3571.pdf - Creativity Awards
-
Upload
khangminh22 -
Category
Documents
-
view
3 -
download
0
Transcript of 3571.pdf - Creativity Awards
IN AN ERA OF THE DIGITAL AND INSTANT, IDENTIKIT CATWALK IMAGES FLOOD ONTO BEDROOM LAPTOP SCREENS SECONDS AFTER THEY OCCUR ON THE RUNWAY IN PARIS OR TOKYO. HOWEVER, WE SHOULD HEED WHAT COCO CHANEL FAMOUSLY ARGUED: THAT FASHION IS NOT JUST IN THE CLOTHES THAT WE WEAR, BUT “IN THE SKY AND ON THE STREETS”...IT HAS TO DO “WITH IDEAS, THE WAY WE LIVE, WHAT IS HAPPENING.”
Communicator, cultural power and urban tribal signifier - fashion means much more than “just clothes”. From traditional costumes to avant-garde ready-to-wear, the underlying message is often about identity, both
personal and communal, expressed through the creativity of cloth.
In an era where big luxury labels find home on all street corners of Hong Kong, often pushing out smaller labels and local retailers, we should
remember that fashion is not just about big brands. The biggest re-occurring trends in fashion like ‘punk’, ‘rocker’, ‘boho’ or ‘minimal’ were more often than not borne from music movements and brave new ideas.
Just look at music festivals like Woodstock and Glastonbury - how important they were in inspiring a certain look or style that has lasted decades. Importantly, new ideas in fashion have nearly always been the territory of the young, and often the anti-establishment. These young creatives, with their innate hunger for finding beautiful solutions to design problems can be a true driving force in the local industry.
Local young designers have an important role to play, as do the media and consumers in supporting them. Eager, hungry and passionately creative, they could become tomorrow’s tastemakers - if they can walk a road of success. This success won’t just be commercial; it will depend on a balance of innate talent, hard work, dedication and creative integrity - a precarious and rare magic mix. This balance is particularly poignant in Hong Kong, as our local design scene matures and young designers develop stronger, more confident messages with each year.
Having judged this YDC contest twice in the past, it’s clear that nature and nurture both play big roles in
foreword foreword
the equation of a promising young designer - and their future success. There has to be strong skill and vision, that a person might be born with, and a dedication to learning what they yet don’t know.
The final expression might cumulate in a genius way of draping silks, layering organza or structuring a jacket that renders the wearer more powerful. Then there is the skill of creating a beautiful, emotive and unique grand narrative - something that the late Alexander McQueen triumphed at.
So many designers say their designs “tell a story” or “solve a problem”- and yes, these expressions have become somewhat cliché. But if a design can do this well, and the solution and story are riveting - then you are more than half way there. Add in a focused individual style, a visual and structural elegance to your clothing and this is when the turn of a collar can change a look, the knife edge pleat on a white shirt can structure a body and a gown can render someone breathless.
Jing ZhangFashion Editor South China Morning Post
page
tw
opage three
Overall Winner PrizeCash Prize of HK$35,000
A one-month internship in Paris to work with world renowned fashion designer Véronique Leroy
Contemporary Day-wear Group WinnerCash Prize of HK$20,000
A Sponsorship of HK$30,000 for visiting fashion fair overseas, sponsored by YGM Trading Ltd
Party & Evening-wear Group WinnerCash Prize of HK$20,000
Scholarship for a Young Designer’s Course at the Saga International Design Centre in Denmark including airfare
and boarding (sponsored by Saga Furs of Scandinavia)
prizes judging panel
Chief JudgeThe Hon Ms Shirley Chan, JP
Chairman of HKTDC Garment Advisory Committee
VIP JudgeMs Véronique Leroy
International Fashion Designer
Judge MembersMr Gaku Mizoguchi
Executive Officer for New Business Planning Group, Parco Co Ltd
Ms Dee PoonChief Executive Officer of China Retail, Esquel Enterprises Ltd
Ms Edith CheungDirector of Textile Division, Jin Ze Arts Centre
Ms Johanna Ho Creative Director, Johanna Ho
Mr KK YipDirector of Creative & Business Development, D-mop Ltd
page fivepage
four
Chief JudgeThe Hon Ms Shirley Chan, JP
Ms. Shirley Chan, Chief Executive Officer of YGM Trading Limited and the Director of Yangtzekiang Garment Limited, has extensive experience of management in the garment and textile field, especially in the branding development and retail business.
Ms. Chan has been actively involved in various public services of government departments and business associations, currently as the Council Member of HKTDC, the Chairman of Garment Advisory Committee of HKTDC, the Committee Member of the Hong Kong-France Business Partnership of HKTDC, the Chairman of the Hong Kong Brand Development Council, the Member of the Textiles Advisory Board of HKSAR,
the Member of the Major Sports Events Committee of HKSAR, the Director of the Hong Kong Tourism Board & the Member of QTS Committee, the 1st Vice President of The Chinese Manufacturers’ Association of Hong Kong, the Committee Member of the Government of HKSAR – Programme Management Committee of the BUD Fund, the Committee Member of the Tianjin Municipal Committee of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative, the Vice President of the Guangdong Association of Enterprises with Foreign Investment and the Member of Tthe Council of City University of Hong Kong.
VIP JudgeMs Véronique Leroy
Véronique Leroy was born in Liège, Belgium. In 1984, she moved to Paris. In 1987, she graduated from the Studio Bercot school of fashion. From 1987 to 1989 she was an assistant stylist at Azzedine Alaïa. Alongside her work at the Azzedine studio, she spent her spare-time creating a collection which would win her the Helena Raviist prize in 1989 and secure her place as laureate of the Canette d’Or in Brussels. In the same year, she started working for Martine Sitbon as assistant stylist. She continued her personal projects and won the prix Courtelle, in 1990, the year that Thierry Mugler was president of the jury.
It was then that Véronique decided to start up a business in her own name. She launched her first collection in 1991 during Paris fashion week (prêt à porter).
She quickly established international fame with the press and with prestigious buyers.
Twice, in 1991 and 1994, she was laureate of la bourse de l’Andam du Ministère de la Culture. Three times, during the launches of the Autumn/Winter 1993/1994, Spring/Summer 1995 and Autumn/Winter 1996/1997 collections, she was awarded the prize “futur grand” for new talent in the Vénus de la Mode category.
Constant attention to detail, material and proportions are the hallmarks of her unique work.
Véronique Leroy opened her first shop in October 2005, at 10 rue d’Alger in the 1st arrondissement in Paris.
In September 2005, she launched a new swimwear collection for Spring 2006.
She has been consultant stylist for Maison Léonard during 8 years until October 2011 for the Spring/Summer 2012 collection. She is currently the main consultant stylist for the brand Mus.
judges of the contest judges of the contest
I am happy to see the increasing numbers of young people dedicated their passion in creative industry. They are young, full of energy and unlimited creativity, always think out of the box. But real-life experience plays an essential role to young designers, so HKTDC Hong Kong Young Designer’s Contest is an excellent platform for all young designers to extend their ability on stage.”
SHIRLEY CHAN
“Creativity comes from the pleasure of starting from scratch and reaching your goal. It is a translation of what you originally had in mind and the process which leads to its materialisation.
From a young designer, I expect to see spontaneity. The new generation should have a fresh outlook on the fashion design trade. Young designers should never be afraid to dare and should dream of doing it.
I picked up this image as it sums up best what I had been trying to express for many years through my designs at that time to sublimate the ordinary.”
VÉRONIQUE LEROY
“Hong Kong, being a fashion hub, the local designers are nurtured with blended cultures from East and West. Besides travelling to all parts of the world for inspiration, they can grasp most updated information and keep an eye on latest fashion trend via the internet.
page
six
page seven
Ms Dee PoonDee Poon is the CEO of China Retail at Esquel Group. Known for its environmental and technological innovations and its ethical business practices, Esquel is a leading textile and apparel manufacturer with operations around the world. Under Dee’s stewardship, PYE has been featured in the International Herald Tribune / New York Times, China Daily, GQ China, the South China Morning Post, and other leading publications. With a goal of transforming the marketing of shirts and re-conceiving of the Chinese dream and aspiration, PYE is as much a cultural projection of a future as it is a retail and fashion company.
