BEAUTY'S NEW AGE - WWD

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 1

AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

BEAUTY’SNEW AGE

DECODING THE CHANGING

CONSUMER MIND-SET

JULIA ROBERTS ON

THE TAO OF AGING

INSIDE ASIA’S

HOTTEST MARKET

EYE SPY: BEAUTY

AND THE BIOMETRICS

REVOLUTION

TREND TREKKING

IN NEW YORK’S

HIPSTER HAVEN

POWERPOWEROF ATTRACTION

IRIS STRUBEGGER AND

THE EVOLUTION OF THE IDEAL

BIGGER AND

EVEN BETTER!

BB1002.001.IRISCOVER.a;19.indd 1BB1002.001.IRISCOVER.a;19.indd 1 2/4/10 4:02:29 PM2/4/10 4:02:29 PM

NEW

GÉNIFIQUEYOUTH ACTIVATING CREAM SERUM

A skin-perfecting serum infused with replenishing hydration.

Now, boost genes’ activity 2 and stimulate production of youth proteins.

3

Intensely nurtured, skin feels comforted, cushiony soft, retexturized.Skin’s hydration potential is maximized, its youthful quality returns:

smooth, enriched with moisture, as if infused with life.

shop at lancome-usa.com

1AAccttiivvaattee ss kkiinn’’ss yy oouutthhffuull ll ooookk.. Activate skin’s youthful look. 22 2 IInn--vviittrroo tt eesstt oo nn gg eenneess.. In-vitro test on genes. 3 CClliinniiccaall ss ttuuddyy oo nn ss kkiinn pp rrootteeiinnss,, aa ssssoocciiaatteedd ww iitthh yy oouunngg ss kkiinn –– FF rraannccee..Clinical study on skin proteins, associated with young skin – France.

Youth is in your genes. Reactivate it.1

Discover a skincare fi rst: CC rreeaamm SS eerruummCream Serum.

The power of a serum with your daily dose of hydration.

10 YEARS OF RESEARCH – 7 INTERNATIONAL PATENTS

8 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

THIS MONTH: CELEBRATING BEAUTY’S NEW AGE, DECODING THE POST–DEMOGRAPHIC AGE OF CONSUMER MARKETING AND A REVEALING LOOK AT WHAT’S SEXY NOW.

54 2824

15 STAR QUALITYFrom updos infused with texture to bright lips on a bare face, rounding up the standout red-carpet trends from the recent Hollywood awards show extravaganza.

18 PEOPLE, PLACES AND LIPSTICKS Scratch-and-sniff clothing, a blushing revival for cheeks and Aboriginal inspiration on the Upper East Side.

20 WHAT’S IN STOREHitting shelves now: innovative foundations with unique applicators and treatment-infused formulas, plus the ne plus ultra violet of fragrances and makeup.

22 INSIDE OUT: ROSEMARYUsed for centuries as a restorative cure-all, rosemary is just as popular today, heralded for its myriad beauty benefi ts.

24 VISION QUEST WITH MISHA ANDERSONExploring the hipster enclave of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and the area’s emerging beauty trends through the eyes of local salon owner Misha Anderson.

26 BRANDS IN DEMANDQuantifying the month in beauty, from the most-cited brands in magazines to the most-shopped cities in the country.

28 ON THE RADAR: JAC JAGACIAKA few moments with 16-year-old Polish modeling sensation Jac Jagaciak.

30 WORLD WIDE WATCH: SOUTH KOREAWith a consumer base as obsessed with skin care as it is with pop culture, South Korea is one of the world’s most booming cosmetics markets.

32 BEAUTY INCOGNITO: ANTIAGING SKIN CAREAt the counter with our intrepid undercover reporters, as they roam the world looking for great service and a selling proposition that will seal the deal.

36 HOT TO TROTOn the town and getting down, as Fabrizio Freda shares his chief executive wisdom with CEW, Julia Roberts marks her Lancôme debut and Beyoncé unveils her fi rst scent at a celeb-fi lled fete.

38 THE NEW SEXYShort-haired stunner Iris Strubegger proves strength and individuality are the sexiest qualities of all.

42 PRETTY PROVOCATIVE

As a new decade dawns, so, too, does a new beauty sensibility, one that celebrates a bold, strong, powerful vision of femininity.

46 CHANGE OF FACEFor the fi rst time in a decade, marketers are being compelled to rewrite the rules. The goal: To meet the needs of the new consumer mind-set, one in which the same old, same old holds absolutely no allure.

52 CURRENT HISTORY From the model of the moment to mascara wands, a look at the traditional versus new iconoclastic in beauty.

54 LIVE WIRED Forget focus groups. When it comes to gauging what’s hot, beauty companies are looking to biometrics.

58 ALL-STAR AMBASSADORWith her latest role as Lancôme global ambassador, pretty woman Julia Roberts adds brand spokeswoman to her long list of impressive credentials.

JAGA

CIAK

PHO

TO B

Y CR

AIG

MCD

EAN/

ART+

COMMER

CE; F

INGE

RPRI

NT B

Y PL

AMEN

PET

KOV; B

RIDG

E BY

RUD

Y SU

LGAN

/COR

BIS

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION

GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 31. February 12, 2010. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is

published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, July, October and December,

two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, and three additional issues in February, March and

September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750

Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman;

Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/

Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail

Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return

undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND

ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS,

ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA

91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most

recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless

we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes

undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues.

First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and

production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint

requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other

Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available

to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not

want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or

call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY

OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS,

PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS,

PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS

SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER

MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

ON THE COVER

Iris Strubegger photographed for WWD Beauty Biz by Anthony Maule. Makeup by Osvaldo Salvatierra at Streeters; hair by Kevin Ryan for R Session Tools; manicure by Deana Blackwell using Zoya for Artists by Next; styled by Polina Aranova at Streeters. Produced by Viewfi nders. Jumpsuit by Halston.

WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS

BB1002.008.TOC.a;17.indd 8BB1002.008.TOC.a;17.indd 8 2/5/10 2:58:02 PM2/5/10 2:58:02 PM

presented exclusively by

Introducing a new beauty collection from the famed jewelry designer

MASTHEAD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY

JENNY B. FINE EDITOR

JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR

ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR

JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET

BEAUTY EDITOR

MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR

MATTHEW W. EVANS BEAUTY NEWS EDITOR

BRID COSTELLO LONDON BEAUTY EDITOR

FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

LISA KELLY SENIOR COPY EDITOR

MANJOT K. BHATTI EDITORIAL INTERN

ART

DANILO MATZ ART DIRECTOR

PAMELA OLECKI CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTORS

SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (LONDON), MILES

SOCHA (PARIS), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN

(LOS ANGELES), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE

(BERLIN), ELIZABETH THURMAN (ATLANTA), AMANDA

KAISER AND KOJI HIRANO (TOKYO)

PHOTOGRAPHERS

JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER,

KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA

PHOTO

ANITA BETHEL PHOTO AND IMAGING DIRECTOR

ERIN FITZGERALD IMAGING COORDINATOR

CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR

LEXIE MORELAND, ASHLEY LINN MARTIN

PHOTO COORDINATORS

PATRICK MCCARTHY CHAIRMAN AND EDITORIAL

DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD, ASSOCIATE

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

ADVERTISING

CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE PUBLISHER

DEBRA GOLDBERG EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BEAUTY

SHELLY RAPOPORT EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

RON TROXELL WEST COAST DIRECTOR

ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS

KAREN CHIU BUSINESS MANAGER,

FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER, WWD

STEVE SOTTILE DIGITAL DIRECTOR

MARKETING/PROMOTION

DANIELLE MCMURRAY CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR

JAIME HOLLANDER SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

BRIDGIT KEARNS MARKETING MANAGER

TING WANG EVENTS & PROMOTIONS MANAGER

BENJAMIN GELINAS DESIGN DIRECTOR

DIANE HUNTLEY COPY DIRECTOR

STEPHANIE BROWN MARKETING COORDINATOR

PRODUCTION

GENA KELLY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR,

MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION

CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER

CIRCULATION

AP DUFFY CIRCULATION MARKETING DIRECTOR

RICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR

JOHN CROSS FULFILLMENT DIRECTOR

JAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTOR

A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION

10 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

BB1002.010.Masthead.a;9.indd 10BB1002.010.Masthead.a;9.indd 10 2/4/10 12:49:11 PM2/4/10 12:49:11 PM

NNNNEEEW

For best results

use with

88888888811111%%%%%%%%%%My lashes

seem

to be in

better

condition77777777777111111%%%%%%%%%%It seems

I have

more

lashes

77777777777755555555555%%%%%%%%%%%%%%My lashes

seem

thicker

77777777777888888888888%%%%%%%%%%%%I have less

lash loss

during

makeup

removal

AFTER 4 WEEKS WOMEN SAY...

FOR BOOSTED RESULTS**

Use daily underneath Double Extend

Lash Boosting Mascara and on bare lashes at night.

*Lashes appear multiplied with twice daily application of Concentrated Lash Boosting Serum: Underneath your mascara and on bare lashes overnight.**Consumer findings in a 4-week product test of daily usage of Double Extend Lash Boosting Mascara and twice daily usage of Concentrated Lash Boosting Serum. Learn more at lorealparis.com ©2010 L’Oréal USA, Inc.

Freida Pinto

YOU’LL SEE

MORE LASHES!*

Give us 4 weeks...

Minimizes lash loss when removing makeupMMi ii i l h l h i k

NEW BREAKTHROUGH

LASH BOOSTING TECHNOLOGY

MAXIMIZE YOUR LASH APPEARANCE

12 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

EDITOR’S LETTER

PHOT

O BY

RAN

KIN/

TRUN

K AR

CHIV

E

THE NEW BEAUTY STANDARD

ENCOMPASSES SOCIAL MEDIA,

ENVIRONMENTAL SAVVY

AND A GLOBAL APPROACH

TO HEALTH, WELLNESS AND

PERSONAL APPEARANCE.

Welcome to the new WWD Beauty Biz! This publication is a true refl ection of the industry that we cover. And as the beauty industry has changed dramatically, so have we—starting with this issue. We’re increasing our coverage to encompass all facets of the beauty world, including hair salons and spas; we’re increasing our circulation to reach every sphere of infl uence, from the traditional corridors of power in the retail and manufacturing arenas to the power brokers of Hollywood, Wall Street, publishing and fashion. And we have increased our size to better showcase what we all do so well—beauty.

The timing couldn’t be better. Over the last 18 months, the beauty industry has undergone a seismic shift. We’ve entered a new era, one in which the paradigm truly has shifted, one in which the consumer is setting a new standard for all of us to anticipate, embrace and follow. That standard encompasses social media, environmental savvy and a global approach to health, wellness and personal appearance that reassesses the very defi nition of beauty. As writer Danielle Pergament discovered while researching “Change of Face,” the implications for the industry are enormous. “New day, new rules, new consumer zeitgeist,” she writes. For a road map to the future, turn to page 46.

As part of that new zeitgeist, our notions of physical beauty are evolving, as well. For proof, look no further than cover model Iris Strubegger, one of the most in-demand models of the spring 2010 shows. No shrinking violet, Strubegger personifi es a bold new feminine ideal: strong, powerful and sexy. “Through tough times, women are asserting their strength by ditching pretty pastels and girly hair,” makeup artist Linda Cantello tells writer Dana Wood in “The New Sexy,” on page 38. “Wearing red lips and having short hair is the new cool, a badge of confi dence in unsettling times.”

Here at WWD Beauty Biz, we’re always on the hunt for the new cool, and as part of our redesign, we’ve introduced a slew of new features designed to keep our readers on the cutting edge. “Good Looking,” on page 15, delivers comprehensive coverage of the latest beauty trends (with the latest news from the red carpet), while in “Vision Quest,” on page 24, we embark on an insider-trend trek with a hair or makeup expert. “On the Radar,” on page 28, is where you’ll fi nd the 411 on the newest beauty taking the style world by storm, be she a model, actress or “It” girl, while in “Beauty Incognito,” on page 32, our global reporters embark on an undercover shopping mission to report back on the ever-shifting world of retail. After reading this issue, we hope you’ll be as excited about our new direction as we are. I’d love to hear what you think—e-mail me at jenny_fi [email protected] and let me know. —JENNY B. FINE

BRAVE NEW WORLD

BB1002.012.editor's letter.a;19.indd 12BB1002.012.editor's letter.a;19.indd 12 2/4/10 2:06:45 PM2/4/10 2:06:45 PM

www.beyonceparfums.com

©2010 C

OT

Y U

S L

LC

“STUNNING PERFORMANCE! THIS IS THE ROLE OF HER LIFETIME.”

—Critics rave

PUTTING THE WOW BACK IN VOW

BE A PART OF HER PRODUCTION Contact Carolyn Kremins VP, Publisher at [email protected].

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 15

STAR QUALITY

Kicking off the 2010 awards season, Hollywood’s hottest

actresses hit the red carpet with modern hair and makeup styles

that herald a new era of glamour.

GOOD LOOKING

COTI

LLAR

D PH

OTO

BY S

TEFA

NIE KE

ENAN

/WIR

EIMAG

E; L

AMBE

RT B

Y DI

MIT

RIOS

KAM

BOUR

IS; H

UDSO

N BY

JORD

AN S

TRAU

SS; C

AREY

, KRU

GER

BY JEF

FREY

MAY

ER; B

ARRY

MOR

E, A

NIST

ON B

Y ST

EVE GR

ANIT

Z; S

ALDA

NA B

Y TO

DD W

ILLI

AMSO

N/WIR

EIMAG

E; H

ENDR

ICKS

BY

JASO

N MER

RITT

; COT

ILLA

RD, S

EDGW

ICK

BY R

OBYN

BEC

K; R

OBER

TS B

Y TI

MOT

HY A

. CLA

RY/A

FP/G

ETTY

IMAG

ES; J

ONES

BY

DANN

Y MOL

OSHO

K; C

RUZ BY

PHI

L MCC

ARTE

N; K

IDMAN

BY

MIK

E BL

AKE/

REUT

ERS/

CORB

IS; W

ITHE

RSPO

ON B

Y AL

EX B

ERLI

NER; S

IDIB

E, M

ULLI

GAN

BY H

UGH

NORT

H; B

ARRY

MOR

E BY

MIN

AS K

EUKA

ZIAN

/RET

NA LTD

.; BU

LLOC

K BY

DON

ATO

SARD

ELLA

; COX

BY

JON

KOPA

LOFF

/FIL

MMAG

IC; B

LUNT

BY

HUBE

RT B

OESL

/DPA

/COR

BIS; K

LUM, C

ARPE

NTER

BY

FRAZ

ER H

ARRI

SON;

ALB

A BY

CHA

RLEY

GAL

LAY; D

IAZ BY

MIC

HAEL

CAU

LFIE

LD; B

LIGE

, SWIF

T BY

JASO

N MER

RITT

; KID

MAN

BY

KEVI

N WIN

TER/

GETT

Y IM

AGES

; MON

AGHA

N BY

PAU

L BU

CK/E

PA; C

OTIL

LARD

, BUL

LOCK

, BOS

WOR

TH, G

YLLE

NHAA

L, W

ILDE

, GAR

NER

BY T

YLER

BOY

E

MARION COTILLARD AGLOW AT THE GOLDEN GLOBES.

BB1002.015-17.REDCARPET.c;23.indd 15BB1002.015-17.REDCARPET.c;23.indd 15 2/4/10 1:52:52 PM2/4/10 1:52:52 PM

16 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

TEXTURE + VOLUME = NEWTEXTURE ANDVOLUME INFUSEDUPDOS WITH AMODERN EDGE.“I wanted a look that was

glamorous but with an edge,”

says stylist Robert Vetica of

Marion Cotillard’s Golden

Globes French twist. He

wasn’t alone. Volume and

texture modernized

the classic updo,

and made this

once-old style

seem young again.

SILVER STREAKFROM PARIS TO HOLLYWOOD,SILVER IS THE COLOR DU JOUR.Silver dominated the spring haute couture collections

in Paris, and it was equally as prevalent on the red

carpet, providing stars a soft, shimmery sparkle that

conveyed a luxe, low-key glamour.

GOOD LOOKING

EASY, BREEZY, A-LIST BEAUTY

UNDONE IS THE NEW DONE, WITH GENTLY TEXTURED

HAIR AND GLOWY MAKEUP REPLACING A HEAVY-HANDED APPROACH.

With legs like Jennifer Aniston’s, who

needs high-maintenance hair and

makeup? Aniston and her sister

stars, like Reese Witherspoon,

Julia Roberts and Nicole Kidman,

opted against the classic red-

carpet beauty approach—to

great effect. Softly tousled hair

and radiant skin proved to be a

beauty winner, statuette or no.

KATE BOSWORTH AT THE GLOBES.

MARION COTILLARD AT THE GLOBES.

JENNIFER CARPENTER

AT SAG.

PEAT

MAAT

GABOUREY SIDIBE AT SAG.

COURTENEY COX AT THE GLOBES.

MARY J. BLIGE AT PEOPLE’S CHOICE.

