaiter and Fitters' Trees, Crimps, Clamps,Toe and Instep Stretchers, Clog So'es, Pasting Blocks,

Dressers, Boot and Peg Jacks, Signs and Crimp •Screws. Deformities fitted. Superior Goods

only, and prompt service. ,

Lasts for Manufacturers of Boots and Shoe*made from t i m b e r t h r e e years seasoned,

and Steel used for bottoms.



CLOSED-

U. S. Bull Dog Boot Jack.THE LATEST NOVELTY su^zs Air SIGHZ

Japanned, - . $3.OO per doz. Nickeled., - ^4.00 per doz.

-EDWARD E. SPENCER & CO., ^ . - A ^ f c l l i i York.

ROBERT D. SMITH,

Don't forget the place — the name is easy enough. Shoe store supplies in great variety. In factwe keep everything in that line. P R I C E S A R E R I G H T . Six floors packed full of Dress-ings, Blackings, Insoles, Laces, Buttons, Fasteners, Cut Leather, Cements, Hooks, Horns, ToolsTacks, Twine, etc., etc., etc. DON'T R E A F R A I D TO ASK F O R W H A T YOIJWMT.

ESTABLISHED 1855. Ladies', Misses' and Children'sSHOES.

MORKOW SHOE

HAND AND MACHINE MADE Grades in Ladies* Shoes,

$1.75 to $4.50 per pair.are the only manufacturers who use the IMPROVED

FLEXIBLE INSOLE in machine made shoes. No Tacks,Nails or Waxed Thread to hurt the feet.

OUR SHOES FIT TO PERFECTION.SAMPLE LOTS SENT ON APPROVAL,.

Will send on request a H a n d s o m e baft relief S ign in gold, silverand bronze (similar to cut), on first orders, 5 doz. or more.

CO., 41 & 43 Warren St.. Hew York.

William H. H. Laws,Cincinnati, Ohio.

MANUFACTURERS' AGENTSFOR SALE OF

Boots, Shoes and RubbersAlso Hold Auction Sales Every Tuesday.


90 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5,

BOSTON.BOOTS AND SHOES.

The demand for fall goods is holding up welland although it is about time the work wathrough at the factories, there is a good dealyet to be done and supplementary orders arestill coming. There is an active demand formade up goods, but comparatively few factorieshave much to offer in this line having kepclosely to orders. Boots are still wanted, theorders being if anything a little in excess offormer years. Both heavy boots and calfboots are wanted, and the factories are doingtheir best to meet the demand. Split goods arealso having a good call, and the improvement inthe style of these lines make them popular forlow priced lines. Brogans are still called for,there being a good show of unfilled orders onhand. Calf shoes are moving in..good volume,the trade with most manufacturers being in ex-cess of their expectations. Women's graingoods have had a large sale, and orders are stillcoming freely for the better grades. Slippersare active, with an urgent call for prompt de-livery. The spring trade is making good pro-gress. The salesmen have had fair success withthe jobbers, and orders enough have been se-cured to give the factories a good start as soonas they can commence on the work. Prices aresteady and there is little pressure for lower fig-ures from the jobbers. The latter are coming tomarket early this season, and the tendency is toplace their orders early and avoid the delay thatsome have experienced during the past season.

Rubbers are active and the best companies arewell sold up in their productions. Retailers areurgent in their calls for supplies for immediateuse, and the forwardings are large.

LEATHER.Trade continues fair in all lines. Manufact-

urers are buying cautiously as usual, and somecontracts are being made for supplies to coverthe orders taken for spring lines. Prices aresteady and it seems impossible to get up anyspeculative feeling.

HEMLOCK SOLE.—A little better demand isreported and more movement, Plump gradeslead in the demand and prices rule steady. Wequote:

LightMiddlOver zoGood dam 18Boor dam 16

LightMiddle . . .Heavy. . . .Damaged .

Buenos AyresPrime non-acid.

•. .19 @2o

Buffalo.

19

»5

13@I7015

Acid andCom. hide18 @I919 @2O19 @2O16 @I7

UNION TANNED".—There is an inquiry forstock for spring work and a fair call for presentwants. The tendency in prices is firmer.

Backs. Crops.39 1830 25 1S26 Bellies rolled.. 13 915 'ai}i&3o 26 @aj " rough..14 @n)4a8%03O 97 828 Heads 12 &13

26327^ 24 ©26

ROUGH LEATHER.—There is an improved de-mand and a fair business in the choice.lightweights. Rough splits are in fair demand andsteady.

We quote: Glove grain, 2^'A@2c;c; peb-

ble, 22@24C for No. 1 and 2i@22c for No2; card leather, 25@26c; belting and harnessleather, [email protected] cropping leather. 2o_j£@2icgood damaged light weights, 2o@2ic; bullsi7@i9c; Southern leather, 22@23c; roughsplits, i5>£@i6#c for belt9 and I7@i8c toruuions.

ROUGH CALFSKINS.—There is a better de-mand and prime skins sell quickly. Prices area shade firmer. We quote choice light, 34@35C;ordinary, 3o@32c; heavy, 26@27C.

ROUGH SHEEPSKINS.—Choice grades of stockare selling well, while the lower grades are dull.Tanned skins are steady.

FINISHED UPPER.—There is a moderate de-mand for heavy upper, but the tall work is clos-ing up and the inquiry now is more tor the lightergrades for spring goods. Stocks are rather smalland prices are maintained quoting, African andMontevideo leather, I4j£@i5c for No. I andI2^@i3 for No. 2. Rio Grand brogan steadyat i6j£@i7c for No. 1; I5@i6 for No. 2.

Boot grain is in moderate demand at [email protected] Western, i6@i7c for Eastern. Plow shoegrain, I6@I8C for Western, i^}4@is}4c for East-ern.

Grain leather is in fair demand at I3@i4^cfor No. 1 glove; nj£@i2c for light pebble; 12@I3C for heavy.

Buff is fairly active in the heavy and mediumgrades with some call for light, quoting, light,I2j£@i4c; medium, I4@i5^c; heavy, 15® 17c.

Finished splits are in moderate demand forcrimpers and heavy lines and a fair call for flesh.We quote light flesh, $o@55c; heavy,, ^@4"?c; heavy crimpers, 23@26c: bootbacks, 27®33c; shoe splits, 26@3oc; juniors, 2o@28c.

FINISHED CALFSKINS.—The demand is mod-erate with preference for medium weights. Wequote best tannages, 8oc@$i.00; ordinary tan-nage finished, 7o@85c; rough finished, 5o@55c;heavy, 4o@47c.

MOROCCO AND KID.—A good trade is reportedin regular lines. Giazed kids are active andspecial lines are having more call.

HIDESA little more movement is reported in hides,,

but the general feeling in foreign hides is stilldull. Tanners have been curtailing lately andare not taking so many hides. The quotationsremain buenos Ayres, I8@I8XC; Montevideo,i8@i8j£c; Rio Grande, i7@i7#c; Corientes,17c; Cordova kips 17®20c; River Plate, 17®19c; China hides, 13® 15c.

Domestic hides are quiet as to demand. West-rn holders ask 8X@8Xc which is a little above

buyers views here, and there is but little move-ment in consequence. B and No. 2 selectionsare dull. New England hides are steady at 9®^ c for steers, 8@8^c for cows. Southern

hides are steady at 14^0 for dry; 8@8Xc torsalted. Calfskins are quiet with fair stocks.We quote deacons, 3o@4oc; light, 8 to 9 lbs,9oc@$i.oo; heavy, $i.oo@$i.io.

Goatskins are in fair demand and steady. Kidtock is active and firm. Tanned goat and sheep

are steady and firm.

NEWJTORK.BOOTS AND SHOES.

There is more or less talk about spring .sam-les and discussion of styles, but for the present

the factories have all they can attend to in theunfinished fall oiders. The demand is urgent

and dealers want the goods as soon as possible. Inmen's wear the plain styles have the preferencewith more of the patent kid used for topprng.In women's lines a little more ornamentation »noticeable with glazed kid and patent leathercombinations. Salesmen are generally anxiousto get started with fall samples, and anotherweek or two will find the majority on the road.There is an active demand tor slippers in thefancy styles for holiday trade. This trade hasbecome an important feature and dealei6 wantthe goods to show on their shelves by the 1st ofNovember. The jobbing trade is having a rushin forwarding the orders and attending to thevisiting buyers. The auction houses also reporta good trade with a good attendance of buyersand a free movement. f

Rubbers are active with calls from the dealerswho have delayed ordering, but who are rioWiha hurry for their goods. Prices rule firm.

LEATHER. «

There is an active demand for leather neededfor finishing the fall work on hand. Dealers areable to offer a fair assortment and prices rulesteady. There is some call for best grades forspring samples.

Palen, Nelson & Co.'s circular gives the re-ceipts for the week 87,894 sides hemlock and 18,-268 sides oak and union. The exports were 27-149 sides, of which 1,150 went to England, 19.900 to the Continent and 99 to various points.

HEMLOCK SOLE.—The demand continues fairfrom manufacturers and also for export. Stocksare somewhat reduced and there is a firm feelingin prices. We quote Buenos Ayres, non-acid,light, I9^@2oc; middle, 2O^@2ic; commonhide, i8^@2oc; damaged, I5@i6c; Calcuttabuffalo, I5j£@i6c.

UNION TANNED.—There is a good demandtor middle weights and plump selections withlimited stocks. Heavy weights are also activewith prices firm. We quote light backs, 29®30c; middle, 28j£@3oc; heavy, 28^@3oc; sec-onds, 2o@27c; crop, 25@27c; bellies, 13®I3#c.