Before coming to Esquel, Dee founded dysemevas, a pop-up concept telling the stories of today’s China through the work of Chinese designers, and participated in or founded various non-profit/ philanthropic, creative, and entrepreneurial enterprises. Dee was an Editor-at-Large for iLook Magazine as well as a featured columnist for Modern Weekly, and her short film “An Exercise in Futility” was shown at the Cannes Film Festival in 2009 as part of “ONEDREAMRUSH.” Dee graduated from Harvard College in 2004 with a BA in philosophy. Dee was named by Forbes Magazine as on their “Women to Watch” in 2013.
Mr Gaku MizoguchiJoined PARCO in 1988 which is well known as one of the most popular shopping complexes in Japan, Mr. Mizoguchi has gained an abundance of experience in fashion, art and culture . During 2008-2010, he played an active role as store manager of Shibuya PARCO, which is the most important branch store of PARCO built in 1973. He was then promoted as a general manager of Store Planning Group. Now he makes great effort to discover and develop new business opportunities not only in Japan but in the world as an Executive Officer for New Business Planning Group.
Established in 1953, PARCO’s business is involved in four categories, Shopping Complex Business which operates its commercial facilities as a core business of PARCO Group, Retail Business which operates distinctive specialty shops, Space Engineering and Management Business which conducts interior design, decorating and electrical work, and manages buildings, and Other Business.
The company name, PARCO, is the Italian word for “park.” Like a park, each PARCO location is a space where people come together to share time and space, where they can relax and have fun. Its corporate mission is to create parks: futuristic, innovative spaces that brim with hospitality, provide an enjoyable experience for customers visiting its stores, and help its tenants prosper.
Ms Edith Cheung A fashion designer by profession, Edith combines her knowledge in the industry with her own discovered niche interests, providing unique designs and solutions for clients. She reinvents herself constantly: starting from a fashion career in New York, then a decade of work in film costume, then to arts and craft research, textile art therapy work, and writing on textile and clothing subjects for the media .
As the Director of the Textile Division, Jinze Arts Centre in Shanghai, she manages the collection of over 5,000 pieces of Chinese textiles and costumes, and plan the programmes and events. She is also textile consultant to the HULU10, a Hong Kong label/shop exploring Chinese Contempory clothing.
judges of the contest judges of the contest
“I hope young designers are not afraid of changes; they will accomplish something with a strong mind and learn that ‘the world is big; we have a long history, and everything leads to the present.’”
GAKU MIZOGUCHI
2
1
1 Walnut.Early morning, you hear the sound of walnuts falling from the tree, in the garden of an old house in Beijing. Nature is so complicated and unexpected, the texture, form, colours, what we try to imitate in our creations.
2 Rusted paintAfter a rainy summer, the black paint on the door has eroded and falling apart. You can read from the texture the cycle of rain and sun, wet and dry, chemical and physical changes. Better than anything I can draw…….
EDITH CHEUNG
“I like seeing solutions – whether it is a solution for a problem in terms of fit, or a solution to a complex creative idea, I enjoy the moment where the designer has had a breakthrough in their work.”
DEE POON
page
eig
htpage nine
Ms Johanna Ho Johanna Ho graduated from Central Saint Martins in London with both Undergraduate and Masters Degrees in 1997. Her graduation show was highlighted by the then London Times Fashion Editor Iain R. Webb as one of the top new talents of the year.
Soon after graduation, Johanna launched her own label. Her first ready-to-wear collection was shown at London Fashion Week and bought by Barneys NY. Subsequent collections were sold to around 30 retailers internationally including Via Bus Stop, Isetan, Takashimaya & Seibu in Japan, Browns & Harrods in London, Myer in Australia and Lane Crawford, Liger, Cocktail & Ztampz in Hong Kong.
On a more glamorous note, Johanna has been involved in concert costume design projects for Karen Mok and Eason Chan, and is currently designing/ styling the wardrobe for major Asian artists such as Eason Chan, Faye Wong, Miriam Yeung and Josie Ho. Internationally renowned singer-songwriter Lana Del Rey is also a fan of Johanna’s design.
Mr KK Yip KK Yip, renowned fashion consultant in Hong Kong, his career path can be tracked back to the 1980’s. Devoted to fashion, KK went abroad to study fashion styling in the UK in the mid 1980’s. Long before the Internet came into existence, technology was not readily accessible back then, knowledge of the outside world was limited. Hence, KK’s mission was to bring back the exciting fashion happenings and the most fashion forward styles to Hong Kong.
After finishing his studies in the UK, he returned to Hong Kong. In 1988, KK as a founder of D-mop opened the first store in Hong Kong.
With over 20 years of experience in the fashion industry, KK is currently working as a creative director. He assists D-mop in all fashion creative aspects, from fashion styling to merchandising mix. KK says: “Being in the fashion industry for over 20 years, I still feel like a beginner, I still feel very fresh. I am eager to explore unique, cutting-edge designs, advocating creative and quality collection, bringing in the best yet new exciting international brands to Hong Kong, keeping the city tightly connected to international fashion trends, as seen in D-mop and J01”. He continues: “I believe fashion is lifestyle, a way of life that not only goes beyond mere consumption and the outward show but truly epitomizes the latest cultural scenes at large, namely art, music, clubbing,design ect. “
judges of the contest about ydc
THE HONG KONG YOUNG FASHION DESIGNERS’ CONTEST (YDC) WAS ESTABLISHED TO CULTIVATE AND PROMOTE A NEW GENERATION OF FASHION DESIGN PROFESSIONALS FOR THE LOCAL GARMENT AND FASHION INDUSTRIES. AS HONG KONG EVOLVES INTO A HUB FOR DESIGN AND BRANDED LABELS, THE ROLE OF YDC IN IDENTIFYING NEW TALENT AND PROVIDING INSPIRATION IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN EVER. BESIDES DISSEMINATING DESIGN SOLUTIONS, THE CONTEST IS ALSO BECOMING A PLATFORM FOR NEW TALENT TO START INFLUENCING CULTURAL TRENDS, A FORUM TO FOSTER INSPIRATION AND A PLACE WHERE DESIGNERS CAN EXPRESS THEIR CREATIVITY.
“Creativity is the backbone of our lives.It is not only restricted to the artistic world.Without creativity, we would be living in the past. Creativity leads us into the future.”
JOHANNA HO
Young designers should never be afraid of things that are beyond their expertise. From sourcing to manufacturing, only if the designer is familiar with every step of making a garment, they can come up with a good design. Also, they should not be afraid of trying new things. They should always break through the boundary and come up with new ideas.
KK YIP
page
ten
page eleven
show sequence show sequence
Kwan Mei Mui, Sherman
fingerprint in nature
journey walker
artifical error (is more fun)
2
Yim Tung Yan, Ellis
Leung Chun Ting, Nelson
Law Dong Yi, Doris
peace armour
over mature
every inhalation,
every invasion.
Chan Hau Kei, Kay
Ho Kwan Shing, Kurt
Sung Chloe Mak Wing Fung, Max
Wong Tsz Yan, Yannes
gold fish tank
spring
aesthetic bamboo
onion life
a world of ice and snow
fluoroscopy x-ray
Lee Mei Ting, Vivien
sakamoto chiyo
Lee Ka Kwan, Louis
Cheung Yee Lam, Eliz Choi Wing Nam, Tracy
Chan Chun Kit, Matthew
simple is complicated?
nowhere women: nowhere fashion
Wong Suet Ying, Shirley Cheng Wai Tung, Sakura
mysterious land
page
tw
elve
page thirteen
fashion designer of sunrich traders ltdtel - 6082 8125 email - [email protected] sponsor - kast ltd
Design students are bound to make mistakes when
learning to make patterns. Sherman Kwan turned
human error into a new design direct ion. When
sewn together, patterns that have gone awry create
attract ive distor t ions. Using a mix of heavy and
l ight fabrics, the designer fur ther exaggerated
the distor t ions. Her chal lenge was to put them
together in a way that worked. The result ing
col lect ion surprised even the designer.
artificial error (is more fun)
KWAN MEI MUI, SHERMAN
page seventeenpage
six
teen
YIM TUNG YAN, ELLIS
freelance designertel - 6226 5338 email - [email protected]
Suminagashi is an ancient Japanese technique of
ink marbl ing in water. Each pattern is as unique
as a f ingerprint . In this col lect ion, the designer
has transferred the ef fect from water to fabric , a
painstaking task. I t takes many attempts to get the
desired pattern and fur ther test ing to reproduce the
patterns on a f i rm polyester fabric . The overal l mood
for the col lect ion is Japanese.
fingerprint in naturepa
ge e
ight
een
DORIS LAW
Simple
KAY CHAN
Feel hopeless before hope comes true.