SANDRA BULLOCK AT SAG.

DREW BARRYMORE AT SAG.

KYRA SEDGWICK AT SAG.

KATE HUDSON AT THE GLOBES.

EMILY BLUNT AT THE GLOBES.

HEIDI KLUM AT THE GLOBES.

NICOLE KIDMAN AT SAG.

JENNIFER GARNER AT THE GLOBES.

JULIA ROBERTS AT THE GLOBES.

CAREY MULLIGAN AT THE SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS.

REESE WITHERSPOON AT THE GLOBES.

ZOE SALDANA AT THE GOLDEN GLOBES.

JENNIFER ANISTON AT THE GLOBES.


WWD BEAUTY BIZ 17

SIDE TO SIDEWHETHER LONG AND FLOWING OR TUCKED INTO ABUN, ASYMMETRIC HAIRSTYLES WERE DE RIGUEUR.Center parts are so 2009. Side parts, side sweeps, side buns—hairstylists channeled their

inner edge for a fresh take on glamour-girl waves and classic buns. Hairstylist Adir Abergel,

who coiffed winner Sandra Bullock for the Golden Globes, took as his inspiration the

marcelled waves of the Thirties, giving the actress a 21st-century bob with angled lines and

an asymmetric fl ourish.

KD,UR.

tions

d

that

GOOD LOOKING

BRIGHT IDEAPAIRED WITH ANOTHERWISE MINIMALISTAPPROACH, THE REDLIP WAS A RED-CARPETWINNER THIS YEAR.The red lip is no stranger to the red carpet. But

actresses managed to keep the look fresh this

year by pairing bright mouths with faces that

looked as if they had been freshly scrubbed.

The effect was more ingenue than screen

siren, lending a youthful glow to red-

carpet veterans and newbies alike.

SMOKY SENSATIONDARK SMOKY EYES PROVEDSEX APPEAL IS STILL ALIVEAND WELL IN TINSELTOWN.Smoky eyes paired with a nude lip made

for a high-impact, sexy statement—no matter

your gender.

LARD OBES.

ADAM LAMBERT AT THE GLOBES.

OLIVIA WILDE AT THE GLOBES.

DREW BARRYMORE AT THE GLOBES.

CAMERON DIAZ AT THE GLOBES.

CHRISTINA HENDRICKS AT THE GLOBES.

DIANE KRUGER AT SAG.

MAGGIE GYLLENHAAL AT THE GLOBES.

MARION COTILLARD AT SAG.

MICHELLE MONAGHAN

AT SAG.TAYLOR SWIFT AT PEOPLE’S CHOICE.

NICOLE KIDMAN AT THE GLOBES.

SANDRA BULLOCK AT THE GLOBES.

PENÉLOPE CRUZ AT SAG.

MARIAH CAREY AT SAG.

JANUARY JONES AT THE GLOBES.

JESSICA ALBA AT PEOPLE’S CHOICE.

UM AT OBES.


18 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

People, Places & Lipsticks

PPL

If you notice a fl ush of excitement come spring, don’t be surprised. Blush is making a comeback. “Blush is my favorite makeup-bag staple,” says Shiseido artistic director Dick Page. “Depending on the formula, color and placement, you can achieve a lot of different effects.” Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color, $30, is formulated with pearl and a dual optimizing powder for softness and vibrancy, while the colors in MAC’s gradient-style Blush Ombre, $25, can be swirled together. Rimmel London’s Lasting Finish Blendable Blush and Highlighter, $4.99, offers a trio of hues for mixing; N.Y.C.’s Blushable Crème Stick, $3.99, goes on like a cream and dries to a powder. Make Up For Ever’s HD Microfi nish Blush, $25, has mattifying, refl ective powders to blur imperfections. Says the brand’s Erin McCarthy: “Blush is the one product that can give women the instant illusion of youth and glowing skin.” —B.S.

Following a $60 million renovation, The Surrey hotel on Manhattan’s Upper East Side can now offer its clients a spa experience they’d be hard-pressed to fi nd anywhere else. At the recently opened second-fl oor Spa, located at 20 East 76th Street, treatment rooms (there are three, as well as two suites) are outfi tted in marble and earth-tone decor and contain a shower and a safe, as well as a hand-painted armoire to store personal possessions. But what makes the spa truly unique is its array of ancient Aboriginal healing practices, including the Kodo massage, a 60-minute, $150 service designed to realign the body’s energy “using a combination of 70 choreographed movements learned directly from the elders,” says Spa director Cheryl Jacobs. The Kodo, she explains, uses products from the Li’tya line, an Australian brand that incorporates an array of essential oils, plants and ingredients indigenous to Australia. —ANDREA NAGEL

WEARING SCENT TAKES ON A NEW MEANING WITH THE AROMA JACKET, ABOUT $630, MANUFACTURED BY ITALIAN MEN’S WEAR LABEL LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA. AS ITS NAME SUGGESTS, THE BLAZER’S FABRIC IS INFUSED WITH ESSENTIAL OILS, WHICH RELEASE THEIR SCENT WHEN THE JACKET IS RUBBED. SAYS ANDREA BENEDINI, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, USA: “THE SMELL OF THE FRAGRANCE IS MILD YET INTENSE. THE MORE INTENSELY YOU RUB THE JACKET, THE MORE THE SCENT WILL COME OUT OF THE FABRIC.” FRAGRANCE OPTIONS INCLUDE LAVENDER, LEMON, MINT AND HONEYDEW, AND THE SCENT LASTS THROUGH APPROXIMATELY FIVE WASHINGS. —JENNIFER WEIL

FRAGRANCE WARDROBE

UPPER E AST AUSTRALIA

Beginning April 10, one of the country’s largest botanical displays, Longwood Gardens, will host a multisensory exhibit that explores the fl owers and plants comprising iconic fragrances such as Chanel No.5. “Making Scents: The Art and Passion of Fragrance” will teach guests about scent composition and classifi cation, plant harvesting and extraction methods, as well as the chemical combinations behind synthetic notes. More than 260 aromatic plants and fl owers, like ylang-ylang, oriental lilies and scented geraniums, will be added to the Gardens’ existing collection of 5,500 species. Visitors will also learn about the science of smell and how the brain interprets scent molecules, which trigger moods, emotions and memories. 1001 Longwood Road, Kennett Square, Penn. —BELISA SILVA

DECONSTRUCTING SCENT

BLUSH HOUR

GAN

TER

AND

CERV

ASEL

PHO

TO B

Y GE

ORGE

CHI

NSEE

; PIT

T BY

JUA

N HE

RRER

O/EP

A; B

URTO

N BY

DZI

EKAN

/RET

NA D

IGIT

AL; B

ECKH

AM B

Y NO

EL V

ASQU

EZ/G

ETTY

IMAG

ES; B

RIDG

ES B

Y RD

/KIR

KLAN

D/RE

TNA

LTD.

/COR

BIS; P

ARTY

BY

HULT

ON A

RCHI

VE/G

ETTY

IMAG

ES; A

BORI

GINE

BY

CHAR

LES

& JO

SETT

E LE

NARS

/COR

BIS; ILL

USTR

ATIO

N BY

KAT

E DR

ENDE

L

BB1002.018-19.PPL.a;15.indd 18BB1002.018-19.PPL.a;15.indd 18 2/4/10 5:13:40 PM2/4/10 5:13:40 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 19

A hair-raising trend has cropped up among the hotties of Hollywood, rock and sports: full-on facial fuzz. Brad Pitt, Jeff Bridges, Sting, David Beckham and Spencer Pratt have all been spotted sporting beards gone wild. Beckham attributes his look to “pure laziness”—he just can’t be bothered with shaving. Despite female protestation, “facial hair is here to stay, at least in some form,” says John Allan, owner of the eponymous upscale men’s grooming sanctuaries. “The Eighties shadow beard and Nineties sideburns and outlines have morphed into this expression of freedom. Freedom—it’s a bohemian thing,” he continues, before laughingly adding a caveat: “Let’s hope this doesn’t morph into a topiary-esque situation.” —PALMER GAGET

BEARDS GONE WILD

The beleaguered economy has produced a bright spot for beauty’s at-home sellers—but it’s not just traditional companies such as Avon and Natura who are benefi ting from the boost. Brick-and-mortar retailers and even dermatological services are getting in on the action. Studio BeautyMix, the infl uential Santa Monica, Calif.–based indie retailer, and British-based natural brand Neal’s Yard Remedies have both embraced at-home parties and direct selling. “Shopping has ceased to be the social outing it used to be for people,” says Robin Coe-Hutshing, founder and creative director of Studio BeautyMix. “The people who actually want to shop want to do it in the privacy of their own homes.”

Neal’s Yard Remedies entered the direct-selling channel in the U.K. in April and has since registered 1,000 sales consultants and rung up sales of more than $3.25 million. “People are more willing to buy at home than in stores as they feel they’re getting real value for money,” says Denise Bonner, national training manager. “In a store, the customer goes to the counter, chooses the product and purchases it. They used to get their shopping fi x doing that, but they don’t get that now. With at-home selling, they build a relationship with the consultant and they can try all of the products. And that relationship doesn’t end with the party.”

On the service side, the California-based Destinations

Medical Spa offers at-home medical spa treatments, such as Botox. “The economy has made it more likely for patients to want to have treatments in their homes,” says Skyler Evans, chief operating offi cer. “People are having to work longer hours, which limits availability to go into a spa or doctor’s offi ce.” While Evans notes her fi rm has had to come up with innovative ways to maintain business, including offering interest-free fi nancing for many procedures, she adds women are unlikely to forsake injectables. They also enjoy the convenience at-home treatments offer. “We can accommodate a client’s schedule much more effi ciently,” she says.

—BRID COSTELLO

HOME SWEET HOME

Running a turn-of-the-century–style speakeasy and launching

a new fragrance line may seem disconnected, but for beauty

veterans Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel, the two pursuits

are perfectly synergistic. Co-proprietors of the Raines Law Room,

a chic, Prohibition-style bar in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, the

beauty execs (he was a founder of Selective Beauty, she, a veteran

at Fresh) are now readying the launch of Atelier Cologne, five

scents inspired by classic 300-year-old citrus-based colognes first

introduced in Germany. “There is an authenticity here that is also in

the colognes,” says Cervasel of the Raines Law Room. “[In both],

we wanted something interesting, something that would make

people happy, something that would make us happy.” The scents,

priced from $145 to $165, will launch in late February at Bergdorf

Goodman and Neiman Marcus; the Raines Law Room is at 48 West

17th Street. —B.S.

LIFTING SPIRITS

GAN

TER

AND

CERV

ASEL

PHO

TO B

Y GE

ORGE

CHI

NSEE

; PIT

T BY

JUA

N HE

RRER

O/EP

A; B

URTO

N BY

DZI

EKAN

/RET

NA D

IGIT

AL; B

ECKH

AM B

Y NO

EL V

ASQU

EZ/G

ETTY

IMAG

ES; B

RIDG

ES B

Y RD

/KIR

KLAN

D/RE

TNA

LTD.

/COR

BIS; P

ARTY

BY

HULT

ON A

RCHI

VE/G

ETTY

IMAG

ES; A

BORI

GINE

BY

CHAR

LES

& JO

SETT

E LE

NARS

/COR

BIS; ILL

USTR

ATIO

N BY

KAT

E DR

ENDE

L

BB1002.018-19.PPL.a;15.indd 19BB1002.018-19.PPL.a;15.indd 19 2/4/10 5:13:54 PM2/4/10 5:13:54 PM

What’s in Store

STYL

ED B

Y DA

NILO

MAT

Z

FROM MAKEUP TO FRAGRANCE,

PURPLE REIGNS IN THESE LUSHLY

PIGMENTED, VIOLET-

INFUSED OFFERINGS.

BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

ULTRA VIOLET

20 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

01 BALENCIAGA

BALENCIAGA PARIS

From the fi ercely chic

French fashion house

comes a bouquet of violets,

layered with mossy wood

and peppery notes. Housed

inside a bell jar–inspired

fl acon, the scent was

designed to olfactorily

interpret the paradox of light

versus dark. ($95; Balenciaga)

02 PHILIP KINGSLEY

PURE SILVER SHAMPOO

Specially formulated for

silver and gray strands, this

color-boosting cleanser

contains purple hues and

optical brighteners to

reduce discoloration. ($22; Bloomingdale’s)

03 GIVENCHY

PHENOMEN’EYES

EFFET EXTENSION

MASCARA IN PURPLE

IMPRESSION

This mascara’s rich purple

hue illuminates both light

and dark eyes. ($29; Sephora)

04 CHLOÉ EAU DE

FLEURS LAVANDE

One in a new trio of

minimalist fragrances based

on the classic fl oral families

used in perfumery for

centuries. Notes of violet,

iris concrete, cedar and a

tea accord blend together

for a clean scent. ($135; Saks)

05 MAC CRUSH METAL

PIGMENT STACKED 1

IN LIGHT LILAC FROST

AND DARK PURPLE

FROST

This ultrapigmented loose

shadow, in light and dark

shades of eggplant, was

formulated with a liquid

binder for extra creaminess.

($32.50; MAC counters and stores)

06 URBAN DECAY

STARDUST EYESHADOW

IN RETROGRADE

Violet light-refl ecting pig-

ments and powder-fi ne bits

of silvery glitter provide a

vibrant sparkle. ($20; Sephora)

07 HALLE BERRY

HALLE PURE ORCHID

This limited edition blend

of rare purple-hued

Masdevallia orchid, papaya

nectar fi zz, blackberry

crème and giant sequoia

interprets a woman’s allure

from day to night. ($28; Macy’s)

08 NARS NAIL POLISH IN

PURPLE RAIN

This limited edition shade is

a study in contrasts, its rich

plum both classically chic

and unexpectedly eclectic.

($16; Nars counters)

BB1002.020-21.WIS.a;17.indd 20BB1002.020-21.WIS.a;17.indd 20 2/4/10 4:06:51 PM2/4/10 4:06:51 PM

STYL

ED B

Y DA

NILO

MAT

Z

What’s in Store

STYL

ED B

Y DA

NILO

MAT

Z

WITH UNIQUE HYBRID FORMULAS AND INNOVATIVE

APPLICATORS, SPRING’S NEW

FOUNDATIONS HAVE

THE BASES COVERED.

BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO

ACES OFBASE

01 AVON MAGIX

CASHMERE FINISH

LIQUID FOUNDATION

SPF 10

Available in 12 shades, this

liquid mousse harnesses

Avon’s patent-pending

light-diffusing technology to

camoufl age imperfections

and visible pores. ($11; Avon representatives)

02 MAC MINERALIZE

SPF 15 FOUNDATION

A fusion of minerals, beet

extract, yeast and water,

this gel-based cream is

designed to minimize pores,

and deliver immediate

hydration and long-lasting

true color. ($32; MAC counters and stores)

03 L’ORÉAL PARIS

TRUE MATCH ROLLER

PERFECTING ROLL ON

MAKEUP SPF 25

The unique roller applicator

promises an air-brushed

fi nish and medium coverage

with the help of a creamy

formula infused with

emollients, waxes and a

silicone gel. ($14.95; mass retailers)

04 MAYBELLINE NEW

YORK INSTANT AGE

REWIND ERASER

TREATMENT MAKEUP

SPF 18

Goji berry and collagen

star in this formula, applied

with a domed sponge

applicator. ($9.99; mass retailers)

05 REVLON PHOTOREADY

MAKEUP SPF 20

Designed with the

unforgiving eye of a camera

lens in mind, this light-

refl ecting formula is said

to provide undetectable

coverage in any lighting. ($13.99; mass retailers)

06 ORIGINS YOUTHTOPIA

SPF 15 SKIN FIRMING

FOUNDATION WITH

RHODIOLA

This peptide-rich formula

features a blend of sweet

almond extract, wheat barley

and the reparative herb,

rhodiola. ($26.50; Origins counters)

07 PHYSICIANS

FORMULA MINERAL

WEAR TALC-FREE

MINERAL LOOSE

POWDER DUO

This loose powder

foundation comes

with a lighter shade for

highlighting and a darker

hue for sculpting. Use them

separately or mix with the

enclosed Kabuki brush for a

personalized shade. ($13.95; mass retailers)

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 21

BB1002.020-21.WIS.a;17.indd 21BB1002.020-21.WIS.a;17.indd 21 2/4/10 4:07:01 PM2/4/10 4:07:01 PM

22 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Inside Out

Since ancient times, rosemary has been used for a host of

health benefi ts—from improving memory to curing gout and

plague. Greek scholars donned rosemary wreaths during

examinations; Anne of Cleaves, the fourth wife of Henry the

VIII, wore a crown of rosemary to symbolize fi delity on her

wedding day.

Rosemary’s role as a beauty ingredient is equally as

prominent this spring. Serving as both an antioxidant and

anti-infl ammatory, extracts and oil from the herb’s leaves,

fl owering tops and branches infuse the newest skin and hair

care and fragrance.