OAK SOLE.—Good plump grades are wantedwith scant supply and prices firm both in sides

and backs.FINISHED UPPER.—Wax and kip are having a

fair sale and steady. Buff is moderately active.rain is selling well and firm. Finished splits

are in good request for best grades.FINISHED CALFSKINS.—The demand is mostly

for medium with some call for light and heavy.Prices steady. Imported calfskins are sellingairly in the light and medium weights in best

tannages.MOROCCO AND KID.—Medium weights and

cheap grades of brush kid and pebbles continuen active request with prime grades »low. Do-

mestic glazed kids are active and closely sold up.French glazed kids are selling fairly in the bestknown brands. Patent kids are having a goodsteady demand. Mat kid is in limited demand.

alf kid is dull.Cordovan is active. Alligator leather is selling

well. Kangaroo is active and closely sold up.Patent leather is having a steady demand.

HIDES.The market is steady and there is a fair amount

of business doing, though as a rule tanners aredisposed to limit production. More sale9 ofRiver Plate hides are being made at presentprices which are considered low. We quoteBuenos Ayres, i8#c ; Montevideo, i8#c; Rio


October 5, 1887] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

Qrande, i6@i7#c; California, i 7 # c ; CentralAmerican, 14<§ 17.

Pickard & Andresen's circular reports thereceipts tor the week 35,353 hides and 6obalesCalcutta buffalo. The stock on hand is givenat 342,600 hidesand kips,and 1,809 bales Calcuttabuffalo and cow against 354,600 hides and kips,and 2,584 bales Calcutta buffalo and cow lastyear.

Domestic hides are steady with sales of cityslaughter 6teers at 9c and cows 7^@8c.

Goatskins are quiet with market favoringburers. Deerskins are in good demand at^ullprices.

HYDE PARK, VT.

Mr. Carrol S. Page in his Oct. 1,circular says:The green calf skin market is substantially un-changed. We are able to note a continuedhealthy demand for light weight stock, and forstrictly choice selections fair prices are obtain-able.

Heavy skins, say weighing above 8 pounds,trimmed, or 10 pounds, untrimmed, are dull andstocks con tin ne ample.

The unprecedently low prices which hair skinshave touched, have led to a considerable demandfor purposes for which other material has here-tofore been used. Especially is this true withreference to light skins for which the marketha6 somewhat improved since our last issue.

Heavy skins, unless extra fine and choice, con-tinue unsalable except at prices substantiallylevel with those of heavy hides. -:

CHICAGO.

BOOTS AND SHOES.With plenty of wet weather through the West

dealers who have not their fall goods in store areterribly anxious and are burdening the mailsand telegraphs with their urgent requests andcomplaints. The jobbers have supplied thebulk of the trade but are kept busy with suppli-mentary orders and late buyers. - Dealers arewell satisfied with the business prospects sofai, and intimate that they will wan (^.additionalsupplies a little later. The jobbers have foundtime to place some good orders with the East-ern salesmen for spring lines, and 6ome of thefirms already have representatives in Boston tohurry up late orders for fall goods and arrangefor the regular spring 6Upply. The Western fac-tories have considerable work on hand, and willhave calls for duplicates tor some weeks to come,their sales being to the dealers direct. Handsewed work is having a good call and the bettergrades of machine-sewed with smooth innersolesare gaining in favor.

In rubbers the slow dealers are rushing aroundto get their orders filled, and it is evident that inthe beet grades there will be no surplus if in-deed a shortage is not developed. Prices rulevery firm.

LEATHER.

The market rules steady with moderate de-mand mostly in small lots. Stocks are fair forthe present, but there has been some decreaseand the tanners are slacking up in their work.No material changes are looked for at presentand tanners continue to hope for better thingsin the future.

SOLE LEATHER.—There is a fair movementin hemlock sole with plump grades wanted andrather scarce. The common lines are in good

supply and easy in price. Union tanned is quite.active particulary in the plump lines. Middlebacks are also in demand with prices firm. Oaksole is strong at the recent advances and stocksare limited.

UPPER LEATHER.—There is a moderate de-mand for upper leather outside .of.the regularforwardings of best lines on previous contracts.The call is largely for second grades. Lightupper is quiet. IJoot and plow shoe grains arein moderate demand and steady. Oil grain ishaving a good steady demand. Pebble andglove grains are selling fairly and steady inprices.

FINISHED CALFSKINS.—The Eastern demandholds pretty steady for medium weights, andthere is a fair local trade. Light and heavyweights are quiet.

SHEEPSKINS.—There is a pretty good demandfor linings and topping s'ock with only moder-ate stocks. Imitation kids are active. Pricessteady.

HIDES.The market rules steady in prices and quiet

in its tone. The receipts from the country arefair and may be expected to increase with thecold weather. Tanners buy more from neces-sity than choice to keep moving and are notpushing their production. In light hides thestocks are moderate and sales are mostly toWestern tanners, the Eastern men being dissat-isfied with the prices. The quotations are 8Xcfor No. 1 buff; 7>£c for B's; 6 # c for No. 2,The latter lines are dull. Heavy hides are hav-ing a fair movement at steady prices, quotingsteers, 9@9^c; heavy cows, 7&c@8c«

Packer hides are in moderate demand. Buyersare working for lower prices in Texas hides,being encouraged by the liberal cattle receipts.The quotations at present are: heavy Texassteers, 9>£c; light, 8X@8j£c. Native steersare firm,the supply in this line being limited asthe killing is mostly Texas and Western cattle.Native steers are selling i o ^ c for heavy; g}4cfor light; butt branded, 9>£c; cows, g@g%c.

Calfskins are quiet and prices fairly steady,quoting 9c for 8 to I2lb; 8>£c for 8 to i5lbs; No.2,. 6}£@7c.

Dry hides are dull and tending easierin prices.The quotations are: Indian trimmed. H ^ c ;New Mexican, I3>£@i3%c; Colorado and Mon-tana,. I2@i2)£c', California, 14c.

PHILADELPHIA.BOOTS AND SHOES.

The factories are all busy with the orders onhand. The season's business has been verygood and manufacturers are pleased with thenumber of duplicate orders. The spring sam-ples are being pushed as fast as possible andsalesmen are waiting to start. Samples willshow but little change, the Philadelphia manu-facturers being eminently conservative and hold-ing to the lines that have proved popular. Thetendency is more in the direction of the finegrades, though medium lines are also in de-mand. The jobbing trade is active, all lines offall goods being in demand. In fact the jobbersfind their 6tocks none too large. The auctionhouses also report a good business from thelocal and near-by trade with tair prices realized.

LEATHER.The market rules 6teady with a fair demand

from the manufacturers. Stocks are moderateand there is a stronger tendency in some lines

Oak sole is firmer at the advances and thereappears to be a decrease in the supply. Oakheads and bellies are selling slowly and the cur-rent prices are barely realized. For scoured oakbacks an active demand exists, especially heavyweights. In hemlock leather liberal sales havebeen made at full prices. For calf kid the de-mand continues quiet. Dongola is in fair re-quest at the current rates. In morocco tradingis scarely so brisk as was anticipated for someunknown reason, and what demand there is is forwinter footwear. Orders for small parcels forthe cutting out of spring samples are frequentbut it is too early yet to expect any activity inthis direction.

RUBBER MARKET.

A, good steady demand is reported from themanufacturers, and dealers are evidently willingto sell. Increased receipts are reported at Para,and sales to arrive are made at 69c for fine and49c for coarse, though present stocks are held at70c and 5 0 c The arrivals of the pa6t week were375 tons, nearly all sold to arrive. CentralAmerican and African giades are steady withfair movement.

We quote cash prices: Fine Para, 70c;Coarse, 50c; Nicaragua scrap and sheet, 53@54c;Esmeralda sausage, 56c; pressed Guaya-quil, 49@5oc; Panama, 45c; Carthagena, 42c;African small ball, 36c; do soft ball, 32c; Congoball, 48c; dp thimbles, 48c; flake, 23c;tongues, 40c; for small, medium and large; As-sam at 45@62c; Madagascar, 62c for pinky and49c for black; Borneo, 40c; Mozambique, prime,60c; unripe, 25c; African biscuits, 38@39c; Java,42c; Benin, 40c.

Wiley's Heelers.

Are Positively the Best.Send for prices.

WM. H. WILEY & SON,P. O. Box 1033, HARTFORD, CONN

STANDARD HEEL AND TOEPROTECTORHeel Protectors.

Furnish absolute protection to the Stockingswhen worn inside Rubber or Leather

Boots or Shoes. Made for Youths,Boys, Ladies and Men. For

Prices and Terms address

STANDARD MANUF'G CO.,159 N. Water St., Rochester, N. F.



THE HARTFORD HEEL PLATE MACHINEAnd the Perfected IS Heel Plate.

A perfect machine for se-curing Metal Plates to RubberShoes, which every manu-facturer and retailer is privi-liged to secure by lease. • Thisdevice is so simple that achild can understand andoperate it correctly. TheHeel Plate is placed in theclamp over the heel and withone motion of the lever thepoints of the plate are forcedthrough the heel against thelast, or clinching die, which securely fastens the plate to the heel of the shoe. AllHeel Plates heretofore on the market have been partial failures, as they have causedthe overshoe to leak. By our new invention called a dam, or rim, around eachprong, this difficulty has been removed, the machine forcing the prong and rim sofirmly into the rubber that there be no leak by suction. We furnish 5 lasts with eachmachine, one for each Plate.

Price for 1 Machine and 500 pairs Heel Plates, $35.00.

JHL JLIJ J O J • A Jtr B J > ^ m w^u \^_s %_P • ^

No. 5 Grove St., Hartford, Conn.

CHAMPION SHOE BURNISHING MACHINE COPATENTEES AND SOIiB MANUFACTUREHS OF

THE CHAMPION SHANK BURNISHING MACHINE,525 & 527 CHERRY ST., PHILADELPHIA, PA.

We most respectfully call your attention to ourGreat

LABOR SAVING MACHINE,For Burnishing Black and Galloon Shanks of Bootsand Shoes, also Top Pieces.

We guarantee the Machine to Burnish

1200 Pair Shanks in 10 HoursAnd to do them as good as hand-work, if not better.

We also guarantee the Shanks Burnished on thisMachine NOT TO BLISTER OR CRACKLE, BUT TO RE-MAIN FIRM AND SOLID.