Think something impossible before
making it possible.
CHLOE SUNG
I’m a very emotional person. I can
smile at this moment and then cry
in next for no reasons.MATTHEW CHAN
I use different forms of materials
and geometric patterns to create my
designs. I will try almost every colour
with blue as the major tone.
MAX MAK
Silhouettes, detail and unisex
SAKURA CHENG
My style is vague , subtle at
the same time uninhibited.
TRACY CHOI
Feminine, symmetric, fluid
SHIRLEY WONG
vintage, earthy fashion, casual
VIVIEN LEE
High fashion with simple silhouette
YANNES WONG
Mystery , simple and dark
interview with finalists interview with finalistspa
ge t
wen
typage tw
enty-one
DORIS LAW
I just look around to get inspired, there’s no specific muse.
KAY CHAN
Not specific, anyone can be
YANNES WONG
Alexander Wang
TRACY CHOI
Everything can inspire me, somebody in the street, the
weather, the seasons, the light. I love to observe. Ugly
things and beautiful things inspire me equally.
MAX MAK
Um………….Internet
SAKURA CHAN
Sheena Ringo is my design muse. She has a unique aesthetic sense.
Sensitive and dedicated, she sees corruption behind beauty. I am fond of her
songs which lyrics describe the real life.
CHLOE SUNG
When I start to design I create 2 characters in my mind (Evil goddess and
kind devil) they are muses.
MATTHEW CHAN
My design muse is Nicolas Ghesquière
interview with finalists interview with finalistspa
ge t
wen
ty-t
wo page tw
enty-three
NELSON LEUNG
Hong Kong is a tiny little box for me. If you wanna think
out of the box, then you should leave Hong Kong
for a while.
VIVIEN LEE
A place where various materials can be easily found.
KAY CHAN
Being a designer who can also speak Chinglish.
ELLIS YIM
For me, Hong Kong is my root, my home. It is freedom
and lots of inspirations for design.
TRACY CHOI
Hong Kong is my hometown. For me growing up in such
unique place let me have an open mind and a
multifunctional brain.
MAX MAK
This city hatches freaks.
SHIRLEY WONG
Fusion of Chinese and western cultures, east meets west
MATTHEW CHAN
To me, the art and design development in Hong Kong
is quite disappointing. It doesn’t have a bright future
but darkness.
interview with finalists interview with finalistspa
ge t
wen
ty-f
our page tw
enty-five
LEUNG CHUN TING, NELSON
fashion designer of sunrise grouptel - 6389 8357 email - [email protected]
sponsor - sunrise group (1988) ltd, yat fai digital products co ltd, golden success corporation Ltd, 創豐電腦機繡有限公司
The designer has taken elements from vintage video
games and turned them into a fun and colourful
col lect ion. For men’s wear, the designer feels special
attention must be paid to detai l and material ,
which is why he used such high-end material as
wool and cashmere. Embroidery, 3D model l ing
and pr ints are also used to create this r ich and
enter taining col lect ion.
journey walkerpage tw
enty-sevenpage
tw
enty
-six
CHAN CHUN KIT, MATTHEW
fashion designer of mischievoustel - 6224 1992 email - [email protected] sponsor - butcher lab
Matthew Chan sees a connection between Hong Kong’s
Wah Fu Estate and structural ism in ar t . Structural ist
paint ings reduce everything to rectangles and squares,
whi le in the publ ic housing estate, most things come
in rectangular shapes for pract ical purposes. The
inter locking staircases, mosaics and patterned wal ls
are the motif for these colourful col lages, which exude
optimism and warmth. The s i lhouettes are angular,
but there is st i l l substantial volume in the outf i ts .
simple is complicated?pa
ge t
hirt
y
WONG SUET YING, SHIRLEY
fashion designer of television broadcasts ltdtel - 9616 7828 email - [email protected]
Inspired by the Beatles song “Nowhere Man”, Shir ley
Wong has created a col lect ion that celebrates free
spir i ts . Old guitars played by street ar t ists and other
musical instruments are a dominant design motif,
which is presented in knott ing. The use of such natural
materials as wool and leather, as wel l as an ear thy
palette, add a sense of nature and wanderlust .
nowhere fashionpage thirty-three
contemporary day-wear
The Great Smog of London in 1952 was the inspirat ion for this col lect ion. In low vis ibi l i ty, people don’t look wel l put-together. To capture this mood, the designer created relaxed s i lhouettes and worked with misty colours of green and blue. The raincoat , a staple for rainy London weather, was made in semi-transparent
PU leather.
page thirty-fivepage
thi
rty-
four
LAW DONG YI, DORIS
assistant designer of a big company ltdtel - 6120 0531 email - [email protected]
sponsors - pioneer embroidery factory, a big company limited
every inhalation, every invasion.page thirty-seven
DORIS LAW
When I started to request for wearing something I want.
NELSON LEUNG
I think I found myself into fashion design since I was 3 years old. I remember
that I sat in front of my mum’s desk, holding a pencil and designing some
outfit for my mum.
YANNES WONG
Secondary School
ELLIS YIM
I found myself into fashion deisgn since I was in primary school. I watched
some TV shows about fashion design.
VIVIEN LEE
I found that I have a unique sense of fashion
SHERMAN KWAN
Since the day I was asked for as a helper to finish a fashion collection when
I was in high school. Before that, I didn’t know there is a subject called
fashion design.
TRACY CHOI
As a child, I had this fantasy of being a designer and so I studied at Hong
Kong Design Institute and now in the Polytechnic University. I am in love
with the process of creating adventurous and beautiful clothing.
interview with finalists interview with finalistspa
ge t
hirt
y-ei
ght page thirty-nine
FINALISTQ&A
NELSON LEUNG
I will hold a big party, drink beers and wine with my family and friends, to
witness the moment at the end of world.
KAY CHAN
Plan the schedule of “tomorrow”
DORIS LAW
Do something I don’t have to care.
YANNES WONG
Inviting all my family members and friends to have a party
MAX MAK
Waiting in peace
VIVIEN LEE
I would wear all my favourite accessories out or wear my favourite pajamas
in MTR
TRACY CHOI
Probably making clothes. Because the best is yet to come.
LOUIS LEE
I would still like to be a designer. Because alI I got is a DREAM for FASHION.
MATTHEW CHAN
I will have breakfast with my family. Lunch with my best friends. Dinner with
my lover.
interview with finalists interview with finalistspa
ge fo
rty
page forty-one
CHAN HAU KEI, KAY
fashion designer of shima seiki (hk) ltdtel: 6234 4487 email: [email protected] sponsor: long tai hong (holding) ltd
This armour is def initely not a weapon of war but rather
a means to boost ing the wearer ’s self-esteem. Kay’s
peace armour col lect ion uses ref lect ive materials
that are sof t and l ight . The ref lect iveness is achieved
by laminating PU leather, which is then laser-cut into
i rregular patterns and knitted together in a way that
f lows. Flows peaceful ly.
peace armourpage forty-three
HO KWAN SHING, KURT
student of the hong kong polytechnic university, bachelor of arts in fashion & textiles design year 3tel - 9386 1843 email - [email protected] sponsors: dah hwa leather & trading co ltd, yenrabi ltd
Nature’s imperfect ions become a new aesthetic in Kur t
Ho’s col lect ion. Forms that are distor ted or surplus
to requirements have beauty in themselves. The
designer has experimented with text i le , roughing up
fabrics such as wool and cashmere, as wel l as leather
and organza, the latter two offer ing str ik ing contrasts
when brought together.
over maturepage forty-fivepa
ge fo
rty-
four
SUNG CHLOE
assistant designer of walter ma ltdtel: 6330 9699 email: [email protected] sponsor: kk textile ltd
Inspired by a documentary about glaciers, this
col lect ion is br imming with detai ls that resemble
glacial forms and shapes of ice. The outf i ts comprise
numerous individual fabric constructed as i f bui lding
a model . Layers of semi-transparent organza in white
and hues of blue produce the i l lusion of ice and
texture. Wool and tweeds are also used to give the
evening-wear col lect ion an extra dimension. The wool
and woven fabrics are pieced together using needle
punching technique to give i t a gradation ef fect .