Clinique’s new Youth Surge Night Age Decelerating Night

Moisturizer and Fresh’s Crème Ancienne Eye Cream feature

rosemary leaf extract, while Suave, Davines and Sunsilk have

all included the herb in their latest formulations.

“We trim the plants to extract the acid,” says Dr. Tom

Mammone, executive director of Clinique research and

development. “Rosemary calms skin, slowing the aging

process and allowing it to repair itself.”

Kiehl’s new Midnight Recovery Concentrate contains

rosemary essential oil for skin brightening and muscle

relaxation. “Rosemary retains moisture because it repels

water, keeping it trapped in the skin,” says Kiehl’s chemist

Dr. Angelike Galdi.

The herb is equally as versatile in hair care

formulations. Suave’s Professionals Rosemary Mint

Invigorating Clean Shampoo taps into its energizing

properties, while Davines uses rosemary extract to

help absorb UV rays in its Melu Mellow Thermal

Protecting Shield.

On the fragrance front, Coty Beauty’s Jovan

Satisfaction for Men features a heart of rosemary and

cedarwood, complemented by top notes of grapefruit

and basil and a drydown of tonka beans and amber.

Native to the Mediterranean region and a member

of the mint family, rosemary is a perennial plant, with

needlelike evergreen leaves, that grows in abundance

in large fi elds. White, pink, purple or blue fl owers

bloom during summer in northern areas and year-round

in warmer climates.

“This is a hearty plant that can handle arid conditions.

It doesn’t need a lot of water,” says Mark Blumenthal,

founder and executive director of the American Botanical

Council and author of The ABC Clinical Guide to Herbs.

“You can strip the branches and the leaves will grow back.

Historically, it was used as a tonic and as a stimulant

for energy, and was said to improve digestion and cure

nervous headaches.”

From decorating the heads of royals to

infusing centuries-old plague-curing potions,

rosemary’s ancient benefits for health

and wellness come to modern times in a slew

of nurturing products.

BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

PROD

UCT

PHOT

OS B

Y RO

BERT

MIT

RA

ROSEMARY

HERBAL REMEDIES01 Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, $42.02 Jovan Satisfaction for Men, $18.03 Suave Professionals Rosemary Mint Invigorating Clean Shampoo, $2.49.04 Sunsilk Captivating Curls De-frizz Leave-in Creme, $5.05 Davines Melu Mellow Thermal Protecting Shield, $30.06 Clinique Youth Surge Night Age Decelerating Night Moisturizer, $48.50.07 Fresh Crème Ancienne Eye Cream, $95.

BB1002.022.IORosemary.b;19.indd 22BB1002.022.IORosemary.b;19.indd 22 2/4/10 12:48:00 PM2/4/10 12:48:00 PM

BY MOLLY PRIOR

Misha Anderson has an eye for the real deal. She can spot a vintage coat or genuine cowboy boots, like the

kind sold at PFI in Missouri, from a block’s distance. “They’re authentic. That’s what I like,” says Anderson, co-owner of the salon-apothecary Woodley & Bunny in Williamsburg, eyeing the worn boots on a passerby. For Anderson, trendspotting is a global pursuit, as she scouts for little-known lines to retail and, in some cases, to distribute. “I love to fi nd holes in the market,” says Anderson, who fi lls her shop with Honoré des Prés’ organic fragrances from France, Taer Ice-landic skin care and the Swedish hair care line, Sachajuan. The assortment, like Anderson—who practices kung fu and is a former music director at Rolling Stone—is eclectic.

“Nothing is an after-thought,” she says. “It has to be authentic and real.” The same could be said of the vintage-inspired, trendy-yet-classic looks she singled out during a marathon trendspotting session in her hip ’hood.

Vision Quest: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

BRID

GE P

HOTO

BY

JEFF

SPI

ELMAN

/COR

BIS; S

TILL

LIF

ES B

Y GE

ORGE

CHI

NSEE

; LOC

ATIO

N BY

JOHN

AQU

INO

THE REAL DEALAnderson’s beauty

favorites include Kimia

skin care from the U.K.;

Sachajuan Hair Repair,

which uses skin care

ingredients in hair care,

and W3LL People Universalist,

a pigment-rich makeup

line founded by an ex-

Nars exec.

24 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

IN WILLIAMSBURG

WITH MISHA ANDERSON

VINTAGE ROCKSBright red lips offset by freshly

scrubbed skin. Fifties-style

cat-eye black liner with a natural

lip and cheeks. Both caught

Anderson’s eye, who notes that

what makes each look cool is

how understated they are. “You

can wear a color like that and

make a statement,” she says,

“—and it’s enough.”

Three Anderson discoveries: Sachajuan hair care, W3LL People Universalist makeup and Kimia skin care.

Inside Woodley & Bunny.

BB1002.024.VQwilliamsburg.a;14.indd 24BB1002.024.VQwilliamsburg.a;14.indd 24 2/3/10 5:23:49 PM2/3/10 5:23:49 PM

26 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Buzz-O-Meter

Bzzz

BRANDS IN DEMANDFrom beauty editors’ MOST-CITED brands to America’s

MOST-SHOPPED CITIES, a quantitative look at the MONTH IN BEAUTY. COMPILED BY CECILY HALL AND BELISA SILVA

This February, beauty editors went wild over L’Oréal’s beauty opus, 100,000

Years of Beauty, as well as Cover Girl’s colorful collection of smoky eye shadows and Revlon’s new lipsticks designed by makeup artist Gucci Westman. To see what beauty brands garnered the most magazine coverage, we counted the brand mentions in 15 leading publications*, not including cover credits, promotional offers and fashion story credits. HERE, THE TOP 16.

AVEENO 12 PT.

BENEFIT 07 PT.

CHANEL 12 PT.

CLINIQUE 07 PT.

COVER GIRL 13 PT. DIOR 09 PT.

ESTÉE L AUDER 09 PT.

GARNIER 07 PT.

KIEHL’S 06 PT.

L ANCÔME 11 PT.

L’ORÉAL PARIS 28 PT.

MAYBELLINE 08 PT.

NEUTROGENA 16 PT.

OL AY 10 PT.

REVLON 14 PT.

TARTE 06 PT.

*Allure; Cosmopolitan; InStyle; Elle; Essence; Fitness;

Glamour; Harper’s Bazaar; Lucky; More; O, The Oprah

Magazine; Redbook; Shape; Vanity Fair; Vogue

The Top Beauty Brands Ranked by Customer Loyalty PRESTIGE1. Estée Lauder2. Clinique3. Lancôme4. Chanel5. Shiseido

MASS

1. Mary Kay2. Maybelline New York3. L’Oréal Paris4. Cover Girl4. Revlon 5. Max Factor

Source: 2010 Brand Keys Customer Loyalty

Engagement Index

TOP U.S. METRO AREAS BY AVERAGE ANNUAL SPENDING PER HOUSEHOLD ON BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS METRO AREA ANNUAL SPEND PER HOUSEHOLD

“I’m not surprised to see Washington, D.C., at the top of this list,” says Charles Wetzel, president of Buxton.

“It is one of the few markets that is still primarily business professional and the desire to look good reigns.”

1 Washington-Arlington-Alexandria, DC-VA-MD-WV $402

2 San Jose-Sunnyvale-Santa Clara, CA $392

3 San Francisco-Oakland-Fremont, CA $376

4 Boston-Cambridge-Quincy, MA-NH $348

4 New York-Northern New Jersey-Long Island, NY-NJ-PA $348

5 San Diego-Carlsbad-San Marcos, CA $338

6 Baltimore-Towson, MD $335

7 Los Angeles-Long Beach-Santa Ana, CA $333

8 Hartford-West Hartford-East Hartford, CT $332

9 Seattle-Tacoma-Bellevue, WA $331

CREDIT WATCH

Source: Buxton Co.;

metropolitan statistical areas

are defi ned by the U.S. Census

Bureau; metro areas had to

refl ect a population of more

than one million residents

to be considered.

STIL

L LI

FE P

HOTO

S BY

ROB

ERT

MIT

RA; S

EPHO

RA B

Y ER

IC R

YAN/

GETT

Y IM

AGES

BB1002.026-27.Buzz.a;12.indd 26BB1002.026-27.Buzz.a;12.indd 26 2/4/10 1:55:19 PM2/4/10 1:55:19 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 27

Buzz-O-Meter

The Most Searched-for Beauty and Personal Care Brands (in order) on Google From January 1 to 18, 2010

Source: Google

1. JOHNSON & JOHNSON2. AVEDA3. LUSH4. SEPHORA5. WEN HAIR CARE6. BUMBLE AND BUMBLE7. L’ORÉAL8. ULTA9. VICTORIA’S SECRET10. BLISS SPA

SEPHORA’S TOP-SELLING PRODUCTS IN 2009THE CUTTING-EDGE RETAILER REVEALS

ITS BESTSELLERS FROM THE PAST YEAR. Source: Sephora

;

s

s

o

e

s

.

STIL

L LI

FE P

HOTO

S BY

ROB

ERT

MIT

RA; S

EPHO

RA B

Y ER

IC R

YAN/

GETT

Y IM

AGES

FRAGRANCE Sephora Favorites Women’s Deluxe Sampler

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Viva La Juicy Rollerball

HAIRNo Frizz by Living Proof

Ghd Mark IV Styler

Ouidad Climate Control

SKIN

Caudalie Premiere Cru

Philosophy Hope in a Jar

Perricone Cold Plasma

Sephora Sun Safety Kit

BEAUTYTOOLSClarisonic Plus System

Silk’n Hair Remover

MAKEUP Bare Escentuals Get Started Kits

Bare Escentuals Mineral Veil

Sephora Collection Blockbuster

Christian Dior Dior Show Mascara

BB1002.026-27.Buzz.a;12.indd 27 2/4/10 1:55:27 PM

putting the right slant

on beautyfor 30 years

tweezerman.com

TWEEZERMAN®

The Beauty Tool Experts™

The Choice of Make-Up Artists and Celebrities.

28 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

On The Radar: Jac Jagaciak

OTR

JAC

JA

GA

CIA

KFR

OM

HIG

H-J

UM

PER

TO

HIG

H-F

AS

HIO

N,

TH

IS F

OR

MER

ATH

LETE

HA

S Q

UIC

KLY

BEC

OM

E A

N I

ND

US

TR

Y D

AR

LIN

G—

AN

D S

HE’S

ON

LY

JU

ST B

EG

INN

ING

. B

Y C

INN

AM

ON

ST.

JO

HN

AGE: 16

HOME: Poland

BIG BREAK: An Hermès

campaign photographed

by Peter Lindbergh.

CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT:

“I can’t imagine my closet with

no leggings! Not only because

they’re comfortable, they also

looks good with any other kind

of clothing.”

The name on everyone’s lips is

“Jac.” At 13, she was tapped by

Hermès for its ad campaign. At 16,

she’s accomplished more than most

models have in a full career—she is

the face of Calvin Klein Collection

and has appeared in the Vogue

trifecta (U.S., French and Italian).

Top designers like Marc Jacobs,

Miuccia Prada and Oscar de la

Renta are clamoring for her on

their runways. Last season, she

opened an impressive six shows

in two cities. “This past year was

full of jumping and screaming out

with happiness when I got big

contracts,” Jagaciak says. Odds

are she’ll have more reasons to

celebrate in March when she makes

her Paris Fashion Week debut.

...BACKSTAGE AT ROBERTO CAVALLI.

...IN A 2007 HERMÈS CAMPAIGN.

JAC IN ITALIAN VOGUE...

...IN SINGAPORE HARPER’S BAZAAR...

...AT RALPH LAUREN...

...IN NUMÉRO MAGAZINE...

...AT ALEXANDER WANG...

ON THE RUNWAY AT MARC JACOBS...

...AT ETRO...

ITA

LIAN

VOG

UE P

HOTO

BY

CRAI

G MCD

EAN/

ART+

COMMER

CE; N

UMÉR

O BY

RIC

HARD

BUS

H; H

ARPE

R’S BA

ZAAR

COU

RTES

Y OF

SIN

GAPO

RE H

ARPE

R’S BA

ZAAR

; MAR

C JA

COBS

BY

ROBE

RT M

ITRA

; ETR

O BY

DAV

ID M

AEST

RI; C

AVAL

LI B

Y DA

VE Y

ODER

; RAL

PH L

AURE

N BY

KYL

E ER

ICKS

EN; A

LEXA

NDER

WAN

G BY

JOHN

AQU

INO

BB1002.028.OTR.JAC.a;20.indd 28BB1002.028.OTR.JAC.a;20.indd 28 2/3/10 5:24:40 PM2/3/10 5:24:40 PM

30 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

WW

In freezing temperatures in Seoul’s Myeong-dong district, young women stand outside

cosmetics stores trying to entice passersby to step inside. Wrapped up in thick, long overcoats, they hand out free samples while speaking a rapid barrage of Korean, Japanese and Chinese. Myeong-dong, a hip hangout for young Koreans and tourists because of its car-free streets and trendy cafes and boutiques, has a plethora of Korean cosmetics chains doing a brisk business even in the depths of winter.

Across from Myeong-dong, in the department stores Lotte and Shinsegae, where women in high-heeled black and tan boots get in and out of expensive European automobiles, sales of more pricy cosmetics are also roaring. The Estée Lauder Cos. says

KOREA’S SAVVY, POP CULTURE–OBSESSED

CONSUMER BASE TRANSLATES INTO BRISK SALES FOR BEAUTY COMPANIES AND A BROAD-BASED INFLUENCE ON TRENDS ACROSS ASIA.

sales of prestige beauty brands in South Korea increased 22 percent in 2009. That is more than double the growth of the mass market, which is dominated by the local companies Amore Pacifi c and LG Household & Health Care.

It’s no wonder that business is booming. Looking good has always been of the utmost importance for Korean women, a by-product of the country’s cultural heritage that includes the ritual of the bath and an ideal of porcelain skin. Women’s beauty routines here are the most intensive in the world. Korean consumers use on average six applications of skin care products in the morning and fi ve-and-a-half at night, according to Klaus Fassbender, president of L’Oréal Korea. “Koreans believe healthy skin is a refl ection of the personality,” he says.

South Korea is the world’s 12th largest cosmetics market. Last year, sales were about $6.6 billion, according to the country’s biggest cosmetics company, Amore Pacifi c. Amore Pacifi c claims a 34 percent market share, while imported brands had a 36 percent market share in July, according to the Korean Cosmetics Association. Currently, Estée Lauder, L’Oréal, Chanel and Dior have individual market shares of less than 5 percent, according to Amore Pacifi c, but their brands are the most highly sought after in department stores. This year, sales are expected to rise 10 percent, to about $7.3 billion, according to Amore Pacifi c estimates.

“We like to say that in Korea, the husband will go without his meal so that his wife can buy her cosmetics or lipsticks,” says Christopher Wood, general manager of the Estée Lauder Cos., Korea. “Women usually control the household

fi nances in Korea and as such have control over disposable income.”

Korea is one of Lauder’s top fi ve markets and among its

fastest growing.Beauty companies

are bullish on Korea. The local consumers

are eager to adopt new trends,

while the

BY BRETT COLE

Capital Seoul

Largest City Seoul

Offi cial Language Korean

Area 38,502 square miles (total); water (%) 2.9

Currency South Korean Won (KRW)

Population 48,508,972

Internet TLD .kr

Calling Code +82

NEON

SIG

N PH

OTO

BY M

ICHA

EL S

. YAM

ASHI

TA/C

ORBI

S; ICE

-SKA

TER

BY F

RANC

K RO

BICH

ON/E

PA/C

ORBI

S; S

EOUL

BY

JOSE

FUS

TE R

AGA/

CORB

IS; S

INGE

R BY

HEE

CHU

L KI

M/W

IREI

MAG

E; C

LIFF

BY

DE A

GOST

INI/

GETT

Y IM

AGES

KOREASOUTH

World Wide Watch SOUTH KOREA

BB1002.030-31.WWW Korea.a;17.indd 30BB1002.030-31.WWW Korea.a;17.indd 30 2/3/10 4:52:48 PM2/3/10 4:52:48 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 31

NEON

SIG

N PH

OTO

BY M

ICHA

EL S

. YAM

ASHI

TA/C

ORBI

S; ICE

-SKA

TER

BY F

RANC

K RO

BICH

ON/E

PA/C

ORBI

S; S

EOUL

BY

JOSE

FUS

TE R

AGA/

CORB

IS; S

INGE

R BY

HEE

CHU

L KI

M/W

IREI

MAG

E; C

LIFF

BY

DE A

GOST

INI/

GETT

Y IM

AGES

economy, which escaped the ravages of the global recession last year, is expected to grow 5 percent this year.

About 30 percent of beauty products are sold in department stores, about 10 percent are sold via door-to-door and 60 percent are sold through beauty stores, supermarkets, mom-and-pop stores, the Internet and TV home shopping channels. In the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies, most women bought their cosmetics from saleswomen who called at their apartments and also dispensed makeup and beauty tips. Older women still prefer personal sales calls, but younger women now like to visit the numerous stores that have popped up, including specialty chains and department store counters.