To prove the value and great saving to the Man-ufacturer to use THE CHAMPION SHANK BURNISHINGMACHINE, we give 30 days trial, and furnish withoutcharge an operator to instruct one of your hands.

Soliciting an order, we are,Yours truly,

Tie Champion Sloe BnraisMni MacMne Co.

TESTIMONIALS.PHILADELPHIA. July lath, 1887.

E. M. PARKHURST, ESQ.,President Champion Shoe Burnishing Machine Co.

Dear Sir:—We have used your machines on our work for the pastyear, and we would state that they have given entire satisfaction. Ourburnishing has never been better, and the work done on your machinesis fully equal to the best hand work. We have tried several othershank burnishers, but were compelled to lay them aside after a shorttrial. We can cheerfully recommend your machines to any boot andshoe manufacturer. Yours respectfully,

JOHN MUNDELL & CO.

UTICA, N. Y., June 9,1887.E. M. PARKHURST, ESQ.,

President Champion Shoe Burnishing Machine Co.Dear Sir:—It gives me pleasure to say that the Champion Shoe

Burnishing Machine I bought of you is giving entire satisfaction, notonly as to the quantity of work that it will do, but more espec alty asto the quality, which is fully equal to hand finishing in every particu-

You are at liberty to refer to me, for I can cheerfully recom-mend your machine It is first-class in all respects, and I believe it tobe the most practical—the best, and one that will run for years, andcost nothing for repairs. Respectfully yours,

^ J. N. CLOYES

LYNN, Mass., June 15,1887.E. M. PARKHURST, ESQ., .

President Champion Shoe Burnishing Machine Co.Dear Sir:—We are more than pleased with the work done by. your

machine. We think it superior to any hand work ever done in ourfactory. Respectfully y o j , ^ ^ & Q(>


October 5, 1887.]THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 93

Profits For Retailers!Men's Seamless

K$2.50.

15 Styles of Lasts and all Widths.Send for Sample Dozens.

These shoes are made in a town that has the reputation of givingwell-finished work, and to all who will give me a trial I will promisea stylish, honest shoe.

Sam Style, Campbell Sawed, $3

Boston Salesroom,

59 Lincoln Street.

Lewis A. GrPTortli -AJbinggton,

eft,

ILVER

HOE

Our LADIES' CURACOA and BRIGHT DONGOLABUTTON BOOTS AT

$2.00! $2.00!Are the MOST STYLISH, BEST FITTING and Best Wearing Goods in the Market.

We make them in three styles of Toes, and in all widths, from A to E.t&* A Large Stock constantly on hand, from which Orders can be filled AT ONCE. Sample pairs delivered free on receipt of Price.-©8

C. & D. SILVER,TG «,EJLI>E ST., NEW YORK.


THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, i$8)

THE BARGARREN ART THBEAD.REAL SCOTCH FLOURISHING THREAD.

REAL SCOTCH CROCHET THREAD.REAL SCOTCH SPOOL THREAD.

SOLE IMPORTERS:

J. R. LEESON & CO. Boston, Mass.

W. H. DICKComes Up Smiling Again,

Happier than ever, the result of last Winter's big run on his

Hand Made Seamless Foot Warmers.They are without a doubt the most practical house shoe made

for every-day durability, actual comfort and noiselessness for thehousewife, invalid, or anybody desiring ease and warm feet, espe-cially for riding.

All this your Customers are now Looking for.Our woven slipper for rubber boots is a capital thing. Write at

once for our new Descriptive Circular and Price List; also samplesof our i m p r o v e d shoes, for the salesmen may not reach youin time to have goods made for Fall delivery. This business wasoriginated and built up by us, and at present date there's nothingmade in the U. S. equaling these goods. There will be weak im-itators, not claiming originality, who will naturally try to benefit byour reputation and experience. Our shoes are all wool except thesoles (russet) made and originally designed as a "FIRESIDE COM-FORT" Shoe. To gain this ease and comfort, all thought of noisy,heavy heels and stiff counters was abandoned, for with such theyare ungainly, stiff and justly unpopular. Our past patrons' expe-rience and our 1887 open order book thus far are our attests.All Woven of Strips of Woolen Cloth, and Lined with

Address, Wool Quilted on.

D I C K , The Seamless Foot Warmer ffiamf r,127 JUain St., DANSVIL.L.E, N. Y.

Zt is the Proper CaperTo Keep up with the Times,To Lighten the Burden of you Sales-people,To be Ahead of all Competitors in Style,To make it Pleasant for your Customers,To adopt all Valuable Improvements

that add to the beauty of your store and to the comfort of yourcustomers, especially when they save you one-half the labor, andwill pay for themselves every year in clothes and broken backs.

The

SOLLERSPATENT

SHOE STOOL,

Which

This Engraving

Represents,

Will do all that is Claimed for it.In fact it is the only stool now in use that gives entire satisfac-

tion and that is appreciated by both Salesman and Buyer. Of theseveral thousand now in use by the leading shoe stores, the universalopinion is that life would be too short to do without them.

Tie Price is W l i i tie Beacli of all.Send for Circular, which contains many Tes-

timonials, Prices and all Particulars,

The Sollers Shoe Man'fg Co.,417 & 419 Arch Street, Philadelphia, Pa.

Mention the RECORDER when you write

^DRESSINGS-

*FINE SHOES *|f S # PTHER3

AISO -RESTORES • ,iCCOLOR/LUSTRE.

BLACKEST COLOR

All admit thataur advertising rugs are thehandsomest yet produced and we warrantthem first quality Smyrna rugs; for those thatprefer something else we have handsomeglass signs, 14 x 20, embossed signs, 19x22,with gilt frames, or we can put your Cardon each carton in gilt letters, making a richand showy advertisement for your goodsThe o n l y gloss dressing that positively con-ains Oil .

To those not handling "Gilt Edge"we simply say that if it is not superior incolor, lustre and other respects to any in themarket, you can hold it subject to our or-ders as we warrant every package.

Its FINE Quality, ELEGANT Style ancLARGE size (6 oz.), cause it to sell quick,even in the towns where other, dressingsthat retail for 25 cents could get no footing.Try one lot and your customers will take noother. Price per Gross, $24.00,

Can be had of any of the following firmsin 1-4 gro. display cases, (ever} 1-4. gross lothaving *]2 chromos, 1 show card, 1 handsomelinen bannei and 125 advertising stickers.)

E. E. Spencer, New York City, H. B. Hanford & Co., Philadelphia;Frank & Adler, Baltimore; A.D. Hillegas, 37Franklin Street, Chicago;Adolph Meyer & Co., Cincinnati; Ganahl, Schallert & Co. and JamesClark & Co., St. Louis; Mantle & Cowan, Louisville; P. R. L. Harden-berg & Co., St. Paul; Mumford, Foster & Co., Detroit; Fralick & Sher-man, Buffalo; Williams Bros., San Francisco; Herbert Bradley & Co.,Portland, Oregon.; D. R. Dunlap, Mobile, Ala.; J. W. Manier & Son,Nashville; M. Hessberg, Richmond, Va.; T. W. Cosgrove & Co,, KansasCity, Mo.; C. J. Walker & Co., Portland, Me.; Isaac Hills'Sons, Hartford,Conn.

Also our Improved Bon-Ton Polish, retails for 35c, and bottleshold same amount as other make6 of 25c dressings (4 oz.) Price per quar-ter gross, $5.25, per gross, $20.00 net

BROSI^BOSTON,MASS.U.S.A



GET THE BEST,FOR

THE BESTIS THE CHEAPEST

IN THE END."OR STYLE. F IT AND WEAR

THIS WELL-KNOWNMAKE OF MEN'S SHOES

ISU N E X C E L L E D .

BEST QUALITIES

IN E V E R Y S T Y L E ,

H AND, MACHINE SEWED, AND

GOODYEAR WELTS.

FOR

MEN AND B O Y S .

OFFICE and FACTORYBROCKTON,

MASS.

SALESROOM,133 DUANE STREET,

NEW YORK,

We letter af the fop, or in one earner veiy neatly 50 asnnf fa obscure the mirror, HIE advertisement of theManufacturer, so mat it will be seen by the customer.

Bangeley Sporting

Pat. Full Cork BottomFlexible, Water-

proof, . BestOak Grain Top,

With Side Pocket!

Only Perfect Sporting Boot MadeSold only to the Retail Shoe and

Sporting Goods Trade. Address,

B. E. Foster & Co.MILFORD, MASS.

ALMA POLISH

M.

Is the only polish everput on the market thatwill soften and preservethe leather. We do notgive you a brick house,horse and carriage, norcarpet your floor, but wedo offer you the BestD r e s s i n g you ever hadin your store. Severalimitations are out and wewish to CAUTION againstthese frauds.

POLISH

IS MANUFACTURED ONLY BY

S. CAHILL A CO.,94 Lincoln St., Boston, Mass.


96 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. October 5,

ALFRED DOLGE S

FELT SHOES!THE BEST

CATALOGUES ONAPPLICATION.

SEND FORSAMPLES.

DANIEL GREEN & CO. Sole Agents,122 E. 13th Street, XTEW TTORXS.

OIJ> AND ORIGINAL.

EQUALS IMPORTED. WEARS BETTER. ONE HAtF THE COST.

Improved Welt, $2.25. McKay Flexible, $2.00. McKay, $1.65Opera, Spanish Arctt. New York Toe, Common Sense

Lasts. Misses'. Childs' and Infants (o match.Sizes and widths A to E in stock.

Send P. O. Order for price of shoes, and 25 cents for postage,and we will mail sample pair of shoes in Toilet Case, with piece ofthe stock in hair and finished, and our full price list. The shoescan be tested in fitting and wear, and lines ordered fromprice Hit. You have samples to compare with goods.Be jour own judge and drummer. Reviveyour business and save $1.00 per pair for your profit.

This Toilet Case given customers with every .«»>*.• « W M M ^ K I « «* A ~ ~ ~ • • — • — - -w&=^^

pair ofour$*.25 and $a.oo Shoes. . M O N RO E, WO LV ERTON & CO. 369 lO 373 Bl OHdW»y Albany RT. Y.