a world of ice and snowpa
ge fo
rty-
eigh
t
LEE MEI TING, VIVIEN
freelancertel - 9523 9533 email - [email protected] sponsor - co-wear international ltd
The designer’s col lect ion, “Spring”, is predominantly
green, with sprinkles of gold. S i lk sat in is a c lassic
high-fashion fabric that is a lso elegant and completely
natural . The dramatic ruff les are given their shape
by using horsehair in the hems. The designer had to
experiment with the ruff les so that their volume would
not overwhelm the overal l look.
springparty & evening wearpa
ge fi
fty-
two
page fifty-three
party & evening-wear
Using bamboo as the pr imary design motif, the outf i ts are made from straw with voluminous shapes that resemble rattan baskets. Bamboo is of ten used as internal suppor t for Western gowns, but this t ime i t takes centre stage. The chal lenge was to produce str ik ing forms from very s imple and
natural material .
page fifty-five
CHEUNG YEE LAM, ELIZ
student of the hong kong polytechnic university, bachelor of arts in fashion & textiles design year 1tel: 6335 1435 email: [email protected] sponsor: splendid fashion
aesthetic bamboopa
ge fi
fty-
six
page fifty-seven
party & evening-wear
A subway stat ion that was once a church provides the inspirat ion for this col lect ion, which celebrates the coming together of the old and modern. The designer has taken such intr icate architectural e lements as glass windows and turned them into crochet. Fitt ing for an evening-wear col lect ion, the al l -black outf i ts in s i lk organza emphasise smar t f i tt ing
and craf tsmanship.
page fifty-nine
assistant fashion designer of kj international ltdtel: 6405 9378 email: [email protected]
sponsors: dear bell handmade accessories, novetex textiles ltd, anita’s textiles ltd
party & evening-wear
WONG TSZ YAN,YANNES
page
six
typage sixty-one
NOWHERE FASHION
FINALISTQ&A
KAY CHAN
A good design may only need
one second to inspire. There
is no point waiting. Keep
moving on and try more so
that you can get more.
DORIS LAW
a restless mind
YANNES WONG
be myself
VIVIEN LEE
To bring fashion to people
without fashion sense
SHIRLEY WONG
be true and be yourself, and
always believe that you can
do it
SHERMAN KWAN
The truth of being a designer is you must have a
friend called dummy. And you will be surprised when
you are friend with your dummy.
MATTHEW CHAN
To be a designer is to know about yourself,
what you want to do, and you don’t have to
make the whole world love your works.
interview with finalists interview with finalists
TRACY CHOI
Designer is a dressmaker.
You have to satisfy all your
clients’ wants.
page
six
ty-t
wo
page sixty-three
MATTHEW CHAN
own a clothing brand with my buddies. I focus on design;
my buddies help me to deal with other stuffs.
KURT HO
I dreamt about people I’ve never met
quite often and I do remember their
faces, most of the time. Sometimes
in reality I meet again these familiar
strangers. That fascinates me.
KAY CHAN
Infinite and timeless space
YANNES WONG
Having my own fashion show
for my collection
ELIZ CHEUNG
Be a designer, I hope to
build up my own brand and
present my design on the
catwalk.
TRACY CHOI
my family
interview with finalists interview with finalistspa
ge s
ixty
-fou
r page sixty-five
CHENG WAI TUNG, SAKURA
student of the hong kong polytechnic university, bachelor of arts in fashion & textiles design year 1tel - 5137 8096 email - [email protected] sponsor: a¬uence (china) ltd
gold-fish tankpa
ge s
ixty
-six
page sixty-seven
party & evening-wear
Photographer Ninagawa Mika’s over-pol ished, unreal ist ic images are the inspirat ion for this col lect ion. The designer plays with var ious forms of goldf ish, one of the photographer’s favourite subjects. Mult iple layers of s i lk organza are used to repl icate the f lowing movements of the swimming f ish. There is no wir ing to help shape the dresses, which are put together l ike col lages. As an extension of the f ish theme, the last outf i t includes trousers, referencing
the mermaid who became human.
page sixty-nine
MAK WING FUNG, MAX
Merchandising Designer of O® the Wall Companytel: 6595 2220 email: [email protected]
sponsors: . alternatif, chen dao, edmond kok, ligal company, newtech sublimation ltd, o® the wall company
fluoroscopy x-raypa
ge s
even
ty
party & evening-wear
X-ray images of insects are the pr inciple design motif for this col lect ion. Butterf ly, dragonfly and c icada pr ints , as wel l as 3D shapes, are employed. The k imono is a lso referenced. The designer uses unconventional evening-wear fabric such as polyester, which al lows for double-sided pr int ing and holds the shapes better. The goal is to make these dist inct ive shapes an integral par t of the outf i t rather than
s imply add-ons.
page
sev
enty
-tw
opage seventy-three
1
2
4
3
6
5
interview with finalists interview with finalists
VIVIEN LEECHLOE SUNGSAKURA CHENGELIZ CHENG YANNES WONG DORIS LAW
1
2
3
4
5
6
page
sev
enty
-fou
r page seventy-five
7
8
9
10
11
12
KURT HOMAX MAKLOUIS LEESHIRLEY WONGSHERMAN KWAN MATTHEW CHAN
7
8
9
10
11
12
page seventy-seven
LEE KA KWAN, LOUIS
student of the hong kong polytechnic university, bachelor of arts in fashion & textiles design year 3tel - 9665 6298 email - [email protected] sponsor - fine technology development ltd
sakamoto chiyopage seventy-nine
party & evening-wear
The col lect ion takes i ts inspirat ion from a scene in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha. The outf i ts are romantic and somewhat unf inished. Such high-street fabric as neoprene, mesh and PVC are used, but the amount of handiwork required is dist inct ively high fashion, as the designer spent considerable t ime weaving the fabric . The col lect ion serves as a reminder that
tradit ion should be treasured.
page eighty-onepage
eig
hty
student of the hong kong polytechnic university, bachelor of arts in fashion & textiles design year 3tel: 6188 7412 email: [email protected] sponsor: yenrabi ltd
The col lect ion is about a gir l growing up. The self is
buried under layers of memories. Beads in intr icate
patterns adorn the s i lk organza and polyester fabric .
The br ight colours represent youthful opt imism,
whi le 3D model l ing is employed to give the dresses
dist inct shapes.
onion life
CHOI WING NAM, TRACY
page
eig
hty-
two
page eighty-three
KWAN MEI MUI, SHERMAN YIM TUNG YAN, ELLISLEUNG CHUN TING, NELSONCHAN CHUN KIT, MATTHEWWONG SUET YING, SHIRLEY LAW DONG YI, DORIS CHAN HAU KEI, KAY HO KWAN SHING, KURT
16
18
26
30
32
34
42
44
48
52
54
58
66
70
78
82
SUNG CHLOE LEE MEI TING, VIVIEN CHEUNG YEE LAM, ELIZWONG TSZ YAN, YANNESCHENG WAI TUNG, SAKURAMAK WING FUNG, MAXLEE KA KWAN, LOUIS CHOI WING NAM, TRACY
page 16
page 32
page 34
page42
page 44
page 18
page 26
page 30 page 48
page 52
page 54
page 58
page 82
page 78
page 66
page 70
page
eig
hty-
four
page eighty-five
ELIZABETH LINEVA CHENGWAL KONGMIM MAK
THESE YOUNG CREATIVES, WITH THEIR INNATE HUNGER FOR FINDING BEAUTIFUL SOLUTIONS TO DESIGN PROBLEMS CAN BE A TRUE DRIVING FORCE IN THE LOCAL INDUSTRY… THEY COULD BECOME TOMORROW’S TASTEMAKERS
page 87
YDC 2013 Overal l Winner El izabeth col lect ion, “Time
Machine”, is an extension of her winning col lect ion
last year. The pieces ref lect chi ldl ike innocence and
the designer’s own chi ldhood memories of Hong
Kong. Pr ints drawn by the designer and her niece are
featured. The s i lhouette is abstract and propor t ions
inspired by chi ldren’s wear.