The popularity of cosmetics chains in Korea is the result of the 2003-to-2005 credit card crisis, which created a demand for low-priced products available in convenient locations. Missha was one of the fi rst such chains to have a coherent marketing strategy; a bright, welcoming interior, and a trained staff to advise customers.

In the ultracompetitive Korean market, though, Missha’s competitors were not far behind. Aritaum, Skin Food, Innisfree and Etude House mimicked the company’s approach, and have since begun to distinguish themselves by appealing to different consumers. Etude House, for example, is marketed to teenagers, while Skin Food and Innisfree are geared to those who want to buy environmentally friendly and natural items.

In terms of products, those related to Chinese and Korean traditional medicine, blemish balm cream and antiaging skin care were the main drivers of sales last year. Chanel reports that sales of its antiaging Sublimage line have grown about 25 percent per annum since its launch in 2006. Korea’s best-selling prestige brand, Amore Pacifi c’s Sulwhasoo, which is aimed at women in their 40s, boosted its sales 29 percent in the third quarter of 2009 versus 2008.

Blemish balm cream—called BB cream—is especially popular here, as the trend for women is to look as natural as possible.

The “bare face” boom has infl uenced Japanese women who come to Korea for short holidays to buy Korean cosmetics and get a taste of Korean culture. Young

Japanese women are avid fans of Korean soap operas, pop music and Korean fashion and beauty products. Blemish balm cream is now a top seller in duty free shops.

About 70 percent of the customers shopping in Etude House’s Myeong-dong store are Japanese, says manager Kim Mi-jin. Etude’s bright pink interior may aim to entice teenagers and twentysomethings, but it is the older women who spend money. “We have a princess concept, but it is women in their 30s, 40s and 50s who have money, and these women, particularly Japanese women, buy our products,” says Kim.

Choi Sook-kyoung, who manages a boutique called Global Cosmetic in Myeong-dong, says 90 percent of her customers are Japanese women, and the most popular products are BB cream, moisturizers, whitening products and antiaging skin care.

There is also the choc choc effect. Korean women like to feel that their skin is moisturized, or choc choc. Beiersdorf, for example, hired the popular Korean pop group the Brown Eyed Girls to sing its “Choc Choc” song to help spark sales of Nivea lip care products. Women here particularly like moisturizers that stay longer on the skin. Younger consumers prefer products to have a water feel, while those on the older side prefer an oily feel.

Sun protection is also very important. L’Oréal says studies have shown the sun’s ultraviolet rays are two times stronger in Korea than in Europe. As in the rest of Asia, tanned skin is frowned upon, and the demand for brown spot correctors is high.

Makeup sales are strong, too. Many link it to the country’s four distinctive seasons. MAC has become the brand of choice for wealthy women, while working women tend toward Bobbi Brown.

Still, non-Korean brands have struggled to establish a strong presence. Securing adequate distribution around the country, particularly outside of the major urban areas, has proven diffi cult, so

most brands are

reliant on department and duty free stores, exposing them to the vagaries of the local market. Last year, for example, Chanel went head-to-head with Lotte, Korea’s biggest department store, when the retailer wanted to change the size and location of some of its counters. Chanel refused and pulled seven of its counters from Lotte.

“The two companies had different business strategies and goals,” says Chanel spokeswoman Kim Young-eun. “Lotte has been and is still a very important business partner in Korea to Chanel.”

Japanese brands have also found it rough going in Korea. “Shiseido in Korea is not yet positioned well as a prestige brand,” says Shiseido spokeswoman Min Seon-young.

But there is hope for non-Korean cosmetics brands. The Internet

and TV home shopping channels may help boost their sales. Competition with Korean manufacturers may become less

fi erce. Korean middle-size cosmetics manufacturers such as Coreana, Charm Zone

and Hankook are now struggling, no longer able

to rely on middlemen to get them into mom-and-pop cosmetics stores.

On the marketing side, celebrity sells, with

“WE LIKE TO SAY THAT IN KOREA, THE HUSBAND WILL GO WITHOUT HIS MEAL SO THAT HIS WIFE CAN BUY HER COSMETICS OR LIPSTICKS.”

local pop singers and actresses tapped by many brands to endorse products. Kim Yu-na, a favorite for the 2010 Olympic ice-skating gold medal, appears in ads for LG’s Lacvert Ice Kiss lipstick, while the TV personality Lee Hyo-ri endorses LG’s Isa Knox’s whitening products. Amore Pacifi c uses actress Kim Tae-hee for its Hera lipstick brand and another popular actress, Lee Na-young, for Iope cosmetics, while L’Oréal has hired actress Ko Hyun-jung as the face of Lancôme.

Plastic surgery is also widely popular. One of the country’s most famous actors, Jang Dong-gun, reported that his “ideal” women would be dark skinned, have long hair, slightly creased eyelids, a small but sharp nose and a V-shaped face. Many women have surgery to correspond to that “ideal.” Before they start university, teenage girls go to Seoul’s Gangnam district, where many surgeons practice. Sunglasses and face masks protecting recently altered faces are widespread on the subway platform at Apgujeong Station in the summer.

The men’s market is also booming. Last year, two popular soap operas, Boys Over Flowers and Queen of Housewives, both of which featured young male actors, quickly won widespread appeal among women and motivated many men to improve their grooming. The result: “Pretty boys” are popular now instead of “macho men.” The online retailer D&shop says men’s skin care sales leapt 187 percent last year versus 2008.

Korean brands are expanding abroad, as well. Skin Food has 169 stores outside Korea, from the Middle East to Japan. Amore Pacifi c had 273 Laneige stores across Asia and 37 Amore Pacifi c stores in the U.S. and Japan. The company also plans to launch Sulwhasoo in China and the U.S. this year as part of its goal to be a top 10 global cosmetics company by 2015. The brand was number 20 in WWD Beauty Biz’s 2009 global ranking of the biggest beauty companies.

“The Korean wave, or Hallyu, of pop music, cinema and food is spreading over Asia,” says L’Oréal’s Fassbender. “Korea is a role model for beauty.”

BB1002.030-31.WWW Korea.a;17.indd 31BB1002.030-31.WWW Korea.a;17.indd 31 2/3/10 4:53:21 PM2/3/10 4:53:21 PM

32 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

ANTI-AGING

SKIN CARE

As winter takes its toll on complexions around the

world, our intrepid UNDERCOVER SHOPPERS

are on a mission for skin care. Here, their

INSIDE ACCOUNTS ON THE GOOD,

the bad and the just plain indifferent.

Beauty Incognito

BI

BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALLWith combination skin aggravated by a freezing

winter and intense indoor heating, I’ve been

ending up on the dry side of where I want to

be. Wrinkles are also, sadly, now my second

obsession after blemishes. It’s a fi ne balance

even in the best of weather. Could it be time for a

change? Only one way to fi nd out.…

BEAUTY MONOP’28 RUE DES ABBESSES

Convenience and a democratic approach to style

characterize both Monoprix and its beauty-only

satellite, Beauty Monop’. Housing a range of brands

(from dirt-cheap Le Petit Marseillais to fancy-pants

Leonor Greyl), the store aims to be like a Marionnaud

for the masses. Hence the hands-off approach to

service, even for France, with only two dedicated

staffers who mind the register, help customers and

keep the place clean. But man, they keep the place

clean. The store in my neighborhood is perennially

shipshape.

That said, when approached with my conundrum,

my salesperson was happy to help, even when told

I was not planning to buy that day. With a generally

young staff and a lot of brands to cover, it wasn’t

surprising that her explanation of different approaches

to combination skin was a little superfi cial, and not

ingredient focused. And her recommendations tended

toward brands over individual products. (Nuxe,

Sanofl ore and Cattier, specifi cally. Was it my outfi t or

did she intuit I often go for natural/organic lines on her

own?) Beauty Monop’ is probably best for someone

who already knows her stuff, but for overall ambiance,

politesse and range of brands, it’s hard to go wrong.

PRINTEMPS64 BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN

I’ve always been a fan of Printemps’ peaceful

shopping experience, and even during the busy

holiday season, the beauty annex did not induce a

claustrophobic panic attack. It’s well organized, with

clearly delineated brand areas, lots of light and a ton

of choices. But I got the worst of both worlds with one

hard seller (at Orlane) and one miserable jerk

(at Sisley).

Madame Orlane told me my real problem was that

I wasn’t using complementary products, meaning

I should be buying a whole line. With that she

recommended two, Orlane’s Anti-Fatigue and Anti-

Aging lines, and ticked off a list of ingredients and

benefi ts that had little to do with the schizophrenia

on my face. Of samples and literature, she had little,

though she did offer small amounts of each line’s

serum so I could compare them. It was only then that

she directed me to Orlane’s latest line, Hypnotherapy,

which purports to literally cut your skin’s response

mechanism off from negative emotions.

I could have used some at the Sisley counter,

where the saleswoman brusquely shoved two

products at me, Hydraglobal Intense antiaging lotion,

a known star for combination skin, and Complex au

Résines Tropicales, whose benefits I couldn’t quite

get out of her, because she had space to go back and

stare off into. She balked when I asked for samples

and had to be compelled to write the product names

down. Thanks for nothing! Literally!

SEPHORA21 BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN

Next I headed to Sephora. I picked the Boulevard

Haussmann fl agship. As usual, it was hopping. I had to

wait a few minutes to get someone’s attention, though

once I got her, I got not only her, but a rather complete

lecture on the difference between dry skin (not enough

sebum) and dehydrated skin (not enough water, which

it turns out is my problem right now). After four years

of living in Paris, I have grown only too used to the

didactic tendencies of the locals, so I couldn’t hold the

diatribe against my girl, who was otherwise professional,

pleasant and offered to speak English from the fi rst

moment my French faltered.

From the little Elizabeth Arden tag on her shirt, I

wasn’t surprised when she steered me to Arden’s

PARIS,FRANCE

PRIN

TEMPS

PHO

TO B

Y ST

EPHA

NE C

ARDI

NALE

/PEO

PLE

AVEN

UE/C

ORBI

S; S

EPHO

RA B

Y MIC

HEL

SETB

OUN/

CORB

IS

BB1002.032-35.BIantiageing.a;17.indd 32BB1002.032-35.BIantiageing.a;17.indd 32 2/4/10 4:14:51 PM2/4/10 4:14:51 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 33

Intervene Radiance-Boosting Moisture Lotion, claiming

it was the only antiaging product that was also

moisturizing and yet wouldn’t overgrease my T-zone.

Really? The only one? After a moment of refl ection,

she corrected herself and headed to Sisley for, yes,

Hydraglobal. Thanks to Sephora’s sampling program,

which uses its own tiny plastic jars, she gave me samples

of both. Perhaps there’s an opening at Printemps?

BY BRID COSTELLOWith a thirtysomething birthday looming, I

headed to Oxford Street to fi nd a new antiaging

skin care regime. An excess of festive cheer and

a trifl e too much dessert had also left my skin

with the Yuletide hangover of fi ne lines, dullness

and an impromptu breakout.

SELFRIDGES400 OXFORD STREET

Within Selfridges’ bustling beauty fl oor, the Chanel

counter, with its tweed-covered armchairs and chic

fi xtures, was a haven of calm. I imagined my fatigued

skin effortlessly taking on the allure of a fresh-faced

Vanessa Paradis with the help of the brand’s luxurious

potions. After an uncomfortable few moments

of hovering, an associate asked if I needed help.

Disconcertingly, after posing a few questions about

my skin concerns, she indicated I required the Ultra

Correction Line Repair range rather than the line

targeting the fi rst signs of aging. After a quick run-

through of the benefi ts, she suggested Anti-Wrinkle

Day Cream and Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream. I left—my

dreams of Paradis lost—with a sample sachet.

I tested out Clinique’s new corner next. I was

welcomed into the luminous space by an associate

who asked if I had time to take a seat. Her starchy

white lab coat and confi dent demeanor instantly put

me at ease. I was even more reassured when she

used hand sanitizer before touching my face. Using a

magnifying glass and a questionnaire, she determined

my skin type as dry-combination and suggested

Clinique’s basic three-step regimen in addition to

specifi c antiaging products, including Youth Surge

SPF 15 Age Decelerating Moisturizer. Before I left, she

gave me her card and said I was welcome to stop by

anytime for further consultations.

BOOTS361 OXFORD STREET

Crossing the street, I headed to Boots and stopped

at the Clarins counter. After the gleaming Selfridges

beauty department, the stand, though clean and tidy,

looked a little tired. An associate listened intently

to my concerns. She surmised that my skin was

dehydrated and plucked out suitable remedies. As

she smoothed creams on my hand, she advised me

to drink more water, take colder showers to improve

my skin’s tonicity and to exfoliate more regularly—all

of which she said would boost the performance of

the plethora of treatment products she’d lined up on

the counter. She also offered her own tips, including

mixing Beauty Flash Balm with foundation to create a

dewy glow.

LIBERTYGREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET

A couple of days later I went to Liberty, heading to

the Espa counter. Since it was early in the morning

and the store was quiet, I found it odd that the

associate felt it necessary to speak quite so loudly.

Even if I wasn’t yet self-conscious about my wrinkles,

I wasn’t keen for the entire department to hear about

my facial flaws.

I sampled a number of products on my hands

before she suggested I try Concept Regenerating

Moisture Complex, which she said was suitable for

“mature” skin. At precisely that moment I became

sensitive about my wrinkles and began to worry that

they were more obvious than I’d previously believed.

While I was aware that I’d gone to the counter in search

of an antiwrinkle solution, I wasn’t quite prepared to be

classifi ed as “mature”—an immature response, I know.

Teetering on the verge of a dermatological

depression, I decided to stop by the Ren counter.

After hearing about my—now more profound—wrinkle

concerns, the sales assistant shook her head sagely

and said Ren doesn’t recommend antiaging products

for women below the age of 40. Since she didn’t ask

for my ID, I felt reassured.

My relief was complete when, later that evening, I was

carded while buying a consoling bottle of (antioxidant-

rich) wine. Perhaps in the future I’ll steel myself with

Dutch courage before my next face care foray.

DALLAS,USA

LONDON,ENGLAND

BY HOLLY HABERAs lady luck would have it, an assignment to

shop for weather-proofi ng moisturizers landed

in my in-box just as Dallas sashayed into its brief

winter and I ran out of Natura Bissé’s ultrarich

Diamond Extreme cream. My skin tightened,

begging for help.

SEPHORA220 NORTHPARK CENTER

I found it in grand style at Sephora at NorthPark

Center. The greeting could have been quicker, but the

rest of the experience was unexpectedly divine: I was

pampered with a 15-minute facial, a hand massage and

a sympathetic ear.

Why so luxe? In another happy coincidence, the

sales associate who heard my dry skin lament led me

straight to the visiting trainer for Fresh cosmetics. She

nodded empathically upon hearing my woes and asked

if I was also concerned with aging. Affi rmative.

“I have two creams for you,” she said. “Crème

Ancienne, which will lock in moisture for eight hours

and is a favorite with fl ight attendants, and Black Tea

[Age-Delay] Cream.”

PRIN

TEMPS

PHO

TO B

Y ST

EPHA

NE C

ARDI

NALE

/PEO

PLE

AVEN

UE/C

ORBI

S; S

EPHO

RA B

Y MIC

HEL

SETB

OUN/

CORB

IS


34 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Beauty Incognito

She showed how to emulsify the pasty Ancienne

cream and dabbed it on my neck, recommending I also

consider Black Tea Instant Perfecting Mask. Did I have

time for a short facial? Oh, yes.

She explained the ingredients while cleaning my

face, applying the fragrant cucumber Black Tea mask

and stroking Brown Sugar Body Cream slowly into

my parched hands. This was nice. Very. Finally she

smoothed on moisturizer.

My skin glistened, and I felt blissfully relaxed. Had I

been a serious shopper willing to spend $200, I would

have bought the mask and cream. Instead, I expressed

sincere gratitude and said I’d see how my skin felt. She

responded graciously, sure that a happy customer—

even one who didn’t drop cash—is the best kind.

DILLARD’S100 NORTHPARK CENTER

I also had helpful, professional service at Dillard’s. I

was in the cosmetics department perhaps a minute

before an Estée Lauder specialist greeted me and

guided me to a chair.

“It used to be you could just use a moisturizer,

but now, with pollution and free radicals, you need a

serum,” she said.

She smoothly pitched Perfectionist Wrinkle Lifting

Serum and Resilience Lift Extreme for daytime, along

with Advanced Night Repair and a night version of

Resilience, daubing each on the backs of my hands.

They felt soothing, and she noted that Night Repair had

recently been souped up with a new formula.

“It works,” she assured me, claiming she had used

the products for a decade.

Her skin looked pretty damn good. Was she really

60, like she said? Was it great genes? Surgery? Or

could the unguents be that effective? It was tempting to

give them a whirl.

WHOLE FOODS MARKET11700 PRESTON ROAD

My fi nal stop was Whole Foods. This chain oozes

friendly green benevolence, but it’s still a grocery

store, and service is apparently by request. When a

cosmetics associate wouldn’t budge from her computer

or acknowledge any of the four shoppers in the aisle, I

asked for help with parched skin.

