Between tradition and innovation: Contrasting approaches to gastronomy in Portugal and Spain

Greg Richards

Tilburg University, The Netherlands

Paper presented at the ATLAS Tourism and Gastronomy Group Expert Meeting on Regional

Gastronomy: Between tradition and innovation, Ponte de Lima, Portugal, 29/30 May 2014.

Abstract

Spain and Portugal, neighbours in the Iberian Peninsula, arguably represent polar opposites in terms

of their approaches to innovation and tradition in gastronomy. This paper analyses the approaches

in these two neighbouring countries, and examines the relationship between gastronomy as

heritage and gastronomy as innovation. A number of initiatives are reviewed, including the Prove

Portugal programme. As the website for this project ponders:

Unfortunately, the vast majority of tourists are unaware of this inescapable reality and are

unfamiliar with our genuine gastronomic skills. They therefore sense no desire to visit the

country in order to sample Portuguese cuisine.

How it is possible that Portugal still isn’t viewed as a first-class gastronomic destination,

notwithstanding the gratitude owed to us for the key historic role we have played in the

development of European and world gastronomy, and the fine quality of our products,

recipes and Chefs? (www.proveportugal.pt)

Given the undoubted culinary richness of Portugal, it is indeed strange that it does not have the

same gastronomic reputation with tourists as Spain. Recent years have seen Spain reposition itself as

a leading gastronomic destination, with Chefs such as Ferran Adrià being used to promote the

country on the global stage. As Ruiz de Lera (2012) notes: “Gastronomy is no longer just about food

and cooking. It has become the latest fashion; a widespread subject of conversation. It reaches all

kinds of publics, no matter age, gender, cultural background or country of origin. It is an intercultural

and intergenerational movement that has become a global phenomenon thanks to massive media

coverage.”

This paper examines the contrasting positions of gastronomy and tourism in the two countries. In

particular it asks whether the more conservative approach to national gastronomy in Portugal may

partly be seen as a reaction to threatened changes to gastronomic habits from EU legislation

(Richards and Hjalager, 2002).The legislation to define and protect elements of national gastronomy

emerged at a time when it seemed that EU controls might limit or eradicate the production of

certain traditional foods – a situation also faced in other countries (Ren, 2010). In Spain, as

Ravenscroft and van Westering (2002) have argued, the more flexible combination of intellectual

property protection and regionalisation led to more creative approaches to gastronomy.

Introduction

Countries are increasingly employing gastronomy as a form of ‘soft power’ to improve their global

position. Emerging economies in Asia are doing this through the creation of restaurants to

popularise their food and stimulate exports (Richards, 2012). In Australasia the removal of privileged

markets in Europe stimulated innovation and turned the region into a hotbed of gastronomic

invention (Hall, 2002). In Europe, approaches by national governments to global competition have

been varied, oscillating between innovative and traditional gastronomy.

Spain and Portugal, neighbours in the Iberian Peninsula, arguably represent polar opposites in terms

of their approaches to this challenge. In Spain a relatively open approach to gastronomic innovation

has been adopted, driven to a large extent by regions seeking to define their identity through

gastronomic development. In Portugal, on the other hand, the emphasis has been on conserving

gastronomic heritage, which has arguably limited innovative gastronomic development. This paper

contrasts the approaches and effects of these two countries in terms of the relationship between

innovation and tradition.

This issue has recently been highlighted by the development of the Prove Portugal (Taste Portugal)

programme, which is:

…. all about building a convincing image of the best we have to offer in the areas of

gastronomy and wine and spreading it to the world and its people, winning them over with

the certainty that the taste of Portugal is refined, sophisticated and cosmopolitan.

The aims of Prove Portugal are:

To publicize and promote gastronomy

To qualify the resources

To enrich the products image

As the website admits, however,

Unfortunately, the vast majority of tourists are unaware of this inescapable reality and are

unfamiliar with our genuine gastronomic skills. They therefore sense no desire to visit the

country in order to sample Portuguese cuisine.