E Invite the Trade to send for a TRIAL LOT of our

FRENCH Finish, OIL Tanned

Kid Button Boots,Which we call the

We make it up intoour Best Grades of Goods in

LADIES', MISSES' and CHILDREN'S.and warrant it to be the STRONGEST and BEST

WEARING Stock in the Market.

Misses' & Ch.'s Spring Heels a Specialty. A M E I U C A 1 T S H O E I17XI


October 5, X887J THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 97

T. A. MITCHELL & CO.GOOTSYEARWELT

ggAMl-ESs

PRICE$2.85 RETAILS

PRICE* 3.6 per cent. 10 days, 4 per cent. 30 days, Net 60 days

r back (see cut No. i and No. 2) is fast becoming very popular with the trade,have a. verv stylish appearance on the foot. . .Fly and Bal. Front Stay are among the latest and best improvements in the Shoe line, and give perfect

tn the Best Selected Material, are First ClaSS in every respect, and need onlyMto be seen touc apprecnuea. we win Scnu *u, „ the following samples by return mail upon receipt of pnce and 35 cents additional for postage, toany Address, together with our proposal for advertising them as specialties.

SAMPLE LIST.No. 1. Button, 3 wide, London Cap Toe, Size 6

Balmoral, 5 wide, Opera Cap Toe, Size 6#Congress, 5 wide, London Cap Toe, Size 7

No. 2. Button, 4 wide, London Cap Toe, Size 7Balmoral, 4 wide, Opera Cap Toe, Size 6Congress \ wide, London Cap Toe, Size 6^Button, e wide, Opera Cap Toe, Size 6^Balmoral, 5 wide, London Cap Toe, Size 7Congress 4 wide, London Cap Toe, Size 6Congress 4 wide, French PI. Toe, Size 7

No. 3.

Price, $3-55-3-55-3-55-3-iS-

352.85.2.85.2.85.2.85.

Prepaid, $3.90.3.90.

•« 3.90." 3-5°.

3-5°-" 3-5O.

3.20.3.20.3.20.3.20.

These prices, with the discounts, net the same as list previously published.

T. A. MITCHELL & CO, SUCCESSORS TO

, FAiES A CO,,


98 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5,, 1887

LILLY, BRACKETT f CO..HAND WELTS!

With Campbell Outer, Our Great Specialty.We were first and we are first in this Grade of Fine Goods. Can be sold at a Popular Price to

Fine Trade. Also HAKD-SEWED, MACHINE-SEWED and Goodyear Welts in

KANGAROO, CORDOVAN ^ CALF.Address all communications to the Factory, at

Boston Office. 105 Bedford Street. BROCKTON, MASS.

MR. R. G. SALOMON,THE HAMBURG CORDOVAN TANNERY, NEWARK, N. J.,

My Dear Sir—We take the pleasure of expressing to you our highest

appreciation of the various lines of Leathers of which you are the origina-

tor in the United States, which are excellently "adapted for the finest

quality ol Hand-Sewed as well as for the medium grade of Shoes. The

standard as to tannage, finish and durability of your CORDOVANS, PORPOISE, KANGAROOS, DONGOLAS and

ALLIGATORS, excels any known to us, and we that have made specialties of some of the above-named goods for

the last ten years and over, can highly recommend the same to all consumers.

Tours, most respectfully,(Signed)

J. H. & F. H. TORREY, SMITH & STOUGHTON, THOS. EMERSON'S SONS,STACY. ADAMS & CO., PINGREE & SMITH, BURT & PACKARD,M. C. DIZER & CO., LILLY, BRACKETT & CO., S. G. JONES,STRONG & CARROLL, NEWHALL & BARBER, EDWIN CLAPP,HATHAWAY, SOULE & HARRINGTON, M. N. ARNOLD, for POTTER, WHITE & BAYJ.EY, HANAN & SON,REDPATH BROS, WM. H. BATES, Pres.The Rockland Co., J. S. TURNER,

J. BAUM & CO.,RICHARD WOOLLEY & SONS,ZIEGLER BROS.,THE ROCKFORD SHOE CO.,L. SHAW, Sup't for PHELPS, DODGE & PALMER,



THE

COMPLETE SUCCESSShows given amount pressure on old style. Same pressure applied to Combination Slipper.

TESTIMONIALS from leading Dealers in all parts of North America. Daily increase of original and duplicate ordds as a rewardof merit, and proof that our Goods are fully appreciated by the consumers. The sole and quarter are in one piece of sole Lea-

ther, colored and finished to imitate the finest Kid. There is no slazy Kid in the quarter; there is no counter in the Shoe; it is perfectlysmooth inside and out, overcoming the long wrinkles that form above the counter in ordinary Slippers; it will always retain the form ofthe last till worn out, and is sure to give complete satisfaction to the wearer.

SEND FOR CATALOGUEOr $1.00 for Sample Pair, postage paid. $12.00 per doz. 5 off, 30 days. Place your orders at once to insure early attention

7 & 9 Geneva Street,LYONS, -

•MANUFACTURED BY —

W. F. & .J A. BLAKE, Haverhill, Itlass.;F. L. WILDER, Newburyport. HI ass . , and

COMBINATION SLIPPER CO., Lyons, IV. Y

IV.

Old style will gap at the side on flat foot. Old style will rip. at the heel.

J. F. SWAIN & COLynn,

-MANUFACTURERS OF-

Misses' and Children's Fine Shoes.£j • f j A X l f l ) We invite the attention of those who desire good reliableN T i P l | l l J H P P I 1 V goods and ask them to correspond with us. For prices.M M " I U Q MVW*I# > samples, etc., mention the RECORDER when you write. »

A SPECIALTY. ) 0urBotton'stockls Solid Sole Leather. UAlso, ONE PIECE SOLE LEATHER COUNTER.

WAIN'SOLIDERVICEABLEHOE. i"

FOR THE

'$RDI


100 THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER [October 5, ij

THE

Blum Pat.

FLEXIBLE FOOT WARMERCaps the Olimax.

It is unrivaled in quality, durability and comfort. It is the only Shoe ofthe kind that has a sole Leather s.ole, with heel and counter, AND BEINGPROTECTED BY LETTERS PATENT, IT CAN ONLY BE MANUFACTURED BYOuRsri.vrs. It is very soft and flexible and artistic in iorm. It conformsreadily ti the f~>ot. It has no inner sole and no tacks or threads to protrudethrough on the inside. It is adapted for all classes and ages, but particu-larly tor the old and the infirm, and any one troubled with cold, tender andtired feet. It is noiseless and supplies" a long-felt want of the nurse for thesick room. The upper is woven by hand of strips of woolen cloth on a last,and i» lined and quilted with wool. It is a complete Shoe, as complete asa stocking before the sole is sewed on. Once uted, it will never be aband-oned. One pair sold insures the sale of a dozen pairs.

Our FOXED Foot Warmers are great favorites with Farmers as an out-door Shoe, and with Mechanics employed at Machine Shops as a protectoragainst cold feet. To Physicians and others compelled to ride in the cold,they are worth their weight in gold.

We also manufacture the well-known SOFT SOLE Foot Warmers, butmuch improved in style and quality over any other in the market.

Our Agents, being busily engaged taking orders for our Shoes all overthe United States, cannot pos.sibly reach every place and Dealer, and wetherefore offer to send, if desired, Sample Pairs by mail, at wholesaleprices. For Price-Lists and other information, address

THE BLUM SHOE COMPANY,JDansville, N. T.

CONVENIENT!Comfortable!

ORNAMENTAL

COMBINED STOOL AND FOOT REST, Shoesfitted with Least Time and Trouble.

Stool Pivoted to Foot Rest with Connecting Rod and moves in circlon Rollers, changing position to either side of Foot Rest. Jack

interchangeable with Foot Rest, both held in any position bySpring. Jack and Foot Rest are inlaid with Plush.

One of the most useful and attractive of StoreFixtures. Made in different Styles and

Prices. For further information, address

C. L. ROBB, S27 Pearl St., Cleveland, 0.

FINE METAL WINDOW FIXTURES,In Brass, Nickel or Oxidized Silver.

NEW AND ORIGINAL DESINGS. FINE WORK ONLY.

JAMES RAIT, Designer and Manufacturer,52 St.,

SEHXTID FOR OATALOaUE.Boston, Muss,


dfctober 5, 1887] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER.

A GreatTHE LIVES

OF

ILLUSTRIOUSSHOEMAKERS

By William Edward Winks, 288Pqges, Illustrated- Sent to any ad-dress in the U. S. post paid, upon re-ceipt of

25 Cents,A Booh every Shoe Manufacturer,

Jobber and, Dealer in the countryshould possess. Address all orders to

82 & 84 Lincoln St., Boston, Mass.Remittances can be made in postage

stamps.

The SWAN ELASTIC HEEL.

People sit on springs; they lie on springs; they ride onsprings; why not stand and walk on springs by wearing " Thebwan Elastic Heel." They make the step rapid, easy, noiselessan«I graceful. Let me send you a pair for trial. Price, 50 cts.,or $4.00 perdoz. prs., net cash, with order. This will enableyou to adjust them to new Shoes at 50 cts., and to old ones atsuch a price as you choose. They are a positive luxury, andthose who try them will bring in their friends. Truly,

:D:R. Gk E . s'w.A.iisr, .Beaver Dam, - - Wisconsin

flEO. A. SIMONDS & GO.Manufacturers of and Dealers in

, s i & iii'iiiSheet Seeling, Taps, Inner soles

and Counters. -FACTORY AND OFFICE,.

Jefferson Are., Wobnrn

Ar 18 & IS South Street, Boston, Wednesdays andSaturdays.

A PLAIN TALK.Every reader of the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER has heard of the SO LA ft TIP SHOE,

Most of you have sold thousands of them. We are not speaking to you of a stranger, butof a tried and proven friend. If never a word of advertising appeared in the papers, youwould probably go on sending in your orders and keep^our wheels busily turning, but we arenot satisfied with merely holding our own. The SOLAR TIP has been introduced, and isconstantly shipped into every State and Territory in the country, but there must be manyplaces scattered over this broad land where people continue to buy the old-style Children'sShoe. We ought not to complain, everybody knows that the SOLAR TIP has been, andremains, the most successful Specialty the Shoe Trade has ever known.