She instantly recommended Dr. Hauschka’s Rose

Day Cream. It’s not emollient enough for me, I said.

She looked surprised, and redirected me to Ann Webb

Skin Organics. I tested several moisturizers, deciding

the Premium Raspberry Cocoa cream was a fantastic

bargain at $17.95 for 1 oz. She also suggested Dr.

Hauschka’s moisturizing masks and gave me samples.

Two points. She then recommended fi sh oil supplements,

earning two more points for the holistic approach.

SOGO555 HENNESSY ROAD

Next, I headed to Causeway Bay, to drop by the

popular department store Sogo. At Helena Rubinstein,

I began browsing through the antiaging products.

It took less than 20 seconds for the salesperson to

approach me. I asked if the Prodigy range was good

for dry and sensitive skin. She confi rmed the product’s

effectiveness, squirted some serum onto the back of

my hand and told me the price. While friendly, she also

seemed a trifl e impatient. I had the feeling I was being

dismissed, so I headed to Shiseido.

Although customers were three-to-four deep at

Shiseido, I was acknowledged immediately by a very

busy salesperson. Somewhat guiltily, I told her I was

looking for antiaging products. She pointed out two

ranges: Benefi ance and Revital, saying that either

would meet my needs. She handed me tester bottles

and asked a free colleague to help, telling her exactly

what I had requested.

My new salesperson started by showing me the

Revital range, with special emphasis on Wrinklelift

AA serum. After telling her I was worried about using

retinol on my sensitive skin, she promptly switched

to the benefits of Benefiance. She also showed me

a complete guide to the products, answering every

one of my questions and looking closely at my face

to see just what I needed and where. Happily for my

conscience, I really was in need of a moisturizer,

so I purchased the day cream and serum (about

$103 for both). She threw in samples of the other

products in the range so that I could try the entire

skin care regime at home.

SASA10 KAI CHUI ROAD

One block away, I went into Sasa, Hong Kong’s

most popular beauty discount chain store. I headed

to the back, looking over numerous products. I

looked and looked and looked. After five minutes,

a salesgirl said, “Welcome to Sasa,” while walking

BY CONSTANCE HAISMA-KWOKIn Hong Kong, retail is king, but service varies

from insulting to inspired, no matter where

you shop.

HARVEY NICHOLSTHE LANDMARK, 15 QUEEN’S ROAD

I strode into Harvey Nichols. My target was the Beyond

Beauty section, which features numerous cult brands

and special offers. The displays were crowded and

eye-catching, with the trendiest-looking products front

and center.

In seconds, a salesperson asked if I needed anything

in particular. I asked her to recommend an antiaging

line and she huddled with two colleagues. Unanimously

they chimed, “StriVectin.” I was surprised—she hadn’t

asked if I had dry skin or sensitive skin. She didn’t look

to see if I had wrinkles to plump or age spots to fade.

She told me StriVectin was from the U.S.,

developed by dermatologists, good for face or tummy,

and a better deal (about $205) if I bought the large

bottle. I asked her for more information, but she only

had a handout in traditional Chinese (bad news for

English speakers and Mainland Chinese shoppers).

HONG KONG, CHINA

DUAN

E RE

ADE

BY R

OBER

T MIT

RA


WWD BEAUTY BIZ 35

Neither does the consultant for Clinique. She only

shows me three products, Youth Surge Day, Youth

Surge Night and Repairwear Eyecream. She writes

them on a copy of her card. Her handwriting is hard

to read. A quick pit stop at La Prairie reveals that the

only right thing for me is the most expensive of their

lines. The salesperson suggests the travel set, a mere

$270, with generous helpings of these products.

DUANE READETHIRD AVENUE BETWEEN 52ND AND 53RD STREETS

The sales associate at a Duane Reade in the 50s

diagnoses my problem before I even named it. “Dry,”

she says definitively. And I thought my skin looked

pretty smooth! Her name is tattooed on her wrist

(so that she doesn’t forget it?), and she points out

as she does it that she has just used hand sanitizer

as if this were a big novelty. Yikes! This needs to be

mentioned?

She carefully lays out several facial tissues and

cotton pads before beginning. It seems that what I

need is in the Lierac line, specifically Hydra Chrono

Balm Very Dry Wash and Toner and a Clarifying Scrub.

She helps me put each of these in succession on one

of my two hands, then asks me to compare the one

that has been washed, scrubbed and moisturized with

the one that hasn’t been thus treated. The treated

hand does indeed look quite a bit better. As she is

applying these items to my skin, she is interrupted

several times by shoppers in the cosmetics area,

whom she goes to help. She has no samples to offer,

but is willing to write out the names of the suggested

products on a piece of lined paper.

In sum, the most helpful beauty consultant by

far was at Shiseido, where I felt very pampered

and attended to. She was also much the oldest,

several decades older than the Duane Reade

consultant, and experience might have spurred her

conscientiousness. And that isn’t just woman-of-a-

certain-age solidarity.

past me. After another minute, she asked if she could

help. I asked about a good antiaging line and she

recommended either Swiss Premium or Nuxe. I asked

her the difference and she said that Nuxe has natural

ingredients, while Swiss Premium is more expensive

and very popular.

I said it was too bad there wasn’t a range that

combined both the natural ingredients of Nuxe with

the effectiveness of the Swiss products

and she said, “Oh, you should try Caudalie, then.”

Besides noting that Caudalie is made from grapes

and that I could get an eye serum with a purchase

of the Grand Cru lotion, she didn’t say much more. I

left—noting with some satisfaction that the Shiseido

cream I purchased at Sogo was $11 more at Sasa.

BY LORNA KOSKIIn winter, even young women’s skin can look fl aky—and I am no longer young. My skin looks dull. It does go with the strawlike texture of my hair. But let’s climb only one beauty mountain at a time: I need to fi nd a new skin care regimen.

BLOOMINGDALE’S59TH STREET AND LEXINGTON AVENUE

I head to Bloomingdale’s, where the beauty area

has recently undergone an extensive facelift, and

the changes are dramatic. It looks lighter and more

welcoming, with wider aisles and individual stations

devoted to brands. Many glitter enticingly—so many

beauty products, so little time.

I go to Shiseido, where I encounter a consultant,

who takes me in hand. She first tells me about a new

product, BioPerformance Super Corrective Serum,

then, using a small wand, puts some on one of my

hands. She goes on to show me Future Solution and

Benefiance products in considerable variety, rubbing

each into a different spot on my hand and wrist. My

hands and wrists feel very soft. When I ask her for

a list of her suggestions, she pulls out a Skin-Care

Planner, which has small photos of the products next

to the full name of each. She checks the ones she

has tested on me, writes out the name of the Super

Corrective Serum, which is not yet shown on the card,

then staples her card to the planner. She suggests

that I might like to get a facial massage at upcoming

events to be held January 26 and 27, and urges me

to call her. The planner list is very helpful. But she

doesn’t have any samples.

NEW YORK,USA

DUAN

E RE

ADE

BY R

OBER

T MIT

RA

BB1002.032-35.BIantiageing.a;17.indd 35 2/4/10 4:15:38 PM

Vote: Open Feb. 15th – March 8th

Sample:March 3rd

Product DemonstrationMetropolitan Pavilion

Win: May 21st

Beauty Awards Luncheon

The

InDusTry Will Be

WATchIng.

WWW.ceW.org

36 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

KNOW

LES

PHOT

O BY

KRI

STEN

SOM

ODY

WHA

LEN; C

EW B

Y ST

EVE

EICH

NER;

LAN

CÔME

BY E

MAN

UELE

SCO

RCEL

LETT

I

Flash Point

In January, some superhigh-profi le appearances heated up one of the coldest months in years. In Paris, a bevy of journalists and Lancôme executives gathered to celebrate Julia Roberts’ new role as the brand’s global ambassador. Seventy-fi ve people—from as far afi eld as Japan, Russia and the U.S.—dined at a sit-down dinner in the elegant Hôtel de La Monnaie building on Paris’ Left Bank. Among those celebrating Roberts’ latest role: French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld, photographer Mario Testino (he shot the campaign) and Sarah Brown and Emily Dougherty of Vogue and Elle, respectively, as well as Lancôme’s Marc Menesguen and Youcef Nabi. Later that month in New York, Fabrizio Freda, chief executive offi cer of the Estée Lauder Cos., attracted the industry’s heavy hitters as the featured speaker at Cosmetic Executive Women’s Newsmaker Forum. On hand at the sold-out event to hear Freda’s insights about leadership, creativity and global opportunities were Pete Nordstrom, Pamela Baxter, Claudia Poccia, Carol Hamilton, Heidi Manheimer and Jill Scalamandre (who moderated the discussion), plus a slew of senior Lauder executives. And February’s chill caught some much-needed heat on February 2 at a private apartment in Union Square, when Coty and Beyoncé Knowles threw a star-studded party for her new scent, Beyoncé Heat, just two days after the superstar’s history-making appearance at the Grammy Awards. Usher, Michelle Williams and, natch, Knowles’ husband, Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter, were among the revelers, joined by Coty’s Bernd Beetz, Renato Semerari and Steve Mormoris. “After I won my sixth Grammy, my husband leaned over and whispered, ‘You have six Grammys and you smell good,” the star—resplendent in a bright red ruffl ed mini—told WWD Beauty Biz with a light giggle.

HOT TO TROT

Steve Mormoris

Nathalie Tollu

Linda Singh, Rose Eckert, Cosimo Policastro, Denise McEvoy and Yara Karmiloff.

Michelle Williams

Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter

Sarah Brown, Kerry Diamond and Emily Dougherty.

Youcef Nabi, Julia Roberts and Marc Menesguen.

Pete Nordstrom

Mary-Ann Freda

Carlotta Jacobson

John Demsey

Fabrizio FredaClaudia PocciaCarol HamiltonAnne Carullo

Jeanette Wagner

Theo Spilka

Outside the Beyoncé Heat fete.

Usher

Bernd Beetz

Beyoncé Knowles

Jill Scalamandre and Heidi Manheimer

Carine Roitfeld and David Souffan

Lynne Greene

Mario Testino

BB1002.036.PARTY.a;13.indd Sec1:36BB1002.036.PARTY.a;13.indd Sec1:36 2/5/10 2:53:56 PM2/5/10 2:53:56 PM

SAVE THE DATE: MAY 10-12, 2010

It’s time for a fresh start. We invite retail and beauty CEOs

to join us for three days of exchange and insight.

Call 212-630-4947 or email [email protected] for more information.

MAY 10-12 | THE BREAKERS HOTEL | PALM BEACH, FLORIDA

BeautyCEO Summit

AFreshStart

SPONSORED BY

PH

OTO

BY A

NTO

INE V

ER

GLA

S

38 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

BB1002.038-45.Iris.b;21.indd 38BB1002.038-45.Iris.b;21.indd 38 2/3/10 5:10:23 PM2/3/10 5:10:23 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 39

Str

ong. P

ow

erfu

l. B

old

. M

odel

Iris

Str

ubegger p

ersonifi

es

the s

eason’s

most

com

pellin

g v

isio

n o

f beauty

.

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

ED

BY

AN

TH

ON

Y M

AU

LE


40 WWD BEAUTY BIZ


Ope

ning

spr

ead:

Sw

eate

r by

A

lexa

nder

Wan

g.Th

is p

age:

Dre

ss b

y Pr

ada;

ear

ring

s by

Fl

utte

r.


42 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

ue the warrior women. At the dawn of the new decade, members of the fairer sex are on a power trip, toughening up the way they present themselves to the world and tossing traditional notions of “sexy” into the beauty abyss.

Emerging during the spring 2010 ready-to-wear collections in the U.S. and Europe, this new

aesthetic—this of-the-moment spin on femininity—paired a cropped, boyish haircut; sculpted cheeks, and a muddied makeup palette with one of the few bona fi de directions in fashion: men’s wear for women. At show after show, “the new sexy” powered down the catwalks in New York, London, Paris and Milan. To wit: Narciso Rodriguez, Ruffi an, Christopher Kane, Versace, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana were just a few of the houses that put forth this powerful, don’t-mess-with-me vision of bold femininity.

Central to the season’s agenda were the rising runway stars who embody the look, including Tao Okamoto, Ranya Mordanova and this issue’s cover model, Iris Strubegger. [For more on Strubegger, see “Iris in Bloom” at right.]

These are the models over whom insiders are swooning, and for good reason: Collectively, they’re pushing the parameters of what it means to look confi dent and sexy, circa 2010. “It’s about strong faces, a sense of power,” says salon owner Sally Hershberger. “It’s a powerful look.”

Not merely an androgyny redux, the new sexy is a brilliant mash-up of boyishness and glamour. According to beauty gurus, it owes much to legendary women who aren’t afraid to pair a swipe of crimson lipstick with a tuxedo and a crisp white shirt. Makeup superstar Dick Page rattles off a tidy list of inspirations, from Coco Chanel, Lauren Hutton and Isabella Rossellini to Brit ubergallerist Sadie Coles. “She has a little boy’s haircut,” Page says of Coles, “and a chic way of dressing—a simple suit, nice blouse, a good loafer. It’s a bit Jil Sander–y, in a sense. She’s incredibly smart and very, very chic.”

In Page’s opinion, Strubegger and company recall

the Nineties, when minimalist fashion ruled and artifi ce was roundly shunned. “These new girls who have this toughness—or at least this kind of apparent toughness—hark back to what I always think of as that Peter Lindbergh/Helmut Lang stable: Tatjana Patitz, Cordula Reyer, Lynn Koester,” he says. “Those were women who looked like they could really f–k you up.”

To make room for spring’s tougher beauty gestalt, obviously something had to go. And for the moment, it seems lush curls, pink lips and cheeks and any outward vestiges of girliness just aren’t cutting it as a way to soldier through a world rife with economic collapse, terrorism, climate change and all that other worrisome stuff.

“Through tough times, women are asserting their strength by ditching pretty pastels and girly hair,” says Linda Cantello, who notes that Giorgio Armani, for whom she now serves as international makeup artist, has long celebrated strong, confi dent women. “Wearing red lips and having short hair is the new cool,” Cantello says, “a badge of confi dence in unsettling times.”

For Guido Palau, Redken creative consultant and the stylist who created the looks at Calvin Klein, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Balenciaga, among many others for spring, the shift to shorter hair was both inevitable and a refreshing change. “For so long, we’ve seen long hair,” he says. “It was only a matter of time before someone decided to cut all their hair off in rebellion. And it’s these kinds of rebellions that can seem quite liberating.”

Of course, not every model is chopping her hair off. (At least not yet.) So to that end, slick, scraped-back styles ruled on spring runways. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, for instance, coifs were clipped, rather charmingly, with barrettes. At Celine, sleek buns set the stage for sharp cheekbones, carved with neutral blush. For Versace, boyishness played out in a round of rockabilly, Elvis-esque pompadours. And when hair was left loose, as it was at Burberry, that undone vibe—manifested in the soft pink lips and those sculpted cheeks again, too—telegraphed a strong, “I’m too busy to endlessly fuss” message.

Although it bucked the men’s wear trend in favor of graceful, apocalyptic tatters, Rodarte came down squarely on the side of powerful women with its stunning

BY DANA WOOD

When the going

gets tough,

the tough

get gorgeous.


WWD BEAUTY BIZ 43

spring show. According to Laura Mulleavy, who designs the line alongside her sister, Kate, the beauty look was informed by the haunting, end-of-days story the duo was weaving with the clothes: “There’s a girl who’s lost in the desert, and the only place she can fi nd for refuge is this abandoned house. And all that’s in it is tattered wallpaper and a worn-out quilt—anything that would actually be a material that she’d put her clothing together out of. So it was all ragged and ruined. And then she crawls into a cave, spontaneously combusts and becomes a California condor.”

As anyone in fashion will tell you, you had to be there. Literally. Courtside seating at Rodarte is one of the hottest tickets in town. Where else would you see such an unlikely beauty icon—a hideous bird that’s on the verge of extinction—be translated by hairstylist Odile Gilbert and makeup artist James Kaliardos into some of the most compelling beauty looks of the entire season? Think locks scraped off the face and shrouded in wool, warrior-esque tribal art snaking around bare arms and tough-as-nails black cherry lips.

“For the lips, James and Kate and I always envisioned an East L.A. girl—someone who has a slightly tougher attitude toward everything,” Mulleavy notes. “When you’re creating a show, you have to think about beauty as a way to take people to new places. That’s the really exciting thing about even the lipstick tone you choose. It really lets people believe something.”

If looking tough—via either Rodarte’s shredded tunics and tribal tattoos or a razor-sharp Dolce suit, slicked hair and bright lips—serves as visual shorthand for female confi dence, economic independence can help women move the needle from aspiration to reality.

Whether borne of fi scal necessity or genuine career lust, women are staking their claim on the job market in record numbers. According to recent stats from The Economist, females now account for more than half of the global workforce—a fact the magazine hails as “one of the most remarkable revolutions of the past 50 years.”