Given that Portugal has a wealth of gastronomic resources, including excellent cuisine, leading chefs,

a culinary heritage linking it to the main cuisines of the world, one might expect Portugal to be more

firmly established on the gastronomy tourism map. Again, as the website notes, however:

….Portugal still isn’t viewed as a first-class gastronomic destination’ and there is a ‘lack of a

clear gastronomic identity’

Given the obvious gastronomic assets that Portugal has, why has it been less successful in the global

race to attract the gastronomic tourist than neighbouring Spain? This paper analyses the position of

gastronomy and tourism in the two countries in an attempt to answer this question.

Is it enough to be blessed with gastronomic resources?

Increasingly, recognition among tourists, as the vanguard of global taste, depends not so much on

the comparative advantage of high quality raw ingredients and skilled food producers and chefs, but

more on the competitive advantage bestowed on places by their use of these resources.

The first signs of this division were already evident in the first ATLAS meeting on Tourism and

Gastronomy held in Esposende in 2000. Contrasting presentations on the gastronomy of Portugal

(Fields, 2002; Beer et al., 2002) and Spain (Ravenscroft and van Westering, 2002) illustrated the

divergent approaches of these two countries to the issue of traditional gastronomy. One of the

interesting moves at that time in Portugal was the declaration of Portuguese traditional gastronomy

as immaterial heritage. The idea was to protect specific dishes and recipes, particularly in the light of

EU moves to ban certain traditional food production and preparation techniques (see also Ren,

2010). However, this protective stance seems to have done little to promote Portuguese gastronomy

to tourists.

In spite of the recognition of Portuguese gastronomy as national heritage (Diario de Republica, 2000)

the level of promotion of traditional cuisine to tourists appears low. For example Henriques and

Custódio (2010) found that only 6% of the dishes offered to tourists by restaurants in the Algarve

were traditional.

However, the Portuguese experience is interesting, because the concept of gastronomic heritage has

now been taken up by UNESCO, which has designated three gastronomic systems as world

intangible heritage: traditional Mexican cuisine, the Mediterranean diet and the ‘gastronomic meal

of the French’.

In contrast, as pointed out by Ravenscroft and van Westering in 2002, the approach in Spain has

been less protective, and there have not been efforts to identify particular gastronomic products as

cultural heritage. This is because gastronomy is easier to link to specific areas where these products

are produced rather than to protect via cultural or intellectual property legislation.

Innovative gastronomy in Spain

In Spain, the approach to developing gastronomy has been less conservative and more open to

innovation. The new approach is epitomised by Ferran Adrià, now Spain’s ‘gastronomic ambassador ‘

and leading global chef. Ferran Adrià sees cooking as the ‘new rock and roll’, and he is certainly not

shy of the media or celebrity. With the new generation of Spanish chefs, gastronomy has become a

creative industry.

As the Turespaña website puts it:

Head chefs have nowadays become creative professionals - like great designers. This is why

modern Spanish dishes now come with their own signature, like creations from the world of

fashion. Chefs like Arzak, Ferrán Adriá and Berasategui give their own personal seal to dishes

such as seafood gazpacho, "Gaudí-style" red mullet, lamb loin with cauliflower couscous, cod

in green sauce, or sea bass with scallops and a sauce of flame-grilled leeks. These dishes are

imitated by dedicated admirers across the globe (Turespaña, 2014)

This approach has been supported by national and regional policies aimed at gastronomic

development and innovation:

The project of “Culinary excellence to promote Spanish food culture abroad and promote

quality tourism” was created in 2001.

The Government has promoted the slogan: "Spain, gastronomic privilege”.

Restaurants and chefs have become ambassadors of the country’s brand: Ferrán Adrià, Roca

Brothers, Santi Santamaria, Carme Ruscalleda, José Andrés and many others.