Since winning YDC 2013, E l izabeth has focused on
her label , E l izabeth & Jacquel ine, which is now being
carr ied by select shops in Tokyo and London.
ELIZABETH LINTIME MACHINE
ydc 2013 overall winner
ELIZABETH & JACQUELINEemail - [email protected] http://elizabethandjacqueline.com
page eighty-nine
Eva began with the idea that the clothes that one prizes
most are of ten associated with a special memory. Eva’s
col lect ion is an extension of her graduate col lect ion,
which dealt with the theme of sustainabi l i ty. The
c lothing on show this evening is geometric and three-
dimensional , with detachable accessories.
The Overal l Winner of YDC 2011, Eva won an internship
at Rue du Mai l , in Paris , under the tutelage of Mar t ine
Sitbon. She then took postgraduate studies at the
London Col lege of Fashion.
EVA CHENGSUSTAINABILITY
ydc 2011 overall winner
email - [email protected]
page
nin
ety
The designer’s col lect ion, “Butterf l ies and Flowers, a
Love Story”, is a romantic col lect ion featuring pr ints
and feathers. Wal designs his own pr ints , a fusion of
East and West, from the blue-and-white combinations
inspired by Chinese porcelain, to the essential ly
Western orange-red juxtaposit ions. The col lect ion
is a cross between ready-to-wear and evening wear,
with geometric blocking to give the outf i ts a more
contemporary feel .
Wal was the Overal l Winner of YDC 2007.
WAL KONGBUTTERFLIES AND FLOWERS,
A LOVE STORY
ydc 2007 overall winner
email - [email protected]
page
nin
ety-
two
Hong Kong’s crowded environment inf luenced Mim
col lect ion, which she cal ls “Comfor t Zone”. In a
packed space l ike the MTR, doing something as
s imple as reaching for your pocket can be a chal lenge.
The designer tackled this issue by re-arranging
the pockets of her creat ions. With 3D-cutt ing, this
funct ional col lect ion is very structured and blurs the
l ine between ready-to-wear and evening wear.
As the Overal l Winner of YDC 2012, Mim won an
internship at AtsuroTayama in Tokyo. Japanese
professional ism has made a great impression on
her, and the experience is helping to shape her
label “HANG”.
MIM MAKCOMFORT ZONE
ydc 2012 overall winner
HANGemail: [email protected] http://www.hanggggggg.com
page ninety-five
香港青年時裝 設計家創作表演賽
在這個數碼年代,什麼都講求同步,不論是在巴黎或日本
舉行時裝秀,一模一樣的照片都能在瞬間抵達所有人的睡
房電腦上。但可可 · 香奈兒說過的話至今仍是至理名言:
「時裝不在於我們身上的衣服,而是在街頭或者天空...時
裝是意念,是生活,也是四周正在發生的事。」
時裝是非常有力的溝通工具和文化力量,在都市森林中我
們就靠時裝將屬於自己「部族」的人分辨出來。時裝不只
是衣服,不論是民族服裝或當代前衛的品牌,所表達的其
實都是一個身份。個人或社群的身份總是透過服裝的創意
呈現。
這個年頭的香港不論是大街或窄巷,放眼望去都有大型奢
侈品牌進駐,小型品牌或本地零售商被逼遷離,但其實時
裝不只屬於大品牌。在時裝史中,不停回歸的潮流例如朋
克、搖滾、波希米亞與嬉皮士風,都是從音樂運動或是劃
時代的新意念中延伸過來。
你看看胡士拓及格拉斯頓伯裡音樂節,他們往往能掀起某
種衣著風格,經歷數十年而不滅。更重要的是時裝界的新
概念很多時都來自年輕、反建制的一代。年輕的創作人擁
有天生的好奇心,任何設計問題放在他們手上,他們都可
以找到美麗而出人意表的解決方法,他們是本地時裝業不
能缺少的驅動力量。
香港的年輕設計師在推動本地時裝發展方面扮演著重要角
色,然而傳媒與消費者亦有責任支持他們。懷著熱誠而且
創意滿溢,他們可能是明天的品味塑造師,只要他們能走
上成功的道路。所說的成功不只是商業方面,而是天賦才
華、努力投入與創意多方面之間微妙的配合,這有點像魔
法般神秘,要達到這樣的平衡很不容易。但在香港我們有
能力找到這種奇妙的平衡,因為每一年我們都看到本土設
計發展越趨成熟,來自年輕設計師的訊息亦越來越有力和
充滿自信。
過去兩次出任YDC評判,明顯地看到先天的我才華與後天
培養,在塑造一個年輕時裝設計師方面有著很大影響,甚
至對於他們未來的成功也扮演著關鍵性的角色。天生的技
能和對事物的看法,必須配合後天的努力學習。
最終這一切都可能展現在他們的作品上,可以是以立體剪
裁處理層疊的透明薄紗或構建一件穿上令人感覺剛強的夾
克。此外就是編織故事的技巧,可否從作品中說出一個美
麗動人而且瑰麗的故事。已故的Alexander McQueen就
是箇中能手。
許多設計師都強調他們的設計在「說故事」或「解決問題」
,這些都有點陳腔濫調。但是如果一個設計能真的做好這
一點,而且做得吸引人的話,那麼你就成功了一半。另外
的一半就是擁有明顯的個人風格,以及在視覺和結構上能
做到優雅。能有這樣的功力的設計師,可以用一個衣領打
造一個新形象,用白襯衫的褶邊構建身體,或是製作一套
令人目眩得透不過氣來的晚禮服。
章婧
南華早報時裝編輯
序言
全場總冠軍
獎金港幣三萬五千元
於著名時裝設計師 VÉRONIQUE LEROY 巴黎工作室實習
一個月
時尚日服組冠軍
獎金港幣二萬元
由YGM貿易有限公司贊助總值港幣三萬元獎金,前往海外
參觀時裝展
派對服及晚禮服組冠軍
獎金港幣二萬元
由北歐世家皮草贊助獎學金到丹麥北歐世家設計中心學習
一星期的皮草課程連機票及食宿
獎項及獎品
「 香 港 青 年 時 裝 設 計 家 創 作 表 演 賽 」 創 立 時 目 的 為 培 育 及
鼓 勵 本 地 時 裝 設 計 精 英 , 為 本 地 時 裝 業 界 發 掘 新 一 代 設 計
力 量 。 隨 著 香 港 成 為 設 計 和 品 牌 之 都 , Y D C 在 發 掘 人 材 和
提 供 創 意 靈 感 上 所 擔 當 的 角 色 更 為 重 要 。 這 個 平 台 再 不 止