In the ramp-up to this seismic shift, traditional societal roles have gradually fl ip-fl opped. “One very strong movement of recent years is the feminization of men and the masculinization of women,” says Choong W. Park, a professor of marketing at the University of Southern California’s Marshall School of Business and an expert on consumer behavior. “We used to think that men needed to be very strong, but now society is more appreciative of their soft and sensitive side. Now that women are competing with men for jobs, we tend to admire those who are more independent and very active.”

While it’s ostensibly easier for women to latch on to male trappings (i.e., any of the chic men’s wear looks served up for spring) than vice versa, Park points to the co-opting of facials, plastic surgery and earrings by men as support for his theory that we’re drifting toward a type of nebulous gender neutrality. “Androgyny is the tidal wave of the future,” he says. “I don’t think this is a fad. It’s a sustainable movement.”

Page is in full agreement that the new sexy is here to stay. Not every woman will embrace a shift away from overt girliness, he says, but plenty will. “If you’re a woman who enjoys all the stuff—all the bits and bobs, the lash extensions, the nails—you’re not going to give that up,” he concedes. “But what this whole new direction suggests to me is simplicity and modernity. And that is incredibly glamorous.”

For m

odel Ir

is S

trubegger, it

really s

tarte

d w

ith t

he h

air

cut.

A s

taple

of

the s

prin

g r

unw

ays a

nd t

he late

st

fashio

n

magazin

es, Str

ubegger’s

in-d

em

and s

tatu

s c

an b

e t

raced

back t

o t

he d

ay s

he let

hair

maestr

o D

idie

r M

alige s

nip

off

her long locks a

nd b

uzz t

he s

ides, le

avin

g just

enough h

air

on t

op t

o f

ashio

n a

pom

padour o

r a

boyis

h s

ide p

art.

It w

as w

ith t

he s

licked-d

ow

n s

tyle

—com

plim

ente

d b

y

scarle

t lips a

nd p

iled-o

n C

hanel—

that

Str

ubegger g

raced

the c

over o

f French V

og

ue last

March. Shot

by M

ert

Ala

s a

nd

Marcus P

iggott

, th

e A

ustr

ian-b

red s

tunner h

as o

ne h

and

in h

er p

ocket

and a

cla

ssic

tw

eed jacket

throw

n o

ver h

er

should

er. S

he a

ppears p

ow

erfu

l and s

exy-t

ough, androgy-

nous in a

n e

arly

-Nin

eti

es w

ay. (In f

act,

Ala

s a

nd P

iggott

’s im

-

age w

as a

n h

om

age t

o a

Ste

ven M

eis

el It

alian V

og

ue c

over

from

1992, w

hic

h f

eatu

red a

noth

er g

ender-b

endin

g b

eauty

,

Kris

ten M

cM

enam

y.)

“I w

as v

ery n

ervous,”

recalls S

trubegger o

f preppin

g f

or

the s

hoot.

“M

y a

gency t

old

me [

my h

air

] w

as n

ot

goin

g t

o b

e

cut

short-

short-

short,

but,

for m

e, it

was q

uit

e s

hort.” D

ays

late

r, t

hough, she w

as in love. H

avin

g a

uniq

ue “

look” b

oost-

ed h

er c

onfi

dence, she s

ays, and, soon, her c

areer. (“It

’s s

ort

of

funky, but

it c

an a

lso b

e v

ery e

legant,” s

he s

ays o

f her c

ut.

“It

’s v

ery v

ersati

le, but

it is f

or s

ure v

ery a

ndrogynous.”

)

“N

ow

, people

see m

e a

s a

specia

l characte

r t

hat

they c

an

work w

ith,”

Str

ubegger a

dds. “[P

eople

] needed s

om

eth

ing

new

. I m

ean, th

ere’s

so m

any g

irls

wit

h long, blo

nde h

air

.…

Som

eti

mes it’

s a

lso g

ood t

o h

ave s

om

e n

ew

inspir

ati

on a

nd

new

ideas.”

If S

trubegger s

ounds c

lued in t

o f

ashio

n’s

ebbs a

nd fl

ow

s,

it’s

because s

he is. Scoute

d in 2

002 w

hile w

orkin

g a

s a

n

au p

air

in N

ew

York, a t

hen–18-y

ear-o

ld S

trubegger e

njo

yed

som

e s

uccess, in

clu

din

g w

alk

ing in a

sprin

g C

alv

in K

lein

show

. B

ut

she a

bandoned t

he b

usin

ess a

fter a

year, r

etu

rn-

ing t

o h

er n

ati

ve S

alz

burg, A

ustr

ia, to

enroll in u

niv

ersit

y.

“B

y t

he e

nd o

f th

e y

ear, I d

idn’t

lik

e [

modeling]

so m

uch,”

she e

xpla

ins. “P

eople

treat

you lik

e a

product.

It

really u

p-

sets

me, th

at

they f

orget

that

is a

hum

an b

ein

g b

ehin

d t

he

gir

l,” S

trubegger late

r s

ays o

f th

e industr

y’s

dark s

ide.

How

ever, a

fter f

our y

ears o

f stu

dyin

g d

igit

al m

edia

,

marketi

ng a

nd p

roducti

on (and w

rit

ing a

thesis

on m

obile

marketi

ng), s

he d

ecid

ed t

o g

ive m

odeling a

second c

hance.

To s

ay S

trubegger h

as b

een b

usy e

ver s

ince w

ould

be

an e

norm

ous u

ndersta

tem

ent.

She w

alk

ed in 5

6 s

how

s f

or

sprin

g 2

010, openin

g M

arc J

acobs, D

olc

e &

Gabbana a

nd

Lanvin

and c

losin

g R

odarte

, Is

aac M

izrahi and B

ott

ega V

en-

eta

, am

ong o

thers. “E

veryth

ing t

hat

happened last

year is,

like, really c

razy,”

she s

ays. “I really e

njo

y [

modeling]

now

.”

In a

ddit

ion t

o f

all c

am

paig

ns f

or V

ale

nti

no a

nd G

ivenchy,

the 2

5-y

ear-o

ld h

as a

ppeared o

n t

he c

overs o

f Vo

gu

e’s

Japanese a

nd S

panis

h e

dit

ions t

his

year, in e

dit

oria

ls in

such e

dgy m

agazin

es a

s L

ove

, V a

nd H

ercu

les, as w

ell a

s in

French, It

alian a

nd A

meric

an V

og

ue

. O

f her b

old

and o

ften-

tim

es a

ndrogynous look in t

hese im

ages, th

e s

oft

-spoken

Str

ubegger s

ays: “I like t

he lit

tle [

bit

] of

role

pla

y, to

be

more, m

aybe, th

e t

ough g

irl or t

he g

uy. O

r s

om

eti

mes t

o just

be a

wom

an, very f

em

inin

e a

nd e

legant.

I lik

e t

hat.”

—

NIC

K A

XE

LRO

D

IRIS

IN

BLO

OM

“Through tough times, women are asserting their strength by

ditching pretty pastels and girly hair,” says makeup artist

Linda Cantello. “Wearing red lips and having short hair is the

new cool, a badge of confidence in unsettling times.”


44 WWD BEAUTY BIZ


Jack

et a

nd b

ustie

r by

St

ella

McC

artn

ey.

MA

KEU

P BY

Osv

aldo

Sa

lvat

ierr

a at

St

reet

ers;

HA

IR B

Y

Kev

in R

yan

for

R

Sess

ion

Tool

s;

STY

LIST

: Pol

ina

Ara

nova

at

Stre

eter

s;

MA

NIC

UR

E BY

Dea

na

Bla

ckw

ell u

sing

Zo

ya fo

r A

rtis

ts b

y N

ext;

PRO

DU

CED

BY

Vi

ewfi n

ders

; DIG

ITA

L TE

CH

NIC

IAN

: Der

ek

Nel

son;

LIG

HTI

NG

TE

CH

NIC

IAN

: Nic

k H

aney

; DIG

ITA

L A

ND

LI

GH

TIN

G: B

2Pro

; R

ETO

UC

HER

S: T

he

Shoe

mak

ers

Elve

s.


46 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

In other words: new day, new rules, new consumer zeitgeist. The recession has ushered us into the post–demographic age, one in which the similarities and nuances between Baby Boomers, Gen-Xers and Millennials are as important to identify as their differences. Not surprisingly, defi ning the consumer—and her changing needs—has never been more critical. But there’s an asterisk: She is harder to defi ne than ever. All those Excel sheet columns and rows—the ones that divide people by age, income, race and geography—are fading.

Labeling people based on criteria that used to be considered concrete feels outdated. Demographics, in effect, have become dinosaurs. Regardless of our statistical facts, we are all becoming smarter shoppers, we’re all trying to spend less and we all want to look as good as we can. “The differences that defi ned these demographics are increasingly less distinct,” says Wendy Liebmann, founder and chief executive offi cer of WSL Strategic Retail. “To a company, it can be limiting—almost dangerously so—to think in terms of demographics.”

Marketers have dubbed the emerging mentality the “era of the new conservative shopper.” It’s not a trend, experts believe, as much as a fundamental and long-lasting shift in consumers’ attitudes. “It’s a whole new way of

BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ERIN PETSON

After being rocked by

the worst recession in

a decade, the beauty

industry is entering a

new era, one in which

the consumer is all

powerful and looking

for change.

all it beauty’s new world order.After being rocked by

unprecedented waves of radical change over the last 18 months, a new consumer has emerged, one whose spirit is as altered as her circumstances and one for whom the same old, same old holds absolutely no allure.

For the fi rst time in a decade, beauty marketers are being compelled to rewrite the rules. A new road map for the future is surfacing, one with a notable shift in the balance of power. As we emerge from the fi scal wreckage of the past two years, companies aren’t the ones dictating price points and brand positioning. Now it’s the other way around. The consumer is setting a new standard—one that embraces social media, environmental savvy and a global approach that reassesses the very defi nition of beauty.

“We’ve had to reimagine the business model,” says Claudia Poccia, global president of Avon’s Mark division. “The customer has to come fi rst. That will never change—but how we listen to her and communicate with her, that is changing.”

BB1002.046-51.ChangeOfFace.a;16.indd 46BB1002.046-51.ChangeOfFace.a;16.indd 46 2/4/10 5:16:14 PM2/4/10 5:16:14 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 47


48 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

shopping,” says John Debutato, senior vice president of client solutions at Information Resources Inc., which tracks trends in the marketplace. “If you learn how to be comfortable with fi ve products, are you going to buy 10 once the economy bounces back?” He, like many, believes the answer is no.

Over the last year, women have redefi ned what is a beauty necessity and what is expendable. “The fi rst fat to get trimmed was fragrance, color cosmetics and salon services,” says Liebmann. “When 10 of your friends just got laid off, those are the things that feel like unnecessary luxuries. Of course, people cut back on their skin care, as well, but not nearly as much.”

This means that marketers are stuck between analyzing the differences in our demographics and deciding how much weight to give those differences. Welcome to the era in which 20-year-olds buy antiaging cream and compete with fi ftysomething “cougars” for a mate. Add to that the great tide of immigration sweeping the planet and borderless issues like global warming, and age and socioeconomic delineations become virtually moot.

“The growing Hispanic population, the confl uence of cultures, the unprecedented longevity of Baby Boomers all mean that demographics are getting blurred,” says Joe Arcuri, vice president of Procter & Gamble Beauty North America. Minorities were expected to constitute half the population of the U.S. by 2050, but that date was just moved up to 2042.

“We are fi nding that Caucasian young people are checking off the ‘other’ box on applications,” says Melissa Lavigne, managing director at the Intelligence Group. “People don’t want to be typed anymore. Look at the President,” she continues. “He’s the poster child for diversity.”

all retouched photographs to be labeled as such—not unlike the warning labels that are mandatory on cigarette and alcohol ads. And in the U.S., designer Ralph Lauren became embroiled in a public relations nightmare when size 4 model Filippa Hamilton claimed she was fi red for being “too fat,” just as the brand was running images of Hamilton Photoshopped to unrealistic Barbie-esque proportions.

The desire for genuineness doesn’t stop at advertising. “As people consider their own health, they’re stopping to consider the health of the planet, as well,” says Marcia Kilgore, who founded and sold Bliss Spas and most recently launched a face and body line called Soap & Glory.

Of course, organics and naturals have had their own prominent shelf space for years, but now people are questioning the bottles themselves. “Excessive packaging is on its way to being shameful,” says Kilgore. “We used to ask ourselves, ‘Is it good for the customer?’ Now we ask, ‘Is it good for the earth? What will 17,000 of these look like in a landfi ll?’ ”

According to the experts, it’s only a matter of time before companies have to answer these questions. It’s not unlike animal testing 10 years ago: Consumers became educated, demanded cruelty-free products and most of the major players acquiesced.

“There is an enormous amount of waste created by cosmetics packaging, but there are real hurdles to overcome,” says Kilgore. “How do we get around the gloss varnish on the cardboard? And where do the chemicals go when you pour them down the drain? I’m afraid to fi nish that thought.”

Moreover, green-washing, or trying to make a product seem more eco-friendly than it actually is, is increasingly diffi cult as consumers become more knowledgeable. “Environmentally sound products are not a trend, they are a major shift in the marketplace and one that speaks to the new sophistication of the consumer,” says P&G’s Arcuri. “We’ve passed the point where a product just has to work. Now we have to ask ourselves, ‘Is it good for the environment? Does it play a positive role in the community?’ As marketers, we need to give people an extra reason to buy a product—it has to have a social cause behind it.”

Again, it’s a post-demographic issue. The Millennial generation is biologically wired to jump on the cause bandwagon, Gen-Xers grew up with global warming as the biggest threat to their security and Baby Boomers rank the environment as a critical issue. “Baby Boomers buy more hybrids than any other group,” says Brent Bouchez, co-founder of Agency Five 0. “There’s a sense that we bought the SUVs, we did the damage, and we now have grandchildren—we have to fi x this mess.”

To some extent, the recession itself spurred the movement toward taking responsibility forward. “It became a new way to excuse yourself from purchase,” says Lesley Jane Seymour, editor in chief of More magazine. “If you don’t want to buy something, you’re not being cheap, you’re being concerned about excessive waste. The recession really shook people awake, and in this way, the environmental movement within the cosmetics industry is only going to get bigger.”

Already, brands in Europe and Japan have responded to this demand. Refi llable products are widely popular, particularly in the mass market, as are at-the-counter

48 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

w

W

v

“To a company, it can be

limiting—almost dangerously

so—to think in terms of

demographics,” says Wendy

Liebmann.

To wit: Back in 1993, the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art commissioned 120 mannequins carved with the likeness of supermodel Christy Turlington. Today, that thinking seems almost quaint. There simply doesn’t exist a universal ideal of beauty anymore—one would be hard pressed to narrow it down to an even dozen.

“When we did those mannequins, that was the standard of beauty,” says Ralph Pucci of Ralph Pucci International, the company that designed the Turlington mannequins. “Right now, we’re looking for faces with lots of character and interesting features, a well-traveled, exotic look. Our most recent collection was based on an Asian model, but we used features from many different women.”

In other words, the standard hasn’t shifted, it’s

multiplied. “There is no longer an ideal beauty,” says Mark’s Poccia. “People, especially young people, are taking pride in their diversity. There is something very antiquated about formulaic beauty.”

The new goal is looking like the most beautiful version of yourself. “Now it’s about looking healthy and feeling good in your skin,” says John Demsey, group president of the Estée Lauder Cos., who oversees the Lauder, MAC, La Mer, Tom Ford Beauty, Jo Malone and Bobbi Brown brands. “Women want to look radiant and that translates to having great skin.”

In fact, the desire for radiant skin has swelled so much it has upended the famous Lipstick Index—the moniker given to the resilience of color cosmetics

sales typical in an economic downturn. “During this recession, we saw foundation sales pick up,” says Demsey. “The Lipstick Index has been replaced by a Foundation Index. It’s not about a pop of color anymore, it’s about looking healthy.”

But saying we live in a post–Gisele Bündchen world and manifesting it are two different things. “The reason that the beauty industry feels stale is that it’s not refl ecting the fresh, new take we see everywhere else,” says Jonah Disend, ceo of Redscout. “Magazines have the same fi ve people on their covers over and over, but the rest of the world is moving on.”

Still, Disend notes, there are companies within the industry who are doing an excellent job of appealing to the new zeitgeist, citing P&G’s Cover Girl makeup brand as one such example. “We’ve shifted away from easy, breezy, brainless to substantive beauty,” he says. “The faces of Cover Girl are Rihanna, Ellen DeGeneres, Queen Latifah—they represent a deeper sense of accomplishment.”

They are also symbolic of a much more relatable approach to beauty. Whereas in the past, the move was toward an industrywide embrace of perfection—airbrush foundation, high-defi nition powder, fl awless-fi nish products—there is now a groundswell movement for authenticity.

Consider, for example, the swelling backlash against retouching beauty and fashion photographs. In Europe, efforts to ban airbrushing in fashion and beauty photography are gaining momentum. Spain is considering banning ads for certain beauty products and services before 10 p.m., while a group of academics banded together in Britain to petition the U.K.’s Committee of Advertising Practice to ban ads that feature digitally altered models in ads targeting girls under 16 years of age.