We don't complain, but we have some how contracted the habit of making each year'ssales excel the last. You can't blame us for constantly seeking new avenues and channelsfor Trade, especially when it is through you we do it, and you all know that no easier-sellingShoe was ever put upon the Market than this same SOLAR TIP. Please don't forget thatwe stamp the Trade Mark on every pair, as a protection against imitations.

John Mundell A Co.,PHILADELPHIA, - PENN.

J.J. Irving Benedict.Arthur I. Benedict.

IRVING BENEDICT & SON,

SLIPPERS EXCLUSIVLEY.W. H. Stacy, J _ . .H. L. Adams, i Specials

ofStacy, Adams & Co,,

Brockton, Mass.

Manufacture lor Retail Dealers.142 Duane St., New York. $3-, Send tor Illustrated Catalogue

USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL.

GLASS SCREENSFOR SHOE STORES.

AND U P W A R D S ,DENZI & PHILLIPS.

"DIETS' ST. , 2STE"W Y O R K .



Harrisburg Boot d SusMfg Co/s Matchless SpecialtiesOur Keystone Brand $ 3 . 0 0 , Specialty

LADIES' FINE BUTT. FLEX. SHOES.Overlap Quarters of Parisian Kid, Curacoa Kid, French Kid Fly, Bright Dongola

Goat. Made on Opera, London, New York and Common Sense Lasts, in all widths. The Most Popular Shoemade. $ 2 . 2 5 Net Cash, 30 Days. Send us a Trial Order.

OUR WORLD BRAND $ 2 . 5 0 SpecialtyLadies' Fine Butt. Flex. Shoes.

Overlap Quarters of IJona Kid, Curacoa Kid, French Kid Fly,Bright Dongola, Stra -In ai d Tampico Pebble Goat. Made onOpera, London, New Y r< an.I Common Sense Lasts, in all widths.The Most Speedy Seller of the day. $ 2 . 0 0 Net Cash, 30 Days.Send for a Sample Order.

Our Star Brand, $ 2 . 0 0 SpecialtyLADIES' FINE BUTTON SHOES.

Cheap, Stylish, Durable and Perfect Fitting; which fills the want of the times. Made on Opera andNew York Lasts. Overlap Quarters, French Kid Fly, $ | . 6 0 . Plain Vamp and Fly, $ | . 5 5 . Kid

and Pebble Goat. Net Cash, 30 Days. Do not fail to Order them.

We want every Dealer to send for Sample Pairs, Dozens, and Cases, confident of your use for n I n i e U r n i « U n n l / f l / \/i *)(1 Uomnii ^t UoiTlch HTff Pflt hem as they only need to be seen to be appreciated by wide awake, up-with-the-times Shoe Men. U. A. UlSUlQW, 111311., I 4 U 4 " I 4 / U ffClllDII 0 1 . , 11011 lOUUlg, Id.

L WILDER• k i B i f • fas ••? ikn 1% •

MANUFACTURER OF

W0MEF8.1SSES1 & fMSSm H i l l TIMEDNEWBTTRYPORT, .

STYLE UNSURPASSED. PERFECTION IN FIT.Woman's French Kid Button Boots

«« «* and Curocoa Kid Button Oxfords.M •« •» •« " Oxford Ties.

Office, S8O Devonshire St., Boston.THE BEST OF SERVICE AT MEDIUM PRICES*Woman'6 French and Curocoa Kid Opera Slippers,

" " " " 3 Point Toilet Slippers." " " " Round Vamp Slippers.

I3ST .A.X.XJ G E A D E S ,A frill line of Glove Calf Goods in Button, Congress, Old Ladies' Bals, Buskins, etc. Correspondence invited for samples and price*.

STANDARD BUTTON FASTENING CO~OFFICE AND FACTORY

370 Atlantic Ave., Bo ton-BRANCH OFFICES,-

112 Munroe St., Lynn, Mass. 9 Essex St., Haverhill,Mass. 30 "Warren St., New York. 17 So. 4th St.,

Fh.il., Fa. 135 Sycamore St., Cincinnati, 0.309 Locust St., St. Louis, Mo. 108 Mill St., Roch., N.Y.

Reasons Why Yon Snonld Have Your Buttons Fastened on Hy t i e " Staadarfl Machine:'ist. It is neater than hand work.ad. It is stronger than hand work.3d. The absolute security of the Fastening, the Buttons being firmly attached

to the material.4th. The independent Fastening of each Button by the Machine, allowing the

thread to be cut on each side of the Button without affecting the security of the Fastening5th. The neatness of the finish on ihe inside of the upper or matsrial, there being

but one line of thread and but two punc tures for each button fastened on.


October 5, 1887.] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER, 103

Seamless Felt snoesWith Soles and Heels, but all in one piece. For Men, Women, Misses, Child-

ren and Infants. A, B, C, D and E widths; Sizes and Half-Sizes. InOxfords, Operas, Toilets and High Bals.; Colors, Dark Blue,

Drab, Seal Brown and Cardinal. Adapted for the Parlor,Bedroom, Sickroom and Indoor Purposes. Wonderfully Com-

fortable. Of Attractive Appearance. Every Pair Warranted. Madeof Pure Wool, absolutely nothing else. Exclusive sales to the right parties.

Send, for* Illustrated. I?i'ice - List.

MATTEAWAIT FELTIITC COMPANY,MATTE A WAN, - N. Y.

SOLID LEATHER GOODS

STRONG! DURABLE! SIGHTLY!All our Goods thoroughly well-made in all respects. Boys' and

Youths' Veal Calf Line* in Machine-Sewed and Standard Screw,Button and Bal.

Boys', $1.40. Youths', $1.20.(Think of that)—Two Widths.

Pebble, Milwaukee Oil and Glove Grain, Ladies', Misses' andChildren's, 8 to 12 and 5 to 7 ^ ; Goat and Russian Calf, 8 to 12and 5 to IYZ. • Misses' and Children's in Spring or Full Heel.

Buff Polish Line, " Pioneer Boot," riveted seams. This Line willwear as long as Leather will hold together.

Sizes are full Standard Measure, and Uppers draughted to fit.Send for Samples, and mite for Terms.

FRANK BRYANT,STONEHAM, MASS.

Jobbers and Shoe FindersIT WILL-

PAY YOUTo get our prices and discounts before* you order your fall stock of

INSOLES.Samples by Wail on Application.

Philadelphia Insole Co.,323 ARCH ST., PHILADELPHIA, PA.



BLAKEY'SCut of Last No. 2,

101-2 lbs.Cut of Heel Protector.

Patent Boot Protectors and Paragon Lasts.These Lasts are the most ingenious in the World. There are Three Sizes. Nos. I and

2 suitable for Shoes, No. 3 for Boots and Shoes. For Familiesand Shoe Dealers they are invaluable.

THE BOOT AND SHOE PROTECTORSAre put up on Cards, 144 Cards to the Gross, six different assortments. Men's Heels, containing 6 prs.; Boy's, 8 prs.; Women's, 12

prs. Men's Assorted Heels, Toe Side and Heel, 10 prs.; Boy's, 12 prs.; Women's, 15 prs. Men's, Boys and Women's Heels inBoxes of 1 doz. prs., also in Canvas Bags of 2 doz. prs.

No Nails, Screws or Awls required to put them on Boots or Shoes. The saving they effect is at least twenty times their cost. Any Boyor Girl can affix them to thekuShoes. Send for Samples of Lasts and Protectors to the

AGENTS FOR THEUNITED STATES, Lai tig & Maginnis,

importers and Dsalers in SHOE FINDINGS, of every Description. 3 0 NORTH 3d ST., PHILADELPHIA

Highest Award wherever Exbibfted.

None Genuine with but Paris Medalon Bottle.

BEWARE OF IMITATIONS.

Manufacturers oi the

ARMY & NAVY BLACKING.

SHOE DEALERSwho desire to publish illustrated cata-logues, should write us for samplesand prices. Boot and Shoe Recorder,

82 & 84 LINCOLN ST., BOSTON.

The lightest, most graceful, most comfortable anunique foot covering Vorn by the human tacsince Cleopatra played havoc with the hearts oBrutus, Marc Antony and the rest of those solidold statesmen and warriors by her Egyptiancharms.

WINCH BROS.,130 to 136 Federal St. Boston,have sold more pairs of Slippers since the first ofMarch than all other dealers in New England.

Because the slippers they sold were made fromHEAVIER and BETTER Stock, and WOULDWEAR AS LONG AGAIN as any other in theMarket, and because the seams are protected by

Buck's Patent Non-Ripping

Brace.

without which these Slippers are Worthleis.

These Slippers are made with or with-out Tap-Sole.

Send $1.00 for SamplePair by Mail.



GOODGER & NAYLOR,Maunfacture the Best Lines of

Ladies9 Hand TurnsHand Welts and Me

Kay Sewed Flex-ible Shoes in theUnited States.

63 and 65 South St. Paul Street,

ROCHESTER, N. Y.

.. C. EASTWOOD,ROCHESTER, N. T.

MANUACTtTRBR OF

\ FINE SHOES "^°™Hand-Sewed and Goodyear Welts

A Specialty.Write for Samples and Prices and mention the RECORDER.

JEREMIAH PHELAN,COMMISSION DEALER IN

IMITATION FRENCH KID,Morocco and Calf Skins.

Cash Advanced on Consignments,

134 Mill St., ROCHESTER, N. Y.

HOUGH & FORDMANUFACTURERS OF

Ladies', Misses', Children's,Boys' and Youths'

SHOES,ROCHESTER, N. Y.

New York Office, 133 DUANB STREET, NEW YORK CITY

Any size and width of goods carried in stock may be obtained by sending order to 133Duane Street, from one pair to a case.

SEND FOR TRIAL, ORDER.