於 提 供 設 計 的 方 案 , 卻 更 成 為 凝 聚 文 化 力 量 的 平 台 , 吸 引
更多渴望創作和渴望表達創意的人。
今 屆 大 會 專 誠 邀 請 了 來 自 巴 黎 著 名 時 裝 設 計 師 Vé r o n i q u e
L e r o y 遠 赴 來 港 擔 任 嘉 賓 評 判 , 連 同 由 本 地 著 名 時 裝 設 計
師、時裝界專業人士及來自日本的Parco Co Ltd代表組成
的評判團,將以最專業的眼光選出得獎作品。
簡介
translationstranslations
評判團
首 席 評 判陳淑玲太平紳士香港貿易發展局成衣業諮詢委員會主席
陳 淑 玲 是 Y G M 貿 易 有 限 公 司 行 政 總 裁 及 長 江 製 衣 有 限
公 司 董 事 , 在 服 裝 及 紡 織 界 擁 有 多 年 豐 富 管 理 經 驗 ,
在 品 牌 發 展 及 零 售 業 務 方 面 尤 其 出 色 。 Y G M 主 要 在
大 中 華 地 區 從 事 時 裝 零 售 及 批 發 業 務 , 推 廣 及 銷 售 多
個 世 界 知 名 服 裝 品 牌 , 包 括 A Q U A S C U T U M 、 G U Y
L A R O C H E 、 A S H W O R T H 、 J . L I N D E B E R G 、 P E A K
PERFORMANCE以及自家品牌MICHEL RENE。
此 外 陳 女 士 亦 積 極 參 與 政 府 及 商 會 多 項 公 職 , 在 香 港 貿 易
發 展 局 出 任 多 項 決 策 性 要 職 包 括 理 事 、 成 衣 諮 詢 委 員 會
會 長 及 香 港 法 國 合 作 關 係 委 員 會 成 員 , 她 亦 是 香 港 品 牌
發 展 局 主 席 、 香 港 中 國 廠 商 聯 合 會 第 一 副 會 長 、 香 港 政 府
「 B U D 專 項 基 金 」 計 劃 管 理 委 員 、 中 國 人 民 政 治 協 商 會 議
天 津 市 委 員 、 廣 東 省 外 商 投 資 企 業 副 會 長 及 香 港 城 市 大 學
校董會成員。
page
nin
ety-
six
page ninety-seven
是時裝雜誌《世界都市ILOOK》的特約編輯,和《週末畫
報(M O D E R N W EEKLY)》的專欄作家。她的電影短片“AN
E X E R C I SE I N F U T I L I T Y”在 2 0 0 9 年 於 戛 納 電 影 節
的“ ON EDRE AM RUS H”中 上影 。潘小 姐20 04年 畢業 於
哈佛學院,取得哲學學士學位。並於2013年被美國福布斯
雜志稱為“矚目的女性”。
MS EDITH CHEUNG 張西美小姐金澤工藝館 紡織部總監
張 西 美 的 專 業 是 時 裝 設 計 師 , 其 作 品 深 受 愛 戴 , 以 款 式 和
內 涵 見 稱 。 她 的 職 業 生 涯 , 屢 見 突 破 , 自 紐 約 的 時 裝 中 心
開 始 , 到 香 港 電 影 服 裝 指 導 的 黃 金 十 年 , 然 後 是 工 藝 研
究,紡織藝術治療,以至專題寫作等。
張 西 美 現 任 金 澤 工 藝 館 紡 織 部 總 監 , 管 理 五 千 多 件 紡 織 品
及 服 飾 藏 品 , 並 負 責 籌 劃 節 目 活 動 。 同 時 , 是 本 地 品 牌
HULU10的紡織文化顧問。
MS JOHANNA HO 何志恩小姐JOHANNA HO 創作總監
J O H A N N A 於 1 9 9 7 年 畢 業 於 倫 敦 中 央 聖 馬 丁 藝 術 設 計 學
院 , 畢 業 後 推 出 首 個 設 計 系 列 , 其 畢 業 作 品 讓 著 名 時 裝 編
輯IAIN R. WEBB喻她為當年最具潛質的新晉設計師之一。
她的第一個成衣時裝系列於1998年在倫敦時裝週上展出,
隨後被BARNEYS NEW YORK,倫敦的BROWNS、日本
的VIA BUSSTOP買下。何志恩的成衣時裝系列深受國際
歡迎,曾在國際性的精品店及連鎖百貨公司如HARRODS,
SELFRIDGES, 伊勢丹、高島屋、西武, 連卡佛、和現於香
港的LIGER, ZTAMPZ和COCKTAIL出售。
MR GAKU MIZOGUCHI 溝口 岳EXECUTIVE OFFICER FOR NEW BUSINESS PLANNING GROUP, PARCO CO LTD
溝 口 岳 於 1 9 8 8 年 加 入 日 本 大 型 零 售 集 團 P A R C O , 他 在 時
裝、藝術及文化等領域擁有豐富的工作經驗。2008至2010
年,他出任涉谷PARCO店長,這是集團中最重要的一間分
店 。 之 後 他 開 始 負 責 店 舖 拓 展 的 策 略 性 工 作 , 現 時 帶 領 日
本以及海外的業務拓展。
成 立 於 1 9 5 3 年 , P A R C O 在 意 大 利 文 的 意 思 是 「 公 園 」 。
意思是每間PARCO就是一個公園,是人們分享與鬆弛神經
的空間,PARCO的企業使命,就是以先進的概念,創造多
姿多彩、熱情好客的消閒空間。PARCO的業務涉及四大範
疇 , 主 要 是 經 營 購 物 商 場 , 此 外 亦 包 括 經 營 特 色 店 舖 的 零
售業務、裝修及室內設計和其他業務等。
MS DEE POON 潘楚穎小姐 溢達集團中國零售部行政總裁
潘 楚 穎 小 姐 現 任 溢 達 集 團 中 國 零 售 部 首 席 執 行 官 , 兼 任 集
團 的 高 級 服 裝 品 牌 P Y E “ 派 ” 的 執 行 董 事 及 品 牌 總 監 。 溢
達 集 團 是 一 家 世 界 領 先 的 紡 織 和 成 衣 制 造 商 , 以 引 用 創 新
科 技 , 遵 循 愛 護 環 境 的 原 則 並 恪 守 最 高 道 德 標 準 而 聞 名 ,
業 務 遍 及 世 界 各 地 。 在 潘 小 姐 的 領 導 下 , P Y E “ 派 ” 早 前
登上《國際先驅論壇報》/《紐約時報》、《中國日報》、
《GQ 智族》、《南華早報》以及其他著名刊物。“派”不
僅 是 一 家 時 裝 零 售 公 司 , 堅 持 著 轉 變 襯 衫 營 銷 和 重 新 構 思
的 中 國 人 夢 想 和 目 標 , 也 是 未 來 文 化 的 投 影 。 在 加 入 溢 達
之 前 , 潘 小 姐 成 立 D Y S E M E V A S , 一 家 移 動 式 服 裝 概 念
店 , 通 過 展 示 中 國 設 計 師 的 作 品 來 講 述 當 今 中 國 的 故 事 ,
並 參 與 和 成 立 各 種 慈 善 、 創 意 和 創 業 型 的 企 業 。 潘 小 姐 曾
評判
除 了 設 計 自 家 品 牌 外 , J O H A N N A 亦 擔 任 時 裝 設 計 比 賽 評
判 、 為 企 業 設 計 制 服 、 擔 任 其 他 品 牌 設 計 總 監 、 亦 曾 擔 任
歌 手 陳 奕 迅 、 莫 文 蔚 演 唱 會 的 服 裝 設 計 總 監 ; 為 歌 手 王 菲
及 何 超 儀 設 計 造 型 及 為 其 他 歌 手 如 楊 千 嬅 設 計 舞 台 服 裝 。
國際知名創作歌手 L A N A D E L R E Y 亦是 J O H A N N A 的粉
絲 。 J O H A N N A 的 設 計 和 風 格 集 合 了 不 同 的 對 立 元 素 ︰ 搖
滾但甜美,現代而復古,前衛與古典,冷酷及浪漫。
MR KK YIP 葉家健先生DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT, D-MOP LTD
資 深 時 裝 顧 問 葉 家 健 於 8 0 年 代 自 英 國 修 讀 造 型 設 計 , 回 港
後 開 展 時 裝 事 業 。 在 互 聯 網 還 未 普 及 時 , 便 開 始 將 外 國 的
時 裝 品 牌 及 潮 流 資 訊 帶 回 香 港 。 1 9 8 8 年 , 葉 家 健 成 立 了
D-MOP,從歐洲、日本及美國搜羅前衛的時裝、休閒服以
至運動服品牌品牌,D-MOP至今已成為香港的潮流聖殿,
備受時裝人的擁戴。
葉家健受到英國嬉皮士風格啟發,在九零年代推出D-MOP
自家品牌BLUES HEROES,專攻優質皮褸、牛仔褲及T恤
系 列 , 樹 立 了 鮮 明 的 風 格 , 深 受 顧 客 歡 迎 。 葉 家 健 現 時 在
出任D-MOP創作總監,他說:「在時裝界工作超過20年,
我 仍 然 覺 得 自 己 是 新 手 , 對 一 切 仍 存 有 新 鮮 感 。 我 希 望 能
繼 續 探 索 獨 特 前 衛 的 設 計 , 以 創 意 及 品 質 為 大 前 提 , 將 最