The Spain Export and Investment organization (Icex) also has an important role in the

gastronomy system.

The development of a Plan for International Promotion of Eno-gastronomic Tourism 2009

BILBAO has created the Basque Gastronomic Capital, a university with influential Board

Members. (Trujillo, 2013)

Trujillo also identifies Barcelona (or more accurately Catalunya) as a special case within Spanish

gastronomy:

2003 was proclaimed Year of Food, Feeding and Drink in Catalunya. (and 2005 in Barcelona –

check)

The organisation of events, activities, institutions or spaces such as the Food World Event,

the Gourmet Club, the Catalan Academy of Gastronomy, Food Culture Museum and the

brand Catalan Cuina.

The Alicia foundation was created and also a master degree at the Universitat de Barcelona

UB on Food History and Culture (which will unfortunately close in 2014).

El Bulli became the number 1 restaurant in the world for many years

Barcelona has obtained 36 Michelin stars in total. (21% of Spain’s total)

The new number one restaurant is Celler de Can Roca, also located in Catalunya. The Roca

brothers designed the Somni exhibition and are preparing a world tour for 2014

As Ruiz de Lera (2012) notes in his analysis of the relationship between gastronomy and tourism in

Spain: “Gastronomy is no longer just about food and cooking. It has become the latest fashion; a

widespread subject of conversation. It reaches all kinds of publics, no matter age, gender, cultural

background or country of origin. It is an intercultural and intergenerational movement that has

become a global phenomenon thanks to massive media coverage.” For external consumption,

Spanish gastronomy is used as a form of ‘soft power’ or edible diplomacy, an extension of a dynamic

national identity and image.

But even within Spain, the power of gastronomy is not so much national as regional. Catalunya and

the Basque Country lead. Ruiz de Leira (2012) argues that one of the turning points “in the history-

line of Spain’s gastronomy is the New Basque Cuisine. The Basque Country was already

internationally famous for its delicious traditional cuisine when a group of new chefs decided to take

a number of these dishes and renew them using their imagination. This movement was moulded in

the mid-1970s by a series of young chefs that now are maestros of renowned prestige, whose

creativity falls under the title of so-called ‘signature cuisine’.” The Basque Culinary Centre has also

become a beacon for gastronomic innovation, underlining the far-reaching potential of gastronomy

as a development tool:

You exercise a profession that has the power to influence the socio-economic development

of others. You can generate a major economic activity by promoting the exportation of your

own country goods while attracting tourists to your homeland. In addition, you can work

with local producers using fair economic practices. You can generate sustainable local

wealth and strengthen financially your community.

Open letter for tomorrow’s cooks. The international Assessment Council of the Basque

Culinary Centre (Lima, September 10th 2011)

Bearing all these facts in mind, it is no coincidence that gastronomy plays an important role in the

new product portfolio that Turespaña is currently developing and will be finalised by the end of

2011. This new product portfolio will guide Spain’s new strategic marketing plan 2011-2014. In the

portfolio, Spain’s food and wine has been promoted to a higher level of importance due to the fact

that gastronomy is one of the main motivations to travel to a destination. Within this category

products like Wine and Food routes, Tapas, “Alta Cocina” (Haute Cuisine), etc. are found.

Gastronomic tourism is also being developed through innovative attraction concepts. Ferran Adrià

closed his world renowned El Bulli restaurant in Catalunya in 2011, and is now developing the El Bulli

Foundation to carry on his work developing creative ideas outside the restaurant. A museum and

visitor centre themed around the restaurant will be called El Bulli 1846, reflecting both the 1,846

dishes created at El Bulli and the year that Auguste Escoffier was born. Ferran Adrià aims to attract

some 200,000 people a year, far more than could eat at the restaurant when it was open. The El Bulli

Foundation will draw inspiration from sources such as the Cirque du Soleil, Salvador Dali and his

museum in nearby Figueres, and MIT's Media Lab. The new centre will cost €6 million to build and

€3 million a year to run when it opens.