WHITTIER'Stain BarM Steel Heel Plates.For Leather or Rubber Goods. The only Plate

that will hold in Rubber!THREE SIZES: SMALL, for Ladies' and Misses'; MEDIUM, for Boys' and Ladies' large heels; LARGE, for Men's and Boy's.

SMALL and MEDIUM can be used for TOE PLAIBS.

M E R I T S : T h e s e a r e t h e only flue finished, A1, hand made,barb fasteningSteel plates in the world. They are the neatest, handiest and most popular platein existence. Prove this by trying them.

OA.TJTIOIV INFRINGEMENTS !MY CLAIMS ARE a p^te, any shape, with holding prongs, and a curved plate with end

barbed f a s t e n i n g s . Any person making or selling any plates which infringe my rights, will be prosecuted. We canprove that Blakey and similar plates are not patented in the U. S. My advice is, use A I p l a t e s protec ted by pa-tentS and the U. S. Court.

RETAILERS, I have reduced prices so you can get them of your f ind ing or j o b b i n g house at same price ascast iron plates. Use an American article. Finding and Jobbing houses write for drop inpirces. I will send", express paid, 2 to 5 gross, assorted, to retail shoe dealers, upon receipt of $2.50 pet gross with order.

WM. P WHITTIER, JR., Biddeford, Me.



S. GARDNER JONES.

Hand and Machine Sewed.Over 20 years a manufacturer in Brockton, and

to-day making only Hie best grades of Gentlemen'Footwear. Prices and Samples sent on application.

P. O. Address and Factory,

BROCKTOtf, MASS,1 Boston Office, 91 Summer Street.)

"WARDWELL"STITCHED SHANES,

Manufacturers who. are desirous of improving the grade of theirshoes without radical change in their lasts, dies and patterns, shouldinvestigate this process, which produces the best welted shoe everoffered to the trade, and by the simplest method of manufacture.

The forepart of the shoe is welted and the shank is stitchedthrough and through by the Wardwell Machine, producing a verylight, thin shank, which will never break down nor rip.

Manufacturers who desire to show samples can have themstitched by applying to us.

57 Z.ZXTCOZ.XT S T R E E T .

1882. 1887.

LEADS THEM ALLFOR

NEATNESS, STRENGTH, PRACTICABILITYDoes neither catch the stocking nor hurt the foot. Does not deface the

shoe when removed. The only fastener with the points turnedoutward and back at an angle against the stock,

and the only one that will notdamage the shoe.

The Trojan Button A t t a i n MachinesAre the Most Rapid and Effective on the Market

REVISED PRICE LIST, FEB. 15. 1887.Latest Improved Foot Machines (leased), $18.00

" " Hand " " N . 1.25Fasteners l.OO per great gross.

Discounts on Fasteners in quantities given on application.

THE TROJAN BUTTON FASTENER CO.,Office 378 Biver st., Troy, IS". Y.

Mention the RECORDER when you write.



A. S. RICHARDS & Co.,INos. 59 and 6X Beade St., :NTe>w York,

AUCTIONEERS AND C O U S I N MERCHANTS OF BOOTS AND SHOES.Auction Sales every Wednesday aid Friday.

We offer full lines of fresh and regular goods. At private sales we haye regular lines from thebest manufacturers, in quantities and sizes to suit. We are exclusive selling agents for tht well known

Greety Shoe," and headquarters in New York for the celebrated " WigWaill Slipper."

No. 3.

MANUFACTURERS AND PATENTEES OF

Improved Boot and Shoe Lasts,

HEEL AND SOLE PLATES.They are the best and cheapest made for the trade. Superior in style to any in the market.Our lasts are made in three sizes to fit the largest boot or the smallest shoe. Illustrated price-list mailed on application.Any persons making, selling or exposing for sale, any Boot »r Shoe Protector, or other goods which are fraudulent imitations of our manufac-

tures, or which are infringements of any of our patent rights, will b* prosecuted according to law.

S A C K S & R I C H M O N D , 120 and 122 Market St., Newark, N. J..

SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF THE

ONE PRONG BUTTON FASTENER!And Patent Button Setting Instruments.

HAND INSTRUMENT.For use in Stores or the

Household. Sold for

$1.25 each.Fasteners, $1.00 per Gt.

Cross.

DISCOUNT FOR CASE LOTS.

SEND FOB CIRCULAR.

Mention the RECORDER.

Tbe American Button Fastener Company,NEW COTST1V.

PARKER, HOLMES & CO., 141 Federal St, Boston, Mass.ga- Our M a ^ n e s and Fasteners folly protected by 1-etterB Patent and entirely clear from infringement suits.-®*



HARRIS' DAY SEWED STANDARD TIP SHOES c FOR

CHILDREN.We are ever teady to improve our

shoe and give perfect comfort to thelittle feet. We are making our Stand-ard Tip on Day Sewed Lasts as well asour plain-toe shoes, thus makinganother advance and adding to ouralready well-established reputation.

Can be had of first-class jobbers.Any retailer can ascertain by writingus where Harris1 Day Sewed StandardTip Shoes can be obtained.

All Standard Tip ShoesHAVE THIS

TRADEMARK.

THOMAS ME. &CO.PHILADELPHIA, PA.

BOSTON OFFICE, 1O3 BEDFOBD ST.

6* Otto " Oa8 Engine.OVER (8 OOO

IN USE.

Working without Boiler, S\eam, Coal, Ashes or Attention.

Started instantly by a Match, it givesfull power immediately.

When stopped all expense cedses.Sizes : 1 to 25 Horsepower.

Guaranteed to consume 25 to 75 per cent, less gas thanany other Gas Engine doing the same work.

Send for circulars and references.OTTO GAS ENGINE WORKS

Schleicher. Schumm & Co.-Branch Office, 130 Washington St., CHICAGO.

Main Office and Factory, PHILADELPHIA.

SNELL & ATHERTON,!

• Manufacturers of Fine \ T*«»•<»»•• t\ TH I\ &

SHOE TOOLS.)

ESTABLISHEDIN 1833-

Bend for Catalogueand Price List

Patent 0. E. D.Heel Shave.

BROCKTON,Mass.,

ZT. 8. A.

CRIMPING

WHOLE CONGRESS FRONTS,In Glove Calf, Glove Grain, Dongola, Split, or any kind of leather that will crimp. We

leave the stock in as good condition as when cut. We also crimp Creoles, Brogans. StrapShoes,Grain, Creedmores, Stays, Tongues and Backs. We also do Perforating and Pinkingon Vamps. Toe Caps perforated in 31 different styles for men's shoes. When sendingcrimping to us, always send cutting over patterns, one Tor each size, so we can get the shaperequired. Calf, Buff and Split Tips furnished in any quantity. Send for our Price-List.

CHABLES 8. PIERCE, Successor to

MALOON & PIERCE, Brockton, Mass.

EXHIBITION SHOW CASE CO., ERIE, PL,EXCLUSIVE MANUFACTURERS Ot

" M I C H ' S PATENT" 8WIKGINB SECTIONAL SHOW CUBI

Which create elegant, systematic display, combined with greateconomy of room, and yet possess five t imes t h e capacity

ipletetion this paper. Address ,- Exhibition Show Case Co. Erie Pa.

Established 1854,

J. H. POWER & CO.,(Formerly of Pearl Street House,)

SHOE STAMPSAND

STENCILSFor Boot and Shoe Manufacturers and

Dealers.64 High Street, Boston.

Btibber Stamps. All Work Warranted*

C. H. HOLT,Manufacturer and Dealer in

CUTTERSFor the King Heel Trimmer, Wash-burn & Harding Heel Trimmer, KeeneHeel Trimmer, Tyler Heel Trimmer,

KNIVESFor W. & H. Breasting Machine and all kinds of Breasting

Machines. AUo all kinds of Knives for Shoe Machinerymade to order. Forged Cast-Steel Shoe Hammers and LastersPinchers a Specialty. Burnishing Irons, Also Heel Patternsfor King, and Washburn & Harding Heel Trimmers.

All work warranted first-class.

BROCKTON, - MASS.

JAMES H. LAWS & CO.,Cincinnati, Ohio,

AUCTION AND COMMISSION HOUSE.

IS'OfSolicited For Either

AUCTION OR PRIVATE SALE,Advances Made When Desired.


October 5, 1887.]THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. 109

MITCHELL'S IMPROVED SHOE BUCKLE.

MITCHELL BUCKLE MFG. CO., 91 Summer St., Boston.Factory. Brooklyn, N. Y.

THEHATCH PATENTCRIMPER CO.,

ROCHESTER, N. Y.,Original Inventors and Only Patentees of tha

Celebrated

New York Woven Label Manufacturing Co.W 0 v i

263 Canal Street, New York.

WEB

SLIPPERS.C. A. RICHARDS,

WHOLESALE MANUFACTURERS OF

Web Slippers, German Cloth, Embroideredand Plain Slippers wjth Leather toe tips andside pieces, Cork and lint Cork Insoles.

Send for Price List. Office an^Jfoptory.

136 to 144 No. Water St., Rochester, N. Y.

TOUT WATERPROOF SHOE STIFFEMMSKnown as the

HATCH BOCHESTER COUNTER.Warranted to outwear any shoe made, and used by the larg-est snoe manufacturers in the United States for the past tenyears to their entire satisfaction.

We will pay the Retail Dealer for every pair of shoes thattail in which our Stiffenings are used, when they are returnedto us.

Samples free by mail to any part of the country.

THE HATCH PATENT CRIMPER CO.,ROCHESTER, N. Y.

O, -A.. FORD, -A.e«e.t.Haverhlll. *fi Washington St. Boston. 06K Summer S»

NEW ENGLAND LIMITED.The best train now running between Boston and-New York

via NEW YORK & NEW ENGLAND RAILROAD ANDAIR LINE ROUTE. The train leaves depot, foot of SummerStreet. Boston, at 3 p . m . , and arrives at Grand Central depot,New York, at 9 p.m.,returning at 3 p . m . , arriving in Boston

Parlor Cars and Coaches run through. Tickets and seatsSij\O

t^' 3 8? wi"»«°Ston Street, corner olMilk, and at the depot, foot of Summer Street, Boston.