炙 手 可 熱 的 國 際 品 牌 帶 到 香 港 , 讓 香 港 能 與 國 際 時 裝 界 同
步發展。」
translationstranslations
VÉRONIQUE LEROY國際著名時裝設計師
來自比利時的 V É R O N I Q U E L E R O Y,其時裝啟蒙及成
名 之 地 卻 是 巴 黎 這 個 時 尚 之 都 。 自 時 裝 學 院 畢 業 後 她 在
A Z Z E DI NE ALAIA身旁工作3年,學懂了如何去「看」;
在M A R T I N E S I T BON 身上,又得到了將一個完整系列放
上舞台的竅門。1991年,待己甚嚴的她終於推出了自家品
家,在時裝世界正式立下 V É R O N I Q U E L E R O Y 的軌跡。
品牌旗艦店位於巴黎市心R U E D ’ A L G E R,在世界各地高
級時尚名店如巴黎L E B O N M A R C H E、柏林Q U A R T I E R
2 0 6 、 安 特 衛 普 L O U I S 、 香 港 D - M O P 、 東 京 B E A M S 及
紐約 O P E N I N G C E R E M O N Y 等也能看到 V É R O N I Q U E
L E R O Y每季的新作。
祟尚新古典主義的 VÉRONIQUE,揉合了法式優雅與比利
時 設 計 師 如 建 築 師 般 的 理 性 氣 質 , 對 於 衣 服 的 結 構 與 布 料
的 運 用 非 常 嚴 格 , 抗 拒 不 必 要 的 裝 飾 , 雖 然 低 調 但 處 理 手
法卻如定制晚裝般執著。
嘉賓評判
page
nin
ety-
eigh
t page ninety-nine
時尚日服組
ARTIFICIAL ERROR ( is more fun)
Kwan Mei Mui, Sherman 關尾妹
設 計 學 生 在 學 習 製 作 紙 樣 時 , 總 會 犯 下 一 些 錯 誤 。 關 尾 妹
想 把 這 些 人 為 的 錯 誤 , 變 成 新 的 設 計 方 向 。 設 計 師 以 錯 的
紙 樣 造 衣 服 時 , 特 別 的 扭 曲 便 會 呈 現 ; 再 將 之 以 厚 重 和 輕
柔 的 布 料 構 成 對 比 , 這 些 錯 體 便 更 明 顯 。 當 中 最 大 挑 戰 是
適 當 地 把 它 們 縫 合 起 來 。 這 個 別 具 實 驗 性 質 的 系 列 , 效 果
是連設計師本人也意想不到的。
Fingerprint in Nature
Yim Tung Yan, El l is 嚴冬茵
Suminagashi是一種源自古代的日本技術,將墨水加在水
中 , 造 成 大 理 石 紋 。 這 些 圖 案 就 像 指 紋 一 樣 , 每 個 都 是 獨
一 無 二 的 。 嚴 冬 茵 嘗 試 將 這 種 效 果 從 水 轉 移 到 布 上 。 這 需
要 經 過 很 多 嘗 試 才 能 達 致 理 想 的 圖 案 , 而 將 之 印 在 厚 重 的
人 造 纖 維 物 料 上 亦 有 一 定 難 度 。 系 列 整 體 瀰 漫 著 濃 厚 的 日
本風情。
Journey Walker
Leung Chun Ting, Nelson 梁鎮霆
梁 鎮 霆 將 舊 電 子 遊 戲 的 元 素 , 化 作 一 個 色 彩 繽 紛 的 系 列 。
設 計 細 節 充 滿 幽 默 感 。 設 計 師 以 職 場 點 滴 來 開 玩 笑 , 例 如
將 老 闆 的 臉 繡 在 外 套 背 面 。 由 於 是 男 裝 , 設 計 師 認 為 必 須
著 重 細 節 和 物 料 , 所 以 用 了 羊 毛 和 羊 絨 等 優 質 西 裝 材 料 。
在 技 術 上 則 以 刺 繡 、 立 體 剪 裁 和 印 花 來 建 構 一 個 豐 富 的 系
列。
Simple is complicated?
Chan Chun Kit , Matthew 陳俊杰
M a t t h e w 的 系 列 探 索 結 構 主 義 和 華 富 村 建 築 特 色 的 共 通
點 。 結 構 主 義 的 畫 風 是 將 事 物 簡 化 成 為 長 方 和 正 方 形 , 而
公 共 屋 村 因 為 實 用 的 關 係 , 大 部 分 建 設 也 是 矩 形 的 。 環 環
相 扣 的 樓 梯 、 馬 賽 克 圖 案 和 牆 壁 等 , 在 這 組 衣 服 中 成 為 色
彩 繽 紛 的 拼 貼 畫 , 流 露 出 樂 觀 和 溫 暖 的 感 覺 。 衣 服 的 線 條
都是起角而不平面。
Nowhere Women : Nowhere Fashion
Wong Suet Ying, Shir ley 黃雪瑩
靈感來自披頭四樂隊的歌曲Nowhere Man,黃雪瑩的系列
瀰 漫 著 自 由 的 精 神 。 舊 街 頭 藝 術 家 所 用 的 古 老 樂 器 如 結 他
弦 線 頓 時 變 成 了 設 計 圖 案 , 並 以 繩 結 的 方 法 表 達 。 布 料 都
是 天 然 物 料 如 羊 毛 和 皮 革 , 而 大 地 的 色 調 亦 為 系 列 添 上 一
絲樸實和流浪的感覺。
every inhalat ion, every invasion.
Law Dong Yi, Doris 羅冬怡
靈感來自1952年的倫敦大霧。在朦朧之中,人們對衣著都
不 能 太 過 講 究 , 因 此 衣 服 的 線 條 都 比 較 寬 鬆 。 整 個 系 列 以
綠 和 藍 等 如 煙 霧 的 顏 色 為 主 。 雨 衣 是 英 國 多 雨 的 天 氣 下 的
必需品,但卻以半透明的PU皮革製成,別具心思。
Peace Armour
Chan Hau Kei, Kay 陳巧姬
戰 爭 往 往 由 自 卑 感 開 始 , 繼 而 產 生 嫉 妒 和 衝 突 。 盔 甲 是 提
高 自 信 的 手 段 , 而 不 是 傷 害 別 人 的 武 器 。 陳 巧 姬 所 設 計 的
和平盔甲用了反光材料,但質地卻是輕柔的。她在PU皮革
掃 上 光 油 , 用 激 光 切 割 成 不 規 則 的 圖 案 , 之 後 再 以 針 織 的
方法縫合。衣服的結構並不硬朗而變得流動跳躍。
Over Mature
Ho Kwan Shing, Kurt 何昆承
大 自 然 的 不 完 美 可 以 是 全 新 的 審 美 角 度 。 人 們 認 為 是 缺 陷
或 多 餘 的 , 其 實 也 別 具 美 態 。 何 昆 承 花 了 很 多 時 間 鑽 研 布
料 , 將 羊 毛 、 羊 絨 和 皮 革 的 表 面 變 得 較 為 粗 糙 , 加 上 薄 紗
形成了非常有趣的對比。
派對服及晚禮服組
A World of Ice and Snow
Sung Chloe 宋歌兒
本 系 列 由 一 部 有 關 冰 川 的 紀 錄 片 所 啟 發 , 以 冰 的 各 種 型 態
作 設 計 焦 點 。 衣 服 用 了 許 多 個 別 布 料 拼 合 在 一 起 , 就 像 砌
模 型 一 樣 。 層 層 的 藍 白 半 透 明 薄 紗 造 成 冰 的 紋 理 。 羊 毛 和
花呢布用於晚裝上別具心思。羊毛和梭織布以針刺(needle
punching)技術拼合,帶來漸變的效果。
Spring
Lee Mei Ting, Vivien 李美婷
因 為 以 春 天 為 主 題 , 李 美 婷 在 系 列 上 用 了 全 綠 色 , 代 表 著
新 生 命 , 另 外 又 加 上 金 色 作 點 綴 。 真 絲 色 丁 是 典 型 的 高 級
時 裝 面 料 , 優 雅 並 全 天 然 。 誇 張 的 荷 葉 邊 , 是 用 了 馬 毛 在
縫 褶 邊 上 鞏 固 成 型 。 設 計 師 下 了 少 功 夫 , 確 保 這 些 主 要 的
設計元素是突出的但又不會因過大而影響整體外觀。
Aesthetic Bamboo
Cheung Yee Lam, El iz 張依霖
這 個 系 列 帶 有 強 烈 的 視 覺 效 果 。 竹 子 是 設 計 的 主 題 , 服 裝
是 由 草 繩 製 成 , 形 狀 則 像 藤 籃 。 竹 以 往 經 常 被 用 作 長 裙 內
的 支 架 , 但 這 次 它 成 為 主 角 。 設 計 師 面 對 的 挑 戰 是 如 何 利
用這些非常簡單和自然的物料,製作出令人驚嘆的形態。
Mysterious Land
Wong Tsz Yan, Yannes 王紫茵
一 座 古 老 的 地 下 教 堂 現 在 改 建 為 地 鐵 站 , 王 紫 茵 就 以 這 樣
的 新 舊 交 融 作 為 系 列 的 主 題 。 她 將 複 雜 的 建 築 元 素 如 玻 璃
