Tanya Dove Apparel Technology

Author, Creator, Educator

There are many types of dress forms. Some with more contoured female body lines (right). Select the most suitable dress form for your body size.

If the bust is smaller than yours, put a bra on the dress form and pad it inside to give a better representation of your own bust size.

This presentation will drape a “body Block” which drapes from shoulder down to under the crutch line, between the legs.

If your dress form does not have legs drape to the hipline only.

Draping tape comes in many colours and widths. 0.5cm is a good width to use. It is slightly glued on one side, which holds in place but does not stick permanently onto the dress form.

When taping your form use pins to secure connections of tape – CF bust point, WL point etc.

Mark a straight line down the grain line on the fabric before placing it on the dress form.

Pin this down the CF of the dress form, leaving enough fabric at the top to reach the shoulder line.

Pin CF then pin across to side seam at hipline.

Confirm side seam, hip to bust line then pin waist dart together.

Pin shoulder line, followed by bust dart to shoulder. Pinning dart together and not onto dress form.

Mark key points and lines in pencil onto the fabric. Including around bust into side seam.

Mark WL and HL, and either side of the darts.

Mark WL and HL, and either side of the darts.

Align waist darts. Increasing dart on knickers to flow down from bodice. Aligning side seam so the measurement remains the same

Increase length of back dart to XB

Reduce XF, drop front shoulder

EASE of movement

4cm Bust – BREATHING

2cm Waist – EATING

2-4cm Hipline - SITTING

Radius depends on bust Cup size

Contour lines are above and under the bust to give 3D shaping

A Technical Foundation, Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting · ISBN-10: 1849634718 · ISBN-13: 978-1849634717

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