J . Pfc. LJEESCXIX <fc OO. ,SOLE IMPORTERS,

JOHNSTONE, SCOTLAND, AND GRAFTON, MASS.

PRIZE LINEN THREADS.£98 Devonshire Street. Boston.

BOTTOM STAINS.For all kinds of leather use our* No, G&2 on Hem-

lock or TJnion to make an Oak Bottom.

CEO. A. SMITH, 17 South Fourth St., Philadelphia, Pa.

CUR. KID. Worked Holes.Im. French Kid. Sizes 2 to 5.

<M flflHIGH CUT DONGOLA, <k| flfljS> 11U U Spring Heel. Same in Peb- U> 11U U

i and Cur. Kid. Sizes 4 to 8.f|G L 0 W C U T MONGOL A, Cur.U Kid and Pebble. 4 to 8. War-

ranted. Same in Im. French Kid, 90c.The above are our makes of Children's Shoes and are warranted HAND TURNS.fpr postage. Write for our Price JList.

JONES & GEERER, 60 and 62 South Street, UTICA,

8QC65"40C

65C4QCMOCK KID. A Big Bargain.

Good Style. Warranted. 2 to 5.

Send postal note for sainple pairs and add 25 cents

. Y.


no THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

PETIOLE CONGRESS!Unsurpassed for STYLISH APPEARANCE on

the foot. PRACTICAL. REMEDY for UnsightlyGores, Chafed and Defaced by Interfering. Popular;SOLD IN TWENTY-THREE STATES;Thoroughly Tested; Sales Quadrupled in ThreeYears and Without Question the Coming Con-

gress Gaiter.

THOMAS EMERSON'S SONS,Manufacturers of

I

105 Summer Street, Boston.

J. H. BORLAND,Wholesale. Auctioneer and Commission Dealer In

Boots, Shoes, Rubbers and General Merchandise,343 Liberty Street, Pittsburgh Pa.

Consignments Solicited and Advances Made. Auction Sale* of Boots and Shoes every Wednesduy throughout the Year;Jl*0 ** Private Sale. N. B. THB ONLY EXCLUSIVE AUCTION AND COMMISSION BOOT AND SHOE HOUSE IN THE CITY. Ship byStar, Union or Merchant's Dispatch. -

NASH & OUSHING,Brokers, and Bealers in Business Paper

79 Milk St., Boston, Mass.Endorsed and single name notes negotiated at lowest market prices. Enquiries per

Telegraph or by letter, will have early attention. Proceeds remitted promptly. Specialattention iriven to Shoe and Leather Notes. Money Loaned on Real Estate.

Manufactured only by

The American Bolt and Screw Case Co.,DAYTOlf, OHIO

All Cases Guaranteed,

Ho ds 72 Pairof Bo ts. Send for Circulars for our Boot, Robber and Carton Cases.

PATENT *£]Self Clineking 1TLACINC HOOK

Foot Power and Hand Setting MachinesFOR RETAILERS AND MANUFACTURERS.

Manufactured only byE D W A R D IWCAYTVZ, 37 South St., Boston, Mass

—WITH—

LOUIS BAGGER & CO.,

SOLICITORS OF PATENTS,— AND —

Counsellors at Law,LeDROIT BUILDING,

Opposite United States Patent Office

WASHINGTON, D. C.Twenty years' praciice. Unsurpassed facilities for securing

United States and Foreign Patents, and making examinations.All matters relating to inventions attended to with secrecy,skill and promptness. PERSONAL ATTENTION givento all matters throughout. Investigations to determine thescope and validity of patents and novelty of inventions madeOpinions on legal questions rendered. Interferences and infriagements prosecuted. Copies of patents furnished.

ADVICE FREE.

Fassenger and Freight

ELEVATORS.t . S. GRAVES & SON,

ROCHESTER, N. Y.,46 Courtlandt St., New York City.

SEND FOR CATALGOUE.

S. M. LITTLETON,Manufacturer of Men's Boys' &

Youths' Veal, Calf &. Buff Shoes.Men's Buff, Seamless Shoe $1.50.

Men's Veal Calf $1.60 pair. Boys'Veal Calf $1.25 pair. YouthsVeal Calf $1.10 pair. Boys' Fine Calf $1.50 pair.

Correspondence Solicited.57 No. Warren Ave., Brockton, Mass.

STERLING THREAD GO.

Spool Cotton-FOR-

SHOE TRADE,No. 105 Summer Street.

BOSTON, MASS.

For Retail Shoe Dealers to usefor advertising purposes. Largeline to select from." Send 3 twocent stamps for full catalogue.

Address,Boot ana Shoe Recorders e

82 & 84 LINCOLN ST.


October 5, 1887.] THE BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER. Ill

KID.$1.25!

GOAT.WE NOW OFFER

THE YICTORLADIES' BUTT., KID OR GOAT.

SOLID OUTER SOLE.Russell"Warranted Counter, Stylish New York or Medium Toe.

All Widths. We recommend the E., N. Y. To partiesordering regular cases, we will print the

name in Boot, and give territory.

$1.25. $1.25.

SAMPLE PAIRS, by Mail on receipt of Postal Note, $1.55.

SHOE I F B CO., - LYNN.

The Hit of the Season.

For Ladies' Wear.Made from Genuine Kid, hand-

somely fitted, solid outer sole, andSole Leather counter, flexible or solidInner Sole.

Stylish Opera Toe.

A Regular Beauty. ^

NOW Read pur Offer. VVe have arranged witn one of the lead-ing Jewelry Houses so that in order to quickjy introduce these goodswe will Giye away with eiery pair,

A HANDSOME PIECE OF JEWELRY.This will make these Shoes sell like hot cakes, and the Retailer

who handles them will reap a harvest. Order Sample Dozen atonce, and secure Territory.

Sample pairs with piece of Jewelry by mail* post-paid, uponreceipt of Postal Note for $1.90.

With Valiant Patent Button Fly, 5 cents extra.

Jl

MADE BTStanley Manufacturing Co.

BOSTON, MABB.

FOR

Boot and Shoe Maxi'frs,HARNESS MAKERS, BOOK BINDERS,

—AND OTHERS.—

These Machines are simple and ac-curate, and a trial will convince any oneof their superior merits. If you haveuse for such a machine, write us.

FOR PRICES AND TERMS, ADDRESS,

STANLEY MANUFACT'NG CO.102 South St., Boston, Mass,


112 THE BOOT AND SLOE RECORDER. [October 5, 1887

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT!

"How to Manage a Retail Shoo Store."

SHE Prize Essays contributed to the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER, on "How TO MANAGE A RETAIL SHOE STORE,"

attracted wide attention throughout the country. There were 35 in all, written by Shoe dealers in active business, from Maine toTexas and from New York to California. For a long time we have had a demand for back copies of the RECORDER containing these

articles, but the supply was long ago exhausted, and we have decided to publish the same in book form, provided enough copies aresubscribed for to iy for the cost of the work. The book as laid out will comprise both the first and second series aud will malre about I50pages, size about 5^x73^ inches to the page. The work will be set up in long primer type, leaded; and will make a very handsome show.It will be printed on an extra superfine tinted paper and bound in cloth with gold lettering, with a cheaper edition bound in heavy paperwith black lettering. This is a work that should be in the house of every Shoe dealer in the country. It will comprise information thatcould not be'attained otherwise, and will be worth its weight in gold, as it will give the personal experience of men in all sections,, who havemade this subject a study. The Prices for the two editions will be as follows:

Bound in Cloth and Cold, per CopyBound in Paper, per Copy -

Those who desire copies are requested to fill out the order below and return it to us.until the Book is ready for delivery), when you will be notified.

S1.OO..75.

(No money need accompany the order

/88To the BOOT AND SHOE RECORDER, Boston, Mass.

We desire you to booh our Order for copies of " H O W TO MAN-AGE A RETAIL SHOE STORE," bound in at per copy,

which we will remit for when Work is ready for delivery.

Name

City or Town \

Street State

Subscribers who do not wish to cut this copy of the RECORDER, can write this order out and send to us. Address all communications,

82 & 84 Lincoln Street, BOSTON, MASS



THE^PURITAN" W A T E R P R O O F W S K I N S ;nate J ^ v " m^n{^ied bX a Pr<>cess similar to that by which thepatent Kids known as Dongola are made.

The points claimed for it are these:# TIM1* Is a l m ° S i m P° s s i b l e t 0 tear it, and it will not crack.

. Whether cold or hot, wet or dry, it is always soft and easyfor the most tender feet,

Waterproof.—It will turn water better than any other leatherCOlOr. A jet black that will not fade or turn red.Polish. Unlike all other grain leather, it will take a high polish with

ordinary shoe blacking.Clean and Light Weight. Not being weighted with tanning materials

and grease it will not soil a stocking, and weighs lightfor the substance.

It is manufactured in all weights and substances from the lighest to theheaviest, and is especially adapted for the following goods, samples of whichmay be seen at our office and in daily wear.

Men's Button and Lace shoes. Men's heavy (English) Waukenphast andHunting Shoes. Men's Congress. (No grease to rot the goring.) Men'sOpera Boots. Driving and River Boots. Men's heavy grain Boots for theroughest work. Ladies' and Children's Boots and Shoes of all kinds.For Tops, it is second only to Kangaroo for durability and Beauty.

ETTEnrsr sisiivr i s 'W-A-HIIAITTED.

To Whom it May Concern :-Haying adopted andregistered the name of PURITAN as our Trade Mark for CalfSkins, we herewith forbid all persons from using the same.

Anyone infringing onr right will be immediately prosecutedwithout further notice. PATZOWSKY & CO., New York.

DEWSON, WILLIAMS * CO., 51 South Street, Boston, Mass.y o u r ZHklainxfac-fcTirer JTor

Fine Magazine and BookIllustration, Portraits, Ma-chinery, Buildings, Land-scapes, Plates for ColorPrinting, Labels, etc.