Londoño (2013) analyses the development of the gastronomy sector in Catalunya, and shows how

the links with tourism have been actively promoted:

in 2003, the administration led by the Generalitat’s Catalan Tourist Board created the

Gastronomic Club as the first step in its strategy to help market and, thereby, boost

gastronomy tourism. The second step in the administration’s strategy to promote

gastronomy tourism throughout the region was the founding in 2007 of the Gastroteca by

the Directorate General for Trade of the Generalitat of Catalonia. This comprises a website

providing promotional and marketing support for local food products.

The dynamism of regional gastronomy is also marked in intellectual terms by the foundation of the

International Institute for Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism (IGCAT) in Catalunya in 2013. As

IGCAT has identified, gastronomy is no longer a solitary sector, but is increasingly converging with

culture, the creative industries and art, stimulating gastronomic tourism in its wake. It is now

coordinating the European Region of Gastronomy project, which has the stimulation of innovation as

one of its aims.

The new gastronomic creativity of Spain seems to be having an impact. Turespaña reported that

Spanish gastronomic tourism attracted 7.4 million international visitors in 2013 – 32% more than in

2011. These visitors spend on average €1,170 , 25% higher than the average international tourist,

and indicating a total market value of some €8.6 billion.

The secret of Spain’s success, according to the Hotel Management School of Madrid, is the great

culinary range that Spain has, the richness of the products, and the wide range of cooking them, in

addition to the creativity involved in their manipulation and preparation.

Portugal

Portugal has also attempted in recent years to position itself For example Beer, et al. (2002) describe

the development of the Atlantic Diet in northern Portugal to compete with the Mediterranean Diet

in the south of the country.

António Marques da Cruz, Secretary General of the Academia Portuguesa de Gastronomia and the

Co-ordinator of Prove Portugal, explains how Portugal embarked on a new project to market its

gastronomy. He identified five steps in the process (Marques da Cruz, 2012):

1. Characterisation of the national gastronomy.

2. Identification of the most attractive features.

3. Identification of the target markets.

4. Creating internal awareness.

5. Designing an external communication policy.

Marques da Cruz indicated that

In characterising a national gastronomy for Portugal, it was important to develop links

between the culture, the climate, agriculture, landscapes, eating habits and history. The

tourist must be able to understand the different regional gastronomies and how these vary

according to different food products, history and customs of the region.

Creating a clear message for tourists from abroad also means creating consensus about that

message at home. Although the activities of food critics, restaurants and hotels can have an impact

in foreign markets, they need to work in collaboration with national campaigns for maximum effect.

A network of stakeholders needs to be created that shares the values of the marketing campaign

and is able to support the development of the basic food product as well as sustaining the

gastronomic message that the country wants to transmit. Such networks should include not just the

food producers and restaurateurs, but also tourism schools, tourism associations and regional

tourism organisations. Such a network will provide the assurance of quality and continuity that is

vital to a successful campaign.

Once internal synergies have been developed, the external marketing campaign can be created. This

needs a slogan which represents, in a unique and authentic way, the gastronomic features of the

country. Under this umbrella individual messages can be developed for each target market and the

best means of reaching those markets can be identified. These may include international exhibitions,

PR campaigns, advertisements or collaborative campaigns with restaurants abroad. Advertising

gastronomy is advertising a pleasure, a culture, a people. Nourishment is a necessity, and

gastronomy is both culture and pleasure, t two important agents of touristic attractiveness.