窗 戶 的 圖 案 , 以 鉤 織 的 方 法 化 為 衣 服 的 一 部 份 。 全 黑 的 一
組 晚 裝 以 絲 紗 製 成 , 合 身 的 剪 裁 和 手 工 是 設 計 師 需 要 特 別
留意的。
Gold Fish Tank
Cheung Wai Tung, Sakura 鄭煒彤
攝 影 師 蜷 川 實 花 的 過 度 雕 琢 , 不 切 實 際 的 作 品 是 這 個 系 列
的 靈 感 來 源 。 鄭 煒 彤 以 攝 影 師 最 喜 愛 的 攝 影 對 象 金 魚 作 主
題 製 作 衣 服 。 多 層 次 的 絲 紗 展 現 金 魚 游 弋 的 動 作 。 沒 有 用
上 綱 線 幫 助 , 衣 服 都 是 拼 貼 在 一 起 的 。 從 「 魚 」 的 概 念 繼
續 延 伸 , 靈 感 來 自 變 成 人 類 的 人 魚 公 主 , 系 列 以 長 褲 作 總
結。
Fluoroscopy X-Ray
Mak Wing Fung, Max 麥永豐
在 X 光 底 下 展 現 昆 蟲 形 態 是 這 個 系 列 的 設 計 主 題 。 蝴 蝶 、
蜻 蜓 和 蟬 等 圖 案 被 印 在 布 上 , 但 也 以 摺 紙 般 的 立 體 形 式 出
現 , 和 服 的 影 子 顯 而 易 見 。 麥 永 豐 利 用 非 一 般 的 晚 裝 面
料 , 如 用 來 製 作 檔 風 衣 的 人 造 纖 維 , 它 可 雙 面 打 印 , 並 使
衣 服 的 形 態 更 為 突 出 。 設 計 師 的 目 標 是 將 這 些 特 別 的 配 件
成為衣服的一部份而不是額外的組件。
Sakamoto Chiyo
Lee Ka Kwan, Louis 李嘉堃
設 計 靈 感 來 自 電 影 「 藝 伎 回 憶 錄 」 中 重 要 的 一 幕 。 衣 服 瀰
漫 著 少 女 味 道 , 非 常 浪 漫 並 帶 點 未 完 成 的 感 覺 。 潛 水 衣
料 、 網 布 及 P V C 等 街 頭 時 尚 布 料 , 不 算 矜 貴 但 所 需 要 的
手 工 卻 絕 對 比 得 上 高 級 時 裝 。 李 嘉堃花 了 很 多 時 間 自 己 織
布,他又希望以系列帶來一個訊息,傳統是應該珍惜的。
Onion Life
Choi Wing Nam, Tracy 蔡詠楠
這 是 一 個 關 於 女 孩 成 長 的 系 列 , 真 正 的 自 我 給 埋 在 層 層 的
回 憶 之 中 。 在 絲 紗 和 人 造 纖 維 面 料 上 釘 珠 組 成 各 種 複 雜 的
圖 案 , 鮮 豔 的 顏 色 代 表 年 輕 人 的 樂 觀 態 度 。 立 體 剪 裁 給 予
衣 服 明 確 的 線 條 。 這 是 一 個 女 性 化 的 系 列 , 同 時 也 帶 來 年
輕和前衛的感覺。
Elizabeth Lin 連寶真
這 是 E l i z a b e t h 繼 去 年 贏 得 Y D C 全 場 總 冠 軍 得 獎 作 品 後 的 延
伸 。 以 「 時 光 機 」 為 題 , 這 個 系 列 說 的 是 童 真 和 設 計 師 自 己
在 香 港 生 活 時 的 童 年 回 憶 。 衣 服 印 上 了 E l i z a b e t h 自 己 和 小 侄
女手繪的圖案。整體的線條輪廓是抽象的,比例上則有點接近
童裝。自從贏得YDC後,El izabeth便與好友開展了自家品牌
Elizabeth & Jacquel ine。品牌作風前衛鮮明,有大量超現實
的印花。品牌已進駐東京和倫敦的時裝店。
Eva Cheng 鄭懿華
Eva的設計概念源於一個想法,很多人都喜歡購買衣服,但最
終很多衣服都被埋沒在衣櫃深處。然而我們最喜愛的衣服往往
都是因為它包含著美好的回憶。Eva在倫敦時裝學院(LCF)
的畢業作品主題是「持續發展」環保概念,今次系列是該作品
的延伸。Eva希望在作品中灌輸珍惜衣服的價值觀,並開發一
個 整 理 衣 櫃 的 系 統 , 讓 人 可 以 從 衣 服 的 細 節 中 找 到 珍 貴 的 回
憶。設計特色是幾何圖案、立體剪裁和可拆開的配件。
E v a 是 2 0 11 年 Y D C 的 全 場 總 冠 軍,她 獲 獎 後 到 巴 黎 R u e du
Mail品牌,跟隨大師Martine Sitbon學習。之後她遠赴LCF修
讀研究生課程。
Wal Kong 江德華
系列以蝶戀花為題,像一個愛情故事,用上大量的印花和羽毛
帶來浪漫的感覺。Wal親自繪畫各種印花圖案,帶有東西交融
的味道。藍白色的組合靈感來自中國的青花瓷,而裸色與橙紅
的對比則屬於西方。這是一個混合日服與晚裝的系列,Wal在
設計中加入幾何元素和顏色方塊,增添現代感。
Wal是2007年YDC的全場總冠軍。
Mim Mak 麥鑽池
香港擁擠的環境令Mim想出這組作品,她稱之為「舒適區域」。
在一個擁擠的空間如地鐵,簡單的動作如伸手到口袋拿東西都
少不免會碰撞別人。Mim希望解決這個問題,因此重新安排口
袋的位置和方向。她從實用的角度出發,以立體剪裁的方式製
作出這個線條明朗的系列。
M i m 為 2 0 1 2 年 Y D C 的 全 場 總 冠 軍 , 獎 品 之 一 是 前 往 東 京 的
AtsuroTayama品牌實習。日本人的認真與敬業精神讓她留下
深刻印象,這次的經驗對於Mim發展自家品牌“HANG”大有
幫助。
translationstranslations
入 圍 參 賽 者 歷 屆 得 獎 者
page
one
-hun
dred
page one-hundred-and-one
Trophy & Judges’ MementoCreated by Danny Lee
Sculptor
MC OutfitDesigned by Mountain Yam
Prize Sponsors
Hair-Styling
Make-up Styling
Media Partners
credits credits
Visual Design & Production TeamCoordinated by As Collective, the Team created for this booklet a central theme that is further elaborated by all the animations seen during the show and at a display at hall during World Boutique, Hong Kong 2014 (13/1 - 16/1).
Members of the Team specialize in art direction, graphic, styling, photography, and motions creations. By contributing their
strengths in YDC 2014, they offer their support to Hong Kong young fashion talents and at the same time prove their fashion ‘extends beyond much more than “just clothes” but has to do with ideas, the way we live and what is happening’. (Online version of the booklet and motions will also be seen on www.fashionally.com after 20/1/ 2014).
Stage Design and Show ProductionDigital Media Partner
Creative DirectionAzia Chau, Benny Woo,
Siuming Leung
Art DirectionKim Lee
Graphic Design Beryl Kwan
Installation and Set DesignAzia Chau
Set Design assistantJune Law, Wong Ka Sing
PhotographyKen Ngan
(Flesh & Torso)
Photography assistantChristo Chan, Cliff Chik
Digital ImagingBenny Woo
Motion and Multimedia Benny Woo, Kim Lee
Project coordinator Wang yuzhen
page
one
-hun
dred
-and
-tw
opage one-hundred-and-three