The American Tool and Machine Co.,ENGINEERS AND MACHINISTS,

84 KINGSTON STREET, BOSTON, MASS.

OfAnd Sewing Machine Tables for Manufacturing Purposes, Shafting, Pulleys

and Hangers, with self-oiling boxes. Estimates and Plansfurnished and Mill Work of all kinds Executed.

GEO. F. WOOD & CO.,513 West Main St. (North Side), LOUISVILLE, KY.

Auctioneers & Commission Merchants in Boots & ShoesAUCTION SALES, MONDAY <fe WEDNESDAY, of each Week, at 9.30 A.M.

Consignments solicited from Manufacturers and Advances if desired. We also make a Specialty ofselling goods at Private Sale, and carry Kegular Lines.

BOSTON OFFICE, • - 14 HIGH STREET.



FOR

SHOE DEALERSEXCELSIOR

PRICE CARDS.FOR

Displaying Prices

In Show Windows

The best method yet introduced for displaying prices on Shoes inyour Windows. The accompanying cut shows what they are. Alldenominations from 5 cents up to #8.00.

Price, $ | . 5 O f or 100* Sent post paid to any address.

Shoe Dealers Advertise!

rE are now making an excellent Fan for Advertising Purposes,with Lithogiaphic face amd your card printed on the back, at

the following Prices :250 500 1000

Puzzle Fan, (2 Designs), $3.50 $5.50 $9.00No. 10, (4 Designs), 3.50 5.50 9.00No. 13, (4 Designs), 3.50 5.50 9.00

Remember, these Prices include Fans, Sticks and Printing. TheNo's 10 and 13 are Pretty Designs of Faces. We will send three(3) Samples, one of each of the above, by mail, postpaid, uponreceipt of 3 two-cent stamps.

ORDER SOON OR YOU MAY BE DISAPPOINTED.

FANCY CARDS!FOR ADVERTISING PURPOSES.

We have a New Line of FANCY ADVERTISING CARDS, suitable forShoe Dealers. Our assortment comprises eleven (11) varieties offuur (4) dc signs to each style. Six of these designs are 4 ^ x 6^6inches, and five designs are 5 / 2 x 7 / 2 inches. These are veryelegant Cards and are among the handsomest ever published for thisnnmose The prices are as follows :purpo&c. i " c i 250 500 1000

Smallest Design - $3.50 $6.00 $10.00Largest Design - - 5.00 9.00 15.00

These prices include card printed on same and the four (4) designsin each lot. We will send a Sample Package of the above by mail, at thefollowing rates : 24 Cards, comprising the smallest design, 60c.; 20Cards comprising the largest design, 60c.; 44 Cards, comprising theentire'designs, $1.00. Positively no Cards free., money must accom-pany the Order to receive attention.

THE NEW WINDOW SHOWCARDS just brought outby the RECORDER PUB-

LISHING Co. are intended tosupply a long needed dec-oration for Window use.The above illustration is anexact copy in size and form.

They are printed on Whiteor assorted Colored Cardswith black ink.

These cards are put up inpackages of 60 to each pack-age containing three of eachof the following names.OPERA, COMMON SENSE, LON-

DON, FRENCH, NEW YORK, ,LATEST, DAISY, BEAU-

TY, FRENCH KID,AMERICAN KID,

ALL SOILID, NEW, ELEGANT,TONY, WATERPROOF, BOX

TOE, HAND - SEWED,HAND WELT,

FRENCH CALF, CORK SOLE.

Price by Mail, Postpaid—Pack-age of White, (60 Cards,) 7S cts.Package of Assorted Colors, (60Cards,) Sl.OO.

WILLSON'S CARD PINS.

FOR

0T7B. WINDOW CARDS,AS ADVERTISED ABOVE.

These Pins can be attached to any part of the Shoe and show theWindow Card, in any position.Put up in boxes of ioo pins, price by mail, postage paid, ? 5 CtS.In boxes of 50 pins, by mail, postage paid, 50 CtS.

Address all Orders for above Goods to

Boot and Shoe Recorder,82 & 84 LINCOLN ST., BO§TOff

Remit by Postal Note or Money Order,



HARTFORD BROTHERS,MANUFACTURERS OF

BRASS EDGEAND

STEEL. BOUND

B O O T ' - SHOEAND

US SOUTH STREET, BOSTON.

[ESTABLISHED 1793.] [INCORPORATED 186S.\

FLETCHER MAN'F'G CO.,PROVIDENCE, R I

MANUFACTURERS OF

FACTORIES, PROVIDENCE, R. I.WAREHOUSES,

126 aid 128 tad St., N. I119 Fmtin St., Boston.

ROSS, UNGDON & CO.,

Established 1850.

I. » . BROWN & SON,Manufacturers of

Machine TwistAND

Sewing Silk,«7 LINCOLN ST., - BOSTON.

Salesrooms, 486 Broadway, N. I .Mills, Middletown, Conn.

Brands; Victor, Middletown Mills, Royaland Paragon.

Common Sense Splitting Machine.Latest Improved and Best. Made in five different sizes. Works perfectly

onall kinds of leather from heavy sole to light calf and kid. Simple, easilyadjusted and will do more work than any other machine. Specially adaptedfor skiving vamps for toe caps and toe tips. Send for descriptive circular

! C. S. Fiflelfl & Co., 53 Hi£H St. Boston,Dealers in all kinds of

Boot and Shoe Machinery.

MANUFACTURERS OF

Fine Lasts.BRANCH OFFICES,65 PARK ST.,

New York.318 CHERRY ST.

Philadelphia.35 MONROE ST.,

Lynn, Mass.

/

JT. F. VELLA & CO.,Manufacturers of

LADIES' AND GENTS' FINE SHIPPERS, INGOAT, K I D , HAIR, CALF, FANCY COL-

ORED KIDS, VELVETS, ETC.amples sent on application.

NO. 215 ITNION STREET, LYNN, MASS.

J. F. VELLA,Manufacturer of and Dealer in all kinds and styles of FrenchCovered Heels. Heel Woods for sale or covered to matchColored or Fancy Slippers. jfi®"" Samples sent on application

NO. 215 UNION STREET, LYNN, MASS.

L O W OXJTSJl

Can purchase BOOT AND SHOK CITS at a Lower Price of the

Photo Electrotype Co., - Boston, Mass.,Than of any other House in the United States. Send a print similar to the size

and style desired, and we can suit you.CUTS OF SHOE MACHINERY a Specialty. Send photographs for estimate. Give us a call at

j H A R T F O R D ST1., near Franklin, BOSTON.

Soule's Perfect Instructions!JPrice, #5.OO

For Designing and Fitting all StylesBoot and Shoe Patterns to Lasts.

This work is the result of fifteen years practicalexperience as a Pattern Maker for the highest class trade. Thereare iB illustrations full sized, as used in samples, with thorough in-structions. The most useful Book for Shoe Designers and manu-facturers ever published. An elegant large volume, handsomelybound. Send for descriptive circular.

Price has been $10.00 but we have arranged with the author fora large supply for $5.00. It is well worth ten times that price toany man.

For Sale by theBoot and Shoe Recorder, 82 & 84 Lincoln St., Boston,



COMING RUBBERManufacturers of only the Purest and Best Quality of

Rubber Boots and Shoes. Warranted to beUnsurpassed for Durability.

No Cheap or Inferior Goods Made.

FACTORY AND SALESROOM,

WILLIAMSPORT, PENN.Western Branch, 177, 179 & 181 Fifth Avenue, Chicago, III.

BBIDG-EPORT ELASTIC WEB COMPANY, BRIDGEPORT, C O E ,Manufacturers of Best Qualities

ELASTIC GOItXCTO.The high standard for quality, durability, and service of the Goring made by this Company

has greatly increased the popularity of the different styles of Congress gaiters. 1 f used within areasonable time it will outwear any shoe. The best Para rubber thread is usei 1, skilled laboronly is employed, and the rubbers are woven so they e&nnot slip. For sale by the principalSboe Finder* in large cities or by Special Agents.

AUCTIONEERS & COMMISSION MERCHANTS,

926 and 928 Market St., ^Philadelphia.

LARGE TRADE SALES OF

BOOTS and SHOES,EVERY TUESDAY THROUGHOUT THE SEASON.

NOTE.—These sales are composed entirely consigned Goods and every Lot sold withotrt reserve, affording excellent opportunities e

rs to replenish Stocks and Manufacturers to dispose of Goods. Also in separate departments,

FULL LINES OF CHOICE MAKES AT PRIVATE SALE.


THK BOOT AND SHOK RK('OKftKft.

"BILL PRICE."

01 1

STORY OF BILL PRICEIs just out, and we want to send a copy to

Every Cash Buyer in the Country.contains jnueh that is new and interesting, and is so thoroughly descrip*

tive of our Goo^s/that we have no difficulty in pleasing customerswho order from it without seeing the goods' they order.

T WILL PAY YOU to SEND for ONE.

MORSE & ROGERS,Wholesale Dealers in Booh and Shoes at Bill Price*

134 <& 136 Du&ne St., ITew Tcrk.


I? TUB BOOT AND NHOK KK<ORDKI.

The Only Way to Back Hearsay is to Find Out for Yourself.I opinion is worth something, but your own experience is wortmpoI want you now to find out for yourself whether the reputationfnii

our No. 407,

LADIES' CURACQA KID BUTTONhas acquired is deserved, and for this reason I desire all lire dealers to ora sample lot at once. You will find it the cleanest selling line youried. I can fill orders for any number of pairs or cases on receipt ofB, C, D, E and EE widths constantly on hand.Respectfully,

Successor to I3E1V1MLAJV Jk H O W L A N D ,

P E A R L S T R E E T , . . . . R O 0 T O M ,

™ • ! *5iM,

XTD

ENTITLED

*Ni"Our Printed Traveler."PUBLISHED BY

N.Y.& N.E, SHOE M FBS & RUBBER SELLING AGNlX tS9 Jefferson \ venue.

DETROIT, MIC,


immmm

E


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