The Prove Portugal (Taste Portugal) campaign, launched in 2010, is designed to mobilise public and

private sector actors to promote the gastronomic identity of the country and to develop Portugal as

a gastronomic destination. The website www.proveportugal.pt includes information on food and

wine, regional gastronomy, restaurants, recipes and events. Gastronomic routes are also featured in

the programme, including wine routes and the ‘Route of the Stars’ event, which links restaurants in

Portugal that have Michelin stars. Specific promotional events have also been organised, such as a

dinner during the 2011 Fitur trade show in Madrid, with star chef Bertilio Gomes. Unlike its Spanish

counterpart, however, the Prove Portugal campaign is led by the gastronomy sector rather than

tourism. The programme is co-ordinated by the Academia Portuguesa de Gastronomia.

A recent analysis of the Santarém Gastronomy Festival in Portugal illustrates some of the problems

with Portuguese gastronomy (Cardoso et al., 2014). This ‘national’ event has been running for 32

years, presenting the gastronomy of the different regions of Portugal. However, the presentation of

the event is dated and static, producing a lack of enthusiasm among many visitor groups. The impact

of the event has therefore become limited to the immediate region, and visitor numbers have fallen.

Portuguese cuisine is still characterised mainly by national rather than regional cuisine. There have

been some recent attempts to change this, although to date with little success. For example, the

“seven gastronomic wonders” of Portugal, selected in a competition organised by a company called

‘Sete Maravilhas’, which has organised similar competitions for natural ‘wonders’. The selected

wonders were Seafood rice, Serra da Estrela cheese, caldo verde soup, barbequed sardines, suckling

piglet Bairrada style, pastel de Belém and Alheira de Mirandela, all traditional dishes linked to

specific regions. The result of the competition was also announced in Santarém, home of traditional

Portuguese gastronomy. This is perhaps not surprising, given the organisation of the competition:

Candidatures to this competition were open to any company, restaurant or individual who

could present a recipe that was more than 50 years old, “genuine and represented

traditional Portuguese values.”

Differences in approach between Portugal and Spain

The more conservative approach to national gastronomy in Portugal may partly be seen as a

reaction to threatened changes to gastronomic habits from EU legislation (Richards and Hjalager,

2002).The legislation to define and protect elements of national gastronomy emerged at a time

when it seemed that EU controls might limit or eradicate the production of certain traditional foods

– a situation also faced in other countries (Ren, 2010). In Spain, as Ravenscroft and Westering have

argued, the more flexible combination of intellectual property protection and regionalisation led to

more creative approaches to gastronomy.

With the EU threat removed, the momentum also seems to have been taken out of the push

towards gastronomic national heritage in Portugal. The idea of an ‘Atlantic Diet’, launched by

Francisco Sampaio at the expert meeting held by ATLAS in 2001 (Hjalager and Richards, 2002) has

also not taken off.

One reason may be the governance of the gastronomic systems in both countries. In Spain for

example, gastronomy has become closely bound to tourism, with the development of gastronomic

tourism being stimulated by collaboration between the Ministry of Tourism and the Ministry of

Environment and Rural Affairs, with marketing activities being led by TourSpain. In Portugal the

Prove Portugal campaign is coordinated by the Academia Portuguesa de Gastronomia.

Innovation in gastronomy

Given that gastronomy has such a long history, it is perhaps not surprising that it is a highly

normative field, where innovation has traditionally taken place at the centre of production networks

and slowly diffused to the periphery (Rao et al. 2003). This system has continued until relatively

recently, for example with two- and three-Michelin-star chefs being the initiators of the nouvelle

cuisine movement in France that emphasized fresh ingredients, lighter menus, and greater

informality in service and presentation.

Increasingly, however, the focus of innovation has shifted into wider knowledge networks, which

also importantly include consumers as stimulators and arbiters of innovation. This is important

because gastronomy is increasingly becoming one of the ‘creative industries’, which as Potts et al.

(2008:10) argue:

… are the set of economic activities that involve the creation and maintenance of social

networks and the generation of value through production and consumption of network-

valorized choices in these networks.