In France, a law has been proposed that would require

“Right now, we’re looking for

faces with lots of character

and interesting features, a

well-traveled, exotic look,” says

mannequin expert Ralph Pucci.


WWD BEAUTY BIZ 49

recycling programs. “This line of thinking was already well established in other countries before we came around to it,” says Carrie Mellage, consumer products practice director at Kline & Co.

To many, like the U.K.-based Kilgore, the day has already arrived. “We need to fi nd a way to be more creative and we can’t rely on superfl uous packaging to do it,” she says. “Unless big companies can really innovate and address global warming, people will look to small, niche brands that don’t have a lot of bells and whistles attached.”

In fact, they already are. “This segment of the market has grown at double-digit rates in the last fi ve years,”

says Mellage, citing the success of Burt’s Bees. “When Clorox paid close to a billion dollars for that company [in October, 2007], it signifi ed a major change in the marketplace.” Believes Mellage: Those small, niche brands aren’t going to be so small and so niche for long.

This presents a new head-scratcher for beauty marketers, who are used to a more-is-more marketing mentality. “There is such a proliferation of products that people are shutting down,” says Lavigne of the Intelligence Group. “They don’t have time to deal so they just stick to what they know.”

The goal for marketers isn’t just to separate yourself from the competition, it’s to “show people beauty isn’t a new product every 10 minutes,” says Liebmann.

“It’s incumbent upon us to break through the clutter,” agrees Lauder’s Demsey, noting the problem is particularly acute in the fragrance category. “The constant proliferation, the incessant newness, is one of the unhealthy aspects of the industry.”

Newness, in other words, feels old. You’ve heard of Slow Food? Think of this as Slow Beauty. “When a company promises that you can have skin that looks 10 years younger in two weeks, the next company has to promise skin that looks 10 years younger overnight,” says Agency Five O’s Bouchez. “This marketing is unsustainable.”

“We’re at the point where beauty has to slow down,” agrees Ann Clurman, executive vice president and futures consulting for The Futures Company, a market research fi rm in New York City. “It’s going to be less invasive, not more. And it’s going to be about nurturing yourself—

“There is such a proliferation

of products that people are

shutting down,” says Melissa

Lavigne. “They don’t have

time to deal so they just stick

to what they know.”

“We used to ask ourselves, ‘Is

it good for the customer?’ Now

we ask, ‘Is it good for the earth?

What will 17,000 of these look

like in a landfi ll?’” says industry

veteran Marcia Kilgore.

physical therapy for the skin.” Consequently, the notion of holistic beauty is

expected to gain an even more signifi cant presence in the marketplace, elbowing out more conventional products. “You’ll start to see labels that talk about what kinds of food you can eat to complement a product,” says Clurman. “Beauty and nutrition will continue to become more engaged. We’ve started down that path and nothing is steering us off it.”

In this new nurturing, uncluttered environment, there is less room for overly complex products—skin care in 10 steps, four eye shadows that create one look and so on. “I don’t think we’ve ever seen an era in which people were so interested in simplifying,” says Timothy Ressmeyer,


50 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

development departments, but their focuses may be shifting. “When we look back at some of the economic contractions of the past few decades, that’s when you see some of the most interesting creations in beauty,” says Lauder’s Demsey. “And we’re already seeing the changes in the industry that are going to get us through the downturn.”

This time around, however, the very nature of innovation has evolved. “Innovation is very misunderstood,” continues Demsey. “It can be a device, an ingredient, how something is sold, how it is experienced, how it is marketed and positioned, how it is packaged. It’s an oversimplifi cation to say that innovation is about features and benefi ts—we’re at a point where the communication strategy is often the most innovating thing about a product.”

Facebook. YouTube. Twitter. Blogs. All are now as instrumental when it comes to brand and product positioning as traditional mediums such as print and television. Like others, Lauder has fully embraced the new electronic landscape. MAC’s makeup artists tweeted from behind the scenes during New York Fashion Week, for example, garnering more than two million views during the

a partner in consulting and innovation at Information Resources Inc. “Shoppers are overwhelmed and asking themselves what they really need.

“Research has shown that the overwhelming approach doesn’t work,” continues Ressmeyer. “ ‘Buy one, get one’ or ‘This card entitles you…’ or ‘Comes with a free toner.’ Whatever marketers and store owners can do to streamline the process will translate into more customers.”

As the value proposition is being rethought, so, too, are a product’s actual ingredients. “Typically, it takes fi ve years to bounce back from a downturn,” says Kline’s Mellage. “In the early Nineties, body washes caught on and Avon

“You’ll start to see labels that

talk about what kinds of food

you can eat to complement

a product,” says Ann Clurman.

“Beauty and nutrition will

continue to become more

engaged.”

introduced AHAs—both were major drivers in getting us out of a slump. It will have to be innovation that pulls us out this time, too.”

That thought has many in the industry on their toes. “We have done so much in terms of what a product can do, I wonder if that kind of innovation has been maxed out,” says Kilgore. “Tell me a problem and we can fi x it—we’ve solved it all.

“We’ve actually changed the way skin cells behave,” continues Kilgore. “I’m in product development and I’m stumped. Innovation will start meaning something else.”

No one is about to lay off their research and

fall 2009 shows, while Estée Lauder’s Sensuous fragrance was able to have a successful launch despite a dismal 2008 for the fragrance category overall, thanks in large part to a strategy that included a signifi cant online component.

“The new approach is about leveraging social media and bringing our product forward in a way that connects with our audience,” says Poccia. “We brought forward new ways to interact with the product so the consumer can mix it up and personalize it.”

Which, like everything else, eventually leads to Facebook. According to Poccia, 83 percent of Generations X and Y socialize online, and of that, 74 percent shop online. “This is a place where they live, work, play and shop,” she says. “As marketers, it’s our job to deliver an immersive brand experience—tips, blogs, the ability to interface with experts.”

To that end, in January, Mark introduced one of the fi rst digital social selling applications on Facebook, a sales widget said to be a fi rst for the beauty industry, according to a Facebook executive.

Social media may have started out as the stomping ground for the Millennial generation, but it isn’t


WWD BEAUTY BIZ 51

staying that way. Says Bouchez: The Boomers are becoming more and more comfortable in a virtual world—specifi cally, using the social media network to research brands. “There is a power shift away from traditional methods of getting information,” says Arcuri. “Social networks have become the most trusted source of information. The challenge is controlling how your brand shows up, how it’s talked about.”

A challenge? Undoubtably. But executives are confi dent that, as this new era unfolds and the seismic changes fan out over the industry, the essential message remains the same. “I have a weird theory about beauty,” says Demsey. “I say, ‘Success sits in the room.’ At the end of the day, your brand has to make an emotional connection with the consumer. We know that works. That’s what always works.”

“The new approach is about

leveraging social media and

bringing our product forward

in a way that connects with

our audience,” says Avon’s

Claudia Poccia.

While marketing experts agree that the lines between the generations are

becoming ever more blurred, there are, of course, meaningful differences,

as well. Baby Boomers continue to be in the center of every marketer’s

sweet spot, due primarily to their sheer numbers. Over the next fi ve years,

the over-50 population will grow at six times the rate as the under-30

population. Ten thousand people turn 50 every day in America.

Put simply, the product that wows the Baby Boomers wins. “It’s about the

numbers,” says David Page, co-founder of Agency Five 0. “The wealthiest

group of people in the country will live longer than any group prior to them.

One way or another, they will get us out of the recession.”

That means not using a 22-year-old model to sell an antiaging cream.

“The biggest shift has been from the promise of looking younger to the

promise of looking your best,” says Page. “There’s a real misunderstanding

that women in their 50s want to look 30. Look at Jamie Lee Curtis letting

her hair go gray—even a few years ago, that was unthinkable.”

To a Baby Boomer, health and well-being are a necessity, not a trend.

“Boomers will invest time and money and energy in staying healthy longer,

and that dovetails with the message of ‘I can help you look and feel healthy

longer,’” says Timothy Ressmeyer of Information Resources Inc.

Despite the immense size and spending power of Baby Boomers (close

to $2 trillion annually), marketers are still struggling to fi nd their voice with

this group. “To a person over 50, those Viagra ads were the silliest things

in the world,” says Page, referring to ads that show stately, silver-haired

couples of a certain age gazing tenderly into each other’s eyes with not a

frisson of sexual tension between them. “They were clearly done by people

EYE ON THE AGES

who didn’t want to admit that their parents were having sex.”

Compared with the 80 million Boomers and 76 million Millennials,

Generation X—anyone born from 1965 to 1977—is a paltry 40 million.

“They have middle-child syndrome,” says Melissa Lavigne of the Intelligence

Group. “Generation X feels skipped over because we were never marketed to.”

That’s not necessarily a bad thing. This is also the age known as the

“Sweet Spot”—when dating anyone from 25 to 45 is acceptable and when

you’re most likely to have fi nancial freedom without the fi scal burden of a

family. “It’s the aspirational generation,” says Jonah Disend of Redscout.

“Their beauty and experience match.”

Generation Y, also called the Millennials, is defi ned as anyone born

from 1987 to 1995. “Millennials are coming of age in this recession,” says

Ressmeyer. “Just a few years ago, they were more impulsive, and now

they’re becoming very smart, very savvy shoppers.”

The recession has made them cautious and the expanse of media

has made them thorough. In the past, this age group was predictably

spontaneous. Now they fi nd a product that piques their interest, and they

“look it up online, read reviews, check the blogs, do their due diligence,”

says Ressmeyer. “This is the fi rst generation wired to use social networks

to make smart purchase decisions.”

As informed as they are, the young generation is still, well, young.

“They have a general attitude that whatever problems arise today will have

a cure when they age,” says Lavigne. “They know how to avoid skin cancer

better than anyone before them, but they also think they’ll be able to fi x

their sunspots with an iPhone app.” —D.P.


1 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

From daring redesigns of classic

products to individualistic beauties who

are redefi ning our notion of the ideal,

a bold new spirit is emerging in beauty.

Here, a breakdown of the traditional

versus the new iconoclastic.

TRADITIONAL: Cindy Crawford, the Chicago

native discovered at age 17, who parlayed

modeling superstardom into a multidimensional

brand experience.

ICONOCLASTIC: Karlie Kloss. Edgy, ethereal and

oh-so-in-demand, the 17-year-old Missouri-born

stunner is as known for her down-to-earth demeanor

as for her meteoric rise to supermodel status.

TRADITIONAL: The glorifi cation of skinny models. ICONOCLASTIC: Crystal Renn, size 12 and supercelebrated.

TRADITIONAL: WIDE-EYED, HEART-FACED BEAUTIES WITH DOLL-LIKE FEATURES, AS PERSONIFIED BY SASHA PIVOVAROVA.ICONOCLASTIC: BRUNETTE RANYA MORDANOVA, WHOSE DISTINCTIVE BOWL CUT HELPED HER LAND 40 SHOWS DURING THE SPRING 2010 SEASON.

ALL-AMERICAN BEAUTY

BODY OF WORK

TRADITIONAL: Jerry Hall, Seventies superstar.ICONOCLASTIC: Georgia May Jagger, the sexy, saucy offspring of Hall and rock god Mick Jagger.

BLONDEBOMBSHELLS

TRADITIONAL: The mascara wand, as introduced by makeup legend Max Factor.ICONOCLASTIC: The orb, as innovated by Givenchy and L’Oréal.

WANDS WORTH

FROM RUSSIA, WITH LOVE

MOR

DANO

VA P

HOTO

BY

GIOV

ANNI

GIA

NNON

I; PI

VOVA

ROVA

BY

ROBE

RT M

ITRA

; MOS

S BY

VAU

THEY

; CRA

WFO

RD B

Y CH

RIST

IAN

SIMON

PIET

RI/S

YGMA/

CORB

IS; K

LOSS

BY

ANTH

ONY

MAU

LE; R

ENN

BY LUI

S SA

NCHI

S/AR

T+CO

MMER

CE

HAMILTO

N, CHE

ERLE

ADER

PHO

TOS BY

BET

TMAN

N/CO

RBIS

; TAT

TOO MOD

EL B

Y KY

LE ERI

CKSE

N; SAI

LORS

BY FE

NNO JA

COBS

/COR

BIS;

ALEX

ANDE

R WAN

G BY

JOHN

AQU

INO; FAR

M GIR

L BY

AND

REW

HOLB

ROOK

E/CO

RBIS

; PRA

DA B

Y DA

VE Y

ODER

; MAR

C JA

COBS

, RAL

PH LAU

REN

BY R

OBER

T MIT

RA; M

ASCA

RA W

ANDS

, NAI

LS B

Y GE

ORGE

CHI

NSEE

; IPH

ONE,

VOGU

E BY

THO

MAS

IANN

ACCO

NE

BB1002.052-53.Chart.a;28.indd 1BB1002.052-53.Chart.a;28.indd 1 2/5/10 2:23:33 PM2/5/10 2:23:33 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 2

TRADITIONAL: FRESH-FACED, FIELD-RAISED INNOCENCE.ICONOCLASTIC: EDGY INGENUE, MILAN-STYLE, COMPLIMENTS

OF MIUCCIA PRADA.

TRADITIONAL: Girls relegated to the sidelines, cheering on the team.ICONOCLASTIC: Designer Alexander Wang’s chic football-inspired fashions. Rough, tough and ready for the fashion fray.

TRADITIONAL: Most suitable for sailors or trendy downtown hipsters.ICONOCLASTIC: Body art hits the runway, as with Rodarte’s fi erce body ornamentation.

TRADITIONAL: Barely there beauty. What hair and makeup?ICONOCLASTIC: Bold, theatrical looks. Isn’t all the world a stage?

TRADITIONAL: Doubles as a doorstop.ICONOCLASTIC: Fits in the palm of your hand.

DOWN ON THE FARM

SIZE CONVERSION

TATTOO YOU

FANG FRENZY CUTTING-EDGE CATWALK

FAN BASE

TRADITIONAL: GEORGE HAMILTON, STAR OF THE 1979 CLASSIC LOVE AT FIRST BITE. ICONOCLASTIC: TWILIGHT STAR ROBERT PATTINSON, LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT.

TRADITIONAL: Nail polish. ’Nuff said.ICONOCLASTIC: Minx Nail coverings in an endless array of patterns.

MODERN MANI

MOR

DANO

VA P

HOTO

BY

GIOV

ANNI

GIA

NNON

I; PI

VOVA

ROVA

BY

ROBE

RT M

ITRA

; MOS

S BY

VAU

THEY

; CRA

WFO

RD B

Y CH

RIST

IAN

SIMON

PIET

RI/S

YGMA/

CORB

IS; K

LOSS

BY

ANTH

ONY

MAU

LE; R

ENN

BY LUI

S SA

NCHI

S/AR

T+CO

MMER

CE

HAMILTO

N, CHE

ERLE

ADER

PHO

TOS BY

BET

TMAN

N/CO

RBIS

; TAT

TOO MOD

EL B

Y KY

LE ERI

CKSE

N; SAI

LORS

BY FE

NNO JA

COBS

/COR

BIS;

ALEX

ANDE

R WAN

G BY

JOHN

AQU

INO; FAR

M GIR

L BY

AND

REW

HOLB

ROOK

E/CO

RBIS

; PRA

DA B

Y DA

VE Y

ODER

; MAR

C JA

COBS

, RAL

PH LAU

REN

BY R

OBER

T MIT

RA; M

ASCA

RA W

ANDS

, NAI

LS B

Y GE

ORGE

CHI

NSEE

; IPH

ONE,

VOGU

E BY

THO

MAS

IANN

ACCO

NE

BB1002.052-53.Chart.a;28.indd 2BB1002.052-53.Chart.a;28.indd 2 2/5/10 2:23:58 PM2/5/10 2:23:58 PM

54 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Such quantifiable evaluation marks a high-tech di-vergence from the more tried-and-true focus group feedback and pen-and-paper questionnaires that brands traditionally use to assess products and suss out a global blockbuster.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is among the companies venturing into the sophisticated realm of emotional testing. For its Christian Dior brand’s DiorShow Extase mascara—LVMH’s first marketed beauty product backed by biometric studies, out last December—the firm’s labs tracked variables such as pupil dilation (since an extreme dilation is observed for pleasant stimuli while an extreme contraction can indicate a negative reaction) and eye movement (to determine the point of gaze).

In this way, Dior sampled the emotions of people looking at women wearing Extase versus those with ei-ther no mascara or other brands of mascara. The women with Extase on were deemed more seductive, attractive and refined than others, according to Hervé Cantin, Dior’s makeup formulation laboratory manager.

“Attention is more centered on the eye when you have the mascara on,” says Rodolphe Korichi, research and development project manager at LVMH Recherche, the research center for the company’s fragrance and cos-metics brands. He says that’s an indication of the per-ception of a higher level of facial attractiveness.

Korichi says people focus on individual facial features while processing a face’s attractiveness and that there’s a hierarchy of facial components involved—namely, the eyes (in fi rst place), followed by the mouth, hair and nose.

BY JENNIFER WEIL

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PLAMEN PETKOV

Focus groups are so

2000. The latest market

research techniques use

biometrics, including

neuromarketing, to

gauge how consumers

will respond to a new

beauty proposition.

man’s heart begins thumping wildly and his palms get sweaty.

Could he be falling in love? Not in the traditional sense. Rather, the guy in question is re-acting emotionally to the lipstick a woman wears, and his response is being measured by a technician standing by to track and record his every palpitation.

Welcome to the brave new world of market testing, where beauty brands are using biometrics, including neuromarketing, to gauge how consumers react emo-tionally to their products and advertising concepts.

Biometrics is defined as the science and technology of measuring and statistically analyzing biological data. Testing techniques include assessing changes in pupil variations, facial expressions, the galvanic skin response and salivary cortisol levels. These are becoming increas-ingly accessible for marketers.

Neuromarketing—using neuroscientific tests—is more cutting edge and much more expensive. It charts which parts of the brain respond to a particular stimulus or stimuli using techniques such as elec-troencephalography (EEG) and functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI).

“Measuring emotional response to products and/or media is a really interesting evolution in primary re-search,” says Jeremi Karnell, co-founder of One to One Interactive, a full-service digital marketing firm based in Boston.

BB1002.054-57.BIO.a;23.indd 54BB1002.054-57.BIO.a;23.indd 54 2/5/10 2:33:07 PM2/5/10 2:33:07 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 55


In another study, LVMH labs tracked where women’s and men’s eyes move on a woman’s face with and with-out makeup.

“We are able to evaluate which zones are very im-portant for the interpretation of beauty, which zones are more specifically related to men and women in the perception and judgment of beauty, and to establish eye movement patterns according to the effect of makeup,” says Korichi.

LVMH also studied emotional responses of women when viewing their own faces (made up and au naturel) in a mirror. “When they looked at their faces without makeup, women expressed some negative emotions,” says Korichi.

L’Oréal has been using biometric studies for product development, as well. For instance, it has tested men’s responses to women wearing mascara. “What catches the eye of men is length and volume [of lashes],” says Patricia Pineau, L’Oréal’s R&D communication direc-tor, who adds the advertising for L’Oréal Paris’ Extra-Volume Collagen mascara makes reference to the fact that a woman wearing the product can “captivate with 12x more impact, instantly!”

Ads for Lancôme’s Hydra Zen, meantime, touted the skin care cream’s “calming” effect, which was gauged by analyzing data using an fMRI. L’Oréal has also used

Other tests conducted by the French beauty giant include measuring the heart rates of women wearing makeup or not in stressful situations. In such a study, a makeup-wearing woman’s heart rate is generally lower, so she is considered to feel confident and have high self-esteem. On the flip side, an elevated heart rate is linked with anxiety.

Anxiety—or the lack thereof—also came into play at Chanel, where a lie detector test was used to exam-ine whether the application of the Hydramax Plus mask really “de-stresses” people, says Marie-Hélène Lair, the company’s scientific spokeswoman. Chanel measured the sweat rates of people’s palms before and after us-ing the mask, and in both instances, Chanel raised their stress levels by bombarding them with difficult math-ematical questions.

“Even after a lot of [math questions], we were able to assess that after the application of the mois-ture mask, it is possible to decrease levels of stress,” says Lair.

Testing a person’s emotional responses to media is becoming increasingly common, as well.

Innerscope Research, of Boston, measures and ana-lyzes unconscious emotional responses to media, among other visual stimuli, to help companies develop every-thing from ads to magazine covers, online retailing and electronic products. Innerscope uses a high-tech wear-able vest with built-in sensor technology it calls “gar-ment-based sensor array,” which is portable and scalable. The first time such vests were used was to track peoples’ unconscious emotional response to movie trailers in Ja-pan for Twentieth Century Fox Film Corp.

“They give half a million data points,” says Carl Marci, Innerscope’s chief executive offi cer and chief scientist, who adds it is possible to collect from 20 to 30 people tens of millions of data points as they measure media. “Now, we routinely test rough cuts [of fi lms],” says Marci. “We’ve also migrated into print and interactive.”

It’s only a matter of time before such tests become more common in beauty and fashion. “We have done some pilot studies on fragrance and are beginning conversations with some retailers about using this technology to have customers come in and evaluate the next season’s fashions, before they come out,” says Marci.

One to One Interactive’s primary focus has been on digital media, but its analysis may be applied to tradi-tional media, too, says Karnell. Data is calculated by the company’s patent-pending algorithm, called Quantemo Engagement Index, a single measure of user engage-ment that helps provide a quantitative measure to how media emotionally impacts a user.

One to One Interactive’s methods are used for creative concept testing, usability testing, prototype testing, com-petitive benchmarking and advertising effectiveness.

An upside to this type of research is it reduces the cognitive bias that exists in traditional research meth-ods. Instead, it focuses on the immediate pre-cognitive emotional reaction and neurological attention an indi-vidual pays to stimuli as he or she visually perceives it.

Feedback from traditional market testing, in con-trast, “is retrospective, since you can only ask someone

56 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

L’Oréal has tested men’s

responses to women wearing

mascara. “What catches

the eye of men is length and

volume,” says Patricia Pineau.

fMRIs to see how applying a cream changes volunteers’ brain responses. “The click of a lipstick tube or even the shape of packaging can impact your feeling of some-thing,” says Pineau, who adds the touch can have an effect, too.

By examining pheromones, L’Oréal has been study-ing the emotions someone feels while looking at some-thing beautiful. “If you take the same fragrance and give the perfume’s bottle another color, the result is not the same,” she says.


WWD BEAUTY BIZ 57

[questions] after they have had the experience you want them to judge,” says Brett Mensh, a neuroscientist at Columbia University and author of the neuromarketing blog NeuroCrunch.com, noting that such methods may also lead to inaccurate responses. “Sometimes people say what they think you want to hear,” he says.

“Studies in cognitive psychology relate that, in or-der to obtain genuine responses from human subjects, you need to properly devise a questionnaire to avoid the introduction of errors. In other words, you have to de-vise or use a series of tricks in order for the answers to be genuine and spontaneous,” adds Massimo Tistarelli, professor in the computer vision laboratory of the Uni-versity of Sassari and director of the summer school of biometrics in Alghero, Italy.

Biometric techniques have the advantage of measur-ing involuntary responses—like heart rate—in real time. “There’s no way of cheating,” says Tistarelli. “When an-alyzing a short reaction time, within a few milliseconds after the perception of a stimulus, your expressions and emotional states are not filtered by cognitive processes in your brain. It’s rather a reactive behavior triggered by your true emotion.”

Another plus is that commonly used biometric trials can be employed on a large scale and are not wildly expensive. (Costs can run from $20,000 to $30,000 for a typical survey to $50,000 to $100,000, according to Karnell.)

Neuroscientific tests, through which it’s possible to pick up which part of the brain responds to a particular stimulus or stimuli, hold tremendous potential, but are also a much more expensive proposition.

Data from EEG and fMRI today can give market-ers certain information, but so far it ’s not entirely un-derstood what increased activity in various parts of the brain means, exactly. “We still have a lot to learn about the brain,” says Marci.

Neuroscientific trials impose some other hurdles. They are still largely conducted in hospitals, require dif-ficult data analysis and are noisy. Their cost (which isn’t expected to decrease in the near future) can be around $500 to $2,000 per test subject. The bulky machinery

“This provides a cognitive cue of felt emotion that allows us additional perspective to the unconscious physiological and neurological responses we see during our research,” says Karnell.

Most people know of biometric techniques such as fingerprinting that are used in some airports and banks, among other locales, for identification purposes. But it can get quite James Bondish. The U.S. Homeland Secu-rity department has a program whose objective is to look for terrorists in certain airports, for example.

“What they do is look for specific biological signals to identify [agitated] emotional states,” says Tistarelli, who explains such symptoms may include biological indicators such as shortness of breath or inordinate sweating.

Meanwhile, sensors are evolving. Today, for exam-ple, testers can collect bio- and neurofeedback utilizing semidry sensors that are easily applied to the body and wirelessly transmitted to computers in office settings.

“The future is faster, cheaper, smaller and less inva-sive,” says Marci.

Nanochips designed by the Illinois Institute of Tech-nology in Chicago to study athletes’ metabolism, tem-perature and sweat rates, among other variables, are also considered to have interesting applications in the beauty world, as well.

L’Oréal has created a prototype of a “haptic finger” device that’s able to measure the smoothness of skin with and without a cream. For its part, LVMH is working on a 3-D imaging system and eye tracking in real time.

“Affective computing,” where a computer is given the ability to recognize and express emotions, and therefore is able to respond intelligently to human emotion, is also in development.

“Images of the customer’s face can be processed by the computer to determine the emotional state [when exposed to beauty products or advertisements],” says Tistarelli. “Analyzing the facial image of a customer look-ing at a beauty product, we may discern whether he or she is enjoying the product, by expressing an ‘interest,’ ‘amusement’ or ‘pleasure’ expression; not interested at all, by detecting an ‘annoyance,’ ‘boredom,’ ‘aversion’ or even ‘disgust’ expression, or not sure about it, by detecting a ‘confusion,’ ‘interrogative’ or ‘helpless’ expression.”

It is possible that, with all the technological advanc-es, testing how consumers feel while using a particular beauty product will be more prevalent, as will a broader understanding of their emotional responses to the view-ing of it being worn by someone else. “One domain that will benefi t from the latest advances is packaging percep-tion,” says Pineau, who notes L’Oréal has teamed with a Scandinavian university to research the subject further.

For the future, the sky is the limit. Karnell notes that biometric testing may soon be conducted in the com-fort of one’s own home, with consumers wearing spe-cial headbands or wristbands. “Digital video cameras, computer monitors and/or TVs may one day be able to include the same eye-tracking data that today is embed-ded in special computer monitors,” he says. And if that thought isn’t enough to make a marketer’s heart beat with excitement, what is?

“The future is faster, cheaper,

smaller and less invasive,”

says Carl Marci of Innerscope.

“There’s no way of cheating,”

says Massimo Tistarelli. “When

analyzing a short reaction

time, your expressions and

emotional states are not

fi ltered by cognitive processes

in your brain.”

involved takes people out of real-world environments, thereby possibly skewing results, and there’s still a lack of critical mass of data from neuroscientific trials.

“It’s rare to see studies that go beyond 20 to 30 people, so you are generally using a very limited sample,” says Karnell. “To that end, the findings sometimes require the necessary qualitative caveats that are directional but not statistically significant. Additionally, the industry is still rather new and lacks really any type of gold stan-dard. Although I’m confident that will be resolved in the very near future.”

Neuromarketing is a recent phenomenon. Read Mon-tague, a professor in the department of neuroscience at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston, is widely cred-ited with conducting the first such significant study in 2003 and published his findings in the October 2004 issue of Neuron.

More recently, market research companies have also been entering the space. EmSense, for one, was founded in 2004 by technologists from Hewlett-Packard R&D labs and Massachusetts Institute of Technology, while Nielsen made a strategic investment in NeuroFocus in February 2008.

These days, many believe the most powerful formula to get rich test results is a combination of approaches such as biofeedback, neurofeedback, social motor track-ing technology and good old Q&As. “It’s very impor-tant to have an opinion,” says Korichi, adding combin-ing different approaches is key.

“We do talk to people, and it’s important to have a com-bination of conscious and unconscious studies,” says Marci.

Wide-reaching results from biometric testing can have many applications. “What is really important is to see cultural differences,” says L’Oréal’s Pineau, echoing the belief of many. After all, the goal of most beauty brands is to conceive a global hit.

Chanel’s Lair says it ’s crucial to make sure what the company sells suits all of its consumers’ needs. “We have to fine-tune every day the sensuality and texture of our products,” she says, noting such elements are vital to

what sets a luxury product apart from others.To help skirt the cultural divide, OTOinsights, One

to One Interactive’s user experience research division, has implemented PrEmo, a cross-cultural emotion in-strument developed at Delft University of Technology. Instead of words, PrEmo uses animated characters to convey different emotions. It is utilized as the self-re-port mechanism deployed with the firm’s bio- and neu-rofeedback data collection.


58 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

work in conjunction with [Lancôme] and have a say in how I look and how I present myself on their behalf. That made a huge impact for me in making my decision [to sign on]. WHAT ARE YOUR DUTIES AT THE

BRAND?

I think I have to stand up straighter and wash my face more. It’s kind of like every girl’s dream, really. To be 42 and have three kids and be a working mom, it’s a great moment to be asked to do this and to be able to do it. It says a lot about Lancôme and what they stand for.WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR

FAVORITE THINGS ABOUT

WORKING FOR LANCÔME?

I get all these things to play with and test and give my opinion about. And it’s quite exciting without having to invest all of myself in how I look because they did come to me as me, which is a pretty casual mom. But you know, it’s nice to up your game a little bit.

WHAT’S YOUR RED-CARPET

BEAUTY STRATEGY?

It happens sort of on the spot. I work with people that I’ve worked with for years. So it’s a team, and you have a sense of one another and what works and you just kind of put it all together.HOW HAS YOUR BEAUTY REGIMEN

CHANGED SINCE HAVING KIDS?

I am at a point now that my kids are old enough that I actually can leave them alone for the 15 minutes it takes to wash my face and put on some moisturizer.YOU TOOK YOUR CHILDREN TO

THE FILMING OF EAT, PRAY, LOVE.WERE THEY EXCITED ABOUT

BEING ON A MOVIE SET?

[The actors are] just a group of people to them. They really don’t put it all together—what we’re doing or what it results in. They don’t know I’m an actor. My oldest kids are fi ve, and so I think they just think I hang out with interesting people.HOW HAS THE MOVIE INDUSTRY

EVOLVED SINCE YOU STARTED IN

YOUR CAREER?

Things aren’t allowed to take their time, to blossom and to happen the way they used to.WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OF

YOUR VANTAGE POINT IN LIFE

TODAY?

The nice thing about getting older is it forces you in a way to take a greater interest in your [beauty] regime. And so it’s a good moment for me to join forces with people who can help me.

HOW DO YOU DEFINE BEAUTY?

I think it continually redefi nes itself on a kind of daily basis. To see a person who is present in their joy is the most beautiful thing. I think that’s why our

children are all so luminescent—they just exist in the moment of joy.

WERE YOU INTERESTED

IN BEAUTY WHILE

GROWING UP?

In that way that it’s, like, once removed from you.

You look at great beauties like Audrey Hepburn or

Bette Davis. Makeup is such a part of that generation of beautiful women. You know, so in that fantastical way. WHAT DREW YOU

TO LANCÔME?

For me, they represent the pinnacle. I think of Isabella Rossellini.

When I was a girl, they just seemed so elegant, exotic and amazing. I felt I would

Julia Roberts is a true multitasking maven.

Her latest role is as Lancôme’s global

ambassador. In late January—ever wide-

smiled and bright-eyed—she jetted off to

Paris hours after appearing at the Golden

Globes to host a dinner marking her

first public appearance for the brand.

Not only has she recently shot a print

and TV campaign with Mario Testino

for Lancôme’s Définicils Precious

Cells Mascara, breaking in March, but

she has multiple movie projects in

the works, too. Roberts acted in

Valentine’s Day, being released

on February 12, and stars in

Eat, Pray, Love, set for an

August release. On the

fund-raising front, she’s

involved with Hope

for Haiti. Here, Roberts

takes time out to dish about

beauty, Lancôme and life, during a chat

punctuated by her signature raucous laughter.

BY JENNIFER WEIL

ALL-STAR AMBASSADOR

LAST CALL

J

H

a

Not

EA

f

i

fo

“IT’S KIND OF LIKE EVERY

GIRL’S DREAM, REALLY.

TO BE 42 AND HAVE

THREE KIDS AND BE A

WORKING MOM, IT’S A

GREAT MOMENT TO BE

ASKED TO DO THIS.”

ROBE

RTS

AT T

HE G

LOBE

S PH

OTO

BY R

OB R

AMIR

EZ/RE

TNA

LTD;

AT

LANC

ÔME

BY E

MAN

UELE

SCO

RCEL

LETT

I

01

02 01 Julia Roberts radiant at the Golden Globes on January 17. 02 And equally as chic in Paris two days later.

BB1002.058.LC.JULIA.c;21.indd 58BB1002.058.LC.JULIA.c;21.indd 58 2/4/10 2:46:26 PM2/4/10 2:46:26 PM

Beauty’s New Age Has Begun

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson.

In Print & Online: March 12 Close: February 22

The new

PH

OT

O B

Y:

AN

TH

ON

Y M

AU

LE

Larger trim size | Expanded distribution to key segments | Super-infl uential consumer reach

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Go backstage with her at www.maybellinelovesfashion.com

NEW YORK CITY

FEBRUARY 11-18, 2010

BEAUTY'S NEW AGE - WWD

Documents

Transcript of BEAUTY'S NEW AGE - WWD