We can identify these features very clearly in the gastronomy field, where chefs restauranteurs,

critics and producers are bound up in social networks in which the consumption and production of

food is valorized through the activities of a raft of gastronomic selectors, including consumers. This

structure provides an important link with the innovation process, as Wijnberg (2004) argues that

‘stylistic innovations’ (such as new foods, dishes and cuisines) operate through selection systems.

Much innovation in gastronomy may therefore represent stylistic innovation, which relies on the

taste judgements of selectors such as chefs, restaurant owners, critics and ‘foodie’ consumers. In

this sense, gastronomic selection in Spain has also shifted from what Wijnberg (2004) terms

traditional market selection, (where consumers select producers) to peer selection (based on

opinions of other producers) and expert selection (based on a critical infrastructure possessing

particular knowledge or expertise).

The important point about the expert selection process that operates in a system of stylistic

competition and selection is that the determination of value is no longer attached directly to the

production and consumption system. It is no longer enough to have a rich production base or an

informed consumer market. A gastronomic stylistic innovation system also needs to position itself

within the global flows of information that link selectors together. It is important to become a ‘hub’

in the global scene, a place in which selectors gather, rather than being a mere ‘node’ that only

receives selection information from elsewhere (Colombo and Richards, forthcoming).

This is exemplified by the Alimentaria exhibition, a major food show with editions both in Barcelona

and Lisbon. In 2013 Alimentaria Barcelona had more than 142,000 visitors, including 40,000 foreign

visitors from 60 different countries. In Lisbon the audience for Alimentaria & Horexpo Lisboa was

25,000, of whom 2,000 were international buyers. The vastly higher proportion of international

participation in Barcelona underlines the hub position that Barcelona has managed to gain in recent

years. This applies to the gastronomy scene, but it also relies on parallel developments in the fields

of tourism and culture that are important for positioning the city internationally.

Why is Spain more ‘innovative’ and Portugal more ‘traditional’?

There are a number of reasons why the level of gastronomic innovation appears to be higher in

Spain than in its Iberian neighbour Portugal.

One important factor is related to scale. Spain has a population of 47 million compared to 10.5

million in Portugal, and the size of the Spanish economy is therefore also much greater than

Portugal’s. This means there is not such a large domestic market for gastronomic products, which

according to Porter (1998) therefore should also lead to lower competitiveness and less innovation.

However, there are also other factors that seem to be significant. These include, for example, the

lack of a regional context for innovation in Portugal. In Spain, innovation has been driven largely by

specific regions with a dynamic gastronomy sector, such as the Basque Country and Catalunya. This

problem is also compounded by a lack of national gastronomy policy in Portugal, and their failure to

capitalise on concepts such as the Atlantic Diet. The lack of a critical mass in the gastronomic

superstructure in Portugal also makes it hard for the selectors in Portugal to influence national policy

significantly. The weight of the food value chain in Portugal lies in the agricultural sector, which

employed 10.5% of the working population in 2012, compared with 4.4% in Spain.

These factors mean that Portugal is also less able to influence gastronomic selectors at a global level,

where it acts as a node in the global gastronomy network, whereas Spain (and particularly Catalunya

and the Basque Region) acts as a hub at which gastronomic actors congregate. Gastronomic

selectors are forced to pass through the Spanish gastronomic hub if they want to maintain their

selection role, based as it is on the acquisition of information and knowledge in such creative

networks (Potts et al., 2008). If this turns out to be the major differentiating factor in the innovation

trajectories of Spain and Portugal, then it is important for Portugal to continue with programmes

such as Prove Portugal that are designed to increase the international profile of the cuisine. At the

same time, however, it is vital to maintain the traditional values of Portuguese gastronomy that can

conserve the culinary DNA that may be vital for innovation in the future as well. Particularly in terms

of tourism, maintaining a delicate balance between innovation and the conservation of ‘authentic’

gastronomy will be important in sustaining the gastronomic tourism market as well as for supporting

a healthy and dynamic gastronomic system in general.

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